WO2024207273A1 - Cosmetic emulsion with reduced white foaming - Google Patents
Cosmetic emulsion with reduced white foaming Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2024207273A1 WO2024207273A1 PCT/CN2023/086390 CN2023086390W WO2024207273A1 WO 2024207273 A1 WO2024207273 A1 WO 2024207273A1 CN 2023086390 W CN2023086390 W CN 2023086390W WO 2024207273 A1 WO2024207273 A1 WO 2024207273A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- weight
- emulsion
- triglyceride
- sucrose
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- Prior art date
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- 239000008271 cosmetic emulsion Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 11
- 238000005187 foaming Methods 0.000 title claims description 15
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 133
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- -1 sucrose ester Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 9
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- 150000001335 aliphatic alkanes Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 38
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- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 26
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 24
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 24
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 24
- UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N triformin Chemical compound O=COCC(OC=O)COC=O UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- 150000002148 esters Chemical group 0.000 claims description 21
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 claims description 20
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- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- FOLJTMYCYXSPFQ-CJKAUBRRSA-N [(2r,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-2-(octadecanoyloxymethyl)oxolan-2-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxan-2-yl]methyl octadecanoate Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O[C@@H]1O[C@@]1(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 FOLJTMYCYXSPFQ-CJKAUBRRSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N [(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-2-[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxolan-2-yl]methyl octadecanoate Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1)O)[C@]1(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
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- CVSVTCORWBXHQV-UHFFFAOYSA-N creatine Chemical compound NC(=[NH2+])N(C)CC([O-])=O CVSVTCORWBXHQV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
Definitions
- the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic emulsion which shows reduced levels of white appearance after application.
- Cosmetic products generally not only serve to look beautiful and attractive, but their effects make a decisive contribution to increased self-esteem and people's wellbeing. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleaning and care of human skin.
- anti-foaming agents are included in body lotions and creams which reduce the time until the air bubbles and with it the white foam disappears. If no anti foaming agents are used, the white foam will need longer time to disappear, and the spreading/massage upon application to the skin will increase the foaming. Thus, for consumers, the skin care product will become whiter and whiter during applying, although finally it will disappear. As a result, the consumer will have the impression that the product is difficult to spread and absorb.
- the anti-foaming agents can help the air bubbles break and disappear faster, so the product seems to be easier spread and faster absorbed on skin.
- silicone oils are used as anti-foaming agent.
- dimethicone has low surface tension and is not easy to dissolve into water or other oil ingredients. As result it can easily move to the surface of the air bubbles and spread on the bubble surface. This process renders the surface of the bubble to become uneven so that the bubbles start to combine and break faster.
- Typical silicone oil based anti-foaming compositions are described in US5531929 A.
- EP 0339958 A3 describes encapsulated silicone anti-foaming compositions.
- Acrylic polymers are polymers formed by homo or copolymerization with acrylic acid and ester thereof. Due to the not known degradability of the acrylic polymers in the environment it is in the interest of all if formulations do not require the presence of acrylic polymers anymore. Therefore, a general need exists for alternative formulations which do not require the presence of these polymers.
- Emulsions may be formulated in many ways containing active ingredients.
- some formulations are intended to be applied on wet skin and are subsequently washed from the skin with water.
- Typical formulations in this field of technology are shower gels and shampoos. These particularly contain foaming surfactants and, in some cases, solid particles such as scrubs allowing a thorough removal of dirt or dead skin cells.
- Scrub particles usually have size of mean particle size D 50 from 0.2 to 1.5 mm 2 . Sizes of mean maximum particle diameter can be determined using dynamic light scattering. The above-described foaming issue is not an issue for those formulations, as those formulations do not say on the skin to absorb.
- the present invention is directed to address this issue without the need to use the above-described materials, which should be avoided on modern skin care formulations.
- a first object of the present invention is a leave-on cosmetic emulsion comprising based on the total weight of the emulsion
- the emulsion is free from acrylic polymers.
- the emulsions according to the invention allow the appearance of foaming after application to be reduced.
- a further object of the invention is the use of at least one sucrose ester in cosmetic emulsions to reduce the foaming of the emulsion upon application to the human skin.
- a particular object of the invention is the use of at least one sucrose ester in a leave-on cosmetic emulsion comprising based on the total weight of the emulsion
- the emulsion is free from acrylic polymers, to reduce the foaming of the emulsion upon application to the human skin.
- a leave-on emulsion is a product which is not removed with water from the skin after application.
- a leave-on emulsion remains on the skin to fully absorb.
- normal conditions refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
- the term “free from” means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.01%by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as “free from” according to the invention.
- skin refers solely to the human skin.
- Silicone compounds are understood as substances comprising a dimethylsiloxane unit (SiO (CH 3 ) 2 ) in their chemical structure.
- alkanes also includes polyalkane, in particular hydrogenated polyisobuten.
- hydrogenated polyisobuten is preferably not contained in the emulsion of the invention.
- Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name “emulsifying agent” .
- Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name “surfactant” .
- the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms. In particular it is preferred if the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 14 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular it is preferred if the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Most preferred it is if the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 18 carbon atoms.
- sucrose ester is chosen from sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate. In one aspect of the invention, it is preferred if sucrose polystearate is contained in the emulsion. In one aspect of the invention, it is preferred if sucrose distearate is contained in the emulsion. In one aspect of the invention, it is preferred if sucrose stearate is contained in the emulsion.
- the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester is chosen from sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the emulsion comprises sucrose polystearate in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the emulsion comprises sucrose distearate in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the emulsion comprises sucrose stearate in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the emulsion comprises high level of sucrose esters.
- the high levels of sucrose ester is particular in the range from 2.5 to 8%by weight, more preferably from 3.5 to 7%by weight and most preferably 4.5 to 6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 16 to 18 carbon atoms. More preferred are sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate. It is most preferred if sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate are contained in this embodiment.
- the emulsion comprises sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate in a total quantity ranging from 2.5 to 8%by weight, more preferably from 3.5 to 7%by weight and most preferably 4.5 to 6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the compositions according to this embodiment show a surprising significant reduction of the appearing foam while applying the product to human skin.
- the total amount of appearing foam can be further reduced by adding at least one anionic emulsifier to the emulsion. In this way the amount of appearing foam and the reduction of foam while spreading could be optimized.
- the emulsion comprises preferably at least one anionic emulsifier.
- Preferred emulsions are characterized in that sodium stearoyl glutamate and/or sodium cetearyl sulfate are contained as anionic emulsifier.
- sodium stearoyl glutamate is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of sodium stearoyl glutamate is in the range from 0.05 to 1.2%by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.8%by weight and most preferably 0.15 to 0.4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- sodium cetearyl sulfate is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of sodium cetearyl sulfate is in the range from 0.05 to 1.2%by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.8%by weight and most preferably 0.15 to 0.4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.
- the formulation according to the invention is capable of stabilizing high amounts of salicylic acid.
- the emulsion comprises salicylic acid.
- Salicylic acid is an active ingredient contained in formulations used for human skin having acne.
- the total quantity of salicylic acid is in the range from 0.1 to 4.2%by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 2.5%by weight, even more preferably 0.4 to 2.2%by weight and most preferably 0.8 to 1.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the emulsion according to the invention is intended to be used as leave on formulation it is sensible if the formulation does not contain lager particles which would remain on the skin after the formulation is absorbed.
- the emulsion according to the invention comprises particles having a mean particle size D 50 of 0.2 to 1.5 mm in quantities of less than 0.1%by weight or 0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. Accordingly, it is preferred if no such particles are contained.
- the aforementioned mean particle sizes can be determined for example by employing dynamic light scattering (DLS) .
- the emulsion of the invention comprises preferably a polymeric system suitable to thicken the emulsion, whereby the polymeric system is different from the excluded ones.
- Suitable are in particular polysaccharide type polymeric thickeners.
- Polysaccharide type polymeric thickeners are those rheology modifiers, which are based on a polysaccharide structure, or which are based on such a structure.
- one or more polysaccharide type polymeric thickeners are contained in the emulsion in a total quantity ranging from 0.2 to 1.8%by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 1.5%by weight and most preferably 0.5 to 1.4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- xanthan gum is contained in the emulsion of the invention.
- the total quantity of the xanthan gum is in the range from 0.1 to 1.5%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 1.0%by weight and most preferably 0.3 to 0.7%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- One preferred rheology modifier which can be contained in the emulsion of the invention, is sclerotium gum.
- sclerotium gum is contained in the emulsion it is preferred if the total quantity of the sclerotium gum is in the range from 0.05 to 0.5%by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.4%by weight and most preferably 0.15 to 0.3%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- One preferred rheology modifier which can be contained in the emulsion of the invention, is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
- hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is contained in the emulsion it is preferred if the total quantity of the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is in the range from 0.1 to 1.5%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 1.0%by weight and most preferably 0.3 to 0.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate are preferred, whereby it is further preferred if the ratio by weight between xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is in the range from 10: 1 to 1: 10, more preferably 2: 1 to 1: 8 and most preferably from 1: 1 to 1: 6.
- the emulsion comprises preferably at least one fatty acid triglyceride according to the formula (I)
- R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently stand for a saturated and/or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
- the total quantity of the fatty acid triglyceride according to the invention is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 2.1 to 6%by weight and most preferably from 3.0 to 5.0%by weight or from 3.2 to 5.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the fatty acid triglyceride is selected from Cocos Nucifera Oil (Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil) ) , Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Astrocaryum sp Triglycerides) , C10-18 Triglycerides, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglyceride, C12-18 Acid Triglyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, C8-12 Acid Triglyceride, Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capric/Lauric/Myristic/Oleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Linoleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride, Castoryl Maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (Ricinoleyl Monomaleate Triglyceride) ) , Hydrogenated C12-18 Triglycerides,
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride In particular preferred is Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride.
- the total quantity of the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 2.1 to 6%by weight and most preferably from 3.2 to 5.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the fatty acid triglyceride can also be part of natural oils.
- Preferred natural oils which can be contained are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, glycine soja oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, and shea butter.
- the emulsion comprises less than 0.1%or 0%by weight of polymers formed by homo-or copolymerization with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
- the oil phase of the emulsion sums up to a total quantity in the range from 3.0 to 20.0%by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 15%by weight and most preferably from 6.0 to 12.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- emulsifier and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. Nevertheless, fatty alcohols count as part of the oil phase.
- Further compounds which can be contained in the oil phase are for example chosen from further branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols since they are obtainable according to the Guerbet reaction.
- Preferred alcohol oils are hexyldecanol ( G 16, T 16) , octyldodecanol ( G, 20) and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol.
- oils preferred according to the invention are chosen from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10-alkanols, in particular, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl/di-n-butyl/dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
- oils preferred according to the invention are chosen from the addition products of from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether ( APM) .
- mono-or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether ( APM) .
- oils of this group are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate,
- Further oils are preferbly chosen from the C8-C22-fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic C2-C7-hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular, the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid.
- esters based on linear C14/15-alkanols, e.g., C12-C15-alkyl lactate, and on C12/13-alkanols branched in the 2 position are available under the trade name from Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH &Co., Hamburg, in particular the commercial products ESI, EMI and ETI.
- oils which can preferably be used are chosen from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C12-C22-fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monohydric linear, branched or cyclic C2-C18-alkanols or with polyhydric linear or branched C2-C6-alkanols.
- Particular preferred further oils are chosen from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10-alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, addition products of from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C3-22-alkanols, C8-C22-fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic C2-C7-hydroxycarboxylic acids, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, the esters of dimers of unsaturated C12-C22-fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monohydric linear, branche
- the emulsion comprises at least one fatty alcohol comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
- fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the corresponding mixture, cetearyl alcohol are most preferred.
- the total quantity of those fatty alcohols is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0%by weight and most preferably 1.3 to 3.0 %%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the emulsion according to the invention further preferably comprises at least one fatty acid comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
- at least one fatty acid comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms it is preferred if the total quantity of those fatty acids is in the range from 0.2 to 5.0%by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0%by weight and most preferably 0.5 to 2.25 by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the emulsion according to the invention comprises further short chain polyols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
- Preferred polyols of that type are butylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2 hexanediol, 1, 2 heptanediol, 1, 2 propanediol, methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol.
- those preferred polyols are contained in quantities ranging from 0.5 to 10%by weight, more preferably 1 to 9%by weight and most preferably from 1.5 to 8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- the emulsion comprises phenoxyethanol and/or ethylhexylglycerin as a preservative.
- phenoxyethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- ethylhexylglycerin is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 1.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier is limited to a maximum of 0.5 %by weight, more preferably limited to a maximum of 0.3%and most preferably limited to a maximum of 0.2%by weight, or if no nonionic emulsifier is contained at all, whereby all values are calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- the emulsion is free from polymers polymerized from a mixture containing vinylpyrrolidone. Those polymers are no more desired to use as the biodegradability is questionable. Thus, it is preferred if the emulsion does not comprise a polymer polymerized from a mixture containing vinylpyrrolidone. Thus, the quantity of polymers polymerized from a mixture containing vinylpyrrolidone is preferably 0%by weight calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- active ingredients are contained. These are advantageously selected from the group containing sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, carnitine, trehalose and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
- the active ingredients mentioned in the group are advantageously used in total proportions of up to 5%by weight, preferably less than 4%by weight or less than 3%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- water is contained in the emulsion in a total quantity ranging from 70.0%by weight to 95%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- Ex. 1 to Ex. 6 are according to the invention.
- Com. 1 to 3 are reference examples.
- the whitening/anti-foaming is evaluated by an expert panel which is insisted of 15 experts. These experts are selected based on the global standard Designation E1490 –11. Whitening is evaluated separately on the upper side of the forearm. Measures the degree to which the product remains as an occlusive film (usually white) on the forearm.
- the panel leader applies 100 ⁇ L product in a 10 cm straight line to the upper side of the forearm. Mark both ends of the 10cm line with a pen. Spread the product using the fore-and middle finger with sharp strokes back and forth at 120 bpm in a straight line on the arm. The evaluation takes place at 4 and 20 strokes. Then it is evaluated how much skin is visible, respectively how much white foam is visible. The score is each time from 0 for no whitening/foaming to 100 full whitening/foaming (meaning no skin visible) .
- Com. 3 shows a reference example showing a conventional silicone containing formulation. It can be seen that upon application the white foam reduces significantly comparing the foaming after 4 and 20 stokes. A comparable fast reduction is observed for the examples according to the invention (Ex. 6 vs. Com. 3) . By adding an anionic emulsifier, the total amount of appearing foam can further be reduced (Ex. 1 to Ex. 5) .
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Abstract
A leave-on cosmetic emulsion comprises based on the total weight of the emulsion a) at least one sucrose ester, b) less than 0.1 or 0% of silicone oils and silicone compounds, and c) less than 0.1 or 0% of alkanes and mineral oils, characterized in that the emulsion is free from acrylic polymers. The emulsion shows a significant reduction of the appearing foam while applying it to human skin.
Description
The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic emulsion which shows reduced levels of white appearance after application.
Cosmetic products generally not only serve to look beautiful and attractive, but their effects make a decisive contribution to increased self-esteem and people's wellbeing. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for the daily cleaning and care of human skin.
When applying cosmetic products such as body lotions and creams which contain an oil and an aqueous phase it is often observed that small air bubbles of the composition are formed on the skin. These air bubbles can be described as foam which has a white appearance. Typically, this foam disappears a couple of minutes after application to the skin.
In most cases anti-foaming agents are included in body lotions and creams which reduce the time until the air bubbles and with it the white foam disappears. If no anti foaming agents are used, the white foam will need longer time to disappear, and the spreading/massage upon application to the skin will increase the foaming. Thus, for consumers, the skin care product will become whiter and whiter during applying, although finally it will disappear. As a result, the consumer will have the impression that the product is difficult to spread and absorb. The anti-foaming agents can help the air bubbles break and disappear faster, so the product seems to be easier spread and faster absorbed on skin.
Most often silicone oils are used as anti-foaming agent. E.g. dimethicone has low surface tension and is not easy to dissolve into water or other oil ingredients. As result it can easily move to the surface of the air bubbles and spread on the bubble surface. This process renders the surface of the bubble to become uneven so that the bubbles start to combine and break faster.
Typical silicone oil based anti-foaming compositions are described in US5531929 A. EP 0339958 A3 describes encapsulated silicone anti-foaming compositions.
However, the use of silicone oils has been controversially discussed for various reasons in recent years. Thus, consumers generally prefer products which do not require the presence of silicone oils. Nevertheless, the appearance of foam upon applications shall remain at a
limited level. That means, upon application, the amount of foam and the time upon disappearance of the white foam shall be reduced.
Further critical ingredients not appreciated by consumers anymore are acrylic polymers. Acrylic polymers are polymers formed by homo or copolymerization with acrylic acid and ester thereof. Due to the not known degradability of the acrylic polymers in the environment it is in the interest of all if formulations do not require the presence of acrylic polymers anymore. Therefore, a general need exists for alternative formulations which do not require the presence of these polymers.
Further it is nowadays appreciated by the consumers if pure alkane compounds such as minerals oils or lower alkanes, e.g., tridecane, are not contained in cosmetic emulsions anymore. In this way no or less fossil sourced ingredients are required to be present in the emulsion reducing the environmental impact of the emulsions to be sold to consumers.
Emulsions may be formulated in many ways containing active ingredients. On the one hand, some formulations are intended to be applied on wet skin and are subsequently washed from the skin with water. Typical formulations in this field of technology are shower gels and shampoos. These particularly contain foaming surfactants and, in some cases, solid particles such as scrubs allowing a thorough removal of dirt or dead skin cells. Scrub particles usually have size of mean particle size D50 from 0.2 to 1.5 mm2. Sizes of mean maximum particle diameter can be determined using dynamic light scattering. The above-described foaming issue is not an issue for those formulations, as those formulations do not say on the skin to absorb.
On the other hand, there are formulations which are intended to be used on non-wetted skin and are intended to be absorbed on the skin. As those leave-on emulsions are spread on dry skin and stay for a prolonged amount of time on the skin, the above-described foaming issue is particularly present. In detail, it is important that the initial foaming quickly disappears upon application of the leave on product and/or the appearance of foam is generally reduced.
Further in one aspect it is also desirable to provide leave on formulations, which are capable to maintain phase separation stability for a prolonged amount of time, for the case that salicylic acid is contained in high quantities in the formulation. Here, also the restriction in the usable and acceptable material described above is limiting the stability of formulations.
The present invention is directed to address this issue without the need to use the above-described materials, which should be avoided on modern skin care formulations.
Summary of the invention
A first object of the present invention is a leave-on cosmetic emulsion comprising based on the total weight of the emulsion
a. At least one sucrose ester,
b. Less than 0.1 or 0%of silicone oils and silicone compounds, and
c. Less than 0.1 or 0%of alkanes and mineral oils
characterized in that the emulsion is free from acrylic polymers.
It was surprisingly noticed that the emulsions according to the invention allow the appearance of foaming after application to be reduced.
A further object of the invention is the use of at least one sucrose ester in cosmetic emulsions to reduce the foaming of the emulsion upon application to the human skin.
A particular object of the invention is the use of at least one sucrose ester in a leave-on cosmetic emulsion comprising based on the total weight of the emulsion
a. Less than 0.1 or 0%of silicone oils and silicone compounds, and
b. Less than 0.1 or 0%of alkanes and mineral oils
characterized in that the emulsion is free from acrylic polymers, to reduce the foaming of the emulsion upon application to the human skin.
By definition, a leave-on emulsion is a product which is not removed with water from the skin after application. A leave-on emulsion remains on the skin to fully absorb.
All the weight percentages (%by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic emulsion. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.
Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions” . The term "normal conditions" refers to 20℃, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
In the following description the terms “according to the invention” , “preferred according to the invention” and so on are always directed to the use according to the invention, to the composition and to the method according to the invention.
For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.01%by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as "free from" according to the invention.
The term “skin” refers solely to the human skin.
Silicone compounds are understood as substances comprising a dimethylsiloxane unit (SiO (CH3) 2) in their chemical structure.
The term “alkanes” also includes polyalkane, in particular hydrogenated polyisobuten. Thus, hydrogenated polyisobuten is preferably not contained in the emulsion of the invention.
Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent" . Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant" .
According to the invention it is preferred if the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms. In particular it is preferred if the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 14 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular it is preferred if the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Most preferred it is if the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 18 carbon atoms.
In one aspect of the invention, it is preferred if the sucrose ester is chosen from sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate. In one aspect of the invention, it is preferred if sucrose polystearate is contained in the emulsion. In one aspect of the invention, it is preferred if sucrose distearate is contained in the emulsion. In one aspect of the invention, it is preferred if sucrose stearate is contained in the emulsion.
According to the invention it is preferred if the total quantity of the sucrose ester is in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
It is further preferred if the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester, which is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
It is further preferred if the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester, which is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 14 to 20 carbon atoms, in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
It is further preferred if the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester, which is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 16 to 18 carbon atoms, in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
It is further preferred if the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester, which is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 18 carbon atoms, in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
It is further preferred if the emulsion comprises a sucrose ester is chosen from sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
It is further preferred if the emulsion comprises sucrose polystearate in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by
weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
It is further preferred if the emulsion comprises sucrose distearate in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
It is further preferred if the emulsion comprises sucrose stearate in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
In a particular preferred embodiment, it is preferred if the emulsion comprises high level of sucrose esters. The high levels of sucrose ester is particular in the range from 2.5 to 8%by weight, more preferably from 3.5 to 7%by weight and most preferably 4.5 to 6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. In this embodiment it is particular preferred if the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 16 to 18 carbon atoms. More preferred are sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate. It is most preferred if sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate are contained in this embodiment. Thus, it is preferred if the emulsion comprises sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate in a total quantity ranging from 2.5 to 8%by weight, more preferably from 3.5 to 7%by weight and most preferably 4.5 to 6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. The compositions according to this embodiment show a surprising significant reduction of the appearing foam while applying the product to human skin.
It was also surprisingly found that the total amount of appearing foam can be further reduced by adding at least one anionic emulsifier to the emulsion. In this way the amount of appearing foam and the reduction of foam while spreading could be optimized.
According to the invention the emulsion comprises preferably at least one anionic emulsifier. Preferred emulsions are characterized in that sodium stearoyl glutamate and/or sodium cetearyl sulfate are contained as anionic emulsifier.
For the case that sodium stearoyl glutamate is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of sodium stearoyl glutamate is in the range from 0.05 to 1.2%by weight, more preferably 0.1
to 0.8%by weight and most preferably 0.15 to 0.4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
For the case that sodium cetearyl sulfate is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of sodium cetearyl sulfate is in the range from 0.05 to 1.2%by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.8%by weight and most preferably 0.15 to 0.4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
According to the invention it is preferred if the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.
Further it was surprisingly noticed that the formulation according to the invention is capable of stabilizing high amounts of salicylic acid. Thus, it is preferred if the emulsion comprises salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is an active ingredient contained in formulations used for human skin having acne. For the case that salicylic acid is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of salicylic acid is in the range from 0.1 to 4.2%by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 2.5%by weight, even more preferably 0.4 to 2.2%by weight and most preferably 0.8 to 1.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
Further, it is additionally possible to provide formulations with high quantities of lactic acid. Thus, it is preferred if the emulsion comprises lactic acid. Lactic acid is also an active ingredient contained in formulations used for human skin having acne. For the case that lactic acid is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of lactic acid is in the range from 0.1 to 4.2%by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5%by weight, even more preferably 1.2 to 2.9%by weight and most preferably 1.8 to 2.6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
As the emulsion according to the invention is intended to be used as leave on formulation it is sensible if the formulation does not contain lager particles which would remain on the skin after the formulation is absorbed. Thus, it is preferred if the emulsion according to the invention comprises particles having a mean particle size D50 of 0.2 to 1.5 mm in quantities of less than 0.1%by weight or 0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. Accordingly, it is preferred if no such particles are contained. The aforementioned mean particle sizes can be determined for example by employing dynamic light scattering (DLS) .
The emulsion of the invention comprises preferably a polymeric system suitable to thicken the emulsion, whereby the polymeric system is different from the excluded ones. Suitable are in particular polysaccharide type polymeric thickeners. Polysaccharide type polymeric
thickeners are those rheology modifiers, which are based on a polysaccharide structure, or which are based on such a structure.
According to the invention it is preferred if one or more polysaccharide type polymeric thickeners are contained in the emulsion in a total quantity ranging from 0.2 to 1.8%by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 1.5%by weight and most preferably 0.5 to 1.4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
Preferred polysaccharides type polymeric thickener are xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, ceratonia siliqua gum, succinoglycan and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
One preferred rheology modifier, which can be contained in the emulsion of the invention, is xanthan gum. For the case that xanthan gum is contained in the emulsion it is preferred if the total quantity of the xanthan gum is in the range from 0.1 to 1.5%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 1.0%by weight and most preferably 0.3 to 0.7%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
One preferred rheology modifier, which can be contained in the emulsion of the invention, is sclerotium gum. For the case that sclerotium gum is contained in the emulsion it is preferred if the total quantity of the sclerotium gum is in the range from 0.05 to 0.5%by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.4%by weight and most preferably 0.15 to 0.3%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
One preferred rheology modifier, which can be contained in the emulsion of the invention, is hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. For the case that hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is contained in the emulsion it is preferred if the total quantity of the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is in the range from 0.1 to 1.5%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 1.0%by weight and most preferably 0.3 to 0.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
Most preferred is the combination of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, whereby it is further preferred if the ratio by weight between xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is in the range from 10: 1 to 1: 10, more preferably 2: 1 to 1: 8 and most preferably from 1: 1 to 1: 6.
According to the invention the emulsion comprises preferably at least one fatty acid triglyceride according to the formula (I)
wherein R1, R2 and R3 independently stand for a saturated and/or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
According to the invention, it is preferred if the total quantity of the fatty acid triglyceride according to the invention is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 2.1 to 6%by weight and most preferably from 3.0 to 5.0%by weight or from 3.2 to 5.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
It is preferred if the fatty acid triglyceride is selected from Cocos Nucifera Oil (Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil) ) , Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Astrocaryum sp Triglycerides) , C10-18 Triglycerides, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglyceride, C12-18 Acid Triglyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, C8-12 Acid Triglyceride, Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capric/Lauric/Myristic/Oleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Linoleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride, Castoryl Maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (Ricinoleyl Monomaleate Triglyceride) ) , Hydrogenated C12-18 Triglycerides, Lauric/palmitic/oleic Triglyceride, Mustelic/palmitic Triglyceride, Oleic/linoleic Triglyceride, Oleic/Palmitic/Lauric/Myristic/Linoleic Triglyceride, Ricinoleic/caproic/caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride and/or Jojoba Oil/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Esters.
In particular preferred is Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. Thus, it is particular preferred if the total quantity of the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 2.1 to 6%by weight and most preferably from 3.2 to 5.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
The fatty acid triglyceride can also be part of natural oils. Preferred natural oils, which can be contained are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, glycine soja oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, and shea butter.
According to the invention it is further preferred if the emulsion comprises less than 0.1%or 0%by weight of polymers formed by homo-or copolymerization with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
Further, it is preferred if the oil phase of the emulsion sums up to a total quantity in the range from 3.0 to 20.0%by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 15%by weight and most preferably from 6.0 to 12.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. By definition emulsifier and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. Nevertheless, fatty alcohols count as part of the oil phase.
Further compounds which can be contained in the oil phase are for example chosen from further branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols since they are obtainable according to the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are hexyldecanol (G 16, T 16) , octyldodecanol (G, 20) and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol.
Further oils preferred according to the invention are chosen from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10-alkanols, in particular, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl/di-n-butyl/dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
Further oils preferred according to the invention are chosen from the addition products of from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (APM) .
Further oils are chosen from the esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These include hexyldecyl stearate (G 16 S) , hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (868) . Further preferred oils of this group are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate,
n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate.
Further oils, which can be contained in the emulsion according to the invention are chosen from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C3-2 2-alkanols, such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-14 butyl ether (UconAP) , PPG-9 butyl ether (B25) , PPG-10 butanediol (57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (E) .
Further oils are preferbly chosen from the C8-C22-fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic C2-C7-hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular, the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C14/15-alkanols, e.g., C12-C15-alkyl lactate, and on C12/13-alkanols branched in the 2 position are available under the trade namefrom Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH &Co., Hamburg, in particular the commercial productsESI, EMI and ETI.
Further oils which can preferably be used are chosen from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, e.g., glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (CC) or the esters of DE 197 56 454 A1.
Further oils which can preferably be used are chosen from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C12-C22-fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monohydric linear, branched or cyclic C2-C18-alkanols or with polyhydric linear or branched C2-C6-alkanols.
Particular preferred further oils are chosen from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10-alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, addition products of from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units onto mono-or polyhydric C3-22-alkanols, C8-C22-fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic C2-C7-hydroxycarboxylic acids, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, the esters of dimers of unsaturated C12-C22-fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monohydric linear, branched or cyclic C2-C18-alkanols or with polyhydric linear or branched C2-C6-alkanols, and mixtures of the above-mentioned substances.
Further, it is preferred if the emulsion comprises at least one fatty alcohol comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Among those fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the corresponding mixture, cetearyl alcohol are most preferred.
For the case at least one fatty alcohol comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those fatty alcohols is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.0%by weight and most preferably 1.3 to 3.0 %%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
The emulsion according to the invention further preferably comprises at least one fatty acid comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms. For the case that one or more fatty acid comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those fatty acids is in the range from 0.2 to 5.0%by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0%by weight and most preferably 0.5 to 2.25 by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
Further it is preferred if the emulsion according to the invention comprises further short chain polyols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferred polyols of that type are butylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2 hexanediol, 1, 2 heptanediol, 1, 2 propanediol, methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol.
It is preferred if those preferred polyols are contained in quantities ranging from 0.5 to 10%by weight, more preferably 1 to 9%by weight and most preferably from 1.5 to 8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Further it is preferred if the emulsion comprises phenoxyethanol and/or ethylhexylglycerin as a preservative.
For the case that phenoxyethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
For the case that ethylhexylglycerin is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 1.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
In one embodiment of the invention, it is preferred if at least one nonionic emulsifier is contained in the emulsion. However, it should be noted that it is preferred if the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier is limited to a maximum of 0.5 %by weight, more preferably limited to a maximum of 0.3%and most preferably limited to a maximum of 0.2%by weight, or if no nonionic emulsifier is contained at all, whereby all values are calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Further it is preferred if the emulsion is free from polymers polymerized from a mixture containing vinylpyrrolidone. Those polymers are no more desired to use as the biodegradability is questionable. Thus, it is preferred if the emulsion does not comprise a polymer polymerized from a mixture containing vinylpyrrolidone. Thus, the quantity of polymers polymerized from a mixture containing vinylpyrrolidone is preferably 0%by weight calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
It is also advantageous according to the invention if further active ingredients are contained. These are advantageously selected from the group containing sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, carnitine, trehalose and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. The active ingredients mentioned in the group are advantageously used in total proportions of up to 5%by weight, preferably less than 4%by weight or less than 3%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Further it is preferred if water is contained in the emulsion in a total quantity ranging from 70.0%by weight to 95%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
The following examples should illustrate the compositions of this invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Ex. 1 to Ex. 6 are according to the invention. Com. 1 to 3 are reference examples.
All formulations above were prepared and the anti-foaming properties were analyzed.
The whitening/anti-foaming is evaluated by an expert panel which is insisted of 15 experts. These experts are selected based on the global standard Designation E1490 –11. Whitening is evaluated separately on the upper side of the forearm. Measures the degree to which the product remains as an occlusive film (usually white) on the forearm.
The panel leader applies 100 μL product in a 10 cm straight line to the upper side of the forearm. Mark both ends of the 10cm line with a pen. Spread the product using the fore-and middle finger with sharp strokes back and forth at 120 bpm in a straight line on the arm. The evaluation takes place at 4 and 20 strokes. Then it is evaluated how much skin is visible, respectively how much white foam is visible. The score is each time from 0 for no whitening/foaming to 100 full whitening/foaming (meaning no skin visible) .
The experimental results are contained in the tables above. Com. 3 shows a reference example showing a conventional silicone containing formulation. It can be seen that upon application the white foam reduces significantly comparing the foaming after 4 and 20 stokes. A comparable fast reduction is observed for the examples according to the invention (Ex. 6 vs. Com. 3) . By adding an anionic emulsifier, the total amount of appearing foam can further be reduced (Ex. 1 to Ex. 5) .
In contrast to the examples according to the invention no reduction is observed with the silicone free reference examples Com. 1 and Com. 2. In fact, the foaming was found to increase using glyceryl stearate instead of a sucrose ester.
Claims (21)
- Leave-on cosmetic emulsion comprising based on the total weight of the emulsiona. At least one sucrose ester,b. Less than 0.1 or 0%of silicone oils and silicone compounds, andc. Less than 0.1 or 0%of alkanes and mineral oilscharacterized in that the emulsion is free from acrylic polymers.
- Use of at least one sucrose ester in a leave-on cosmetic emulsion comprising based on the total weight of the emulsiona. Less than 0.1 or 0%of silicone oils and silicone compounds, andb. Less than 0.1 or 0%of alkanes and mineral oilscharacterized in that the emulsion is free from acrylic polymers,to reduce the foaming of the emulsion upon application to the human skin.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the sucrose ester is an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 14 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and most preferably an ester of sucrose and at least one fatty acid comprising 18 carbon atoms.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the sucrose ester is chosen from sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the total quantity of the sucrose ester is in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion comprises sucrose polystearate, sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate in the range from 0.01 to 8.0%by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 7.0%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 0.7 to 5.7%by weight and most preferably 0.9 to 5.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- Emulsion or use according one of the proceeding claims characterized in that sucrose ester are contained in the range from 2.5 to 8%by weight, more preferably from 3.5 to 7%by weight and most preferably 4.5 to 6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- Emulsion or use according one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion comprises sucrose distearate and/or sucrose stearate in a total quantity ranging from 2.5 to 8%by weight, more preferably from 3.5 to 7%by weight and most preferably 4.5 to 6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that at least one anionic emulsifier is contained.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that sodium stearoyl glutamate and/or sodium cetearyl sulfate are contained as anionic emulsifier.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that sodium stearoyl glutamate is contained and the total quantity of sodium stearoyl glutamate is in the range from 0.05 to 1.2%by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.8%by weight and more preferably 0.15 to 0.4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that sodium cetearyl sulfate is contained and the total quantity of sodium cetearyl sulfate is in the range from 0.05 to 1.2%by weight, preferably 0.1 to 0.8%by weight and more preferably 0.15 to 0.4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion further comprises salicylic acid in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 4.2%by weight, preferably 0.3 to 2.5%by weight, more preferably 0.4 to 2.2%by weight and most preferably 0.8 to 1.5%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion, and/or lactic acid in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 4.2%by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.5%by weight, more preferably 1.2 to 2.9%by weight and most preferably 1.8 to 2.6%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion further comprises a polysaccharide type polymeric thickener, preferably selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, ceratonia siliqua gum, succinoglycan and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, in a total quantity ranging from 0.2 to 1.8%by weight, preferably 0.3 to 1.5%by weight and more preferably 0.5 to 1.4%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion, and more preferably a combination of xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate at a ratio by weight between xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate ranging from 10: 1 to 1: 10, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 8 and more preferably from 1: 1 to 1: 6.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion further comprises at least one fatty acid triglyceride according to the formula (I)
wherein R1, R2 and R3 independently stand for a saturated and/or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably selected from Cocos Nucifera Oil (Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil) ) , Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Astrocaryum sp Triglycerides) , C10-18 Triglycerides, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglyceride, C12-18 Acid Triglyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, C8-12 Acid Triglyceride, Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capric/Lauric/Myristic/Oleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Linoleic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride, Castoryl Maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (Ricinoleyl Monomaleate Triglyceride) ) , Hydrogenated C12-18 Triglycerides, Lauric/palmitic/oleic Triglyceride, Mustelic/palmitic Triglyceride, Oleic/linoleic Triglyceride, Oleic/Palmitic/Lauric/Myristic/Linoleic Triglyceride, Ricinoleic/caproic/caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride and/or Jojoba Oil/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Esters, and more preferably from Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. - Emulsion or use according to claim 16 characterized in that a total quantity of the fatty acid triglyceride is in the range from 0.5 to 8.0%by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 6.5%by weight, more preferably 2.1 to 6%by weight and most preferably from 3.0 to 5.0%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion further comprises a short chain polyol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably selected from butylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2 hexanediol, 1, 2 heptanediol, 1, 2 propanediol, methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol, in a quantity ranging from 0.5 to 10%by weight, preferably 1 to 9%by weight and more preferably from 1.5 to 8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion further comprises phenoxyethanol and/or ethylhexylglycerin, in a total quantity of phenoxyethanol ranging from 0.1 to 0.8%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion, and in a total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin ranging from 0.1 to 1.2%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that the emulsion further comprises an active ingredient, selected from the group containing sodium hyaluronate, 1-methylhydantoin-2-imide, creatine, folic acid, panthenol, pantolactone, vitamin C, magnolia, calcium pantothenate, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, carnitine, trehalose and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, in a total proportion of up to 5%by weight, preferably less than 4%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- Emulsion or use according to one of the proceeding claims characterized in that water is contained in the emulsion in a total quantity ranging from 70.0%by weight to 95%by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.
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| PCT/CN2023/086390 WO2024207273A1 (en) | 2023-04-06 | 2023-04-06 | Cosmetic emulsion with reduced white foaming |
| PCT/EP2024/057455 WO2024208592A1 (en) | 2023-04-06 | 2024-03-20 | Cosmetic emulsion with reduced white foaming |
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| PCT/CN2023/086390 WO2024207273A1 (en) | 2023-04-06 | 2023-04-06 | Cosmetic emulsion with reduced white foaming |
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| PCT/EP2024/057455 WO2024208592A1 (en) | 2023-04-06 | 2024-03-20 | Cosmetic emulsion with reduced white foaming |
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| JP3368005B2 (en) | 1993-08-26 | 2003-01-20 | 東レ・ダウコーニング・シリコーン株式会社 | Antifoam composition |
| DE19805918A1 (en) * | 1998-02-13 | 1999-08-19 | Beiersdorf Ag | Lipidreduced preparations |
| FR2986429B1 (en) * | 2012-02-06 | 2014-11-21 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES AND SUGAR OR SUGAR DERIVATIVE |
-
2023
- 2023-04-06 WO PCT/CN2023/086390 patent/WO2024207273A1/en unknown
-
2024
- 2024-03-20 WO PCT/EP2024/057455 patent/WO2024208592A1/en unknown
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2001034100A1 (en) * | 1999-11-08 | 2001-05-17 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Leave-on skin cosmetic compositions comprising a polyhydric alcohol and a liquid crystal forming emulsifier |
| CN109528503A (en) * | 2018-12-29 | 2019-03-29 | 花安堂生物科技集团有限公司 | A kind of emulsifier combination and the preparation method and application thereof forming liquid crystal structure |
| US20200206111A1 (en) * | 2018-12-31 | 2020-07-02 | L'oreal | Hair care and conditioning compositions |
| CN111184654A (en) * | 2019-12-25 | 2020-05-22 | 杭州千岛湖天鑫有限公司 | Dry and wet facial cleanser and preparation method thereof |
| CN114569473A (en) * | 2022-02-10 | 2022-06-03 | 士露洁家化(武汉)有限公司 | Environment-friendly washing-free antibacterial gel and preparation method thereof |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| WO2024208592A1 (en) | 2024-10-10 |
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