WO2024160514A1 - Cosmetic preparation for protection from skin aging - Google Patents
Cosmetic preparation for protection from skin aging Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2024160514A1 WO2024160514A1 PCT/EP2024/050697 EP2024050697W WO2024160514A1 WO 2024160514 A1 WO2024160514 A1 WO 2024160514A1 EP 2024050697 W EP2024050697 W EP 2024050697W WO 2024160514 A1 WO2024160514 A1 WO 2024160514A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- inci
- cosmetic preparation
- vitamin
- esters
- preparation
- Prior art date
Links
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 73
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 60
- 230000009759 skin aging Effects 0.000 title description 4
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 92
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 60
- ACTIUHUUMQJHFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Coenzym Q10 Natural products COC1=C(OC)C(=O)C(CC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)C)=C(C)C1=O ACTIUHUUMQJHFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 50
- ACTIUHUUMQJHFO-UPTCCGCDSA-N coenzyme Q10 Chemical compound COC1=C(OC)C(=O)C(C\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CCC=C(C)C)=C(C)C1=O ACTIUHUUMQJHFO-UPTCCGCDSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 50
- 235000017471 coenzyme Q10 Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 49
- 229940110767 coenzyme Q10 Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 241001672694 Citrus reticulata Species 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- ZZZCUOFIHGPKAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-erythro-ascorbic acid Natural products OCC1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O ZZZCUOFIHGPKAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 229930003268 Vitamin C Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 24
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- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- NPCOQXAVBJJZBQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N reduced coenzyme Q9 Natural products COC1=C(O)C(C)=C(CC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)C)C(O)=C1OC NPCOQXAVBJJZBQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 23
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- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- MWDZOUNAPSSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaempferol Natural products OC1=C(C(=O)c2cc(O)cc(O)c2O1)c3ccc(O)cc3 MWDZOUNAPSSOEL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- IQPNAANSBPBGFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N luteolin Chemical compound C=1C(O)=CC(O)=C(C(C=2)=O)C=1OC=2C1=CC=C(O)C(O)=C1 IQPNAANSBPBGFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- LRDGATPGVJTWLJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N luteolin Natural products OC1=CC(O)=CC(C=2OC3=CC(O)=CC(O)=C3C(=O)C=2)=C1 LRDGATPGVJTWLJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 18
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- YRWWOAFMPXPHEJ-OFBPEYICSA-K sodium L-ascorbic acid 2-phosphate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(OP([O-])([O-])=O)=C1[O-] YRWWOAFMPXPHEJ-OFBPEYICSA-K 0.000 claims description 10
- 229940048058 sodium ascorbyl phosphate Drugs 0.000 claims description 10
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- QFOHBWFCKVYLES-UHFFFAOYSA-N Butylparaben Chemical compound CCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 QFOHBWFCKVYLES-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- QAQJMLQRFWZOBN-LAUBAEHRSA-N L-ascorbyl-6-palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O QAQJMLQRFWZOBN-LAUBAEHRSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
- A61K8/355—Quinones
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing a combination of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and luteolin or citrus reticulata peel extract, as well as the cosmetic use of this combination for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skin wrinkles and for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of sagging connective tissue.
- coenzyme Q10 6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone
- vitamin C ascorbic acid
- the skin is the largest organ in the human body.
- the barrier function which prevents the skin (and thus ultimately the entire organism) from drying out, is probably the most important.
- the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside.
- This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which, as the outermost layer, forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
- the skin ages. Both intrinsic, i.e. unavoidable, aging processes and extrinsic, exogenous factors such as UV radiation play an important role.
- MMP1 matrix metalloproteinase
- Age-related fragmentation of collagen results in its accumulation, which irreversibly impairs the functional and structural integrity of the connective tissue in the dermis and thus leads to the loss of structure, elasticity and firmness, and even to the formation of wrinkles in the skin.
- Matrix metalloproteinase-1 is the collagenolytic enzyme responsible for collagen damage in UV-irradiated human skin.
- a cosmetic preparation containing a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) luteolin.
- a cosmetic preparation containing a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) citrus reticulata peel extract (INCI: citrus reticulata peel extract).
- This task is also surprisingly solved by a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) luteolin, for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skin wrinkles.
- This task is also surprisingly solved by a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) and/or one of its esters and c) Citrus Reticulata peel extract (INCI: Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract), for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skin wrinkles.
- the object is surprisingly achieved by a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) and/or one of its esters and c) luteolin, for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of sagging connective tissue.
- coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone
- INCI ubiquinone
- Vitamin C INCI: Ascorbic Acid
- luteolin for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of sagging connective tissue.
- the task is surprisingly solved by a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) citrus reticulata peel extract (INCI: citrus reticulata peel extract), for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of slackening of connective tissue.
- coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone
- vitamin C INCI: ascorbic acid
- citrus reticulata peel extract INCI: citrus reticulata peel extract
- the Citrus Reticulata peel extract according to the invention can be obtained, for example, by maceration, reflux hydrodistillation using Soxhlet, ultrasound-assisted extraction, microwave-assisted extraction and in particular by means of supercritical fluid extraction (here extracted in particular using carbon dioxide). It can also be purchased from Evonik under the trade name "TEGO ® Natural Citrus”. This Citrus Reticulata peel extract is then extremely rich in luteolin. It is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation or combination according to the invention is characterized in that sodium ascorbyl phosphate (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) or ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate) is used as the vitamin C derivative.
- the sole use of sodium ascorbyl phosphate (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) is particularly preferred. It is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation or combination is characterized in that the coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: Ubiquinone) is used in the cosmetic preparation in an amount of 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
- the coenzyme Q10 6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: Ubiquinone
- the cosmetic preparation contains vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters in a total amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. It is also advantageous according to the invention if the luteolin is used in a total amount of 0.00065 to 0.065% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
- Advantageous embodiments of the cosmetic preparation or combination according to the invention are also characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains citrus reticulata peel extract in a total amount of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
- Cosmetic preparations or combinations are also advantageously characterized according to the invention in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone) to the total amount of vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or its esters is from 1:2 to 1:20. It is advantageous according to the invention if in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone) to luteolin is from 1:4 to 5:1.
- Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are also characterized in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone) to citrus reticulata peel extract is from 1:20 to 20:1. Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention is a cosmetic preparation or combination which is characterized in that in the cosmetic preparation the Weight ratio of luteolin to the total amount of vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or its esters is from 8:1 to 1:51.
- a cosmetic preparation or combination is also advantageously characterized according to the invention in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of citrus reticulata peel extract to the total amount of vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or its esters is from 1:33 to 10:1. Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation is in the form of an emulsion and preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (O/W emulsion).
- O/W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
- emulsifier one or more compounds selected from the group glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearate salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, potassium cetyl phosphate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate.
- a cosmetic preparation or combination is advantageous in the sense of the present invention, which is characterized in that the preparation is free from propylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone, IPBC, DMDM hydantoin, dimethylol glycol, dimethylol urea, sodium hydroxymethyl glycinate, BHT, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone) and ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester and 4-methoxycinnamic acid ethylhexyl ester, polyacrylates, cross-linked acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol
- the preparation is free from methylparaben.
- the preparation according to the invention can be composed as usual and contain the usual cosmetic ingredients. Comparative test/proof of effectiveness
- the most important cell type in the skin connective tissue of the dermis is the fibroblast. Fibroblasts are responsible for the formation of collagen. Therefore, primary skin fibroblasts are very suitable in vitro as a model system for studying the effects of active ingredients on collagen formation.
- the active ingredients and active ingredient concentrations used were 5 ⁇ g/mL bioflavonoid extract (Tego natural citrus, containing luteolin), 155 ⁇ M sodium ascorbyl phosphate (vitamin C derivative) and 5.79 ⁇ M Q10 (ubiquinone-10). Cells treated with the respective solvent of the active ingredients were used as controls. After 24 hours, the amount of matrix metalloproteinase-1 protein was determined from the supernatants using a commercially available assay (Human Pro-MMP-1Quantkine ELISA Kit from R&D Systems Inc. (cat# DMP 100) according to the manufacturer's instructions. determined in ng/ml or standardized to the corresponding control and then the effects calculated as a percentage. 2.
- MMP1 protein amount was calculated in ng/ml (Fig 1). After standardization to the respective solvent control (100%), the values were calculated as a percentage (Fig 2). Significant p-values were marked with * (p ⁇ 0.05). 3. Result For the active ingredient combination of Citrus Reticulata peel extract (luteolin), ascorbyl phosphate and coenzyme Q10, a particularly good inhibition of the matrix metalloproteinase MMP1 protein amount was demonstrated in vitro in skin fibroblasts.
- Formulation I NCI 1 2 3 4 5 % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract 0.010 0.010 0.050 0.010 0.008 Ubiquinone 0.010 0.020 0.010 0.010 0.020 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.200 0.200 0 0 0 Ethylhexylglycerol 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.100 0.500 0.100 0.800 0.100 Cocoglycerides 1.000 1.000 0.
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Abstract
A cosmetic preparation that contains a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: Ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) and/or one of its esters, and c) luteolin or citrus reticulata peel extract, and the cosmetic use of this combination.
Description
Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg Beschreibung Kosmetische Zubereitung zum Schutz vor Hautalterung Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft eine kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend eine Kombination aus Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und Luteolin beziehungsweise Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt sowie die kosmetische Verwendung dieser Kombination zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe von Hautfalten sowie zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe der Erschlaffung des Bindegewebes. Die Haut ist das größte Organ des Menschen. Unter ihren vielen Funktionen (beispielsweise zur Wärmeregulation und als Sinnesorgan) ist die Barrierefunktion, die das Austrocknen der Haut (und damit letztlich des gesamten Organismus) verhindert, die wohl wichtigste. Gleichzeitig wirkt die Haut als Schutzeinrichtung gegen das Eindringen und die Aufnahme von außen kommender Stoffe. Bewirkt wird diese Barrierefunktion durch die Epidermis, welche als äußerste Schicht die eigentliche Schutzhülle gegenüber der Umwelt bildet. Mit etwa einem Zehntel der Gesamtdicke ist sie gleichzeitig die dünnste Schicht der Haut. Wie alle anderen Organe des Körpers altert auch die Haut. Dabei spielen sowohl intrinsische, also nicht abwendbare Alterungsprozesse, aber auch extrinsische, exogene Faktoren wie u.a. UV-Strahlung eine wichtige Rolle. Ein zentraler Aspekt der Hautalterung ist die Degradierung von wichtigen Komponenten der extrazellulären Matrix in der Dermis, die aus zahlreichen Bindegewebsfasern wie Kollagen und Elastin besteht. Dabei kommt dem im Alter beschleunigten Abbau von Bindegewebsfasern durch entsprechende abbauende Enzyme, sogenannten Matrix-Metalloproteinase (MMP) eine entscheidende Bedeutung zu. Im Menschen sind mehr als 20 verschiedene MMPs beschrieben worden, aber nur einige sind auch für den Kollagenabbau verantwortlich, insbesondere das MMP1. Für das MMP1 gilt: Es wird in der Haut exprimiert und ist auch in der Lage Kollagen enzymatisch abzubauen. Außerdem wird dieses Enzym besonders stark durch UV-Strahlung induziert und gilt deshalb als das hauptursächliche kollagenolytische Enyzm des UV-induzierten Kollagenabbaus. Die altersbedingte Fragmentierung von Kollagen resultiert in dessen Akkumulation, was irreversibel die funktionelle und strukturelle Integrität des Bindegewebes in der Dermis beeinträchtigt und damit zum Verlust der Struktur, Elastizität und Festigkeit bis hin zur Faltenbildung der Haut führt. (siehe beispielsweise Kohl et al. Hautalterung, Hautarzt 2009, 60:917–934; Fisher et al. Collagen
Fragmentation Promotes Oxidative Stress and Elevates Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 in Fibroblasts in Aged Human Skin, The American Journal of Pathology, 2009,174:101-114 oder Brennan et al. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 is the collagenolytic enzyme responsible for collagen damage in UV-irradiated human skin. Photochem Photobiol 2003, 78:43–48). Es ist seit langer Zeit das Bedürfnis der Menschen, diese Hautalterung und Faltenbildung wirksam zu unterdrücken. Und so kennt der Fachmann eine Vielzahl an kosmetischen Produkten, die zu diesem Zwecke angeboten werden. Die Vielzahl an kommerziell erhältlichen Kosmetika darf jedoch nicht darüber hinwegtäuschen, dass diese Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik in ihrer Wirksamkeit noch zu wünschen lassen. Es war daher die Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung eine neue Wirkstoffkombination zu entwickeln, welche zur Prophylaxe und/oder Behandlung von Hautfalten sowie zur Prophylaxe und/oder Behandlung der Erschlaffung des Bindegewebes wirksam geeignet ist. Überraschend gelöst wird diese Aufgabe durch eine kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend eine Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Luteolin. Überraschend gelöst wird diese Aufgabe ferner durch eine kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend eine Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt (INCI: Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract). Überraschend gelöst wird diese Aufgabe außerdem durch eine Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Luteolin, zur Verwendung in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe von Hautfalten. Überraschend gelöst wird diese Aufgabe darüber hinaus durch eine Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon),
b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt (INCI: Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract), zur Verwendung in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe von Hautfalten. Darüber hinaus wird die Aufgabe überraschend gelöst durch eine Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Luteolin, zur Verwendung in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe der Erschlaffung des Bindegewebes. Nicht zuletzt wird die Aufgabe überraschend gelöst durch eine Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt (INCI: Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract), zur Verwendung in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe der Erschlaffung des Bindegewebes. Zwar ist die Rolle von Vitamin C und dessen Derivaten sowie von Coenzym Q10 auf die Collagenbildung bereits Gegenstand von wissenschaftlichen Untersuchungen gewesen (siehe beispielsweise Pullar et al. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health, Nutrients 2017, 9(8),866 oder Mine et al. Stimulatory effects of collagen production induced by coenzyme Q10 in cultured skin fibroblasts J. Clin Biochem Nutr 2022, 71(1):29-33), doch konnten diese Untersuchungen nicht den Weg zur vorliegenden Erfindung weisen. Im Rahmen der vorliegenden Offenbarung beziehen sich die Formulierungen „erfindungsgemäß“, „erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung“ etc. immer auf die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen, Kombinationen und Verwendungen, d.h. auch auf Zubereitungen, in denen die erfindungsgemäßen Verwendungen verwirklicht werden. Der erfindungsgemäße Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt kann beispielsweise durch Mazeration, Rückflusshydrodistillation mittels Soxhlet, Ultraschall unterstützte Extraktion, Mikrowellen unterstützte Extraktion und insbesondere mittels überkritischer Fluid Extraktion (Supercritical Fluid Extraction) (hier insbesondere mittels Kohlendioxid extrahiert) gewonnen werden. Er kann u.a. auch unter dem Handelsnamen „TEGO® Natural Citrus“ bei der Firma Evonik erworben werden. Dieser Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt ist dann ausgesprochen reich an Luteolin.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß von Vorteil, wenn die erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass als Vitamin C Derivat Natriumascorbylphosphat (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) oder Ascorbylpalmitat (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate) eingesetzt wird. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt ist dabei der alleinige Einsatz von Natriumascorbylphosphat (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate). Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn die kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Coenzym Q10 (6-all- trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), in einer Menge von 0.005 bis 0.1 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, eingesetzt wird. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Ausführungsformen der vorliegenden Erfindung werden auch dadurch erhalten, dass die kosmetische Zubereitung in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 1,0 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, eingesetzt wird. Außerdem ist es erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Luteolin, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,00065 bis 0,065 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, eingesetzt wird. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Ausführungsformen der erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zubereitung oder Kombination sind auch dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,001 bis 0,1 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, eingesetzt wird. Kosmetische Zubereitungen oder Kombinationen sind erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft auch dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Gewichtsverhältnis von Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon) zur Gesamtmenge an Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder seinen Estern von 1:2 bis 1:20 beträgt. Es ist erfindungsgemäß von Vorteil, wenn in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Gewichtsverhältnis von Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4- benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon) zu Luteolin von 1:4 bis 5:1 beträgt. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte Ausführungsformen der vorliegenden Erfindung sind auch dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Gewichtsverhältnis von Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon) zu Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt von 1:20 bis 20:1 beträgt. Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ferner eine kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination, die dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das
Gewichtsverhältnis von Luteolin zur Gesamtmenge an Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder seinen Estern von 8:1 bis 1:51 beträgt. Eine kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft auch dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Gewichtsverhältnis von Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt zur Gesamtmenge an Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder seinen Estern von 1:33 bis 10:1 beträgt. Außerdem ist es erfindungsgemäß von Vorteil, wenn die kosmetische Zubereitung in Form einer Emulsion und bevorzugt in Form einer Öl-in-Wasser Emulsion (O/W-Emulsion) vorliegt. In einem solchen Falle ist es erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, als Emulgator eine oder mehrere Verbindungen gewählt aus der Gruppe Glycerylstearatcitrat, Glycerylstearat (selbstemulgierend), Stearinsäure, Stearatsalze, Polyglyceryl-3-methylglycosedistearat, Natriumcetearylsulfat, Kaliumcetylphosphat, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat, Natriumstearoylglutamat eingesetzt werden. Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist nicht zuletzt eine kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination, die dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass die Zubereitung frei ist von Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Methylisothiazolinon, Chlormethylisothiazolinon, IPBC, DMDM- Hydantoin, Dimethylol Glycol, Dimethylol Urea, Sodium Hydroxmethyl Glycinate, BHT, 3-(4- Methylbenzyliden)campher und 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon (INCI: Oxybenzon) und Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (INCI: Octocrylen), 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester und 4-Methoxyzimtsäureethylhexylester, Polyacrylaten, quervernetzten Acrylat/C10-C30 Alkylacrylat Polymeren, Polyethylenglycolethern und Polyethylenglycolestern. Außerdem ist es erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn die Zubereitung frei ist von Methylparaben. Darüber hinaus kann die erfindungsgemäße Zubereitung wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und die üblichen kosmetischen Inhaltsstoffe enthalten. Vergleichsversuch/Wirknachweis Der wichtigste Zelltyp im Hautbindegewebe der Dermis ist der Fibroblast. Fibroblasten sind für die Bildung von Kollagen verantwortlich. Deshalb eignen sich primäre Hautfibroblasten in vitro sehr gut als Modellsystem, um die Effekte von Wirkstoffen auf Kollagenbildung zu untersuchen. Damit lassen sich dann gezielt Rückschlüsse auf die Effekte in der Haut insbesondere im Kontext zur Hautfestigkeit und Hautstruktur, welche ja primär von den Bindegewebsfasern bestimmt wird, ziehen (siehe beispielsweise: Lago et al: The effect of aging in primary human dermal fibroblasts PLoS One 2019, 14(7): e0219165). 1. experimentelle Assay-Durchführung
Humane dermale Fibroblasten (gekauft bei geprüften externen Anbietern oder selbst nach Standardprotokoll aus humaner Haut isoliert) von 12 Spendern wurden in Dulbecco Modified Eagle Medium mit entsprechenden Zusätzen kultiviert und für das Experiment auf 96- Wellplatten in 100 µl Medium ausgesät. Nach dem Anwachsen der Zellen wurden die jeweiligen zu testenden Wirkstoffe alleine oder in definierten Kombinationen auf die Zellen gegeben. Die eingesetzten Wirkstoffe und Wirkstoffkonzentrationen waren 5 µg/mL Bioflavonoid Extrakt (Tego natural citrus, enthaltend Luteolin), 155 µM Natriumascorbylphosphat (Vitamin C Derivat) und 5.79 µM Q10 (Ubichinon-10). Als Kontrollen wurden mit dem jeweiligen Lösungsmittel der Wirkstoffe behandelte Zellen herangezogen. Nach 24h wurde aus den Überständen die Menge an Matrix metalloproteinase-1 Protein mit Hilfe eines kommerziell verfügbaren Assays (Human Pro-MMP-1Quantkine ELISA Kit von R&D Systems Inc. (cat# DMP 100) nach Herstellerangaben bestimmt. in ng/ml bestimmt bzw. auf die entsprechende Kontrolle normiert und dann die Effekte prozentual berechnet. 2. Berechnung der MMP1 Proteinmenge Die Berechnung der MMP1 Proteinmenge erfolgte in ng/ml (Fig 1). Nach Normierung auf die jeweilige Lösungsmittelkontrolle (100%) wurden die Werte prozentual berechnet (Fig 2). Signifikante p-Werte wurden mit * markiert (p<0.05). 3. Ergebnis Für die Wirkstoffkombination aus Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt (Luteolin), Ascorbylphosphat und Coenzym Q10 konnte eine besondere gute Hemmung der Matrix-Metalloproteinase MMP1 Proteinmenge in vitro in Hautfibroblasten nachgewiesen werden. Die biologische Hemmung der MMP1 durch die Kombination der 3 Wirkstoffe lag (80%) überraschend hoch, da die 2er Kombination aus Ascorbylphosphat und Coenzym Q10 keinerlei positiven, sondern sogar einen steigernden Effekt auf die MMP1-Proteinmengen (105%) zeigte und die Effekte des Bioflavonid Extraktes (Tego natural citrus, enthaltend Luteolin) alleine auch schwächer ausfielen (86%). Beispiele Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzu- schränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders an- gegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zube- reitungen bezogen. Rezeptur INCI 1 2 3 4 5 Gew.-% Gew-% Gew.-% Gew.-% Gew-% Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract 0.010 0.010 0.050 0.010 0.008 Ubiquinone 0.010 0.020 0.010 0.010 0.020
Hydroxyacetophenone 0.200 0.200 0 0 0 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.100 0.500 0.100 0.800 0.100 Cocoglycerides 1.000 1.000 0 0 0 Isopropyl Palmitate 4.000 4.000 4.500 2.000 2.000 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 0 0 1.000 0 1.000 Hydrogenated Coco- Glycerides 1.000 1.000 0 0 0 Ethylhexyl Stearate 4.000 4.000 0 0 0 Isopropyl Stearate 4.000 4.000 0 0 0 Ethylhexyl Cocoate 0 0 0 3.400 3.400 Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 0.150 0.150 0.100 0.100 0.100 Glyceryl Stearate SE 1.500 1.500 2.000 2.000 2.000 Glyceryl Stearate 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 Parfuem 0.350 0.350 0.350 0.350 0.350 Glycerin+Aqua 7.500 7.500 7.000 7.000 7.000 Citric Acid 0.040 0.040 0.060 0.040 0.060 Phenoxyethanol+Aqua 0.900 0.900 0.900 0.900 0.900 Alcohol Denat.+Aqua 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 Aqua+Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.100 0.100 0.150 0.100 0.150 Myristyl Alcohol 1.000 1.000 0 0 0 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.000 2.000 3.500 4.000 3.000 Gellan Gum 0.060 0.060 0 0 0 Xanthan Gum 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.500 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 0.750 1.000 0.400 0.750 0.400 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg Description Cosmetic preparation to protect against skin aging The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing a combination of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and luteolin or citrus reticulata peel extract, as well as the cosmetic use of this combination for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skin wrinkles and for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of sagging connective tissue. The skin is the largest organ in the human body. Of its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function, which prevents the skin (and thus ultimately the entire organism) from drying out, is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which, as the outermost layer, forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin. Like all other organs in the body, the skin ages. Both intrinsic, i.e. unavoidable, aging processes and extrinsic, exogenous factors such as UV radiation play an important role. A central aspect of skin aging is the degradation of important components of the extracellular matrix in the dermis, which consists of numerous connective tissue fibers such as collagen and elastin. The accelerated degradation of connective tissue fibers with age by corresponding degrading enzymes, so-called matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), is of crucial importance. More than 20 different MMPs have been described in humans, but only a few are responsible for collagen degradation, in particular MMP1. The following applies to MMP1: It is expressed in the skin and is also able to break down collagen enzymatically. In addition, this enzyme is particularly strongly induced by UV radiation and is therefore considered the main collagenolytic enzyme responsible for UV-induced collagen degradation. Age-related fragmentation of collagen results in its accumulation, which irreversibly impairs the functional and structural integrity of the connective tissue in the dermis and thus leads to the loss of structure, elasticity and firmness, and even to the formation of wrinkles in the skin. (see, for example, Kohl et al. Hautalterung, Hautarzt 2009, 60:917–934; Fisher et al. Collagen Fragmentation Promotes Oxidative Stress and Elevates Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 in Fibroblasts in Aged Human Skin, The American Journal of Pathology, 2009,174:101-114 or Brennan et al. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 is the collagenolytic enzyme responsible for collagen damage in UV-irradiated human skin. Photochem Photobiol 2003, 78:43-48). People have long wanted to effectively suppress this skin aging and wrinkle formation. And so the person skilled in the art is aware of a large number of cosmetic products that are offered for this purpose. However, the large number of commercially available cosmetics should not disguise the fact that these prior art preparations still leave much to be desired in terms of their effectiveness. It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a new combination of active ingredients that is effective for the prevention and/or treatment of skin wrinkles and for the prevention and/or treatment of sagging connective tissue. This object is surprisingly achieved by a cosmetic preparation containing a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) luteolin. This object is also surprisingly achieved by a cosmetic preparation containing a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) citrus reticulata peel extract (INCI: citrus reticulata peel extract). This task is also surprisingly solved by a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) luteolin, for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skin wrinkles. This task is also surprisingly solved by a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) and/or one of its esters and c) Citrus Reticulata peel extract (INCI: Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract), for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skin wrinkles. In addition, the object is surprisingly achieved by a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) and/or one of its esters and c) luteolin, for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of sagging connective tissue. Last but not least, the task is surprisingly solved by a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) citrus reticulata peel extract (INCI: citrus reticulata peel extract), for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of slackening of connective tissue. Although the role of vitamin C and its derivatives as well as of coenzyme Q10 on collagen formation has already been the subject of scientific studies (see, for example, Pullar et al. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health, Nutrients 2017, 9(8),866 or Mine et al. Stimulatory effects of collagen production induced by coenzyme Q 10 in cultured skin fibroblasts J. Clin Biochem Nutr 2022, 71(1):29-33), these studies could not point the way to the present invention. In the context of the present disclosure, the formulations "according to the invention", "preparation according to the invention" etc. always refer to the preparations, combinations and uses according to the invention, ie also to preparations in which the uses according to the invention are realized. The Citrus Reticulata peel extract according to the invention can be obtained, for example, by maceration, reflux hydrodistillation using Soxhlet, ultrasound-assisted extraction, microwave-assisted extraction and in particular by means of supercritical fluid extraction (here extracted in particular using carbon dioxide). It can also be purchased from Evonik under the trade name "TEGO ® Natural Citrus". This Citrus Reticulata peel extract is then extremely rich in luteolin. It is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation or combination according to the invention is characterized in that sodium ascorbyl phosphate (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) or ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate) is used as the vitamin C derivative. According to the invention, the sole use of sodium ascorbyl phosphate (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) is particularly preferred. It is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation or combination is characterized in that the coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: Ubiquinone) is used in the cosmetic preparation in an amount of 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are also obtained in that the cosmetic preparation contains vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters in a total amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. It is also advantageous according to the invention if the luteolin is used in a total amount of 0.00065 to 0.065% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Advantageous embodiments of the cosmetic preparation or combination according to the invention are also characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains citrus reticulata peel extract in a total amount of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Cosmetic preparations or combinations are also advantageously characterized according to the invention in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone) to the total amount of vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or its esters is from 1:2 to 1:20. It is advantageous according to the invention if in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone) to luteolin is from 1:4 to 5:1. Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are also characterized in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone) to citrus reticulata peel extract is from 1:20 to 20:1. Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention is a cosmetic preparation or combination which is characterized in that in the cosmetic preparation the Weight ratio of luteolin to the total amount of vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or its esters is from 8:1 to 1:51. A cosmetic preparation or combination is also advantageously characterized according to the invention in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of citrus reticulata peel extract to the total amount of vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or its esters is from 1:33 to 10:1. Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic preparation is in the form of an emulsion and preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (O/W emulsion). In such a case, it is preferred according to the invention to use as emulsifier one or more compounds selected from the group glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearate salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, potassium cetyl phosphate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate. Last but not least, a cosmetic preparation or combination is advantageous in the sense of the present invention, which is characterized in that the preparation is free from propylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone, IPBC, DMDM hydantoin, dimethylol glycol, dimethylol urea, sodium hydroxymethyl glycinate, BHT, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone) and ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester and 4-methoxycinnamic acid ethylhexyl ester, polyacrylates, cross-linked acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters. It is also advantageous according to the invention if the preparation is free from methylparaben. In addition, the preparation according to the invention can be composed as usual and contain the usual cosmetic ingredients. Comparative test/proof of effectiveness The most important cell type in the skin connective tissue of the dermis is the fibroblast. Fibroblasts are responsible for the formation of collagen. Therefore, primary skin fibroblasts are very suitable in vitro as a model system for studying the effects of active ingredients on collagen formation. This then allows targeted conclusions to be drawn about the effects in the skin, particularly in the context of skin firmness and skin structure, which is primarily determined by the connective tissue fibers (see, for example: Lago et al: The effect of aging in primary human dermal fibroblasts PLoS One 2019, 14(7): e0219165). 1. Experimental assay implementation Human dermal fibroblasts (purchased from verified external suppliers or isolated from human skin using a standard protocol) from 12 donors were cultured in Dulbecco Modified Eagle Medium with appropriate additives and seeded for the experiment on 96-well plates in 100 µl medium. After the cells had grown, the active ingredients to be tested were added to the cells alone or in defined combinations. The active ingredients and active ingredient concentrations used were 5 µg/mL bioflavonoid extract (Tego natural citrus, containing luteolin), 155 µM sodium ascorbyl phosphate (vitamin C derivative) and 5.79 µM Q10 (ubiquinone-10). Cells treated with the respective solvent of the active ingredients were used as controls. After 24 hours, the amount of matrix metalloproteinase-1 protein was determined from the supernatants using a commercially available assay (Human Pro-MMP-1Quantkine ELISA Kit from R&D Systems Inc. (cat# DMP 100) according to the manufacturer's instructions. determined in ng/ml or standardized to the corresponding control and then the effects calculated as a percentage. 2. Calculation of the MMP1 protein amount The MMP1 protein amount was calculated in ng/ml (Fig 1). After standardization to the respective solvent control (100%), the values were calculated as a percentage (Fig 2). Significant p-values were marked with * (p<0.05). 3. Result For the active ingredient combination of Citrus Reticulata peel extract (luteolin), ascorbyl phosphate and coenzyme Q10, a particularly good inhibition of the matrix metalloproteinase MMP1 protein amount was demonstrated in vitro in skin fibroblasts. The biological inhibition of MMP1 by the combination of the 3 The active ingredients were surprisingly high (80%), as the combination of two, ascorbyl phosphate and coenzyme Q10, showed no positive effect, but actually increased the MMP1 protein levels (105%), and the effects of the bioflavonide extract (Tego natural citrus, containing luteolin) alone were also weaker (86%). Examples The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or the total weight of the preparations. Formulation I NCI 1 2 3 4 5 % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract 0.010 0.010 0.050 0.010 0.008 Ubiquinone 0.010 0.020 0.010 0.010 0.020 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.200 0.200 0 0 0 Ethylhexylglycerol 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.100 0.500 0.100 0.800 0.100 Cocoglycerides 1.000 1.000 0. 0 0 Isopropyl Palmitate 4,000 4,000 4,500 2,000 2,000 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 0 0 1,000 0 1,000 Hydrogenated Coco-G lycerides 1,000 1,000 0 0 0 Ethylhexyl Stearate 4,000 4,000 0 0 Isopropyl Stearate 4.000 4.000 0 0 0 Ethylhexyl Cocoate 0 0 0 3.400 3.400 Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 0.150 0.150 0.100 0.100 0.100 Glyceryl Stearate SE 1.500 1.500 2.000 2.000 2.000 Glyceryl Stearate 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 0.500 Parfuem 0.350 0.350 0.350 0.350 0.350 Glycerin+Aqua 7.500 7.500 7.000 7.000 7.000 Citric Acid 0.040 0.040 0.060 0.040 0.060 Phenoxyethanol+Aqua 0.900 0.900 0.900 0.900 0.900 Alcohol Denat.+Aqua 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 Aqua+Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.100 0.100 0.150 0.100 0.150 Myristyl Alcohol 1.000 1.000 0 0 0 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.000 2.000 3.500 4.000 3.000 Gellan Gum 0.060 0.060 0 0 0 Xanthan Gum 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.500 Hydroxypropyl Starch P hosphate 0.750 1.000 0.400 0.750 0.400 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
Claims
Patentansprüche 1. Kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend eine Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Luteolin. Claims 1. Cosmetic preparation containing a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) luteolin.
2. Kosmetische Zubereitung enthaltend eine Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt (INCI: Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract). 3. Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Luteolin, zur Verwendung in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe von Hautfalten. 4. Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,2. Cosmetic preparation containing a combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) citrus reticulata peel extract (INCI: citrus reticulata peel extract). 3. Combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) luteolin, for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skin wrinkles. 4. Combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,
3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,
4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt (INCI: Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract), zur Verwendung in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe von Hautfalten. 4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) citrus reticulata peel extract (INCI: citrus reticulata peel extract), for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skin wrinkles.
5. Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Luteolin, zur Verwendung in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe der Erschlaffung des Bindegewebes. 5. Combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) luteolin, for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of relaxant connective tissue.
6. Kombination aus a) Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), b) Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester und c) Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt (INCI: Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract), zur Verwendung in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe der Erschlaffung des Bindegewebes.
6. Combination of a) coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone), b) vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or one of its esters and c) citrus reticulata peel extract (INCI: citrus reticulata peel extract), for use in cosmetic preparations for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of slackening of connective tissue.
7. Kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2 oder Kombination nach einem der Ansprüche 3 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als Vitamin C Derivat Ascorbylpalmitat (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate) und/oder Natriumascorbylphosphat (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) eingesetzt wird. 7. Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2 or combination according to one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate) and/or sodium ascorbyl phosphate (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) is used as vitamin C derivative.
8. Kosmetische Zubereitung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2 oder Kombination nach einem der Ansprüche 3 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als Vitamin C Derivat Natriumascorbylphosphat (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) eingesetzt wird. 8. Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2 or combination according to one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that sodium ascorbyl phosphate (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) is used as vitamin C derivative.
9. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon), in einer Menge von 0,005 bis 0,1 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, eingesetzt wird. 9. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone) is used in the cosmetic preparation in an amount of 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
10. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder eines seiner Ester, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 1,0 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, eingesetzt wird. 10. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) and/or one of its esters in a total amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
11. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Luteolin, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,00065 bis 0,065 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, eingesetzt wird. 11. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the luteolin is used in the cosmetic preparation in a total amount of 0.00065 to 0.065% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
12. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,001 bis 0,1 Gewichts-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, eingesetzt wird. 12. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Citrus Reticulata peel extract is used in the cosmetic preparation in a total amount of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
13. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Gewichtsverhältnis von Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl- 1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon) zur Gesamtmenge an Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder seinen Estern von 1:2 bis 1:20 beträgt. 13. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone) to the total amount of vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or its esters is from 1:2 to 1:20.
14. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Gewichtsverhältnis von Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl- 1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon) zu Luteolin von 1:4 bis 5:1 beträgt. 14. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone) to luteolin is from 1:4 to 5:1.
15. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Gewichtsverhältnis von Coenzym Q10 (6-all-trans-Decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl- 1,4-benzochinon, INCI: Ubichinon) zu Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt von 1:20 bis 20:1 beträgt.
15. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of coenzyme Q10 (6-all-trans-decaprenyl-2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone, INCI: ubiquinone) to Citrus Reticulata peel extract is from 1:20 to 20:1.
16. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Gewichtsverhältnis von Luteolin zur Gesamtmenge an Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder seinen Estern von 8:1 bis 1:51 beträgt. 16. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of luteolin to the total amount of vitamin C (INCI: ascorbic acid) and/or its esters is from 8:1 to 1:51.
17. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung das Gewichtsverhältnis von Citrus Reticulata Schalenextrakt zur Gesamtmenge an Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) und/oder seinen Estern von 1:33 bis 10:1 beträgt. 17. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the cosmetic preparation the weight ratio of Citrus Reticulata peel extract to the total amount of vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) and/or its esters is from 1:33 to 10:1.
18. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass in der kosmetischen Zubereitung in Form einer Emulsion und bevorzugt in Form einer Öl-in-Wasser Emulsion (O/W-Emulsion) vorliegt. 18. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation is in the form of an emulsion and preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (O/W emulsion).
19. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach Anspruch 18, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als Emulgator eine oder mehrere Verbindungen gewählt aus der Gruppe Glycerylstearatcitrat, Glycerylstearat (selbstemulgierend), Stearinsäure, Stearatsalze, Polyglyceryl-3-methylglycosedistearat, Natriumcetearylsulfat, Kaliumcetylphosphat, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat, Natriumstearoylglutamat eingesetzt werden. 19. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to claim 18, characterized in that one or more compounds selected from the group glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearate salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, potassium cetyl phosphate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate are used as emulsifier.
20. Kosmetische Zubereitung oder Kombination nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Zubereitung frei ist von Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Methylisothiazolinon, Chlormethylisothiazolinon, IPBC, DMDM- Hydantoin, Dimethylol Glycol, Dimethylol Urea, Sodium Hydroxmethyl Glycinate, BHT, 3- (4-Methylbenzyliden)campher und 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon (INCI: Oxybenzon) und Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (INCI: Octocrylen), 4- Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester und 4-Methoxyzimtsäureethylhexylester, Polyacrylaten, quervernetzten Acrylat/C10-C30 Alkylacrylat Polymeren, Polyethylenglycolethern und Polyethylenglycolestern.
20. Cosmetic preparation or combination according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from propylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone, IPBC, DMDM hydantoin, dimethylol glycol, dimethylol urea, sodium hydroxymethyl glycinate, BHT, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone) and ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester and 4-methoxycinnamic acid ethylhexyl ester, polyacrylates, cross-linked acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters.
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WO2007011674A2 (en) * | 2005-07-15 | 2007-01-25 | Baker Donald J | Compositions and methods for treating and preventing inflammatory and/or degenerative processes in humans and other animals |
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WO2007011674A2 (en) * | 2005-07-15 | 2007-01-25 | Baker Donald J | Compositions and methods for treating and preventing inflammatory and/or degenerative processes in humans and other animals |
Non-Patent Citations (8)
Title |
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BRENNAN ET AL.: "Matrix metalloproteinase-1 is the collagenolytic enzyme responsible for collagen damage in UV-irradiatedhuman skin", PHOTOCHEM PHOTOBIOL, vol. 78, 2003, pages 43 - 48 |
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 20 November 2017 (2017-11-20), ANONYMOUS: "Superior Anti-Wrinkle Dark Circle Eye Cream with Resveratrol", XP093141437, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/5250287/ Database accession no. 5250287 * |
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 29 May 2020 (2020-05-29), ANONYMOUS: "Orange VC Translucent Capsule Essence", XP093141136, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/7658209/ Database accession no. 7658209 * |
FISHER ET AL.: "Collagen Fragmentation Promotes Oxidative Stress and Elevates Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 in Fibroblasts in Aged Human Skin", THE AMERICAN JOURNAL OF PATHOLOGY, vol. 174, 2009, pages 101 - 114 |
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MINE ET AL.: "Stimulatory effects of collagen production induced by coenzyme Q in cultured skin fibroblasts", J. CLIN BIOCHEM NUTR, vol. 71, no. 1, 2022, pages 29 - 33 |
PULLAR ET AL.: "The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health", NUTRIENTS, vol. 9, no. 8, 2017, pages 866 |
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