WO2024089083A1 - Solid composition comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, a non-volatile oil and process using same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one waxy system comprising at least sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil: - the sunflower wax content representing 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - the hydrogenated jojoba oil content representing 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - the sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil representing at least 80% by weight of the waxy system, - the total content of waxes being between 7% and 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, which consists in applying said composition.

Description

SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING SUNFLOWER WAX, HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL, A NON-VOLATILE OIL AND PROCESS USING SAME

The present invention relates to a solid composition intended to be applied to the skin and/or the lips, more particularly for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, which is in the form of a stick, and which comprises particular vegetable waxes, and also to a process using same.

Cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the skin and/or the lips, in particular for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips, have been known for a very long time and are in the form of more or less thick fluids. Thus, in the more specific case of compositions for the lips, the compositions can take presentation forms with a low viscosity, such as oils and glosses, up to solid compositions in the form of a stick, which may or may not be supported, compositions in pencil form, or else compositions stored in jars.

The compositions may also be anhydrous or alternatively be in the form of direct (oil-in-water) or invert (water-in-oil) emulsions.

The present invention relates more particularly to compositions in stick form comprising little or no water.

By virtue of the use of film-forming products, in particular silicone products, the compositions have improved their use properties, such as enhancing the wear property or decreasing the migration.

The compositions also make it possible to obtain matt, satiny or shiny makeup results as a function once again of the ingredients present, for instance silicone or non-silicone volatile oils, silicone elastomers, conveyed or not in at least one oil, and mineral or organic fillers.

In recent years, a new tendency is markedly apparent with consumers, who are less exclusively, but still to some extent despite everything, focused on the performance qualities of the makeup composition. Specifically, ever greater attention is being paid to the ingredients used, in particular their natural character.

The present invention is part of this tendency and thus relates more particularly to solid compositions, in particular for makeup and/or care, very particularly for the lips, favouring the use of compounds of natural origin, in particular vegetable origin. In addition, the compositions according to the invention advantageously make it possible to limit the content of ingredients derived in particular from petrochemistry, such as oils of hydrocarbon type, non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as polyethylene or polymethylene waxes, and also of silicone ingredients.

One of the difficulties encountered with ingredients of natural origin is that natural waxes, as a result, inter alia, of their affinity with vegetable oils, do not always correctly structure said oils, resulting in sticks that are too soft or too hard, not enabling satisfactory application of the composition and/or resulting in the stick breaking. This phenomenon is also impacted by the presence of pigments in the composition.

The objectives of the present invention are therefore to propose solid cosmetic compositions, in stick form, with a content of ingredients derived from the petroleum industry which is limited or even zero, and which have suitable mechanical properties for an easy, uniform and sufficient application of the composition, without causing the stick to break. In addition, the deposit obtained must remain comfortable, non-drying and exhibit little migration, in particular in the wrinkles and fine lines of the region around the lips or eyes.

These aims, and others, are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is thus a solid cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one waxy system comprising at least sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil:

- the sunflower wax content representing 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

- the hydrogenated jojoba oil content representing 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

- the sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil representing at least 80% by weight, preferably more than 80% by weight of the waxy system,

- the total content of waxes being between 8% and 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Another subject of the invention is a method consisting in applying said composition to the skin and/or the lips, in particular for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.

The composition according to the invention is therefore in a solid form, more particularly in the form of a stick, which has the advantage of having a suitable hardness that is compatible with an easy application of the composition, with no breakage of the stick. Moreover, the amount deposited on the lips is suitable, neither too little nor too much, for obtaining a suitable makeup result, in few passes. In addition, the deposit obtained is precise, homogeneous, not very tacky, does not migrate much and has a satisfactory wear property over time. The deposit does not dry out the lips either and it remains comfortable.

These advantages, and others, of the present invention will become more clearly apparent on reading the description and the examples which will follow.

It should be noted that, in the remainder of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits indicated for a range are included in said range.

The expressions “at least one” and “several” are used without distinction.

In addition, the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by total weight of the composition.

Protocol for measuring the hardness

The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:

The stick is stored at 20°C for 16 hours before measuring the hardness.

The hardness is measured at 20°C by the “cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 0.25 mm, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a rate of 100 mm/min.

The hardness of the samples, expressed in Nm^-1, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing device sold by Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, noted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance through which the wire passes. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in metres).

The hardness is converted into Nm^-1 by the following equation: (Y x 10^-3 x 9.8) / L.

According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 90 and 220 Nm^-1, preferably 90 and 160 Nm^-1.

Protocol for measuring the amount deposited:

The measurement is carried out using a dynamic brittleness device from Rematique Electronique Industrielle.

The test consists in evaluating the amount of composition deposited on a given support, after having moved the stick positioned flat and parallel on the support, by applying a pressure at the end of the stick of between 75 and 80 g, making one back-and-forth movement per second at constant speed for 3 minutes.

The amount deposited is directly calculated by weighing the lipstick and the packaging mechanism (without the cap) before and after the measurement on a precision balance.

This test also makes it possible to visually evaluate the resistance of the lipstick (to cracking, breaking, loss of alignment, dislodgement, etc.).

Measurement conditions:

Lipstick with a diameter of 12.7 mm, with a bevel shape (presence of a cut section), the stick not being supported by an end fitting. For the measurement, the stick is removed as much as possible from the mechanism of the packaging.

The lipstick to be tested is placed in a chamber thermostatically controlled at 20°C, 16 hours before the measurement.

Test temperature: 20°C.

Force applied: 75 to 80 g at the end of the stick.

Support for the measurement: roll of paper for dynamic brittleness device, supplied by Rematique Electronique Industrielle (size of the support for the test: 9 cm x 4.6 cm).

According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has an amount of composition deposited at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 8 and 35 mg.

Protocol for measuring the melting temperature of a wax

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.

The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 2000 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.

During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve.

WAXY SYSTEM

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one waxy system comprising at least sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil.

The composition may optionally comprise at least one additional wax, different from the two waxes mentioned above, which will be described in detail below.

The term “waxy system” is understood to mean all the waxes, that is to say the sunflower wax, the hydrogenated jojoba oil and any additional waxes, present in the composition according to the invention.

In addition, the sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil represent at least 80% by weight, preferably more than 80% by weight, of the waxy system, and advantageously up to 100% by weight of the waxy system. Preferably, the sunflower wax and the hydrogenated jojoba oil represent from 85% to 95% by weight of the waxy system.

Preferably, the sunflower wax represents between 20% and 95% by weight of the waxy system and the hydrogenated jojoba oil represents between 5% and 80% by weight of the waxy system.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrogenated jojoba oil/sunflower wax weight ratio ranges from 0.15 to 7.5, even more particularly from 0.15 to 5.

It should be noted that the total wax content represents from 7% to 16% by weight, and preferably from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SUNFLOWER WAX

The sunflower wax (INCI name: HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) is obtained by cooling (winterization) of sunflower seed oil, filtration and lastly refining. It is notably sold by Koster Keunen.

It is in the form of a solid, the melting temperature of which is between 74°C and 77°C. It is constituted mainly of saturated monoesters comprising 42 to 62 carbon atoms.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention has a sunflower wax content of between 1.5% and 8% by weight, in particular between 1.8% and 8% by weight, preferably between 2% and 7% by weight, or even between 2% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL

The hydrogenated jojoba oil, INCI name Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, is more particularly obtained by catalytic and complete hydrogenation of jojoba oil obtained from Simmondsia chinensis seeds. Complete hydrogenation is understood to mean the production of a compound with an iodine value of less than 2.

The hydrogenated jojoba oil is in the form of a solid, the melting temperature of which is between 67°C and 72°C, more particularly from 68°C to 71°C.

The hydrogenated jojoba oil is composed mainly of saturated monoesters, comprising from 36 to 48 carbon atoms.

It is sold in particular by Vantage Speciality Chemicals under the trade name Desert Whale Jojoba Wax Flakes.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention has a hydrogenated jojoba oil content of between 2% and 12% by weight, more particularly between 3% and 11% by weight, preferably between 3% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

ADDITIONAL WAXES

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional wax, other than sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil.

This or these optional wax(es) may be polar or non-polar.

More particularly, it is recalled that a wax is in general a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (20°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 40°C and less than or equal to 120°C, more particularly less than or equal to 90°C.

Polar waxes

The term “polar hydrocarbon-based wax” means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one oxygen, optionally nitrogen, atom. These compounds thus do not contain any silicon atoms.

More particularly, the additional polar hydrocarbon-based wax, other than the hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax, is chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes comprising an ester function.

According to the invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

Among the polar hydrocarbon-based waxes that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, alone or in mixtures, of:

i) Waxes of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ and R₂ represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and the melting point of which ranges from 40°C to 120°C, preferably from 40°C to 100°C.

In particular, use may be made, as ester wax, of a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl stearate. Such waxes are in particular sold under the names Kester Wax® K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax® K 80 P or Kester Wax® K82H by Koster Keunen. Use may also be made of mixtures of esters of C₁₄-C₁₈ carboxylic acids and of alcohols, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from Koster Keunen, SP Crodamol MS MBAL and Crodamol MS PA from Croda, and Miraceti from Laserson.

ii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R₃-(-OCO-R₄-COO-R₅), in which R₃ and R₅ are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C₄-C₃₀ alkyl group and R₄ represents a linear or branched C₄-C₃₀ aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C₄-C₃₀ aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

iii) Partial or total esters, preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C₁₆-C₃₀ carboxylic acid with glycerol, for instance glyceryl tristearate (INCI name: Tristearin), glyceryl trihydroxystearate (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin), glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: Tribehenin), alone or as a mixture.

iv) Waxes of animal or vegetable origin, other than sunflower wax.

Mention may be made, as examples of suitable waxes, of beeswax, lanolin wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes or laurel wax, which may optionally be refined, and also mixtures thereof.

v) The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or else by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin (for instance lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, myristyl and behenyl alcohols) and vegetable oil, such as olive oil or castor oil.

Mention may more particularly be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil and hydrogenated coconut oil.

As waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil, mention may also be made of the waxes with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Stearyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Behenyl Castor Esters. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names PHYTOWAX® Olive 12 L44, PHYTOWAX® Olive 14 L 48, PHYTOWAX® Olive 16 L 55, PHYTOWAX® Olive 18 L 57, PHYTOWAX® Castor 16 L 64, PHYTOWAX® Castor 18 L 69 and PHYTOWAX® Castor 22 L 73 by SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in patent application FR 2 792 190.

Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the additional polar hydrocarbon-based wax(es) are chosen from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, other than sunflower wax; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, other than hydrogenated jojoba oil, or else by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the additional polar hydrocarbon-based wax(es) are chosen from beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes or laurel wax; from hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil or olive oil, and also mixtures thereof. In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition comprises any, the additional wax(es) are chosen from candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters, hydrogenated olive oil myristyl esters, and mixtures thereof.

Additional non-polar waxes

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any non-polar hydrocarbon-based wax (in other words constituted only of carbon and hydrogen atoms), resulting from the conversion of petroleum, such as, for example, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes (synthetic wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes), alone or as mixtures.

If, however, the composition were to comprise any, their content would not exceed 5% by weight, preferably would not exceed 3% by weight and advantageously would not exceed 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free thereof.

PASTY HYDROCARBON-BASED COMPOUND

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one pasty hydrocarbon-based compound.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty compound” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and including at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a starting melting point of less than 20°C.

The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for the waxes. In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is, however, as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.

The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g. The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from:

- vegetable butters, for instance mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product of which the INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; babassu butter such as the product sold under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, and also orange wax, for example the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen;

- totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance;

- esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, in particular of isostearic acid, for instance Salacos HCIS (V-L), sold by Nisshin Oil;

- esters resulting from the condensation of a preferably saturated, linear or branched, C₆-C₁₀ dicarboxylic acid and of ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, C₆-C₂₀ monocarboxylic acids, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and of a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C₆-C₂₀ fatty acids, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and hydroxystearic acid, notably sold under the reference Softisan® 649 by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2);

- triglycerides of fatty acids which are optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C₁₂-C₁₈; for instance the glycerides of saturated C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES);

- esters of diol dimer, or of polyol, and of diacid dimer, for instance:

* esters of dimer of dilinoleyl alcohol and of dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE);

* esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols, of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

* esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of the dilinoleic acid dimer, such as those sold under the names Risocast-DA-L or Risocast-DA-H by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE).

Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the pasty compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, the esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C₆-C₁₀ dicarboxylic acid and of ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, C₆-C₂₀ monocarboxylic acids, triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C₁₂-C₁₈, fatty acids and also mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, if the composition comprises any, the pasty compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with the INCI names BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 and HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES, BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, PHYTOSTERYL / ISOSTEARYL / CETYL/STEARYL / BEHENYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE, and also mixtures thereof.

If the composition comprises any, their content preferably ranges from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 7% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON-BASED OILS

As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

A “non-volatile oil” denotes water-insoluble fatty compounds which are liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), the vapour pressure of which at 20°C is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure (OECD standard 104).

A “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen, optionally nitrogen, atom. These oils are thus different from silicone oils. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

POLAR HYDROCARBON-BASED OILS

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

A polar oil for the purposes of the invention comprises, in addition to the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom and preferably at least one oxygen atom.

Among the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of the oils more particularly chosen from:

- C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols, preferably monohydroxy alcohols;

- ethers of formula ROR’ or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which formulae, the groups R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C₃-C₁₆ group;

- non-volatile hydrocarbon-based ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon-based group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12;

- mixtures thereof.

C10-C26 alcohols

The alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols. They comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxyl alcohols.

Preferably, said alcohol(s) are chosen from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

Non-volatile ether or carbonate oils

Among the suitable non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, mention may be made of ethers of formula ROR’ or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR’, in which formulae, the groups R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C₃-C₁₆ group.

Preferably, the oil(s) may be chosen from:

- dicaprylyl ether,

- dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and C₁₄-C₁₅ dialkyl carbonate.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils with ester function(s)

The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also comprise at least one oil chosen more particularly from hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon-based group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12. In addition, the ester oil can optionally comprise one or more ether or hydroxyl functions.

Among the suitable ester oils, mention may be made of monoesters and diesters optionally comprising one or two ether groups; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters optionally comprising one to three ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of a diol; esters and polyesters of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid and of a dimer diol and of monoalcohols; vegetable oils, and also mixtures thereof.

* Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic monoesters or diesters comprising more particularly from 12 to 80 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one or two ether groups. Mention may be made, among the compounds of this type, of monoesters or diesters obtained from a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 and preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol, comprising from 2 to 26 and in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12 and preferably at least 16. In addition, the ester can optionally comprise one or two ether groups and optionally one or two hydroxyl groups.

By way of example, mention may be made of 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearylneopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyloctanoate, cetyloctanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyle palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, of caprylic acid and of a coconut-derived alcohol (C₁₂-C₁₈ alcohols), 2-octyldodecyl erucate , oleyl erucate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of optionally hydroxylated esters of a C₂-C₈ mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol. Suitable in particular for the implementation of the invention are the monoesters of a C₂-C₈ carboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated, and the diesters of a C₂-C₈ dicarboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated, such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate or bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.

Mention may also be made of linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic esters of a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, and of diols, in particular glycols, notably of C₂-C₅, of glycerol or of polyglycerol. Mention may be made for example of propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and also mixtures thereof.

* Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters comprising up to 80 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one to three ether groups. Suitable for the invention are the esters obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, C₂-C₄₀, preferably C₄-C₄₀, mono- or polycarboxylic acids, which are optionally hydroxylated, and from C₂-C₄₀, preferably C₃-C₄₀, polyols or monoalcohols; said polyesters optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.

Use may be made, for example, of triacetin and also triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated C₄-C₃₆ fatty acids, more particularly saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₈-C₂₀ fatty acids, such as, for example, triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid; in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, for example such as the products sold under the DUB MCT range by Stearinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triglycerides of C_18-36 acid, such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois), or glyceryl triisostearate.

Mention may also be made of triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate or glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate).

Mention may also be made, by way of example, of oils comprising three ester functions, which are optionally hydroxylated or acetylated, of a C₂-C₈ acid comprising three carboxyl functions, which is optionally hydroxylated, and of a C₂-C₈ monoalcohol. Mention may be made of citric acid esters, such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, tributyl acetylcitrate and likewise tridecyl trimellitate, and also mixtures thereof.

* Tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate).

* Polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as of dilinoleic acid and of 1,4-butanediol. Mention may notably be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA, having the INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer.

* Esters of a dimer diol or of a polyol, and of a mono- and/or dicarboxylic acid. Mention may be made for example of esters of a dimer diol and of a fatty acid and esters of a dimer diol and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid notably of C₈ to C₃₄, notably of C₁₂ to C₂₂, in particular of C₁₆ to C₂₀ and more particularly of C₁₈, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic dimer diols, having the INCI nine Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, for instance those sold by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5^® and DD-DA7^®.

Also suitable are esters derived from the esterification of a polyol, of at least one monocarboxylic acid and of at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in patent US 7 317 068. The polyol comprises more particularly 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, it preferably being pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as preferably stearic acid, isostearic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid or combinations thereof; as regards the aromatic, unsaturated or saturated, linear or branched dicarboxylic acid, it comprises more particularly 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably adipic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of pentaerythrityl isostearate/caprate/caprylate/adipate, sold in particular under the name Crodamol L by Croda, pentaerythrityl adipate/caprate/caprylate/heptanoate sold under the name Lexfeel 700 EX-LO MB by Inolex.

* vegetable oils such as for example castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, Rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, maize oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood nut oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a non-hydroxylated vegetable oil is chosen, and even more advantageously chosen from olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also their mixtures.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from:

- hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, preferably non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, in particular those which have just been listed;

- optionally hydroxylated ester oils comprising from 1 to 4 ester functions, preferably 3 or 4 ester functions, of which at least one of them, which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms;

- mixtures thereof.

As particularly advantageous oils, mention may be made of non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, caprylic/capric triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

More particularly, the content of polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) ranges from 20% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, more particularly from 30% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NON-POLAR, NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON-BASED OILS

The term “non-polar oil” is intended to mean, for the purposes of the present invention, an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

More particularly, the non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, for instance:

- liquid paraffin,

- squalane, in particular of vegetable origin,

- isoeicosane,

- mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly of C₁₅-C₂₈, such as the mixtures of which the INCI names are, for example, the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,

- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers,

- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by Nippon Oil & Fats,

- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for instance non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by Ineos, Dekanex by IMCD,

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the non-polar non-volatile oil is chosen from oils of vegetable origin.

If the composition comprises any, the content of non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) ranges from 0.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition does not comprise any non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s).

ADDITIONAL OILS

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional oil chosen from non-volatile or volatile silicone oils, or from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

The term “volatile oil” denotes an oil having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging to 1300 Pa.

SILICONE OILS

The term “silicone oil” denotes an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and notably containing Si-O groups.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises limited contents of volatile or non-volatile silicone oils.

Mention may in particular be made, as examples of volatile silicone oils, of dimethicones with a viscosity of less than 5 cSt (5 x 10^-3 mm²/s, measured in particular according to the ASTM D-445 standard), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

As regards the non-volatile silicone oils, the latter may be non-phenyl silicone oils, or phenyl silicone oils optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.

The term “phenyl(ated)” specifies that said oil includes, in its structure, at least one phenyl radical.

The term "dimethicone fragment" denotes a divalent siloxane group, the silicon atom of which bears two methyl radicals, this group not being located at an or at the ends of the molecule. It may be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH₃)₂-O)-.

Preferably, the silicones do not comprise a C₂-C₃ alkylene oxide group or a glycerolated group.

Among the non-volatile non-phenyl silicones, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: DIMETHICONE), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C₂-C₂₄ alkyl group, and mixtures thereof.

Among the non-volatile phenyl silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

With regard to the non-volatile phenyl silicone oils with no dimethicone fragment(s), mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, alone or as mixtures.

More particularly, if the composition comprises any, the content of silicone oil(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 2 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition is preferably free thereof.

VOLATILE HYDROCARBON-BASED OILS

Among the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which are preferably non-polar mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and in particular:

- branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes, such as C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar, which are sold by Exxon Mobil,

- linear alkanes, preferably for instance the mixture of n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight Silk, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, if the composition comprises any, the content of volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition is preferably free thereof.

COLORANTS

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one colorant which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

The colorant can be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

PIGMENTS

The term “pigments” means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour the resulting composition and/or deposit.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

The term “mineral pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder or copper powder. The following inorganic pigments can also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, ZrO₂ as a mixture with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, ZnS.

The size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm. According to one particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm. The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed on the basis of the conventional Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from the submicronic to multimicronic; it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.

In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. Examples that may be mentioned more particularly include titanium dioxides and iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.

As mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of pearlescent agents.

The term “pearlescent agents” should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

The pearlescent agents may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.

Examples of pearlescent agents that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

The pearlescent agents can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.

Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect different from a simple conventional colouring effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect such as produced by conventional colorants, for instance monochromatic pigments.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “stabilized” means lacking the effect of variability of the colour with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change.

For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, notably interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated by at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then convey them. The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

For the purposes of the invention, the “coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

The surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. According to one variant, the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments. The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating may be produced, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating may be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578 266.

The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

According to one particular embodiment, the colorant is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

“Organic pigment” means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

The pigment can also be a lake.

The term “lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate and aluminium.

Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

FAT-SOLUBLE DYES

For the purposes of the invention, the term “fat-soluble dye” means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with the oily phase, and which is capable of imparting colour.

As fat-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made, for instance, of the fat-soluble dyes DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red and Sudan brown.

As illustrations of natural fat-soluble dyes, mention may be made particularly of carotenes, for instance β-carotene, α-carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, quinazine green SS) and chlorophylls.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight, notably from 1% to 15% by weight and even more particularly from 3% to 15% by weight of colorant(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition can also be free of colorant(s).

Water

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water. Preferably, the water content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition comprises any, does not exceed 1% by weight, notably does not exceed 0.5% by weight and even more particularly does not exceed 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS

In the context of the present invention, the composition can additionally contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those generally used in the cosmetics field, in particular for makeup and/or care compositions for the skin and the lips.

Examples that may be mentioned include lipophilic thickeners, such as silicas, organic gelling agents (organogelators), clays, fillers, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, solvents, active agents, fragrances, and the like.

These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.

These optional adjuvants may be present in a content which may range up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature.

The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name.

The amounts indicated are weight percentages of starting materials, unless otherwise mentioned.

EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1

The following composition, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, was prepared:

Ingredients	Composition 1
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Masester E7000 Medium Chain Triglycerides, sold by USIM MAS)	q.s. for 100
PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV); sold by Croda)	30
BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (Softisan 649, sold by CREMER OLEO	15
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (Sunflower Wax Double Refined, sold by Koster Keunen)	5.1
EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX (820 Light Special Candelilla Real, sold by Multiceras)	1.0
HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (sold by Desert Whale)	3.9
C15-19 Alkane (Emogreen L15, sold by SEPPIC)	4.5
Red 6	4.6
Red 7	2.9
Iron oxides	1.9
Fragrance, antioxidant	qs

Preparation process:

1. The pigments are ground in the portion of oil(s) required for good dispersion, using a three-roll mill or a ball mill.

2. The waxes, the pasty compound and the remainder of the oils are heated to 98°C in a suitable container, so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

3. The pigment/oil(s) mixture from the first step is added to the mixture from the previous step, with stirring.

4. Once the mixture is well homogenized, the composition is poured into moulds preheated to 42°C.

5. After waiting for the surface to set, the surface is levelled off and the moulds are placed in the freezer between -25°C and -20°C until the mould comes to a temperature of 4°C.

6. The sticks are removed from the moulds.

Evaluation of the compositions:

A stick of homogeneous composition, without defects, is obtained.

Its hardness, measured according to the protocol detailed in the description, is
100 Nm^-1.

The composition is easy and pleasant to apply, with good slip. The deposit obtained is comfortable and creamy, with good coverage, and provides a satin finish on the lips. The wear property and resistance to migration are satisfactory.

EXAMPLE 2

The following composition, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, was prepared:

Ingredients	Composition 2
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (Masester E7000 Medium Chain Triglycerides, sold by USIM MAS)	24.3
PRUNUS ARMENIACA (APRICOT) KERNEL OIL (Apricot kernel oil; sold by Henry Lamotte Oils)	10
PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV); sold by Croda)	30
BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (Softisan 649, sold by Cremer Oleo)	15
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (Sunflower Wax Double Refined, sold by Koster Keunen)	7.1
EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX (820 Light Special Candelilla Real, sold by Multiceras)	1.8
HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (sold by Desert Whale)	1.8
RED 7	3.7
RED 28 LAKE	3.4
IRON OXIDES	2.5
TITANIUM DIOXIDE	0.4

Preparation process:

1. The pigments are ground in the portion of oil(s) required for good dispersion, using a three-roll mill or a ball mill.

2. The waxes, the pasty compound and the remainder of the oils are heated to 98°C in a suitable container, so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

3. The pigments are added to the mixture from the previous step, with stirring.

4. Once the mixture is well homogenized, the composition is poured into moulds preheated to 42°C.

6. After waiting for the surface to set, the surface is levelled off and the moulds are placed in the freezer between -25°C and -20°C until the mould comes to a temperature of 4°C.

7. The sticks are removed from the moulds.

Evaluation of the compositions:

A stick of homogeneous composition, without defects, is obtained.

Its hardness, measured according to the protocol detailed in the description, is 110.3 Nm^-1.

The composition is easy and pleasant to apply, with good gliding. The deposit obtained is comfortable and creamy, with good coverage, and provides a satin finish on the lips. The wear property and resistance to migration are satisfactory.

EXAMPLE 3

The following compositions, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, were prepared:

Ingredients	Composition 3 Invention	Composition C1 comparative
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (Masester E7000 Medium Chain Triglycerides, sold by USIM MAS)	7.5	7.5
BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (Softisan 649, sold by Cremer Oleo)	15.0	15.0
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (Sunflower Wax Double Refined, sold by Koster Keunen)	10.0	10.0
EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX (820 Light Special Candelilla Real, sold by Multiceras)	1.5	3.0
HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (sold by Desert Whale)	1.5	-
PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV); sold by Croda)	qsp 100	qsp 100
OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL (sold by Aarhuskarlshamn)	5,0	5,0
Antioxydant	qs	qs
YELLOW 6 LAKE	3,2	3,2
RED 7	1,4	1,4
RED 28 LAKE	5,8	5,8

Preparation process:

1. The pigments are ground in the portion of oil(s) required for good dispersion, using a three-roll mill or a ball mill.

2. The waxes, the pasty compound and the remainder of the oils are heated to 98°C in a suitable container, so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

3. The pigments are added to the mixture from the previous step, with stirring.

4. Once the mixture is well homogenized, the composition is poured into moulds preheated to 42°C.

6. After waiting for the surface to set, the surface is levelled off and the moulds are placed in the freezer between -25°C and -20°C until the mould comes to a temperature of 4°C.

7. The sticks are removed from the moulds.

Evaluation of the compositions:

	Composition 3	Composition C1
Hardness (N.m -1 )	159 Nm-1	167 Nm-1
Aspect of the stick	Sticks of homogeneous composition, without defects
Application / depositt	Easy application with a satisfying gliding effect, a good creamy sensation. The deposit is homogeneous, not very sticky and comfortable	Application remains easy even with a lower gliding effect, and the creamy sensation is less important. The deposit is homogeneous but less comfortable than composition 3.

Claims (21)

1. Solid cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one waxy system comprising at least sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil:
   - the sunflower wax content representing 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
   - the hydrogenated jojoba oil content representing 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
   - the sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil representing at least 80% by weight, preferably more than 80% by weight of the waxy system,
   - the total content of waxes being between 7% and 16% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the sunflower wax content ranges from 1.5% to 8% by weight, preferably between 2% and 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of hydrogenated jojoba oil ranges from 2% to 12% by weight, preferably between 3% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the jojoba oil/sunflower wax weight ratio ranges from 0.15 to 7.5, preferably from 0.15 to 5.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sunflower wax represents between 20% and 95% by weight of the waxy system and the hydrogenated jojoba oil represents between 5% and 80% by weight of the waxy system.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional polar hydrocarbon-based wax, different from the hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax, more particularly chosen from hydrocarbon-based waxes comprising at least one ester function, and in particular from, alone or in mixtures:
   i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and the melting point of which ranges from 40°C to 120°C,
   ii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid, of general formula
   R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group which may optionally contain one or more unsaturations,
   iii) partial or total esters, preferably total esters, of a saturated C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol,
   iv) waxes of animal or vegetable origin,
   v) waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils.
7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional wax is chosen from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, other than sunflower wax; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils other than hydrogenated jojoba oil; and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax; from hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it may optionally comprise at least one non-polar hydrocarbon-based wax derived from the conversion of petroleum, at a content not exceeding 2% by weight, preferably not exceeding 1% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is polar, more particularly chosen from:
   - C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols;
   - ethers of formula ROR’ or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR’, in which formulae, the groups R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon-based group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C16 group;
   - non-volatile hydrocarbon-based ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon-based group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12,
   - mixtures thereof;
   and preferably from:
   - hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, preferably non-hydroxylated vegetable oils;
   - optionally hydroxylated ester oils comprising from 1 to 4 ester functions, of which at least one of them, which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms;
   - mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is non-polar, more particularly chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin such as for example:
    - liquid paraffin,
    - vegetable squalane,
    - isoeicosane,
    - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons,
    - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes; hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes,
    - and mixtures thereof;
    preferably the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from oils of vegetable origin.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) ranges from 20% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil(s), if the composition comprises any, is from 0.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, at a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition is free thereof.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one non-polar volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, at a content ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition is free thereof.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon-based compound chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, the esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C₆-C₁₀ dicarboxylic acid and of ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, C₆-C₂₀ monocarboxylic acids, triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty acids, esters of dimer diol or of polyol and of dimer diacid, and also mixtures thereof.
16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of pasty compound, if the composition comprises any, ranges from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 7% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one colorant chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
18. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one colorant, more particularly chosen from pigments; the content of colorant(s) represents from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, and even more particularly 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises water at a content not exceeding 2% by weight, preferably not exceeding 1% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick, in particular having a hardness of between 90 and 220 N.m^-1, preferably between 90 and 160 Nm^-1.
21. Method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, which consists in applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.