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WO2024083001A1 - Steady-state double-layer toner and preparation method therefor - Google Patents

Steady-state double-layer toner and preparation method therefor Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024083001A1
WO2024083001A1 PCT/CN2023/123793 CN2023123793W WO2024083001A1 WO 2024083001 A1 WO2024083001 A1 WO 2024083001A1 CN 2023123793 W CN2023123793 W CN 2023123793W WO 2024083001 A1 WO2024083001 A1 WO 2024083001A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
phase
double
layer
mass
parts
Prior art date
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PCT/CN2023/123793
Other languages
French (fr)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
倪向梅
冯春波
康静
金日昇
Original Assignee
上海家化联合股份有限公司
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Publication of WO2024083001A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024083001A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a lotion with a double-layer appearance.
  • the invention also relates to a preparation method of the double-layer lotion.
  • Ordinary lotions are single-layer type.
  • One is a single-layer water-based lotion, which is usually transparent or translucent in appearance. It only contains water-soluble basic moisturizing ingredients and does not contain oil. It can only meet basic moisturizing needs and cannot provide long-lasting moisturizing and nourishing effects on the skin.
  • Another type of single-layer lotion contains both oil and emulsifiers, and forms a semi-milky to milky appearance through the emulsification process. Its moisturizing and nourishing effect is better than that of single-layer water-based lotions.
  • this type of milky white lotion often has problems such as oil precipitation and uneven milky white bands due to the enlargement of emulsified particles. It is often necessary to increase the amount of emulsifier or compound the suspension stabilizer, which may cause stickiness and irritation, affecting the user experience.
  • lotion products with new appearance characteristics have also appeared on the market, such as double-layer dosage forms such as oil-on-top and water-off, oil droplet suspension, and emulsion-on-top and water-off.
  • double-layer dosage forms such as oil-on-top and water-off, oil droplet suspension, and emulsion-on-top and water-off.
  • inulin lauryl carbamate can achieve the preparation of this double-layer lotion with the appearance of milk on top and water on the bottom.
  • the use of only a single inulin lauryl carbamate can achieve the stability of the double-layer lotion at 25°C to 48°C for more than 2 months, and slight oil floating will occur at 4°C for only 3 months.
  • inulin lauryl carbamate is compounded with a small amount of non-ionic emulsifier containing PEG or ester or polyether structure (such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate-20, etc.), it can help the formula achieve stability in a low temperature (0-10°C) environment, and meet the requirements of 3 months of stability without oil at 0-48°C.
  • this double-layer lotion After standing for 3 minutes to 3 hours, this double-layer lotion has an emulsion phase on the upper layer and a water phase on the lower layer. After shaking, it becomes a milky white uniform liquid. After standing for another 3 minutes to 3 hours, the stratification process will be completed again, and the stratification state of milk on top and water on the bottom will be presented again.
  • the present invention unexpectedly discovered that the use of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil alone can also achieve the preparation of a double-layer lotion with milk-like upper and moisturizing properties.
  • PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is an ethoxylate of hydrogenated castor oil, also known as polyoxyethylene 40 hydrogenated castor oil. It is a white to yellow viscous liquid or paste at room temperature and is an excellent non-ionic solubilizer and emulsifier. PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil contains two parts, hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups, with an HLB value between 13 and 14. It has a good solubilizing effect on some active ingredients that are not easily soluble in water. In the pharmaceutical industry, it is mainly used for the solubilization of vitamins. It can also play a good solubilizing role for certain drugs and aromatic oils for oral and topical applications.
  • PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is used as a solubilizer, compounded with litsea cubeba essential oil and sweet orange essential oil to finally obtain a disinfectant hand sanitizer containing natural plant essential oils.
  • the invention patent CN 106176567 A provides a double-layer skin care lotion and a preparation method thereof.
  • PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is also used, it is not used alone. Sodium myristoyl glutamate and PPG-25-laureth-25 are also compounded as emulsifiers.
  • the present invention unexpectedly found that when PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil/grease meets a certain ratio, only a single PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is needed to prepare a double-layer lotion, which is more streamlined and has a lower manufacturing cost.
  • the present invention also found that other hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates with similar structures, such as PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, with an HLB value of 14-15, can also be used to prepare a double-layer lotion with this appearance feature.
  • the present invention also finds that ethoxylated or propoxylated modified esters and ethers of water-in-oil emulsifiers having a PEG or PPG structure, such as PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polysorbate-20 (PEG-20 sorbitan laurate), etc., can also be used to prepare double-layer lotions.
  • PEG or PPG structure such as PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polysorbate-20 (PEG-20 sorbitan laurate), etc.
  • PEG-20 sorbitan laurate polysorbate-20
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a double-layer lotion with the appearance of milk on top and water on the bottom.
  • the double-layer lotion is a stable double-layer dosage form with a stable and controllable stratification time and a stable water content of the milk layer.
  • the present invention also provides a preparation method of the double-layer lotion.
  • the present invention provides a stable double-layer lotion comprising:
  • emulsifier is an oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value between 13 and 17 and containing or not containing ethoxylated or propoxylated structurally modified esters or ethers;
  • the weight ratio of the emulsifier to the oil is 1:15 to 1:33;
  • the upper layer of the double-layer lotion is the emulsion phase, and the lower layer is the water phase;
  • the visual stratification time of the double-layer lotion is 5 minutes to 4 hours.
  • the emulsifier in the two-layer lotion of the present invention contains an ethoxylate of hydrogenated castor oil.
  • the emulsifier in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is selected from: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polysorbate-20, sucrose laurate or a combination thereof.
  • the oil in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is a plant oil, liquid ester, synthetic oil, silicone oil, mineral oil or a combination thereof that is liquid at room temperature.
  • the oil is selected from: sunflower seed oil, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, silicone oil (such as polydimethylsiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), squalane, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, mineral oil or a combination thereof.
  • the humectant in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is a polyol selected from glycerin, 1,3-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methyl propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin or a combination thereof.
  • the double-layer lotion of the present invention further comprises one or a combination of two or more water-soluble, fat-soluble, or amphiphilic cosmetic active substances.
  • the cosmetic active substance is selected from: vitamins, vitamin A or its derivatives, vitamin B or its derivatives, vitamin C or its derivatives, folic acid or its derivatives, vitamin D or its derivatives, vitamin E or its derivatives, carotenoids or carotene, proteins, amino acids, polypeptides, carnosine and decarboxylated carnosine, collagen and hydrolyzed collagen, ferulic acid, astaxanthin, ergothioneine, coenzymes, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, sugar or polysaccharide biomacromolecules, salicylic acid and its derivatives, tranexamic acid, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, bisabolol, lactobacillus and yeast fermentation broth, licorice-derived extracts, dipotassium gly
  • the present invention provides a method for preparing a double-layer lotion, comprising the following steps:
  • the steps (a), (b) and (c) are carried out at 70-90°C.
  • FIG1 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 after being prepared and left to stand for 8 hours.
  • FIG2 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 after being prepared and left to stand for 3 to 25 minutes.
  • FIG3 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 after being left to stand for 30 minutes to 1 hour and 20 minutes.
  • FIG4 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 left to stand for 1.5 hours to 3.5 hours.
  • FIG5 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 left to stand for 4 hours to 10-12 hours.
  • FIG6 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 left to stand for 24-26 hours to 1 week.
  • the present invention provides a double-layer lotion, which is prepared by using an oil-in-water emulsifier (e.g., PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) with an HLB value between 13 and 17, which contains or does not contain ethoxylated (PEG) or propoxylated (PPG) structure-modified esters or ethers.
  • an oil-in-water emulsifier e.g., PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
  • HLB value between 13 and 17
  • PEG ethoxylated
  • PPG propoxylated
  • the double-layer stable lotion of the present invention has excellent skin feel of moisturizing, being light and easy to absorb, and having a water-oil balance, and is favored by consumers.
  • the stable double-layer lotion of the present invention may contain various liquid oils and fats acceptable in the cosmetics field.
  • oil means one or more hydrophobic compounds having a melting point below 30°C.
  • Suitable examples of compounds that can be used as the oil component of the double-layer type lotion of the present invention include: vegetable oils, liquid esters (glycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids), synthetic oils, silicone oils, mineral oils, etc.
  • Non-limiting examples include, but are not limited to: sunflower seed oil, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, silicone oil (such as polydimethylsiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), squalane, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate and mineral oil, etc.
  • sunflower seed oil isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, silicone oil (such as polydimethylsiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), squalane, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate and
  • the oil contained in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is selected from: sunflower seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane, mineral oil or any combination thereof.
  • the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 5-20% by weight of fat. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 5-15% by weight of fat. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 8-15% by weight of fat.
  • the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 8-10% by weight of oil. In other embodiments, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 10-12% by weight of oil.
  • An “emulsifier” is an additive that stabilizes a mixture of two or more liquids that are usually immiscible.
  • the present invention uses an oil-in-water emulsifier of an ester or ether type with or without ethoxylated (PEG) or propoxylated (PPG) structure modification, and the HLB value of such emulsifier is between 13 and 17.
  • PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is used alone to prepare a double-layer lotion with an upper emulsion and a lower watering agent.
  • PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is an ethoxylate of hydrogenated castor oil, also known as polyoxyethylene 40 hydrogenated castor oil. It is a white to yellow viscous liquid or paste at room temperature and is an excellent non-ionic solubilizer and emulsifier.
  • PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil contains two parts, hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups. HLB The value is between 13 and 14.
  • PEG-n hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates with a similar structure to PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and an HLB value between 13-17
  • PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is used alone to prepare a double-layer lotion with an upper emulsion and a lower water content.
  • PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is used alone as an emulsifier, a stable double-layer lotion can also be prepared.
  • PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil has a similar structure to PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. Both are ethoxylates of hydrogenated castor oil and are commonly used in the formulation development of cosmetics.
  • a stable double-layer lotion can be prepared by using PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil as an emulsifier. After standing, the upper layer of the double-layer lotion is an emulsion phase and the lower layer is an aqueous phase. After being shaken, it becomes a uniform milky white liquid, which is more skin-friendly when applied. At the same time, after standing again (for example, 3 minutes to 3 hours), the double-layer lotion will restore the layered appearance of upper emulsion and lower water, which has a novel and high-value visual feature.
  • water-in-oil emulsifiers containing or not containing ethoxylated (PEG) or propoxylated (PPG) structure-modified esters or ethers are used, and the HLB value of such emulsifiers is between 13 and 17.
  • PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polysorbate-20 (PEG-20 sorbitan laurate), sucrose laurate or a combination thereof are used to prepare a double-layer cosmetic.
  • a double-layer cosmetic is prepared by combining other water-in-water oil-emulsifiers with HLB values between 13 and 17 that may or may not contain ethoxylated (PEG) or propoxylated (PPG) structure-modified esters or ethers with PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.
  • PEG ethoxylated
  • PPG propoxylated
  • the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-1% by weight of an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.8% by weight of an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.3-0.8% by weight of an emulsifier.
  • the weight ratio of the emulsifier to the oil in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is 1:15 to 1:33.
  • Moisturizers are a type of cosmetic raw material that can increase or maintain moisture in the upper layer of the skin over a wide relative humidity range and for a long period of time. These raw materials have low volatility, can retain moisture, and are absorbed on the skin surface. They are a type of skin conditioner.
  • the humectant used in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is a polyol.
  • the humectant can be selected from: glycerol, 1,3-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methyl propanediol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin or any combination thereof.
  • the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 1-10% by weight of a moisturizer. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 2-8% by weight of a moisturizer. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 2-5% by weight of a moisturizer. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 5-8% by weight of a moisturizer.
  • the double-layer lotion of the present invention may contain other ingredients.
  • the double-layer lotion of the present application may contain water-soluble, fat-soluble, or amphiphilic cosmetic active substances.
  • the cosmetic active substance is selected from one or more combinations of ingredients with moisturizing, nourishing, soothing, acne removal, oil control, freckle removal and whitening, exfoliation, sun protection, firming, anti-wrinkle, and repair effects.
  • the cosmetic active substance is selected from one or more combinations of vitamins, vitamin A or its derivatives, vitamin B or its derivatives, vitamin C or its derivatives, folic acid or its derivatives, vitamin D or its derivatives, vitamin E or its derivatives, carotenoids or carotene, proteins, amino acids, polypeptides, carnosine and decarboxylated carnosine, collagen and hydrolyzed collagen, ferulic acid, astaxanthin, ergothioneine, coenzymes, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, sugar or polysaccharide biomacromolecules, salicylic acid and its derivatives, tranexamic acid, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, bisabolol,
  • the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.5 wt % of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.2 wt % of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.
  • the two-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.5 wt % of the bifid yeast fermentation lysate filtrate. In a preferred embodiment, the two-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.2-0.5 wt % of the bifid yeast fermentation lysate filtrate.
  • the present invention also provides a method for preparing a stable double-layer lotion.
  • the double-layer lotion can be prepared according to the following method:
  • the obtained two-layer lotion is left to stand for 5 minutes to 4 hours to obtain a two-layer lotion after first stratification, wherein the upper layer is a white emulsion phase and the lower layer is an aqueous phase.
  • the layered lotion is shaken and then allowed to stand again.
  • the layers can be separated again after 5 minutes to 4 hours, presenting an appearance of an upper layer of the emulsion phase and a lower layer of the water phase.
  • the above steps (a), (b) and (c) are carried out at 70-90°C. In a more preferred embodiment, the above steps (a), (b) and (c) are carried out at 80-90°C.
  • the homogenization in step (c) is carried out at 2000-5000 rpm. In a preferred embodiment, the homogenization in step (c) is carried out at 3000-5000 rpm. In a more preferred embodiment, the homogenization in step (c) is carried out at 5000 rpm.
  • step (c) the homogenization in step (c) is maintained for 10-20 minutes.
  • deionized water, polyols, and emulsifiers are mixed uniformly at room temperature to 90°C as the first phase, and the oil is kept at room temperature to 90°C as the second phase.
  • the second phase is added to the first phase at room temperature to 90°C, homogenized at 2000-5000 rpm, maintained for 10-20 minutes, cooled to room temperature to 45°C, and optional other ingredients are added, stirred uniformly, and the preparation is completed and allowed to stand for use.
  • the core of the double-layer lotion of the present invention is to achieve a double-layer stable state, and its stable state is mainly manifested in the following four aspects:
  • the advantage is that consumers can observe visible stratification in a relatively short time of about 5 minutes, which not only satisfies consumers' interest in product experience, but also satisfies consumers' convenience of use.
  • the whole process from shaking to pouring on the hands basically takes about ten seconds to one minute, so about 5 minutes is enough, and it also ensures that the product poured out after each shaking is uniform and consistent, and the upper and lower layers will not be inconsistent when pouring due to too fast stratification, which may cause differences in skin feel and efficacy.
  • the emulsion phase gradually rises and the water phase layer gradually becomes higher.
  • the water phase has a semi-permeable appearance, and the interface between the emulsion phase and the water phase gradually changes from blurred to clear.
  • This process is the process of gradual separation of the emulsion phase and the water phase, and the initial stratification is basically completed.
  • the emulsion phase and the water phase are still in the equilibrium process of phase separation, which is manifested in that the height of the emulsion phase is decreasing and the water phase is becoming more transparent. This process is the equilibrium stage of stratification.
  • the height of the emulsion phase is basically close, and the transparency of the water phase is basically the same. Consumers understand that the stratification process is basically completed. Therefore, 4 to 7-8 hours can be regarded as the completion stage of the visual stratification process.
  • this visualized layering time is not only controllable, but also very consistent with consumers' usage habits.
  • consumers use the product every morning and evening, they can ensure that they can observe the change process of the steady-state double-layer lotion restoring the layers after shaking, and they can shake it again when they use it again; for a small number of consumers, if they need to use the product three times a day, morning, noon and evening, then a 4-hour layering time can also meet the above requirements.
  • the height of the emulsion phase When left standing for 10-12 hours, or even further for 24-26 hours, the height of the emulsion phase only decreases very slightly during this period, which is basically unobservable by consumers in daily use; when the standing time is further extended from 24-26 hours, the height of the emulsion phase remains unchanged, indicating that after 24-26 hours, the double-layer lotion reaches a final stable state.
  • the upper emulsion phase of the double-layer lotion that reaches the final stable state is called "snow top” because it has the appearance of snow on the top of a mountain.
  • the upper emulsion phase and the lower water phase will quickly merge into one, and after standing, they will quickly show the stratification characteristics.
  • the entire visual dynamic stratification process is completed after 5 minutes to 4 hours.
  • the double-layer lotion of the present invention has controllable visual stratification time and controllable stable state standing time, and is a stable double-layer lotion.
  • the stable double-layer lotion of the present invention has a fixed ratio of emulsion and water layers, and the water content of the upper emulsion phase of the stable double-layer lotion is also relatively stable.
  • the double-layer stable lotion of the present invention has excellent skin feel of moisturizing, being light and easy to absorb, and having a water-oil balance, and is favored by consumers.
  • PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil has a similar structure to PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. Both are ethoxylates of hydrogenated castor oil and are commonly used in the formulation development of cosmetics. Among them, the HLB value of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is 13-14, while the HLB value of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is 14-15.
  • the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, and maintained for 12 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is formed for standby use.
  • 83.5 parts by weight of deionized water, 2 parts by weight of glycerin, 3 parts by weight of 1,3-propylene glycol, and 0.5 parts by weight of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are uniformly mixed at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 2 parts by weight of sunflower seed oil, 3 parts by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 4 parts by weight of squalane, 1 part by weight of polydimethylsiloxane, and 1 part by weight of mineral oil are heated to 75-80° C.
  • the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, and maintained for 15 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is obtained for standby use.
  • 83.2 parts by mass of deionized water, 1 part by mass of glycerin, 2 parts by mass of butylene glycol, 2 parts by mass of 1,3-propylene glycol, and 0.8 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are uniformly mixed at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 2 parts by mass of sunflower seed oil, 3 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3 parts by mass of squalane, 1 part by mass of polydimethylsiloxane, and 2 parts by mass of mineral oil are heated to 75-80° C.
  • the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 3500 rpm, and maintained for 20 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
  • the oil can be one or more combinations of different types of oils including vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils, alkanes, silicone oils and mineral oils.
  • Example 23 Taking the double-layer lotion obtained in Example 23 as an example, 180 ml of the double-layer lotion was put into a colorless transparent PET wide-mouth bottle, shaken up and down 10 times to fully mix, and then allowed to stand. The stratification state was observed and photographed at different time points, as shown in Figures 2 to 6.
  • the process of the double-layer lotion restoring stratification after being shaken is a dynamic process. Visible stratification can be observed after standing for 5 minutes, which not only satisfies the fun of the consumer experience, but also satisfies the convenience of use of consumers.
  • the visual stratification time of the double-layer lotion of the present invention is between 5 minutes and 4 hours.
  • Example 21 Based on Example 21, other ingredients such as active ingredients, fragrances, and preservatives such as phenoxyethanol were added to prepare samples for consumer use test evaluation.
  • 82.25 parts by mass of deionized water, 2 parts by mass of glycerin, 3 parts by mass of butylene glycol, and 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 3 parts by mass of sunflower seed oil, 2 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 4 parts by mass of squalane, and 2 parts by mass of polydimethylsiloxane are heated to 75-80° C.
  • the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 12 minutes, cooled to room temperature to 45° C., 0.15 parts by mass of dipotassium glycyrrhizate, 0.5 parts by mass of bifid yeast fermentation product lysate, 0.1 parts by mass of bisabolol, 0.1 parts by mass of essence, and 0.4 parts by mass of phenoxyethanol are added, homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 5 minutes, and a uniform milky white liquid is obtained; after the preparation is completed, it is allowed to stand until a double-layer lotion is used.
  • the oil-soluble bisabolol and essence are emulsified in the upper emulsion phase of the double-layer lotion, while the water-soluble dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and bifid yeast fermentation product lysate are in the lower water phase of the double-layer lotion; since the preservative phenoxyethanol has a certain distribution coefficient in the oil-water phase, part of it is in the emulsion phase and part in the water phase.
  • the double-layer lotion is shaken again, it will become a uniform milky white liquid again. These ingredients are evenly mixed in the milky white lotion.
  • consumers use the double-layer lotion it can help soothe and repair the skin, giving them a pleasant experience.
  • Test population Female consumers aged 25 to 35
  • the double-layer lotion of the present invention is superior to the commercially available L'Oreal essence water in terms of the degree of liking the application feeling, the overall degree of liking the skin feeling, the skin comfort, the skin softness and the skin moisturizing effect. It can be seen that the double-layer lotion of the present invention has a better skin feel than the L'Oreal essence water and is more popular with consumers.
  • the full ingredients of the commercially available L'Oreal essence water include the following: water, hydrogenated polydecene, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, safflower seed oil, 1,2-hexanediol, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, tromethamine, adenosine, capryloyl salicylic acid, sodium hyaluronate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, ethylhexylglycerin, sodium cocoether sulfate, tocopherol (vitamin E), caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, and fragrance.
  • the oil components in the formula of L'Oreal essence water partially overlap with the double-layer lotion of the present invention
  • the emulsifiers PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, polysorbate 20, etc. used in the double-layer lotion of the present invention are not the formula technologies implemented by commercially available products. Therefore, the technical implementation methods of the present invention and the commercially available L'Oreal essence water are different.

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Abstract

A steady-state double-layer toner, comprising: 5-20 wt% of a grease; 0.1-1 wt% of an emulsifier, which is an ester or ether oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value of 13 to 17 and containing or not containing a structural modification via ethoxylation or propoxylation; 1-10 wt% of a humectant; and water, wherein the weight ratio of the emulsifier to the grease is 1:15 to 1:33; the upper layer of the double-layer toner is an emulsion phase, and the lower layer thereof is a water phase; and the visual layering time of the double-layer toner is 5 minutes to 4 hours. The present invention further relates to a preparation method for the steady-state double-layer toner.

Description

稳态双层型化妆水及其制备方法Stable double-layer lotion and preparation method thereof 技术领域Technical Field
本发明涉及化妆品领域,具体涉及一种呈现双层外观特点的化妆水,本发明还涉及这种双层化妆水的制备方法。The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a lotion with a double-layer appearance. The invention also relates to a preparation method of the double-layer lotion.
背景技术Background technique
普通的化妆水是单层型的。一种是单层水剂型,通常为透明或半透明外观,仅含有水溶性的基础保湿成分,不含油脂,仅能够满足基础保湿,并不能给肌肤带来长效的保湿滋润效果。另一种单层化妆水中同时含有油脂和乳化剂,通过乳化过程形成半乳白至乳白色的外观,其保湿滋润效果优于单层水剂型的化妆水,但是这类乳白色的化妆水常常由于乳化颗粒变大导致出现油脂析出、乳白色带不均匀等问题,往往需要增加乳化剂的用量或者复配悬浮稳定剂,这样就会引起粘腻和刺激的可能,影响使用体验。Ordinary lotions are single-layer type. One is a single-layer water-based lotion, which is usually transparent or translucent in appearance. It only contains water-soluble basic moisturizing ingredients and does not contain oil. It can only meet basic moisturizing needs and cannot provide long-lasting moisturizing and nourishing effects on the skin. Another type of single-layer lotion contains both oil and emulsifiers, and forms a semi-milky to milky appearance through the emulsification process. Its moisturizing and nourishing effect is better than that of single-layer water-based lotions. However, this type of milky white lotion often has problems such as oil precipitation and uneven milky white bands due to the enlargement of emulsified particles. It is often necessary to increase the amount of emulsifier or compound the suspension stabilizer, which may cause stickiness and irritation, affecting the user experience.
随着化妆品行业的发展和技术进步,除了护肤功效之外,市场上也出现了一些具有新型外观特点的化妆水产品,如上油下水、油滴悬浮、上乳下水等双层剂型,这些化妆水具有新颖、高颜值的视觉特点,吸引消费者去购买和体验。With the development of the cosmetics industry and technological advancement, in addition to skin care effects, some lotion products with new appearance characteristics have also appeared on the market, such as double-layer dosage forms such as oil-on-top and water-off, oil droplet suspension, and emulsion-on-top and water-off. These lotions have novel and high-value visual characteristics, attracting consumers to buy and experience them.
我们已经发现,利用菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯可以实现制备这种上乳下水外观的双层化妆水。当菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯/油脂满足一定比例,仅使用单一的菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯就可以实现双层化妆水在25℃至48℃环境下2个月以上稳定,仅4℃ 3个月时会出现轻微漂油。同时我们也发现,当菊粉月桂基氨基甲酸酯复配少量的含PEG或酯类或聚醚结构的非离子乳化剂(如PEG-40氢化蓖麻油,聚山梨醇酯-20等),就可以帮助配方实现在低温(0-10℃)环境下的稳定性,满足0-48℃环境下3个月稳定不出油。这种双层化妆水在静置3分钟至3小时后,上层为乳液相下层为水相,摇匀后成为乳白色的均匀液体,再次静置经过3分钟至3小时,会再次完成分层的过程,重新呈现上乳下水的分层状态。 We have found that the use of inulin lauryl carbamate can achieve the preparation of this double-layer lotion with the appearance of milk on top and water on the bottom. When the inulin lauryl carbamate/oil meets a certain ratio, the use of only a single inulin lauryl carbamate can achieve the stability of the double-layer lotion at 25°C to 48°C for more than 2 months, and slight oil floating will occur at 4°C for only 3 months. At the same time, we also found that when inulin lauryl carbamate is compounded with a small amount of non-ionic emulsifier containing PEG or ester or polyether structure (such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate-20, etc.), it can help the formula achieve stability in a low temperature (0-10°C) environment, and meet the requirements of 3 months of stability without oil at 0-48°C. After standing for 3 minutes to 3 hours, this double-layer lotion has an emulsion phase on the upper layer and a water phase on the lower layer. After shaking, it becomes a milky white uniform liquid. After standing for another 3 minutes to 3 hours, the stratification process will be completed again, and the stratification state of milk on top and water on the bottom will be presented again.
本发明意外地发现,单独使用PEG-40氢化蓖麻油也可以实现制备得到上乳下水的双层化妆水。The present invention unexpectedly discovered that the use of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil alone can also achieve the preparation of a double-layer lotion with milk-like upper and moisturizing properties.
PEG-40氢化蓖麻油是氢化蓖麻油的乙氧基化物,也称为聚氧乙烯40氢化蓖麻油,常温下为白色至黄色的粘稠状液体或膏状物,是一种优良的非离子型增溶剂及乳化剂。PEG-40氢化蓖麻油含有亲水和疏水基两个部分,HLB值在13~14之间,对于一些不易溶于水中的活性成分具有较好的增溶作用,在医药工业中它主要用于维生素的增溶,对于口服和局部应用的某些药物和芳香油,它也能起到较好的增溶作用。例如,发明专利CN 104173248 A(专利申请号201410453948.2)中将PEG-40氢化蓖麻油作为增溶剂使用,复配增溶山苍子精油、甜橙精油,最终得到一种含有天然植物精油的消毒洗手液。又如,发明专利CN 106176567 A(申请专利号201610714882.7)中提供了一种双层护肤乳液及其制备方法,虽然也使用了PEG-40氢化蓖麻油,但并不是单独使用,同时还复配了肉豆蔻酰谷氨酸钠、PPG-25-月桂醇聚醚-25作为乳化剂使用。PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is an ethoxylate of hydrogenated castor oil, also known as polyoxyethylene 40 hydrogenated castor oil. It is a white to yellow viscous liquid or paste at room temperature and is an excellent non-ionic solubilizer and emulsifier. PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil contains two parts, hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups, with an HLB value between 13 and 14. It has a good solubilizing effect on some active ingredients that are not easily soluble in water. In the pharmaceutical industry, it is mainly used for the solubilization of vitamins. It can also play a good solubilizing role for certain drugs and aromatic oils for oral and topical applications. For example, in the invention patent CN 104173248 A (patent application number 201410453948.2), PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is used as a solubilizer, compounded with litsea cubeba essential oil and sweet orange essential oil to finally obtain a disinfectant hand sanitizer containing natural plant essential oils. For example, the invention patent CN 106176567 A (patent application number 201610714882.7) provides a double-layer skin care lotion and a preparation method thereof. Although PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is also used, it is not used alone. Sodium myristoyl glutamate and PPG-25-laureth-25 are also compounded as emulsifiers.
本发明意外地发现,当PEG-40氢化蓖麻油/油脂满足一定比例,只需使用单一的PEG-40氢化蓖麻油就能实现制备双层化妆水,配方更精简,制造成本更低。本发明还发现,具有类似结构的其他氢化蓖麻油的乙氧基化物,如PEG-60氢化蓖麻油,HLB值在14-15,也可以实现制备这种外观特点的双层化妆水。The present invention unexpectedly found that when PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil/grease meets a certain ratio, only a single PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is needed to prepare a double-layer lotion, which is more streamlined and has a lower manufacturing cost. The present invention also found that other hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates with similar structures, such as PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, with an HLB value of 14-15, can also be used to prepare a double-layer lotion with this appearance feature.
本发明还发现,当乙氧基化或丙氧基化改性的具有PEG或PPG结构的酯类及醚类的水包油乳化剂,如PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类、聚山梨醇酯-20(PEG-20失水山梨醇月桂酸酯)等,也能制备双层化妆水,这类乳化剂的HLB酯在13-17之间。The present invention also finds that ethoxylated or propoxylated modified esters and ethers of water-in-oil emulsifiers having a PEG or PPG structure, such as PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polysorbate-20 (PEG-20 sorbitan laurate), etc., can also be used to prepare double-layer lotions. The HLB ester of such emulsifiers is between 13 and 17.
本发明的目的在于提供一种外观为上乳下水的双层化妆水,这种双层化妆水是一种稳态的双层剂型,具有稳定可控的分层时长和稳定的乳层含水量,本发明还提供了这种双层化妆水的制备方法。The purpose of the present invention is to provide a double-layer lotion with the appearance of milk on top and water on the bottom. The double-layer lotion is a stable double-layer dosage form with a stable and controllable stratification time and a stable water content of the milk layer. The present invention also provides a preparation method of the double-layer lotion.
发明内容Summary of the invention
一方面,本发明提供了一种稳态双层型化妆水,其包含:In one aspect, the present invention provides a stable double-layer lotion comprising:
5-20重量%的油脂; 5-20% by weight of fat;
0.1-1重量%的乳化剂,所述乳化剂是HLB值在13-17之间的含有或不含有乙氧基化或丙氧基化结构改性的酯类或醚类的水包油乳化剂;0.1-1 wt% of an emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier is an oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value between 13 and 17 and containing or not containing ethoxylated or propoxylated structurally modified esters or ethers;
1-10重量%的保湿剂;和1-10 wt % of a humectant; and
水;water;
其中,所述乳化剂与所述油脂的重量比为1∶15至1∶33;Wherein, the weight ratio of the emulsifier to the oil is 1:15 to 1:33;
其中,所述双层型化妆水的上层是乳液相,下层是水相;Wherein, the upper layer of the double-layer lotion is the emulsion phase, and the lower layer is the water phase;
其中,所述双层型化妆水的可视化分层时长为5分钟至4小时。Wherein, the visual stratification time of the double-layer lotion is 5 minutes to 4 hours.
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中的乳化剂包含氢化蓖麻油的乙氧基化物。In a preferred embodiment, the emulsifier in the two-layer lotion of the present invention contains an ethoxylate of hydrogenated castor oil.
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中的乳化剂选自:PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类、聚山梨醇酯-20、蔗糖月桂酸酯或它们的组合。In a preferred embodiment, the emulsifier in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is selected from: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polysorbate-20, sucrose laurate or a combination thereof.
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中的油脂为在室温下为液态的植物油脂、液态酯类、合成油脂、硅油、矿物油或它们的组合。例如,所述油脂选自:向日葵籽油、棕榈酸异丙酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、C12-C15烷基苯甲酸酯、碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、硅油(如聚二甲基硅氧烷和环戊硅氧烷)、角鲨烷、季戊四醇四辛酸酯、矿物油或它们的组合。In a preferred embodiment, the oil in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is a plant oil, liquid ester, synthetic oil, silicone oil, mineral oil or a combination thereof that is liquid at room temperature. For example, the oil is selected from: sunflower seed oil, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, silicone oil (such as polydimethylsiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), squalane, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, mineral oil or a combination thereof.
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中的保湿剂是多元醇,选自:甘油、1,3-丙二醇、丁二醇、双丙甘醇、甲基丙二醇、戊二醇、己二醇、辛甘醇、乙基己基甘油或它们的组合。In a preferred embodiment, the humectant in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is a polyol selected from glycerin, 1,3-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methyl propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin or a combination thereof.
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水还包含水溶性的、脂溶性的、或两亲性的化妆品活性物质中的一种或两种以上的组合。例如,所述化妆品活性物质选自:维生素类、维生素A或其衍生物类、维生素B或其衍生物类、维生素C或其衍生物类、叶酸或其衍生物类、维生素D或其衍生物、维生素E或其衍生物类、类胡萝卜素或胡萝卜素、蛋白质、氨基酸、多肽类、肌肽及脱羧肌肽、胶原及水解胶原类、阿魏酸、虾青素、麦角硫因、辅酶类、透明质酸类、神经酰胺类、糖或多糖类生物大分子、水杨酸及其衍生物类、传明酸、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、红没药醇、乳酸杆菌及酵母发酵液类、甘草来源提取物类、甘草酸二钾、甘草亭酸硬脂酸酯、牡丹酚甙、积雪甙、天然产物提取物中的一种或 两种以上的组合。In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer lotion of the present invention further comprises one or a combination of two or more water-soluble, fat-soluble, or amphiphilic cosmetic active substances. For example, the cosmetic active substance is selected from: vitamins, vitamin A or its derivatives, vitamin B or its derivatives, vitamin C or its derivatives, folic acid or its derivatives, vitamin D or its derivatives, vitamin E or its derivatives, carotenoids or carotene, proteins, amino acids, polypeptides, carnosine and decarboxylated carnosine, collagen and hydrolyzed collagen, ferulic acid, astaxanthin, ergothioneine, coenzymes, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, sugar or polysaccharide biomacromolecules, salicylic acid and its derivatives, tranexamic acid, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, bisabolol, lactobacillus and yeast fermentation broth, licorice-derived extracts, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glycyrrhetinic acid stearate, peony glycosides, asiaticoside, natural product extracts or one or more thereof. A combination of two or more.
另一方面,本发明提供了双层型化妆水的制备方法,包括以下步骤:In another aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a double-layer lotion, comprising the following steps:
(a)将保湿剂、乳化剂和水在室温至90℃的条件下混合,形成第一相;(a) mixing a moisturizer, an emulsifier and water at room temperature to 90° C. to form a first phase;
(b)使油脂处于室温至90℃作为第二相;(b) keeping the oil at room temperature to 90°C as the second phase;
(c)在室温至90℃的条件下将第二相加入第一相,均质化至均匀一致乳白色液体;(c) adding the second phase to the first phase at room temperature to 90° C. and homogenizing to a uniform milky white liquid;
(d)冷却至室温至45℃,加入任选的其他成分,混合均匀后得到双层型化妆水。(d) Cooling to room temperature to 45° C., adding other optional ingredients, and mixing well to obtain a double-layer lotion.
在优选的实施方式中,所述步骤(a)、(b)和(c)在70-90℃下进行。In a preferred embodiment, the steps (a), (b) and (c) are carried out at 70-90°C.
附图说明BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
图1为实施例23双层化妆水制备完成后静置8小时的照片。FIG1 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 after being prepared and left to stand for 8 hours.
图2为实施例23双层化妆水制备完成后静置3至25分钟的照片。FIG2 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 after being prepared and left to stand for 3 to 25 minutes.
图3为实施例23双层化妆水静置30分钟至1小时20分钟的照片。FIG3 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 after being left to stand for 30 minutes to 1 hour and 20 minutes.
图4为实施例23双层化妆水静置1.5小时至3.5小时的照片。FIG4 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 left to stand for 1.5 hours to 3.5 hours.
图5为实施例23双层化妆水静置4小时至10-12小时的照片。FIG5 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 left to stand for 4 hours to 10-12 hours.
图6为实施例23双层化妆水静置24-26小时至1周的照片。FIG6 is a photograph of the double-layer lotion of Example 23 left to stand for 24-26 hours to 1 week.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
本发明提供了一种双层型化妆水,该双层型化妆水采用HLB值在13-17之间的含有或不含有乙氧基(PEG)、丙氧基(PPG)化结构改性的酯类或醚类的水包油乳化剂(例如,PEG-40氢化蓖麻油)制备,静置后上层为乳液相下层为水相,摇匀后则成为均匀一致的乳白色液体,涂抹时亲肤性更好。而且,当再次静置后会重新恢复上乳下水的分层外观,具有新颖、高颜值的视觉特点,吸引消费者的眼球。The present invention provides a double-layer lotion, which is prepared by using an oil-in-water emulsifier (e.g., PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) with an HLB value between 13 and 17, which contains or does not contain ethoxylated (PEG) or propoxylated (PPG) structure-modified esters or ethers. After standing, the upper layer is an emulsion phase and the lower layer is an aqueous phase. After being shaken, it becomes a uniform milky white liquid, which is more skin-friendly when applied. Moreover, after standing again, the layered appearance of upper emulsion and lower water will be restored, which has novel and high-value visual characteristics, attracting consumers' attention.
本发明的双层稳态化妆水,具有保湿滋润、轻薄易吸收、水油平衡的优异肤感,受到消费者的青睐。The double-layer stable lotion of the present invention has excellent skin feel of moisturizing, being light and easy to absorb, and having a water-oil balance, and is favored by consumers.
为了提供更简明的描述,本文给出的一些数量表述没有用术语“约”修饰。应当理解,无论是否明确地使用了术语“约”,本文所给出的每个量都 意在指代实际的给定值,并且还意在指代由本领域的普通技术人员可合理推测出的这些给定值的近似值,包括这些给定值的由实验和/或测量条件所引起的近似值。In order to provide a more concise description, some quantitative expressions given herein are not modified by the term "about". It should be understood that each quantity given herein is intended to be used regardless of whether the term "about" is explicitly used. It is intended to refer to the actual given values, and also to refer to the approximations to these given values that could be reasonably estimated by one of ordinary skill in the art, including approximations to these given values caused by experimental and/or measurement conditions.
油脂grease
本发明的稳定双层化妆水可以包含化妆品领域可接受的各种液态油脂。The stable double-layer lotion of the present invention may contain various liquid oils and fats acceptable in the cosmetics field.
如本文所用,“油脂”意指一种或多种具有低于30℃熔点的疏水化合物。可用于本发明的双层型化妆水的油脂组分的化合物的合适例子包括:植物油脂、液态酯类(脂肪酸的甘油酯、甘油三酯)、合成油脂、硅油、矿物油等。具体的非限制性例子包括但不限于:向日葵籽油、棕榈酸异丙酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、C12-C15烷基苯甲酸酯、碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、硅油(如聚二甲基硅氧烷和环戊硅氧烷)、角鲨烷、季戊四醇四辛酸酯和矿物油等。As used herein, "oil" means one or more hydrophobic compounds having a melting point below 30°C. Suitable examples of compounds that can be used as the oil component of the double-layer type lotion of the present invention include: vegetable oils, liquid esters (glycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids), synthetic oils, silicone oils, mineral oils, etc. Specific non-limiting examples include, but are not limited to: sunflower seed oil, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, silicone oil (such as polydimethylsiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), squalane, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate and mineral oil, etc.
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中包含的油脂选自:向日葵籽油、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、矿物油或它们的任意组合。In some embodiments, the oil contained in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is selected from: sunflower seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, polydimethylsiloxane, mineral oil or any combination thereof.
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约5-20重量%的油脂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约5-15重量%的油脂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约8-15重量%的油脂。In some embodiments, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 5-20% by weight of fat. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 5-15% by weight of fat. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 8-15% by weight of fat.
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约8-10重量%的油脂。在另一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约10-12重量%的油脂。In some embodiments, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 8-10% by weight of oil. In other embodiments, the double-layer lotion of the present invention comprises about 10-12% by weight of oil.
乳化剂Emulsifier
“乳化剂”是使通常不可混溶的两种或更多种液体的混合物稳定的添加剂。本发明采用含有或不含有乙氧基(PEG)、丙氧基(PPG)化结构改性的酯类或醚类的水包油乳化剂,这类乳化剂的HLB值在13-17之间。An "emulsifier" is an additive that stabilizes a mixture of two or more liquids that are usually immiscible. The present invention uses an oil-in-water emulsifier of an ester or ether type with or without ethoxylated (PEG) or propoxylated (PPG) structure modification, and the HLB value of such emulsifier is between 13 and 17.
在一些实施方式中,单独使用PEG-40氢化蓖麻油制备得到上乳下水的双层化妆水。PEG-40氢化蓖麻油是氢化蓖麻油的乙氧基化物,也称为聚氧乙烯40氢化蓖麻油,常温下为白色至黄色的粘稠状液体或膏状物,是一种优良的非离子型增溶剂及乳化剂。PEG-40氢化蓖麻油含有亲水和疏水基两个部分,HLB 值在13~14之间。In some embodiments, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is used alone to prepare a double-layer lotion with an upper emulsion and a lower watering agent. PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is an ethoxylate of hydrogenated castor oil, also known as polyoxyethylene 40 hydrogenated castor oil. It is a white to yellow viscous liquid or paste at room temperature and is an excellent non-ionic solubilizer and emulsifier. PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil contains two parts, hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups. HLB The value is between 13 and 14.
在另一些实施方式中,使用与PEG-40氢化蓖麻油具有类似结构且HLB值在13-17之间的其他氢化蓖麻油的乙氧基化物,如PEG-n氢化蓖麻油(n=20-80)。例如,单独使用PEG-60氢化蓖麻油制备得到上乳下水的双层化妆水。单独使用PEG-60氢化蓖麻油作为乳化剂使用时,也可以制备得到稳定的双层型化妆水。PEG-60氢化蓖麻油具有与PEG-40氢化蓖麻油类似的结构,两者同为氢化蓖麻油的乙氧基化物,较常见应用于化妆品的配方开发中。PEG-60氢化蓖麻油的HLB值在HLB值14-15。可以预见,当满足氢化蓖麻油的乙氧基化物结构(即PEG-n氢化蓖麻油,n=20-80)且HLB值在13-15之间的乳化剂,都能够制备得到本发明所述的双层化妆水。In other embodiments, other hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates with a similar structure to PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and an HLB value between 13-17, such as PEG-n hydrogenated castor oil (n=20-80), are used. For example, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is used alone to prepare a double-layer lotion with an upper emulsion and a lower water content. When PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is used alone as an emulsifier, a stable double-layer lotion can also be prepared. PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil has a similar structure to PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. Both are ethoxylates of hydrogenated castor oil and are commonly used in the formulation development of cosmetics. The HLB value of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is in the HLB value of 14-15. It can be foreseen that when the emulsifier meets the ethoxylate structure of hydrogenated castor oil (i.e., PEG-n hydrogenated castor oil, n=20-80) and the HLB value is between 13-15, the double-layer lotion of the present invention can be prepared.
采用PEG-40氢化蓖麻油或PEG-60氢化蓖麻油作为乳化剂能够制备得到稳态的双层型化妆水。这种双层型化妆水在静置后上层为乳液相下层为水相,摇匀后则成为均匀一致的乳白色液体,涂抹时亲肤性更好。同时,这种双层型化妆水再次静置后(例如,3分钟至3小时)会重新恢复上乳下水的分层外观,具有新颖、高颜值的视觉特点。A stable double-layer lotion can be prepared by using PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil as an emulsifier. After standing, the upper layer of the double-layer lotion is an emulsion phase and the lower layer is an aqueous phase. After being shaken, it becomes a uniform milky white liquid, which is more skin-friendly when applied. At the same time, after standing again (for example, 3 minutes to 3 hours), the double-layer lotion will restore the layered appearance of upper emulsion and lower water, which has a novel and high-value visual feature.
在其他实施方式中,使用其他的含有或不含有乙氧基(PEG)、丙氧基(PPG)化结构改性的酯类或醚类的水包油乳化剂,这类乳化剂的HLB值在13-17之间。例如,在一些实施方式中,采用PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类、聚山梨醇酯-20(PEG-20失水山梨醇月桂酸酯)、蔗糖月桂酸酯或它们的组合来制备双层型化妆品。In other embodiments, other water-in-oil emulsifiers containing or not containing ethoxylated (PEG) or propoxylated (PPG) structure-modified esters or ethers are used, and the HLB value of such emulsifiers is between 13 and 17. For example, in some embodiments, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polysorbate-20 (PEG-20 sorbitan laurate), sucrose laurate or a combination thereof are used to prepare a double-layer cosmetic.
在优选的实施方式中,采用HLB值在13-17之间的其他的含有或不含有乙氧基(PEG)、丙氧基(PPG)化结构改性的酯类或醚类的水包油乳化剂与PEG-40氢化蓖麻油或PEG-60氢化蓖麻油的组合来制备双层型化妆品。In a preferred embodiment, a double-layer cosmetic is prepared by combining other water-in-water oil-emulsifiers with HLB values between 13 and 17 that may or may not contain ethoxylated (PEG) or propoxylated (PPG) structure-modified esters or ethers with PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-1重量%的乳化剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-0.8重量%的乳化剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.3-0.8重量%的乳化剂。In some embodiments, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-1% by weight of an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.8% by weight of an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.3-0.8% by weight of an emulsifier.
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水中乳化剂与油脂的重量比为1∶15至1∶33。 In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the emulsifier to the oil in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is 1:15 to 1:33.
保湿剂moisturizer
保湿剂是一类在产品中可在宽广相对湿度范围变化和较长时间内增加或保持皮肤上层水分的化妆品原料,这类原料具有低的挥发性,可以保留水分,吸留在皮肤表面,是一类皮肤调理剂。Moisturizers are a type of cosmetic raw material that can increase or maintain moisture in the upper layer of the skin over a wide relative humidity range and for a long period of time. These raw materials have low volatility, can retain moisture, and are absorbed on the skin surface. They are a type of skin conditioner.
本发明的双层型化妆水采用的保湿剂为多元醇类。例如,保湿剂可以选自:甘油、1,3-丙二醇、丁二醇、双丙甘醇、甲基丙二醇、戊二醇、己二醇、辛甘醇、乙基己基甘油或它们的任意组合。The humectant used in the double-layer lotion of the present invention is a polyol. For example, the humectant can be selected from: glycerol, 1,3-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methyl propanediol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin or any combination thereof.
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约1-10重量%的保湿剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约2-8重量%的保湿剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约2-5重量%的保湿剂。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约5-8重量%的保湿剂。In some embodiments, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 1-10% by weight of a moisturizer. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 2-8% by weight of a moisturizer. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 2-5% by weight of a moisturizer. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 5-8% by weight of a moisturizer.
其他成分Other Ingredients
本发明的双层型化妆水可包含其他成分。例如,本申请的双层型化妆水可以包含水溶性的、脂溶性的、或两亲性的化妆品活性物质等。The double-layer lotion of the present invention may contain other ingredients. For example, the double-layer lotion of the present application may contain water-soluble, fat-soluble, or amphiphilic cosmetic active substances.
在优选的实施方式中,所述化妆品活性物质选自具有保湿、滋养、舒缓、祛痘、控油、祛斑美白、去角质、防晒、紧致、抗皱、修护功效的成分中的一种或两种以上的组合。在优选的实施方式中,所述化妆品活性物质选自:维生素类、维生素A或其衍生物类、维生素B或其衍生物类、维生素C或其衍生物类、叶酸或其衍生物类、维生素D或其衍生物、维生素E或其衍生物类、类胡萝卜素或胡萝卜素、蛋白质、氨基酸、多肽类、肌肽及脱羧肌肽、胶原及水解胶原类、阿魏酸、虾青素、麦角硫因、辅酶类、透明质酸类、神经酰胺类、糖或多糖类生物大分子、水杨酸及其衍生物类、传明酸、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、红没药醇、乳酸杆菌及酵母发酵液类、甘草来源提取物类、甘草酸二钾、甘草亭酸硬脂酸酯、牡丹酚甙、积雪甙、天然产物提取物中的一种或两种以上的组合。In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic active substance is selected from one or more combinations of ingredients with moisturizing, nourishing, soothing, acne removal, oil control, freckle removal and whitening, exfoliation, sun protection, firming, anti-wrinkle, and repair effects. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic active substance is selected from one or more combinations of vitamins, vitamin A or its derivatives, vitamin B or its derivatives, vitamin C or its derivatives, folic acid or its derivatives, vitamin D or its derivatives, vitamin E or its derivatives, carotenoids or carotene, proteins, amino acids, polypeptides, carnosine and decarboxylated carnosine, collagen and hydrolyzed collagen, ferulic acid, astaxanthin, ergothioneine, coenzymes, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, sugar or polysaccharide biomacromolecules, salicylic acid and its derivatives, tranexamic acid, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, bisabolol, lactobacillus and yeast fermentation broth, licorice-derived extracts, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glycyrrhetinic acid stearate, peony glycosides, centella asiatica, and natural product extracts.
在一些实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-0.5重量%的甘草酸二钾。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-0.2重量%的甘草酸二钾。 In some embodiments, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.5 wt % of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate. In a preferred embodiment, the double-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.2 wt % of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.
在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.1-0.5重量%的二裂酵母发酵溶胞产物滤液。在优选的实施方式中,本发明的双层型化妆水包含约0.2-0.5重量%的二裂酵母发酵溶胞产物滤液。In a preferred embodiment, the two-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.1-0.5 wt % of the bifid yeast fermentation lysate filtrate. In a preferred embodiment, the two-layer type lotion of the present invention comprises about 0.2-0.5 wt % of the bifid yeast fermentation lysate filtrate.
双层化妆水的制备方法Preparation method of double-layer lotion
本发明中还提供了稳态双层型化妆水的制备方法。在一些实施方式中,可以按照以下方法制备双层型化妆水:The present invention also provides a method for preparing a stable double-layer lotion. In some embodiments, the double-layer lotion can be prepared according to the following method:
(a)将保湿剂、乳化剂和水在室温(例如25-30℃)至90℃的条件下混合,形成第一相;(a) mixing a moisturizer, an emulsifier and water at room temperature (e.g., 25-30° C.) to 90° C. to form a first phase;
(b)使油脂处于室温(例如,25-30℃)至90℃作为第二相;(b) allowing the oil to be at room temperature (e.g., 25-30° C.) to 90° C. as the second phase;
(c)在室温(例如25-30℃)至90℃的条件下将第二相加入第一相,均质化直至形成均匀一致的乳白色液体;(c) adding the second phase to the first phase at room temperature (e.g., 25-30° C.) to 90° C. and homogenizing until a uniform milky white liquid is formed;
(d)冷却至室温(例如25-30℃)至45℃,加入任选的其他成分,混合均匀后得到双层型化妆水。(d) cooling to room temperature (eg, 25-30° C.) to 45° C., adding other optional ingredients, and mixing well to obtain a double-layer lotion.
在优选的实施方式中,将得到的双层型化妆水静置5分钟至4小时,得到首次分层后的双层型化妆水,上层为白色乳液相,下层为水相。In a preferred embodiment, the obtained two-layer lotion is left to stand for 5 minutes to 4 hours to obtain a two-layer lotion after first stratification, wherein the upper layer is a white emulsion phase and the lower layer is an aqueous phase.
在优选的实施方式中,将分层后的化妆水摇匀后再次静置,经过5分钟至4小时可以再次完成分层,呈现上层为乳液相下层为水相的外观。In a preferred embodiment, the layered lotion is shaken and then allowed to stand again. The layers can be separated again after 5 minutes to 4 hours, presenting an appearance of an upper layer of the emulsion phase and a lower layer of the water phase.
在优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(a)、(b)和(c)在70-90℃下进行。在更优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(a)、(b)和(c)在80-90℃下进行。In a preferred embodiment, the above steps (a), (b) and (c) are carried out at 70-90°C. In a more preferred embodiment, the above steps (a), (b) and (c) are carried out at 80-90°C.
在优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(c)在2000-5000转/分条件下均质化。在优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(c)在3000-5000转/分条件下均质化。在更优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(c)在5000转/分条件下均质化。In a preferred embodiment, the homogenization in step (c) is carried out at 2000-5000 rpm. In a preferred embodiment, the homogenization in step (c) is carried out at 3000-5000 rpm. In a more preferred embodiment, the homogenization in step (c) is carried out at 5000 rpm.
在优选的实施方式中,上述步骤(c)的均质化保持10-20分钟。In a preferred embodiment, the homogenization in step (c) is maintained for 10-20 minutes.
在一个具体的实施方式中,将去离子水、多元醇、乳化剂在室温至90℃混合均匀作为第一相,使油脂处于室温至90℃作为第二相,在室温至90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质2000-5000转/分,保持10-20分钟,冷却至室温至45℃加入任选的其他成分,搅拌均匀,制备完成,静置待用。 In a specific embodiment, deionized water, polyols, and emulsifiers are mixed uniformly at room temperature to 90°C as the first phase, and the oil is kept at room temperature to 90°C as the second phase. The second phase is added to the first phase at room temperature to 90°C, homogenized at 2000-5000 rpm, maintained for 10-20 minutes, cooled to room temperature to 45°C, and optional other ingredients are added, stirred uniformly, and the preparation is completed and allowed to stand for use.
双层型化妆水的优势Advantages of double-layer lotion
本发明的双层型化妆水的最核心在于,实现了双层稳定状态,其稳定态主要表现在以下四个方面:The core of the double-layer lotion of the present invention is to achieve a double-layer stable state, and its stable state is mainly manifested in the following four aspects:
(1)开始出现分层的时长可控(1) The time it takes for stratification to begin is controllable
将稳态双层型化妆水摇匀后,静置大约5分钟就能观察到开始有分层的现象,即上层乳液相和下层水相开始分离,底部出现半透明的水相层,此过程为分层现象的开始阶段。After shaking the stable double-layer lotion, let it stand for about 5 minutes and you can observe the beginning of stratification, that is, the upper emulsion phase and the lower water phase begin to separate, and a translucent water phase layer appears at the bottom. This process is the beginning stage of the stratification phenomenon.
优势在于,当消费者在大约5分钟的较短时间内就能观察到可见的分层现象,不仅满足了消费者对产品体验的趣味性,也同时满足了消费者的使用便捷性。当消费者在使用时,从先摇匀再到倾倒在手上,基本上整个过程在十几秒至1分钟左右,因此大约5分钟的时间完全能够满足,同时也确保了每次摇匀后倒出的产品是均匀一致的,不会因为分层太快而使得倒出时上下层比例不一致,从而导致可能由此造成的肤感和功效的差异。The advantage is that consumers can observe visible stratification in a relatively short time of about 5 minutes, which not only satisfies consumers' interest in product experience, but also satisfies consumers' convenience of use. When consumers use it, the whole process from shaking to pouring on the hands basically takes about ten seconds to one minute, so about 5 minutes is enough, and it also ensures that the product poured out after each shaking is uniform and consistent, and the upper and lower layers will not be inconsistent when pouring due to too fast stratification, which may cause differences in skin feel and efficacy.
(2)完成可视化分层过程的时长可控(2) The time required to complete the visualization layering process is controllable
在静置5分钟至1.5小时的时间内,随着时间的延长,乳液相逐渐上升,水相层逐渐变高,在这个过程中水相为半透外观,乳液相和水相的分界面逐渐由模糊变清晰,此过程为乳液相和水相逐渐分离的过程,初步分层基本完成。During the standing time of 5 minutes to 1.5 hours, as time goes by, the emulsion phase gradually rises and the water phase layer gradually becomes higher. In this process, the water phase has a semi-permeable appearance, and the interface between the emulsion phase and the water phase gradually changes from blurred to clear. This process is the process of gradual separation of the emulsion phase and the water phase, and the initial stratification is basically completed.
在静置1.5分钟至4小时的时间内,乳液相和水相仍然处于分相的平衡过程中,表现为乳液相高度在减小,水相更趋于透明,此过程为分层的平衡阶段。During the standing time of 1.5 minutes to 4 hours, the emulsion phase and the water phase are still in the equilibrium process of phase separation, which is manifested in that the height of the emulsion phase is decreasing and the water phase is becoming more transparent. This process is the equilibrium stage of stratification.
在静置4小时至7-8小时的时间内,乳液相的高度基本接近,水相的透明度也基本一致,消费者理解为此分层过程基本完成,因此可以将4小时至7-8小时作为可视化分层过程的完成阶段。During the standing time of 4 to 7-8 hours, the height of the emulsion phase is basically close, and the transparency of the water phase is basically the same. Consumers understand that the stratification process is basically completed. Therefore, 4 to 7-8 hours can be regarded as the completion stage of the visual stratification process.
优势在于,这一可视化的分层时长不仅可控,而且非常符合消费者的使用习惯。当消费者在每天早晚使用产品时,确保能够观察到稳态双层化妆水在摇匀后重新恢复分层的变化过程,当再次使用时可重新进行摇匀;对于少数消费者,如果需要每天早中晚分三次使用产品,那么4小时的分层时长也能满足上述要求。 The advantage is that this visualized layering time is not only controllable, but also very consistent with consumers' usage habits. When consumers use the product every morning and evening, they can ensure that they can observe the change process of the steady-state double-layer lotion restoring the layers after shaking, and they can shake it again when they use it again; for a small number of consumers, if they need to use the product three times a day, morning, noon and evening, then a 4-hour layering time can also meet the above requirements.
(3)达到最终稳定态的时长可控(3) The time to reach the final stable state is controllable
当静置10-12小时,甚至再继续静置至24-26小时后,在此期间乳液相的高度仅有极轻微的减小,消费者在日常使用中基本上是观察不到的;当从24-26小时继续往后延长静置时长,乳液相的高度则保持不变,表明当静置24-26小时后,双层化妆水达到了一个最终的稳定状态。When left standing for 10-12 hours, or even further for 24-26 hours, the height of the emulsion phase only decreases very slightly during this period, which is basically unobservable by consumers in daily use; when the standing time is further extended from 24-26 hours, the height of the emulsion phase remains unchanged, indicating that after 24-26 hours, the double-layer lotion reaches a final stable state.
本发明中将达到最终稳定态的双层化妆水的上层乳液相称之为“雪顶”,因其有着山顶积雪的外观特点,摇晃后上层乳液相和下层水相会快速融合一体,静置后又能快速呈现分层特色,经过5分钟至4小时整个可视化动态分层过程完成。In the present invention, the upper emulsion phase of the double-layer lotion that reaches the final stable state is called "snow top" because it has the appearance of snow on the top of a mountain. After shaking, the upper emulsion phase and the lower water phase will quickly merge into one, and after standing, they will quickly show the stratification characteristics. The entire visual dynamic stratification process is completed after 5 minutes to 4 hours.
综上可见,本发明的双层化妆水具有可控的可视化分层时长和可控的稳定态静置时长,是一种稳态的双层型化妆水。本发明的稳态双层型化妆水具有固定的乳水层比例,且这种稳态双层化妆水的上层乳液相的含水量也是相对稳定的。In summary, the double-layer lotion of the present invention has controllable visual stratification time and controllable stable state standing time, and is a stable double-layer lotion. The stable double-layer lotion of the present invention has a fixed ratio of emulsion and water layers, and the water content of the upper emulsion phase of the stable double-layer lotion is also relatively stable.
本发明的双层稳态化妆水,具有保湿滋润、轻薄易吸收、水油平衡的优异肤感,受到消费者的青睐。The double-layer stable lotion of the present invention has excellent skin feel of moisturizing, being light and easy to absorb, and having a water-oil balance, and is favored by consumers.
下面结合具体实施例,以进一步阐述本发明。有必要在此指出的是,实施例只用于对本发明进行进一步的说明,不能理解为对本发明保护范围的限制,该领域的技术熟练人员可以根据上述本发明的内容做出一些非本质的改进和调整。下列实施例中未注明具体条件的试验方法,通常按照常规条件,或按照制造厂商所建议的条件。除非另有说明,所有的百分比和份数按重量计。The present invention is further described below in conjunction with specific examples. It is necessary to point out that the examples are only used to further illustrate the present invention and cannot be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Those skilled in the art in this field can make some non-essential improvements and adjustments based on the content of the present invention described above. The test methods in the following examples that do not specify specific conditions are usually based on conventional conditions or the conditions recommended by the manufacturer. Unless otherwise specified, all percentages and parts are by weight.
本发明实施例中采用的实验材料的来源、名称和外观如下表所示:


The sources, names and appearances of the experimental materials used in the examples of the present invention are shown in the following table:


本发明实施例中使用的实验仪器包括:The experimental instruments used in the embodiments of the present invention include:
1.固定搅拌器IKA RW201. Stationary agitator IKA RW20
2.恒温水浴锅上海一恒科学仪器有限公司HWS 28型2. Constant temperature water bath Shanghai Yiheng Scientific Instrument Co., Ltd. HWS 28
3.称量天平METTLER TOLEDO PL602-S3. Weighing balance METTLER TOLEDO PL602-S
4.均质机Polytron公司PT 3100 D型4. Homogenizer Polytron PT 3100 D
5. 48℃烘箱:MMM group MMM7075. 48℃ oven: MMM group MMM707
6. 4℃冰箱:MMM group FRIOCELL707 905706. 4℃ refrigerator: MMM group FRIOCELL707 90570
7.-18℃冰箱:海尔DW-40L7. -18℃ refrigerator: Haier DW-40L
实施例1Example 1
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.5质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油加热至75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份向日葵籽油作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。Heat 84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil to 75-80° C. and mix them evenly as the first phase. Add 10 parts by mass of sunflower seed oil as the second phase. Add the second phase to the first phase at 75-80° C. and homogenize at 3000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid. After the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is applied for standby use.
实施例2Example 2
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.5质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至 75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerol, and 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil were mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase, and 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride were heated to 75-80℃ is used as the second phase. The second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80℃ and homogenized at 3000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid. After the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion water is formed and set aside.
实施例3Example 3
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.5质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份角鲨烷加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of squalane are heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80°C, and homogenized at 3000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例4Example 4
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.5质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份聚二甲基硅氧烷加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of polydimethylsiloxane are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., and homogenized at 3000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例5Example 5
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.5质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份矿油加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of mineral oil are heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenized at 3000 rpm, and maintained for 10 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例6Example 6
将84.6质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.4质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化 妆水后待用。84.6 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerol, and 0.4 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil were mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride were heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase was added to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 15 minutes, and homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation was completed, it was allowed to stand until the double layer was formed. Use after applying makeup.
实施例7Example 7
将84.7质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.7 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.3 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenized at 5000 rpm, and maintained for 20 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例8Example 8
将86.7质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将8质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4500转/分,保持12分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。86.7 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.3 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 8 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenized at 4500 rpm, and maintained for 12 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例9Example 9
将82.2质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.8质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将12质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3500转/分,保持18分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。82.2 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.8 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 12 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., and homogenized at 3500 rpm for 18 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例10Example 10
将79.2质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.8质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将15质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。 Mix 79.2 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerol, and 0.8 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil at 75-80°C as the first phase, heat 15 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride to 75-80°C as the second phase, add the second phase to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenize at 4000 rpm, and keep for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
通过分析实施例1-10可以看出,当单一使用PEG-40氢化蓖麻油作为乳化剂使用时,在满足PEG-40氢化蓖麻油/油脂=1∶15至1∶33范围内,无论是植物油脂、酯类合成油脂、非极性烷烃油脂、硅油类油脂还是矿物油脂,都可以制备得到双层化妆水,对油脂的选择性并没有特殊的限制。By analyzing Examples 1-10, it can be seen that when PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is used alone as an emulsifier, within the range of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil/oil = 1:15 to 1:33, whether it is vegetable oil, ester synthetic oil, non-polar alkane oil, silicone oil or mineral oil, a double-layer lotion can be prepared, and there is no special restriction on the selectivity of oil.
实施例11Embodiment 11
将79.2质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.8质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在室温混合均匀作为第一相,将15质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯作为第二相,在室温时将第二相加入第一相,均质4500转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。79.2 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.8 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed evenly at room temperature as the first phase, and 15 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are used as the second phase. The second phase is added to the first phase at room temperature, and homogenized at 4500 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid. After the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion water is formed and set aside.
实施例12Example 12
将84.6质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.4质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在40-50℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至40-50℃作为第二相,在40-50℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持18分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.6 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.4 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 40-50° C. as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 40-50° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 40-50° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, and maintained for 18 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例13Example 13
将86.7质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在50-65℃混合均匀作为第一相,将8质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至50-65℃作为第二相,在50-65℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。86.7 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.3 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 50-65° C. as the first phase, 8 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 50-65° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 50-65° C., and homogenized at 5000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例14Embodiment 14
将84.6质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.4质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在65-70℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至 65-70℃作为第二相,在65-70℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3500转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.6 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerol, and 0.4 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil were mixed uniformly at 65-70° C. as the first phase, and 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride were heated to 65-70℃ is used as the second phase. The second phase is added to the first phase at 65-70℃ and homogenized at 3500 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid. After the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例15Embodiment 15
将86.7质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在80-90℃混合均匀作为第一相,将8质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至80-90℃作为第二相,在80-90℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。86.7 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.3 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 80-90° C. as the first phase, 8 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 80-90° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 80-90° C., and homogenized at 3000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
分析实施例11-15,同时对比实施例10可以看出,当保持PEG-40氢化蓖麻油和油脂的添加量及相对比例不变,即使在不同的温度区间进行乳化过程,最终都可以制备得到双层化妆水。可见,PEG-40氢化蓖麻油具有较宽的乳化温度范围,结合实施例10-15表明,在室温至90℃的范围内,PEG-40氢化蓖麻油都具有较好的制备双层化妆水的乳化能力。By analyzing Examples 11-15 and comparing them with Example 10, it can be seen that when the addition amount and relative proportion of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and fat remain unchanged, even if the emulsification process is carried out in different temperature ranges, a double-layer lotion can be prepared in the end. It can be seen that PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil has a wide emulsification temperature range. Combined with Examples 10-15, it is shown that within the range of room temperature to 90°C, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil has a good emulsification ability for preparing a double-layer lotion.
实施例16Example 16
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.5质量份PEG-60氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80°C, and homogenized at 3000 rpm for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例17Embodiment 17
将84.7质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份PEG-60氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化 妆水后待用。84.7 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerol, and 0.3 parts by mass of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil were mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride were heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase was added to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenized at 5000 rpm, maintained for 20 minutes, and homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation was completed, it was allowed to stand until the double layer was formed. Use after applying makeup.
实施例18Embodiment 18
将86.7质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份PEG-60氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将8质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4500转/分,保持12分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。86.7 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.3 parts by mass of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 8 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenized at 4500 rpm, and maintained for 12 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例19Embodiment 19
将82.2质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.8质量份PEG-60氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将12质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3500转/分,保持18分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。82.2 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.8 parts by mass of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 12 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., and homogenized at 3500 rpm for 18 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例20Embodiment 20
将79.2质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.8质量份PEG-60氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将15质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持10分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。Mix 79.2 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.8 parts by mass of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil at 75-80°C as the first phase, heat 15 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride to 75-80°C as the second phase, add the second phase to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenize at 4000 rpm, and keep for 10 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
分析实施例16-20可以看出,当单一使用PEG-60氢化蓖麻油作为乳化剂使用时,在满足PEG-60氢化蓖麻油/油脂=1∶15至1∶33范围内,也可以制备得到双层化妆水。而PEG-60氢化蓖麻油具有与PEG-40氢化蓖麻油类似的结构,两者同为氢化蓖麻油的乙氧基化物,较常见应用于化妆品的配方开发中。其中,PEG-40氢化蓖麻油的HLB值在13-14,而PEG-60氢化蓖麻油的HLB值在HLB值14-15,可以预见,当满足氢化蓖麻油的乙氧基 化物结构(即PEG-n氢化蓖麻油,n=20-80)且HLB值在13-15之间的乳化剂,都能够制备得到本发明所述的双层化妆水。From the analysis of Examples 16-20, it can be seen that when PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is used alone as an emulsifier, a double-layer lotion can also be prepared within the range of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil/grease = 1:15 to 1:33. PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil has a similar structure to PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. Both are ethoxylates of hydrogenated castor oil and are commonly used in the formulation development of cosmetics. Among them, the HLB value of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is 13-14, while the HLB value of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is 14-15. It can be foreseen that when the ethoxylates of hydrogenated castor oil are met, The double-layer lotion of the present invention can be prepared by using an emulsifier having a chemical structure (i.e., PEG-n hydrogenated castor oil, n=20-80) and an HLB value between 13-15.
实施例21Embodiment 21
将83.5质量份去离子水、2质量份甘油、3质量份丁二醇、0.5质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将3质量份向日葵籽油、2质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、4质量份角鲨烷、2质量份聚二甲基硅氧烷加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持12分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。83.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 2 parts by mass of glycerin, 3 parts by mass of butylene glycol, and 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are uniformly mixed at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 3 parts by mass of sunflower seed oil, 2 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 4 parts by mass of squalane, and 2 parts by mass of polydimethylsiloxane are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, and maintained for 12 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is formed for standby use.
实施例22Embodiment 22
将83.5质量份去离子水、2质量份甘油、3质量份1,3-丙二醇、0.5质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将2质量份向日葵籽油、3质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、4质量份角鲨烷、1质量份聚二甲基硅氧烷、1质量份矿油加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。83.5 parts by weight of deionized water, 2 parts by weight of glycerin, 3 parts by weight of 1,3-propylene glycol, and 0.5 parts by weight of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are uniformly mixed at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 2 parts by weight of sunflower seed oil, 3 parts by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 4 parts by weight of squalane, 1 part by weight of polydimethylsiloxane, and 1 part by weight of mineral oil are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, and maintained for 15 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is obtained for standby use.
实施例23Embodiment 23
将83.6质量份去离子水、3质量份甘油、2质量份丁二醇、0.4质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将1质量份向日葵籽油、4质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、6质量份角鲨烷加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4500转/分,保持12分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。83.6 parts by mass of deionized water, 3 parts by mass of glycerol, 2 parts by mass of butylene glycol, and 0.4 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 1 part by mass of sunflower seed oil, 4 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride, and 6 parts by mass of squalane are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 4500 rpm, and maintained for 12 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is formed for standby use.
实施例24Embodiment 24
将85.7质量份去离子水、2质量份甘油、2质量份丁二醇、2质量份1,3-丙二醇、0.3质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相, 将3质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、3质量份角鲨烷、2质量份矿油加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质5000转/分,保持16分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。85.7 parts by mass of deionized water, 2 parts by mass of glycerol, 2 parts by mass of butylene glycol, 2 parts by mass of 1,3-propylene glycol, and 0.3 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil were mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase. Heat 3 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3 parts by mass of squalane and 2 parts by mass of mineral oil to 75-80°C as the second phase, add the second phase into the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenize at 5000 rpm, and keep for 16 minutes to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例25Embodiment 25
将83.2质量份去离子水、1质量份甘油、2质量份丁二醇、2质量份1,3-丙二醇、0.8质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将2质量份向日葵籽油、3质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、3质量份角鲨烷、1质量份聚二甲基硅氧烷、2质量份矿油加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质3500转/分,保持20分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。83.2 parts by mass of deionized water, 1 part by mass of glycerin, 2 parts by mass of butylene glycol, 2 parts by mass of 1,3-propylene glycol, and 0.8 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are uniformly mixed at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 2 parts by mass of sunflower seed oil, 3 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3 parts by mass of squalane, 1 part by mass of polydimethylsiloxane, and 2 parts by mass of mineral oil are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 3500 rpm, and maintained for 20 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double-layer lotion is prepared for use.
分析实施例21-25可以看出,当使用PEG-40氢化蓖麻油作为乳化剂制备双层化妆水时,油脂可以是包括植物油脂、合成酯类油脂、烷烃类、硅油及矿油等不同品类的油脂中的一种或多种组合。From the analysis of Examples 21-25, it can be seen that when PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is used as an emulsifier to prepare a double-layer lotion, the oil can be one or more combinations of different types of oils including vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils, alkanes, silicone oils and mineral oils.
测试例1:实施例1-25稳定性考察Test Example 1: Stability Study of Examples 1-25
将实施例1-25的样品分别在25℃、40℃、48℃、4℃下分别储存4周、8周和12周,考察各个实施例的样品的稳定性。结果如表1所示。The samples of Examples 1-25 were stored at 25° C., 40° C., 48° C., and 4° C. for 4 weeks, 8 weeks, and 12 weeks, respectively, to investigate the stability of the samples of each Example. The results are shown in Table 1.
表1:实施例1-25的稳定性结果


Table 1: Stability results of Examples 1-25


实施例26Embodiment 26
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.5质量份PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, and 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate are mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenized at 4000 rpm, and maintained for 15 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside.
实施例27Embodiment 27
将84.7质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份聚山梨醇酯-20在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.7 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerol and 0.3 parts by mass of polysorbate-20 are mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 15 minutes, and a uniform milky white liquid is obtained by homogenization; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed and set aside for use.
实施例28Embodiment 28
将84.4质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.5质量份PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、0.1质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.4 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, and 0.1 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 15 minutes, and a uniform milky white liquid is obtained by homogenization; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed for standby use.
实施例29 Embodiment 29
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、0.2质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerin, 0.3 parts by mass of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, and 0.2 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 15 minutes, and a uniform milky white liquid is obtained by homogenization; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is formed for standby use.
实施例30Embodiment 30
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份聚山梨醇酯-20、0.2质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,即均质得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerol, 0.3 parts by mass of polysorbate-20, and 0.2 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, and maintained for 15 minutes, that is, homogenized to obtain a uniform milky white liquid; after the preparation is completed, let it stand until a double layer of lotion is obtained for standby use.
测试例2:实施例26-30稳定性考察Test Example 2: Stability Study of Examples 26-30
将实施例26-30的样品分别在25℃、40℃、48℃、4℃下分别储存4周、8周和12周,考察各个实施例的样品的稳定性。结果如表2所示。The samples of Examples 26-30 were stored at 25° C., 40° C., 48° C., and 4° C. for 4 weeks, 8 weeks, and 12 weeks, respectively, to investigate the stability of the samples of each Example. The results are shown in Table 2.
表2:实施例26-30的稳定性结果

Table 2: Stability results of Examples 26-30

分析实施例26-30可以看出,若使用其他的含有或不含有乙氧基(PEG)、丙氧基(PPG)化结构改性的酯类或醚类的水包油乳化剂,这类乳化剂的HLB值在13-17之间。如实施例26和实施例27使用的PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯-20,在初始阶段也能制备得到双层化妆水,但长期稳定性有一定风险,表现在4℃和25℃环境下经时存放8周后乳层表面会有轻微出油现象。当在此基础上若复配少量的PEG-40氢化蓖麻油,可以改善乳层的出油现象,从而帮助提升产品在货架期的稳定性。From the analysis of Examples 26-30, it can be seen that if other water-in-oil emulsifiers containing or not containing ethoxylated (PEG) or propoxylated (PPG) structure-modified esters or ethers are used, the HLB value of such emulsifiers is between 13 and 17. For example, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate and polysorbate-20 used in Examples 26 and 27 can also prepare double-layer lotions in the initial stage, but there are certain risks in long-term stability, which is manifested in slight oiling of the surface of the emulsion after storage for 8 weeks at 4°C and 25°C. On this basis, if a small amount of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is compounded, the oiling of the emulsion can be improved, thereby helping to improve the stability of the product during the shelf life.
对比例1Comparative Example 1
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、0.2质量份甲基硬脂酰基牛磺酸钠在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。隔夜观察到双层化妆水分层不明显,且分层后水相透明度低,底部有析出沉积,且水相与上层乳液的分界面不清晰,说明没有成功制得双层化妆水。84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerol, 0.3 parts by mass of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, and 0.2 parts by mass of sodium methyl stearoyl taurate were mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride were heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase was added to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 15 minutes, the preparation was completed, and allowed to stand until the double-layer lotion was used. Overnight, it was observed that the double-layer lotion was not clearly separated, and the transparency of the water phase after separation was low, there was precipitation at the bottom, and the interface between the water phase and the upper emulsion was unclear, indicating that the double-layer lotion was not successfully prepared.
对比例2Comparative Example 2
将84.5质量份去离子水、5质量份甘油、0.3质量份PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、0.2质量份甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将10质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持15分钟,制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。隔夜观察到双层化妆水分层后水相透明度低,乳层表面有结皮膏化现象,说明没有成功制得双层化妆水。84.5 parts by mass of deionized water, 5 parts by mass of glycerol, 0.3 parts by mass of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, and 0.2 parts by mass of glyceryl stearate citrate were mixed uniformly at 75-80°C as the first phase, 10 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride were heated to 75-80°C as the second phase, the second phase was added to the first phase at 75-80°C, homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 15 minutes, the preparation was completed, and allowed to stand until the double-layer lotion was used. It was observed overnight that the transparency of the water phase after the double-layer lotion was separated was low, and the surface of the milk layer had a skinning and creaming phenomenon, indicating that the double-layer lotion was not successfully prepared.
测试例3:双层化妆水的分层观察 Test Example 3: Observation of the stratification of double-layer lotion
将实施例23得到的双层化妆水为例,将180ml双层化妆水装入无色透明PET广口瓶中,上下摇晃10次充分摇匀后静置,在不同的时间点分别观察分层状态并拍照,见图2-图6。Taking the double-layer lotion obtained in Example 23 as an example, 180 ml of the double-layer lotion was put into a colorless transparent PET wide-mouth bottle, shaken up and down 10 times to fully mix, and then allowed to stand. The stratification state was observed and photographed at different time points, as shown in Figures 2 to 6.
(1)将稳态双层型化妆水摇匀后,静置5分钟左右就能观察到有开始分层的现象,即上层乳液相和下层水相开始分离,底部出现半透明的水相层,此过程为分层现象的开始阶段;(1) After the stable double-layer lotion is shaken and left to stand for about 5 minutes, the beginning of stratification can be observed, i.e., the upper emulsion phase and the lower water phase begin to separate, and a translucent water phase layer appears at the bottom. This process is the beginning stage of the stratification phenomenon;
(2)在静置5分钟至1.5小时的时间内,随着时间的延长,乳液相逐渐上升,水相层逐渐变高,在这个过程中水相为半透外观,乳液相和水相的分界面逐渐由模糊变清晰,此过程为乳液相和水相逐渐分离的过程,初步分层基本完成;(2) During the period of standing for 5 minutes to 1.5 hours, as time goes by, the emulsion phase gradually rises and the water phase layer gradually becomes higher. During this process, the water phase has a semi-transparent appearance, and the interface between the emulsion phase and the water phase gradually changes from fuzzy to clear. This process is the process of gradual separation of the emulsion phase and the water phase, and the initial stratification is basically completed;
(3)在静置1.5小时至4小时的时间内,乳液相和水相仍然处于分相的平衡过程中,表现为乳液相高度在减小,水相更趋于透明;此过程为分层的平衡阶段;(3) During the period of standing for 1.5 to 4 hours, the emulsion phase and the aqueous phase are still in the equilibrium process of phase separation, which is manifested by the emulsion phase height decreasing and the aqueous phase becoming more transparent; this process is the equilibrium stage of stratification;
(4)在静置4小时至7-8小时的时间内,乳液相的高度基本接近,水相的透明度也基本一致,消费者理解为此分层过程基本完成,因此可以将4小时至7-8小时作为可视化分层过程的完成阶段。(4) During the period of 4 to 7-8 hours of standing, the height of the emulsion phase is basically close, and the transparency of the water phase is basically consistent. Consumers understand that the stratification process is basically completed. Therefore, 4 to 7-8 hours can be regarded as the completion stage of the visual stratification process.
(5)当静置10-12小时,甚至再继续静置至24-26小时后,在此期间乳液相的高度仅有极轻微的减小,消费者在日常使用中基本上是观察不到的;当从24-26小时继续往后延长静置时长,乳液相的高度则保持不变,表明当静置24-26小时后,双层化妆水达到了一个最终的稳定状态。(5) When the emulsion is left standing for 10-12 hours, or even for 24-26 hours, the height of the emulsion phase decreases only slightly during this period, which is basically unobservable by consumers in daily use. When the standing time is extended from 24-26 hours, the height of the emulsion phase remains unchanged, indicating that after standing for 24-26 hours, the double-layer lotion reaches a final stable state.
可见,双层化妆水在摇匀后静置恢复分层的过程是一个动态的过程,静置5分钟能观察到可见的分层现象,既满足了消费者使用体验的趣味性,也满足了消费者的使用便捷性,即当消费者从摇匀到上脸使用,整个过程在十几秒至1分钟左右,因此5分钟的时间完全能够满足,且5分钟也确保了每次摇匀后倒出的产品是均匀一致的;静置5分钟至静置1.5小时,消费者能够观察到双层化妆水初步完成了第一次的分层;继续静置至4小时,可以观察到,乳层高度还在慢慢变化,完成分相的平衡过程;再继续静置至7-8小时,可以完成一次完整的可视化分层过程。这样的分层时长是非常符合消费者使用习惯的,既 能确保消费者在每天早晚使用产品时观察到双层化妆水的重新恢复分层的变化过程,又能满足少部分消费者需要每天早中晚三次使用产品的情况下,在4小时左右也能观察到双层化妆水的分相过程基本达到了平衡状态。It can be seen that the process of the double-layer lotion restoring stratification after being shaken is a dynamic process. Visible stratification can be observed after standing for 5 minutes, which not only satisfies the fun of the consumer experience, but also satisfies the convenience of use of consumers. That is, when consumers shake the lotion to apply it on the face, the whole process takes about ten seconds to one minute, so 5 minutes is enough, and 5 minutes also ensures that the product poured out after each shaking is uniform; after standing for 5 minutes to 1.5 hours, consumers can observe that the double-layer lotion has initially completed the first stratification; continue to stand for 4 hours, it can be observed that the height of the emulsion layer is still slowly changing, completing the phase balance process; continue to stand for 7-8 hours, and a complete visual stratification process can be completed. Such a stratification time is very consistent with consumers' usage habits, not only It can ensure that consumers can observe the re-stratification process of the double-layer lotion when using the product in the morning and evening every day. It can also meet the needs of a small number of consumers who use the product three times a day, morning, noon and evening. In about 4 hours, it can be observed that the phase separation process of the double-layer lotion has basically reached an equilibrium state.
因此,本发明所述的双层化妆水的可视化分层时长在静置5分钟至静置4小时。Therefore, the visual stratification time of the double-layer lotion of the present invention is between 5 minutes and 4 hours.
应用例1Application Example 1
在实施例21的基础上,添加活性成分、香精和防腐剂苯氧乙醇等其他成分,作为消费者使用测试评估的样品。Based on Example 21, other ingredients such as active ingredients, fragrances, and preservatives such as phenoxyethanol were added to prepare samples for consumer use test evaluation.
将82.25质量份去离子水、2质量份甘油、3质量份丁二醇、0.5质量份PEG-40氢化蓖麻油在75-80℃混合均匀作为第一相,将3质量份向日葵籽油、2质量份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、4质量份角鲨烷、2质量份聚二甲基硅氧烷加热至75-80℃作为第二相,在75-80℃时将第二相加入第一相,均质4000转/分,保持12分钟,冷却至室温至45℃加入0.15质量份的甘草酸二钾、0.5质量份的二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞产物、0.1质量份红没药醇、0.1质量份香精、0.4质量份苯氧乙醇,均质4000转/分,保持5分钟,得到均匀一致乳白色液体;制备完成,静置至双层化妆水后待用。82.25 parts by mass of deionized water, 2 parts by mass of glycerin, 3 parts by mass of butylene glycol, and 0.5 parts by mass of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are mixed uniformly at 75-80° C. as the first phase, 3 parts by mass of sunflower seed oil, 2 parts by mass of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 4 parts by mass of squalane, and 2 parts by mass of polydimethylsiloxane are heated to 75-80° C. as the second phase, the second phase is added to the first phase at 75-80° C., homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 12 minutes, cooled to room temperature to 45° C., 0.15 parts by mass of dipotassium glycyrrhizate, 0.5 parts by mass of bifid yeast fermentation product lysate, 0.1 parts by mass of bisabolol, 0.1 parts by mass of essence, and 0.4 parts by mass of phenoxyethanol are added, homogenized at 4000 rpm, maintained for 5 minutes, and a uniform milky white liquid is obtained; after the preparation is completed, it is allowed to stand until a double-layer lotion is used.
其中油溶性的红没药醇、香精被乳化在双层化妆水的上层乳液相中,水溶性的甘草酸二钾和二裂酵母发酵产物溶胞产物在双层化妆水的下层水相中;由于防腐剂苯氧乙醇在油水相有一定分配系数,则一部分在乳液相中,一部分在水相中。当双层化妆水被再次摇匀后,则会重新成为均匀一致的乳白色液体,这些成分就被均匀地混合在乳白的化妆水中,在消费者使用双层化妆水时,能够帮助舒缓、修护肌肤,愉悦体验。The oil-soluble bisabolol and essence are emulsified in the upper emulsion phase of the double-layer lotion, while the water-soluble dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and bifid yeast fermentation product lysate are in the lower water phase of the double-layer lotion; since the preservative phenoxyethanol has a certain distribution coefficient in the oil-water phase, part of it is in the emulsion phase and part in the water phase. When the double-layer lotion is shaken again, it will become a uniform milky white liquid again. These ingredients are evenly mixed in the milky white lotion. When consumers use the double-layer lotion, it can help soothe and repair the skin, giving them a pleasant experience.
测试例4:消费者使用评估Test Case 4: Consumer Usage Evaluation
测试人群:25~35岁消费者女性消费者Test population: Female consumers aged 25 to 35
样本量:10人Sample size: 10 people
测试样品:化妆水1#——应用例1双层化妆水;化妆水2#——市售欧莱雅复颜玻尿酸水光充盈双重焕亮精华水(简称“欧莱雅精华水”) Test samples: Toner 1# - Application Example 1 Double-layer Toner; Toner 2# - Commercially available L'Oreal Revitalizing Hyaluronic Acid Double Brightening Essence Water (referred to as "L'Oreal Essence Water")
产品使用方式:按照平时使用化妆水的习惯,左右半脸分别使用化妆水1#和2#,进行对比打分;每天至少2次,早晚各使用1次;每个产品使用3天,共计6天。How to use the product: According to your usual habit of using lotion, use lotion 1# and 2# on the left and right halves of the face respectively, and compare and score them; use at least 2 times a day, once in the morning and once in the evening; use each product for 3 days, for a total of 6 days.
评估方法:assessment method:
表3:消费者测试评估方法
Table 3: Consumer test evaluation methods
表4:消费者使用评估测试结果
Table 4: Consumer use evaluation test results
由表4的结果可以看出,本发明的双层化妆水在涂抹感受的喜欢程度、肤感总体喜欢程度、肌肤舒适度、肌肤的柔软度和肌肤滋润保湿效果等各个方面均优于市售欧莱雅精华水。可见,本发明的双层化妆水,相比欧莱雅精华水具有更优异的肤感,更受消费者欢迎。 From the results in Table 4, it can be seen that the double-layer lotion of the present invention is superior to the commercially available L'Oreal essence water in terms of the degree of liking the application feeling, the overall degree of liking the skin feeling, the skin comfort, the skin softness and the skin moisturizing effect. It can be seen that the double-layer lotion of the present invention has a better skin feel than the L'Oreal essence water and is more popular with consumers.
其中,市售欧莱雅精华水的全成分包括以下:水、氢化聚癸烯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、角鲨烷、红花籽油、1,2-己二醇、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类、氨丁三醇、腺苷、辛酰水杨酸、透明质酸钠、PEG-40甘油椰油酸酯、乙基己基甘油、椰油醇聚醚硫酸酯钠、生育酚(维生素E)、辛甘醇、苯氧乙醇、香精。Among them, the full ingredients of the commercially available L'Oreal essence water include the following: water, hydrogenated polydecene, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, safflower seed oil, 1,2-hexanediol, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, tromethamine, adenosine, capryloyl salicylic acid, sodium hyaluronate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, ethylhexylglycerin, sodium cocoether sulfate, tocopherol (vitamin E), caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, and fragrance.
虽然欧莱雅精华水配方中的油脂成分与本发明的双层化妆水存在部分重叠,但本发明的双层化妆水所用的乳化剂PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯-20等都不是市售产品所实现的配方技术,因此,本发明与市售欧莱雅精华水是不一样的技术实现方式。 Although the oil components in the formula of L'Oreal essence water partially overlap with the double-layer lotion of the present invention, the emulsifiers PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, polysorbate 20, etc. used in the double-layer lotion of the present invention are not the formula technologies implemented by commercially available products. Therefore, the technical implementation methods of the present invention and the commercially available L'Oreal essence water are different.

Claims (10)

  1. 一种稳态双层型化妆水,其包含:A stable double-layer lotion comprising:
    5-20重量%的油脂;5-20% by weight of fat;
    0.1-1重量%的乳化剂,所述乳化剂是HLB值在13-17之间的含有或不含有乙氧基化或丙氧基化结构改性的酯类或醚类的水包油乳化剂;0.1-1 wt% of an emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier is an oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value between 13 and 17 and containing or not containing ethoxylated or propoxylated structurally modified esters or ethers;
    1-10重量%的保湿剂;和1-10 wt % of a humectant; and
    水;water;
    其中,所述乳化剂与所述油脂的重量比为1∶15至1∶33;Wherein, the weight ratio of the emulsifier to the oil is 1:15 to 1:33;
    其中,所述双层型化妆水的上层是乳液相,下层是水相;Wherein, the upper layer of the double-layer lotion is the emulsion phase, and the lower layer is the water phase;
    其中,所述双层型化妆水的可视化分层时长为5分钟至4小时。Wherein, the visual stratification time of the double-layer lotion is 5 minutes to 4 hours.
  2. 如权利要求1所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述乳化剂包含氢化蓖麻油的乙氧基化物。The two-layer lotion according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifier comprises an ethoxylate of hydrogenated castor oil.
  3. 如权利要求1所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述乳化剂选自:PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-6辛酸/癸酸甘油酯类、聚山梨醇酯-20、蔗糖月桂酸酯或它们的组合。The double-layer lotion according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifier is selected from: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polysorbate-20, sucrose laurate, or a combination thereof.
  4. 如权利要求1所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述油脂为在室温下为液态的植物油脂、液态酯类、合成油脂、硅油、矿物油或它们的组合。The double-layer lotion according to claim 1, wherein the oil is a plant oil, liquid ester, synthetic oil, silicone oil, mineral oil or a combination thereof that is liquid at room temperature.
  5. 如权利要求4所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述油脂选自:向日葵籽油、棕榈酸异丙酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、C12-C15烷基苯甲酸酯、碳酸二辛酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、硅油(如聚二甲基硅氧烷和环戊硅氧烷)、角鲨烷、季戊四醇四辛酸酯、矿物油或它们的组合。The double-layer lotion as claimed in claim 4, wherein the oil is selected from: sunflower seed oil, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, silicone oil (such as polydimethylsiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane), squalane, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, mineral oil or a combination thereof.
  6. 如权利要求1所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述保湿剂是多元醇,选自:甘油、1,3-丙二醇、丁二醇、双丙甘醇、甲基丙二醇、戊二醇、己二醇、 辛甘醇、乙基己基甘油或它们的组合。The double-layer lotion according to claim 1, wherein the humectant is a polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerol, 1,3-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methyl propanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, or a combination thereof.
  7. 如权利要求1所述的双层型化妆水,还包含水溶性的、脂溶性的、或两亲性的化妆品活性物质中的一种或两种以上的组合。The double-layer lotion as claimed in claim 1, further comprising one or a combination of two or more water-soluble, fat-soluble, or amphiphilic cosmetic active substances.
  8. 如权利要求7所述的双层型化妆水,其中,所述化妆品活性物质选自:维生素类、维生素A或其衍生物类、维生素B或其衍生物类、维生素C或其衍生物类、叶酸或其衍生物类、维生素D或其衍生物、维生素E或其衍生物类、类胡萝卜素或胡萝卜素、蛋白质、氨基酸、多肽类、肌肽及脱羧肌肽、胶原及水解胶原类、阿魏酸、虾青素、麦角硫因、辅酶类、透明质酸类、神经酰胺类、糖或多糖类生物大分子、水杨酸及其衍生物类、传明酸、四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸、红没药醇、乳酸杆菌及酵母发酵液类、甘草来源提取物类、甘草酸二钾、甘草亭酸硬脂酸酯、牡丹酚甙、积雪甙、天然产物提取物中的一种或两种以上的组合。The double-layer lotion according to claim 7, wherein the cosmetic active substance is selected from: vitamins, vitamin A or its derivatives, vitamin B or its derivatives, vitamin C or its derivatives, folic acid or its derivatives, vitamin D or its derivatives, vitamin E or its derivatives, carotenoids or carotene, proteins, amino acids, polypeptides, carnosine and decarboxylated carnosine, collagen and hydrolyzed collagen, ferulic acid, astaxanthin, ergothioneine, coenzymes, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, sugar or polysaccharide biomacromolecules, salicylic acid and its derivatives, tranexamic acid, tetrahydromethylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, bisabolol, lactobacillus and yeast fermentation broth, licorice-derived extracts, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glycyrrhetinic acid stearate, peony glycosides, asiaticoside, natural product extracts, or a combination of two or more thereof.
  9. 如权利要求1-8中任一项所述的双层型化妆水的制备方法,包括以下步骤:The method for preparing a double-layer lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising the following steps:
    (a)将保湿剂、乳化剂和水在室温至90℃的条件下混合,形成第一相;(a) mixing a moisturizer, an emulsifier and water at room temperature to 90° C. to form a first phase;
    (b)使油脂处于室温至90℃作为第二相;(b) keeping the oil at room temperature to 90°C as the second phase;
    (c)在室温至90℃的条件下将第二相加入第一相,均质化至均匀一致乳白色液体;(c) adding the second phase to the first phase at room temperature to 90° C. and homogenizing to a uniform milky white liquid;
    (d)冷却至室温至45℃,加入任选的其他成分,混合均匀后得到双层型化妆水。(d) Cooling to room temperature to 45° C., adding other optional ingredients, and mixing well to obtain a double-layer lotion.
  10. 如权利要求9所述的制备方法,其中,所述步骤(a)、(b)和(c)在70-90℃下进行。 The preparation method according to claim 9, wherein steps (a), (b) and (c) are carried out at 70-90°C.
PCT/CN2023/123793 2022-10-20 2023-10-10 Steady-state double-layer toner and preparation method therefor WO2024083001A1 (en)

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