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WO2016119028A1 - Composition d'écran solaire transparente - Google Patents

Composition d'écran solaire transparente Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016119028A1
WO2016119028A1 PCT/BR2015/050007 BR2015050007W WO2016119028A1 WO 2016119028 A1 WO2016119028 A1 WO 2016119028A1 BR 2015050007 W BR2015050007 W BR 2015050007W WO 2016119028 A1 WO2016119028 A1 WO 2016119028A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
triazine
mixtures
bis
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/BR2015/050007
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Renata Souto Maior Afonso FERREIRA
Anne-Laure Carmen Paulette GAUDRY
Natalia Queiroz REZENDE
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to BR112017014015A priority Critical patent/BR112017014015A2/pt
Priority to PCT/BR2015/050007 priority patent/WO2016119028A1/fr
Publication of WO2016119028A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016119028A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent

Definitions

  • sunscreen products generally take the form of ultraviolet (UV)-filter compounds and/or particulate UV-screening compounds (collectively, “sunscreen actives”) that are solubilized, emulsified, or dispersed in a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable carrier, which is topically applied to the skin.
  • UV ultraviolet
  • the sunscreen actives typically through the aid of polymers and other ingredients included in the vehicle, form a thin, protective, and often water-resistant layer on the skin.
  • organic sunscreen actives are oil-like and/or oil-soluble materials.
  • the applicants have recognized that severe aesthetic and performance problems still exist in most sunscreen products. Accordingly, the applicants have now identified a novel sunscreen composition in the form of a transparent gel which spreads easily when applied on the skin, provides a fresh sensation during application, is quickly absorbed into skin, and does not whiten the skin after application or after becoming wet with water or perspiration. Surprisingly, applicants also found the sunscreen composition of the invention provides a "soft-focus" effect, meaning the composition blurs skin heterogeneities such as lines and pores.
  • the present invention is directed to a transparent gel composition
  • a transparent gel composition comprising:
  • composition at least one sunscreen active; wherein the composition is initially clear in appearance and remains clear in appearance upon application onto skin.
  • the invention is also directed to a method of improving any one or more of the following properties of a sunscreen composition and ease of application, speed of absorption.
  • the invention is also directed to a method of reducing whitening of skin resulting from application of a sunscreen composition to the skin or after the skin becomes wet.
  • the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • Cosmetically acceptable means that the item in question is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
  • cosmetically acceptable carrier means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
  • a "physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium which is not toxic and can be applied to the skin, lips, hair, scalp, lashes, brows, nails or any other cutaneous region of the body.
  • the composition of the instant disclosure may especially constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
  • transparent means a semi-translucent, off- white to non-white, glossy gel. A composition is deemed transparent if transmitting light through it such that bodies situated beyond or behind can be distinctly seen.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyamide oil structuring agent.
  • Such polyamides may be ester-terminated or amide terminated.
  • ester and amide terminated polyamides that may be used as oil phase structuring agents include those sold by the company Croda under the SylvaclearTM or OleoCraftTM tradenames and known by the INCI names ethylenediamine/hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer bis-di-C14-18 alkyl amide (SylvaclearTM A200V or A2614V); bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer (SylvaclearTM C75V); polyamide-3 (SylvaclearTM AF1900V); polyamide-4 (SylvaclearTM WF1500V); or ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer (Ole
  • the oil structuring agent comprises an ester-terminated polyamide, preferably the compound whose INCI name is ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer such as the product sold by the company Croda under the name OleoCraftTM LP-I O-PA-(MV).
  • the polyamide oil structuring agent is preferably present in amounts ranging from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.8% to about 5% and even more preferably from about 1 % to about 3%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Non-Emulsifying Crosslinked Silicone Elastomer A composition according to the invention comprises at least one non- emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of a gel in which the crosslinked silicone elastomer is dispersed in a silicone oil such as a dimethicone or in a polyhydric alcohol such as butylene glycol.
  • silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from dimethicone crosspolymer (INCI name), vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (INCI name), and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (INCI name), and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers are described, for example, in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61 -194009.
  • the silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel or a paste of the silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a list comprising dimethicones, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, cyclomethicone, and mixtures thereof.
  • a linear silicone oil is used, such as, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones, each having a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1 to 200 cSt.
  • dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as KSG-6 and KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu;
  • dimethicone crosspolymer such as DC9040, DC9045 and DC5930 from the company Dow Corning;
  • dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer such as DC9041 from the company Dow Corning
  • dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer such as Dow Corning EL-9240 silicone elastomer blend from the company Dow Corning; and mixtures thereof.
  • a preferred crosslinked silicone elastomer according to the present invention is the mixture of dimethicone crosspolymer with dimethicone (2 cSt) sold under the tradename Dow Corning EL-9240 silicone elastomer blend from Dow Corning.
  • the organopolysiloxane elastomer is preferably present in amounts ranging from about 0.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 10% and even more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • cellulose derivatives that may be used in accordance with the invention are especially chosen from hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose (also known as HEC), hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose (also known as HPC), hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (also known as HPMC), and mixtures thereof.
  • HEC hydroxyethylcellulose
  • HPC hydroxypropylcellulose
  • HPMC hydroxypropylmethylcellulose
  • HPMC hydroxypropylmethylcellulose
  • a preferred cellulose derivative according to the present invention includes hydroxypropylcellulose.
  • the cellulose derivative is preferably present in amounts ranging from about 0.1 % to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3% and even more preferably from about 1 % to about 1 .5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the volatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, particularly those having a viscosity less than or equal to 200 centistokes (cSt).
  • PDMSs linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes
  • cSt centistokes
  • Non- limiting examples of such oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, the hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane the decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane (INCI name "dimethicone”), and mixtures thereof.
  • a preferred volatile silicone oil according to the present invention includes dodecamethylpentasiloxane (INCI name "dimethicone”) having a viscosity of 2 cSt.
  • the volatile silicone is preferably present in amounts ranging from about 0.1 % to about 90%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 50% and even more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyhydric alcohols that can be used in the composition according to the invention are short-chain C2-C8 compounds having at least two free hydroxyl groups, such as caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, propanediol, butanediol, glycols and glycol ethers, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol, and mixtures of the foregoing alcohols.
  • a preferred polyhydric alcohol according to the present invention is butylene glycol.
  • the polyhydric alcohol is preferably present in amounts ranging from about 0.1 % to about 40%, more preferably from about 3% to about 20%, and even more preferably from about 4% to about 6%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the monohydric alcohols are chosen especially from Ci-C 4 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • a preferred monohydric alcohol according to the present invention includes ethanol.
  • the monohydric alcohol is preferably present in amounts ranging from about 90% to about 1 %, more preferably from about 70% to about 20% and even more preferably from about 60% to about 50%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of sunscreen active agents include cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis- benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; p- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in applications US5237071 , US5166355, GB2303549, DE19726184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described especially in patent application WO
  • Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "Parsol ® MCX” by DSM Nutritional Products, Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan ® E 1000" by Symrise, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.
  • Ethyl PABA Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name “EscalolTM 507" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "Uvinul ® P25” by BASF.
  • Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "Uvinul ® 400" by BASF
  • Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name “Uvinul ® D50” by BASF
  • Benzophenone- 3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name "Uvinul ® M40" by BASF
  • Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "Uvinul ® MS40” by BASF
  • Benzophenone-5 Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb ® 1 1 " by Norquay
  • Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid
  • Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name "Uvinul ® DS-49” by BASF
  • Benzophenone-12 n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold under the trade name "Uvinul ® A+” or as a mixture with octyl me
  • Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex ® 232" by Merck, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan ® AP” by Symrise.
  • Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutyl-phenol sold in solid form under the trade name "MIXXIM BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the trade name "Tinosorb M” by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.
  • Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions for instance Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name "Parsol ® SLX” by DSM Nutritional Products.
  • the sunscreen actives according to the invention are preferably present in amounts ranging from about 90% to about 1 %, more preferably from about 60% to about 20% and even more preferably from about 50% to about 40%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention optionally may additionally comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from fragrances, chelating agents, softeners, antioxidants, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, thickening agents, or any other ingredient commonly used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • cosmetic adjuvants chosen from fragrances, chelating agents, softeners, antioxidants, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, thickening agents, or any other ingredient commonly used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • composition ingredients serve to illustrate the invention without however exhibiting a limiting character.
  • amounts of the composition ingredients are given as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Phase A The ingredients of Phase A were combined, heated to 88-92°C with mixing, and mixed until homogeneous. The resulting composition was cooled to 40°C, and the ingredients of phases B and C were added to the batch. The batch was mixed until homogenous and then cooled. At 30°C, phase D was added, and the batch was mixed until an agglomerate-free gel was formed.
  • Example 1 The composition of Example 1 was assessed for white residue deposition by an expert panel. The results of this test par provided below in table 2.
  • Trained panelists used QDA ® methodology to evaluate the product's attributes after initial application and after water and product reapplication. Attributes were quantified using an 1 1 -point non-structured scale with 0 representing the lowest (no white residue) and 10 representing the highest (high amount of white residue). Values were analyzed according to the following methods: statistical analysis, PCA, ANOVA, and Tukey Test.
  • Example 1 does not yield white residue after fresh water or sea water application.
  • Dermascore ® allows visualization of certain skin characteristics as a function of the polarization of light, specifically visualization of pores with parallel- polarized light and skin color and also skin heterogeneities with perpendicular- polarized light. Images were captured and an analysis carried out. For this evaluation, 2 mg/cm 2 of Example 1 was applied to artificial silicone skin. After 20 minutes, the sample region was compared against the same region before treatment.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique contenant au moins un agent structurant d'huile de polyamide, au moins un élastomère de silicone réticulé non-émulsifiant, au moins un dérivé de cellulose, au moins une huile de silicone volatile, au moins un alcool polyhydrique, au moins un alcool monohydrique, et au moins un écran solaire actif, la composition étant initialement transparente en apparence et restant transparente en apparence lors de l'application sur la peau.
PCT/BR2015/050007 2015-01-29 2015-01-29 Composition d'écran solaire transparente WO2016119028A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
BR112017014015A BR112017014015A2 (pt) 2015-01-29 2015-01-29 ?composição para aplicação à pele, uso da composição e método de aprimoramento?
PCT/BR2015/050007 WO2016119028A1 (fr) 2015-01-29 2015-01-29 Composition d'écran solaire transparente

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/BR2015/050007 WO2016119028A1 (fr) 2015-01-29 2015-01-29 Composition d'écran solaire transparente

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2016119028A1 true WO2016119028A1 (fr) 2016-08-04

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/BR2015/050007 WO2016119028A1 (fr) 2015-01-29 2015-01-29 Composition d'écran solaire transparente

Country Status (2)

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BR (1) BR112017014015A2 (fr)
WO (1) WO2016119028A1 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115006311A (zh) * 2022-07-06 2022-09-06 浙江宜格企业管理集团有限公司 一种透明双相防晒组合物及其制备方法
WO2022243267A1 (fr) * 2021-05-19 2022-11-24 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Composition d'écran solaire comprenant du bémotrizinol

Citations (38)

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