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WO2013186108A2 - Procédé de matification des peaux grasses - Google Patents

Procédé de matification des peaux grasses Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2013186108A2
WO2013186108A2 PCT/EP2013/061645 EP2013061645W WO2013186108A2 WO 2013186108 A2 WO2013186108 A2 WO 2013186108A2 EP 2013061645 W EP2013061645 W EP 2013061645W WO 2013186108 A2 WO2013186108 A2 WO 2013186108A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
alkyl
salts
acyl
light radiation
composition
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2013/061645
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
WO2013186108A3 (fr
Inventor
Andrew Greaves
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2013186108A2 publication Critical patent/WO2013186108A2/fr
Publication of WO2013186108A3 publication Critical patent/WO2013186108A3/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/81—Preparation or application process involves irradiation

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a cosmetic method for mattifying oily skin using a composition comprising an anionic surfactant and exposure of the treated skin to light.
  • the shininess of the skin is a problem which more particularly affects adolescents, but which may also appear in adulthood as a result especially of an overproduction of androgens. It may also be associated with sweat resulting from physical activity or weather conditions.
  • shiny skin is regarded as unattractive, all the more so since it often results in a poorer wear property of makeup, which has a tendency to degrade visually over the course of the day.
  • the Applicant has demonstrated that by applying, to oily skin, a composition comprising an anionic surfactant and by exposing the treated skin to light radiation, it is possible to reduce the glistening appearance of oily skin and thus give it a more matte appearance.
  • One subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic method for mattifying oily skin, comprising:
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one anionic surfactant in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
  • the method according to the invention makes it possible to mattify oily skin: indeed, it has been observed that the sheen of the skin is reduced after the application of the composition comprising the anionic surfactant to the skin and exposure of the treated skin to the light. The oily skin thus treated regains a more matte appearance.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to mean a medium compatible with keratin materials, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or red patches) liable to discourage the consumer from using it.
  • keratin materials is intended to mean the skin (body, face, area around the eyes, scalp), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails and lips.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one anionic surfactant.
  • the anionic surfactant can be chosen from, alone or as mixtures, salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts, of the following compounds:
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates;
  • alkyl sulfonates alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates;
  • alkyl sulfosuccinates alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates;
  • alkyl or acyl groups of all these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • C6-C2 4 alkyl esters of polyglycoside carboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N- acyl taurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • acyl lactylates in which the acyl group contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and salts thereof Mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids and salts thereof, and also polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C2 4 )alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C2 4 )alkyl(C6-C2 4 )aryl ether carboxylic acids and polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C2 4 )alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkyl sulfate salts mention may be made of sodium, magnesium or ammonium salts of alkyl sulfates, and in particular sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate.
  • alkyl ether sulfate salts mention may be made of the sodium, magnesium or ammonium salts of alkyl ether sulfates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulfate, preferably comprising 2 or 3 mol of ethylene oxide (EO), and sodium myreth sulfate.
  • EO ethylene oxide
  • alkyl sulfonate salts or alkylaryl sulfonate salts mention may be made of the sodium, ammonium or magnesium salts of alkyl sulfonates or of alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular of docusates, such as dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, or of alkylbenzene sulfonates.
  • alkyl phosphate salts mention may be made of the sodium, magnesium or ammonium salts of alkyl phosphates, and in particular of alkylaryl ether phosphates or of alkyl ether phosphates, preferably comprising 2 or 3 mol of EO.
  • alkyl carboxylate salts mention may be made of the salts, in particular sodium, magnesium or ammonium salts, of alkyl carboxylates, and in particular sodium stearate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium lauroyl glutamate.
  • the anionic surfactant is chosen from the alkyl sulfate salts, the acyl glutamate salts and the acyl lactylate salts as previously described, and a mixture thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant is chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauroyl glutamate and sodium lauroyl lactylate, and a mixture thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant is preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferentially ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight and better still ranging from 0.05% to 1 .5% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention comprising the anionic surfactant or the mixture of anionic surfactants, can be provided in any formulation form conventionally used for topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous gels or of aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic solutions.
  • a fatty or oily phase can also, by addition of a fatty or oily phase, be provided in the form of a dispersion of the lotion type, of an emulsion with a liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or of a suspension or emulsion with a soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively of a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O), of a microemulsion, of a vesicular dispersion of ionic and/or non-ionic type, or of a wax/aqueous phase dispersion, or even of an anhydrous composition, or alternatively of a solid composition.
  • These compositions will be prepared by those skilled in the art according to the usual methods.
  • They may also comprise, in the physiologically acceptable medium, the ingredients generally used in products of this type and that are well known to those skilled in the art, such as water, waxes, oils, gelling agents, thickeners, film- forming polymers, fillers, colorants, preservatives or fragrances, and a mixture thereof.
  • the ingredients generally used in products of this type and that are well known to those skilled in the art such as water, waxes, oils, gelling agents, thickeners, film- forming polymers, fillers, colorants, preservatives or fragrances, and a mixture thereof.
  • this step of the method it is possible to apply 0.01 to 0.5 g of cosmetic composition comprising the surfactant, alone or as a mixture, in particular 0.05 to 0.1 g of composition, per cm 2 of skin.
  • the method according to the invention also comprises a step consisting in applying, to the skin to be treated, light radiation having a wavelength of between 360 and 450 nm.
  • this step consisting in applying light radiation before, after or at the same time as (simultaneously with) the step consisting in applying the cosmetic composition comprising at least one surfactant.
  • the two steps take place simultaneously or, preferentially, the cosmetic composition comprising at least one surfactant is applied to the skin in a first step, and then light radiation is applied to the skin in a second step.
  • composition comprising the surfactant, before carrying out the step of applying the light radiation and/or of rinsing.
  • the light radiation used in the method according to the invention has a wavelength of between 400 and 450 nm.
  • the light radiation preferably has a fluence (amount of energy per unit surface area) ranging from 3 to 100 J/cm 2 , and preferably ranging from 3 to 10 J/cm 2 .
  • the light radiation may be a continuous or non-continuous light.
  • arc lamps such as xenon lamps and mercury lamps
  • fluorescent lamps such as halogens
  • LEDs and lasers Filters, which filter out radiation with a wavelength of less than 360 nm or greater than 450 nm, can also be used with these lamps.
  • the duration of exposure to the light radiation of the treated skin is at least 3 minutes.
  • this duration of exposure can range from 3 to 30 minutes, in particular between 3 and 15 minutes and better still between 3 and 10 minutes, whatever the order of the steps (one before the other or simultaneous).
  • the duration of exposure to the light can advantageously be between 3 minutes and 10 minutes. It is possible to perform rinsing of the composition, but this is not obligatory.
  • the duration of exposure to the light can advantageously be between 3 minutes and 10 minutes. It is possible to leave on the composition comprising the surfactant for a period of from 1 second to 1 hour, before carrying out the step of applying the light radiation. It is possible to perform rinsing of the composition, before or after the step of applying the light radiation, but this is not obligatory.
  • the sebum composition was spread over the artificial skin and left to diffuse for 5 minutes at ambient temperature.
  • Aqueous solutions of the following surfactants were tested.
  • sorbitan oleate 20 EO Tween 80® from Croda
  • sorbitan oleate Span 80® from Croda
  • no surfactant composition was applied to the sebum-impregnated skin.
  • the skin was exposed to the light for 2 and 10 minutes, after application of the composition.
  • the light source used is a xenon lamp (reference OMNI300 from the company Lot-Oriel) coupled to a computer and a monochromator with the following characteristics: wavelength of 430 nm and power of 15 mW/cm 2 (power measured at the surface of the Bioskin). Dose of irradiation received at the surface of the bioskin after 2 minutes equal to 1 .8 J/cm 2 and after 10 minutes equal to 9 J/cm 2 .
  • compositions 1 -E to 31 -E were carried out with the compositions 1 -E to 31 -E but with a light source having the following characteristics:
  • compositions 1 -E to 31 -E were carried out with the compositions 1 -E to 31 -E but with a light source having the following characteristics:

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé cosmétique de matification des peaux grasse, comprenant une étape consistant à appliquer sur la peau grasse une composition cosmétique comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un tensioactif anionique en quantité allant de 0,01 % à 12 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, et une étape consistant à appliquer sur la peau traitée un léger rayonnement ayant une longueur d'onde comprise entre 360 et 450 nm, pendant au moins 3 minutes.
PCT/EP2013/061645 2012-06-15 2013-06-06 Procédé de matification des peaux grasses WO2013186108A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US201261660160P 2012-06-15 2012-06-15
US61/660,160 2012-06-15
FR1255611A FR2991871B1 (fr) 2012-06-15 2012-06-15 Procede pour matifier la peau grasse
FR1255611 2012-06-15

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2013186108A2 true WO2013186108A2 (fr) 2013-12-19
WO2013186108A3 WO2013186108A3 (fr) 2014-05-30

Family

ID=47022761

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2013/061645 WO2013186108A2 (fr) 2012-06-15 2013-06-06 Procédé de matification des peaux grasses

Country Status (2)

Country Link
FR (1) FR2991871B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2013186108A2 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2021173933A1 (fr) * 2020-02-28 2021-09-02 Ma Joyce H Formulations et leurs utilisations

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3015243B1 (fr) * 2013-12-23 2016-02-05 Oreal Procede pour matifier la peau grasse avec un polythiol

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20070155842A1 (en) * 2005-12-30 2007-07-05 Judy Hattendorf Method of treating skin requiring Intense Pulse Light (IPL) procedure
WO2009077960A1 (fr) * 2007-12-14 2009-06-25 Photoderma Sa Nouveaux composés utiles dans des procédés thérapeutiques et cosmétiques
WO2010033494A2 (fr) * 2008-09-16 2010-03-25 Tria Beauty, Inc. Compositions, procédés, dispositifs et systèmes pour le soin de la peau
WO2011054033A1 (fr) * 2009-11-06 2011-05-12 The Brand Factory Pty Ltd As Trustee For The Brand Factory Trust Thérapies d'association utilisant une lumière non ablative et des agents topiques

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20070155842A1 (en) * 2005-12-30 2007-07-05 Judy Hattendorf Method of treating skin requiring Intense Pulse Light (IPL) procedure
WO2009077960A1 (fr) * 2007-12-14 2009-06-25 Photoderma Sa Nouveaux composés utiles dans des procédés thérapeutiques et cosmétiques
WO2010033494A2 (fr) * 2008-09-16 2010-03-25 Tria Beauty, Inc. Compositions, procédés, dispositifs et systèmes pour le soin de la peau
WO2011054033A1 (fr) * 2009-11-06 2011-05-12 The Brand Factory Pty Ltd As Trustee For The Brand Factory Trust Thérapies d'association utilisant une lumière non ablative et des agents topiques

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2021173933A1 (fr) * 2020-02-28 2021-09-02 Ma Joyce H Formulations et leurs utilisations
CN115605092A (zh) * 2020-02-28 2023-01-13 马可欣（Us） 制剂及其用途
US11801302B2 (en) 2020-02-28 2023-10-31 Joyce H. Ma Formulations and uses thereof
US11801303B2 (en) 2020-02-28 2023-10-31 Joyce H. Ma Formulations and uses thereof

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2991871A1 (fr) 2013-12-20
WO2013186108A3 (fr) 2014-05-30
FR2991871B1 (fr) 2014-07-25

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