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WO2012085098A2 - Émulsions huile dans l'eau à basse viscosité contenant un ou plusieurs glucosylglycérides et un ou plusieurs électrolytes - Google Patents

Émulsions huile dans l'eau à basse viscosité contenant un ou plusieurs glucosylglycérides et un ou plusieurs électrolytes Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012085098A2
WO2012085098A2 PCT/EP2011/073608 EP2011073608W WO2012085098A2 WO 2012085098 A2 WO2012085098 A2 WO 2012085098A2 EP 2011073608 W EP2011073608 W EP 2011073608W WO 2012085098 A2 WO2012085098 A2 WO 2012085098A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
electrolytes
emulsions
acids
cosmetic
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2011/073608
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2012085098A3 (fr
Inventor
Rainer Kröpke
Christian Frese
Cathrin Scherner
Volker Kallmayer
Isabel Balcke
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Priority to EP11808633.9A priority Critical patent/EP2654698A2/fr
Publication of WO2012085098A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012085098A2/fr
Publication of WO2012085098A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012085098A3/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23—Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to low viscosity W / O emulsions containing one or more glucosylglycerides and one or more electrolytes.
  • the present invention relates to active ingredients and cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing such drug combinations.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with a content of substances which increase the skin moisture.
  • the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (horny layer), is of particular importance as an important barrier layer, inter alia. for protection against environmental influences and dehydration.
  • the horny layer is constantly worn in contact with the environment and must therefore be renewed continuously.
  • a skin model widely used today in the art understands the stratum corneum as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model).
  • the corneocytes horny cells
  • the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar.
  • the epidermal lipids In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer.
  • the extremely complex interaction of the moisture-binding substances and the lipids of the upper skin layers is very important for the regulation of skin moisture. Therefore, cosmetics usually contain, in addition to balanced lipid mixtures and water, water-binding substances. These include polyols such as glycerin, sorbitol and xylitol, ethoxylated polyols and hydrolyzed proteins.
  • Natural Moisturizing Factor NMF
  • urea e.g glucose
  • amino acids e.g serine
  • W / O emulsions must be stabilized with electrolytes to ensure “salting out” of hydrophilic emulsifier constituents.
  • hydrophilic a W / O emulsifier (HLB value greater than 4), the more salt must be used.
  • a hydrophilic W / O emulsifier ensures that the viscosity of the water-in-oil emulsion can be set low, thereby achieving a better spreadability and skin absorption. This causes rapid instability of the W / O emulsion, so that previous W / O emulsions are always formulated with emulsifiers which have an HLB of less than 8.
  • concentrations of all components of a cosmetic or dermatological preparations are given in such units as% by weight,% by mole and the like. Because of their more or less pronounced dissociation into cations and anions, often in several dissociation stages, it seems more appropriate for the description of the present invention and its technical background to start from the ionic strength of a given electrolyte in its solution.
  • the ionic strength I of an electrolyte solution is defined as i
  • Cj represent the concentrations of the individual types of ions (in mol / l) and z, their charge numbers.
  • the physical unit of ionic strength is that of a concentration (mol / l).
  • the salts with the following anions chlorides, inorganic oxo element anions, of these in particular silicates, sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, borates and aluminates.
  • Electrolytes based on organic anions are also advantageous, for example lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, tartrates, citrates, amino acids and their salts and others. Comparable effects can also be achieved by ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its salts, as well as imidodisuccinic acid and its salts.
  • ammonium alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, calcium, magnesium, iron cupfer aluminum or zinc ions.
  • cosmetically acceptable electrolytes should be used in cosmetics.
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are furthermore advantageously selected from the group
  • water-soluble UV filter substances in particular those which carry on their molecular skeleton one or more sulfonic acid groups or sulfonate groups:
  • the 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts for example the sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt thereof
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt:
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor such as, for example, 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and its salts, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt:
  • UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are furthermore advantageously selected from the group
  • amino acids are part of the natural moisture factor (the so-called Natural Moisturizing Factor).
  • Natural Moisturizing Factor the natural moisture factor
  • Amino acids with particularly advantageous cosmetic or dermatological action are glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, proline, hydroxyproline, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine.
  • the electrolyte or electrolytes are further advantageously selected from the group
  • the ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or the ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or the ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids can be in the form of their physiologically tolerated salts.
  • the salicylic acid also 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, spiro acid, which is due to the structure
  • salicylic acid has an antibacterial and keratolytic action and is a constituent of many cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids used according to the invention are advantageously selected from the following classes of substances:
  • ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids falling under point (a2) are particularly advantageously selected from the group
  • n represents a number from 7 to 31, respectively.
  • mixtures of such aliphatic ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids in particular in the form of wool wax acid mixtures, in which the content of ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids is 20-30% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • the ⁇ -hydroxy sugars falling under (a3) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of
  • Aldonic acids e.g. Gluconic acid, galactonic acid
  • Aldaric acids e.g. Glucaric acid, galactaric acid (but also the fruit acid tartaric acid, which also falls under the definition of aldaric acid)
  • Uronic acids e.g. Glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid
  • the aliphatic ⁇ -hydroxy fruit acids falling under item (a3) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid.
  • OH Lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • Citric acid (2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • citric acid is used for buffering cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, but also as a synergist for antioxidants in skin and hair cosmetics.
  • Tartaric acid (dihydroxysuccinic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • Preferred ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid is pyruvic acid ( ⁇ -oxopropanoic acid). It is characterized by the following structure:
  • the maximum amount of electrolytes to be used is ultimately dependent on their solubility in the aqueous phase.
  • the teaching according to the invention does not set any maximum limits as it may even be advantageous, for whatever reason, to incorporate an additional amount of this electrolyte beyond the solubility of an electrolyte, for example as an undissolved solid, into a cosmetic or dermatological preparation ,
  • Preferred concentration of highly ethoxylated esters of polyol and fatty acid is 0.001 to 10%, particularly preferably 0.01-5%, particularly preferably 0, 1% - 3%.
  • glucosylglycerides of the general formula are advantageous
  • those preparations are particularly advantageous, which are characterized in that the glucosylglyceride or in the water and / or oil phase in concentrations of 0.001 to 40.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 15.00 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 12.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, are present.
  • the molar ratio of one or more Glucosylglyceriden to one or more highly ethoxylated esters of polyols and fatty acids in the range of 100: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 50: 1 to 1: 50, particularly preferably 20: 1 to 1: 20 to choose.
  • the preparations are particularly advantageously characterized in that the one or more highly ethoxylated esters of polyols and fatty acids in concentrations of 0.01 to 10.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5.00 wt. -%, more preferably 0.1 - 3.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, is present or present.
  • the cosmetic odorants can be present in the form of aerosols, ie aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or preparations which can be sprayed by a pump device or in the form of liquid compositions which can be applied by means of roll-on devices, as deodorant sticks (deodorant sticks). and in the form of customizable from normal bottles and containers W / O or O / W emulsions, eg Creams or lotions.
  • the cosmetic deodorants may advantageously be present in the form of deodorant tinctures, deodorizing intimate cleansing agents, deodorizing shampoos, deodorizing shower or bath preparations, deodorising powders or deodorising powder sprays.
  • the amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent:
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products.
  • mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.
  • alcoholic solvents water can be another ingredient.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent:
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, eg with isopro panol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products.
  • mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.
  • alcoholic solvents water can be another ingredient.
  • Suitable propellants for sprayable from aerosol containers cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the context of the present invention the usual known volatile, liquefied propellants, such as hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) are suitable, which can be used alone or in mixture with each other. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • Cosmetic preparations according to the present invention may also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents customarily used for it, preferably water, are also organic thickeners, for example gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, Hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickening agents, e.g. For example, aluminum silicates such as Benetonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate.
  • the thickener is contained in the gel, for example, in an amount between 0.1 and 30 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 15 wt .-%.
  • Medicinal white oil 12.5 10.0 10.0 5.0 17.5

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Émulsions huile dans l'eau cosmétiques ou dermatologiques ayant une viscosité de 3500 à 5000 mPas (mesurée à 25 °C) et contenant (i) un ou plusieurs glucosylglycérides, (ii) un ou plusieurs émulsifiants huile dans l'eau ayant des valeurs HLB supérieures à 8, (iii) au maximum 3 % en poids d'un ou de plusieurs émulsifiants huile dans l'eau ayant des valeurs HLB inférieures à 8, et (iv) un ou plusieurs électrolytes, dans des concentrations telles que la phase aqueuse présente une force ionique d'au moins 0,075 mol/l.
PCT/EP2011/073608 2010-12-23 2011-12-21 Émulsions huile dans l'eau à basse viscosité contenant un ou plusieurs glucosylglycérides et un ou plusieurs électrolytes WO2012085098A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP11808633.9A EP2654698A2 (fr) 2010-12-23 2011-12-21 Émulsions huile dans l'eau à basse viscosité contenant un ou plusieurs glucosylglycérides et un ou plusieurs électrolytes

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102010055769A DE102010055769A1 (de) 2010-12-23 2010-12-23 Niedrigviskose W/O mit einem Gehalt an einem oder mehreren Glucosylglyceriden und einem oder mehreren Elektrolyten
DE102010055769.2 2010-12-23

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2012085098A2 true WO2012085098A2 (fr) 2012-06-28
WO2012085098A3 WO2012085098A3 (fr) 2013-09-06

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2011/073608 WO2012085098A2 (fr) 2010-12-23 2011-12-21 Émulsions huile dans l'eau à basse viscosité contenant un ou plusieurs glucosylglycérides et un ou plusieurs électrolytes

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2654698A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102010055769A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2012085098A2 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2926801A1 (fr) * 2014-04-02 2015-10-07 Beiersdorf AG Émulsion cosmétique eau dans l'huile
WO2019020778A1 (fr) * 2017-07-28 2019-01-31 Alchemy Ingredients Limited Émulsions à haute phase interne

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102017006534A1 (de) * 2017-07-11 2019-01-17 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Elektrolyten in kosmetischen Zubereitungen zur selektiven Reduktion einer Mikroorganismenpopulation auf der menschlichen Haut
DE102019126257A1 (de) * 2019-09-30 2021-04-01 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Deo-Emulsion für Roll-on Deo mit antibakterieller Wirkung, Deo, umfassend dieselbe und Verwendung des Deos

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102005023635A1 (de) * 2005-05-19 2006-11-23 Beiersdorf Ag Wirkstoffkombinationen aus 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin und einem oder mehreren Glucosylglyceriden
EP2032119A1 (fr) * 2006-04-27 2009-03-11 Beiersdorf AG Préparation cosmétique comprenant des stimulateurs de l'aquaporine et son utilisation
DE102006034530A1 (de) * 2006-07-24 2008-01-31 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Formulierung mit (2-Hydroxyethyl)harnstoff und Glucosylglyceriden
DE102006055045A1 (de) * 2006-11-17 2008-05-21 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Verwendung von Glucosylglyceriden
DE102006055046A1 (de) * 2006-11-17 2008-05-21 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Formulierung mit Glucosylglyceriden und Puderrohstoffen
DE102006056320A1 (de) * 2006-11-21 2008-05-29 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische Formulierung mit Glucosylglyceriden und ausgewählten Parfümstoffen

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
None

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2926801A1 (fr) * 2014-04-02 2015-10-07 Beiersdorf AG Émulsion cosmétique eau dans l'huile
WO2019020778A1 (fr) * 2017-07-28 2019-01-31 Alchemy Ingredients Limited Émulsions à haute phase interne

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2012085098A3 (fr) 2013-09-06
DE102010055769A1 (de) 2012-06-28
EP2654698A2 (fr) 2013-10-30

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