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WO2011013654A1 - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Cosmetic Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011013654A1
WO2011013654A1 PCT/JP2010/062598 JP2010062598W WO2011013654A1 WO 2011013654 A1 WO2011013654 A1 WO 2011013654A1 JP 2010062598 W JP2010062598 W JP 2010062598W WO 2011013654 A1 WO2011013654 A1 WO 2011013654A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
average thickness
mica flakes
mica
cosmetic according
coating layer
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2010/062598
Other languages
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
和浩 中村
利昭 久保
Original Assignee
富士フイルム株式会社
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 富士フイルム株式会社 filed Critical 富士フイルム株式会社
Publication of WO2011013654A1 publication Critical patent/WO2011013654A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62Coated
    • A61K2800/621Coated by inorganic compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetics.
  • makeup cosmetics cover the dullness of the skin color that is felt with aging due to poor blood circulation and pigmentation (a state in which lightness decreases and yellow saturation increases), so concealment of titanium oxide, iron oxide, etc.
  • Cosmetics containing a high-strength pigment and cosmetics that change the hue of the skin by adding red, such as Bengala, lake pigments, or organic pigments are known.
  • a technology that improves lightness and bluishness and improves transparency by blending blue interference mica into the foundation instead of pigments with high hiding power that may give an unnatural impression. For example, JP-A-11-139929).
  • a composite powder using metal oxide flakes and a cosmetic using the same are also known in order to have high ultraviolet shielding ability, high transparency to visible light, and obtaining a good feeling of use.
  • metal oxide fine particles having a particle diameter of 30 nm to 120 nm are dispersed in the form of single particles, and a metal oxide fine particle-dispersed flaky glass having a thickness of 0.4 ⁇ m to 0.9 ⁇ m.
  • cosmetics containing the same are disclosed.
  • a surface of a metal oxide flake powder mainly composed of amorphous silica having an aspect ratio of 0.4 to 0.8 ⁇ m and an aspect ratio of 50 to 94 has a thickness of 25 to 95 nm.
  • a titanium oxide-coated metal oxide flaky powder coated with a titanium oxide layer having a thickness and a cosmetic containing the same are disclosed.
  • JP-A-2005-314649 discloses an interference pigment in which SiO 2 flakes or natural or synthetic mica flakes are coated with a high refractive index layer made of TiO 2 having a thickness of 20 to 200 nm.
  • This interference pigment is used for so-called ⁇ color flop '' in which the color of reflected light changes greatly depending on the viewing angle rather than the natural finish, and in the case of cosmetics such as nail polish, loose powder, gel, It is described as being characterized by particularly interesting color effects and strong color shifts.
  • the metal oxide flake powder disclosed in JP-A-9-71417 or JP-A-2005-314649 has a low reflectance as a powder, and therefore has sufficient brightness when blended in cosmetics. It is difficult to obtain, and the saturation as a cosmetic may be impaired.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic with good brightness and saturation.
  • the present invention is as follows. [1] A mica flake having an average thickness in the range of 50 nm to 200 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 5 to 1000, and a coating layer that covers the surface of the mica flake and has a higher refractive index than the mica flake. Cosmetics containing the composite powder. [2] The cosmetic according to [1], wherein the mica flakes have an average thickness in the range of 50 nm to 150 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 10 to 400. [3] The cosmetic according to [1], wherein the mica flakes have an average thickness in the range of 70 nm to 120 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 10 to 300.
  • the mica wherein the composite powder has an average thickness of 70 nm to 120 nm and an aspect ratio of 10 to 300, and an average thickness ( ⁇ ) and a standard deviation ( ⁇ ) are ⁇ / ⁇ ⁇ 0.3.
  • the cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [9], wherein the mica flakes are synthetic mica flakes.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention comprises a mica flake having an average thickness in the range of 50 nm to 200 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 5 to 1000, a coating covering the surface of the mica flake, and having a higher refractive index than the mica flake
  • a cosmetic comprising a composite powder comprising a layer.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention contains a composite powder in which mica flakes coated with a coating layer having a refractive index higher than that of mica flakes are formed in a shape represented by a predetermined average thickness and aspect ratio.
  • the rate is very high, improving the overall brightness of the cosmetics and at the same time keeping the chroma high. Thereby, the cosmetics with a bright and vivid finish can be provided.
  • the term “process” is not limited to an independent process, and is included in this term if the intended action of this process is achieved even when it cannot be clearly distinguished from other processes. .
  • a numerical range indicated by using “to” indicates a range including the numerical values described before and after “to” as the minimum value and the maximum value, respectively.
  • the amount of each component in the composition when there are a plurality of substances corresponding to each component in the composition, the plurality present in the composition unless otherwise specified. Means the total amount of substances. The present invention will be described below.
  • the mica flakes in the present invention are mica flakes having an average thickness in the range of 50 nm to 200 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 5 to 1000.
  • the powder alone has a high reflectance due to the reflectance of the mica flake itself in a wide wavelength region of visible light by the principle of thin film interference when the coating layer described later is provided. It becomes the powder which has.
  • mica flake means the whole aggregate of powder (individual flakes), and values such as average thickness and aspect ratio mean the average and aspect ratio of the whole mica flake as an aggregate. .
  • the “thickness” of the powder means the maximum length of an axis perpendicular to the reference plane, with the plane having the maximum area among the surfaces constituting one powder as the reference plane.
  • “Horizontal” means the length of the long axis that is the maximum of the reference plane, and “Vertical” means the minimum length of the axis that is orthogonal to the long axis that is the maximum of the reference plane.
  • average particle size refers to what is generally used for tabular grains in the industry, that is, the sum of the length and width of one powder, ie, the length in the major axis direction. And the length in the minor axis direction is divided by 2.
  • the average thickness of mica flakes in the present invention is preferably 50 nm to 150 nm, more preferably 70 nm to 120 nm in order to further increase the reflectance of the mica flakes in a wide wavelength region of visible light by the principle of thin film interference. is there.
  • the thickness of mica flakes can be generally measured by measuring the powder into ultra-thin slices and then measuring by transmission electron micrograph, or by measuring by scanning electron micrograph after cutting the section. However, it is not limited to this.
  • the average thickness of mica flakes is taken as the average of the thicknesses at 1000 locations by taking a transmission electron micrograph of each mica flake, measuring, for example, 10 locations of 100 powders (flakes) and measuring the respective thicknesses. That's fine.
  • the aspect ratio of the mica flakes is preferably 10 or more from the viewpoint of easily expressing so-called leafing properties in which the composite powder itself containing mica flakes is arranged along the skin surface when applied to the skin as a cosmetic.
  • the particle size may not be small to some extent in order to achieve a natural finish. 10 to 300 are preferable.
  • the aspect ratio can be measured by observing the powder by scanning electron micrograph.
  • the aspect ratio of the mica flake may be, for example, a value obtained by dividing the average particle diameter of 100 particles measured by observing the powder by the average thickness of the powder measured by the above method.
  • the average particle diameter of the mica flakes is preferably 1 ⁇ m to 20 ⁇ m, and more preferably 10 ⁇ m to 20 ⁇ m. If it is 1 micrometer or more, sufficient leafing property will be obtained, and if it is 20 micrometers or less, it can suppress a crack.
  • the mica flakes in the present invention desirably have a narrow thickness distribution.
  • the narrow thickness distribution of mica flakes in the present invention means that most of the mica flakes used are concentrated in the vicinity of the average thickness, and in the mica flakes used, Smaller mica flakes may be present.
  • Such a narrow thickness distribution can be expressed by the relationship between the average thickness ( ⁇ ) of mica flakes and the standard deviation ( ⁇ ), and ⁇ / ⁇ ⁇ 1 is an index indicating that the substantial thickness distribution is narrow. It becomes.
  • the average thickness ( ⁇ ) of the mica flakes and the standard deviation ( ⁇ ) Is more preferably ⁇ / ⁇ ⁇ 0.5, and even more preferably ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ 0.3.
  • the average thickness, aspect ratio, and average particle diameter of the mica flakes as described above may be any combination as long as two or more of these are combined, but the reflectivity is improved in a wider wavelength region.
  • mica flakes having an average thickness of 50 nm to 150 nm and an aspect ratio of 5 to 400, and an average particle diameter of 1 ⁇ m to 20 ⁇ m can be obtained, and more preferably.
  • mica flakes having an average thickness of 70 nm to 120 nm and an aspect ratio of 10 to 300 and an average particle diameter of 1 ⁇ m to 20 ⁇ m can be obtained.
  • Mica flakes have moderately low smoothness compared to glass flakes obtained by applying a metal alkoxide as a precursor to the substrate and peeling it off after forming on the substrate. It is known to be difficult.
  • the mica flakes in the present invention may be natural mica flakes or synthetic mica flakes. Among them, synthetic mica flakes have high transparency and are particularly preferable for application to the present invention.
  • the synthetic mica flakes in the present invention can be distinguished from natural mica flakes based on the so-called impurity content in the mica. That is, the synthetic mica flakes are specified as those having an Fe content of less than 0.1% with respect to the mass of the mica flakes, which causes coloring that impairs transparency. In general, the content of Fe in mica flakes can be measured by fluorescent X-rays or the like.
  • the mica flakes having a specific shape in the present invention can be obtained by separating commercially available mica flakes in a layered manner by a known method and further classifying them.
  • the coating layer of the composite powder in the present invention covers the surface of mica flakes and has a higher refractive index than the mica flakes (refractive index: 1.58).
  • the compound forming the coating layer is only required to have a higher refractive index than the mica flakes in order to obtain a high reflectance in a wavelength region having a wide visible range by the principle of thin film interference.
  • the refractive index in this case is generally based on a value calculated from reflectance measurement or ellipsometer measurement when a thin film is formed on a reference plate with a known refractive index. When measured in this way, if the refractive index of the mica flakes is 1.58, for example, the refractive index of the coating layer is higher than 1.58, preferably 2.00 or higher, more preferably 2.20 or higher, 2.40 or more is more preferable.
  • Such a coating layer preferably contains a metal oxide as a main component.
  • metal oxides include titanium oxide (anatase type titanium dioxide: refractive index 2.52, rutile type titanium dioxide: refractive index 2.71), zirconium oxide (refractive index 2.40), tin oxide, and oxidation.
  • Zinc resistive index 1.95) or the like, or a combination of two or more thereof can be given.
  • the main component is at least one metal oxide selected from titanium oxide, tin oxide, and zinc oxide, and titanium oxide having a particularly high refractive index compared to mica flakes. Is most preferred.
  • containing a metal oxide as a main component means that the component mainly constituting the coating layer is a metal oxide.
  • the mass of the metal oxide is at least 90% by mass with respect to the total mass. Above, especially the case where 95 mass% or more is contained is said.
  • the method for coating the mica flakes with the coating layer may be any method known as a wet method or a vapor deposition method.
  • a method for hydrolyzing acidic sulfuric acid titanium oxysulfate at a boiling temperature for example, JP-B 43-25644
  • a method for hydrolyzing titanium tetrachloride for example, JP-B 49-3824
  • the coating average thickness of the coating layer is preferably 25 nm to 90 nm from the viewpoint of improving the reflectance of the powder. If the average thickness is 25 nm or more, a sufficient increase in the reflectance of the powder can be expected. On the other hand, if the average thickness is 90 nm or less, the wavelength that gives the maximum and minimum of the reflection spectrum is sufficiently separated from each other. A decrease in average reflectance in the wavelength region of the entire light can be suppressed.
  • the average thickness of the coating layer is more preferably 40 nm to 60 nm when the compound constituting the coating layer is titanium oxide.
  • the distribution of the average thickness of the coating layer between the powders is preferably as small as possible.
  • the average thickness distribution of the coating layer between the powders is 10% or less calculated by multiplying the standard deviation divided by the average thickness by 100, more strictly 5%. It is known that the effect of improving the reflectance of the composite powder by thin film interference can be exhibited.
  • the mica itself that is the substrate of the composite powder is macroscopically white
  • the resulting composite powder is white with high thickness transparency.
  • the average thickness of the coating layer is 40 to 60 nm, the composite powder becomes highly transparent silver.
  • the average thickness of the coating layer is gradually increased to 160 nm, the transparency of yellow, red, magenta, blue and green is improved. Coloring (interference color) having a color is recognized. Further, when the average thickness of the coating layer is increased, the same colors of golden, red, magenta, blue and green are repeatedly observed.
  • the mica according to the present invention is colored silver to golden by interference effect and thickness distribution control even on a single substrate, so that the composite powder has a slightly yellowish silver color when the average thickness of the coating layer is 40 to 60 nm. ⁇ Golden color, lightness can be improved without causing reduction in saturation, and is most preferably used.
  • the composite powder in the present invention comprises the above-described mica flakes and a coating layer, and exhibits high transparency, color developability, and high reflectance as described above.
  • the average thickness of the composite powder as a whole is a value obtained by adding twice the average thickness of the coating layer to the average thickness of the mica flakes. It is determined from the optimum thickness range of the coating layer. Accordingly, the total average thickness of the composite powder is preferably 100 nm to 330 nm, more preferably 120 nm to 300 nm, and still more preferably 150 nm to 240 nm.
  • the composite powder according to the present invention has mica flakes having an average thickness of 70 nm to 120 nm and an aspect ratio of 100 to 300, and an average thickness ( ⁇ ) and standard deviation ( ⁇ ) of ⁇ / ⁇ ⁇ 0.3. It is composed of flakes and a coating layer having an average thickness of 40 nm to 60 nm, and the total average thickness of the composite powder is 150 nm to 240 nm. From the viewpoint, it is particularly preferable.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic containing a composite powder composed of mica flakes having the above coating layer.
  • this cosmetic contains a composite powder having high transparency, colorability and high reflectance, it has high visible light transparency, high brightness and saturation, and is used particularly as a foundation. In some cases, it can be a bright and vivid product.
  • the compounding amount of the composite powder in the cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the type of the intended cosmetic, but is preferably used in the range of 1 to 80% by mass with respect to the total mass of solid components such as pigments. May be in the range of 2-50% by weight, more preferably 5-30% by weight. If the content is 1% by mass or more, brightness, saturation and color developability can be sufficiently expected. On the other hand, if it is 80 mass% or less, sufficient addition effects by other additives, for example, change in color tone, ease of preparation, or improvement in adhesion to the skin can be sufficiently obtained.
  • the “solid component” means a component that is solid at 25 ° C. and 1 atm.
  • a commonly used pigment or the like can be used in combination as necessary.
  • titanium oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, petal, ultramarine, bitumen, and other inorganic pigments pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium and bismuth oxychloride
  • pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium and bismuth oxychloride
  • tar dyes, natural dyes, silica beads Powders such as plastic beads such as nylon, acrylic and urethane
  • extender pigments such as talc, kaolin, mica and sericite
  • other mica magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, clays, etc. Is done. You may use these substances individually or in combination of 2 or more types.
  • the composite powder may be subjected to surface treatment and modified.
  • surface treatment agent methyl hydrogen polysiloxane, reactive alkyl polysiloxane, metal soap, hydrogenated lecithin, acylamino acid, acylated collagen aluminum, magnesium, calcium, titanium, zinc, zirconium
  • hydrophobizing agent such as a metal salt selected from iron
  • the surface of the metal oxide coating layer changes from hydrophilic to hydrophobic. It is possible to improve the makeup and to impart water repellency, thereby reducing makeup collapse.
  • the cosmetics of the present invention include components blended in ordinary cosmetics, for example, various oils, surfactants, water-soluble substances, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired as necessary.
  • oil examples include liquid paraffin, petrolatum, paraffin wax, squalane, beeswax, carnauba wax, olive oil, lanolin, higher alcohol, fatty acid, higher fatty acid, ester oil, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, candelilla wax, diglyceride, triglyceride, silicone oil.
  • Oils commonly used in cosmetics such as perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecalin, perfluorooctane, jojoba oil, octyldodecyl myristate, and neopentyl glycol dioctanoate are used.
  • surfactant examples include polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene Nonionic surfactants such as oxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters; anionic surfactants typified by fatty acid soaps such as sodium stearate and triethanolamine palmitate; and cationic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants Surfactants that are widely used in cosmetics are used.
  • water-soluble polymers examples include carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, tragacanth gum, carrageenan, locust bean gum, dextrin, dextrin fatty acid ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, xanthan gum, gelatin, sodium alginate, gum arabic, etc. Water-soluble polymers widely used in cosmetics are used.
  • a humectant it is widely used in cosmetics such as sorbitol, xylitol, glycerin, maltitol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, lactic acid, sodium lactate, polyethylene glycol, etc. Moisturizers are used.
  • a preservative widely used in cosmetics such as paraoxybenzoic acid alkyl ester, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate and the like is used.
  • drugs commonly used in cosmetics such as vitamins, herbal medicines, anti-inflammatory agents, and bactericides are used.
  • UV absorbers examples include UV absorbers commonly used in cosmetics such as paraaminobenzoic UV absorbers, anthranyl UV absorbers, salicylic acid UV absorbers, cinnamic acid UV absorbers, and benzophenone UV absorbers. Is used.
  • Examples of the dye include Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228, Red 230, Red 401, Red 505, Yellow 4, Yellow 5, Yellow 202, Yellow 203, Yellow 204, Yellow 401, Blue 1, Blue 2, Blue 201, Blue 404 Tar dyes such as Green No. 3, Green No. 201, Green No. 204, Green No. 205, Orange No. 201, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 206, Orange No. 207; Carminic acid, laccaic acid, bradylin, crocin A commonly used pigment for cosmetics such as natural pigments is used.
  • inorganic salts or organic acid salts include inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and nitric acid; oxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid and malic acid; carboxylic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid and sorbic acid; or salicylic acid and benzoic acid
  • inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and nitric acid
  • oxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid and malic acid
  • carboxylic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid and sorbic acid
  • salicylic acid and benzoic acid An alkali metal salt, an alkaline earth metal salt or an aluminum salt of an aromatic carboxylic acid such as
  • preferred inorganic salts or organic acid salts include potassium sulfate, sodium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, aluminum sulfate, potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, aluminum nitrate, calcium nitrate, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium chloride, calcium chloride.
  • inorganic salts or organic acid salts may be incorporated into the composition of the present invention in the form of a salt, but when the cosmetic of the present invention is produced, the corresponding acid substance and base substance form a salt. It may be added in the stoichiometric amount necessary for this. Moreover, water can be mix
  • the cosmetic of the present invention has good brightness and saturation as described above, it can be used as various types of cosmetics including the cosmetic.
  • Such cosmetics are preferably used for foundations such as powder foundations, oily foundations, creamy foundations, liquid foundations, concealers, etc., makeup bases, face powders, etc., and point makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks and blushers Can be used.
  • the cosmetics of the present invention have good saturation and lightness, they can reduce dullness and provide a good finish with a bright transparency when applied to any application such as a makeup base or foundation. Can do.
  • the average thickness was measured by measuring 10 thicknesses of 100 pieces of transmission electron micrographs of ultrathin sections of each plate-like powder, and measuring the thicknesses. The average thickness ( ⁇ ) at 1000 locations. Was used. In addition, the thickness distribution was evaluated as a value of ⁇ / ⁇ by calculating a standard deviation ( ⁇ ) from the thickness value of 1000 and the average thickness ( ⁇ ).
  • Literature values were used for the refractive indexes of the mica of Examples and Comparative Examples.
  • the aspect ratio is the size (vertical and horizontal) of 100 powders taken from a photograph taken with a scanning electron microscope of flat plate powders spread and dispersed horizontally on a support substrate. (Average value) was measured, and a value obtained by dividing the average value of 100 powders by the average value of thicknesses calculated by the above method was used.
  • the coating layer was formed by a known wet method described in JP-A-09-71417. That is, after adding a titanium oxide precursor (titanium oxysulfate aqueous solution and sulfuric acid) to a dispersion in which synthetic mica flakes are dispersed, heating, stirring, filtering, washing and drying are performed, and the precursor is heated at a high temperature (1000 ° C.). Heat treatment was performed to form a titanium oxide coating layer. The average thickness of the coating layer was measured by observation with a transmission electron micrograph in the same manner as when measuring the average thickness of the synthetic mica flakes with respect to the average thickness of the composite powder, and the average thickness of the composite powder and the average thickness of the synthetic mica flakes. I asked for it.
  • a titanium oxide precursor titanium oxysulfate aqueous solution and sulfuric acid
  • an ultra-thin slice having a thickness of 100 nm was separately prepared, and the coating thickness was measured for each of 10 fields with 10 transmission powders using a transmission electron microscope.
  • the values calculated by multiplying the standard deviation divided by the average thickness by 100 were all 10% or less.
  • Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Example 1 were prepared by weighing each of the components of A phase and B phase described below (numerical values are parts by mass) and mixing them thoroughly with a Henschel mixer until the color material was elongated. ⁇ 4 powder foundations were prepared. The types of composite powder in the A phase were those listed in Table 1, respectively.
  • Composite powder ( Table 1) 10.0 parts Methyl paraben 0.09 parts Phase B dimethicone (and) trimethylsiloxysilicate 2.985 parts dimethicone (20 cs) 7.0 parts tocopherol 0.005 parts phenoxyethanol 0.01 part
  • Comparative Example 5 A foundation (base formulation) of Comparative Example 5 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 10.0 parts of the composite powder in Table 1 were replaced with 6.9 parts of sericite and 3.1 parts of talc. .
  • ⁇ Foundation evaluation> The skin color of the normal part of each sample coated with each foundation on the above skin color stain sheet is measured with a color difference meter CR-400 (manufactured by Konica Minolta Sensing Co., Ltd.), and the brightness L *, a * with a C light source is measured. , B *, and chroma C * were obtained. Subsequently, the spot portion of each sample was measured, and the color difference ⁇ E * ab between the value obtained at the spot portion and the value obtained at the normal portion was calculated by the following equation. The value obtained for the darkest spot (spot-1) and the next darkest spot (spot-2) among the five stages of spots was used as the evaluation of the covering power.
  • Examples 1 to 9 all have good brightness and saturation, a bright and vivid finish, and high covering power.
  • Examples 5, 6, and 7 have both high brightness and saturation, and are bright and vivid.
  • Comparative Examples 1 to 3 where the thickness of mica flakes is large, it is clear that such lightness and saturation cannot be achieved at a high level, and even if glass flakes having a narrow thickness distribution are used, saturation is not achieved. (See Comparative Example 4), it can be seen that the effects of the present invention cannot be obtained.
  • Example 10 to 18, Comparative Examples 6 to 10 Each component of the A phase, B phase, and C phase described below was weighed separately. In addition, the kind of composite powder in A phase used the thing of Table 1, respectively. Phase B was added to the container of the homomixer, and phase A was gradually added while stirring, and then the container was heated to 80 ° C. and stirred until all the components in phase B were melted. Separately, the container to which Phase C was added was also heated to 80 ° C. and stirred until all components were dissolved.
  • the liquid foundations of Examples 10 to 18 and Comparative Examples 6 to 10 were evaluated in the same manner as the above powder foundation. As a result, the foundations of Examples 10 to 18 were all excellent in lightness and saturation. In contrast, the foundations of Comparative Examples 6 to 9 and the liquid foundation (Comparative Example 10) of a general-purpose prescription not containing a composite powder could not achieve such high levels of brightness and saturation.
  • Example 19 Face powders were prepared in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 9, except that the B phase of the powder foundation of Examples 1 to 9 was not used. About the obtained face powder, the liquid foundation base formulation of Comparative Example 10 (not including the composite powder) was uniformly applied to the surface uniformly applied at a coating amount of 1.0 (mg / cm 3 ), and further 0.1 (mg / Samples uniformly coated with a coating amount of cm 3 ) were evaluated in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 9. The obtained face powder, like the powder foundations of Examples 1 to 9, was excellent in brightness and saturation and had a bright and vivid finish.
  • a preferable cosmetic such as a foundation or face powder having a bright and bright finish with both lightness and saturation being good.

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Abstract

Provided is a cosmetic that contains a composite powder comprising: mica flakes having a mean thickness between 50 nm and 200 nm and an aspect ratio between 5 and 1000; and a coating layer that coats the surfaces of the mica flakes and that has a refractive index higher than that of the mica flakes.

Description

化粧料Cosmetics
 本発明は、化粧料に関する。 The present invention relates to cosmetics.
 従来、例えばメークアップ化粧料では血行不良や色素の沈着により加齢とともに感じられる肌色のくすみ(明度が低下し黄色の彩度が上昇した状態)をカバーするため、酸化チタンや酸化鉄などの隠蔽力の高い顔料を配合した化粧料や、ベンガラ、レーキ顔料又は有機顔料などの赤色を加えて、肌の色相を変化させる化粧料が知られている。
 また、不自然な印象を与えてしまうことがある隠蔽力の高い顔料の代わりに、青色干渉マイカをファンデーションに配合することで、明度、青みを高めると共に、透明感を向上させる技術も知られている(例えば、特開平11-139929号公報)。
Conventionally, for example, makeup cosmetics cover the dullness of the skin color that is felt with aging due to poor blood circulation and pigmentation (a state in which lightness decreases and yellow saturation increases), so concealment of titanium oxide, iron oxide, etc. Cosmetics containing a high-strength pigment and cosmetics that change the hue of the skin by adding red, such as Bengala, lake pigments, or organic pigments, are known.
Also known is a technology that improves lightness and bluishness and improves transparency by blending blue interference mica into the foundation instead of pigments with high hiding power that may give an unnatural impression. (For example, JP-A-11-139929).
 一方で、高い紫外線遮蔽能を有し、可視光に対する透明性が高く、良好な使用感を得るために、金属酸化物フレークを用いた複合粉体及びそれを用いた化粧料も知られている。
 例えば、特開平7-315859号公報には、30nm~120nmの粒子径を有する金属酸化物微粒子が単粒子の形で分散し、厚み0.4μm~0.9μmの金属酸化物微粒子分散フレーク状ガラスとこれを含む化粧料が開示されている。
 また、特開平9-71417号公報には、0.4μm~0.8μmでアスペクト比が50~94の非晶質シリカを主成分とする金属酸化物フレーク状粉体表面に、25nm~95nmの厚さの酸化チタン層を被覆した酸化チタン被覆金属酸化物フレーク状粉体と、これを含む化粧料が開示されている。
On the other hand, a composite powder using metal oxide flakes and a cosmetic using the same are also known in order to have high ultraviolet shielding ability, high transparency to visible light, and obtaining a good feeling of use. .
For example, in JP-A-7-315858, metal oxide fine particles having a particle diameter of 30 nm to 120 nm are dispersed in the form of single particles, and a metal oxide fine particle-dispersed flaky glass having a thickness of 0.4 μm to 0.9 μm. And cosmetics containing the same are disclosed.
Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-71417 discloses that a surface of a metal oxide flake powder mainly composed of amorphous silica having an aspect ratio of 0.4 to 0.8 μm and an aspect ratio of 50 to 94 has a thickness of 25 to 95 nm. A titanium oxide-coated metal oxide flaky powder coated with a titanium oxide layer having a thickness and a cosmetic containing the same are disclosed.
 これらに対して特開2005-314649号公報には、SiOフレークや天然または合成雲母フレークに膜厚20~200nmのTiOからなる高屈折率層を被覆した干渉顔料が開示されている。この干渉顔料は、自然な仕上がりよりも、見る角度によって反射光の色味が大きく変化する所謂「カラーフロップ」のために用いられており、マニキュア液やルーズパウダー、ジェルなどの化粧品の場合に、特に興味深い色効果及び強いカラーシフトにより特徴付けられると記載されている。 In contrast, JP-A-2005-314649 discloses an interference pigment in which SiO 2 flakes or natural or synthetic mica flakes are coated with a high refractive index layer made of TiO 2 having a thickness of 20 to 200 nm. This interference pigment is used for so-called `` color flop '' in which the color of reflected light changes greatly depending on the viewing angle rather than the natural finish, and in the case of cosmetics such as nail polish, loose powder, gel, It is described as being characterized by particularly interesting color effects and strong color shifts.
 しかしながら、青色干渉マイカを用いた化粧料では明度及び彩度の両立において充分とは言い難い。また特開平9-71417号公報又は特開2005-314649号公報に開示された金属酸化物フレーク状粉体は、粉体としての反射率が低いため、化粧料に配合した際に充分な明度が得られにくく、また化粧料として彩度が損なわれることもある。 However, it is difficult to say that cosmetics using blue interference mica are sufficient in terms of both lightness and saturation. Further, the metal oxide flake powder disclosed in JP-A-9-71417 or JP-A-2005-314649 has a low reflectance as a powder, and therefore has sufficient brightness when blended in cosmetics. It is difficult to obtain, and the saturation as a cosmetic may be impaired.
 本発明の目的は、明度及び彩度がいずれも良好な化粧料を提供することである。 An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic with good brightness and saturation.
 本発明は以下のとおりである。
 [1] 50nm~200nmの範囲の平均厚みと5~1000の範囲のアスペクト比を有する雲母フレークと、前記雲母フレークの表面を被覆し、且つ前記雲母フレークより高い屈折率を有する被覆層と、からなる複合粉体を含有する化粧料。
 [2] 前記雲母フレークが50nm~150nmの範囲の平均厚みと10~400の範囲のアスペクト比を有する[1]に記載の化粧料。
 [3] 前記雲母フレークが70nm~120nmの範囲の平均厚みと10~300の範囲のアスペクト比を有する[1]に記載の化粧料。
 [4] 前記雲母フレークの平均厚み(μ)と標準偏差(σ)とがσ/μ≦0.5を満たすものである[1]~[3]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
 [5] 前記雲母フレークの平均厚み(μ)と標準偏差(σ)とがσ/μ≦0.3を満たすものである[1]~[3]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
 [6] 前記被覆層の平均厚みが25nm~90nmの範囲である[1]~[5]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
 [7] 前記複合粉体の平均厚みが100nm~300nmの範囲である[1]~[6]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
 [8] 前記複合粉体が、70nm~120nmの平均厚み及び10~300のアスペクト比を有すると共に、平均厚み(μ)と標準偏差(σ)とがσ/μ≦0.3である前記雲母フレークと、40nm~60nmの平均厚みを有する前記被覆層と、からなり、前記複合粉体の総平均厚みが150nm~240nmである[1]に記載の化粧料。
 [9]前記雲母フレークの平均粒径が、1μm~20μmである[1]~[8]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
 [10]前記雲母フレークが合成雲母フレークである[1]~[9]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
 [11] 前記被覆層が、酸化チタン、酸化スズ、酸化亜鉛及び酸化ジルコニウムから選ばれる少なくとも一つの金属酸化物を主成分として含む[1]~[10]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
 [12] ファンデーション、化粧下地又はフェイスパウダーである[1]~[11]のいずれかに記載の化粧料。
The present invention is as follows.
[1] A mica flake having an average thickness in the range of 50 nm to 200 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 5 to 1000, and a coating layer that covers the surface of the mica flake and has a higher refractive index than the mica flake. Cosmetics containing the composite powder.
[2] The cosmetic according to [1], wherein the mica flakes have an average thickness in the range of 50 nm to 150 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 10 to 400.
[3] The cosmetic according to [1], wherein the mica flakes have an average thickness in the range of 70 nm to 120 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 10 to 300.
[4] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein an average thickness (μ) and standard deviation (σ) of the mica flakes satisfy σ / μ ≦ 0.5.
[5] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein an average thickness (μ) and standard deviation (σ) of the mica flakes satisfy σ / μ ≦ 0.3.
[6] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein the coating layer has an average thickness in the range of 25 nm to 90 nm.
[7] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein the average thickness of the composite powder is in the range of 100 nm to 300 nm.
[8] The mica, wherein the composite powder has an average thickness of 70 nm to 120 nm and an aspect ratio of 10 to 300, and an average thickness (μ) and a standard deviation (σ) are σ / μ ≦ 0.3. The cosmetic according to [1], comprising flakes and the coating layer having an average thickness of 40 nm to 60 nm, wherein the composite powder has a total average thickness of 150 nm to 240 nm.
[9] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [8], wherein the mica flake has an average particle size of 1 μm to 20 μm.
[10] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [9], wherein the mica flakes are synthetic mica flakes.
[11] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [10], wherein the coating layer contains at least one metal oxide selected from titanium oxide, tin oxide, zinc oxide and zirconium oxide as a main component.
[12] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [11], which is a foundation, a makeup base, or a face powder.
 本発明の化粧料は、50nm~200nmの範囲の平均厚みと5~1000の範囲のアスペクト比を有する雲母フレークと、前記雲母フレークの表面を被覆し、且つ前記雲母フレークより高い屈折率を有する被覆層と、からなる複合粉体を含有する化粧料である。 The cosmetic of the present invention comprises a mica flake having an average thickness in the range of 50 nm to 200 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 5 to 1000, a coating covering the surface of the mica flake, and having a higher refractive index than the mica flake A cosmetic comprising a composite powder comprising a layer.
 本発明の化粧料は、屈折率が雲母フレークより高い被覆層で被覆された雲母フレークを所定の平均厚みとアスペクト比で表される形状とした複合粉体を含有するので、粉体単独の反射率が非常に高く、化粧料全体としての明度を向上し、同時に彩度を高く保つ。これにより、明るく、鮮やかな仕上がりの化粧料を提供することができる。 The cosmetic of the present invention contains a composite powder in which mica flakes coated with a coating layer having a refractive index higher than that of mica flakes are formed in a shape represented by a predetermined average thickness and aspect ratio. The rate is very high, improving the overall brightness of the cosmetics and at the same time keeping the chroma high. Thereby, the cosmetics with a bright and vivid finish can be provided.
 本明細書において「工程」との語は、独立した工程だけでなく、他の工程と明確に区別できない場合であっても本工程の所期の作用が達成されれば、本用語に含まれる。
 また、本明細書において「~」を用いて示された数値範囲は、「~」の前後に記載される数値をそれぞれ最小値及び最大値として含む範囲を示す。
 また、本発明において、組成物中の各成分の量について言及する場合、組成物中に各成分に該当する物質が複数存在する場合には、特に断らない限り、組成物中に存在する当該複数の物質の合計量を意味する。
 以下、本発明について説明する。
In this specification, the term “process” is not limited to an independent process, and is included in this term if the intended action of this process is achieved even when it cannot be clearly distinguished from other processes. .
In the present specification, a numerical range indicated by using “to” indicates a range including the numerical values described before and after “to” as the minimum value and the maximum value, respectively.
Further, in the present invention, when referring to the amount of each component in the composition, when there are a plurality of substances corresponding to each component in the composition, the plurality present in the composition unless otherwise specified. Means the total amount of substances.
The present invention will be described below.
 本発明における雲母フレークは、50nm~200nmの範囲の平均厚みと5~1000の範囲のアスペクト比を有する雲母フレークである。
 このような雲母フレークの形状とすることにより、後述する被覆層を備えたときに、薄膜干渉の原理によって可視光の広い波長領域での雲母フレーク自身の反射率によって、粉体単独で高い反射率を有する粉体となる。
The mica flakes in the present invention are mica flakes having an average thickness in the range of 50 nm to 200 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 5 to 1000.
By adopting such a mica flake shape, the powder alone has a high reflectance due to the reflectance of the mica flake itself in a wide wavelength region of visible light by the principle of thin film interference when the coating layer described later is provided. It becomes the powder which has.
 本発明において「雲母フレーク」とは、粉体(個々のフレーク)の集合体全体を意味し、平均厚み、アスペクト比などの数値は、集合体としての雲母フレーク全体の平均、アスペクト比を意味する。 In the present invention, “mica flake” means the whole aggregate of powder (individual flakes), and values such as average thickness and aspect ratio mean the average and aspect ratio of the whole mica flake as an aggregate. .
 本発明において、粉体の「厚み」とは、1つの粉体を構成する面のうち最大面積となる平面を基準平面として、当該基準平面に直行する軸の最大の長さを意味し、「横」とは、当該基準平面の最大となる長軸の長さを意味し、「縦」とは、当該基準平面の最大となる長軸に直交する軸の最小の長さを意味する。 In the present invention, the “thickness” of the powder means the maximum length of an axis perpendicular to the reference plane, with the plane having the maximum area among the surfaces constituting one powder as the reference plane. “Horizontal” means the length of the long axis that is the maximum of the reference plane, and “Vertical” means the minimum length of the axis that is orthogonal to the long axis that is the maximum of the reference plane.
 本発明で「平均粒径」とは、当業界で一般的に平板状粒子に対して使用されているものを指し、即ち、1つの粉体の縦と横の合計、即ち長軸方向の長さと短軸方向の長さとを足した合計を、2で割った値とする。 In the present invention, “average particle size” refers to what is generally used for tabular grains in the industry, that is, the sum of the length and width of one powder, ie, the length in the major axis direction. And the length in the minor axis direction is divided by 2.
 本発明における雲母フレークの平均厚みは、薄膜干渉の原理によって可視光の広い波長領域での雲母フレーク自身の反射率をより高めるために、好ましくは50nm~150nmであり、更に好ましくは70nm~120nmである。
 雲母フレークの厚みは、一般に、粉体を超薄切片に加工した後に透過型電子顕微鏡写真法により測定すること、又は、断面切削した後に走査型電子顕微鏡写真法により測定することによって行うことができるが、これに限定されない。雲母フレークの平均厚みは、各雲母フレークの透過電子顕微鏡写真を、例えば100個の粉体(フレーク)についてそれぞれ10ヶ所ずつ撮影してそれぞれの厚みを測定し、1000箇所での厚みの平均とすればよい。
The average thickness of mica flakes in the present invention is preferably 50 nm to 150 nm, more preferably 70 nm to 120 nm in order to further increase the reflectance of the mica flakes in a wide wavelength region of visible light by the principle of thin film interference. is there.
The thickness of mica flakes can be generally measured by measuring the powder into ultra-thin slices and then measuring by transmission electron micrograph, or by measuring by scanning electron micrograph after cutting the section. However, it is not limited to this. The average thickness of mica flakes is taken as the average of the thicknesses at 1000 locations by taking a transmission electron micrograph of each mica flake, measuring, for example, 10 locations of 100 powders (flakes) and measuring the respective thicknesses. That's fine.
 雲母フレークのアスペクト比については、化粧料として肌に塗布した際に雲母フレークを含む複合粉体自身が肌表面に沿って並ぶ、所謂リーフィング性を発現しやすくする観点から10以上が好ましい。一方、反射率の高い平板状の粉体として化粧料に適用した際に、自然な仕上がりとするためには粒子径がある程度小さくないとキラつきとして目視されてしまうことがあるため、400以下が好ましく、10~300が更に好ましい。アスペクト比の測定は一般に、粉体を走査型電子顕微鏡写真法により観察することにより測定できる。雲母フレークのアスペクト比は、例えば、粉体を観察することによって測定された100個の粒子の平均粒径を、前記の方法によって測定した粉体の厚み平均値で割った値とすればよい。 The aspect ratio of the mica flakes is preferably 10 or more from the viewpoint of easily expressing so-called leafing properties in which the composite powder itself containing mica flakes is arranged along the skin surface when applied to the skin as a cosmetic. On the other hand, when applied to cosmetics as a flat powder having a high reflectivity, the particle size may not be small to some extent in order to achieve a natural finish. 10 to 300 are preferable. In general, the aspect ratio can be measured by observing the powder by scanning electron micrograph. The aspect ratio of the mica flake may be, for example, a value obtained by dividing the average particle diameter of 100 particles measured by observing the powder by the average thickness of the powder measured by the above method.
 雲母フレークの平均粒径は、好ましくは1μm~20μmであり、10μm~20μmであることが更に好ましい。1μm以上であれば十分なリーフィング性が得られ、20μm以下であればキラつきを抑制することができる。 The average particle diameter of the mica flakes is preferably 1 μm to 20 μm, and more preferably 10 μm to 20 μm. If it is 1 micrometer or more, sufficient leafing property will be obtained, and if it is 20 micrometers or less, it can suppress a crack.
 また本発明における雲母フレークは、厚み分布が狭いことが望ましい。厚み分布の狭い雲母フレークを用いることによって、明度、彩度が共により良好となり、明るく、鮮やかな仕上がりを実現しやすくなる。
 本発明における雲母フレークの厚み分布が狭いこととは、用いられる雲母フレークの大部分が平均厚みの近辺に集中していることを意味し、用いられる雲母フレーク中に、より厚みの大きな雲母フレークやより小さい雲母フレークが存在していてもよい。このような厚み分布の狭いことは雲母フレークの平均厚み(μ)と標準偏差(σ)との関係で表すことができ、σ/μ≦1が、実質的な厚み分布が狭いことを示す指標となる。
The mica flakes in the present invention desirably have a narrow thickness distribution. By using mica flakes with a narrow thickness distribution, both brightness and saturation are improved, and a bright and vivid finish is easily realized.
The narrow thickness distribution of mica flakes in the present invention means that most of the mica flakes used are concentrated in the vicinity of the average thickness, and in the mica flakes used, Smaller mica flakes may be present. Such a narrow thickness distribution can be expressed by the relationship between the average thickness (μ) of mica flakes and the standard deviation (σ), and σ / μ ≦ 1 is an index indicating that the substantial thickness distribution is narrow. It becomes.
 雲母フレーク自身の干渉による反射率や干渉色が複合粉体のそれに反映されて、明度と彩度がより高度に両立する観点から、雲母フレークの平均厚み(μ)と、標準偏差(σ)とがσ/μ≦0.5であることがより好ましく、σ≦μ×0.3であることが更により好ましい。 From the viewpoint that the reflectance and interference color due to the interference of the mica flakes themselves are reflected in that of the composite powder, and the brightness and saturation are more compatible, the average thickness (μ) of the mica flakes and the standard deviation (σ) Is more preferably σ / μ ≦ 0.5, and even more preferably σ ≦ μ × 0.3.
 上述したような雲母フレークの平均厚み、アスペクト比及び平均粒径は、これらのうちの2つ以上を組み合わせるものであれば、いずれの組み合わせであってもよいが、より広い波長領域で反射率の高い雲母フレークを得る観点から、好ましくは、平均厚みが50nm~150nm及びアスペクト比が5~400であって、場合により更に平均粒径が1μm~20μmの雲母フレークとすることができ、さらに好ましくは、平均厚みが70nm~120nm及びアスペクト比が10~300であって、場合により更に平均粒径が1μm~20μmである雲母フレークとすることができる。 The average thickness, aspect ratio, and average particle diameter of the mica flakes as described above may be any combination as long as two or more of these are combined, but the reflectivity is improved in a wider wavelength region. From the viewpoint of obtaining high mica flakes, preferably mica flakes having an average thickness of 50 nm to 150 nm and an aspect ratio of 5 to 400, and an average particle diameter of 1 μm to 20 μm can be obtained, and more preferably. In addition, mica flakes having an average thickness of 70 nm to 120 nm and an aspect ratio of 10 to 300 and an average particle diameter of 1 μm to 20 μm can be obtained.
 雲母フレークは、前駆体である金属アルコキシド等をウエット塗布して基板上に形成後に剥離して得られるガラスフレークと比較して、平滑性が適度に低く、例えばファンデーションに適用した場合にキラつきがでにくいことが知られている。本発明における雲母フレークは、天然雲母フレークであっても合成雲母フレークであってもよく、中でも合成雲母フレークは、透明性が高く、本発明への適用に特に好ましい。 Mica flakes have moderately low smoothness compared to glass flakes obtained by applying a metal alkoxide as a precursor to the substrate and peeling it off after forming on the substrate. It is known to be difficult. The mica flakes in the present invention may be natural mica flakes or synthetic mica flakes. Among them, synthetic mica flakes have high transparency and are particularly preferable for application to the present invention.
 本発明における合成雲母フレークは、雲母中の所謂、不純物の含有量に基づいて天然雲母フレークと区別できる。即ち、合成雲母フレークは、透明性を損なう着色の原因となるFeの含有量が雲母フレークの質量に対して0.1%未満のものとして特定される。雲母フレークにおけるFeの含有量は、一般に、蛍光X線等により測定することができる。
 本発明における特定形状の雲母フレークは、市販の雲母フレークを公知の手法によって層状に剥離し、更に分級していくことで得られる。
The synthetic mica flakes in the present invention can be distinguished from natural mica flakes based on the so-called impurity content in the mica. That is, the synthetic mica flakes are specified as those having an Fe content of less than 0.1% with respect to the mass of the mica flakes, which causes coloring that impairs transparency. In general, the content of Fe in mica flakes can be measured by fluorescent X-rays or the like.
The mica flakes having a specific shape in the present invention can be obtained by separating commercially available mica flakes in a layered manner by a known method and further classifying them.
 本発明における複合粉体の被覆層は、雲母フレークの表面を被覆し、且つ前記雲母フレーク(屈折率:1.58)より高い屈折率を有するものである。
 ここで被覆層を形成する化合物は、薄膜干渉の原理によって可視域の広い波長領域で高い反射率を得ることを目的とするため、雲母フレークより高い屈折率を実現するものであればよい。この場合の屈折率は、一般に、屈折率既知の基準板上に薄膜を形成した際の反射率測定やエリプソメーター測定から計算された値を基準とする。このように測定した場合に、雲母フレークの屈折率が例えば1.58であった場合、被覆層の屈折率は1.58より高く、2.00以上が好ましく、2.20以上がより好ましく、2.40以上が更に好ましい。
The coating layer of the composite powder in the present invention covers the surface of mica flakes and has a higher refractive index than the mica flakes (refractive index: 1.58).
Here, the compound forming the coating layer is only required to have a higher refractive index than the mica flakes in order to obtain a high reflectance in a wavelength region having a wide visible range by the principle of thin film interference. The refractive index in this case is generally based on a value calculated from reflectance measurement or ellipsometer measurement when a thin film is formed on a reference plate with a known refractive index. When measured in this way, if the refractive index of the mica flakes is 1.58, for example, the refractive index of the coating layer is higher than 1.58, preferably 2.00 or higher, more preferably 2.20 or higher, 2.40 or more is more preferable.
 このような被覆層としては、金属酸化物を主成分として含むものであることが好ましい。このような金属酸化物には、例えば酸化チタン(アナタース型二酸化チタン:屈折率2.52、ルチル型二酸化チタン:屈折率2.71)、酸化ジルコニウム(屈折率2.40)、酸化スズ、酸化亜鉛(屈折率1.95)等、又はこれらの2種以上の組み合わせを挙げることができる。中でも、より高屈折率であることから、酸化チタン、酸化スズ及び酸化亜鉛から選ばれる少なくとも一つの金属酸化物を主成分とすることが好ましく、雲母フレークと比較して屈折率が特に高い酸化チタンが最も好ましい。
 なお、金属酸化物を主成分として含むとは、被覆層を主体的に構成する成分が金属酸化物であることを意味し、例えば、総質量に対して金属酸化物の質量が少なくとも90質量%以上、特に95質量%以上、含まれる場合をいう。
Such a coating layer preferably contains a metal oxide as a main component. Examples of such metal oxides include titanium oxide (anatase type titanium dioxide: refractive index 2.52, rutile type titanium dioxide: refractive index 2.71), zirconium oxide (refractive index 2.40), tin oxide, and oxidation. Zinc (refractive index 1.95) or the like, or a combination of two or more thereof can be given. Among them, since it has a higher refractive index, it is preferable that the main component is at least one metal oxide selected from titanium oxide, tin oxide, and zinc oxide, and titanium oxide having a particularly high refractive index compared to mica flakes. Is most preferred.
The term “containing a metal oxide as a main component” means that the component mainly constituting the coating layer is a metal oxide. For example, the mass of the metal oxide is at least 90% by mass with respect to the total mass. Above, especially the case where 95 mass% or more is contained is said.
 雲母フレークを被覆層で被覆する方法は、湿式法及び蒸着法などとして知られているいずれの方法でもよい。例えば、沸騰温度で硫酸酸性オキシ硫酸チタンを加水分解する方法(例えば、特公昭43-25644)や、四塩化チタンの加水分解法(例えば、特公昭49-3824)が、一般に知られている。これらの方法で、例えば、酸化チタン前駆体を被覆した後、700~1000℃で熱処理することによって、安定で密度の大きい酸化チタン被覆層となり得る。 The method for coating the mica flakes with the coating layer may be any method known as a wet method or a vapor deposition method. For example, a method for hydrolyzing acidic sulfuric acid titanium oxysulfate at a boiling temperature (for example, JP-B 43-25644) and a method for hydrolyzing titanium tetrachloride (for example, JP-B 49-3824) are generally known. By these methods, for example, by coating a titanium oxide precursor and then heat-treating at 700 to 1000 ° C., a stable and high-density titanium oxide coating layer can be obtained.
 被覆層の被覆平均厚みは、粉体の反射率向上の観点から25nm~90nmであることが好ましい。平均厚みが25nm以上であれば粉体の反射率増加を充分に期待することができ、一方、平均厚みが90nm以下であれば、反射スペクトルの極大と極小を与える波長が充分に離れるため、可視光全体の波長領域での平均反射率の低下を抑制することができる。被覆層の平均厚みは、被覆層を構成する化合物が酸化チタンである場合には、40nm~60nmであることが更に好ましい。
 ここで、粉体間での被覆層の平均厚みの分布は小さいほど好ましい。上記の公知の方法によって、粉体間の被覆層の平均厚みの分布は、その標準偏差を平均厚みで割った値に100をかけて算出した値で10%以下、より厳密に行えば5%以下にすることができ、薄膜干渉による複合粉体の反射率向上の効果を発揮することができることが知られている。
The coating average thickness of the coating layer is preferably 25 nm to 90 nm from the viewpoint of improving the reflectance of the powder. If the average thickness is 25 nm or more, a sufficient increase in the reflectance of the powder can be expected. On the other hand, if the average thickness is 90 nm or less, the wavelength that gives the maximum and minimum of the reflection spectrum is sufficiently separated from each other. A decrease in average reflectance in the wavelength region of the entire light can be suppressed. The average thickness of the coating layer is more preferably 40 nm to 60 nm when the compound constituting the coating layer is titanium oxide.
Here, the distribution of the average thickness of the coating layer between the powders is preferably as small as possible. According to the above known method, the average thickness distribution of the coating layer between the powders is 10% or less calculated by multiplying the standard deviation divided by the average thickness by 100, more strictly 5%. It is known that the effect of improving the reflectance of the composite powder by thin film interference can be exhibited.
 複合粉体の基板となる雲母自体が巨視的に白色である場合、上記被覆層の平均厚みが40nmより小さい時は、得られる複合粉体は、厚み透明性の高い白色である。被覆層の平均厚みが40~60nmになると、複合粉体は透明性の高い銀色となり、さらに、被覆層の平均厚みを160nmまで順次増すと、黄色、赤色、赤紫色、青色、緑色の透明感を有する着色(干渉色)が認められる。さらに被覆層の平均厚みを増すと、黄金色、赤色、赤紫色、青色、緑色の同じ色が繰り返し認められる。
 本発明に係る雲母は、基板単体でも、干渉効果と厚み分布制御によって銀色~黄金色に着色しているため、被覆層の平均厚みが40~60nmでは、複合粉体はやや黄味がかった銀色~黄金色となり、彩度の低減を起こさずに明度を向上でき、最も好ましく用いられる。
When the mica itself that is the substrate of the composite powder is macroscopically white, when the average thickness of the coating layer is less than 40 nm, the resulting composite powder is white with high thickness transparency. When the average thickness of the coating layer is 40 to 60 nm, the composite powder becomes highly transparent silver. Further, when the average thickness of the coating layer is gradually increased to 160 nm, the transparency of yellow, red, magenta, blue and green is improved. Coloring (interference color) having a color is recognized. Further, when the average thickness of the coating layer is increased, the same colors of golden, red, magenta, blue and green are repeatedly observed.
The mica according to the present invention is colored silver to golden by interference effect and thickness distribution control even on a single substrate, so that the composite powder has a slightly yellowish silver color when the average thickness of the coating layer is 40 to 60 nm. ~ Golden color, lightness can be improved without causing reduction in saturation, and is most preferably used.
 これら着色は、一般にファンデーション等に広く使用されている酸化チタン被覆雲母のそれとは明確に異なり、より透明感と高い反射率、および鮮やかな干渉色が認められる。その理由として、雲母フレーク自身が厚みを制御された光学薄膜干渉による干渉色を有することが挙げられる。 These colors are clearly different from those of titanium oxide-coated mica, which is generally widely used for foundations and the like, and a more transparent feeling, higher reflectance, and bright interference colors are recognized. The reason is that mica flakes themselves have an interference color due to optical thin film interference whose thickness is controlled.
 本発明における複合粉体は、上述した雲母フレークと被覆層とからなるものであり、上述したような高い透明感や発色性、および高反射率を示すものである。
 複合粉体全体の平均厚み(総平均厚み)は、上記の雲母フレークの平均厚みに被覆層の平均厚みの二倍を足した値となるため、上記雲母フレークの厚みの最適な厚みの範囲と被覆層の最適な厚みの範囲より決まる。従って、複合粉体の総平均厚みは、100nm~330nmが好ましく、120nm~300nmであることがより好ましく、150nm~240nmであることが更に好ましい。
The composite powder in the present invention comprises the above-described mica flakes and a coating layer, and exhibits high transparency, color developability, and high reflectance as described above.
The average thickness of the composite powder as a whole (total average thickness) is a value obtained by adding twice the average thickness of the coating layer to the average thickness of the mica flakes. It is determined from the optimum thickness range of the coating layer. Accordingly, the total average thickness of the composite powder is preferably 100 nm to 330 nm, more preferably 120 nm to 300 nm, and still more preferably 150 nm to 240 nm.
 本発明における複合粉体は、雲母フレークとして70nm~120nmの平均厚み及び100~300のアスペクト比を有すると共に、平均厚み(μ)と標準偏差(σ)がσ/μ≦0.3である雲母フレークと、40nm~60nmの平均厚みの被覆層とからなり、更に、複合粉体の総平均厚みが150nm~240nmのものであることが、明度及び彩度と、化粧料としたときの仕上がりの観点より、特に好ましい。 The composite powder according to the present invention has mica flakes having an average thickness of 70 nm to 120 nm and an aspect ratio of 100 to 300, and an average thickness (μ) and standard deviation (σ) of σ / μ ≦ 0.3. It is composed of flakes and a coating layer having an average thickness of 40 nm to 60 nm, and the total average thickness of the composite powder is 150 nm to 240 nm. From the viewpoint, it is particularly preferable.
 本発明の化粧料は、上記の被覆層を備えた雲母フレークからなる複合粉体を含有する化粧料である。
 本化粧料は、上記のように、高い透明感や着色性および高反射率の複合粉体を含むので、可視光透明性が高く、高い明度と彩度が両立し、特にファンデーション等として用いた場合に明るく、鮮やかな仕上がりの製品となり得る。
The cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic containing a composite powder composed of mica flakes having the above coating layer.
As described above, since this cosmetic contains a composite powder having high transparency, colorability and high reflectance, it has high visible light transparency, high brightness and saturation, and is used particularly as a foundation. In some cases, it can be a bright and vivid product.
 本発明の化粧料における複合粉体の配合量としては、その目的とする化粧料の種類により異なるが、顔料等の固体成分の全質量に対して1~80質量%の範囲で用いられ、好ましくは2~50質量%、より好ましくは5~30質量%の範囲とし得る。1質量%以上とすれば、明度、彩度と発色性も充分期待できる。一方、80質量%以下であれば、他の添加剤による充分な添加効果、例えば、色調変更、製剤容易化又は皮膚への付着性向上を充分に得ることができる。なお、本発明において「固体成分」とは、25℃、1気圧において固体である成分を意味する。 The compounding amount of the composite powder in the cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the type of the intended cosmetic, but is preferably used in the range of 1 to 80% by mass with respect to the total mass of solid components such as pigments. May be in the range of 2-50% by weight, more preferably 5-30% by weight. If the content is 1% by mass or more, brightness, saturation and color developability can be sufficiently expected. On the other hand, if it is 80 mass% or less, sufficient addition effects by other additives, for example, change in color tone, ease of preparation, or improvement in adhesion to the skin can be sufficiently obtained. In the present invention, the “solid component” means a component that is solid at 25 ° C. and 1 atm.
 本発明の化粧料には、上記複合粉体の他、必要に応じ、通常用いられている顔料等を併用することができる。例えば、酸化チタン、酸化亜鉛、酸化ジルコニウム、黄色酸化鉄、黒色酸化鉄、弁柄、群青、紺青等の無機顔料;雲母チタン、オキシ塩化ビスマス等の真珠光沢顔料;タール色素、天然色素、シリカビーズ、ナイロン、アクリル、ウレタン等のプラスチックビーズ等の粉体;タルク、カオリン、マイカ、セリサイト等の体質顔料;その他の雲母類、炭酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、珪酸アルミニウム、珪酸マグネシウム、クレー類等が例示される。これらの物質を、単独で又は2種以上を組み合わせて使用してもよい。 In the cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above composite powder, a commonly used pigment or the like can be used in combination as necessary. For example, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, petal, ultramarine, bitumen, and other inorganic pigments; pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium and bismuth oxychloride; tar dyes, natural dyes, silica beads Powders such as plastic beads such as nylon, acrylic and urethane; extender pigments such as talc, kaolin, mica and sericite; other mica, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, clays, etc. Is done. You may use these substances individually or in combination of 2 or more types.
 また、本発明の化粧料中での複合粉体の分散性を向上させたり、感触を良好にするために、複合粉体に表面処理を施して、改質することは何等差し支えない。例えば、公知のフッ素含有表面処理剤、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン、反応性アルキルポリシロキサン、金属石鹸の他、水素添加レシチン、アシルアミノ酸、アシル化コラーゲンのアルミニウム、マグネシウム、カルシウム、チタン、亜鉛、ジルコニウム、鉄より選ばれた金属塩等の、いわゆる疎水化剤で表面処理を行うと、金属酸化物被覆層の表面は親水性から疎水性に変わるため、化粧料の調合時に添加する油剤との馴染みを良くしたり、撥水性を付与できるために化粧崩れを低減したりできる。 Also, in order to improve the dispersibility of the composite powder in the cosmetic of the present invention and to improve the feel, the composite powder may be subjected to surface treatment and modified. For example, known fluorine-containing surface treatment agent, methyl hydrogen polysiloxane, reactive alkyl polysiloxane, metal soap, hydrogenated lecithin, acylamino acid, acylated collagen aluminum, magnesium, calcium, titanium, zinc, zirconium, When a surface treatment is performed with a so-called hydrophobizing agent such as a metal salt selected from iron, the surface of the metal oxide coating layer changes from hydrophilic to hydrophobic. It is possible to improve the makeup and to impart water repellency, thereby reducing makeup collapse.
 本発明の化粧料には、上記の粉体成分の他に、必要に応じて本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で、通常の化粧料に配合される成分、例えば各種オイル、界面活性剤、水溶性高分子、他の粉体、保湿剤、防腐剤、薬剤、紫外線吸収剤、色素、無機塩又は有機酸塩、香料、キレート剤、pH調整剤、水等を配合することができる。 In addition to the above powder components, the cosmetics of the present invention include components blended in ordinary cosmetics, for example, various oils, surfactants, water-soluble substances, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired as necessary. A functional polymer, other powders, humectants, preservatives, drugs, ultraviolet absorbers, dyes, inorganic salts or organic acid salts, fragrances, chelating agents, pH adjusters, water and the like.
 オイルとしては、例えば流動パラフィン、ワセリン、パラフィンワックス、スクワラン、ミツロウ、カルナウバロウ、オリーブ油、ラノリン、高級アルコール、脂肪酸、高級脂肪酸、エステル油、セレシン、マイクロクリスタリンワックス、キャンデリラロウ、ジグリセライド、トリグリセライド、シリコーン油、パーフルオロポリエーテル、パーフルオロデカリン、パーフルオロオクタン、ホホバ油、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、ジオクタン酸ネオペンチルグリコール等の化粧料に汎用される油分が用いられる。界面活性剤としては、例えばポリオキシエチレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、グリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレングリセリン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンソルビトール脂肪酸エステル等の非イオン性界面活性剤;ステアリン酸ナトリウム、パルミチン酸トリエタノールアミン等の脂肪酸石鹸で代表されるアニオン性界面活性剤;及びカチオン性界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤等の化粧料に汎用される界面活性剤が用いられる。水溶性高分子としては、例えばカルボキシメチルセルロース、メチルセルロース、ヒドロキシメチルセルロース、ポリビニルアルコール、ポリビニルピロリドン、トラガントガム、カラギーナン、ローカストビーンガム、デキストリン、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル、カルボキシビニルポリマー、キサンタンガム、ゼラチン、アルギン酸ナトリウム、アラビアゴム等の化粧料に汎用される水溶性高分子が用いられる。 Examples of the oil include liquid paraffin, petrolatum, paraffin wax, squalane, beeswax, carnauba wax, olive oil, lanolin, higher alcohol, fatty acid, higher fatty acid, ester oil, ceresin, microcrystalline wax, candelilla wax, diglyceride, triglyceride, silicone oil. Oils commonly used in cosmetics such as perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecalin, perfluorooctane, jojoba oil, octyldodecyl myristate, and neopentyl glycol dioctanoate are used. Examples of the surfactant include polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene Nonionic surfactants such as oxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters; anionic surfactants typified by fatty acid soaps such as sodium stearate and triethanolamine palmitate; and cationic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants Surfactants that are widely used in cosmetics are used. Examples of water-soluble polymers include carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, tragacanth gum, carrageenan, locust bean gum, dextrin, dextrin fatty acid ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, xanthan gum, gelatin, sodium alginate, gum arabic, etc. Water-soluble polymers widely used in cosmetics are used.
 保湿剤としては、例えばソルビトール、キシリトール、グリセリン、マルチトール、プロピレングリコール、1,3-ブチレングリコール、1,4-ブチレングリコール、ピロリドンカルボン酸ナトリウム、乳酸、乳酸ナトリウム、ポリエチレングリコール等の化粧料に汎用される保湿剤が用いられる。防腐剤としては、例えばパラオキシ安息香酸アルキルエステル、安息香酸ナトリウム、ソルビン酸カリウム等の化粧料に汎用される防腐剤が用いられる。薬剤としては、例えばビタミン類、生薬、消炎剤、殺菌剤等の化粧料に汎用される薬剤が用いられる。紫外線吸収剤としては、例えばパラアミノ安息香酸系紫外線吸収剤、アントラニル系紫外線吸収剤、サリチル酸系紫外線吸収剤、桂皮酸系紫外線吸収剤、ベンゾフェノン系紫外線吸収剤等の化粧料に汎用される紫外線吸収剤が用いられる。 As a humectant, it is widely used in cosmetics such as sorbitol, xylitol, glycerin, maltitol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, lactic acid, sodium lactate, polyethylene glycol, etc. Moisturizers are used. As the preservative, for example, a preservative widely used in cosmetics such as paraoxybenzoic acid alkyl ester, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate and the like is used. As the drug, for example, drugs commonly used in cosmetics such as vitamins, herbal medicines, anti-inflammatory agents, and bactericides are used. Examples of UV absorbers include UV absorbers commonly used in cosmetics such as paraaminobenzoic UV absorbers, anthranyl UV absorbers, salicylic acid UV absorbers, cinnamic acid UV absorbers, and benzophenone UV absorbers. Is used.
 色素としては、例えば赤色3号、赤色104号、赤色106号、赤色201号、赤色202号、赤色204号、赤色205号、赤色220号、赤色226号、赤色227号、赤色228号、赤色230号、赤色401号、赤色505号、黄色4号、黄色5号、黄色202号、黄色203号、黄色204号、黄色401号、青色1号、青色2号、青色201号、青色404号、緑色3号、緑色201号、緑色204号、緑色205号、橙色201号、橙色203号、橙色204号、橙色206号、橙色207号等のタール色素;カルミン酸、ラッカイン酸、ブラジリン、クロシン等の天然色素等の化粧料に汎用される色素が用いられる。 Examples of the dye include Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228, Red 230, Red 401, Red 505, Yellow 4, Yellow 5, Yellow 202, Yellow 203, Yellow 204, Yellow 401, Blue 1, Blue 2, Blue 201, Blue 404 Tar dyes such as Green No. 3, Green No. 201, Green No. 204, Green No. 205, Orange No. 201, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 206, Orange No. 207; Carminic acid, laccaic acid, bradylin, crocin A commonly used pigment for cosmetics such as natural pigments is used.
 無機塩又は有機酸塩としては、塩酸、硫酸、硝酸等の無機酸;クエン酸、酒石酸、乳酸、リンゴ酸等のオキシカルボン酸;ギ酸、酢酸、ソルビン酸等のカルボン酸;又はサリチル酸、安息香酸等の芳香族カルボン酸のアルカリ金属塩、アルカリ土類金属塩又はアルミニウム塩が挙げられる。 Examples of inorganic salts or organic acid salts include inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and nitric acid; oxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid and malic acid; carboxylic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid and sorbic acid; or salicylic acid and benzoic acid An alkali metal salt, an alkaline earth metal salt or an aluminum salt of an aromatic carboxylic acid such as
 好ましい無機塩又は有機酸塩の具体例としては、硫酸カリウム、硫酸ナトリウム、硫酸マグネシウム、硫酸アルミニウム、硝酸カリウム、硝酸ナトリウム、硝酸マグネシウム、硝酸アルミニウム、硝酸カルシウム、塩化カリウム、塩化マグネシウム、塩化ナトリウム、塩化カルシウム、塩化アルミニウム、炭酸カリウム、炭酸ナトリウム、炭酸アルミニウム、酢酸カリウム、酢酸ナトリウム、酢酸カルシウム、酢酸マグネシウム、ギ酸ナトリウム、ギ酸カリウム、ギ酸マグネシウム、クエン酸ナトリウム、酒石酸ナトリウム、ソルビン酸カリウム、ソルビン酸ナトリウム、サリチル酸ナトリウム、安息香酸カリウム、安息香酸ナトリウム等が挙げられ、特に硫酸カリウム、硫酸マグネシウム、塩化カリウム、塩化マグネシウム、塩化アルミニウム、クエン酸ナトリウム、酒石酸ナトリウム、ソルビン酸カリウム、サリチル酸ナトリウム及び安息香酸ナトリウムが好ましい。 Specific examples of preferred inorganic salts or organic acid salts include potassium sulfate, sodium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, aluminum sulfate, potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, aluminum nitrate, calcium nitrate, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium chloride, calcium chloride. , Aluminum chloride, potassium carbonate, sodium carbonate, aluminum carbonate, potassium acetate, sodium acetate, calcium acetate, magnesium acetate, sodium formate, potassium formate, magnesium formate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, potassium sorbate, sodium sorbate, salicylic acid Sodium, potassium benzoate, sodium benzoate, etc., especially potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, aluminum chloride Um, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, potassium sorbate, sodium salicylate and sodium benzoate preferred.
 これらの無機塩又は有機酸塩は、塩の状態で本発明組成物中に配合してもよいが、本発明の化粧料の製造時において、対応する酸物質及び塩基物質を、塩を形成するのに必要な化学量論的量で加えてもよい。また、水は任意の量で配合することができる。 These inorganic salts or organic acid salts may be incorporated into the composition of the present invention in the form of a salt, but when the cosmetic of the present invention is produced, the corresponding acid substance and base substance form a salt. It may be added in the stoichiometric amount necessary for this. Moreover, water can be mix | blended in arbitrary quantity.
 本発明の化粧料は、上述したように明度と彩度とが共に良好であるため、これを含む種々の形態の化粧料として使用可能である。このような化粧料としては、例えばパウダーファンデーション、油性ファンデーション、クリーム状ファンデーション、リキッドファンデーション、コンシーラー等のなどのファンデーションや化粧下地、フェイスパウダー等に好ましく用いられる他、口紅、頬紅等のポイントメイク化粧料などに用いることができる。 Since the cosmetic of the present invention has good brightness and saturation as described above, it can be used as various types of cosmetics including the cosmetic. Such cosmetics are preferably used for foundations such as powder foundations, oily foundations, creamy foundations, liquid foundations, concealers, etc., makeup bases, face powders, etc., and point makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks and blushers Can be used.
 本発明の化粧料は、彩度、明度が共に良好であるので、化粧下地やファンデーション等のいずれの用途に適用しても、くすみを低減し、明るい透明感のある良好な仕上がりを提供することができる。 Since the cosmetics of the present invention have good saturation and lightness, they can reduce dullness and provide a good finish with a bright transparency when applied to any application such as a makeup base or foundation. Can do.
 以下、本発明を実施例にて詳細に説明する。しかしながら、本発明はそれらに何ら限定されるものではない。なお、特に断りのない限り、「部」は質量基準である。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited to them. Unless otherwise specified, “part” is based on mass.
[実施例1~9、比較例1~5]
<複合粉体の作製>
 以下の方法により、表1に記載の各種複合粉体を作製した。
[Examples 1 to 9, Comparative Examples 1 to 5]
<Production of composite powder>
Various composite powders listed in Table 1 were prepared by the following method.
 市販の合成金雲母フレークを市販の粉砕機によって粉砕し、更に分級することによって表1に記載された所望の厚み、アスペクト比を有する合成雲母フレークを得た。厚みの調整は粉砕条件を変えて試行錯誤を繰り返すことによって調整した。厚み分布の調整は分級条件を変えて調整した。 Commercial synthetic phlogopite flakes were pulverized with a commercial pulverizer and further classified to obtain synthetic mica flakes having the desired thickness and aspect ratio shown in Table 1. The thickness was adjusted by repeating trial and error while changing the grinding conditions. The thickness distribution was adjusted by changing the classification conditions.
 平均厚みは、各平板状粉体の超薄切片の透過電子顕微鏡写真を100個の粉体についてそれぞれ10ヶ所ずつ撮影してそれぞれの厚みを測定し、1000箇所での厚みの平均値(μ)を用いた。また、厚み分布は、上記1000の厚みの値と平均厚み(μ)より標準偏差(σ)を算出し、σ/μの値として評価した。 The average thickness was measured by measuring 10 thicknesses of 100 pieces of transmission electron micrographs of ultrathin sections of each plate-like powder, and measuring the thicknesses. The average thickness (μ) at 1000 locations. Was used. In addition, the thickness distribution was evaluated as a value of σ / μ by calculating a standard deviation (σ) from the thickness value of 1000 and the average thickness (μ).
 具体的には、市販の合成金雲母として入手可能な厚みの薄いものを購入し、更に粉砕、分級することで作製した。すなわち、PDM-40L(トピー工業(株)製、粒径40μ、平均厚み290nmの合成金雲母)を市販の粉砕機によって粉砕した後に分級し、表1に記載された所望の厚み、アスペクト比を有する合成雲母フレークを得た。 Specifically, it was prepared by purchasing a thin product available as a commercially available synthetic phlogopite, and further grinding and classifying it. That is, PDM-40L (manufactured by Topy Industries, Ltd., synthetic phlogopite with a particle size of 40 μm and an average thickness of 290 nm) was pulverized by a commercially available pulverizer and classified, and the desired thickness and aspect ratio described in Table 1 were obtained. Synthetic mica flakes having were obtained.
 実施例および比較例の雲母の屈折率については文献値を用いた。被覆層の屈折率については、別途、屈折率既知の光学ガラス(BK-7、屈折率=1.510)上に100nmの厚みで薄膜を形成し、反射スペクトルを測定してフィッティングすることで測定した。
 アスペクト比は、各平板状粉体を支持基板上に水平に並ぶように伸ばして散布したものを走査電子顕微鏡によって撮影した写真から100個の粉体について上から見た大きさ(縦、横の平均値)を計測し、100個の粉体の平均値を前記方法で算出した厚みの平均値で割った値を用いた。
Literature values were used for the refractive indexes of the mica of Examples and Comparative Examples. The refractive index of the coating layer is separately measured by forming a thin film with a thickness of 100 nm on optical glass with a known refractive index (BK-7, refractive index = 1.510), measuring the reflection spectrum, and fitting. did.
The aspect ratio is the size (vertical and horizontal) of 100 powders taken from a photograph taken with a scanning electron microscope of flat plate powders spread and dispersed horizontally on a support substrate. (Average value) was measured, and a value obtained by dividing the average value of 100 powders by the average value of thicknesses calculated by the above method was used.
 被覆層は特開平09-71417に記載の公知の湿式法により形成した。すなわち、合成雲母フレークを分散した分散液中に、酸化チタン前駆体(オキシ硫酸チタン水溶液と硫酸)を添加した後に加熱、攪拌してろ過、洗浄、乾燥し、前駆体を高温(1000℃)で加熱処理して、酸化チタン被覆層を形成した。
 被覆層の平均厚みは、複合粉体の平均厚みについて合成雲母フレークの平均厚みを測定したときと同様に透過電子顕微鏡写真観察より測定して、複合粉体の平均厚みと合成雲母フレークの平均厚みから求めた。複合粉体の被覆層の厚みの分布は、別途、厚み100nmの超薄切片を作製し、透過型電子顕微鏡にて10個の粉体について10視野ずつ被覆厚みを測定した。その標準偏差を平均厚みで割った値に100をかけて算出した値は全て10%以下であった。
The coating layer was formed by a known wet method described in JP-A-09-71417. That is, after adding a titanium oxide precursor (titanium oxysulfate aqueous solution and sulfuric acid) to a dispersion in which synthetic mica flakes are dispersed, heating, stirring, filtering, washing and drying are performed, and the precursor is heated at a high temperature (1000 ° C.). Heat treatment was performed to form a titanium oxide coating layer.
The average thickness of the coating layer was measured by observation with a transmission electron micrograph in the same manner as when measuring the average thickness of the synthetic mica flakes with respect to the average thickness of the composite powder, and the average thickness of the composite powder and the average thickness of the synthetic mica flakes. I asked for it. Regarding the distribution of the coating layer thickness of the composite powder, an ultra-thin slice having a thickness of 100 nm was separately prepared, and the coating thickness was measured for each of 10 fields with 10 transmission powders using a transmission electron microscope. The values calculated by multiplying the standard deviation divided by the average thickness by 100 were all 10% or less.
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000001
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000001
<パウダーファンデーションの調製>
 下記に記載のA相、B相の各成分(数値は質量部)を別個に秤量し、ヘンシェルミキサーにて色材が色伸びするまで十分に混合して実施例1~9、および比較例1~4のパウダーファンデーションを調製した。A相中の複合粉体の種類は、それぞれ表1に記載のものを使用した。
<Preparation of powder foundation>
Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Example 1 were prepared by weighing each of the components of A phase and B phase described below (numerical values are parts by mass) and mixing them thoroughly with a Henschel mixer until the color material was elongated. ~ 4 powder foundations were prepared. The types of composite powder in the A phase were those listed in Table 1, respectively.
 A相
  セリサイト         47.1部
  タルク           21.2部
  酸化チタン          9.0部
  酸化鉄(黄色)        1.8部
  酸化鉄(赤色)        0.54部
  酸化鉄(黒色)        0.27部
  複合粉体(表1)      10.0部
  メチルパラベン        0.09部
 B相
  ジメチコン(及び)トリメチルシロキシシリケート
                 2.985部
  ジメチコン(20cs)    7.0部
  トコフェロール        0.005部
  フェノキシエタノール     0.01部
Phase A Sericite 47.1 parts Talc 21.2 parts Titanium oxide 9.0 parts Iron oxide (yellow) 1.8 parts Iron oxide (red) 0.54 parts Iron oxide (black) 0.27 parts Composite powder ( Table 1) 10.0 parts Methyl paraben 0.09 parts Phase B dimethicone (and) trimethylsiloxysilicate 2.985 parts dimethicone (20 cs) 7.0 parts tocopherol 0.005 parts phenoxyethanol 0.01 part
<比較例5>
 上記表1中の複合粉体10.0部をセリサイト6.9部およびタルク3.1部に置き換えた以外は実施例1と同様にして、比較例5のファンデーション(ベース処方)を調製した。
<Comparative Example 5>
A foundation (base formulation) of Comparative Example 5 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 10.0 parts of the composite powder in Table 1 were replaced with 6.9 parts of sericite and 3.1 parts of talc. .
<ファンデーション塗布>
 市販の肌色シミシート(バイオプレート(ビューラックス(株)製)。肌色標準色の背景中に、正常部分及びシミ部分に相当する5段階の濃度の異なる濃い肌色の円形部を有するシート)上に、実施例1~9および比較例1~5の各ファンデーションを0.3(g/cm)の塗布量で均一に塗布し、試料を得た。
<Foundation application>
On a commercially available skin color stain sheet (Bioplate (manufactured by Beaulux Co., Ltd.). In the background of the skin color standard color, a sheet having a dark skin color circular portion having different concentrations of 5 levels corresponding to the normal portion and the stain portion) The foundations of Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were uniformly applied at a coating amount of 0.3 (g / cm 3 ) to obtain samples.
 <ファンデーション評価>
 上記肌色シミシート上に各ファンデーションを塗布した各試料の正常部分の肌色を、色彩色差計CR-400(コニカミノルタセンシング(株)製)にて測色し、C光源での明度L*、a*、b*、および彩度C*を得た。
 続いて、各試料のシミ部分を測色し、シミ部分で得られた値と、正常部分で得られた値との色差ΔE*abを、下記式により算出した。5段階のシミの内で最も濃いシミ(シミ-1)および次に濃いシミ(シミ-2)に対して得られた値を、カバー力の評価とした。また、同シートに対するカバー力を、目視にて、5段階評価(比較例5を3点、未塗布を0点)にて評価した。それぞれの結果を表2に示す。
  色差(ΔE*ab) = {(ΔL)+(Δa)+(Δb) }1/2
<Foundation evaluation>
The skin color of the normal part of each sample coated with each foundation on the above skin color stain sheet is measured with a color difference meter CR-400 (manufactured by Konica Minolta Sensing Co., Ltd.), and the brightness L *, a * with a C light source is measured. , B *, and chroma C * were obtained.
Subsequently, the spot portion of each sample was measured, and the color difference ΔE * ab between the value obtained at the spot portion and the value obtained at the normal portion was calculated by the following equation. The value obtained for the darkest spot (spot-1) and the next darkest spot (spot-2) among the five stages of spots was used as the evaluation of the covering power. Moreover, the covering force with respect to the sheet was visually evaluated by a five-step evaluation (comparative example 5 was 3 points and uncoated was 0 points). The results are shown in Table 2.
Color difference (ΔE * ab) = {(ΔL) 2 + (Δa) 2 + (Δb) 2 } 1/2
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000002

 
Figure JPOXMLDOC01-appb-T000002

 
 表2に示されるように、実施例1~9はいずれも、明度及び彩度がいずれも良好で、明るく、鮮やかな仕上がりのものであり、且つカバー力も高いことがわかる。特に実施例5、6、7は明度と彩度が共に高く、明るく鮮やかな仕上がりであることがわかる。
 これに対して、雲母フレークの厚みが大きい比較例1~3では、このような明度、彩度を高いレベルで両立できないことは明らかであり、厚み分布の狭いガラスフレークを使用しても彩度が低く(比較例4参照)、本発明の効果が得られないことがわかる。
As shown in Table 2, it can be seen that Examples 1 to 9 all have good brightness and saturation, a bright and vivid finish, and high covering power. In particular, it can be seen that Examples 5, 6, and 7 have both high brightness and saturation, and are bright and vivid.
On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 to 3 where the thickness of mica flakes is large, it is clear that such lightness and saturation cannot be achieved at a high level, and even if glass flakes having a narrow thickness distribution are used, saturation is not achieved. (See Comparative Example 4), it can be seen that the effects of the present invention cannot be obtained.
[実施例10~18、比較例6~10]
 下記に記載のA相、B相、およびC相の各成分を別個に秤量した。なおA相中の複合粉体の種類は、それぞれ表1に記載のものを使用した。ホモミキサーの容器中にB相を添加し、攪拌しながらA相を徐々に添加した後、容器を80℃まで加熱してB相中の成分が全て溶融するまで攪拌した。別途、C相を添加した容器も80℃まで加熱して、全ての成分が溶解するまで攪拌した。続いてB相及びA相の混合物と、C相の水溶液とを共に50℃まで降温し、B相中に徐々にC相をホモミキサーにて攪拌しながら添加し、十分に乳化するまで攪拌して、実施例1~9のものと同一の複合粉体を含む実施例10~18の各リキッドファンデーションと、比較例1~5のものと同一の複合粉体を含む又は複合粉体を含まない比較例6~10の各リキッドファンデーションを調製した。
[Examples 10 to 18, Comparative Examples 6 to 10]
Each component of the A phase, B phase, and C phase described below was weighed separately. In addition, the kind of composite powder in A phase used the thing of Table 1, respectively. Phase B was added to the container of the homomixer, and phase A was gradually added while stirring, and then the container was heated to 80 ° C. and stirred until all the components in phase B were melted. Separately, the container to which Phase C was added was also heated to 80 ° C. and stirred until all components were dissolved. Subsequently, the mixture of the B phase and the A phase and the aqueous solution of the C phase are both cooled to 50 ° C., and the C phase is gradually added to the B phase while stirring with a homomixer and stirred until it is sufficiently emulsified. Each of the liquid foundations of Examples 10 to 18 including the same composite powder as that of Examples 1 to 9 and the same composite powder as that of Comparative Examples 1 to 5 are included or no composite powder is included. Each liquid foundation of Comparative Examples 6 to 10 was prepared.
 A相
  タルク            3.9部
  酸化チタン          9.6部
  酸化鉄(黄色)        0.8部
  酸化鉄(赤色)        0.2部
  酸化鉄(黒色)        0.02部
  複合粉体(表1)       5.0部
 B相
  シクロメチコン        5.0部
  シクロメチコン(及び)ジメチコンコポリオール
                15.0部
  合成ワックス         0.10部
  アラキジルベヘネート     0.3部
  トリヒドロキシステアリン   0.4部
  フェニルトリメチコン     5.0部
  トリデシルイソノナノエート  5.0部
  ラウレス-7         0.5部
 C相
  脱イオン水         43.0部
  BG             8.0部
  NaCl           2.0部
  無水酢酸Na         0.3部
  フェノキシエタノール     0.2部
  EDTA-2Na       0.1部
Phase A Talc 3.9 parts Titanium oxide 9.6 parts Iron oxide (yellow) 0.8 parts Iron oxide (red) 0.2 parts Iron oxide (black) 0.02 parts Composite powder (Table 1) 5.0 Part B Phase Cyclomethicone 5.0 parts Cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone copolyol 15.0 parts Synthetic wax 0.10 parts Arachidyl behenate 0.3 parts Trihydroxystearin 0.4 parts Phenyl trimethicone 5.0 parts Tri Decylisononanoate 5.0 parts Laureth-7 0.5 part Phase C Deionized water 43.0 parts BG 8.0 parts NaCl 2.0 parts Na acetic anhydride 0.3 part Phenoxyethanol 0.2 part EDTA-2Na 0 .1 part
 実施例10~18および比較例6~10のリキッドファンデーションを、上記パウダーファンデーションと同様にして評価した。
 その結果、実施例10~18ファンデーションはいずれも明度及び彩度が高く良好であった。
 これに対して比較例6~9のファンデーション及び、複合粉体を含有しない汎用処方のリキッドファンデーション(比較例10)では、このような明度及び彩度の高いレベルでの両立が得られなかった。
The liquid foundations of Examples 10 to 18 and Comparative Examples 6 to 10 were evaluated in the same manner as the above powder foundation.
As a result, the foundations of Examples 10 to 18 were all excellent in lightness and saturation.
In contrast, the foundations of Comparative Examples 6 to 9 and the liquid foundation (Comparative Example 10) of a general-purpose prescription not containing a composite powder could not achieve such high levels of brightness and saturation.
[実施例19]
 実施例1~9のパウダーファンデーションのB相を用いない以外は実施例1~9と同様にして、フェイスパウダーを調製した。得られたフェイスパウダーについて、比較例10(複合粉体を含まない)のリキッドファンデーションベース処方を1.0(mg/cm)の塗布量で均一に塗布した表面に更に0.1(mg/cm)の塗布量で均一に塗布したサンプルを実施例1~9と同様に評価を行った。
 得られたフェイスパウダーは、実施例1~9のパウダーファンデーションと同様、明度と彩度に優れ、明るく鮮やかな仕上がりのものであった。
[Example 19]
Face powders were prepared in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 9, except that the B phase of the powder foundation of Examples 1 to 9 was not used. About the obtained face powder, the liquid foundation base formulation of Comparative Example 10 (not including the composite powder) was uniformly applied to the surface uniformly applied at a coating amount of 1.0 (mg / cm 3 ), and further 0.1 (mg / Samples uniformly coated with a coating amount of cm 3 ) were evaluated in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 9.
The obtained face powder, like the powder foundations of Examples 1 to 9, was excellent in brightness and saturation and had a bright and vivid finish.
 このように本発明によれば、明度及び彩度がいずれも良好で明るく鮮やかな仕上がりのファンデーションやフェイスパウダー等の好ましい化粧料を得ることができる。 Thus, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a preferable cosmetic such as a foundation or face powder having a bright and bright finish with both lightness and saturation being good.
 2009年7月30日に出願された日本国特許出願第2009-178258号の開示はその全体が参照により本明細書に取り込まれる。
 本明細書に記載された全ての文献、特許出願、および技術規格は、個々の文献、特許出願、および技術規格が参照により取り込まれることが具体的かつ個々に記された場合と同程度に、本明細書中に援用されて取り込まれる。
The disclosure of Japanese Patent Application No. 2009-178258 filed on July 30, 2009 is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
All documents, patent applications, and technical standards mentioned in this specification are to the same extent as if each individual document, patent application, and technical standard were specifically and individually described to be incorporated by reference, Incorporated herein by reference.

Claims (12)

  1.  50nm~200nmの範囲の平均厚みと5~1000の範囲のアスペクト比を有する雲母フレークと、
     前記雲母フレークの表面を被覆し、且つ前記雲母フレークより高い屈折率を有する被覆層と、
     からなる複合粉体を含有する化粧料。
    Mica flakes having an average thickness in the range of 50 nm to 200 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 5 to 1000;
    A coating layer covering the surface of the mica flakes and having a higher refractive index than the mica flakes;
    Cosmetics containing a composite powder consisting of
  2.  前記雲母フレークが50nm~150nmの範囲の平均厚みと10~400の範囲のアスペクト比を有する請求項1に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the mica flakes have an average thickness in the range of 50 nm to 150 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 10 to 400.
  3.  前記雲母フレークが70nm~120nmの範囲の平均厚みと10~300の範囲のアスペクト比を有する請求項1に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the mica flakes have an average thickness in the range of 70 nm to 120 nm and an aspect ratio in the range of 10 to 300.
  4.  前記雲母フレークの平均厚み(μ)と標準偏差(σ)とがσ/μ≦0.5を満たすものである請求項1~請求項3のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein an average thickness (μ) and standard deviation (σ) of the mica flakes satisfy σ / μ ≦ 0.5.
  5.  前記雲母フレークの平均厚み(μ)と標準偏差(σ)とがσ/μ≦0.3を満たすものである請求項1~請求項3のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein an average thickness (μ) and standard deviation (σ) of the mica flakes satisfy σ / μ ≦ 0.3.
  6.  前記被覆層の平均厚みが25nm~90nmの範囲である請求項1~請求項5のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein an average thickness of the coating layer is in a range of 25 nm to 90 nm.
  7.  前記複合粉体の平均厚みが100nm~300nmの範囲である請求項1~請求項6のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein an average thickness of the composite powder is in the range of 100 nm to 300 nm.
  8.  前記複合粉体が、
     70nm~120nmの平均厚み及び10~300のアスペクト比を有すると共に、平均厚み(μ)と標準偏差(σ)とがσ/μ≦0.3である前記雲母フレークと、
     40nm~60nmの平均厚みを有する前記被覆層と、
     からなり、前記複合粉体の総平均厚みが150nm~240nmである請求項1に記載の化粧料。
    The composite powder is
    The mica flakes having an average thickness of 70 nm to 120 nm and an aspect ratio of 10 to 300, and an average thickness (μ) and standard deviation (σ) of σ / μ ≦ 0.3;
    The coating layer having an average thickness of 40 nm to 60 nm;
    The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the composite powder has a total average thickness of 150 nm to 240 nm.
  9.  前記雲母フレークの平均粒径が、1μm~20μmである請求項1~請求項8のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the mica flake has an average particle diameter of 1 to 20 µm.
  10.  前記雲母フレークが合成雲母フレークである請求項1~請求項9のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the mica flakes are synthetic mica flakes.
  11.  前記被覆層が、酸化チタン、酸化スズ、酸化亜鉛及び酸化ジルコニウムからなる群より選ばれる少なくとも一つの金属酸化物を主成分として含む請求項1~請求項10のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the coating layer contains, as a main component, at least one metal oxide selected from the group consisting of titanium oxide, tin oxide, zinc oxide, and zirconium oxide. .
  12. ファンデーション、化粧下地又はフェイスパウダーである請求項1~請求項11のいずれか1項に記載の化粧料。 The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 11, which is a foundation, a makeup base or a face powder.
PCT/JP2010/062598 2009-07-30 2010-07-27 Cosmetic WO2011013654A1 (en)

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