WO2011010075A1

WO2011010075A1 - Use of jasmonic acid derivative as a soothing agent

Info

Publication number: WO2011010075A1
Application number: PCT/FR2010/051566
Authority: WO
Inventors: Dominique Fagot
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-07-24
Filing date: 2010-07-23
Publication date: 2011-01-27

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a jasmonic acid derivative as a soothing agent and to the use of a jasmonic acid derivative to prepare a composition for reducing and/or treating skin reactions. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for soothing the skin, mucus membranes, and/or the scalp. The present invention also relates to a composition including a jasmonic acid derivative and, optionally, at least one compound capable of causing skin, mucus membrane, and/or scalp irritation, as well as to a cosmetic or dermatological unit.

Description

USE OF A JASMONIC ACID DERIVATIVE

AS SOOTHING AGENT

The present invention relates to the use of a jasmonic acid derivative as a soothing agent, as well as the use of a jasmonic acid derivative for the preparation of a composition for reducing and / or treating skin reactions.

It also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for soothing the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the scalp. The present invention further relates to a composition comprising a jasmonic acid derivative and optionally at least one compound capable of causing irritation of the skin, mucous membranes and / or scalp, as well as a cosmetic or dermatological unit.

Skin reactions may occur, in particular during a skin disorder or when using a dermatological or cosmetic composition, in the form of discomfort felt by a subject in the skin, mucous membranes and / or scalp. It can typically be redness, itching, overheating, burning, tingling, or tightness. Cosmetic compositions to remedy this type of discomfort exist. In particular, soothing agents are used. On the other hand, certain compounds used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions can lead to the appearance of cutaneous reactions. These cutaneous reactions generally appear in particular circumstances, especially in the case of skin, mucous membranes and / or an irritable and / or intolerant scalp or even when using high concentrations of said compounds. Thus, it is used, for example to fight against aging, cosmetic compositions containing keratolytic and / or desquamating active agents, and in particular exfoliating active agents and / or promoting cell renewal, some of which are likely to cause cutaneous discomfort, particularly irritation of the skin, mucous membranes and / or scalp.

Skin reactions, including skin irritation, can also be induced by exogenous stress of chemical origin (eg following exposure to xenobiotics, chemicals, compounds that may cause irritation or itching of the skin, or following a peeling, for example likely to cause redness or irritation of the skin), of environmental origin (temperature, climate, UV radiation, atmospheric pollution, especially heavy metals, ozone, cigarette smoke) or of mechanical origin (friction, shaving), or by a stress of endogenous origin affecting the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the scalp. The physiological endogenous stress can for example be linked to the abnormal production of mediators (for example neuromediators, cytokines, or chemokines) which will be reflected in particular by skin reactions such as redness.

Among cutaneous reactions, skin irritation involves a cascade of reactions which, by the recruitment of infiltrating blood cells (for example neutrophils or macrophages) and the substances they release (for example cytokines, lymphokines or chemokines), give birth to the persistent irritating process, which can be characterized mainly by irritation of the skin, mucous membranes, and / or scalp, or involution of the hair bulb and its matrix environment when this process is localized on the scalp.

There is therefore a need to find soothing agents capable in particular of reducing and / or treating skin reactions, in particular due to an irritating agent or to a stress of endogenous or exogenous origin.

In the patent application EP 1333021, the use of jasmonic acid derivatives is described to promote desquamation of the skin and / or stimulate epidermal renewal and / or fight against aging of the skin.

The use of jasmonic acid derivatives in combination with ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof for the depigmentation and / or whitening of an epidermis, in particular the skin, is described in Application FR2921254.

However, none of the documents concerning jasmonic acid derivatives mention their soothing properties.

In this context, the inventors have unexpectedly shown that jasmonic acid derivatives have soothing properties. These properties, associated with their good tolerance and safety, make these jasmonic acid derivatives interesting candidates to reduce and / or treat skin reactions, especially due to an irritant or to a stress of endogenous or exogenous origin. The present invention therefore proposes a new active ingredient as a soothing agent which thus makes it possible to reduce the skin discomfort felt by a subject (generally a human being). It also makes it possible to reduce and / or treat skin reactions, in particular due to an irritating agent or a stress of endogenous or exogenous origin. The present invention thus relates to the use, in particular a cosmetic and / or dermatological use, of at least one jasmonic acid derivative or of a composition containing said jasmonic acid derivative, as a soothing agent, in particular for reducing the discomfort cutaneous and / or reduce and / or treat skin reactions especially due to an irritant or a stress of endogenous or exogenous origin.

The compound derived from jasmonic acid is a compound chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (I):

in which :

R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts. Preferably, R 1 denotes a radical chosen from -COOH, -COOMe, -COO-CH ₂ -CH ₃ , -COO-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ OH, -COOCH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ OH, and -COOCH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₃ . Preferably, R ₁ denotes a -COOH radical. Preferably, R ₂ denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms, for example ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl. In particular, R ₂ may be a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical. The salts of the compounds that can be used according to the invention are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; ammonium salts of formula NH ₄ ⁺ ; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as, for example, the salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amine or tris (2-hydroxyethylamine); hydroxyethylamine; salts of lysine or arginine. Salts chosen from among the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese or zinc salts are preferably used.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compound of formula (I) is chosen from 3-hydroxy-2 - [(2Z) -2-pentenyl] -cyclopentane acetic acid, 3-hydroxy-2-acid. -pentyl cyclopentane acetic acid and a salt thereof Preferably, the compound of formula (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid, especially in the form of sodium salt.

The compounds of formula (I) are described in patent application EP 1333021.

One embodiment of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) or a composition containing it as a soothing agent. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular for soothing the skin or the scalp, comprising the application to a keratin material (in particular the skin, the mucous membranes or the scalp) of at least one derivative of jasmonic acid of formula (I) or a composition containing it, in particular as a soothing agent. More specifically, said method makes it possible to reduce or treat cutaneous discomfort, preferably redness, itching, heating, burning sensations, tingling sensations or tightness sensations.

The present invention also relates to the use of a jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) or to the composition containing it for reducing or treating cutaneous discomfort felt by a subject in the skin, scalp or mucous membranes. . The jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) or the composition containing it is more particularly useful for treating redness, itching, heating, burning sensations, tingling sensation or tightness.

The jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) or the composition containing it in the context of the present invention is more particularly useful for treating skins and / or mucous membranes and / or irritable, intolerant and / or allergic scalps.

The jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) or the composition containing it in the context of the present invention is more particularly useful for preventing or reducing a cutaneous reaction induced by at least one factor chosen from the action of xenobiotics, compounds that may cause irritation or itching of the skin, peeling, the action of temperature, climate, UV radiation, air pollution, or a skin reaction induced by friction on the skin. skin, mucous membranes or scalp or alopecia andro genetics.

Another embodiment of the invention relates to the use of a jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) for the preparation of a composition, in particular a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, intended to reduce and / or treat skin reactions especially due to an irritating agent or exogenous or endogenous stress. Another embodiment of the invention relates to the jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) or the composition containing it for use in the treatment of cutaneous reactions, in particular due to at least one irritating agent or to a source stress. endogenous or exogenous; in particular, for use in the treatment of cutaneous reactions, in particular due to a skin disorder chosen from alopecia, erythema, in particular ultraviolet erythema, pruritus, psoriasis, systemic lupus erythematosus, cutaneous atopy, atopic dermatitis, allergic reactions of immediate hypersensitivity type, such as urticaria, allergic reactions of delayed hypersensitivity type, such as contact dermatitis, eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, acne, hyperpigmentation inflammatory, and some pelt.

Another embodiment of the invention relates to the jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) or the composition containing it for use in the reduction and / or treatment of cutaneous reactions due to the use of a cosmetic composition or dermatological agent containing at least one agent capable of causing skin irritation (or alternatively referred to in the text as "irritating agent"), in particular in the case of reactive, irritable or allergic skin or due to the use of high concentrations of said agent.

The jasmonic acid derivative of the invention may be included in the cosmetic or dermatological composition which contains an irritant or, alternatively, be included in a separate composition, which will be applied after, during and / or before the composition containing the irritant.

The use of a jasmonic acid derivative according to the invention has among others the advantage of eliminating skin irritation that could have caused irritating side effect compounds, and thus allow to increase the amount of said compounds in cosmetic or dermatological compositions in relation to the quantity normally used, with a view to improving their efficiency.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, in particular for soothing the skin, the scalp or the mucous membranes and / or treating the skin reactions selected from redness, itching, heating, burning, tingling and tugging, including application to the skin, mucous membranes and / or scalp of a derivative of formula I as defined higher or a composition containing it, especially as a soothing agent.

In the case where the use of the jasmonic acid derivative is intended to compensate for or treat the irritating effect of at least one other agent, the method may more specifically comprise:

or the direct application on the keratinous material (in particular the skin, the mucous membranes or the scalp) of a composition according to the invention containing both the jasmonic acid derivative according to the invention and at least one agent likely to have an irritating effect,

or the sequential or simultaneous application to the keratin material (in particular the skin, the mucous membranes or the scalp) of a composition comprising at least one agent that may have an irritating effect and a second composition comprising a derivative jasmonic acid according to the invention. In this case, the two applications can be performed one after the other, without order preference, or simultaneously. The treatment method according to the invention has in particular the characteristics of a cosmetic process since it makes it possible to improve the aesthetics and / or the comfort of the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, and to improve the comfort of an individual by treating the skin effects of aggression. The compound likely to cause skin irritation is generally a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compound. It may in particular correspond to cosmetic or dermatological compounds or active agents, surfactants, in particular anionic surfactants, preservatives, detergents, perfumes, in particular alcoholic perfuming solutions (perfumes, eau de toilette, aftershave, deodorants) solvents, propellants and mixtures thereof. Among the cosmetic or dermatological active agents that may cause irritation of the skin, mucous membranes and / or scalp, mention may in particular be made of desquamating agents, in particular especially saturated monocarboxylic acids (acetic acid) and unsaturated, saturated and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids; saturated and unsaturated tricarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids of monocarboxylic acids; the α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids of the dicarboxylic acids; α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids of tricarboxylic acids; ketoacids; α-ketoacids, β-ketoacids of polycarboxylic acids, polyhydroxy monocarboxylic acids, polyhydroxybicarboxylic acids and polyhydroxy tricarboxylic acids. In particular, among the α-hydroxy acids or their esters, mention may be made of: glycolic, dioecious acids such as octadecene dioic acid or Arlatone dioc DCA sold by Uniqema, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic, their esters being dialkyl tartrate (C 12 / Cl 3) or Cosmacol ETI, branched C 12-13 tri-alcohols citrate or Cosmacol ECI marketed by SASOL. Among the β-hydroxy acids, mention may be made of salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid). Among the desquamating agents, those capable of acting on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes may also be capable of causing irritation of the skin, mucous membranes and / or scalp. Among these, mention may in particular be made of chelating agents for mineral salts such as EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N'-ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulphonyl compounds and, in particular, (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); derivatives of α-amino acids of glycine type (such as described in EP 0 852 949, and that the sodium methylglycine diacetate sold by BASF under the trade name Trilon M ^®); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, O-linoleyl-6-D-glucose and N-acetyl glucosamine. Retinoids are also compounds that can cause skin irritation. For example, retinol and its esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives such as those described in documents FR-A-2,570,377, EPA-199,636, EP-A-325,540, EP-A can be mentioned. A-402,072, and Padapalene. Salts and derivatives, such as cis or trans forms, racemic mixtures, dextrorotatory and levogyrous forms of the compounds mentioned above are also considered to be irritating compounds. Other dermatological or cosmetic active agents that may cause skin irritation are also mentioned below: certain vitamins such as vitamin D and its derivatives such as vitamin D3, vitamin D2, calcitriol, calcipotriol, tacalcitol, 24,25-diOH vitamin D3, 1-OH vitamin D2 and 1,24-diOH vitamin D2; vitamin B9 and its derivatives, peroxides such as benzoyl peroxide or hydrogen peroxide, fall arrest systems such as minoxidil and its derivatives such as aminexyl, dyes and hair dyes such as aminophenols and their derivatives such as para-phenylenediamine (p-PDA), N-phenyl p-PDA, toluene 2,5-diamine sulphate, meta-phenylenediamine (m-PDA), toluene 3,4-diamine and ortho- phenylene diamine (o-PDA), antiperspirants such as aluminum salts, such as hydroxy aluminum chloride, deodorants, depilatory and / or permanent active agents such as thioglycolates or ammonia, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, anthralins such as dioxyanthranol, anthranoids such as those described in EP-A-319028, lithium salts, depigmenting agents such as hydroquinone, vitamin C in high concentration or kojic acid, certain slimming agents with a heating effect, nicotinates and their derivatives, capsaicin, anti-lice active agents such as pyrethrin, antiproliferatives such as 5-fluoro uracil or methotrexate, antiviral agents, antiparasitics, antifungals, antipruriginous, antiseborrheic, certain sunscreens, propigmentants such as psoralens and methylangecilines, and their mixtures. In addition, certain compounds, although considered inert in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, such as, for example, preservatives, surfactants, perfumes, solvents or propellants, may be irritating when applied to the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, in particular in subjects with skin, mucous membranes and / or irritable and / or allergic scalp. This irritancy depends on the compound used and the sensitivity of the skin, mucous membranes and / or scalp and the resident skin flora of the user. As preservatives, mention may be made of phenoxyethanol, chorehexidine and benzalkonium chloride. As surfactants, mention may be made of anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants, more particularly anionic surfactants such as alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates, such as lauryl sulphate and lauryl ether sulphate, and their salts, in particular sodium salts.

The compound likely to cause skin irritation may be present in the composition in an amount sufficient to cause a skin reaction. By way of example, it may be present in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 70% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a composition comprising at least one jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) and at least one other agent capable of causing an irritation or a cutaneous reaction. The presence of the jasmonic acid derivative is intended in particular to reduce and / or treat the irritation or skin reaction likely to be caused by the other agent present in the composition.

Thus, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I), in particular chosen from 3-hydroxy-2 - [(2Z) -2-pentenyl] -cyclopentane acetic acid, 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid and a salt thereof, and at least one active agent capable of causing irritation or a cutaneous reaction, in particular retinol and its derivatives (more specifically retinol of the trans-garlic type or cis). The amount of retinol or a derivative thereof in the composition according to the invention is advantageously between about 0.001% and 20% by weight, preferably between about 0.01% and 15%, advantageously between 0.1% and 10% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

One embodiment of the invention relates to the jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) or the composition containing it for use in the treatment of cutaneous reactions due to exogenous stress of chemical origin (for example following exposure to xenobiotics, chemicals, compounds that may cause irritation or itching of the skin, or a peel, for example, that may cause redness or irritation of the skin), of environmental origin (temperature, climate , UV radiation, atmospheric pollution, especially heavy metals, ozone, cigarette smoke) or mechanical origin (friction, shaving), or endogenously induced stress affecting the skin, mucous membranes and / or scalp. The physiological endogenous stress may for example be related to the abnormal production of mediators (neuromediators, cytokines, chemokines) which will be reflected in particular by cutaneous reactions. According to the invention, the composition comprising at least one jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) may also comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, nails, mucous membranes, eyes and hair or any other skin area of the human body. Said composition is generally a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It can therefore comprise a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, more specifically a medium which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness) likely to dissuade the subject from use the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably contains an effective amount of the jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) for soothing the skin or the scalp, treating cutaneous discomfort or skin reactions, in particular due to an irritating agent, a exogenous or endogenous stress. The effective amount of the jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) in a composition according to the invention can vary to a large extent, in particular depending on the degree of soothing effect desired. Thus, to give an order of magnitude, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) in an amount of between about 0.01% and 10% by weight, preferably between about 0.1 and 10%, advantageously between 0.05% and 7%, and more specifically between 0.2% and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprising at least one jasmonic acid derivative as described in the present application may further comprise at least one other soothing agent, preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.00001% to 95% by weight.

The other soothing agents are preferably present in a composition according to the invention at a concentration which may vary between 0.00001 and 10%, in particular between 0.00005 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As examples of soothing agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of: Pallantoin; beta-glycyrrhetinic acid, extracts of containing, for example, Glycyrrhiza Glabra extract (licorice) and the complexes containing them, such as the allantoin / glycyrrhetinic acid complex; planktons, preferably Vitreoscilla filiformis, freeze-dried or not, their extracts, in particular the lipopolysaccharide fraction and their complexes; escin and plant extracts containing such as horse chestnut extract; xanthine derivatives such as diethylaminoethyl theophylline hydrochloride; waters and extracts (eg aqueous, hydroalcoholic or hydroglycic) of flowers and plants, such as blueberry water, chamomile water, Hamamelis flower water, extracts or mint water , linden water, extracts or rosé water, rosaceae extracts (ex: Rosa gallica), peony extracts, hawthorn extracts, yarrow extract, mauve extracts, marigold extracts, melilot extracts, sage extracts, elderberry water, ginkgo biloba extracts, arnica extracts, oregano extracts, green tea extracts, water lily, Iris extracts, birch bark extracts, Aloe vera extracts; Asian acid and plant extracts containing it, such as Centella Asiatica; bisabolol; fruit extracts, such as pineapple, papaya and guava extract; algae, in particular of the Laminaria type (for example red or brown) and the brown algae extract Padina Pavonica as HPS 3 PADINA PAVONICA sold by the company Alban Muller; pyrrolidone carboxylates and in particular zinc (Zn-PCA) or copper (Cu-PCA); vegetable oils, such as canola seed oil and shea oil; essential oils, for example coriander, lemon balm, lavender, mint, chamomile and mixtures thereof; acexamic acid and tranexamic acid (trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid); ursolic acid and extracts containing it, such as rosemary leaf extract; fucose-containing polysaccharides, such as FUCOGEL 1000, sold by Solabia (aqueous solution comprising 1% of polysaccharide solids comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid); electrolytes and in particular an aqueous mixture comprising from 30 to 35% of magnesium chloride, from 20 to 28% of potassium chloride, from 3 to 10% of sodium chloride, from 0.2 to 1% of calcium chloride , from 0.1 to 0.6% of magnesium bromide and from 0.1 to 0.5% of insolubles, said mixture being here called mixture of Dead Sea Bath Salts as it corresponds to main salts contained in the Dead Sea; galactolipids, for example from oats, such as by for example, digalactosyl diglyceride or monogalactosyl diglyceride; amino acids, their derivatives and their salts, such as the sodium salt of amino acids grafted on cocoyl chains, marketed in the form of a mixture under the name SEPICALM S by the company SEPPIC, capryloylglycine marketed under the name LIPACIDE C8G by the company SEPPIC and the mixture of capryloylglycine, cinnamon and sarcosine marketed under the name SEPICONTROL A5 by the company SEPPIC; TNF-alpha antagonists such as lisophylline, 1Α802715, sulfasalazine, CDP-571 (anti-TNF-alpha antibody), MDL-201112; substance P antagonists such as sendide, spantide II, and the peptides described in application EP-A-680749, the extracts of filamentous bacterium described in application EP-A-761204, or plant extracts with antagonistic activity of substance P (Rosa gallica); CGRP antagonists, such as CGRP 8-37, anti-CGRP antibodies, or plant extracts with CGRP antagonist activity (ex: Iris pallidά); divalent salts of strontium, zinc, manganese, magnesium, calcium, such as those described in WO-A-96/19184, WO-A-96/19182 and WO-A-96/19228; C-glycoside derivatives as described in EP 1 345 919, preferably C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; plant extracts such as Boeswellia serrata (Soothex from OUEST), gentian (Inflan-AT from TECHNOBLE), peony (Botampi from ICHIMARU PHARCOS), Caprier buds (Dermasensitive Gatuline from GATTEFOSSE); fungus extracts (Ganoderma de MARUZEN), the tripeptide Lys-Pro-Val (KPV), extracts of algae, such as Phycosaccharide ^® AI marketed by the company CODIF, or a hydrogly colic extract of the seaweed Laminaria saccharina, including Phlorogine ^®, sold by BIOTECH MARINE, the extracts from Gingko biloba, the natural antagonist of IL-1 (IL-IRA), the extract of barks and roots of terminalia sericea, sericoside 3,058,500 marketed by INDENA; and their mixtures.

By "skin and / or mucous membranes and / or irritable, intolerant and / or allergic scalp" is meant according to the invention in particular skin and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp that react to external aggressions, sometimes exaggerated. By "active agent" or "active" is meant according to the invention a compound which, when administered to a subject, in particular a human subject, has a direct biological role on the body, in particular on the skin , the mucous membranes, and / or the scalp, in particular without improving the biological or mechanical effect of another compound present in the composition according to the invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "treatment" (or "treating") means preventive and / or curative treatment. The treatment includes slowing the progression of the skin reaction, decreasing or stopping the skin reaction, or the non-development of the skin reaction. The treatment may further be carried out in combination with other chemical or physical agents or treatments. The treatments of the invention are particularly intended for humans.

A composition according to the invention is more specifically intended for topical application to the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the scalp, in particular to a local application on the manifestations of cutaneous reactions.

A composition according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used for topical application, especially in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solution, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or aqueous or oily gel, a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product, a suspension or a dispersion, for example an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules that may be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type.

This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse . It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product, as a cleaning product, or as a make-up product. In a known manner, a composition according to the invention may contain the usual adjuvants in the fields under consideration, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, chelating agents, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and / or into the nanoparticles.

When the composition according to the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils, oils of vegetable origin (apricot oil, sunflower oil), oils of animal origin, synthetic oils and silicone oils. and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers). It is also possible to use fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol), fatty acids and waxes (beeswax) as fatty substances.

As emulsifiers and coemulsifiers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate and fatty acid esters. and polyol such as glyceryl stearate and sorbitan tristearate.

According to an advantageous embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one other active agent chosen from UV-screening agents, moisturizing agents, depigmenting agents, anti-glycation agents, NO synthase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, the agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes, muscle-relaxant or dermo-decontracting agents, tensing agents, anti-pollution or anti-radical agents, soothing agents, desquamating agents, and active agents on energy metabolism of cells.

The amount of these additional active agents can vary to a large extent and is for example 10 ^{~ 6} to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired.

The present invention finally relates to an assembly, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising two compositions in two separate containers or two distinct parts of the same container, one of the compositions comprising at least one agent that may have an irritant effect and other composition comprising at least one jasmonic acid derivative as defined in the present invention, in particular as a soothing agent.

Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages cited in this application are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Some aspects and advantages of the invention will become more apparent from the following examples which are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the present invention.

EXAMPLES

Example 1 Evaluation of the Anti-Inflammatory Effect of the Jasmonic Acid Derivative (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid)

A sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid is used in solution in a water / propylene glycol mixture. The test consists of evaluating the effect of the jasmonic acid derivative on the inhibition of the response of NCTC 2544 keratinocytes and monocytes (HL60 cells) to a proinflammatory agent, phorbol myristate acetate (PMA) at 0.1 μg / ml. ml for keratinocytes or calcium ionophore A23187 at 10 μM for HL60 cells, by cytokine assay (IL8 and PGE2 for keratinocytes and LTB4 for HL60 cells).

This study uses the test developed by Wilmer [Wilmer, J. L. et al. J. Invest. Dermatol. 102: 915-922 (1994)]. This test makes it possible to evaluate the anti-inflammatory potential of various molecules, on a human keratinocyte cell line (NHEK NCTC 2544) and on HL60 cells. In this test, an inflammatory situation is mimicked by inducing the production of cytokines by the addition of proinflammatory compounds in the culture medium. The anti-irritant effect of the jasmonic acid derivative is then measured by its inhibitory action with respect to this exacerbated production.

Normal human epidermal keratinocytes are incubated in the presence of Phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate at 0.1 g / ml, HL60 monocytes are incubated in the presence of ionophore at 10 M calcium A23187 for 24 hours at 37 ° C.

To evaluate the anti-irritant protective effect of the jasmonic acid derivative, the production of the chemotactic markers Interleukin 8 (IL-8) and Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) by human keratinocytes and Leukotriene B4 marker (LTB4) was measured by human monocytes HL60, in the presence of different concentrations of jasmonic acid derivative. The production of several cytokines is measured by enzymatic assay using different kits (for IL8, kit Elisa Diaclone 851.530.010, for PGE2, kit Elisa R & D Systems KGE004, for LTB4, kit Elisa R & D Systems KGE006). Absorbance values are measured with a microplate reader (MRX / Dynatech) according to the procedures provided with the assay kit. A control test is also performed with dexamethasone (10 ^{~ 4} M), indomethacin (10 ^{~ 6} M) or TAA861 (1 and 0.2 pM), soothing agents of reference.

The results are expressed as a percentage of the control values, after subtraction of the background noise, and as a percentage inhibition of these values obtained in the presence of the compounds. The inhibitory properties of the jasmic acid derivative with respect to the production of IL-8, LTB-4 and PGE-2 are summarized in Table 1 below.

Table 1

This example demonstrates that under these experimental conditions the tested jasmonic acid derivative exhibits a soothing, dose-dependent activity resulting in inhibition of IL-8 and PGE-2 release, and to a lesser extent the stimulated release of LTB-4.

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of at least one jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) or of a composition containing said jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I), as a soothing agent,

said jasmonic acid derivative having the following formula (I):

in which :

R 1 represents a COOR 3 radical, R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts.

2. Use according to claim 1 for treating redness, itching, heating, tingling sensations or tightness.

3. Cosmetic use according to claim 1 or 2, for preventing or reducing a cutaneous reaction induced by at least one factor selected from the action of xenobiotics, chemicals, compounds likely to cause irritation or itching of the skin, a peel, the action of temperature, climate, UV radiation, air pollution, or a cutaneous reaction induced by friction on the skin, mucous membranes or scalp.

4. Use according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the jasmonic acid derivative has the formula (I) wherein R 1 is a chosen radical among -COOH, -COOMe, -COO-CH ₂ -CH ₃ , -COO-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ OH, -COOCH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ OH, and -COOCH ₂ -CH (OH ) -CH ₃ , preferably COOH.

5. Use according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the jasmonic acid derivative has the formula (I) wherein R ₂ is a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical.

6. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the derivative of formula (I) is chosen from 3-hydroxy-2 - [(2Z) -2-pentenyl] -cyclopentane acetic acid, l 3-hydroxy acid

2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid and a salt thereof

7. A cosmetic treatment method for soothing the skin, the mucous membranes or the scalp, comprising the application to the skin, the mucous membranes and / or the scalp of at least one jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) such as defined in one of claims 1, 4-6 or a composition containing said derivative.

8. Method according to the preceding claim for treating the irritating effect of at least one other agent.

9. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) is included in the cosmetic composition which contains the other irritating agent or, alternatively, is included in a separate cosmetic composition, which will be applied after, during and / or before the composition containing the irritant.

10. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an effective amount of at least one jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) as defined in one of claims 1, 4 to 6, for use in the treatment of cutaneous reactions, in particular due to at least one irritating agent or to a stress of endogenous or exogenous origin.

11. Composition according to claim 10, for use in the reduction and / or treatment of cutaneous reactions due to the use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition containing at least one agent capable of causing skin irritation, in particular in the skin. case of reactive, irritable or allergic skin, or the use of high concentrations of said agent.

12. An assembly comprising in two separate containers or two distinct parts of the same container, a composition comprising at least one agent that may have an irritating effect and a composition comprising at least one derivative of formula (I) as defined in the following: one of claims 1, 4 to 6.