WO2010010269A2

WO2010010269A2 - Cosmetic composition containing a specific cationic surface-active agent, a polyol, and a non-ionic, non-silicone thickening polymer, and use and method

Info

Publication number: WO2010010269A2
Application number: PCT/FR2009/051341
Authority: WO
Inventors: Estelle Mathonneau
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2008-07-23
Filing date: 2009-07-07
Publication date: 2010-01-28
Also published as: WO2010010269A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing: a cationic surface-active agent from the following Formula (I), at least one polyol, and a non-ionic, non-silicone thickening polymer. The composition of the present invention makes it possible to achieve very good hair disentanglement of wet and dry hair.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a particular cationic surfactant, a polyol and a nonionic and non-silicone thickening polymer, use and process.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for conditioning keratin materials and a process for implementing this composition. It has already been proposed for the treatment of keratin materials and in particular hair, cosmetic compositions containing cationic surfactants. In particular, it is known to use, in the field of cosmetics, cationic surfactants of the choline ester type carrying a nitrogen-containing cationic group, these surfactants being associated with various cosmetic ingredients such as fatty alcohols, polymers, oils, etc. For example, JP 57109709 describes the use of this type of cationic surfactant for hair application.

Such compositions, however, have disadvantages. In particular, the cosmetic properties are often insufficient (detangling, softness).

It is also well known that hair which has been sensitized (ie damaged and / or embrittled) to varying degrees under the action of atmospheric agents or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as colorations, discolorations and / or perms, are often difficult to disentangle and comb, and lack softness. It is particularly important for this type of hair to have a particularly effective cosmetic packaging composition.

Also, the object of the present invention is to provide cosmetic conditioning compositions which are particularly effective in disentangling term and touch, in particular to repair or limit the adverse or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or attacks that undergo, more or less repeated, the hair fibers. These conditioning agents can of course also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.

This object is achieved by the present invention which relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant of formula (I) below, at least one polyol and at least one nonionic and non-silicone thickening polymer;

(I) wherein X represents a counterion, R1, R2 and R3 independently represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl radical; R4 represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 12 carbon atoms. The composition of the present invention makes it possible to obtain a very good disentangling of the hair on wet and dry hair. The hair is smooth and supple when rinsing, on wet hair and on dry hair. Dry hair is shiny, smooth, supple, individualized and has a soft touch. The hair has a natural appearance and not loaded. The compositions according to the invention are stable over time and are easily distributed on the hair. The texture of the compositions is pleasant and appears rich without significant presence of fatty alcohols and / or solid fatty esters.

The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular the hair using the composition according to the invention.

The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition of the invention on hair as a rinse-off or non-rinsed conditioner. In the context of the invention, in the cationic surfactant of formula (I), the radical R4 preferably represents a linear and saturated hydrocarbon chain. According to a particular embodiment, the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 are methyl radicals and the radical R 4 comprises between 16 and 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, R4 comprises from 17 to 21 carbon atoms and more particularly R4 is a radical

C17H35

By way of counterion X, mention may be made of chloride, bromide and methoxysulphate counterions. The concentration of cationic surfactants in the composition may be very variable, however, generally, this amount of cationic surfactant in the composition is between 0.5% and 10% (of active material), and preferably between 1% and 6% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention.

The composition of the invention also comprises a nonionic and non-silicone thickening polymer. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickening polymer" is understood to mean a polymer which is introduced at 1% in a pure aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% of ethanol, and at pH = 7, makes it possible to attain a viscosity of at least 100 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at 25 ° C and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 This viscosity can be measured using a cone / planar viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or the like).

Preferably, these polymers increase the viscosity of the compositions in which they are introduced by at least 50 cps, preferably 200 cps, at 25 ° C., and at a shear rate of ¹ sec ^-1 .

The thickening polymers may be associative polymers or not. According to the invention, the thickening polymer does not contain a silicon atom in its structure.

As regards the non-associative thickening polymers, it is first noted that the meaning of the present invention, the non-associative thickening polymers are thickening polymers not containing a fatty chain -C ₀ -C ₃ O-

Among the non-associative thickening polymers present, mention may be made of nonionic guar gums, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, gums derived from plant exudates, celluloses, in particular hydroxypropyl or hydroxyethyl celluloses and pectins, alone or in mixtures.

As nonionic and non-silicone thickening polymers, mention may also be made of polysaccharides, especially fructans, glucans, modified or non-modified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, maize or rice, vegetables such as sweet pea, tubers such as potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives

(methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, and pectins, arabinogalactans carrageenins, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), and their mixtures.

Nonionic guar gums, for example unmodified nonionic guar gums sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company, may be mentioned in particular. UNIPECTINE and under the name JAGUAR C by the company MEYHALL.

The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C ₆ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, there may be mentioned by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum, so as to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The level of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Meyhall or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.

As suitable non-associative thickening polymers, mention may also be made of biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan gums. Also suitable are gums derived from plant exudates, such as gum arabic, Ghatti gums, Karaya and Tragacanthe gums; celluloses, in particular hydroxypropyl or carboxymethylcelluloses; pectins. These polymers are well known to those skilled in the art and are particularly described in the book by Robert L. DAVIDSON entitled "Handbook of Water Soluble Gums and Resins" published by Mc Graw HiII Book Company (1980). Mention may also be made of fructans or fructans which are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with a plurality of different saccharide residues of fructose. The fructans can be linear or branched. The fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis in particular enzymatic. The fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 3 to about 60. There are 3 groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are mostly linked by β-2-1 bonds. These are essentially linear fructans that inulins.

The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the fructose units are essentially linked by β-2-6 bonds. These products are levanes.

The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, that is to say having sequences β-2-6 and β-2-1. These are essentially branched fructans than graminans.

The preferred fructans are inulins. Inulin can be obtained for example from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichokes.

Among the thickeners, it is more particularly preferred to use thickening systems based on associative polymers well known to those skilled in the art. It is recalled that the associative polymers are hydrophilic polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, to associate reversibly with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

Hydrophobic group is understood to mean a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.

The nonionic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from:

- (1) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; we can cite as an example:

hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, such as the product NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS® (C ₆ alkyl) sold by the company AQUALON, or the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100® sold by the company BEROL NOBEL,

those modified with polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500® (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol.

(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by LAMBERTI, the products

RE210-18® (alkyl chain ₄₎ and RE205-1 ® (alkyl chain C ₂ o) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

(3) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers which may be mentioned by way of example: the ANTARON V216® or GANEX V216® products (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I. S. P.

products ANTARON V220® or GANEX V220® (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by I. S. P.

(4) copolymers of C 1 -C 6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208® name.

(5) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

(6) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences most often polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences. (7) polymers having an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one fatty chain, such as the PURE THIX® compounds proposed by SUD-CHEMIE.

Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The polyether polyurethanes may be multiblocked, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic sequences may be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers may also be graft or star.

The nonionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.

By extension are also included among the nonionic polyurethane fatty chain polyethers those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic blocks by other chemical bonds.

As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use also the urea-functional Rheolate 205® sold by Rheox or the Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® with a C-12-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® with a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO.

The product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, proposed at 20% solids content in water, may also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include, for example, Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Rheox. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and the DW 1206J proposed by the company Rohm & Haas.

The polyether polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380, 389 (1993).

More particularly still it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) alcohol stearyl or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture ( 39%) and water (26%)]. Preferably, the nonionic thickening polymers according to the invention are chosen from guar gums and associative polymers.

The preferred non-silicone thickening polymers are guar gums, hydroxyalkyl celluloses which may or may not be modified with a hydrophobic group, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcelluloses which may or may not be modified with a hydrophobic group, or which are inulins modified or not with a hydrophobic group.

The amount of nonionic and non-silicone thickening polymers in the composition of the invention can generally be between 0.1 and 5%, and preferably between 0.5 and 3% relative to the total amount of the composition (% active ingredient). ).

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises a polyol. The polyols that can be used in the composition according to the present invention are of formula (II):

wherein R ', R'2, R'3, R ₄ denote, independently of one another a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical Ci-or a mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical -C _6,

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprises from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms, but no hydroxyl group, m denotes 0 or 1. A first group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of formula (II) for which m = 0 such as 1,2,3-propanethol (glycerin), pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-butanediol and sorbitol. A second group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of formula (II) for which m = 1 and R ', R' _2, R '3, R ₄ denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, hydrogen or a C1-C6 alkyl radical. Among these polyols, polyethylene glycols including those having from 4 to 9 ethylene oxide group such as for example the product named PEG-6 or PEG-8 in the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Seventh Edition) are particularly preferred.

A third group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of formula (II) for which m = 1 and R ', R' _2, R '3, R ₄ denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, hydrogen or a C1-C6 alkyl radical. Of these polyols, 3-methyl-1,3,5-pentanetriol, 1,2,4-butanethol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1,3 propanediol, 1 are preferably used. 3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol) and hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol) and even more preferably hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol.

According to the invention, the polyol is more particularly chosen from glycerin, polyethylene glycols and hexylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

The amount of polyols in the composition of the invention is generally between 0.5 and 20%, and preferably between 1 and 10% relative to the total amount of the composition (% active material).

The compositions of the invention may also contain at least one cosmetic additive commonly used in the art such as, for example, moisturizers, emollients, plasticizers, silicones, pigments, mineral fillers, clays, the minerals colloidal, nacres, perfumes, peptizers, preservatives, nonionic surfactants, proteins and vitamins, oils, natural extracts. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible cosmetic additives and their amount so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The composition of the invention also preferably comprises one or more fatty alcohols. For the purposes of the present invention, "fatty alcohols" means compounds of formula R-OH, R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols may be chosen in particular from oleic, lauric, palmitic, myristic, isomyristyl, behenyl, stearyl, isostearyl, cetyl, isoketyl linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic, isoarachidyl, ricinoleic, octyldodecanol or mixtures thereof, for example cetylstearyl alcohol. Solid fatty alcohols are preferred

According to a particular embodiment, the fatty alcohols are linear and saturated fatty alcohols. Among these alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohol is more particularly preferred.

The concentration of fatty alcohol in the composition is between 1 and 15% and preferably between 3 and 10% (of active material) of the total weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention.

The composition of the invention also preferably comprises one or more fatty esters. Fatty esters within the meaning of the present invention more particularly include a carboxylic acid ester comprising in its structure a fatty chain containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and an alcohol which is preferably a monoalcohol, especially C1-C30, more particularly C1-C22, or a sugar.

More particularly, these compounds are chosen from: saturated linear or branched monohydric esters of C 1 -

C30, with monofunctional fatty acids C10-C30, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; esters of linear or branched C 3 -C 8 monohydric alcohols with bifunctional C 10 -C 30 fatty acids, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; esters and diesters of C10-C30 sugars and fatty acids; their mixtures.

As regards the linear or branched C1-C30 saturated monohydric alcohol esters with monofunctional C10-C30 fatty acids, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds (-C = C-), conjugated or otherwise.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, these esters may be chosen in particular from oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof such as in particular oleo-palmitates. , Oleo-stearates, palmito-stearates of C1-C30 monoalcohols. Among these esters, it is more particularly used isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, octyl dodecyl stearate and isononyl isononaate.

Among the esters of linear or branched C 3 -C 8 monohydric alcohols with linear or branched, saturated or branched C12-C30 bifunctional fatty acids unsaturated, and more particularly from the isopropyl di-ester of sebacic acid, also called di-isopropyl sebacate,

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C10-C30 sugars and fatty acids. It is recalled that "sugar" means compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters previously described and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C10-C22 fatty acids. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

The esters may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, sugar arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the oleo-palmitate, oleostearate, mixed esters, palmito-sugar stearate (s). More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters are:

the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitostearate of 73% of monoester and 27% of di- and triester of 61%; % monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri- and tetraester, and sucrose mono-laurate;

the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester;

the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fatty esters are esters of C1-C22 alcohol, preferably of C10-C22 fatty alcohol and of C12-C22 fatty acid, preferably of C12-C22 fatty acid.

The concentration of fatty ester in the composition is between 0.1 and 10% and preferably between 0.5 and 5% (of active material) of the total weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicones are preferably amino silicones and more particularly quaternary silicones.

According to the invention, the term "silicone" means, in accordance with the general acceptance, any polymer having a structure based on the alternation of silicon and oxygen atoms, connected to each other by so-called siloxane link bonds (-Si -O-Si-), and further characterized by the existence of silicon-carbon bonds. These silicones, or polysiloxanes, are generally obtained by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes. The most common hydrocarbon radicals carried by the silicon atoms are lower alkyl radicals, in particular methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl radicals.

The term "quaternary silicone" means any silicone comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups. These quaternary ammonium groups may be linked in the alpha or omega position or in the form of side groups. They can be linked directly to the polysiloxane backbone or can be carried by hydrocarbon chains. The quaternary ammonium groups contain at least one nitrogen atom having 4 substituents, all different from hydrogen.

The silicones with quaternary ammonium groups of the present invention are for example chosen from compounds corresponding to the following general formulas:

formulas in which:

- R1, identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl group, C1-C30, or phenyl;

R 2, which may be identical or different, represents -C 2 H 2 C -O- (C 2 H 4 O) a- (C 3 H 6 O) b -R 5 or -C c H 2 C -O- (C 4 H 8 O) a-R 5;

R5, identical or different, is chosen from the following groups of formula:

₊ R ₆

- [C _f H _(2f - _g) (OH) ₉ ] NR ₈ A -

R.

the R8 radicals independently represent a linear or branched C2-C22 alkyl or C2-22 alkenyl radical, optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or represent a ChH2hZCOR9 group;

- R6, R7 and R9, which may be identical or different, represent linear or branched C2-22 alkyl or C1-22 alkenyl radicals, optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or R7 may form with a part of R8 a heterocycle ( ring with at least one heteroatom such as for example N, O, P), the hetero ring is in particular an imidazoline. Preferably R6 and R7 denote a C1-C6 alkyl radical and more particularly methyl, R9 preferably denotes a radical chosen from C8-C18 alkyl and C8-C18 alkenyl and in particular a cocoyl radical.

m varies from 0 to 20; n varies from 0 to 500;

p varies from 1 to 50;

q varies from 0 to 20;

r varies from 1 to 20;

- a varies from 0 to 50; b varies from 0 to 50;

- c varies from 0 to 4;

f varies from 0 to 4,

- g varies from 0 to 2, preferably is equal to 1

- h varies from 1 to 4, preferably is equal to 3 Z represents an oxygen atom or NH,

A- represents a monovalent inorganic or organic anion such as a halide (eg chloride, bromide), a sulfate, or a carboxylate (eg acetate, lactate, citrate).

Preferably, the quaternary ammonium silicones corresponding to the general formula (c) as defined above, and more particularly, those corresponding to the general formula (c) in which at least one of the, and preferably all the following conditions are satisfied:

- c is 2 or 3; - R1 denotes the methyl group;

- a and b are equal to zero;

n varies from 0 to 100;

q is 0; - f = 3; - g = i;

- R6 and R7 denote the methyl group;

- R8 denotes the radical - (CH2) -NHCOR9.

Such silicones are marketed for example by the company

GOLDSCHMIDT under the names ABIL QUAT 3272, ABIL B 9905, ABIL QUAT 3474 and ABIL K 3270, by LIPO FRANCE under the names SILQUAT Q-100, SILQUAT Q-200 WS, SILQUAT AX, SILQUAT AC, SILQUAT AD and SILQUAT AM all manufactured by SILTECH, by OSI under the name MAGNASOFT EXHAUST and SILSOFT C-880 and by UCIB under the names PECOSIL 14-PQ and PECOSIL 36-PQ (manufacturer PHOENIX CHEMICAL).

These silicones are especially described in patents EP 530 974, DE 3 719 086, DE 3 705 121, EP 617 607 and EP 714 654.

According to one particular embodiment, the quaternary silicone is chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes grafted with a quaternary ammonium radical, preferably a quaternary ammonium radical with a fatty chain. The quaternary silicone concentration in the composition of the invention is between 0.1 and 10% and preferably between 0.5 and 5% (active ingredient).

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be in various galenical forms such as a lotion, a spray, a mousse, a conditioner, a gel or a cream.

The cosmetic composition generally comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium. By cosmetically acceptable is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials, especially fibers keratinic such as hair. The medium is preferably aqueous. It may consist of water or a mixture of water and at least one or more organic solvents.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 70 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the hair, which consists in applying to said keratin materials the cosmetic composition as described above, and optionally rinsing said composition, for example with water, after a possible laying time.

The composition of the invention is particularly useful in rinsed or non-rinsed after-shampoo and more particularly rinsed.

The following examples are illustrative of the present invention. All quantities indicated are in% by weight unless otherwise indicated. MA means Active Matter

Example 1

Preparation of the compositions:

COMPOSITION 1

15% Methyl (Methyl / C18) 15% Methyl / C18 Copolymer SMDI / Polyethylene Glycol Copolymer in a Maltodextrin / Water Matrix

(ACULYN 46 - ROHM & HAAS)

Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose (91%) 1%

(POLYSURF 67 CS - HERCULES)

CH,

C ₁₇ H ₃₅ -CO

+

0-CH ₂ CH ₂ -N -CH ₃

CH, Cl

Formula 1

Mode of application:

The compositions are applied to a lock of 2.5g wet bleached hair at the rate of 1 g of the composition to be tested. Let it sit for 5 minutes and rinse.

The locks are then evaluated by 5 testers. The evaluation is performed on wet hair and dry hair.

Results: On application: the composition 1 is distributed more easily. It brings more flexibility to the wick. The touch is smoother than with the control composition 1

On wet hair: The wick prepared with the composition 1 is disentangled more easily, it is smoother and more flexible.

On dry hair: The wick prepared with the composition 1 is smoother, the touch is softer, it is also brighter.

Example 2

Preparation of the compositions:

Mode of application: The compositions are applied to a wick of 2.5 g wet bleached hair at the rate of 1 g of the composition to be tested. Let it sit for 5 minutes and rinse.

The locks are evaluated by 5 testers. The evaluation is performed on wet hair and dry hair.

Results:

On application: the composition 2 is distributed more easily. It brings more flexibility to the wick. Touch is smoother than control composition 2.

On wet hair: The wick prepared with the composition 2 is disentangled more easily, it is smoother and more flexible.

On dry hair: The wick prepared with the composition 2 is smoother, the touch is softer, it is also brighter.

Compositions having the same conditioning properties can be obtained by replacing the cationic surfactant of formula 1 with the cationic surfactant of formula 2 below:

C ₂ H ₅

C ₁₇ H ₃₅ -CO

0-CH ₂ CH ₂ -NC ₂ H ₅

^ ^C '

Formula 2

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant of formula (I) below, at least one polyol and at least one non-silicone and non-ionic thickening polymer,

R4 - CO

I + X

O ~ CH ₂ CH ₂ - NR ₁ R ₂ R ₃

(I) wherein X represents a counterion, R1, R2 and R3 independently represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl radical; R4 represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 12 carbon atoms.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationic surfactant of formula (I) is such that the radical R4 represents a linear and saturated hydrocarbon chain.

3. Composition according to claim 2 wherein the cationic surfactant of formula (I) is such that the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are methyl radicals and the radical R4 comprises between 16 and 22 carbon atoms.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cationic surfactant of formula (I) is such that the radical R4 is a radical C17H35.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the nonionic and non-silicone thickening polymer is chosen. among guar gums, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, inulins, whether or not modified by a hydrophobic group.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyols are of formula (II)

in which R'1, R'2, R'3, R'4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a mono- or polyhydroxyalkyl C1-C6 radical,

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprises from 0 to 9 oxygen atoms, m denotes 0 or 1.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyols are chosen from glycerin, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more fatty alcohols.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more fatty esters.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more silicones.

11. A method of treating keratin materials comprising applying to these materials the composition as defined according to the preceding claims.

The method of claim 11 further comprising a rinsing step.

13. Use of the composition according to claims 1 to 10 on hair as rinse after shampoo and not rinsed.