WO2009083283A1

WO2009083283A1 - Hair cleaning products containing structurants

Info

Publication number: WO2009083283A1
Application number: PCT/EP2008/063311
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thomas Hippe; Thomas Schröder
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2007-12-20
Filing date: 2008-10-06
Publication date: 2009-07-09
Also published as: DE102007062520A1

Abstract

The invention relates to hair cleaning products that impart advantageous properties to the hair treated therewith regarding the strength, feel and tensile strength of the hair and that are especially mild. The products according to the invention contain in a cosmetically acceptable support, based on the weight thereof, 0.1 to 10% by weight of nicotinic acid (I) and/or nicotinamide (II), and 0.1 to 10% by weight of panthenol (III).

Description

"Hair cleanser with structurants"

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing a special combination of structural agents.

Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.

Not least by the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming as well as by the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased splits following such treatments.

It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.

Furthermore, so-called combination preparations have recently been developed to reduce the burden of the usual multi-stage process, especially in the direct application by consumers.

The available active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface. Thus, active ingredients are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combabilities or prevent splitting. Just as important as the external appearance of the hair, however, is the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers, which can be greatly influenced, in particular, by oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and perming.

However, the known active ingredients can not cover all needs sufficiently. Particularly in the case of hair cleansing, an increased awareness of hygiene leads to an ever more frequent cleaning of the hair. In order to be here in addition to optimal cleaning and hair care long-term, the funds used must be particularly mild to the hair and scalp. Although mild surfactants from a wide variety of groups are known per se, these do not yet sufficiently satisfy all consumer wishes.

For example, it has been shown that frequent hair washing can affect the structure of the keratin fibers, thus requiring the addition of certain substances which enhance the internal structure of the keratin fibers and thus improve the strength, feel and tensile strength of keratin fibers.

There is therefore a need for active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients for hair cleansing compositions which not only do not impair the structure of the fibers treated with them but on the contrary improve them.

It is an object of the present invention to provide hair cleansing compositions which impart advantageous properties in terms of strength, feel and tensile strength to the hairs treated with them while being particularly mild.

It has now been found that a special combination of certain structural additives is outstandingly suitable for achieving this object.

The present invention is in a first embodiment, a hair cleanser, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier - based on its weight -

(a) 0.1 to 10% by weight of nicotinic acid (I) and / or nicotinic acid amide (II)

(b) 0.1 to 10% by weight of panthenol (III)

The compositions according to the invention contain, as the first essential ingredient, based on the weight of the hair cleanser, from 0.1 to 10% by weight of nicotinic acid (I) and / or nicotinamide (II)

Nicotinic acid (I) and nicotinic acid amide (II) are also grouped together under the name "niacin." Both compounds have the same vitamin activity and can be converted by the organism Compounds of formulas (I) and (II) become the vitamin B complex counted.

In the animal organism, nicotinic acid (I) and nicotinamide (II) are synthesized via the route L-tryptophan -> kynurenine -> 3-hydroxyanthranilic acid -> quinolinic acid (pyridine-2,3-dicarboxylic acid) -> nicotinic acid -> nicotinic acid amide. In bacteria and higher plants: L-acid esteragric acid and a C ₃ body, probably D-glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate. In addition, by cleavage of NAD.

Nicotinic acid amide is synthesized from nicotinic acid esters by reaction with ammonia. An alternative route is the oxidation of 3-methylpyridine (β-picoline) to nicotinic acid nitrile and its partial hydrolysis to nicotinic acid amide.

Nicotinic acid amide is produced commercially by chemical hydrolysis from 3-cyanopyridine, by Lonza analogously to the acrylamide process from 3-cyanopyridine by biotransformation with Rhodococcus rhodochrous M (scale 3000 t / a).

Preferred agents according to the invention contain the compound (s) of the formulas (I) and / or (II) within narrower ranges. Here, hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain from 0.2 to 9% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 6% by weight. % and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% nicotinic acid (I) and / or nicotinamide (II).

The compositions according to the invention contain as the second essential ingredient, based on the weight of the hair cleanser, from 0.1 to 10% by weight of panthenol (IM).

Panthenol, also referred to as pantothenol or as pantothenyl alcohol, is the international generic name for (±) -2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide. Panthenol is optically active, only the R-form is used as a vitamin in the organism

Pantothenic acid is converted, used.

In the context of the present invention, both the racemate and the optically and physiologically active form can be used. Thus, preferred hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from 0.2 to 9% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 6 Wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of (±) -2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide (rac. Panthenol).

The R-panthenol (R) - (+) - 2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide is also referred to as dexpanthenol. It was patented in 1946 by Hoffmann-La Roche (Bepanthen ^® ) and is available as a generic medicine. Particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from 0.2 to 9% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 6 % By weight and especially 0.5 to 5% by weight of (R) - (+) - 2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide

(Dexpanthenol).

In compounds of the invention, particular preference is given to using compounds of the formula (I) or (II) and (III) in specific ratios to one another. In particularly preferred compositions according to the invention, the weight proportions of the individual substances (% by weight, based in each case on the agent according to the invention) are as follows:

[(I) + (M)]: (Ml) = 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5 and especially 3: 1 to 1

: 2.

The compositions of the invention are hair cleansers, i. suitable and intended to clean keratinous fibers. To develop the cleaning action, they preferably contain at least one surfactant. Particular preference is given to hair cleansers according to the invention containing from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on their weight, of at least one alkylpolyglycoside.

Alkylpolyglycosides (APG) are non-ionic surfactants that are produced entirely from renewable raw materials (sugar components, predominantly glucose, for example from corn starch and fatty alcohol, for example from coconut oil). Alkyl polyglycosides are accessible by acid-catalyzed reaction (Fischer reaction) of sugars, especially glucose (or starch) or butyl glycosides with fatty alcohols. Complex mixtures of alkyl monoglucoside (alkyl-α-D- and -β-D-glucopyranoside and small amounts of glucofuranoside), alkyldiglucosides (-isomaltosides, maltosides etc.) and alkyl oligoglucosides (maltotriosides, tetraosides, etc.) are formed. The average degree of polymerization of commercial products whose alkyl radicals are in the range C8-C16 is 1, 2-1, 5.

According to the invention, preference is given to alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula

RO (Z) _x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R consists essentially of C ₈ - and do-alkyl groups, essentially of C ₂ - and C- | _4- alkyl groups, consisting essentially of C ₈ - to C- | ₆ alkyl groups or consisting essentially of C ₁₂ to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or substantially C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.

The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other surfactants. Particularly preferred agents contain as second surfactant - based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent - 0.1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one betaine of the formula (IV)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

These surfactants are referred to the INCI nomenclature as Amidopropylbetaine, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaine. According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (IV) which are a mixture of the following representatives: H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COCT H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -C (O) -NH- CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COCT H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) _{! r} C (O) -NH- (CH ₂₎ ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃₎ ₂ CH ₂ COO ^~ H ₃ C- (CH ₂₎ ₁₃ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂₎ ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^■ H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ - CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

Particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (IV) within narrower ranges of amounts. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (I).

The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other surfactants. Particularly preferred agents contain as the third surfactant - based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent - 0.1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one betaine of the formula (V)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.

For reasons of production technology, surfactants of this type always also contain betaines of the formula (V)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M is a cation. These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Amphodiacetate, the

Representatives who are derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphodiactetate.

According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (V) which are a mixture of the following representatives:

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) _ir C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^"

Particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (V) within narrower ranges of amounts. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (V) included.

In summary, hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the radical R in the formulas (IV) and (V) is selected from

- H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ), -

- H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ - H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) - _{! T} H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ - H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -

- H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ - or mixtures of these.

In addition, the agents according to the invention may also contain nonionic, anionic, cationic and optionally also further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group , C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol, adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, Polyol fatty (partial) ester as Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis), especially of saturated C ₈ _ ₃₀ fatty acids, alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters,

Amine oxides,

Fatty acid alkanolamides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides and fatty amines and their ethylene oxide or polyglycerol addition products,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Zuckerfettsäureester and methylglucoside fatty acid esters and their ethylene oxide or

Polyglycerol addition products,

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (Soap),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH2 "CH2θ) _χ -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear

Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

Alpha sulfo fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, - alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of hydroxysulfonate surfactants, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols containing adducts of about 2-

15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),

O

Il

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n - O - P --OR ² (E1 - I)

OX

in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (E1-II)

R ⁷ CO (AIkO) _n SO ₃ M (EMI)

in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x - COR ⁸

I CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H

I

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _Z - SO ₃ X

in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide-ether carboxylic acids,

Condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types. It is preferred according to the invention to dispense with the use of alkyl and / or alkenyl sulfates in order not to impair the extremely mild properties of the agents. Preferred hair cleansing compositions of the invention are characterized by containing no alkyl and alkenyl sulfates.

With regard to particularly mild formulations, the use of alkyl or alkenyl ether sulfates is also not preferred according to the invention. Here, hair cleansers containing no alkyl and alkenyl ether sulfates are preferred.

In general, the use of sulfate surfactants in the compositions according to the invention is rather contraindicated, so that particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are free of sulphate.

Very preferred agents according to the invention are anionic surfactant-free.

Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines can be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

Particularly preferred hair cleansing according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or the esterquats and / or the amidoamines containing preferred cationic (s) Surfactant (s) is / are selected

Alkyltrimethylammoniumchloriden preferably having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or

Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or

- Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride preferably having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or

Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or distearyldimethylammonium chloride and / or - Lauryldimethylammonium chloride and / or

Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and / or

- tricetylmethylammonium chloride

- Quaternium-27 and / or Quaternium-83 and / or

- N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (ditalgacyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or

- N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (distearoyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or

N, N-dimethyl-N, N-distearoyloxyethyl ammonium chloride and / or N, N-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (fatty acid ethyl) ammonium chloride.

A particularly mild hair cleanser is based exclusively on the three mandatory surfactants. Very particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain no surfactants other than surfactants from the group of the alkyl polyglycosides and / or surfactants of the formula (IV) and / or surfactants of the formula (V).

The use of certain nonionic compounds has also proved to be detrimental to mildness and storage stability. Preferred hair cleaners according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain no polyethylene glycols.

The rheology of the compositions according to the invention can preferably be converted by the use of xanthan into the creamy flowable systems desired by the consumer. It has been found that other thickeners either impair the mildness of the formulation or do not give sufficiently storage-stable formulations.

Xanthan gum is a microbial, anionic polysaccharide excreted by Xanthomonas campestris under appropriate culture conditions. It contains D-glucose, D-mannose, D-glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate in a molar ratio of 28: 30: 20: 17: 5.1-6.3. The main chain consists of β-1, 4-linked glucose units (cellulose chain). At every second glucose residue hangs a 3-membered side chain.

The molar mass of xanthan varies from 2 ^· 10 ⁶ to 12 ^· 10 ⁶ daltons - depending on the manufacturing conditions and strain material. Xanthan gum adopts relatively rigid, regular, helical structures in aqueous solution. There can be single helices as well as double helices. Xanthan dissolves well in hot and cold water. The helices form a three-dimensional network, which causes high viscosities. Xanthan is more pseudoplastic than other known hydrocolloids and forms gels with high freeze-thaw stability Hair cleansers preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.005 to 4 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 3 wt.% And in particular 0.1 to 2 wt.% Xanthan.

The compositions of the invention are exceptionally mild and are also suitable for daily or even several times daily cleaning of the hair. The care effects of the compositions according to the invention can be further enhanced by using care enhancers. These are preferably selected from certain groups of known care substances, since these care enhancers harmonize excellently in terms of formulation and care effect with the surfactant / thickener combination according to the invention.

According to preferred hair cleansing compositions are characterized in that they additionally at least one care enhancer from the group i. L-carnitine and / or its salts; ii. the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; iii. Taurine and / or its salts; iv. Ubiquinone v. Ectoin; vi. allantoin; vii. Extracts of Echinacea included.

In hair treatment compositions of this embodiment according to the invention at least one care enhancer is included, which is selected from L-carnitine and / or its salts, 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone, taurine and / or its salts, ubiquinones, ectoine, allantoin , Extracts of Echinacea. These care enhancers are described below

L-carnitine (IUPAC name (R) - (3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl) - Λ /, Λ /, Λ / -trimethylammonium hydroxide) is a naturally occurring, vitamin-like substance. It plays an essential role in the energy metabolism of human, animal and plant cells. L-carnitine can be obtained in various ways on an industrial scale. For example, a, the body's own biosynthesis imitating, biotechnological process: In large fermentation tanks while the precursor of L-carnitine (γ-butyrobetaine) using qramneqativen bacteria (rhizobia) in L-carnitine implemented.

As betaine, L-carnitine can form addition compounds and double salts. L-carnitine derivatives which are preferred according to the invention are selected in particular from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate. The L-carnitine compounds mentioned are, for example, by the company Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal,

Germany) available.

Preferred hair-cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain from -0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.05% by weight contain up to 2.5 wt .-% L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives, preferred L-carnitine derivatives are selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.

Hair cleansers preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7 , 5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur-I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)

in which the radicals R ¹ to R ^{10 are} independently of one another

Hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical,

--C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,

--C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

--C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

- a group -NR ¹² R ¹³ , wherein R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

a group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated hydrocarbon radical, or twice unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or

Trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

- a group -CONR ¹⁵ R ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁵ and R ¹⁶ each represent hydrogen, methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

a group -COR ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or -or- or a diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

- a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ - saturated or on or - polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, a -C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical, with the proviso in that, when R ⁷ and R ^{8 are} -OH and at the same time R ⁹ or R ^{10 is} hydrogen, the remaining group R ⁹ or R ¹⁰ does not represent a dihydroxyethyl radical.

The compounds of the formulas (Fur-I) and (Fur-II) are used as intermediates in the synthesis of natural products and in the preparation of medicaments and vitamins. The preparation of the active compounds according to the formulas (Fur-I) and (Fur-II) can be carried out, for example, by reacting primary alcohols with acrylic acids. Furthermore, compounds of the formula (Fur-I) are obtained by reactions starting from hydroxypivaldehyde. Also, carbonylations of alkynes lead to substituted 2-furanones of the formula (Fur-I) or (Fur-II). Finally, the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) or of the formula (Fur-II) can be obtained by intramolecular esterification of the corresponding hydroxycarboxylic acids. For example, the following compounds are obtained in one of the previously identified synthetic routes: 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone,

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone, or 3,4-dimethyl-5-pentylidenedihydro-2 (5H) -furanone or 4-hydroxy -2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone. Of course, the 2-furanones according to the invention include all possible stereoisomers such as also their mixtures. By the 2-furanones according to the invention, the odor of the cosmetic agent is not permanently affected, so that a perfuming of the agent must be done separately.

Preferred compounds of the formula (fur-I) and / or of the formula (fur-II) can be compounds in which the substituents R ¹ , R ² and R ⁷ independently of one another represent:

Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxy-hydrocarbon radical, a group -NR ¹² R ¹³ , where R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,

a group -COOR ¹⁴ , wherein R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

- a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a - C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or on or - polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical, or a -C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical. In a further embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it has been found that, in the case of the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) or of the formula (Fur-II), the radicals R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{8 are} preferably independently of one another

Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono-, di- or trihydroxy-hydrocarbon radical or a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono, di or triaminocarbon radical.

Furthermore, it may be preferred for the radicals R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ in the active substance according to the formula (I) and / or formula (II) according to the invention to stand independently of one another for:

Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Hydrocarbon radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical or

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono, di or triaminocarbon radical.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, a compound of the formula (Fur-I) is used. It may be preferred that in a compound of the formula (fur-I), the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently of one another:

Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,

- a -C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

a group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated hydrocarbon radical, or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

a group -COR ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or -or- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, - a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a - C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or on or - polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

Furthermore, in this particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it may be advantageous if in the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) the radicals R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent:

Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or

Trihydroxy hydrocarbon residue, a group -COOR ¹⁴ , wherein R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a

C ₂ - C ₃₀ - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear

Mono-, di-, tri- and / or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon residue.

In this preferred embodiment, it may furthermore be advantageous for the compounds of the formula (Fur I) for the radicals R 5 and R _{6 to} stand independently for: a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear

Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as the compound according to the formula (Fur-I)

(R) - (-) - 4-hydroxymethyl-Y-butyrolactone and / or

D, L-4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

(S) - (+) - 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

R - (-) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

D, L-2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or S (+) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, Na salt and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, K-salt and / or

2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone and / or

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3 / - /) - furanone used. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as a compound according to the formula (Fur-I) dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) - furanone.

Another preferred care enhancer which has activating properties is taurine. Hair cleansers preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7 , 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

Another preferred group of skin care enhancers in the compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include vitamin B ₁ (thiamine) vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin) vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

In summary, preference is given to hair cleansing compositions according to the invention which, based on their weight, are 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 3.5% by weight, more preferably Contains 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors, preferably the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. 2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B ₁ ) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ , vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B ₇ , vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B ₆ and / or contain vitamin B ₁₂ .

It has been shown that certain quinones have particular suitability as a care enhancer. As a further care enhancer, the compositions according to the invention may therefore contain from 0.0001 to 5% by weight of at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)

contained in the

X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR ⁴ - or a chemical bond

R ^1, R ^2, R ³ independently represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (CrC ₆₎ alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₆₎ - alkylene, or a (C 1 -C ₆ ) -acyl radical, preferred radicals being selected independently of one another from -H, -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ R ⁴ is -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ is from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and especially for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

Preferred compounds of the formula (Ubi) according to the invention are, for example

in which

R ¹ , R ² , R ³ are each independently -H, -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃

R ⁴ is -CH ₃ , or -CH ₂ CH ₃ , or - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ n is from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and especially for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

Particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0, 1 wt .-% containing at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)

in which n stands for the values = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).

As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones. Here, preferred agents of the invention are characterized by being 0.0002 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.0015 to 1, and especially 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-b)

in which n stands for values of 1 to 20, preferably of 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, whereby particularly preferred means Plastochinon PQ-9 of the formula

contain.

As a further care enhancer, the agents according to the invention may contain ectoin. Ectoine ((4S) - 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid) is a natural product belonging to the group of compatible solutes. The highly water-binding low molecular weight organic compound occurs in halophilic bacteria and allows these extremophilic organisms to survive under stress conditions. According to the invention preferred hair cleansers are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0 , 1 to 1% by weight of (S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (ectoine) and the physiologically tolerated salts of this compound and / or (S, S) -5- Hydroxy-2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (hydroxyectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts of this compound.

Another nurse enhancer is allantoin. Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin, Λ / - (2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl) urea) is the final product of nucleic acid degradation, especially of purine, in various animal species, especially mammals, in addition to uric acid.

Allantoin is used in cosmetics in skin creams, sunscreens, shampoos, toothpaste and anti-sweating (hyperhidrosis) and skin irritants. It accelerates cell building, cell formation or cell regeneration and calms the skin. The healing of hard-healing wounds is also supported, but allantoin has no antiseptic properties.

According to the invention, particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 1 5% ureidohydantoin (allantoin). Further care enhancers according to the invention are plant extracts.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

As extractants for the preparation of said plants extra kte water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

Especially preferred are extracts of Echinacea or Moringa plants, with Echinacea extracts being particularly preferred. The genus of coneflower (Echinaceae) includes North American perennials, some of which have long been supportive

Treatment of infections (internal) and wounds (external) are used. Echinacea extracts are known to be used to stimulate the immune system and as an antimicrobial and antiviral substance

The plant extracts from plants of the genus Echinacea can from various Sonnenhutgewächsen (Echinacea, synonym: Brauneria NECKER), in particular from Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (NORTON), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (MCGREGOR), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), as well as from these extracts to be recovered active substances. Extracts of coneflower plants, in particular Echinacea purpurea (L) MOENCH, are particularly preferably used.

The extracts are preferably obtained from cabbage (the above-ground parts of plants) and / or root of the coneflower family. The extracts may be prepared with water, as well as polar or nonpolar organic solvents, as well as mixtures thereof in a manner known to those skilled in the art. Extracts that can be obtained by extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures and press juice are preferred.

It is possible to use both the extracts both in the original extractant and extracts / compressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or mixtures thereof, in particular ethanol and ethanol / water mixtures. Preferably, extracted or pressed material is used as a solid to which the solvent (in particular as gently as possible) was removed. However, it is also possible to use those extracts / compressed juices to which the solvent has been partly removed, so that a thickened extract / compressed juice is used. Very particular preference is given to pressed juices from the fresh Echinacea purpurea herb (Echinacea purpurea Moench herba). In particular, the extracts and / or compressed juices are used in solid form.

According to the invention particularly preferred hair cleansers are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 2 wt .-% active ingredient, obtainable from plants of the genus Echinacea, preferably from pressed juices and extracts, the are obtained from Echinacea purpurea.

To improve the elasticity and strengthen the internal structure of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or purine derivatives as care-enhancing agents. In particular, the combination of purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones as skin care enhancers means that the hairs treated with appropriate agents show, inter alia, higher measured values in differential thermal analysis and improved wet and dry combabilities. Purine (7 / - / - imidazo [4,5-c /] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of the purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower quantitative ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. According to the invention preferred hair cleansers are characterized in that they are used as care enhancers - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt. % and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s), wherein preferred agents purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (Pur-I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ - CH ₃ , with the following compounds being preferred:

Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ ) Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

It is also advantageous to use purine or purine derivatives and biochinones in a certain ratio to each other. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the weight ratio of purine (derivative (s)) and biochinone (s) is 10: 1 to 1: 100, preferably 5: 1 to 1:50, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1:20 and in particular 1: 1 to 1:10.

As already mentioned, caffeine is a particularly preferred purine derivative, and coenzyme Q10 is a particularly preferred biochinone. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% caffeine and 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% coenzyme Q10 included.

As a care enhancer, the agents according to the invention may also contain flavonoids. The flavonoids are a group of water-soluble plant dyes and play an important role in the metabolism of many plants. They belong together with the phenolic acids to the polyphenols. There are well over 6500 different flavonoids known, which can be divided into flavonols, flavones, flavanones, isoflavonoids and anthocyanins.

According to the invention, flavonoids from all six groups can be used, with certain representatives from the individual groups being preferred as care enhancers because of their particularly intensive action. Preferred flavonols are quercetin, rutin, kaempferol, myricetin, isorhamnetin, preferred flavanols are catechin, gallocatechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, theaflavin, thearubigin, preferred flavones are luteolin, apigenin, morin, preferred flavanones are hesperetin, naringenin, eriodictyol, preferred isoflavonoids are genistein , Daidzein, and preferred anthocyanidins (anthocyanins) are cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, pelargonidin, peonidin, petunidin.

According to the invention particularly preferred hair cleansing compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of flavonoids, in particular flavonols, more preferably 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone (quercetin) and / or 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone -3-O-rutinoside (rutin), included.

Preference is also the use of bisabolol and / or bisabololoxides as care enhancers in the inventive compositions. Hair-cleansing compositions according to the invention which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 4 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt.% And in particular 0.1 to 1.5 wt % Bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol

contain.

Also, creatine is inventively suitable as a care enhancer. Creatine (3-methylguanidinoacetic acid) is an organic acid found in vertebrates and the like. a. contributes to supplying the muscles with energy. Creatine is synthesized in the kidney, liver and pancreas. It is formally derived from the amino acids glycine and arginine and is 95% present in skeletal muscle. Particularly preferred hair-cleaners according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 1 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% Λ / -methyl-guanidino-acetic acid (creatine).

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the ingredients mentioned above and optional further ingredients, other substances which prevent, alleviate or cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below:

Propecia (Finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone.

Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.

To combat the hormonal influences on the hair follicles spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole. By additional anti-dandruff agents (for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or

Zinc pyrithione), the amount of dandruff that causes dandruff is purposefully reduced, the germ flora reverts to the normal percentage composition and the desquamation is reduced to the physiological level. However, laboratory tests have shown that the different species representatives of Pityrosporum ovale react differently to the antidandruff active ingredients. In order to maximally combat all dandruff is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.

In summary, preference is given to hair cleansing compositions according to the invention which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.

In addition to the care enhancers, the agents according to the invention may contain further care substances. Their presence is not absolutely necessary for achieving the effects according to the invention, but further effects, such as a pleasant touch or a pleasant application feel, can result from the use of these care substances.

As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-AIINn), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred hair cleansing compositions are characterized in that they are used as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

As a further component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here are preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention characterized in that they as Nursing material - based on its weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides, preferred carbohydrates are selected from Monosachhariden, in particular

D-ribose and / or

D-xylose and / or

L-arabinose and / or

D-glucose and / or

D-mannose and / or

D-galactose and / or

D-fructose and / or

Sorbose and / or

L-fucose and / or

L-Rhamnose disaccharides, in particular

Sucrose and / or

Maltose and / or

Lactose and / or

Trehalose and / or

Cellobiose and / or

Gentiobiose and / or

Isomaltose.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose.

As already mentioned, preferred agents according to the invention contain (a) amino acid (s).

Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used. Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in a narrower range

Tonnage bands. Here, according to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0 , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or VaNn and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to

0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to

0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

0.25% by weight of valine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients are the silicones.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone, preferably a silicone, selected from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked; (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; I) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups; (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>

3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end; (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone onto which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ; or their mixtures.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean.

Preferred silicones are described below.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-I

(CH ₃₎ 3 Si- [O-Si (CH3) 2] χ-O-Si (CH ₃₎ 3 (Si-I),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

These silicones are called DIMETHICONE according to the INCI nomenclature. In the context of the present invention, as the silicone of the formula Si-1, the compounds are preferably:

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] 4 O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] 5-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] 7-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O - (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] 8 O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] 9-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH3) 3Si- [O- (CH3) 2Si] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH3) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₁ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH3) 3 Si - [O- (CH3) 2 Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH3) 3

(CH3) 3Si- [O- (CH3) 2 Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH3) 3

(CH3) 3 Si - [O- (CH3) 2 Si] ₁₄ -O-Si (CH3) 3

(CH3) 3 Si - [O- (CH3) 2 Si] ₁₅ -O-Si (CH3) 3

(CH3) 3 Si - [O- (CH3) 2 Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH3) 3

(CH3) 3 Si - [O- (CH3) 2 Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH3) 3

(CH 3) 3 Si - [O- (CH 3) 2 Si] ₁₈ -O-Si (CH 3) 3

(CH3) 3Si- [O- (CH3) 2 Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH3) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] 20 O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3, (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [ O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred.

Of course, mixtures of o.g. Silicones may be included in the compositions of the invention.

Preferred according to the invention can be used silicones have viscosities at 20 ⁰ C for from 0.2 to 2 mmV ^1, wherein silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mmV ¹ are particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. through the formula

M (R _a Q _b Si0 ₍₄ - _a - _{b) / 2) x} (R _c Si0 ₍₄ - _{c) / 2) y} M

wherein R in the above formula is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon group of 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar group of the general formula -R ¹ HZ wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and the group Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number in the range of 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50 and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, A-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ J ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO ₍₄ - _a - _{b) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _(4. _{c) / 2} units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variables can be used Substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-II)

R _'a G ₃ _ _a -Si (OSiG ₂₎ _n - (OSiG _b R' ₂ _ _b) _m -O-SiG ₃ _ _a -R _'a (Si-II),

contain, in which means: G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CHa) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;

a is a number between O and 3, in particular O;

b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from O -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂ O -QN (FT) ₂ O -QN ⁺ (R ") ₃ A- o -QN ⁺ H (R ") ₂ A ^" o -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") A ^" o -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ A ^" , where each Q is a chemical Bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CHa) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -, R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ - CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci_ ₂₀ -alkyl, preferably -CH _3, -CH ₂ CH _3, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH _3, - CH (CH ₃₎ _2, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H _3, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃₎ _2, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n [OSi (CH ₃ )] _m -OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-IIa),

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Also particularly preferred are agents according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb) R- [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O] _n ₁ [Si (R) -O] _m - [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n ₂ -R (Si-IIb),

I (CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g, are preferred , The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.

The INCI CYCLOMETHICONE designated cyclic dimethicones are inventively used with preference. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-III

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-IV R ₃ Si [O-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-IV),

included, in which R stands for identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃₎ Ph, the CI_ ₂₀ -alkyl, preferably -CH _3, -CH ₂ CH _3, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C ( CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone.

For aesthetic reasons, "clear" products are often preferred by consumers, hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized by being transparent or translucent.

In the context of the present invention, transparent or translucent is understood as meaning a composition which has an NTU value of less than 100. The NTU value (Nephelometrie Turbidity Unit, NTU) is a unit used in water treatment for turbidity measurements in liquids. It is the unit of turbidity measured with a calibrated nephelometer.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^®, ^® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic aeid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methanesulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1, 3 dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 ^® Eusolex 9020), α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) - toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25) 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® 018) , 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan e 1000 ^®), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-lsopro- pylbenzylsalicylat, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxi) -1, 3 , 5-triazine, 3-l midazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400) 1, 1 '- Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilates ; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2 '2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone , 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-yl-methanesulphonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-) yliden) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl A-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl A-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2 -Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-) carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of the N- {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Propan-1, 3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that in structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the context of the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds extending from it by a or distinguish several additional ionic groups. As insoluble in water are in the context of

Invention to understand those UV filters that dissolve at 20 ⁰ C to not more than 1 wt .-%, in particular to not more than 0.1 wt .-%, in water. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U - Q.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function , Compounds from which the structural part U can be derived are, for example, substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters,

diphenylacrylic,

cinnamic,

salicylic acid,

Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be selected such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferred a group, especially an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) χ-N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^" , where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are Ci Alkyl groups, R ³ is a C- ₂₂ alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The compositions of the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2

Hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

Advantageously in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) may additionally support the active ingredient complex (A). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids used according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids used according to the invention include, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl , Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particular preference is given to substituents in the D position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, where C ¹ degrees of gyration of from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component are preferred,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionogenic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

It has furthermore proven to be advantageous if, in addition to the polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, further polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, the inventive agents therefore added more polymers, both anionic and nonionic polymers have been found to be effective.

The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention. Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids.

Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules). Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch; shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ^° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups. Glycosidically substituted silicones.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred. The compositions according to the invention have advantageous properties and also confer advantageous properties on the hair treated with them. Benefits have been observed especially in hair and scalp treatment.

A further subject of the present invention is the use of mixtures of (a) nicotinic acid (I) and / or nicotinic acid amide (II)

(b) panthenol (IM)

to improve the hair structure.

The improvement of the hair structure is particularly evident in that the hairs treated with the compositions according to the invention are stronger, have a more pleasant, less brittle feel and have higher tensile strengths. Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of mixtures of (a) nicotinic acid (I) and / or nicotinic acid amide (II)

to improve the strength and / or feel and / or tensile strength of keratin fibers.

With regard to further preferred uses, mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Claims

claims:

1. hair cleanser containing in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle - based on its weight -

(b) 0.1 to 10% by weight of panthenol (III)

2. Hair cleanser according to claim 1, characterized in that it is 0.2 to 9% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8 wt .-%, more preferably 0.3 to 7 wt .-%, further preferably 0.4 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% nicotinic acid (I) and / or nicotinamide (II).

3. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it is 0.2 to 9 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 8 wt .-%, more preferably 0.3 to 7 wt .-%, further preferably from 0.4 to 6% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight of (±) -2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide (rac. panthenol) contains.

4. hair cleanser according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it is 0.2 to 9 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 8 wt .-%, more preferably 0.3 to 7 wt .-%, further preferably from 0.4 to 6% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight of (f?) - (+) - 2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide

(Dexpanthenol).

5. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one Alkylpolyglycosids.

6. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one betaine of the formula (IV)

7. hair cleaning agent according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one betaine of the formula (V)

8. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains no alkyl and alkenyl sulfates.

9. hair cleanser according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains no alkyl and Alkenylethersulfate.

10. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is sulphate-free.

11. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains no polyethylene glycols.

12. Hair cleanser according to any one of claims 5 to 1 1, characterized in that it contains no surfactants other than surfactants from the group of alkylpolyglycosides and / or surfactants of the formula (IV) and / or surfactants of the formula (V).

13. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one care enhancer from the group viii. L-carnitine and / or its salts; ix. the 2-furanones and / or their derivatives, in particular pantolactone; x. Taurine and / or its salts; xi. Ubiquinone xii. Ectoin; xiii. allantoin; xiv. Contains extracts of Echinacea.

14. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it - based on its weight -0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt. contains -% and in particular 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives, with preferred L-carnitine derivatives are selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, Lauroyl-L-carnitine and especially L-carnitine tartrate.

15. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur-I) and / or the formula (Fur-II )

contains, in which the radicals R ¹ to R ^{10 are} independently of one another for

Hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical,

a group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a - C ₂ - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono- , Di- or triaminocarbon radical,

16. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-Aminoethansulfonsäure).

17. hair cleansing composition according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3, Contains 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors, preferably the groups A, B , C, E, F and H, with preferred agents 2,4-dihydroxy-Λ / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl- butyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine

(Vitamin B ₁ ) and / or riboflavin (Vitamin B ₂ , Vitamin G) and / or biotin (Vitamin B ₇ , Vitamin H) and / or folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c or Vitamin M) and / or Vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin B ₁₂ included.

18. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 % By weight of at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)

19. Hair cleaning composition according to one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that it - based on its weight - from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% (S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (ectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts of this compound and / or ( S, S) -5-hydroxy-2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (hydroxyectoine) and the physiologically tolerated salts of this compound.

20. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that it - based on its weight - from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% 5-ureidohydantoin (allantoin).

21. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that it - based on its weight - from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 2 wt .-% active ingredient, obtainable from plants of the genus Echinacea, preferably from pressed juices and extracts obtained from Echinacea purpurea.

22. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that it - based on its weight - from 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% Purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s), preferred agents being purine and / or

Purine derivative (s) of the formula (Pur-I) included

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , where the following compounds are preferred:

Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

23. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% flavonoids, especially flavonols, more preferably 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-Pentahydroxyflavon (quercetin) and / or 3, 3 ', 4' , 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-O-rutinoside (rutin).

24. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 23, characterized in that it additionally contains 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 1, 5% by weight of bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol

contains.

25. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% Λ / -methyl-guanidino-acetic acid (creatine).

26. Hair cleanser according to one of claims 1 to 25, characterized in that it additionally - based on its weight - from 0.001 to 5 wt .-% antidandruff active ingredients, in particular Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2.4 , 4-trirnethylpentyl) pyridine-2 (1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.

27. Use of mixtures from

(c) nicotinic acid (I) and / or nicotinic acid amide (II)

to improve the hair structure.

28. Use of mixtures from

(c) nicotinic acid (I) and / or nicotinic acid amide (II)

(d) panthenol (IM)