WO2008031684A1 - Apium graveleons extract for stimulating hair growth - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a means, containing active ingredients, which may be obtained from plants of the species Apium, for treating hair, in particular, for vitalising hair, stimulating metabolism in hair follicles, activating hair follicles, promoting or reinforcing hair growth, hair thickening, treating hair loss and conditioning hair.

Description

 Extract of Apium graveleons to stimulate hair growth

description

The present invention relates to the use of an agent containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Apium for the treatment of hair.

The human skin with its appendages is a very complex organ composed of a variety of different cell types. Every living cell of this organ is able to respond to signals of its internal and external environment. These reactions of the cells are realized by an orderly regulation on gene and protein level, so that the metabolism of skin cells and their appendages is not static but very dynamic. However, the reactions of the skin and / or its appendages to environmental changes should not be considered as reactions of isolated isolated cells. Rather, each cell is integrated into a complex communication network. This network includes e.g. the communication between cells of the epidermis and cells of the dermis. At the communication between the cells of the skin and / or their appendages, signal molecules, e.g. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF), etc. are involved.

The aging process is a fundamental biological process found in almost all living organisms. Accordingly, the human skin is affected by this phenomenon. Skin aging is a progressive process leading to a loss of skin homeostasis. It is influenced by endogenous and exogenous factors. While the endogenous aspects run as a "genetically controlled program", environmental factors such as UV light are responsible for the exogenous factors.

ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is the universal storage form for chemical energy in cells. Cleavage of the distal phosphate group produces ADP and Pi (inorganic phosphate). This reaction is highly exergonic, meaning it releases energy. ATP is produced in the cellular, oxidative degradation of fats, carbohydrates and proteins. ATP serves the cell, also the biologically active cells of the hair follicle, as an energy source for biochemical syntheses and transport processes. These processes are endergonic, ie they only take place when energy is supplied. In order to optimally maintain and renew their metabolism and cellular structures, cells are therefore dependent on an adequate supply of ATP. For example, the proliferation and differentiation of ORS keratinocytes (outer root sheath keratinocytes) is coupled to ATP synthesis, as both processes involve the biosynthesis of specific proteins essential condition is. For example, dermal papilla cells also require the production of growth factors and thus the control of the hair cycle ATP. Therefore, a sufficient supply of the hair follicle with ATP is essential for strong, vital and healthy hair.

The amount of a hair-active agent, which can usually penetrate transdermally and especially transfollicularly to the hair bulb, is extremely low and depends essentially on the physicochemical properties of the substance itself (eg size, charge, lipophilicity) and the choice of formulation.

Hair follicle cells undergo a genetically determined cycle of growth, regression, and resting phase. The hair follicle is thus the only organ that constantly renews itself and thus, depending on the respective growth phase, has a unique metabolism. Thus, the hair follicle's metabolism almost completely stops in the resting phase and is also reinitiated with each new beginning of another cycle.

This cycle is controlled by a small, highly specialized cell population in the hair bulb, the dermal papilla cells, which control hair growth through a complex set of molecular signals specific to each phase of the hair cycle (Botchkarev VA et al. (2003) J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 8: 46-55).

The genus of celery (Apium) includes the different types of celery Apium graveolens (true celery), Apium inundatum (flowering celery), Apium nodiflorum (nodular celery) and Apium repens (creeping celery).

The fruits of the real celery are popularly used occasionally as a diuretic in diseases of the urinary tract and in rheumatic diseases and gout, and as so-called "blood cleansers".

EP1232167 describes the anti-oxidative effect of aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic extracts of germinating plants. The selection of a germinating plant is called celery. The extracts are said to provide UV protection and protection against environmental toxins in skin and hair cells.

JP2001139484 discloses the topical use of cosmetic preparations with extracts which may contain Apium graveolens. The skin care formulations described are said to have an anti-oxidative effect. It has now surprisingly been found that when applying agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium on the hair, scalp, hairy skin or on skin areas where hair growth has been discontinued for a long time, but where hair growth is desired, the hair root reactivates and hair growth is significantly improved.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that the use of these agents, the metabolism of these highly specialized cells are modulated and the ATP synthesis in the hair follicle can be particularly strong stimulated.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that the agents containing active ingredients obtained from plants of the genus Apium are suitable for stimulating the release of growth factors and for strengthening and / or thickening the hair by stimulating the proliferation of the hair keratinocytes.

The present invention therefore relates to the use of an agent containing active compounds which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium for the treatment of hair, in particular for the stimulation of hair growth and for strengthening (thickening) of the hair.

Apium is selected in particular from Apium graveolens (true celery), Apium inundatum

(Flowering celery), Apium nodiflorum (nodular celery), and / or Apium repens (creeping

Celery). Apium graveolens is preferably used by the company Frutarom.

Active substances obtainable from plants of the genus Apium, according to the invention, are to be understood as meaning the plant itself, its plant parts, extracts and pressed juices of Apium graveolens, in particular from the seeds, and active substances to be obtained from these extracts.

Particularly preferred are extracts of Apium graveolens.

The pressed juices or extracts are preferably obtained from the leaves, fruits, flowers, stems, roots, tubers and / or seeds of the Apium plant.

Preference is given to aqueous extracts or aqueous-alcoholic extracts or aqueous-organic extracts or alcoholic extracts of the Apium plant.

The extracts may be prepared with water, as well as polar or nonpolar organic solvents, as well as mixtures thereof in a manner known to those skilled in the art. Extracts that can be obtained by extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures and press juice are preferred. Besides ethanol, the active compounds from the Apium plant can also be obtained by extraction with other alcohols, for example with methanol, propanol, propanol, isopronaol and / or propylene glycol. The ratio of alcohol to water is preferably 1: 1 to 1: 2 or 1: 3.

It is possible to use both the extracts in the original extractant and extracts / compressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or mixtures thereof, in particular ethanol, and also ethanol / water mixtures. Preferably, extracted or pressed material is used as a solid to which the solvent (in particular as gently as possible) was removed. However, it is also possible to use those extracts / compressed juices to which the solvent has been partly removed, so that a thickened extract / compressed juice is used. In particular, the extracts and / or compressed juices are used in solid form.

It could be shown that the amount of ATP in the treated follicles is significantly increased in comparison with a sample which does not contain any active ingredients of the Apium plants (Example 7, Table 1). Thus, the biologically active part of the hair is provided significantly more ATP as an energy source for biochemical syntheses and transport processes, so that metabolic processes and cellular structures can be optimally maintained and renewed. The hair is thereby fortified and vitalized and can better repair damage or build new hair. The increase in metabolic activity promotes hair growth, since for the underlying processes sufficient building blocks such as e.g. Amino acids must be provided for protein synthesis; the energy required for this purpose is e.g. provided by the metabolism of glucose.

Furthermore, it has been found that the use of agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium, lead to an excitation of the hair growth (Example 8) and a strengthening of the vital hair (Example 9).

An increase in the expression of the growth factor KGF (keratinocyte growth factor, keratinocyte growth factor) in the dermal papilla cells could be detected.

Another advantage of the present invention is that the agents containing agents derived from Apium plants are able to positively affect hair growth by activating not only genes that promote hair growth, but also specific hair growth inhibiting genes are repressed (eg TGFbI, IGFBP3, Example 8). The repression of the inhibiting genes causes the hair root to reactivate and premature hair loss can be prevented. In addition, the hair structure is already influenced by the hair roots, so that the hair can regrow vigorously and healthy. Furthermore, it has been found that by the application of the said agents, the hair is positively influenced in its structure, its growth and its metabolism. The gene expression of the important hair genes was significantly regulated by the use of the agent according to the invention.

The penetration of active substances into the follicle is usually more difficult since the corresponding target, the dermal papilla and the ORS keratinocytes, are embedded approximately 2 mm deep in the scalp. The use of liposomes increases the penetration of an active ingredient so that liposomally encapsulated compositions containing Apiumpfanzen active ingredients work very well. Surprisingly, it has been found that these compositions show sufficient penetration to the site of action even if the use of liposomes is not possible for formulation-technical reasons.

The active compounds obtainable from plants of the genus Apium are preferred in

Hair treatment products, especially shampoos, hair conditioners, hair gels,

Hair lotions, hair treatments, hair creams, hair lotions, hair sprays and hair tinctures.

The application of these agents is usually topical, wherein the agent simply by spraying into the hair or on the scalp, massage, apply and / or kneading is applied.

After the application of the agent in the form of hair gel, hair lotions, hair conditioner, hair cream, hair lotion,

Hair spray and hair tincture, it is usually not necessary to rinse the hair or scalp again or treat with other additional means to a positive effect of

To reach by means. The funds can remain on the hair.

For shampoo and hair conditioner, the agent can be rinsed off after a contact time.

This rinsing can be done with pure water or a commercially available shampoo.

Exposure times of 10 seconds to 15 minutes have proven sufficient in most cases.

Regardless of the exact course of the treatment, it has proven to be advantageous to apply the means at a temperature of 20 to 55 ° C, in particular from 35 to 40 ⁰ C, apply.

However, it is advantageous if agents are used, after their use, the active ingredients of the Apiumpflanze can remain in the hair and are not washed out. As a result, a temporally improved penetration of active ingredients is granted to the hair follicle.

However, there are no fundamental limitations with regard to the way in which the funds can be applied to the hair. Active substances obtainable from plants of the genus Apium, preferably the pressed juices and / or extracts of Apium, are preferably present in said agents in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total preparation. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred, amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred, and amounts of 0.01 to 2 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.

Of particular interest according to the invention are Haartonics, especially as a leave on formulation. These are preferably used at room temperature, the alcoholic content is preferably in the range of about 30% to about 35% and the pH should be about pH 7. Especially in Haartonics, the use of liposome-encapsulated active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Apium has proved to be advantageous. The encapsulation of the active compounds obtainable from extracts and / or press juices from the plant of the genus Apium, with subsequent encapsulation in liposomes is particularly preferred. Such liposomes can be used in particular in Haartonics.

In the encapsulated liposomes other substances may be encapsulated in addition to the active ingredients of the Apiumpflanze, which are useful for the application.

Although the use of the aforesaid hair treatment compositions is preferred according to the invention, the agents containing the active ingredients of the plants of the genus Apium, more preferably pressed juice or (aqueous) extracts of Apium graveolens, may also be used for other hair treatment agents, e.g. Hair colorants and waving agents are added. These agents then optionally contain the known substantive dyes, precursors for oxidation dyes (developer and coupler components) and oxidizing or reducing agents. Advantageously, the agents can thus protect the hair from the stress of dyeing, activate the hair follicle and at the same time reduce or relieve skin irritation through the hair dye or hair dye.

For example, creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (called phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, are packaged as formulations of the preparations containing the agents according to the invention. Gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols. These are usually formulated on an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic basis. As alcoholic component while lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the mixture of alcohol and water, can be preferred bases according to the invention. The pH of this Preparations may in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. To adjust this pH, virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used. Usually, acids are used as acids. Acid acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Exotic acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

The funds can be made up as a single-chamber system or as a two-chamber system.

In addition to the essential active ingredients of the Apium plant, the agents may in principle contain all other components known to those skilled in the art of such cosmetic compositions.

Thus, the agents may additionally comprise protein hydrolysates. Preferably, they are cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate is derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives, those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products called: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiCl, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed SiCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / S iloxysilicate, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silica, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silica, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Sick, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Furthermore, film-forming substances can additionally be incorporated into the formulations, which are absorbed by the hair and thus thicken directly and perceptibly. Suitable film formers are known to the person skilled in the art and are selected, for example, from polymers, e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, such an agent contains a hair growth stimulating agent. Particular preference is given to using those compounds which are selected from 5-α-reductase inhibitors, minoxidil (6-piperidino-2,4-pyrimidinediamine-3-oxide) and aminexil (diaminopyrimidine oxide) as hair growth-stimulating active substances. Particularly suitable 5-α-reductase inhibitors are functional C 2 -C 12 -carboxylic acids and their physiologically acceptable metal salts, in particular 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid and its derivatives, derivatives of C 3 -C 9 -polymers, phenol derivatives, plant extracts, fragrances, flavonoids, isoflavonoids, 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes, aluminum chlorohydrate, 2-phenylethanol, etidronic acid, 7- Acetyl-1, 1, 3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, tropolone derivatives, esters of sulfuric acid with alkoxylated

C8-C18 fatty alcohols and their physiologically acceptable metal salts, esters of phosphoric acid and triphosphoric acid with monovalent to hexavalent hydroxy compounds, silicic acid esters, isolable mycosporin-like amino acids (MAA) from marine organisms and quaternary

Silicone compounds.

By derivatives are meant in particular their salts, esters and amides.

Very particular preference is given to 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid and finasteride

(N-tert-butyl-3-oxo-4-aza-5α-androst-1-ene-17β-carboxamide) and their derivatives.

It has been found that the hair growth-stimulating effect of the active ingredients can be improved by their use in agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium. Particular preference is given to those agents which, in addition to the active compounds obtainable from Apium plants, particularly preferably (aqueous) extracts or pressed juices of Apium graveolens, contain at least one further active ingredient selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid, minoxidil and finasteride. Most preferably, the hair growth stimulating agent is also selected in this combination from minoxidil and finasteride.

Further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example, nonionic surfactants such as alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk (en) yloligoglucosides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters and polysorbates , If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional or narrow homolog distribution. anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic mono- and

-dialkylester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, zwitterionic surfactants, in particular the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N , N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, the cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyl- dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline with in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate, ampholytic surfactants such as, for example, N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N alkyl taurine, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic and alkyl aminoacetic acids with each about

8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group, nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers,

Polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya

Gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. B.

Methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and

Derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. B. bentonite or fully synthetic

Hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,

Structural agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and

Cephalins, as well as silicone oils,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and

Diethylene glycol, symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers with a total of between

12 to 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl -n-octyl ether, n-

Octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert. Butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,

Fatty alcohols, in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 C atoms, and

Monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms,

Fatty acid fiber structure-improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil,

Almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach kernel oil as well as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg

Lecithin and cephaline, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,

Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, other substances for adjusting the pH, such as α- and ß-

hydroxy

Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol, Cholesterol,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Fats and natural or synthetic waxes,

fatty acid,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,

Hydrogencarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,

Thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

Antioxidants.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C6-C30, preferably C10-C22 and very particularly preferably C12-C22, carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol®, eg Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, eg Lanette® O or Lorol®, eg Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, eg Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 for sale. Of course, according to the invention, wool wax alcohols, such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight. The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmic acids, such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis). Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.1-10% by weight, with amounts of 0.1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, montan wax, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can advantageously be used according to the invention include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n- octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether. The commercially available compounds 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, eg in the pressure cracking of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleylalkohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and Brassidylalkohol and their technical mixtures, eg incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred according to the invention are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoate C16-18-alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B) , Myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2) ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures.

With the use of technical products production-related still small quantities

Be included triglycerides.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%.

The agents may also contain surfactants. These may be anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well as cationic surfactants.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, for example in a shampoo, a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants is used. However, in a hair tonic, the skilled person can also largely or completely dispense with the use of surfactants.

It has proven advantageous in individual cases to select the surfactants from amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.

Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 ° C -Atoms (soaps), - ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

- Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH2-CH2O) x-OSO3H in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates, amide ether carboxylic acids as described in US Pat EP 0 690 044, condensation products of C8 - C30 fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and derivatives thereof which are known to the person skilled in the art as protein fatty acid condensates, for example the Lamepon® types, Gluadin® types, Hostapon® KCG or the Amisoft® types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear

Fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols with

8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide

glycerin, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs and

Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, adducts of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide end-capped with a methyl or C 2 -C 6 -alkyl radical onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Atoms, fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms

Atoms in the alkyl group, such as those under the sales name Dehydol®

LS, Dehydol® LT (Cognis) available types,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or

Sovermol types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters,

Amine oxides,

Hydro xymischether, as described for example in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type.

The preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R ¹ O- (Z) _x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R ¹ contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When so-called "oxo-alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate. The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R ¹ . Usually, however, these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.

Particularly preferred alkyl polyglycosides are those in which R ¹ consists essentially of C ₈ - and C _O alkyl groups, essentially of C ₂ - and C ₄ alkyl groups, essentially of C ₈ - to C ₆ -alkyl or substantially of C ₂ - to Ci ₆ alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.

In addition to their surfactant action, the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair. The person skilled in the art will therefore prefer to use this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.

The alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ or -SO ₃ ⁽⁾ group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimetic acid thylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylgly- cinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Also particularly suitable as co-surfactants are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ alkyl- -C ₈ -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or - contain SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming inner salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C - atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate the, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C ₂ -i ₈ acyl sarcosine.

According to the invention, the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An invention Particularly suitable compound from this group of substances is the commercially available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologues which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

Also advantageous has proved the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

Vitamin B1 (thiamine) - Vitamin B2 (riboflavin) Vitamin B3. Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B5 type are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

The preparations used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Of course, several vitamins and vitamin precursors may also be present at the same time. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

The amount of vitamins and vitamin precursors used in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.0001-10% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.0001-5% by weight, and in particular 0.0001-3% by weight. %.

Finally, further plant extracts can be used in the compositions according to the invention.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

One or more of these plant extracts may be incorporated into the agents used, the active compounds which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium. The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publisher, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is the use of an agent containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Apium, wherein the agent may contain additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of protein hydrolysates, film-forming substances, other hair growth stimulating agents, nonionic surfactants, anioic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic polymers, thickeners, perfume oils, dyes, light stabilizers, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, reducing agents.

Another object of the present invention is the use, in particular the cosmetic use for vitalization of hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and hair conditioning.

Very particular preference is given to the use of an agent containing active substances which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium for the treatment of hair.

In particular, an object of the present invention is the use of an agent containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Apium to stimulate hair growth and to re-activate the hair roots, especially where hair growth has been discontinued for a long time. The reactivation is effected in particular by repression and / or reduction of hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells.

Another object of the present invention is a method, in particular a cosmetic method for revitalizing hair, hair thickening, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth or for hair conditioning, characterized in that a means containing active ingredients, obtainable from plants of the genus Apium, applied to the hair or the hairy skin.

As a result, hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells are repressed and / or reduced, so that the hair growth and the hair roots are stimulated and reactivated.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it to:

All figures are in weight percent (w%).

Information on the substances used in the examples:

Extract of Apium qraveolens

Aqueous and then dried extract of Apium graveolens, according to the company name

Frutarom used processes prepared, solid Carbopol ETD2020

Noveon (Quimidroga)

Acrylic acid copolymer

ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSPOLYMER

Protein extract from soy

Cosmetochem

PROPYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA, GLYCINE SOY SEED EXTRACT

Tea extract

Cosmetochem

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACT

Octopirox®

Clariant

Hydroxy-4-methyl-6 (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone-monoethanolamine salt

PIROCTONE OLAMINE

Rovisome CT

Rovi pH 5.5-6.5 MD 200-500nm

AQUA (WATER), ALCOHOL DENAT., LECITHIN, CARNITINE TARTRATE

Cremophor A25

Cremophor O (formerly)

BASF

Fatty alcohols, C16-18, ethoxylated (25 EO)

CETEARETH-25

FAEOS-Na C12-14 2 EO 70% Cognis Deutschland GmbH SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE

Antil 141 L

Goldschmidt (Degussa) Polyethoxypropylene glycoldioleate

PROPYLENE GLYCOL, PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE

C * Pharm 02010 Cerestar (Inter-Harz GmbH) Glucose H2_O * D (+) - Grape sugar H2_O GLUCOSE

PEG-40 hydroquenated Castor OiI 455

Cognis Germany GmbH

PEG-40 HYDOGENATED CASTOR OIL, PROPYLENE GLYCOL

Euperlan PK 3000 AM

Cognis Germany GmbH

AQUA (WATER), GLYCOL DISARTARATE, GLYCERINE, LAURETH-4, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE,

FORMIC ACID

Timiron Supersheen MP-1001 Iriodin Ti 100 FK (formerly)

Merck

MICA, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)

Cutina CP

Cutina CP V (formerly) Cutina CP PF (formerly) Cognis Germany GmbH Cetyl palmitate (vegetable base) CETYL PALMITATE

Eumulqin B2

Disponil B 3

Cognis Germany GmbH

Fatty alcohols, C16-18, ethoxylated (30 EO)

CETEARETH-30

Genamine KDMP Clariant

Trimethyl-N (C20-22-alkyl) ammonium chlorides * N, N, N-BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE

Structure XL (28-030A)

National Starch

HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE

Wacker-Belsil ADM 8020 VP

brave

AMODIMETHICONE, TRIDECETH-5, GLYCERINE, TRIDECETH-10

Gluadin WQ

Cognis Germany GmbH,

AQUA (WATER), LAURDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYL HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN,

ETHYLPARABLES, METHYLPARABES

Protein hydrolyzates, wheat germ, (3- (dodecyldimethylammonio) -2-hydroxypropyl), chlorides about 30-35% content

Gluadin WLM

Cognis Germany GmbH

Wheat protein hydrolyzate in H2O

INCI declaration [INCI] HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN

Salary about 20-24%

Cetiol HE

Cognis Germany GmbH

Coconut monoglyceride ethoxylated (7 EO)

INCI declaration [INCI] PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE

Aiidew NL 50

Ajinomoto

Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid sodium salt

Na-PCA

SODIUM PCA

Arlypon F

Cognis Germany GmbH

Lauromacrogol JP 12 (Pharmacopoeia of Japan)

* NLP

C12-14 fatty alcohols ethoxylated (2.5 EO)

LAURETH-2

Synthal K Synthal KD (old) 3V Sigma polyacrylic acid CARBOMER

Neutrol TE

BASF

Tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine * N, N, N ', N', - edetol

TETRAHYDROXYPROPYL ETHYLENEDIAMINE

Formulierunqsbeispiele

Example 1: Hair Tonic

Water ad 100

Carbopol ETD 2020 0.1

D-biotin 0.01

Allantoin 0.5

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI 0.15

D-panthenol 0.1

Ethanol denatures 40 Protein extract from soybean 0.3

Glycerol 0.2

Extract tea 0.2

Apium extract 0.01

Example 2: Hair Tonic

Water, fully desalinated ad 100

D-panthenol 75% 0.2

Allantoin 0.2

Benzophenone-4 0.05

Synth K 0.3

Neutral TE 0.25

Ethanol 96% DEP denatures 40

Octopirox 0.2

Menthol, of course, 0.03

Perfume 0.3

Apium extract 0.01

Example 3: Hair Tonic

D-panthenol 75% 0.2

Allantoin 0.1

Water, fully desalinated ad 100

Rovisome CT 40

Ethanol 96% DEP denatured 35

Cremophor A25 0.2

Caffeine 0.1

Apium extract 0.01

Example 4: Shampoo

FAEOS-Na C12-14 2EO 70% 15,4

Caustic soda 50% standard 0.2

City water U-K ad 100

Citric acid monohydrate standard 0.6

Antil 141 L 0.5

Arlypone F 0.6

Glycine 0.3

C * Pharm 02010 1

Caffeine anhydrous 0.1 alpha-bisabolol, of course 0.1

Magnesium chloride dandruff 0.02

D-panthenol 75% 0.4

Nicotinic acid amide 0.2

Salicylic acid 0.2

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 7.5

Na benzoate 0.5

POLYQUATERNIUM 10 0.3

Perfume 0,7

Cetiol HE 1, 5

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI 455 0.4

Sodium chloride fine-medium 0.1

Apium extract 0.1

Example 5: Care shampoo

FAEOS-Na C12-14 2EO 70% 15,4

Caustic soda 50% standard 0.15

City water U-K ad 100

Citric acid monohydrate standard 0.7

Antil 141 L 0.3

Arlypon F 0.2

Gluadin WQ 0.1

Euperlan PK 3000 AM 5

Pantolactone, dandruff 0.2

Timiron Supersheen MP-1001 0.14

Salicylic acid 0.2

Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 8

Na benzoate 0.5

Gluadin WLM 0.5

Hydrogenated Castor OiI 0.2

Cetiol HE 0.5

Sodium chloride fine medium 0.3

POLYQUATERNIUM 10 0,8 Apium extract 0.1

Example 6: Care rinse

Cutina CP 0.6

Eumulgin B 2 0.4

Cetearyl alcohol 5

Genamine KDMP 4

Propylparaben 0.2

Benzophenone-4 0,4

Structure XL (28-030A) 0.8

City water U-K ad 100

Methylparaben 0.2

Phenoxyethanol, pure 0.4

Wacker-Belsil ADM 8020 VP 2

Ajidew NL 50 0.5

Glycine 0.4

Apium extract 0.2

Example 7: Determination of the ATP Synthesis Rate

ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is the universal storage form for chemical energy in cells. Cleavage of the distal phosphate group produces ADP and Pi (inorganic phosphate). This reaction is highly exergonic, meaning it releases energy. ATP is produced in the cellular, oxidative degradation of fats, carbohydrates and proteins. It serves as an energy supplier for biochemical Syntheses, for transport processes (active transport) and for mechanical work. These processes are endergonic, ie they only take place when energy is supplied. In order to maintain their metabolism optimally, cells are thus dependent on an adequate supply of ATP. For example, dermal papilla cells also require the production of growth factors and thus the control of the hair cycle ATP. The proliferation and differentiation of ORS keratinocytes is also coupled to the ATP synthesis, as the biosynthesis of specific proteins is an essential prerequisite for both processes. If the ATP synthesis rate of the hair-relevant cells can be increased by a product, the cells have more energy available to maintain metabolic processes and cellular structures, and to renew structures, eg during repair processes or the rebuilding of hair.

ATP detection method

The ATP determinations were made using the ATPLite ™ -m assay (Packard). The test principle of this assay is based on the fact that Photinus pyralis luciferase catalyzes a reaction in which D-luciferin is converted to oxyluciferin in the presence of ATP. In this reaction, green light is emitted which can be measured with a luminometer. The emitted bioluminescent light is proportional to the amount of ATP present.

To determine the ATP activity in dermal papilla cells, they are precultivated in a suitable manner while retaining their specific properties (DE10162814) and transferred to a 48-well cell culture dish. The treatment with the substance mixture was carried out for 24 hours against an untreated control. Subsequently, the cells were lysed for 5 min on a shaker with in each case 100 μl / well of a lysis buffer contained in the test kit. The cells were then incubated for a further 5 min with in each case 100 .mu.l / well with the supplied substrate solution on the shaker and then transferred to the reaction mixture in a black microtiter plate. After an incubation time of 10 min in the dark, the luminescence was measured.

The extract of Apium graveolens increased the ATP production of the dermal papilla cells compared to the untreated control by a maximum of 61%. (Table 1 )

Table 1: Influence of the test substances on the ATP production of dermal papilla cells in% (standard deviation)

Mean Untreated 100 Apium extract (0.01%) 161 (23)

Extract of Apium (0.1%) 160 (36)

Example 8: Detection of Differential Expression of Hair-Relevant Genes Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF) and Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF) are important growth factors synthesized by the dermal papilla cells. Specifically, HGF stimulates follicular growth and KGF stimulates keratinocyte proliferation. Accordingly, HGF and KGF are increasingly expressed in the growth phase. These properties are contrasted with the expression of TGF-ß2 and IGFBP-3. These gene products shift the cycle from the growth to the regression phase.

After application of substances that cause effects on the biologically active part of the hair, the determination of changes in the expression of these genes could provide information about hair growth stimulants or inhibitors.

The differential gene expression of the target genes was determined by means of quantitative RT-PCR. After culturing the dermal papilla cells, they were incubated for 6-72 h with apium extract in the concentration of 0.1 and 0.01%. To carry out the PCR, the RNA is first isolated from the dermal papilla cells using the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective hair-relevant genes and which serves to amplify the gene sections sought, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.

To quantify gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). In this case, values which are greater than or equal to twice the expression or less than or equal to the O.δfachen expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed.

Table 2: Influence of Apium extract 0.01% on the expression of hair-relevant genes

Expression in DPC

KGF + 6.35

TGFβ2 - 2.81

IGFBP3 - 4,17

Treatment with Apium extract results in significant induction of KGF gene expression after treatment of dermal papilla cells in vitro. Based on this expression profile can on the Induction of keratinocyte proliferation and thus be inferred to stimulation of hair growth. In addition, genes that inhibit hair growth are repremiert, which in addition to the fact that the hair root activity reactivated and premature hair loss is prevented.

Example 9 Determination of Cell Vitality of Cultured Fibroblasts After Treatment with Apium Extract

The determination of the vitality of cultured cells provides information about the status of the cells. With this analysis, both cell-damaging substance concentrations can be defined, as well as cell-activating drug effects can be determined.

The vitality of cultured cells is determined by redox dyes. These dyes penetrate into the cell and are reduced by electron uptake on the outer mitochondrial membrane. This reduction requires a dye change, which is determined photometrically below. To quantify vitality, the untreated control is set equal to 100% and the readings of the substance-treated samples are referenced thereto. At a relative vitality of less than 80% one speaks of cell-damaging, with greater / equal to 120% of cell-activating substance effects.

Table 3: Relative vigor after treatment of fibroblasts with Apium extract of different concentrations

In a concentration range from 62.5 μg / ml to 500 μg / ml, treatment with Apium extract in the investigated fibroblasts leads to an increase in vitality.

Claims

claims

1. Use of an agent containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium for the treatment of hair.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the active substances are obtained from compressed juices and / or extracts of the plants of the genus Apium.

3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the extracts are aqueous extracts or aqueous-alcoholic extracts or aqueous-organic extracts or mixtures thereof.

4. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that in aqueous-alcoholic extracts of the alcohol is selected from the group consisting of methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol.

5. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that in aqueous-alcoholic extracts, the ratio of alcohol to water between 1: 1 to 1: 2 or 1: 3.

6. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 5 for the vitalization of hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and hair conditioning.

7. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the Apium is selected from the group consisting of Apium graveolens, Apium inundatum, Apium nodiflorum, Apium repens.

8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the Apium graveolens is selected from the group consisting of Apium graveolens var. Scalinum, Apium graveolens var. Dulce, Apium graveolens var. Rapaceum.

9. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the active ingredients are obtained from the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, tubers and / or seeds of the Apiumpflanze.

10. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the proportion of active ingredients from the Apiumpflanze of 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 5% by weight in the total composition.

11. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the agent contains additional components selected from the group consisting of protein hydrolysates, film-forming substances, other hair growth stimulating agents, nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic Polymers, thickeners, perfume oils, dyes, light stabilizers, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, reducing agents.

12. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the agent is a hair treatment agent, in particular shampoo, hair conditioner, hair gel, hair tonic, hair conditioner, hair cream, hair lotion, hair spray and hair tincture.

13. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the active ingredients of the Apiumpflanze are not rinsed after the application, but remain on the hair or on the scalp.

14. Use according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the hair growth is stimulated and the hair roots, especially in places where the hair growth has been discontinued for a long time, is reactivated.

15. Use according to claim 14, characterized in that the reactivation is effected by repression and / or reduction of hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells.

16. A method for revitalizing hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and hair conditioning, characterized in that one has to be used according to one of claims 1 to 12 agent Apply the hair or the hairy skin.

17. The method according to claim 16, characterized in that the active ingredients of the Apiumpflanze are not rinsed after the application, but remain on the hair or on the scalp.

18. The method according to any one of claims 16 or 17, wherein the hair growth and the hair roots are stimulated and reactivated, characterized in that hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells are repressed and / or reduced.