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WO2008041136A2 - Aqueous anti-frizz composition for hair - Google Patents

Aqueous anti-frizz composition for hair Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008041136A2
WO2008041136A2 PCT/IB2007/004196 IB2007004196W WO2008041136A2 WO 2008041136 A2 WO2008041136 A2 WO 2008041136A2 IB 2007004196 W IB2007004196 W IB 2007004196W WO 2008041136 A2 WO2008041136 A2 WO 2008041136A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
chosen
fatty
weight
present
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2007/004196
Other languages
French (fr)
Other versions
WO2008041136A3 (en
Inventor
Nghi Van Nguyen
Sawa Hashimoto
David W. Cannel
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US11/544,495 external-priority patent/US20080085254A1/en
Priority claimed from US11/544,481 external-priority patent/US20080085258A1/en
Priority claimed from US11/544,496 external-priority patent/US20080085255A1/en
Priority claimed from US11/544,484 external-priority patent/US8475778B2/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2008041136A2 publication Critical patent/WO2008041136A2/en
Publication of WO2008041136A3 publication Critical patent/WO2008041136A3/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5424Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge anionic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • Hair fibers depending on whether they are exposed to low or highly humid conditions, have a tendency to lose their shape, curl definition and/or become frizzy. These problems are the result of water loss or absorption from the fibers.
  • hair benefit agents such as cationic polymers are oftentimes incorporated into rinse-off hair products (shampoos, conditioners and the like) in order to seal in moisture within the hair fibers, thereby inhibiting water loss or absorption therefrom.
  • these hair benefit agents are rinsed off after their application onto the hair fibers.
  • the present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair treatment composition, capable of inhibiting water loss or absorption from hair fibers upon exposure to both high and low humidity.
  • a cosmetic composition in particular a hair treatment composition, capable of inhibiting water loss or absorption from hair fibers upon exposure to both high and low humidity.
  • Such composition comprises:
  • At least one water-insoluble material chosen from non- anionic silicones, hydrocarbon oils, plant oils, fatty acids, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, fatty waxes, and mixtures thereof;
  • the present invention is also drawn to a process for inhibiting water loss or absorption from hair fibers upon exposure to both high and low humidity by contacting the hair fibers with the above-disclosed composition.
  • a hair treatment composition in accordance with the present invention due to its ability to carry oils and deliver them to hair, enables the hair to retain water when exposed to low humidity, and inhibit water absorption when exposed to high humidity.
  • the oils serve as a barrier, inhibiting water from escaping from, or entering into, the hair.
  • the cationic polymers are able to adhere more efficiently onto the hair, thereby reducing the likelihood of their being rinsed off of the hair during the shampooing process.
  • Constanting means imparting to at least one keratinous fiber at least one property chosen from combability, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in) .
  • Form from means obtained from chemical reaction of, wherein “chemical reaction,” includes spontaneous chemical reactions and induced chemical reactions.
  • the phrase “formed from” is open ended and does not limit the components of the composition to those listed, e.g., as component (i) and component (ii) .
  • the phrase “formed from” does not limit the order of adding components to the composition or require that the listed components (e.g., components (i) and (ii) ) be added to the composition before any other components.
  • Hydrocarbons include alkanes, alkenes, and alkynes, wherein the alkanes comprise at least one carbon, and the alkenes and alkynes each comprise at least two carbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may be chosen from linear hydrocarbons, branched hydrocarbons, and cyclic hydrocarbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the hydrocarbon chain.
  • Silicone compound includes, for example, silica, silanes, silazanes, siloxanes, and organosiloxanes; and refers to a compound comprising at least one silicon atom; wherein the silicone compound may be chosen from linear silicone compounds, branched silicone compounds, and cyclic silicone compounds; further wherein the silicone compound may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the silicone compound may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the silicone chain, wherein the at least one heteroatom is different from the at least one silicon atom.
  • Substituted means comprising at least one substituent.
  • substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
  • the substituent (s) may be further substituted.
  • Ethylene oxide group refers to a group of formula. -CH 2 CH 2 -O-.
  • Propylene oxide group as defined herein includes groups of formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -O-, groups of formula -(CHa)CHCH 2 -
  • Keratinous substrate as defined herein may be human keratinous fiber, and may be chosen from, for example, hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows, as well as the stratum corneum of the skin and nails.
  • Polymers include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers .
  • compositions of the present invention comprise at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyamine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention comprises at least three amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least four amino groups, such as greater than four amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least five amino groups, such as greater than five amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least six_ amino groups, such as greater than six amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least ten amino groups, such as greater than ten amino groups .
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from aminated polysaccharides comprising at least three amino groups, such as, for example, hydrolysates of aminated polysaccharides comprising greater than three amino groups.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from polymers.
  • Suitable polymers are polymers comprising at least three amino groups as defined herein. Non-limiting examples of suitable polymers include homopolymers comprising at least three amino groups, copolymers comprising at least three amino groups, and terpolymers comprising at least three amino groups.
  • suitable polymers include, for example, polymers comprising at least three amino groups formed from (i) at least one monomer unit comprising at least one amino group as defined herein, and, optionally, (ii) at least one additional monomer unit different from the at least one monomer (i) ; and polymers comprising at least three amino groups formed from (i) at least one monomer comprising at least three amino groups as defined herein, and, optionally, (ii) at least one additional monomer unit different from the at least one monomer (i) .
  • the at least one additional monomer different from the at least one monomer (i) may or may not comprise at least one amino group as defined herein.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from polyamines.
  • polyamine refers to a polymer comprising at least three repeating units, wherein each unit comprises at least one amino group as defined herein.
  • polyamines are chosen from polyethyleneimines .
  • Polyethyleneimines suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may optionally be substituted.
  • Non-limiting examples of polyethyleneimines which may be used in the composition according to the present invention are the LupasolTM products commercially available from BASF.
  • Suitable examples of LupasolTM polyethyleneimines include LupasolTM PS, Lupasol PL, LupasolTM PR8515, LupasolTM G20, LupasolTM G35 as well as LupasolTM SC® Polythyleneimine Reaction Products (such as LupasolTM SC- ⁇ lB®, LupasolTM SC-62J®, and LupasolTM SC-86X®) .
  • Other non-limiting examples of polyethyleneimines which may be used in the composition according to the present invention are the EpominTM products commercially available from Aceto.
  • EpominTM polyethyleneimines include EpominTM SP-006, EpominTM SP-012, EpominTM SP-018, and EpominTM P- 1000.
  • Polyamines suitable for use in the present invention may also be chosen from polyvinylamines .
  • suitable polyvinylamines include Lupamines ® 9095, 9030, 9010, 5095, 1595 sold by BASF.
  • the polyamine compounds can also be substituted.
  • An example of such a compound is PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, sold by example by Cognis.
  • the composition of .the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least three amino groups chosen from proteins and protein derivatives.
  • suitable proteins and protein derivatives for use in the present invention include those listed at pages 1701 to 1703 of the CT. F.A. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 8 th edition, vol.2, (2000) .
  • Suitable protein include in particular wheat protein, soy protein, oat protein, collagen, and keratin protein.
  • the composition of the present invention does not comprise proteins and protein derivatives. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention does not comprise compounds comprising lysine, compounds comprising arginine, and compounds comprising histidine. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least three amino groups, chosen from compounds comprising lysine, compounds, comprising arginine, compounds comprising histidine, and compounds comprising hydroxylysine.
  • the fatty monoamine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention are monoamine compounds which contain at least one hydrocarbon group having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty monoamines are useful. Particularly preferred are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachnidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylaitiine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylamino
  • dimethylstearamine dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N- tallowpropane diamine, hydroxylated, ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty amines such as ethoxylated stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine.
  • Further fatty monoamine compounds useful in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055.
  • the fatty quaternary amine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention are quaternary amine compounds containing at least one long chain alkyl group.
  • Such long chain alkyl group preferably has from 6 to 22 carbon atoms .
  • the anion of the quaternary ammonium compound can be a common ion such as chloride, ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate, bromide, lactate, nitrate, phosphate, or tosylate and mixtures thereof.
  • the long chain alkyl groups can include additional or replaced carbon or hydrogen atoms or ether linkages .
  • Other substitutions on the quaternary nitrogen can be hydrogen, benzyl or short chain alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or combinations thereof.
  • fatty quaternary ammonium compounds include but are not limited to: behentrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, cethethyldimonium bromide, dibehenyldimonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow benzylmonium chloride, disoyadimonium chloride, ditallowdimonium chloride, hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl tallowdimonium chloride, myristalkonium chloride, PEG-2 oleamonium chloride, PEG-5 stearmonium chloride, PEG-15 cocoyl quaternium 4, PEG-2 stearalkonium .4, lauryltrimonium chloride; quaternium-l ⁇ ; quaternium-18, lauralkonium chloride,
  • the phospholipids useful in the compositions of the present invention include in particular lecithins.
  • Lecithins are mixtures of phospholipids, i.e., diglycerides of fatty acids linked to an ester of phosphoric acid.
  • lecithins are diglycerides of stearic, palmitic, and oleic acids linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid.
  • Lecithin is usually defined either as pure phosphatidyl cholines or as crude mixtures of phospholipids which include phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl serine, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl inositol, other phospholipids, and a variety of other compounds such as fatty acids, triglycerides, sterols, carbohydrates, and glycolipids.
  • the lecithin used in the present invention may be present in the form of a liquid, a powder, or granules.
  • Lecithins useful in the invention include, but are not limited to, soy lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin.
  • ALCOLEC S which is a fluid soy lecithin
  • ALCOLEC F 100 which is a powder soy lecithin
  • ALCOLEC Z3 which is a hydroxylated lecithin, all of which are available from the American Lecithin Company.
  • additional examples of phospholipids which may be useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, multifunctional biomimetic phospholipids.
  • the at least one nitrogen-containing compound is preferably present in a total amount of from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention also comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are those having a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of from 8 to 20.
  • HLB Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance
  • Nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are those disclosed for example in McCutcheon 1 s "Detergents and Emulsifiers, " North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; and McCutcheon' s "Functional Materials," North American Edition (1992); both of which are incorporated by reference herein.
  • nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: fatty alcohols, alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, wherein the fatty alkyl chain is in the Cs to C 50 range, preferably in the C12 to C 50 range, preferably in the Ci6 to C 40 range, more preferably in the C 24 to C 40 range, and having from 1 to 110 alkoxy groups.
  • the alkoxy groups are selected from the group consisting of C 2 to C 6 alkyl oxides and their mixtures, with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being the preferred alkoxides.
  • the alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated.
  • the alkoxylated non-ionic surfactants the alkoxylated fatty alcohols are preferred, and the ethoxylated fatty alcohols and propoxylated alcohols are more preferred.
  • the alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be used alone or in mixtures thereof.
  • the alkoxylated fatty alcohols may also be used in mixtures with those alkoxylated materials disclosed herein-above.
  • ethoxylated fatty alcohols include laureth-3 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 3) , laureth-23 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 23) , ceteth-10 (a cetyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) , steareth-10 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) , and steareth-2 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 2) , steareth-100 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 100) , beheneth-5 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 5) , beheneth-10 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate
  • Brij® nonionic surfactants sold by Uniqema, Wilmington, DE.
  • Brij® surfactants are the condensation products of aliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about 54 moles of ethylene oxide, the alkyl chain of the alcohol being typically a linear chain and having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example, Brij 72 (i.e., Steareth-2) and Brij 76 (i.e., Steareth-10).
  • alkyl (poly) glycosides which are the condensation products of long chain alcohols, preferably alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with sugar or starch polymers.
  • S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, and R is a Cs to C 30 alkyl group.
  • R alkyl group examples include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like.
  • Preferred examples of these surfactants are alkyl (poly) glucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a Cs to C 2 o alkyl group, and n is an integer of from 1 to 9.
  • surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG® 325 CS) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG® 600CS and 625 CS) , all the above-identified polyglucosides are available from Cognis, Ambler, Pa. Also useful herein are sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate.
  • glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids including but not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, and polyglyceryl esters of C 16 -C2 2 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • glyceryl monoesters preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, uns
  • sorbitan esters of fatty acids are also useful herein as nonionic surfactants.
  • sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (sold for example under the name SPAN® 80 by the company Sigma Aldrich) , sorbitan sesquioleate (sold for example under the name Arlacel® 83 by the company Uniqema, Wilmington DE) , sorbitan monoisostearate (sold for example under the name CRILL® 6 by the company Croda, Inc., Edison, N.J.) / sorbitan stearates
  • Sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate are particularly preferred nonionic surfactants for use in the present invention.
  • alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds are alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: glyceryl esters of fatty acids, sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and alkyl (poly) glycosides, wherein the alkoxy groups is selected from the group consisting of C 2 -C 6 alkyl oxides and their mixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of these materials being preferred.
  • Nonlimiting examples of commercially available ethoxylated sorbitan esters include the products sold under the name TWEEN® by the company ⁇ niqema and which are ethoxylated sorbitan mono-, di- and/or tri-esters of C 12 to Ci8 fatty acids with an average degree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 20.
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are those formed from a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, or a glyceride having a C 4 to C 36 carbon chain, preferably a C 12 to Ci ⁇ carbon chain, more preferably a Ci 6 to Ci ⁇ carbon chain, derivatized to yield an HLB of at least 8.
  • HLB is understood to mean the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant.
  • Such derivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates, propoxylates, polyglucosides, polyglycerins, polylactates, polyglycolates, polysorbates, and others r M_.ft ⁇ t u w ' oul'd be apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art.
  • Such derivatives may also be mixed polymers of the above, such as ethoxylate/propoxylate species, where the total HLB is preferably greater than or equal to 8.
  • the nonionic surfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of from 10- 25, more preferably from 10-20 moles.
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant is preferably present in the composition of the invention in an amount of from greater than 0 to 70% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention also comprises at least one anionic silicone.
  • Non-limiting examples of anionic silicones which may be used in the present invention include silicone carboxylates, silicone phosphates, silicone sulfates, silicone sulfosuccinates, and silicone sulfonates.
  • Suitable silicone carboxylates may be chosen from water soluble silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid group, oil soluble silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid group, water- dispersible silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid group, and silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid group which are soluble in organic solvents.
  • the at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic acid group further comprises at least one alkoxylated chain, wherein the at least one alkoxy group may be chosen from terminal alkoxy groups, pendant alkoxy groups, and alkoxy groups which are intercalated in the skeleton of the at least one silicone compound.
  • Non-limiting examples of at least one alkoxy group include ethylene oxide groups and propylene oxide groups.
  • the at least one carboxylic acid group may be chosen from terminal carboxylic acid groups and pendant carboxylic acid groups. Further, the at least one carboxylic acid may be chosen from carboxylic acid groups in free acid form, i.e., - COOH, and carboxylic acid groups in salt form, i.e., -COOM, wherein M may be chosen from inorganic cations, such as, for example, potassium cations and sodium cations, and organic cations.
  • the at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic acid group is chosen from silicone compounds of formula (I) and salts thereof:
  • c, d, and e which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20; EO is an ethylene oxide group; PO is a propylene oxide group; and R" is chosen from optionally substituted divalent hydrocarbons, such as alkylene groups and alkenylene groups comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally substituted divalent aromatic groups, such as groups of formula (III):
  • Non-limiting examples of the at least one silicone compound include those commercially available from Noveon under the name Ultrasil ® CA-I Silicone and Ultrasil ® CA-2 Silicone, both of which correspond to formula (V) below.
  • This silicone carboxylate is sold in the free acid form as an emulsifier and dispersing aid for complexing fatty cationic amines and quaternary amines .
  • the at least one silicone compound is chosen from silicone compounds of formula
  • c, d, and e which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20; EO is an ethylene oxide group; and PO is a propylene oxide group; x is an integer ranging from 0 to 60; R" is chosen from optionally substituted divalent hydrocarbons, such as alkylene groups and alkenylene groups comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally substituted divalent aromatic groups, such as groups of formula (III) :
  • Non-limiting examples of the at least one silicone compound include those described in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,248,783 and 5,739,371, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference, and which are silicone compounds of formula (I) .
  • Suitable silicone phosphates may be chosen from water-soluble silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group, oil soluble silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group, water-dispersible silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group, and silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group which are soluble in organic solvents.
  • the at least one silicone compound comprising at least one phosphate group further comprises at least one alkoxylated chain, wherein the at least one alkoxy group may be chosen from terminal alkoxy groups, pendant alkoxy groups, and alkoxy groups which are intercalated in the skeleton of the at least one silicone compound.
  • the at least one phosphate group may be chosen from terminal phosphate groups and pendant phosphate groups.
  • the at least one phosphate group may be chosen from groups of formula -O-P(O) (OH) 2 , groups of formula -0- P(O) (OH) (OR), and groups of formula -O-P(O) (OR) 2 , wherein R may be chosen from H, inorganic cations, and organic cations.
  • inorganic cations include alkali metals, such as, for example, potassium lithium, and sodium.
  • a non-limiting example of organic cations is at least one additional silicone compound which may be identical to or different from the at least one silicone compound bonded to the other oxygen of the phosphate group.
  • the at least one silicone compound comprising at least one phosphate group is chosen from silicone compounds of formula (I) :
  • R 1 which may be identical or different, are each chosen from H, organic cations, inorganic cations, optionally substituted hydrocarbons (such as alkyl groups and alkenyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms) , optionally substituted aromatic groups; groups of formula (II) and salts thereof:
  • c, and d which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20; e is an integer ranging from 0 to 19; and x is an integer ranging from 0 to 21; groups of formula (III) and salts thereof:
  • c, d, and e which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20; and x is an integer ranging from 0 to 21; and groups of formula (IV) and salts thereof: [0065] wherein: a is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; b is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; R' , which may be identical or different, are each chosen from optionally substituted hydrocarbons, such as alkyl groups and alkenyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted aromatic groups, groups of formula (III) :
  • R which may be identical or different, are each chosen from optionally substituted hydrocarbons, such as alkyl groups and alkenyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted aromatic groups, optionally substituted divalent hydrocarbons, such as alkylene groups and alkenylene groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted divalent aromatic groups, groups of formula (III) :
  • the (CH 2 ) 3 end is bonded to the silicon of the compound of formula (IV) and the (EO) or (PO) end, if present, is bonded to the oxygen of the compound of formula (I);
  • c, d, and e which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20;
  • EO is an ethylene oxide group;
  • PO is a propylene oxide group; and with the proviso that at least one R is chosen from groups of formula (V) and salts thereof; and with the further proviso that at least one R 1 is chosen from groups of formula (IV) and salts thereof and at least one other R 1 is chosen from H, organic cations, and inorganic cations .
  • Non-limiting examples of the inorganic cations include alkali metals, such as potassium, lithium, and sodium.
  • suitable silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group include those commercially available from the company Phoenix Chemical, Inc. of New Jersey under the name of Pecosil®, such as Pecosil® PS- 100, Pecosil® PS-112, Pecosil® PS-150, Pecosil® PS-200, Pecosil® WDS-100, Pecosil® WDS-200, Pecosil® PS-100 B, and Pecosil® PS-100 K, and those commercially available from the company Siltech under the name Silphos A-100 and Silphos A- 150.
  • Other non-limiting examples of suitable silicone compounds include those described in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,070,171, 5,093,452, and 5,149,765 the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.
  • Suitable silicone sulfates for use in the present invention include those represented by formula (VI) :
  • R 11 is selected from lower alkyl having one to eight carbon atoms or phenyl
  • R 12 is - (CH 2 ) 3 -O- (EO) x - (PO) y - (EO) z —SO 3 -M wherein M is a cation and is selected from Na, K, Li, or NH 4 ;
  • x, y and z are integers independently ranging from 0 to 100;
  • R 13 is -(CH 2 ) 3 -0- (EO) x - (PO) y - (EO) 2 -H with x, y and z being integers independently ranging from 0 to 100;
  • R 14 is methyl or hydroxyl;
  • a 1 and c 1 are independently integers ranging from 0 to 50;
  • b 1 is an integer ranging from 1 to 50.
  • An example of corresponding available commercial product is the Ultrasil SA-I silicone sold by the company Noveon.
  • R represents a divalent radical selected from
  • a' and b' are integers ranging independently from 0 to 30; x and y are such that the molecular weight ranges from 700 to 1600, and M is an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or an ammonium group.
  • a particularly preferred anionic silicone is Dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate.
  • Dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate is for example commercially available from the company Noveon under the tradename Ultrasil PE-IOO.
  • the anionic silicone is advantageously present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention also comprises at least one cationic polymer.
  • Preferred cationic polymers useful in the present invention are chosen from, but are not limited to, polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred cationic polymers include polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 6 and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • Corresponding commercially available products include for example: POLYMER JR-125, POLYMER JR-400, Polymer JR-30M hydroxyethyl cellulosic polymers (polyquaternium 10) available from Amerchol; JAGUAR C13-S (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) available from Rhodia; and MERQUAT 100 and 280, a dimethyl dialkyl ammonium chloride (polyquaternium 6) available from Nalco.
  • the cationic polymer is advantageously present the composition of the present invention in an amount of from greater than 0% to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Film forming polymers useful in the composition of the present invention can be neutralized or partially neutralized polymers and resins such as, for example, those containing carboxyl moieties, such as acrylates and other carboxy polymers.
  • suitable water soluble film forming polymers include, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone , polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate, acrylates, polyesters, polyurethranes, polyimides, polysulfonates, guars, starches and the like.
  • water-insoluble polymers and resins have to be neutralized to about 90% of their carboxyl moieties to make them water soluble for the purpose of formulating products in aqueous solution and for the purpose of making products which have good non-build-up properties, i.e., can be easily washed off the hair after use.
  • Unneutralized or partially neutralized water- insoluble latexes can also be used as invention film-forming polymers. Included are the following latexes:
  • Acrylic acid/methacrylic acid/ acrylates/methacrylates copolymers such as the product sold under the name AMERHOLD DR-25 by the company Amerchol,
  • Acrylic acid/methacrylic acid/ acrylates /methacrylates /hydroxy ester acrylates copolymers such as the product sold under the name ACUDYNE 258 by the company Rohm & Haas.
  • the film forming polymer may be employed in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-insoluble ingredients for use in the present invention include: non-anionic silicones such as non- ionic, cationic and amino- silicones ranging from low molecular weight fluids to high molecular weight gums, including for example dimethicone, cyclomethicone, phenyl trimethicone, " dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, aminosilicone and laurylmethicone copolyol; hydrocarbon oils such as mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffins, iso-paraffins, aromatic hydrocarbons, and the like; plant oils such as olive, avocado, coconut, and the like; fatty acids; fatty esters; fatty alcohols; fatty waxes; and mixtures thereof.
  • the water-insoluble material may be employed in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention may contain further water-insoluble materials or ingredients which can be chosen from, but are not limited to, the following: [0085] (1) Lipophilic "ingredients" or “materials” such as oil-soluble vitamins such as Vitamin E and Vitamin A, sunscreens, ceramides.
  • the lipophilic ingredients may be in the form of sunscreens, bacteriostats, moisturizers, colors, topical pharmaceuticals and the like.
  • Preferred lipophilic ingredients include: Vitamin E, Vitamin E Acetate, Vitamin A Palmitate, , 2-oleamido-l, 3-octadecanediol, octylmethoxy cinnamate, octyl salicylate, .
  • the lipophilic ingredients will, for example, moisturize or condition the skin, hair, and/or eyelashes and leave behind no oily feel;
  • compositions of the present invention may further contain additional ingredients.
  • Polar amino acids may be chosen from arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid (or aspartate), glutamine, glutamic acid (or glutamate) , histidine, lysine, serine, and threonine. These amino acids are hydrophilic due to their polar side chains. Lysine and arginine are positively charged at neutral pH, whereas histidine can be uncharged or positively charged depending on its local environment.
  • proteins, polypeptides or other natural extracts having a high polar amino acid content can be used as additional ingredients.
  • proteins having a major proportion of arginine units in the range from about 50 to about 90%, by weight, of the total protein
  • the protamine proteins are characterised by having: (a) a low molecular weight, in the range of about 5,000; (b) a high isoelectric point, in the pH range of about 10 to 12; and (c) a high arginine content, in the range from about 50 to about 90%, by weight of the total protein.
  • Proteins of high polar amino acid content as described above can be subjected to acid or base hydrolysis to yield polypeptides which also have a high polar amino acid content.
  • suitable polypeptides are also described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,997,659, being protamine-derived polypeptides having a molecular weight below about 5,000, a basic pH (10-12) , and an arginine content of about 50%, or greater, by weight of the total polypeptide.
  • proteins not only may naturally occurring proteins be used, but also synthetic proteins, for example, polylysine and polyarginine, or mixtures thereof.
  • An example of a suitable natural extract which is rich in arginine is aloe vera extract.
  • the polar amino acids and the proteins and polypeptides having a polar amino acid content of 50%, or greater are often isolated from natural sources in the form of salts and hydrosalts, which are also suitable for use according to the invention.
  • Such salts and hydrosalts are formed by reaction with mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, and the like, or the organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, chloroacetic acid and the like.
  • mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, and the like
  • organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, chloroacetic acid and the like.
  • a suitable example is arginine hydrochloride.
  • Preferred additional ingredients for use in the present invention are arginine and urea, as well as their respective salts and/or hydrosalts.
  • the amount of the abovementioned additional ingredients which may be employed in the present invention can range from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, preferably from
  • composition of the present invention preferably has a pH ranging from 2-12, preferably from 4 to 10, and more preferably from 5 to 8.
  • the present invention is also directed to a process for treating hair fibers, in particular for inhibiting hair fibers from absorbing and/or losing water in general, and especially when exposed to low or high humidity.
  • the process comprises contacting the hair fibers with the above-described composition.
  • Such contacting step can be followed by a rinsing step, after a leave-in time of between 10 seconds and 15 minutes
  • the present invention also concerns the use of the above-described composition for inhibiting hair fibers from absorbing and/or losing water. More preferably, the present invention concerns the use of the above-described composition as an anti-frizz composition.
  • This comparative example illustrates shampoo formulations containing a polyamine compound having at least three amino groups.
  • Procedure to make formulas I-IV In beaker A, add amount of phase A water and heat to 85 0 C with moderate mixing. Add PEI and Amphomer LV-71, if necessary, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. In beaker B, add Ultrasil PE-100, Procetyl AWS, and Olive oil, with moderate speed mixing. Heat to 85 0 C and mix well until uniform and clear. Next, add contents of beaker A into beaker B. Mix well and maintain at 85 0 C until uniform. If necessary, in beaker C, add amount of phase C water and with high speed mixing, sift in polymer JR-30. Mix well until it gels up. Add beaker C contents into phase A and B mixture above.
  • the TO reading or initial area of the hair, was taken by tracing the perimeter of the photocopied swatch and calculating the area of the hair using an image analysis software. These swatches were placed in the humidity chamber (90-95 %RH) for 4 hours. The T4 reading, was then taken as described above. The % change of the area of the swatches is calculated using the following calculation: (T4 - TO) /TO x 100, and the final results are averaged. The formulas that prevent frizz will be indicated by lower % change in the area,
  • This comparative example illustrates shampoo formulations containing a fatty monoamine.
  • Procedure to make formulas I-IV In beaker A, add amount of phase A water and heat to 85 0 C with moderate mixing. Add AMP and Amphomer LV-71, if necessary, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. In beaker B, add amount of phase B water and heat to 85 0 C with moderate mixing. At 85°C, add Lexamine S-13, Ultrasil PE-100, Procetyl AWS, and Olive oil, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. Next, add contents of beaker A into beaker B. Mix well and maintain at 85°C until uniform. If necessary, in beaker C, add amount of phase C water and with high speed mixing, sift in polymer JR-30.
  • the swatches After equilibrating at RT overnight, the swatches are unwound, then photocopied. TO, or initial area of the hair, was taken by tracing the perimeter of the photocopied swatch and calculating the area of the hair using an image analysis software. These swatches are hung in the humidity chamber (RH 90-95%) for 4 hours. After 4 hours, or at T4, the areas are again taken by photocopying the swatches, then tracing them and calculating the areas. The % change of the area of the swatches is calculated using the following calculation: (T4 - TO) /TO x 100, and the final results are averaged. The formulas that prevent frizz will be indicated by lower % change.
  • This comparative example illustrates shampoo formulations containing a fatty quaternary amine.
  • Procedure to make formulas I-IV In beaker A, add amount of phase A water and heat to 85 0 C with moderate mixing. Add AMP and Amphomer IN-Il 1 if necessary, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. In beaker B, add amount of phase B water and heat to 85 0 C with moderate mixing. At 85°C, add Behentrimonium Chloride, ⁇ ltrasil PE-100, Procetyl AWS, and Olive oil, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. Next, add contents of beaker A into beaker B. Mix well and maintain at 85 0 C until uniform.
  • phase C water and with high speed mixing, sift in polymer JR-30. Mix well until it gels up. Add beaker C contents into phase A and B mixture above. Mix well until uniform. Start cooling batch to RT. Reduce mixer speed to moderate speed and add SLES-2 and Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Gently mix to prevent aeration and cool to RT.
  • This comparative example illustrates shampoo formulations containing a lecithin.
  • Procedure to make formulas I-IV In beaker A, add amount of phase A water and heat to 85 0 C with moderate mixing. Add AMP and Amphomer IN-Il, if necessary, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. In beaker B, add amount of phase B water and heat to 85 0 C with moderate mixing. At 85 0 C, add Lecithin, Ultrasil PE-100, Procetyl AWS, and Olive oil, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. Next, add contents of beaker A into beaker B. Mix well and maintain at 85 0 C until uniform. If necessary, in beaker C, add amount of phase C water and with high speed mixing, sift in polymer JR-30.
  • the swatches After equilibrating at RT overnight, the swatches are unwound, then photocopied. TO, or initial area of the hair, was taken by tracing the perimeter of the photocopied swatch and calculating the area of the hair using an image analysis software. These swatches are hung in the humidity chamber (RH 90-95%) for 4 hours. After 4 hours, or at T4, the areas are again taken by photocopying the swatches, then tracing them and calculating the areas. The % change of the area of the swatches is calculated using the following calculation: (T4 - TO) /TO x 100, and the final results are averaged. The formulas that prevent frizz will be indicated by lower % change.

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Abstract

The present invention is drawn to a composition and process for inhibiting hair from becoming frizzy when exposed to high and/or low humidity, the composition containing: (a) at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one nonionic surfactant; (c) at least one anionic silicone; (d) at least one water-insoluble material chosen from non- anionic silicones, hydrocarbon oils, plant oils, fatty acids, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, fatty waxes, and mixtures thereof; (e) at least one cationic polymer; and (f) optionally, at least one film forming polymer, different from the at least one cationic polymer (e).

Description

AQUEOUS ANTI-FRIZZ COMPOSITION FOR HAIR
[0001] Hair fibers, depending on whether they are exposed to low or highly humid conditions, have a tendency to lose their shape, curl definition and/or become frizzy. These problems are the result of water loss or absorption from the fibers. In an effort to solve such problems, hair benefit agents such as cationic polymers are oftentimes incorporated into rinse-off hair products (shampoos, conditioners and the like) in order to seal in moisture within the hair fibers, thereby inhibiting water loss or absorption therefrom. Unfortunately, these hair benefit agents are rinsed off after their application onto the hair fibers.
[0002] It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a composition and process for inhibiting water loss or absorption from hair fibers upon exposure to high or low humidity.
[0003] The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair treatment composition, capable of inhibiting water loss or absorption from hair fibers upon exposure to both high and low humidity. Such composition comprises:
(a) at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant;
(c) at least one anionic silicone;
(d) at least one water-insoluble material chosen from non- anionic silicones, hydrocarbon oils, plant oils, fatty acids, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, fatty waxes, and mixtures thereof;
(e) at least one cationic polymer; and (f) optionally, at least one film forming polymer, different from the at least one cationic polymer (e) .
[0004] In another embodiment, the present invention is also drawn to a process for inhibiting water loss or absorption from hair fibers upon exposure to both high and low humidity by contacting the hair fibers with the above-disclosed composition.
[0005] It has been surprisingly found that a hair treatment composition in accordance with the present invention, due to its ability to carry oils and deliver them to hair, enables the hair to retain water when exposed to low humidity, and inhibit water absorption when exposed to high humidity. The oils serve as a barrier, inhibiting water from escaping from, or entering into, the hair. Also, because the oils have a tendency to plate out over the surface of the hair, the cationic polymers are able to adhere more efficiently onto the hair, thereby reducing the likelihood of their being rinsed off of the hair during the shampooing process. These two phenomena enable the hair to inhibit frizz and retain curl definition at high humidity, while at the same time impart conditioning benefits onto the hair in order to protect it from becoming dry/static and rough at low humidity. [0006] Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about". [0007] The term "water-insoluble" means those compounds which are either completely or partially insoluble in water. [0008] "Amino groups" as defined herein includes primary amino groups, secondary amino groups, and tertiary amino groups, and further includes amino groups which are terminal, pendant, and intercalated in a skeleton of the at least one polyamine compound, but does not, for example, include quaternary amino groups, amido groups, imino groups, nitrilo groups, or heteroatom analogs of any of the foregoing. [0009] "At least one" as used herein means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations .
[0010] "Conditioning" as used herein means imparting to at least one keratinous fiber at least one property chosen from combability, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in) .
[0011] "Formed from," as used herein, means obtained from chemical reaction of, wherein "chemical reaction," includes spontaneous chemical reactions and induced chemical reactions. As used herein, the phrase "formed from", is open ended and does not limit the components of the composition to those listed, e.g., as component (i) and component (ii) . Furthermore, the phrase "formed from" does not limit the order of adding components to the composition or require that the listed components (e.g., components (i) and (ii) ) be added to the composition before any other components.
[0012] "Hydrocarbons," as used herein, include alkanes, alkenes, and alkynes, wherein the alkanes comprise at least one carbon, and the alkenes and alkynes each comprise at least two carbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may be chosen from linear hydrocarbons, branched hydrocarbons, and cyclic hydrocarbons; further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the hydrocarbons may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the hydrocarbon chain.
[0013] "Silicone compound," as used herein, includes, for example, silica, silanes, silazanes, siloxanes, and organosiloxanes; and refers to a compound comprising at least one silicon atom; wherein the silicone compound may be chosen from linear silicone compounds, branched silicone compounds, and cyclic silicone compounds; further wherein the silicone compound may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the silicone compound may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in the silicone chain, wherein the at least one heteroatom is different from the at least one silicon atom.
[0014] "Substituted," as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
The substituent (s) may be further substituted.
[0015] "Ethylene oxide group" as defined herein refers to a group of formula. -CH2CH2-O-.
[0016] "Propylene oxide group" as defined herein includes groups of formula -CH2CH2CH2-O-, groups of formula -(CHa)CHCH2-
0-, and groups of formula -CH2 (CHs)CH-O-.
[0017] "Keratinous substrate" as defined herein may be human keratinous fiber, and may be chosen from, for example, hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows, as well as the stratum corneum of the skin and nails.
[0018] "Polymers," as defined herein, include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers .
[0019] The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof. [0020] The polyamine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention comprises at least three amino groups. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least four amino groups, such as greater than four amino groups. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least five amino groups, such as greater than five amino groups. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least six_ amino groups, such as greater than six amino groups. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least ten amino groups, such as greater than ten amino groups .
[0021] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from aminated polysaccharides comprising at least three amino groups, such as, for example, hydrolysates of aminated polysaccharides comprising greater than three amino groups. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from polymers. Suitable polymers are polymers comprising at least three amino groups as defined herein. Non-limiting examples of suitable polymers include homopolymers comprising at least three amino groups, copolymers comprising at least three amino groups, and terpolymers comprising at least three amino groups. Thus, suitable polymers include, for example, polymers comprising at least three amino groups formed from (i) at least one monomer unit comprising at least one amino group as defined herein, and, optionally, (ii) at least one additional monomer unit different from the at least one monomer (i) ; and polymers comprising at least three amino groups formed from (i) at least one monomer comprising at least three amino groups as defined herein, and, optionally, (ii) at least one additional monomer unit different from the at least one monomer (i) . According to the present invention, the at least one additional monomer different from the at least one monomer (i) may or may not comprise at least one amino group as defined herein.
[0022] In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound chosen from polyamines. As used herein, the term "polyamine" refers to a polymer comprising at least three repeating units, wherein each unit comprises at least one amino group as defined herein. In one embodiment, polyamines are chosen from polyethyleneimines . Polyethyleneimines suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may optionally be substituted. Non-limiting examples of polyethyleneimines which may be used in the composition according to the present invention are the Lupasol™ products commercially available from BASF. Suitable examples of Lupasol™ polyethyleneimines include Lupasol™ PS, Lupasol PL, Lupasol™ PR8515, Lupasol™ G20, Lupasol™ G35 as well as Lupasol™ SC® Polythyleneimine Reaction Products (such as Lupasol™ SC-βlB®, Lupasol™ SC-62J®, and Lupasol™ SC-86X®) . Other non-limiting examples of polyethyleneimines which may be used in the composition according to the present invention are the Epomin™ products commercially available from Aceto. Suitable examples of Epomin™ polyethyleneimines include Epomin™ SP-006, Epomin™ SP-012, Epomin™ SP-018, and Epomin™ P- 1000.
[0023] Polyamines suitable for use in the present invention may also be chosen from polyvinylamines . Examples of commercially available suitable polyvinylamines include Lupamines ® 9095, 9030, 9010, 5095, 1595 sold by BASF. [0024] The polyamine compounds can also be substituted. An example of such a compound is PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, sold by example by Cognis.
[0025] In another embodiment, the composition of .the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least three amino groups chosen from proteins and protein derivatives. Non-limiting examples of suitable proteins and protein derivatives for use in the present invention include those listed at pages 1701 to 1703 of the CT. F.A. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 8th edition, vol.2, (2000) . Suitable protein include in particular wheat protein, soy protein, oat protein, collagen, and keratin protein.
[0026] In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention does not comprise proteins and protein derivatives. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention does not comprise compounds comprising lysine, compounds comprising arginine, and compounds comprising histidine. In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one polyamine compound comprising at least three amino groups, chosen from compounds comprising lysine, compounds, comprising arginine, compounds comprising histidine, and compounds comprising hydroxylysine.
[0027] The fatty monoamine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention are monoamine compounds which contain at least one hydrocarbon group having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty monoamines are useful. Particularly preferred are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachnidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylaitiine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide . Also useful are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N- tallowpropane diamine, hydroxylated, ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty amines such as ethoxylated stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine. Further fatty monoamine compounds useful in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,275,055.
[0028] The fatty quaternary amine compounds useful in the compositions of the present invention are quaternary amine compounds containing at least one long chain alkyl group. Such long chain alkyl group preferably has from 6 to 22 carbon atoms . The anion of the quaternary ammonium compound can be a common ion such as chloride, ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate, bromide, lactate, nitrate, phosphate, or tosylate and mixtures thereof. The long chain alkyl groups can include additional or replaced carbon or hydrogen atoms or ether linkages . Other substitutions on the quaternary nitrogen can be hydrogen, benzyl or short chain alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or combinations thereof.
[0029] Examples of fatty quaternary ammonium compounds include but are not limited to: behentrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, cethethyldimonium bromide, dibehenyldimonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow benzylmonium chloride, disoyadimonium chloride, ditallowdimonium chloride, hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium chloride, hydroxyethyl tallowdimonium chloride, myristalkonium chloride, PEG-2 oleamonium chloride, PEG-5 stearmonium chloride, PEG-15 cocoyl quaternium 4, PEG-2 stearalkonium .4, lauryltrimonium chloride; quaternium-lβ; quaternium-18, lauralkonium chloride, olealkonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium- 7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaterniurα-47, cetyl trimonium chloride, dilauryldimonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, dicetyldimoniurα chloride, soyatrimonium chloride, stearyl octyl dimoniuπi methosulfate, behentrimonium methosulfate (18- MEA)', stearalkonium chloride, and • mixtures thereof. Other quaternary ammonium compounds are listed in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, First Edition, on pages 41-42, incorporated herein by reference.
[0030] The phospholipids useful in the compositions of the present invention include in particular lecithins. Lecithins are mixtures of phospholipids, i.e., diglycerides of fatty acids linked to an ester of phosphoric acid. Preferably, lecithins are diglycerides of stearic, palmitic, and oleic acids linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid. Lecithin is usually defined either as pure phosphatidyl cholines or as crude mixtures of phospholipids which include phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl serine, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl inositol, other phospholipids, and a variety of other compounds such as fatty acids, triglycerides, sterols, carbohydrates, and glycolipids. [0031] The lecithin used in the present invention may be present in the form of a liquid, a powder, or granules. Lecithins useful in the invention include, but are not limited to, soy lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin. Corresponding commercial products are for example, ALCOLEC S which is a fluid soy lecithin, ALCOLEC F 100 which is a powder soy lecithin, and ALCOLEC Z3 which is a hydroxylated lecithin, all of which are available from the American Lecithin Company. [0032] Other than lecithins, additional examples of phospholipids which may be useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, multifunctional biomimetic phospholipids. For example, the following multifunctional biomimetic phospholipids manufactured by the company Uniqema Industries may be used: PHOSPHOLIPID PTC, PHOSPHOLIPID CDM, PHOSPHOLIPID SV, PHOSPHOLIPID GLA, and PHOSPHOLIPID EFA. [0033] In the compositions of the present invention, the at least one nitrogen-containing compound is preferably present in a total amount of from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0034] The composition of the present invention also comprises at least one nonionic surfactant. Preferred nonionic surfactants are those having a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of from 8 to 20. Nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the present invention are those disclosed for example in McCutcheon1 s "Detergents and Emulsifiers, " North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; and McCutcheon' s "Functional Materials," North American Edition (1992); both of which are incorporated by reference herein.
[0035] Examples of nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: fatty alcohols, alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, wherein the fatty alkyl chain is in the Cs to C50 range, preferably in the C12 to C50 range, preferably in the Ci6 to C40 range, more preferably in the C24 to C40 range, and having from 1 to 110 alkoxy groups. The alkoxy groups are selected from the group consisting of C2 to C6 alkyl oxides and their mixtures, with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being the preferred alkoxides. The alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated. Of these alkoxylated non-ionic surfactants, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols are preferred, and the ethoxylated fatty alcohols and propoxylated alcohols are more preferred. The alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be used alone or in mixtures thereof. The alkoxylated fatty alcohols may also be used in mixtures with those alkoxylated materials disclosed herein-above.
[0036] Other representative examples of • such ethoxylated fatty alcohols include laureth-3 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 3) , laureth-23 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 23) , ceteth-10 (a cetyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) , steareth-10 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10) , and steareth-2 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 2) , steareth-100 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 100) , beheneth-5 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 5) , beheneth-10 (a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an, average degree of ethoxylation of 10) , and other derivatives and mixtures of the preceding. [0037] As examples of commercially available ethoxylated fatty alcohols are the Brij® nonionic surfactants sold by Uniqema, Wilmington, DE. Typically, Brij® surfactants are the condensation products of aliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about 54 moles of ethylene oxide, the alkyl chain of the alcohol being typically a linear chain and having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example, Brij 72 (i.e., Steareth-2) and Brij 76 (i.e., Steareth-10).
[0038] Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are alkyl (poly) glycosides, which are the condensation products of long chain alcohols, preferably alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with sugar or starch polymers. These compounds can be represented by the formula (S)n-O-R wherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, and R is a Cs to C30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which the R alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Preferred examples of these surfactants are alkyl (poly) glucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a Cs to C2o alkyl group, and n is an integer of from 1 to 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG® 325 CS) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG® 600CS and 625 CS) , all the above-identified polyglucosides are available from Cognis, Ambler, Pa. Also useful herein are sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate. [0039] Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention are glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, including but not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, and polyglyceryl esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.
[0040] Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are sorbitan esters of fatty acids. Preferable are sorbitan esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids. Because of the manner in which they are typically manufactured, these sorbitan esters usually comprise mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (sold for example under the name SPAN® 80 by the company Sigma Aldrich) , sorbitan sesquioleate (sold for example under the name Arlacel® 83 by the company Uniqema, Wilmington DE) , sorbitan monoisostearate (sold for example under the name CRILL® 6 by the company Croda, Inc., Edison, N.J.)/ sorbitan stearates
(sold for example under the name SPAN® 60 by the company Sigma Aldrich) , sorbitan trioleate (sold for example under the name SPAN® 85 by the company Sigma Aldrich) , sorbitan tristearate
(sold for example under the name SPAN® 65 by the company Sigma Aldrich) , sorbitan dipalmitates (sold for example under the name SPAN® 40 by the company Sigma Aldrich) , and sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate are particularly preferred nonionic surfactants for use in the present invention.
[0041] Also suitable for use herein as nonionic surfactants are alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: glyceryl esters of fatty acids, sorbitan esters of fatty acids, and alkyl (poly) glycosides, wherein the alkoxy groups is selected from the group consisting of C2-C6 alkyl oxides and their mixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of these materials being preferred. Nonlimiting examples of commercially available ethoxylated sorbitan esters include the products sold under the name TWEEN® by the company ϋniqema and which are ethoxylated sorbitan mono-, di- and/or tri-esters of C12 to Ci8 fatty acids with an average degree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 20.
[0042] Preferred nonionic surfactants are those formed from a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid, or a glyceride having a C4 to C36 carbon chain, preferably a C12 to Ciβ carbon chain, more preferably a Ci6 to Ciβ carbon chain, derivatized to yield an HLB of at least 8. HLB is understood to mean the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. Such derivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates, propoxylates, polyglucosides, polyglycerins, polylactates, polyglycolates, polysorbates, and others rM_.ft§tu w'oul'd be apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art. Such derivatives may also be mixed polymers of the above, such as ethoxylate/propoxylate species, where the total HLB is preferably greater than or equal to 8. Preferably the nonionic surfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of from 10- 25, more preferably from 10-20 moles. tOO43] The at least one nonionic surfactant is preferably present in the composition of the invention in an amount of from greater than 0 to 70% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0044] The composition of the present invention also comprises at least one anionic silicone.
[0045] Non-limiting examples of anionic silicones which may be used in the present invention include silicone carboxylates, silicone phosphates, silicone sulfates, silicone sulfosuccinates, and silicone sulfonates.
[0046] Suitable silicone carboxylates may be chosen from water soluble silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid group, oil soluble silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid group, water- dispersible silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid group, and silicone compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid group which are soluble in organic solvents. In one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic acid group further comprises at least one alkoxylated chain, wherein the at least one alkoxy group may be chosen from terminal alkoxy groups, pendant alkoxy groups, and alkoxy groups which are intercalated in the skeleton of the at least one silicone compound. Non-limiting examples of at least one alkoxy group include ethylene oxide groups and propylene oxide groups. [0047] The at least one carboxylic acid group may be chosen from terminal carboxylic acid groups and pendant carboxylic acid groups. Further, the at least one carboxylic acid may be chosen from carboxylic acid groups in free acid form, i.e., - COOH, and carboxylic acid groups in salt form, i.e., -COOM, wherein M may be chosen from inorganic cations, such as, for example, potassium cations and sodium cations, and organic cations.
[0048] In one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic acid group is chosen from silicone compounds of formula (I) and salts thereof:
Figure imgf000016_0001
[0049] wherein: a is an integer ranging from 1 to 100; b is an integer ranging from 0 to 500; R, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups comprising from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, optionally substituted phenyl groups, and groups of formula (ID :
O O —(CH2)3-O-(EO)c-(PO)d-(EO)e-C-R"-C-OH {iτ)
[0050] wherein: c, d, and e, which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20; EO is an ethylene oxide group; PO is a propylene oxide group; and R" is chosen from optionally substituted divalent hydrocarbons, such as alkylene groups and alkenylene groups comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally substituted divalent aromatic groups, such as groups of formula (III):
Figure imgf000016_0002
(III) ; and groups of formula (IV)
Figure imgf000017_0001
[0051] with the proviso that at least one of the R groups is chosen from groups of formula (II) and with the further optional proviso that when only one of the R groups is chosen from groups of formula (II), the other R groups are not all methyl groups .
[0052] Non-limiting examples of the at least one silicone compound include those commercially available from Noveon under the name Ultrasil ® CA-I Silicone and Ultrasil ® CA-2 Silicone, both of which correspond to formula (V) below. This silicone carboxylate is sold in the free acid form as an emulsifier and dispersing aid for complexing fatty cationic amines and quaternary amines .
[0053] According to one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound is chosen from silicone compounds of formula
(V) and salts thereof:
Figure imgf000017_0002
[0054] wherein: a is an integer ranging from 1 to 100; b is an integer ranging from 0 to 500; AO is chosen from groups of formula (VI) :
-(EO)c-(PO)d-(EO)e- (VI)
[0055] wherein: c, d, and e, which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20; EO is an ethylene oxide group; and PO is a propylene oxide group; x is an integer ranging from 0 to 60; R" is chosen from optionally substituted divalent hydrocarbons, such as alkylene groups and alkenylene groups comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally substituted divalent aromatic groups, such as groups of formula (III) :
Figure imgf000018_0001
and groups of formula (IV) :
Figure imgf000018_0002
[0056] Non-limiting examples of the at least one silicone compound include those described in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,248,783 and 5,739,371, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference, and which are silicone compounds of formula (I) .
[0057] Suitable silicone phosphates may be chosen from water-soluble silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group, oil soluble silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group, water-dispersible silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group, and silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group which are soluble in organic solvents.
[0058] In one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound comprising at least one phosphate group further comprises at least one alkoxylated chain, wherein the at least one alkoxy group may be chosen from terminal alkoxy groups, pendant alkoxy groups, and alkoxy groups which are intercalated in the skeleton of the at least one silicone compound. Non-limiting examples of at least one alkoxy group include ethylene oxide groups (λΕ0" = - CH2-CH2-O-) and propylene oxide groups ("PO" = C3HeO) . [0059] The at least one phosphate group may be chosen from terminal phosphate groups and pendant phosphate groups. Further, the at least one phosphate group may be chosen from groups of formula -O-P(O) (OH) 2, groups of formula -0- P(O) (OH) (OR), and groups of formula -O-P(O) (OR)2, wherein R may be chosen from H, inorganic cations, and organic cations. Non-limiting examples of inorganic cations include alkali metals, such as, for example, potassium lithium, and sodium. A non-limiting example of organic cations is at least one additional silicone compound which may be identical to or different from the at least one silicone compound bonded to the other oxygen of the phosphate group.
[0060] In one embodiment, the at least one silicone compound comprising at least one phosphate group is chosen from silicone compounds of formula (I) :
O
P(OR1)3 (I)
[0061] wherein R1, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from H, organic cations, inorganic cations, optionally substituted hydrocarbons (such as alkyl groups and alkenyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms) , optionally substituted aromatic groups; groups of formula (II) and salts thereof:
CH3(CH2)x-O-(EO)c-(PO)d-(EO)e-CH2CH2- {11)
[0062] wherein: c, and d, which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20; e is an integer ranging from 0 to 19; and x is an integer ranging from 0 to 21; groups of formula (III) and salts thereof:
HO-(EO)c-(PO)d-(EO)e-(CH2)x-
Figure imgf000019_0001
[0063] wherein: c, d, and e, which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20; and x is an integer ranging from 0 to 21; and groups of formula (IV) and salts thereof:
Figure imgf000020_0001
[0065] wherein: a is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; b is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; R' , which may be identical or different, are each chosen from optionally substituted hydrocarbons, such as alkyl groups and alkenyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted aromatic groups, groups of formula (III) :
HO-(EO)c-(PO)d-(EO)e-(CH2)x- as defined above and salts thereof; and R, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from optionally substituted hydrocarbons, such as alkyl groups and alkenyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted aromatic groups, optionally substituted divalent hydrocarbons, such as alkylene groups and alkenylene groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted divalent aromatic groups, groups of formula (III) :
HO-(EO)c-(PO)d-(EO)e-(CH2)x- as defined above and salts thereof, and groups of formula (V) :
-(EO)c-(PO)d-(EO)e-(CH2)3- (v)
[0066] wherein:
[0067] the (CH2) 3 end is bonded to the silicon of the compound of formula (IV) and the (EO) or (PO) end, if present, is bonded to the oxygen of the compound of formula (I); c, d, and e, which may be identical or different, are each integers ranging from 0 to 20; EO is an ethylene oxide group; and PO is a propylene oxide group; and with the proviso that at least one R is chosen from groups of formula (V) and salts thereof; and with the further proviso that at least one R1 is chosen from groups of formula (IV) and salts thereof and at least one other R1 is chosen from H, organic cations, and inorganic cations .
[0068] Non-limiting examples of the inorganic cations include alkali metals, such as potassium, lithium, and sodium. Non-limiting examples of suitable silicone compounds comprising at least one phosphate group include those commercially available from the company Phoenix Chemical, Inc. of New Jersey under the name of Pecosil®, such as Pecosil® PS- 100, Pecosil® PS-112, Pecosil® PS-150, Pecosil® PS-200, Pecosil® WDS-100, Pecosil® WDS-200, Pecosil® PS-100 B, and Pecosil® PS-100 K, and those commercially available from the company Siltech under the name Silphos A-100 and Silphos A- 150. Other non-limiting examples of suitable silicone compounds include those described in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,070,171, 5,093,452, and 5,149,765 the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0069] Suitable silicone sulfates for use in the present invention include those represented by formula (VI) :
Figure imgf000021_0001
[0070] wherein R11 is selected from lower alkyl having one to eight carbon atoms or phenyl, R12 is - (CH2) 3-O- (EO)x- (PO) y- (EO) z—SO3-M wherein M is a cation and is selected from Na, K, Li, or NH4; x, y and z are integers independently ranging from 0 to 100; R13 is -(CH2) 3-0- (EO)x- (PO) y- (EO)2-H with x, y and z being integers independently ranging from 0 to 100; R14 is methyl or hydroxyl; a1 and c1 are independently integers ranging from 0 to 50; b1 is an integer ranging from 1 to 50. An example of corresponding available commercial product is the Ultrasil SA-I silicone sold by the company Noveon. [0071] Suitable silicone sulfosuccinates which may be employed include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula VII:
Figure imgf000022_0001
[0072] wherein R represents a divalent radical selected from
υOπLJo o.*"*nLJ.
Figure imgf000022_0002
and
Figure imgf000022_0003
[0073] wherein a' and b' are integers ranging independently from 0 to 30; x and y are such that the molecular weight ranges from 700 to 1600, and M is an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or an ammonium group.
[0074] A particularly preferred anionic silicone is Dimethicone PEG-8 phosphate. Such a compound is for example commercially available from the company Noveon under the tradename Ultrasil PE-IOO.
[0075] The anionic silicone is advantageously present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0076] The composition of the present invention also comprises at least one cationic polymer. Preferred cationic polymers useful in the present invention are chosen from, but are not limited to, polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. Preferred cationic polymers include polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 6 and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Corresponding commercially available products include for example: POLYMER JR-125, POLYMER JR-400, Polymer JR-30M hydroxyethyl cellulosic polymers (polyquaternium 10) available from Amerchol; JAGUAR C13-S (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) available from Rhodia; and MERQUAT 100 and 280, a dimethyl dialkyl ammonium chloride (polyquaternium 6) available from Nalco. [0077] The cationic polymer is advantageously present the composition of the present invention in an amount of from greater than 0% to 15%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0078] Film forming polymers useful in the composition of the present invention can be neutralized or partially neutralized polymers and resins such as, for example, those containing carboxyl moieties, such as acrylates and other carboxy polymers. Examples of suitable water soluble film forming polymers include, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone , polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate, acrylates, polyesters, polyurethranes, polyimides, polysulfonates, guars, starches and the like. Typically, water-insoluble polymers and resins have to be neutralized to about 90% of their carboxyl moieties to make them water soluble for the purpose of formulating products in aqueous solution and for the purpose of making products which have good non-build-up properties, i.e., can be easily washed off the hair after use.
[0079] The following are examples of film forming polymers that may be used in the compositions of the present invention. The list is not intended to be limiting:
- octylacrylamide/acrylates/ butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the product sold under the name AMPHOMER LV-71 by the company National Starch,
- PVM/MA half ethyl ester copolymer, such as the product sold under the name OMNIREZ-2000 by the company ISP,
- Vinyl acetate/crotonates/vinyl neodecanoate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name RESYN 28-2930 by the company National Starch,
- t-butyl acrylate/ethyl acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymers, such as the product sold under the name LUVIMER IOOP by the company BASF,
- Acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/t-butyl acrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF,
- Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name SALCARE SC60 by the company Ciba,
- Acrylates copolymers such as the product sold under the name BALANCE CR by the company National Starch,
- Acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name AMPHOMER 28-4961 by the company National Starch,
- Acrylates/octylacrylamide/diphenyl amodimethicone copolymers such as the product sold under the name TORAY SETSIL 301 by the company Dow Corning,
- Acrylates/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate copolymers such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z-632N by the company Clariant, - Acrylates/t-butylacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name ULTRAHOL 8 by the company BASF,
- Allyl stearate/ VA copolymers, such as the product sold under the name MEXOMERE PQ by the company Chimex,
- AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymers such as the product sold under the name FIXATE G-IOO by the company Noveon,
- Butyl ester of PVM/MA copolymers such as the product sold under the name GANTREZ A-425 by the company ISP,
- Butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone such as the product sold under the name GANEX P-904 by the company ISP,
-Corn starch modified, such as the product sold under the name AMAZE by the company National Starch,
- Diethylene glycolamine/epichlorohydrin/piperazine copolymers, such as the product sold under the name MEXOMERE PL by the company Chimex,
- Diglycol/CHDM/isophthalate/SIP copolymers, such as the product sold under the name EASTMAN AQ POLYMER by the company Eastman,
- Guar hydroxylpropyl trimonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name JAGUAR C 13S by the company Rhodia,
- Isobutylene/ethylmaleimide/hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer, such as the product sold under the name AQUAFLEX FX-64 by the company ISP,
- Polyethyleglycol/polypropyleneglycol-25/25 dimethicone/acrylates copolymers, such as the product sold under the name LUVIFLEX SILK by the company BASF,
- Polyimide-1, such as the product sold under the name AQUAFLEX XL-30 by the company BASF,
- Polyurethrane-1, such as the product sold under the name LUVISET P. U. R by the company BASF,
- Polyvinylcaprolactam, such as the product sold under the name LUVISKOL PLUS by the company BASF,
- Polyvinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam/DMAPA acrylates copolymers, such as the product sold under the name AQUAFLEX SF-40 by the company ISP,
- VA/Butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name ADVANTAGE PLUS by the company ISP,
- VA/vinyl butyl benzoate/crotonates copolymers, such as the product sold under the name MEXOMERE PW by the company Chimex,
- Vinyl caprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC-713 by the company ISP,
- Vinylpyrrolidone /dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name COPOLYMER 845 by the company ISP,
- Vinylpyrrolidone /hexadecene copolymers, such as the product sold under the name GANEX V-516 by the company ISP,
- VP/VA copolymers, such as the product sold under the name LUVISKOL VA 64 by the company BASF.
[0080] Unneutralized or partially neutralized water- insoluble latexes can also be used as invention film-forming polymers. Included are the following latexes:
- Acrylic acid/methacrylic acid/ acrylates/methacrylates copolymers, such as the product sold under the name AMERHOLD DR-25 by the company Amerchol,
- Ethyl acrylate/t-butyl acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymers, such as the product sold under the name LUVIMER 36D by the company BASF, and
- Acrylic acid/methacrylic acid/ acrylates /methacrylates /hydroxy ester acrylates copolymers, such as the product sold under the name ACUDYNE 258 by the company Rohm & Haas.
[0081] The film forming polymer may be employed in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. [0082] The water-insoluble ingredients for use in the present invention include: non-anionic silicones such as non- ionic, cationic and amino- silicones ranging from low molecular weight fluids to high molecular weight gums, including for example dimethicone, cyclomethicone, phenyl trimethicone, " dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, aminosilicone and laurylmethicone copolyol; hydrocarbon oils such as mineral oil, petrolatum, paraffins, iso-paraffins, aromatic hydrocarbons, and the like; plant oils such as olive, avocado, coconut, and the like; fatty acids; fatty esters; fatty alcohols; fatty waxes; and mixtures thereof. [0083] The water-insoluble material may be employed in an amount ranging from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from greater than 0 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0084] The compositions of the present invention may contain further water-insoluble materials or ingredients which can be chosen from, but are not limited to, the following: [0085] (1) Lipophilic "ingredients" or "materials" such as oil-soluble vitamins such as Vitamin E and Vitamin A, sunscreens, ceramides. The lipophilic ingredients may be in the form of sunscreens, bacteriostats, moisturizers, colors, topical pharmaceuticals and the like. Preferred lipophilic ingredients include: Vitamin E, Vitamin E Acetate, Vitamin A Palmitate, , 2-oleamido-l, 3-octadecanediol, octylmethoxy cinnamate, octyl salicylate, . The lipophilic ingredients will, for example, moisturize or condition the skin, hair, and/or eyelashes and leave behind no oily feel;
[0086] (2) Water-insoluble polymers, resins, and latexes, wherein the polymers and resins include but are not limited to those containing carboxyl moieties, such as acrylates and other carboxy polymers. [0087] The compositions of the present invention may further contain additional ingredients.
[0088] As additional ingredients, it is advantageous to use small molecules, which have the ability to both penetrate keratin fibers and help prevent and/or slow down water loss therefrom.
[0089] Examples of such additional ingredients include, but are not limited to, polar amino acids and their salts/derivatives, urea and its salts/derivatives, guanidine and its salts/derivatives, and combinations thereof. [0090] Polar amino acids may be chosen from arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid (or aspartate), glutamine, glutamic acid (or glutamate) , histidine, lysine, serine, and threonine. These amino acids are hydrophilic due to their polar side chains. Lysine and arginine are positively charged at neutral pH, whereas histidine can be uncharged or positively charged depending on its local environment.
[0091] Alternatively, proteins, polypeptides or other natural extracts having a high polar amino acid content can be used as additional ingredients. For example, mention can be made of proteins having a major proportion of arginine units (in the range from about 50 to about 90%, by weight, of the total protein) in their structures, and which are members of that class of proteins known as protamines. The protamine proteins are characterised by having: (a) a low molecular weight, in the range of about 5,000; (b) a high isoelectric point, in the pH range of about 10 to 12; and (c) a high arginine content, in the range from about 50 to about 90%, by weight of the total protein.
[0092] Proteins of high polar amino acid content as described above can be subjected to acid or base hydrolysis to yield polypeptides which also have a high polar amino acid content. Examples of suitable polypeptides are also described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,997,659, being protamine-derived polypeptides having a molecular weight below about 5,000, a basic pH (10-12) , and an arginine content of about 50%, or greater, by weight of the total polypeptide.
[0093] Not only may naturally occurring proteins be used, but also synthetic proteins, for example, polylysine and polyarginine, or mixtures thereof.
[0094] An example of a suitable natural extract which is rich in arginine is aloe vera extract.
[0095] The polar amino acids and the proteins and polypeptides having a polar amino acid content of 50%, or greater, are often isolated from natural sources in the form of salts and hydrosalts, which are also suitable for use according to the invention. Such salts and hydrosalts are formed by reaction with mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, carbonic acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, and the like, or the organic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, lauric acid, chloroacetic acid and the like. A suitable example is arginine hydrochloride.
[0096] Preferred additional ingredients for use in the present invention are arginine and urea, as well as their respective salts and/or hydrosalts.
[0097] The amount of the abovementioned additional ingredients which may be employed in the present invention can range from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, preferably from
.01 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on total weight of the composition.
[0098] The composition of the present invention preferably has a pH ranging from 2-12, preferably from 4 to 10, and more preferably from 5 to 8.
[0099] The present invention is also directed to a process for treating hair fibers, in particular for inhibiting hair fibers from absorbing and/or losing water in general, and especially when exposed to low or high humidity. The process comprises contacting the hair fibers with the above-described composition. Such contacting step can be followed by a rinsing step, after a leave-in time of between 10 seconds and 15 minutes
[00100] The present invention also concerns the use of the above-described composition for inhibiting hair fibers from absorbing and/or losing water. More preferably, the present invention concerns the use of the above-described composition as an anti-frizz composition.
[00101] The present invention will be better understood by the examples which follow, all of which are intended for illustrative purposes only, and are not meant to unduly limit the scope of the invention in any way.
In all examples hereunder, all quantities are expressed as percentages by weight except if otherwise expressly specified.
EXAMPLE 1
[00102] This comparative example illustrates shampoo formulations containing a polyamine compound having at least three amino groups.
The following formulas I-IV were made:
Figure imgf000030_0001
All of the formulas I-IV above are clear formulas.
[00103] Procedure to make formulas I-IV: In beaker A, add amount of phase A water and heat to 850C with moderate mixing. Add PEI and Amphomer LV-71, if necessary, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. In beaker B, add Ultrasil PE-100, Procetyl AWS, and Olive oil, with moderate speed mixing. Heat to 850C and mix well until uniform and clear. Next, add contents of beaker A into beaker B. Mix well and maintain at 850C until uniform. If necessary, in beaker C, add amount of phase C water and with high speed mixing, sift in polymer JR-30. Mix well until it gels up. Add beaker C contents into phase A and B mixture above. Mix well until uniform. Start cooling batch to RT. Reduce mixer speed to moderate speed and add SLES-2 and Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Gently mix to prevent aeration and cool to RT. [00104] The above formulas I-IV were used to assess anti- frizz properties using the anti-frizz test method as described as follows: for each formula, four hair swatches of 0.3g and 18cm long each were shampooed with 0.5g of product for 15 seconds, then rinsed out after 1 minute for 10 seconds. These swatches were wound onto the pegboards to create two dimensional wave patterns, and placed in 500C oven for 1 hour. After equilibrating at RT overnight, the swatches are unwound, then photocopied. The TO reading, or initial area of the hair, was taken by tracing the perimeter of the photocopied swatch and calculating the area of the hair using an image analysis software. These swatches were placed in the humidity chamber (90-95 %RH) for 4 hours. The T4 reading, was then taken as described above. The % change of the area of the swatches is calculated using the following calculation: (T4 - TO) /TO x 100, and the final results are averaged. The formulas that prevent frizz will be indicated by lower % change in the area,
The results are as shown below:
Figure imgf000032_0001
[00105] The above results show that hair treated with formulas I and III of the present invention, showed significant prevention of frizz and better curl definition compared to hair treated with comparative formulas II, and IV, with formula I being the more efficient.
EXAMPLE II
[0010] This comparative example illustrates shampoo formulations containing a fatty monoamine.
The following formulas I-IV were made:
Figure imgf000032_0002
All of the formulas I-IV above are clear formulas.
[0011] Procedure to make formulas I-IV: In beaker A, add amount of phase A water and heat to 850C with moderate mixing. Add AMP and Amphomer LV-71, if necessary, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. In beaker B, add amount of phase B water and heat to 850C with moderate mixing. At 85°C, add Lexamine S-13, Ultrasil PE-100, Procetyl AWS, and Olive oil, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. Next, add contents of beaker A into beaker B. Mix well and maintain at 85°C until uniform. If necessary, in beaker C, add amount of phase C water and with high speed mixing, sift in polymer JR-30. Mix well until it gels up. Add beaker C contents into phase A and B mixture above. Mix well until uniform. Start cooling batch to RT. Reduce mixer speed to moderate speed and add SLES-2 and Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Gently mix to prevent aeration and cool to RT. [0012] The above formulas I-IV were used to assess anti- frizz properties using the anti-frizz test method as described as follows: for each formula, four hair swatches of 0.3g and 18cm long each were shampooed with 0.5g of product for 15 seconds, then rinsed out after 1 minute for 10 seconds. These swatches were wound onto the pegboards to create two dimensional wave patterns, and placed in 500C oven ' for 1 hour. After equilibrating at RT overnight, the swatches are unwound, then photocopied. TO, or initial area of the hair, was taken by tracing the perimeter of the photocopied swatch and calculating the area of the hair using an image analysis software. These swatches are hung in the humidity chamber (RH 90-95%) for 4 hours. After 4 hours, or at T4, the areas are again taken by photocopying the swatches, then tracing them and calculating the areas. The % change of the area of the swatches is calculated using the following calculation: (T4 - TO) /TO x 100, and the final results are averaged. The formulas that prevent frizz will be indicated by lower % change.
The results are as shown below:
Figure imgf000034_0001
[00106] The above results show that hair treated with formulas I and III of the present invention, showed significant prevention of frizz and better curl definition compared to hair treated with comparative formulas II, and IV, with formula I being the more efficient.
EXAMPLE III
[00107] This comparative example illustrates shampoo formulations containing a fatty quaternary amine.
[00108] The following formulas I-IV were made:
Figure imgf000034_0002
All of the formulas I-IV above are clear formulas.
[00109] Procedure to make formulas I-IV: In beaker A, add amount of phase A water and heat to 850C with moderate mixing. Add AMP and Amphomer IN-Il1 if necessary, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. In beaker B, add amount of phase B water and heat to 850C with moderate mixing. At 85°C, add Behentrimonium Chloride, ϋltrasil PE-100, Procetyl AWS, and Olive oil, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. Next, add contents of beaker A into beaker B. Mix well and maintain at 850C until uniform. If necessary, in beaker C, add amount of phase C water and with high speed mixing, sift in polymer JR-30. Mix well until it gels up. Add beaker C contents into phase A and B mixture above. Mix well until uniform. Start cooling batch to RT. Reduce mixer speed to moderate speed and add SLES-2 and Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Gently mix to prevent aeration and cool to RT.
[00110] The above formulas I-IV were used to assess anti- frizz properties using the anti-frizz test method as described as follows: for each formula, four hair swatches of 0.3g and 18cm long each were shampooed with 0.5g of product for 15 seconds, then rinsed out after 1 minute for 10 seconds. These swatches were wound onto the pegboards to create two dimensional wave patterns, and placed in 500C oven for 1 hour. After equilibrating at RT overnight, the swatches are unwound, then photocopied. TO, or initial area of the hair, was taken by tracing the perimeter of the photocopied swatch and calculating the area of the hair using an image analysis software. These swatches are hung in the humidity chamber (RH 90-95%) for 4 hours. After 4 hours, or at T4, the areas are again taken by photocopying the swatches, then tracing them and calculating the areas. The % change of the area of the swatches is calculated using the following calculation: (T4 - TO) /TO x 100, and the final results are averaged. The formulas that prevent frizz will be indicated by lower % change.
The results are as shown below:
Figure imgf000036_0001
[00111] The above results show that hair treated with formulas I and III of the present invention, showed significant prevention of frizz and better curl definition compared to hair treated with comparative formulas II, and IV, with formula I being the more efficient.
EXAMPLE IV
[0010] This comparative example illustrates shampoo formulations containing a lecithin.
[0011] The following formulas I-IV were made:
Figure imgf000037_0001
All of the formulas I-IV above are clear formulas.
[0012] Procedure to make formulas I-IV: In beaker A, add amount of phase A water and heat to 850C with moderate mixing. Add AMP and Amphomer IN-Il, if necessary, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. In beaker B, add amount of phase B water and heat to 850C with moderate mixing. At 850C, add Lecithin, Ultrasil PE-100, Procetyl AWS, and Olive oil, with high speed mixing. Mix well until uniform and clear. Next, add contents of beaker A into beaker B. Mix well and maintain at 850C until uniform. If necessary, in beaker C, add amount of phase C water and with high speed mixing, sift in polymer JR-30. Mix well until it gels up. Add beaker C contents into phase A and B mixture above. Mix well until uniform. Start cooling batch to RT. Reduce mixer speed to moderate speed and add SLES-2 and Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Gently mix to prevent aeration and cool to RT. [0013] The above formulas I-IV were used to assess anti- frizz properties using the anti-frizz test method as described as follows: for each formula, four hair swatches of 0.3g and 18cm long each were shampooed with 0.5g of product for 15 seconds, then rinsed out after 1 minute for 10 seconds. These swatches were wound onto the pegboards to create two dimensional wave patterns, and placed in 500C oven for 1 hour. After equilibrating at RT overnight, the swatches are unwound, then photocopied. TO, or initial area of the hair, was taken by tracing the perimeter of the photocopied swatch and calculating the area of the hair using an image analysis software. These swatches are hung in the humidity chamber (RH 90-95%) for 4 hours. After 4 hours, or at T4, the areas are again taken by photocopying the swatches, then tracing them and calculating the areas. The % change of the area of the swatches is calculated using the following calculation: (T4 - TO) /TO x 100, and the final results are averaged. The formulas that prevent frizz will be indicated by lower % change.
[0014] The results are as shown below:
Figure imgf000038_0001
[00112] The above results show that hair treated with formulas I and III of the present invention, showed significant prevention of frizz and better curl definition compared to hair treated with comparative formulas II, and IV.
It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that numerous modifications and variations can be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) at least one nitrogen-containing compound chosen from polyamine compounds having at least three amino groups, fatty monoamine compounds, fatty quaternary amine compounds, phospholipids and mixtures thereof;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant;
(c) at least one anionic silicone;
(d) at least one water-insoluble material chosen from non- anionic silicones, hydrocarbon oils, plant oils, fatty acids, fatty esters, fatty alcohols, fatty waxes, and mixtures thereof;
(e) at least one cationic polymer; and
(f) optionally, at least one film forming polymer, different from the at least one cationic polymer (e) .
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nitrogen- containing compound (a) is chosen from polymers comprising at least three amino groups .
3. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the nitrogen-containing compound (a) is chosen from aminated polysaccharides, polyethyleneimines, polyvinylamines, proteins and protein derivatives .
4. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the nitrogen-containing compound (a) is chosen from polyethyleneimines and polyvinylamines.
5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nitrogen- containing compound (a) is chosen from primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty monoamines containing at least one hydrocarbon group having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
6. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the nitrogen-containing compound (a) is chosen from tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nitrogen- containing compound (a) is chosen from quaternary amine compounds containing at least one long chain alkyl group having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
8. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the nitrogen-containing compound (a) is behentrimonium chloride.
9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nitrogen- containing compound (a) is chosen from lecithins.
10. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one nitrogen-containing compound (a) is present in a total amount of from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
11.- The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the at least one nitrogen-containing compound (a) is present in a total amount of from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the nonionic surfactant (b) has a HLB of from 8 to 20.
13. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the nonionic surfactant (b) is chosen from:
- alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: fatty alcohols, alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, wherein the fatty alkyl chain is in the Cs to C50 range,
- alkyl (poly) glycosides,
- glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids,
- sorbitan esters of fatty acids,
- alkoxylated derivatives of the following compounds: glyceryl esters of fatty acids, sorbitan esters of fatty acids, alkyl (poly) glycosides,
- and mixtures thereof.
14. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant (b) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition of the preceding claim, the at least one nonionic surfactant (b) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
16. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the anionic silicone (c) includes a silicone phosphate.
17. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the anionic silicone (c) includes a silicone carboxylate .
18. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the anionic silicone (c) includes a silicone sulfate.
19. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the anionic silicone (c) includes a silicone sulfosuccinate and/or a silicone sulfonate.
20. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one anionic silicone (c) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
21. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the at least one anionic silicone (c) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
22. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one water-insoluble material (d) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
23. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the at least one water-insoluble material (d) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
24. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the cationic polymer (e) is chosen from polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
25. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein .the at least one cationic polymer (e) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
26. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the at least one cationic polymer (e) is present in an amount of from 0,5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
27. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the at least one film forming polymer (f) is present in an amount of from greater than 0 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
28. The composition of the preceding claim, wherein the at least one film forming polymer (f) is present in an amount of from 0,5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
29. The composition of any preceding claim, containing at least one further water-insoluble ingredient chosen from the following:
(1) Lipophilic ingredients such as oil-soluble vitamins , sunscreens, ceramides;
(2) Water-insoluble polymers, resins, and latexes containing carboxyl moieties, such as acrylates and other carboxy polymers .
30. The composition of any preceding claim, containing at least one additional ingredient chosen from polar amino acids and their salts or derivatives, urea and its salts or derivatives, guanidine and its salts or derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
31. A process for treating hair fibers, which comprises contacting the hair fibers with a composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 30.
32. The process of claim 31, wherein the contacting step is followed by a rinsing step, after a leave-in time of between 10 seconds and 15 minutes
33. Use of a composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 30 for inhibiting hair fibers from absorbing and/or losing- water.
34. Use of a composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 30 as an anti-frizz composition.
PCT/IB2007/004196 2006-10-06 2007-10-05 Aqueous anti-frizz composition for hair WO2008041136A2 (en)

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US11/544,495 US20080085254A1 (en) 2006-10-06 2006-10-06 Aqueous phospholipid-containing anti-frizz composition for hair
US11/544,496 2006-10-06
US11/544,481 US20080085258A1 (en) 2006-10-06 2006-10-06 Aqueous polymaine-containing anti-frizz composition for hair
US11/544,496 US20080085255A1 (en) 2006-10-06 2006-10-06 Aqueous fatty monoamine-containing anti-frizz composition for hair
US11/544,481 2006-10-06
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