WO2007068331A1

WO2007068331A1 - Hair-treatment compositions with plant extracts and uv protection

Info

Publication number: WO2007068331A1
Application number: PCT/EP2006/011172
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thorsten Knappe; Sabine Albrechtsen
Original assignee: Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority date: 2005-12-13
Filing date: 2006-11-22
Publication date: 2007-06-21
Also published as: DE102005059931A1

Abstract

Hair-treatment compositions which confer on the hair a protection from chemical and/or physical influences, in particular protect it from the sun's rays and/or UV radiation, or prevent or reduce soiling, comprise - in each case based on the composition - in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one protein of the seed of plants of the genus Moringa and 0.01 to 15% by weight of at least one UV filter.

Description

"Hair treatment products with plant extracts and UV protection"

The invention relates to hair treatment compositions, preferably hairstyling agents.

Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. Of particular importance is the styling preparations, i. Products that serve temporary hair shaping, such as hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair styling, etc ..

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered to be chic, which in many hair types can only be built up using certain firming agents or maintained for a longer period of time.

These setting active ingredients, which are usually polymeric compounds, can be incorporated into conventional hair cleansing or conditioning agents. In many cases, however, it is advantageous to apply them in the form of special agents such as hair fixatives, hair gels, hair waxes or hair sprays.

Products that serve as a temporary change or fixation on the hairstyle usually remain on the hair and can fulfill other positive functions there. Thus, it is desirable, for example, to provide the hair with protection against chemical and / or physical influences, in particular to protect it against solar radiation and / or UV radiation, or to prevent or reduce soiling.

This task can also be put to other so-called leave-on products, also so-called rinse-off products can be included in the task, if the Substances that produce the desired effects are enough substantive to the hair surface. Regardless of the type of hair treatment compositions, it was therefore an object to provide agents which protect the hair from chemical and / or physical influences, in particular from UV radiation and dust soiling.

It has now surprisingly been found that the combination of UV filter substances known per se with certain plant extracts leads to positive results.

The present invention is in a first embodiment, an agent for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, containing - in each case based on the agent - in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) 0.01 to 10 wt .-% of at least one protein of the seed Genus of Moringagewächse and b) 0.01 to 15 wt .-% of at least one UV filter.

As a first essential ingredient, the compositions of the invention contain at least one protein of the seed of the genus Moringagewächse. According to the invention, the term "protein of the seed of the genus Moringa" also includes, in addition to the proteins in their natural form, the derivatives of these proteins which can be prepared by chemical and / or enzymatic conversion, for example the protein hydrolyzates and the quaternized derivatives of the seed of this plant genus.

It has long been known to use in cosmetic preparations proteins or modified proteins to achieve nourishing effects. Either water-soluble proteins or proteins modified by chemical and / or enzymatic reactions, ie made water-soluble, are used for this purpose. In the case of the reactions to achieve adequate solubility in water, fiber proteins often require such extensive degradation that the cosmetic effectiveness is no longer sufficient. Recently, more and more vegetable proteins and their hydrolyzates and derivatives have been used in cosmetics. For example, products based on wheat, oats, rice, corn, potatoes or soya are known.

To the plants, which contain interesting active ingredients, belongs also the family of the Moringagewächse. Moringa growths have been known since ancient times. Better known are plants of this species under their common name "Wunderbaum." They are preferred in home to tropical areas. The different parts of this plant genus have been used since ancient times, especially for medical purposes.

The genus of Moringagewächse include about 14 species. One of them is Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma). Other species include Moringa drouhardii, Moringa concanensis or Moringa peregrina. The protein is extracted from the seeds of the Moringa growth by gentle extraction with water and glycerine. This protein has a molecular weight of 500 to 50,000 daltons. Preference is given to a protein extract having a molecular weight of from 3000 to 30,000 daltons, very particularly preferably from 5000 to 15,000 daltons. Particularly preferred according to the invention is an extract which is obtained from the plant Moringa oleifera. Furthermore, the extract according to the invention may of course contain water and glycerol on account of the extraction. The content of extracted protein in the extract is 0.01 to 20% by weight. A content of protein of from 0.01 to 10% by weight is preferred. Particularly preferred is an extract with a protein content of 0.01 to 5 wt.%. Furthermore, the extract usually contains at least 30% by weight of glycerol. Finally, water is contained in the extract according to the invention. Such a protein is for example available under the trade name Puricare ^® LS 9658 by the company. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques commercially.

In the cosmetic compositions at least one protein from the seeds of Moringagewächse - for example in the form of the protein extract described above - in an amount of at least 0.01 to 10 wt.% Contained (amount of protein based on the total agent). Preferably, amounts of 0.01 to 7.5 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition used.

In particularly preferred compositions, the protein (or proteins) is used in certain weight ratios to the second essential ingredient. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the protein (s) of the seed of the genus of the Moringa growths and the UV filter (s) are in a weight ratio of 20: 1 to 1:10, preferably 15: 1 to 1: 5 preferably 10: 1 to 1: 2 and in particular 5: 1 to 2: 3 are used.

As a second essential constituent, the compositions according to the invention contain from 0.01 to 15% by weight, based on their weight, of at least one UV filter. The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. Rather, all suitable in the field of cosmetics are suitable UV filters whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred. Agents which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the UV filter (s) is / are selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters,

Diphenylacrylsäureestem,

cinnamic,

salicylates,

UV absorbing synthetic polymers,

Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of the present invention suitable UV filters are amino-benzoic acid 4-, N ₁ N ₁ N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxobom-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate (Homosalate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^®, ^® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3- dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α - (2-Oxobom-3-ylidene) - toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-e thylhexyl ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan OS ^®, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan E 1000 ^®), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^{® "SLX} (Diethylbenzylidene malonates Dimethicone; INCI: Polysilicone-15), Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N- { (2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1, 1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 30 3, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone- 6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, SSδ-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1 yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) -toluene -4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-) 2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1, 3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N- {(2 u nd 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Propan-1, 3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 2:00:00.

Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. For the purposes of the invention, water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ^° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U - Q. The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function , Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters,

- cinnamic acid ester, salicylic acid ester,

UV absorbing synthetic polymers, benzimidazoles and

o-aminobenzoic acid ester.

Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be selected such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _X -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^' , where x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are Ci. _4- alkyl groups, R ³ represents a C 1-4 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^"represents a physiologically acceptable anion In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either one Methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

In addition to the two obligatory ingredients, the agents according to the invention usually contain further ingredients of cosmetic agents. These are described below.

The use of surfactants (E) in the compositions according to the invention has proved to be particularly advantageous. In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention therefore contain surfactants. The term "surfactants" is understood as meaning surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Legs Carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (Soap),

Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x is 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = O or 1 to 12, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1 -I),

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OP (O) (OX) -OR ² (E1-I)

in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (EMI) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _x -COR ⁸

I CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H (E1-III)

I

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _Z SO ₃ X

in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for O or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, amide-ether carboxylic acids,

Condensation products of C ₈ - C ₃₀ - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® - types Gluadin ^® - types Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® - types.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are surface-active compounds which contain in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁰ - or - SO ₃ ^'' * wearing group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called Betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-ol Hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and for forming internal Salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, M-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the C ₂ - C ₈ - sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

- Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group, with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C. -atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as the type available under the commercial names Dehydol ^® LS, Dehydol ^® LT (Cognis),

C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

- addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),

alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (E4-I)

in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,

Amine oxides,

hydroxy mixed,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),

R ⁴ O- [G] p (E4-II)

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C ₈ -C ₀ (DP = 1 to 3), which are obtained as a flow in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₈ coconut fatty alcohol and may be contaminated with less than 6 wt .-% C ₁₂ alcohol and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated coconut oil alcohol having a DP Ci _2/14 1 to 3

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),

R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (E4-III)

R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which are usually obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, as represented by the formula (E4-IV):

R ⁷ CO-NR ⁸ -CH ₂ - (CHOH) ₄ -CH ₂ OH (E4-IV)

The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ^{7 is} CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petro-, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or those technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative can be obtained. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

Furthermore, very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.

The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to start from the production of these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so as to obtain substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or Alcohols are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines can be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

According to the invention, preference is given to using QAV with behenyl radicals, in particular those known as behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide). Other preferred QAV's have at least two behenyl residues, with QAV being particularly preferred, which are two behenyl residues on an imidazolinium backbone. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the names Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant) and Crodazosoft ^® DBQ (Crodauza).

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The cationic surfactants are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. "Based on the total agent" means in the context of the present invention "based on the mixture of the preparation of oxidation dye precursors (A) and the oxidizing agent preparation (B).

The surfactants (E) are preferably used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention ,

Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention.

In summary, agents according to the invention which contain surfactant (s) are preferred, preferred agents containing anionic surfactant (s) and particularly preferred agents containing alkylsulfate (s) and / or alkyl ether sulfate (s), and agents having from 1 to 20% by weight being particularly preferred. , preferably 2 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 2.5 to 10 wt .-% surfactant (s).

Another preferred group of ingredients of the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

- Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)

- Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Usable according to the invention Derivatives of panthenol are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the Nicotiπat, the phosphate and the succinate are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total agent included.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6af?) - 2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has become established. Biotin is preferred in the inventive compositions in amounts of

In summary, preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which contain vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H, preferred compositions comprising said compounds in amounts of from 0.1 to 5 Wt .-%, preferably from 0.25 to 4 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component being preferred,

- mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Partial esters of polyols of 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids of 8 to 22

C-atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which bind to C-atom 3 of the

Steroid scaffold carry a hydroxyl group and both from animal tissue

(Zoosterine) as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols) are isolated. examples for

Zoosterins are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are

Ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate

(Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product) Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionogenic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

As further advantageous, it has been shown that polymers (G) are included in the inventive compositions. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, polymers are added to the compositions used according to the invention, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven effective.

Cationic or amphoteric polymers are preferably usable according to the invention. Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

R ¹

- [CH ₂ -CI _n X- (G 1-1)

I CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _m -N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^'is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers, consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹ is a methyl group

R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^" are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37. Such products are obtainable, for example, under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ^® CR (Ethnichem) commercially. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C- _M- alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C ₄ -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be used as in the case of the homopolymers above described, be networked. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ^® SC 92nd

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^® ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives

- cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia ^® guar and Jaguar ^® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and Amides of

Acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The under the names Merquat ^® 100

(Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride

Acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic ones

polymers

- Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

- vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,

- quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

- as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers (. B. commercial product, Quatrisoft ^® LM 200) under the designations Polyquaternium-24, known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are. Other cationic polymers which can be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. Preferably, for example, are chitosan and its derivatives, such as 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB /.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are understood to mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^lh Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myctyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltπmonium Gelatm, Hydroxypropyltnmonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltπmonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltnmonium Hydrolyzed Conchiohn Protein , Hydroxypropyltnemonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropylmonomium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltmonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropylmethylenium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropylmethylenium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyz ed Collagen, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartπmonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemiurn-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants

In addition to cationic polymers or in their place, the agents according to the invention may also contain amphoteric polymers. These additionally have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. Zwitterionic polymers which can preferably be used in the context of the present invention are essentially composed together

A) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Z-I),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ( ⁺ ) R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^ ( ^{Z- |} ) In the R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^ ^" ) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid

and

B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-I

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (II)

in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.

The monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.

Advantageously, those monomers of formula (ZI) are used which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (ZI) in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups.

The acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a very particularly preferred monomer of the formula (ZI). Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.

The zwitterionic polymers which can be used according to the invention are prepared from monomers of the formulas (Z-I) and (Z-II) by polymerization processes known per se. The polymerization can be carried out either in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution. The alcohols used are alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably isopropanol, which simultaneously serve as polymerization regulators. However, other components than regulators may also be added to the monomer solution, eg. For example, formic acid or mercaptans, such as thioethanol and thioglycolic acid. The initiation of the polymerization takes place with the aid of free-radical-forming substances. For this purpose, redox systems and / or thermally decomposing radical formers of the azo compound type, such. As azoisobutyronitrile, azo-bis (cyanopentanoic acid) or azo-bis (amidinopropane) dihydrochloride can be used. As redox systems are z. B. combinations of hydrogen peroxide, potassium or ammonium oxodisulfate and tertiary butyl hydroperoxide with sodium sulfite, sodium dithionite or hydroxylamine hydrochloride as a reduction component.

The polymerization can be carried out isothermally or under adiabatic conditions, depending on the concentration ratios by the heat of polymerization released, the temperature range for the course of the reaction between 20 and 200 ° C may vary, and the reaction may be carried out under the autogenous pressure. Preferably, the reaction temperature is between 20 and 100 ⁰ C.

The pH during the copolymerization may vary within a wide range. Advantageously, polymerization is carried out at low pH values; however, pH values above the neutral point are also possible. After the polymerization is treated with an aqueous base, for. As sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia, to a pH between 5 and 10, preferably 6 to 8, discontinued. Further details of the polymerization process can be found in the examples.

Be particularly effective, such polymers have been found in which the monomers of the formula (Z-I) were present in excess over the monomers of formula (Z-II). It is therefore preferred according to the invention to use those polymers which consist of monomers of the formula (ZI) and the monomers of the formula (Z-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5 , consist.

The cationic or amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A special preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% acrylamide and 30 to 45 Mo! -% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group wholly or partly as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such F'olymer is included in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and melyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers for increasing the activity of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^" - or - contain SO ₃ ^' groups, and such polymers comprising -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ^® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters. Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ° (G3-I)

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z represents an NH 4

A group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and

(b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II)

in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{1 "} 'is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxy sulfate Ion is acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a) As the monomer (b) for the polymers mentioned acrylic acid is preferably used.

In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy- as they are for example sold under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules). Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch; shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble.

Suitable are both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes, where as non-volatile

Siloxanes are understood compounds whose boiling point is above atmospheric pressure above 200 ⁰ C. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as

Polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl

Contain groups.

Glycosidically substituted silicones.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

In addition to the substances mentioned, the compositions according to the invention may contain further care substances. With particular preference, these are, for example, vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors, so that preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain at least one substance from the group of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and derivatives thereof, with vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors preferred are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. These have been described in detail above.

Another group of care agents that may be included in the compositions of the invention are the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives (P). Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, Glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P). The protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight % up to 5% by weight.

Finally, the compositions of the invention may also contain other plant extracts (L).

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable. The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably formulated as hairstyling agents, for example as hair gels, hair waxes, hair sprays, foam aerosols, fixatives etc.

Compositions for strengthening hair are preferred according to the invention. These compositions can be formulated, for example, as hair sprays with propellant gas or as a pump spray and are then preferably formulated on the basis of lower alcohols.

In these sprays, ethanol is preferably contained as a solvent in an amount of at least 40% by weight, based on the whole preparation. Besides ethanol, the preparations may contain further lower alcohols, for example n-propanol and isopropanol, as solvent. Such preparations according to the invention preferably contain between 50 and 95% by weight of lower alcohols. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 52.5 to 90 wt .-%, in particular 55 to 85 wt .-% alcohol (s). Very particular preference is given to compositions according to the invention which contain 52.5 to 90% by weight, in particular 55 to 85% by weight, of ethanol.

In alcohol-containing formulations, it has proven to be advantageous to incorporate perfume in addition. Also, a content of alcohol-containing formulations of polymers, in particular to Acrylic acid or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers has proven to be advantageous.

Particular preference is given to formulations according to the invention which, based in each case on the

Means - in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

0.01 to 10 wt .-% of at least one protein of the seed of the genus Moringaga and

0.01 to 15 wt .-% of at least one UV filter and

50 to 90 wt .-% ethanol and / or n-propanol and / or iso-propanol

2 to 10 wt .-% of at least one polymer and / or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or

Contain methacrylic acid.

Surprisingly, such formulations can be clearly formulated, although

Protein hydrolysates are usually not alcohol soluble.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain as polymer and / or copolymer of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid a copolymer which additionally contains acrylamide monomers. Particularly preferred is the use of copolymers of octylacrylamide, acrylic acid and butylaminoethyl methacrylate, which are available under the trade name Amphomer® National Starch.

Further suitable polymers are those which contain as monomer at least one completely or partially neutralized, ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid having 3 or 4 carbon atoms. Suitable ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids are acrylic acid, crotonic acid and methacrylic acid. Furthermore, those polymers are suitable which contain as monomer at least one ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid having 4 carbon atoms, ie fumaric acid or maleic acid. Maleic acid is preferred. Also suitable according to the invention are the monoesters of these dicarboxylic acids with alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Butyl maleate is a particularly preferred monomer.

The carboxylic acid groups of the polymers are completely or partially neutralized with bases. The degree of neutralization is usually between 60 and 100%. Polymers in which only a small part of the carboxylic acid groups is not neutralized have particularly good properties in the preparations according to the invention. Polymers that have a degree of neutralization between 80 and 95% are therefore preferred.

For neutralization of the carboxylic acid groups, organic or inorganic bases can be used. Suitable inorganic bases are, for example, alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as calcium hydroxide and Magnesium hydroxide, aluminum hydroxide and ammonium hydroxide. Suitable organic bases are primary, secondary and tertiary amines and alkanolamines having 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups. Preferably, organic bases are used for neutralization. Triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol are particularly preferred bases.

Depending on the nature of the selected co-monomers, the polymers may be anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric, reference being made to the comments above.

According to the invention suitable anionic polymers are:

Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, such as, for example, under the names Resyn ^® (National Starch), Luviset ^® (BASF) and Gafset ^® (GAF) in the trade.

Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers, such as are for example as Ultrahold ^® 8 in the trade.

Vinyl acetate / mono-n-butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, as are obtainable under the trade name Advantage ^® (GAF). Advantage ^® CP is a preferred polymer.

Suitable zwitterionic polymers are, for example, the polymers disclosed in German patent applications DE 39 29 973, DE 21 50 557, DE 28 17 369 and DE 37 08 451. Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymers and their alkali and ammonium salts are particularly preferred zwitterionic polymers.

Suitable amphomeric polymers are, for example, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers.

An anionic polymer is preferably used as film former. Luviset CA-66 and Ultrahold ^® 8 are particularly preferred polymers.

The preparations according to the invention of this embodiment preferably contain the polymeric film formers in amounts of from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total preparation. Amounts of 2 to 7 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the said preferred formulations according to the invention may contain as solvent water in amounts of up to 20% by weight. Linear and branched alkanes having 5 to 7 carbon atoms and ketones having 3 to 6 carbon atoms may also be present as solvents in amounts of preferably less than 20% by weight in the preparations according to the invention.

The preparations according to the invention are preferably free of fluorochlorohydrocarbon blowing agents. It is preferred to formulate the preparations propellant-free as so-called pump sprays.

However, these preparations may also be formulated as propellant-containing agents. Suitable blowing agents are, in particular, air, nitrogen and noble gases. Preparations according to the invention preferably contain these blowing agents in amounts of from 0.5 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total preparation.

Because of the low inherent odor of the constituents, in particular of the polymers used, the preparations according to the invention of this embodiment are outstandingly suitable for use without perfume.

Another interesting embodiment of the invention is to provide perfume-free formulations for so-called pump sprays. In such sprays, the non-pressurized containers can be easily opened. The consumer is thereby enabled to put the perfume-free formulation obtained with a perfume of his choice and to determine the fragrance of the cosmetic itself. Examples of possible perfumes are Eau de Toilette, Eau de Perfume and perfume oils of the scents fresh / citrus green "), flowery, aldehydic, chypre and" oriental. "The corresponding perfume oils are familiar to the expert.

Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention may contain all cosmetic ingredients customary for such agents. These other ingredients are usually only in minor amounts, i. usually in amounts of up to a few wt .-%, included.

Usual ingredients are: Structurants such as glucose and maleic acid,

Protein hydrolysates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and

Wheat protein hydrolysates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized

protein,

Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

dyes,

Active ingredients such as panthenol, allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids, plant extracts and vitamins,

Light stabilizers,

preservative

Bodying agents such as addition products of from 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Nonionic polymers such as polyvinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone z. B. with

Vinyl acetate and polysiloxanes.

Cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers and with

Diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminomethacrylate vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and

Silicone oils.

Additionally preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention additionally contain silicone (s). Here, particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain silicone (s), preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0, 5 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

Particular preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which comprise at least one silicone selected from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked; (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups;

I) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;

(vi) or mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula I.

(CHa) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) J _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ); (I)

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain a silicone of the above formula I. These silicones are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as DIMETHICONE. In the context of the present invention, as the silicone of the formula I, the compounds are preferably:

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O - (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] 3 - O - Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] 4 O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] 5 O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃₎ ₃ Si- [O- (CH 3) 2 Si] 9-O-Si (CH ₃₎ 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH 3) 3

(CHsJsSi IO ^ TCHs SILn-O-SKCHaJa

(CH3) 3 Si - [O- (CH3) 2 Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH3) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si] ₁₄ -O-Si (CH 3) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) 3 Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred.

Of course, mixtures of o.g. Silicones may be included in the compositions of the invention.

Preferred silicones according to invention have at 2O ⁰ C viscosities of 0.2 to 2 mmV ^1, wherein silicones are particularly preferably having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mmV. ¹

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. through the formula

M (RaQbSiO ₍ 4-ab) / 2) x (RcSiO _(4-C ) / 2) yM

Will be described, wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is bonded, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, Hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH _r , phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ J ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂₎ _Z (CH ₂₎ _2Z NH wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure diamino-ring structures comprising, as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _Z zNX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. the molar ratio of R _a Q _b SiO ₍₄ _a. b) / 2 units to the R ₀ SiO _{(. 4} _{C) / 2} units is in the range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variables can be used Substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

Preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (II)

R-Agl-a-SKOSiG ₂₎ n (OSiG _b R _'2 ". WO-SiGj-a-R'a (H),

where:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-

CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH (CHs) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - 0-C (CH ₃ J ₃ , -C (CH ₃ J ₃ ;

a is a number between O and 3, in particular O;

b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m is preferably from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from O -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂ o -QN (R ¹¹ J ₂ o -QN ⁺ (R ¹¹ J ₃ A- o - QN ⁺ H (R ¹¹ J ₂ A ^" o -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ¹¹ JA ^" o -QN (R ¹¹ J-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R ¹¹ H ₂ A ^' , where each Q is a chemical Bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₃ J ₂ -, - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ J ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the d.zo-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , - CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ J ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ J ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromicl, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (IIa) (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] n [OSi (CH ₃ )] _m - OSi (CH ₃ ) 3 (IIa),

I

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (IIb) are also particularly preferred.

R- [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O] _n ₁ [Si (R) -O] _m - [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] n ₂ -R ("b),

I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g is. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight of amino-functional silicone (s). The cyclic dimethicones designated INCI as CYCLOMETHICONE® are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula III

in which x is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.

The silicone-in-water emulsions which can be used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes, as disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,998,537 and EP 0 874 017 A1.

In summary, this method of preparation comprises the emulsifying mixture of components, one of which contains at least one polysiloxane, the other of which contains at least one organosilicone material that reacts with the polysiloxane in a chain extension reaction, with at least one metal ion-containing catalyst for the chain extension reaction, at least one surfactant and water present are.

Chain extension reactions with polysiloxanes are known and may include, for example, the hydrosilylation reaction in which an Si-H group having an aliphatically unsaturated group in the presence of a platinum / rhodium catalyst to form polysiloxanes having some Si (C) _P- Si bonds (p = 1-6), the polysiloxanes also being referred to as polysiloxane-polysilalkylene copolymers.

The chain extension reaction may also include the reaction of an Si-OH group (e.g., a hydroxy-terminated polysiloxane) with an alkoxy group (e.g., alkoxysilanes, silicates, or alkoxysiloxanes) in the presence of a metal-containing catalyst to form polysiloxanes. The polysiloxanes used in the chain extension reaction comprise a substantially linear polymer of the following structure:

R-Si (R ₂ HO-Si (R ₂ H _n -O-SiR ₃

In this structure, each R independently represents a hydrocarbon radical having up to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as an alkyl group (for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl), an aryl group (for example, phenyl), or group required for the chain extension reaction ("reactive group", for example Si-bonded H atoms, aliphatically unsaturated groups such as vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, hydroxy, alkoxy, such as methoxy, ethoxy or propoxy, alkoxy-alkoxy, acetoxy, amino, etc.), with the proviso that on average one to two reactive groups are present per polymer, n is a positive number> 1. Preferably, a plurality of the reactive groups, more preferably> 90%, and especially> 98% of the reactive groups, at the terminal Si -Atomen bound in siloxane. Preferably, n is numbers describing polysiloxanes having viscosities between 1 and 1,000,000 mm ² / s, more preferably viscosities between 1,000 and 100,000 mm ² / s.

The polysiloxanes can be branched to a low degree (for example <2 mol% of the siloxane units), or the polymers are, however, substantially linear, particularly preferably completely linear. In addition, the substituents R in turn may be substituted, for example with N-containing groups (for example amino groups), epoxy groups, S-containing groups, Si-containing groups, O-containing groups, etc. Preferably, at least 80% of the radicals R are alkyl radicals, especially preferably methyl groups.

The organosilicone material that reacts with the polysiloxane in the chain extension reaction may be either a second polysiloxane or a molecule that acts as a chain extender. When the organosilicone material is a polysiloxane, it has the above-mentioned general structure. In these cases, one polysiloxane in the reaction has (at least) one reactive group, and a second polysiloxane has (at least) a second reactive group that reacts with the first.

If the organosilicone material comprises a chain extending agent, it may be a material such as a silane, a siloxane (e.g. disiloxane or trisiloxane) or a silazane. For example, a composition comprising a polysiloxane according to the general structure described above, which has at least one Si-OH group chain extended by reacting with an alkoxysilane (for example, a dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane) in the presence of tin or titanium containing catalysts.

The metal-containing catalysts in the chain extension reaction are usually specific for a particular reaction. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, metals such as platinum, rhodium, tin, titanium, copper, lead, etc. In a preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane having at least one aliphatically unsaturated group, preferably an end group, is reacted with an organosilicone material Presence of a hydrosysylation catalyst which is a siloxane or polysiloxane having at least one (preferably terminal) Si-H group. The polysiloxane has at least one aliphatically unsaturated group and satisfies the general formula given above in which R and n are as defined above, with an average of between 1 and 2 groups R having one aliphatically unsaturated group per polymer. Representative aliphatic unsaturated groups are, for example, vinyl, allyl, hexenyl and cyclohexenyl or a group R ² CH = CHR ³ in which R ^{2 is} a divalent aliphatic silicon-bonded chain and R ^{3 is} a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group. The organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group preferably has the above-mentioned structure, wherein R and n are as defined above and wherein, on average, between 1 and 2 groups R is hydrogen and n is 0 or a positive integer

This material may be a polymer or a low molecular weight material such as a siloxane (for example, a disiloxane or a trisiloxane).

The polysiloxane having at least one aliphatic unsaturated group and the organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group react in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, platinum and rhodium-containing materials. The catalysts may take any known form, for example platinum or rhodium coated on support materials (such as silica gel or activated carbon) or other suitable compounds such as platinum chloride, salts of platinum or chloroplatinic acids. Chloroplatinic acid, either as a commercially available hexahydrate or in anhydrous form, is a preferred catalyst because of its good dispersibility in organosilicone systems and low color changes.

In another preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane having at least one Si-OH group, preferably an end group, is reacted with an organosilicone material having at least one alkoxy group, preferably a siloxane at least one Si-OR group or an alkoxysilane having at least two alkoxy groups. In this case, the catalyst used is again a metal-containing catalyst.

For the reaction of an Si-OH group with an Si-OR group, there are many catalysts known from the literature, for example organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes. Examples include stannous octoate, dibutyltin dilaurate, dibutyltin diacetate, dimethyltin dineodecanoate, dibutyltin dimethoxide, isobutyltin triceroate, dimethyltin dibutyrate, dimethyltin dineodecanoate, triethyltin tartrate, tin oleate, tin naphthenate, tin butyrate, tin acetate, tin benzoate, tin sebacate, Tin succinate, tetrabutyl titanate, tetraisopropyl titanate, tetraphenyltitant, tetraoctadecyl titanate, titanium naphthanate, ethyltriethanolamine titanate, titanium diisopropyl diethyl acetoacetate, titanium diisopropoxy diacetyl acetonate and titanium tetra alkoxides in which the alkoxide is butoxy or propoxy.

In addition, the silicone-in-water emulsions preferably contain at least one surfactant.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula IV

R ₃ Si [O-SiR ₂ ] χ- (CH ₂ ) n- [O-SiR 2] _y O-SiR ₃ (IV) ₁

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the d.zo-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CHa) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C ( CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain a water-soluble silicone.

Another object of the present invention is a method for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, in which an agent according to the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers and after a contact time of 10 seconds to 60 Is rinsed minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 40 minutes and especially from 5 to 30 minutes. This method is used in so-called rinse-off products.

Another object of the present invention is a method for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, in which a composition according to the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers and left there until the next hair wash. This method is used in so-called leave-on products.

With respect to preferred methods mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Another object of the present invention is the use of agents, each based on the agent - in a cosmetically acceptable carrier c) 0.01 to 10 wt .-% of at least one protein of the seed of the genus Moringaga and d) 0.01 to 15 wt .-% of at least one UV filter, for

Improvement of the wet combability of the keratinic fibers and / or protection of the keratinic fibers from UV radiation and / or protection of the keratinic fibers from dirt adhesion and / or protection of the hair structure from physical and / or chemical influences.

Also with regard to preferred uses mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail: Examples:

1. Mousse

INCI Name: Polyquaternium-11 (CAS No. 53633-54-8)

Quaternized copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate. Gafquat ^® 755 NP is a high molecular weight product (average molecular weight 1, 000,000), the delivery form is a highly viscous, aqueous solution with 20% solids. ^* * INI name: Cetrimonium Chloride (Clariant)

INCI Name: WATER ₁ GLYCERINE, MORINGA PTERYGOSPERMA SEED EXTRACT (Laboratoires Serobiologiques)

2. Pump hair spray watery

INCI Name Vinyl Caprolactam / PVP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (and) Lauryl Pyrrolidone (ISP)

3.Gel cream

INCI name: polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7 (Seppic) ** wheat protein hydrolyzate (20% active ingredient in water, INCI name: Aqua (and)

Hydrolized Wheat Protein (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)

Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben) (HENKEL) Silicones: Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone, Dow Corning 1501, Dow Corning 245 Fluid

4. Gel

INCI name: carboxyvinyl polymer

5. Pump hair spray 55% VOC

INCI: Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (National

Starch)

Pump hair spray alcoholic

Claims

claims:

1. A composition for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing - in each case based on the composition - in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) 0.01 to 10 wt .-% of at least one protein of the seed of the genus Moringaga and b) 0, 01 to 15 wt .-% of at least one UV filter.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the or the protein (s) of the seed of the genus Moringagewächse and the or the UV filter in a weight ratio of 20: 1 to 1: 10, preferably 15: 1 to 1: 4, more preferably 10: 1 to 1: 2 and in particular 5: 1 to 2: 3 are used.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the or the UV filter is / are selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters,

diphenylacrylates,

cinnamic,

salicylates,

UV absorbing synthetic polymers,

Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains surfactant (s), wherein preferred agents anionic surfactant (s) and particularly preferred agents alkyl sulfate (s) and / or alkyl ether sulfate (e) and agents are particularly preferred containing 1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 2.5 to 10 wt .-% surfactant (s).

5. A process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that an agent according to one of claims 1 to 4 applied to the keratinic fibers and after a contact time of 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 40 minutes and in particular is rinsed out for 5 to 30 minutes.

6. A method for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 4 applied to the keratinic fibers and left there until the next hair wash.

7. Use of agents which in each case contain on the means - in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one protein of the seed of the genus Moringa and b) from 0.01 to 15% by weight. -% of at least one UV filter included, for