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WO2001014622A1 - A method and apparatus for producing tubular knitwear items provided with one or more laces, bows, strings or the like and resulting products - Google Patents

A method and apparatus for producing tubular knitwear items provided with one or more laces, bows, strings or the like and resulting products Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2001014622A1
WO2001014622A1 PCT/IT2000/000326 IT0000326W WO0114622A1 WO 2001014622 A1 WO2001014622 A1 WO 2001014622A1 IT 0000326 W IT0000326 W IT 0000326W WO 0114622 A1 WO0114622 A1 WO 0114622A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
needles
fabric
cylinder
laces
knitting
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IT2000/000326
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Franco Sciacca
Original Assignee
Franco Sciacca
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Franco Sciacca filed Critical Franco Sciacca
Priority to AU67235/00A priority Critical patent/AU6723500A/en
Publication of WO2001014622A1 publication Critical patent/WO2001014622A1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0113One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method and an apparatus for automatically producing tubular knitwear items provided with one or more laces, bows, strings or the like and resulting products.
  • the recent introduction of "full electronic" circular knitting machines with differentiated diameters (small and medium) has attracted the industry's interest since their versatility allows to produce a wide range of semifinished tubular items such as stockings, bras, panties, dresses, trousers, skirts, teddies, swimsuits, technical items and more.
  • most of the aforementioned knitwear items systematically require laborious and costly additional finishing operations such as cutting and sewing, which continuously and permanently affect production costs.
  • the Italian Patent No. 1288310 provides for different similar realisations pertaining to shoulder straps, loops or braces, or sundry openings for legs and arms; however, such solutions present technical difficulties and additional costs due to the complex and costly mechanisms for gripping and transporting the knitting fabric from one part of the cylinder to the other.
  • the present invention aims concretely to reduce or altogether eliminate the aforesaid technical and productive limitations, to automatically obtain tubular knitwear items complete with laces, bows, strings and/or various appendices with original productive, technical, aesthetic and commercial aims.
  • the present invention builds on the teachings of the Applicant's Italian patents no. 1295743 - no. 1288310 - no. CO-99-A000009 - no. CO-99-A000018 - no. CO-99-A000023 and lastly no. 1255008, the latter partially illustrated in Figs. 9-10-11-12.
  • this patent contemplates the production of knitwear items characterised by fabric areas with differentiated growth caused by the exclusion of a given number of needles, alternated relative to the adjacent ones, for instance 1:1, or 2:1 - 2: 2 and the like. Contrary to the norm, even a substantial part of impulses or commands usually directed to the needles is not sent to a part thereof, according to a defined scheme or program, conforming with the original drawing. This determines the exclusion from the knit forming process of the needles lacking inputs or commands; such exclusion, if total and in defined areas, would produce floating yarns, which are appropriately manipulated with the use of some working needles AD, Figs.
  • the invention is obtained also with a knit fabric produced only with a part of the needles present in the involved areas or zones. For instance, only the even needles AP will be excluded, or needles in alternating pairs; or groups of three working needles will be followed by one or more excluded needles, and so on.
  • a main aim of the present invention is to provide a method and the related apparatus for manufacturing tubular stitched items in general, also shaped or conformed, provided with at least a bow, lace, string and the like, in single or double layer fabric, produced automatically with the continuous or alternating motion of the cylinder needles, both with the aid of the dial or other needle bed, and with just the selection of needles or sinkers.
  • a further aim is to produce said tubular items provided with at least an appendix with substantially rectangular shaped, connected and stitched on only one side to the knit tube.
  • An additional aim is to provide a method and the related apparatus for the production of said tubular items provided with at least a lace, bow, string and the like, also double, separated by the knit tube at the extremities, but connected or stitched thereto in correspondence with the central part of said lace.
  • Another aim is to provide a method and the related apparatus for the manufacture of the aforementioned knitwear items provided with at least a bow, lace, string and the like, produced with the alternating motion of the cylinder and the aid of so-called "pickers" and/or by means of the sole electronic selection of the needles.
  • a method for automatically producing tubular knitwear items which can also be shaped, provided with one or more bows, laces, strings and various appendices, in knitting machines provided with at least a needlebed or dial, comprising the step of producing a first length of tubular knitted fabric having a cylindrical shape and ending with a last stitch course, characterized in that it comprises the step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric protruding from the tubular knitwear item and formed by partial and supplementary knitted courses, the supplementary portion having a first extremity substantially separated from the first length of tubular knitted fabric and a second extremity connected to the last stitch course, the step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric being carried out by automatic and programmed exclusion and subsequent resumption of a predetermined number of needles of the dial from the knit forming process, for a predetermined time interval.
  • the step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric comprises the steps of discharging a predetermined portion of the first length of tubular knitted fabric from the predetermined number of needles and producing, preferably with the alternating motion of the cylinder, a supplementary portion of knitted fabric with at least a part of the predetermined number of needles and producing at least a second length of fabric with the needles still engaged to the first length of tubular knitted fabric.
  • the method comprises at least a step of producing a third length of tubular knitted fabric by automatic and programmed exclusion and subsequent resumption of at least a part of the predetermined number of needles of the dial in the knit forming process, the third length starting with a first stitch course connected to the second extremity of the supplementary portion of knitted fabric.
  • said third length of tubular knitted fabric is also connected to the last stich course of said first length of tubular knitted fabric.
  • FIG. 3 is similar to figures 1, 2 and shows two different positions of the knitting fabric during a realisation of the invention
  • - Figure 10 and 10a show the frills of flounces Bi;
  • - Figure 13 is a perspective view of a cylinder CYL and a knit tube TM with a supplementary portion or knit lace M;
  • - Figures 14, 14a, 14b, 14c show different embodiments of the knit lace M;
  • - Figure 15 is a view similar to figure 13 with the knit lace in a second position Ml;
  • Figure 16 is a view similar to figure 13 with the knit lace produced with knitting reductions;
  • Figure 17 is a view similar to figure 16 with two detached laces Ml with traditional wastes ;
  • FIG. 18 show a plan view of the knit tube TM provided with laces 2 - 2a - 2b and appendix 2c;
  • FIG. 19 shows a lateral displacement of a yarn from loops 5 and 6 of row C to the adjacent loops of the row, caused by the absence of the related needles;
  • FIG. 20 shows various embodiments and positions of knit laces and bows of the invention
  • FIG. 24 and 25 show a tubular item, in particular a bra, characterised by the presence of bows or laces 3;
  • FIG. 26 and 27 show a panty provided with bows or laces 3;
  • - Figures 28 and 29 show a stocking provided with bows or laces 3, 3A and 4A;
  • FIG. 30 show a dress characterised by the presence of bows or laces indicated as 3 and 3A.
  • FIG. 1 shows a section view of the lowered needles A and raised needles A' ; the sinkers PM with related sinker cover CP; the yarn feeders GU and the yarn Y.
  • the hooks U On the dial P are housed the hooks U in retracted position and U2, in advanced position, provided with two or more butts heights for the various mechanical selections or equipped with electronic selection (not shown herein) .
  • a first length of tubular knitted fabric having a cylindrical shape and ending with a last stitch course is produced by the knitting machine.
  • the knitting fabric MI is normally engaged to the needles A.
  • the stitch loops formerly indicated as MI are shown transferred onto the overlying hooks BU with some final knitted courses or waste W.
  • the knitting fabric formerly indicated as MI assumes the upper position MS.
  • Fig. 3 partially shows the set of different positions of the knitting during a realisation of the invention.
  • the dial is provided with hooks with high butts TA (and low ones TB) able temporarily to hold the knitting fabric MS in the position indicated as BU.
  • the second knitting cycle has started for the fabric MI-2, or the double welt DB produced with the fixed selection of the needles, for instance the odd ones.
  • the remaining half of the cylinder, with the needles Al continues to produce fabric M as always.
  • the references AJ and AJ 1 indicated special nozzles for compressed air able to open the latches of the needles and/or to thrust the fabric inside the cylinder.
  • a textile preparation phase is provided so that the few knitted courses produced between the aforementioned loading of the hooks BU and the last knitted course W, Fig. 2, are characterised by knit structures, also with double welt, mesh type or non-run type with variable stitch densities controlled electronically by the related motorised computer-controlled knit cams (not shown) , together with the use of suitable yarns, for instance elastic and/or ther o-adhesive, i.e. able gradually to melt, interlacing with the adjacent loops or stitches.
  • the machine or the work cycle of the textile item are in the "zero" position with all feeds cancelled, the yarn feeders GU excluded and the consequent temporary stop of the manufacturing cycle.
  • FIG. 5 The subsequent descent step of said needles is shown in Figures 4-5-6.
  • the needle A of Fig. 4 starts the descent and the last loop B, adhering against the stem of the needles, inserting itself under the tab L starts to close it automatically and progressively.
  • the aforementioned latches will be closed completely, Fig. 5, serving as a "bridge" for the same loops B which are then definitively detached, as in Fig. 6.
  • the sinkers P move progressively and radially backwards following the arrow F, synchronously with the descent motion of the needles A.
  • the progressive detachment of the loops B from the involved needles takes place only after the transport of the fabric formerly indicated as MI, Fig. 1, and now MS, Fig.
  • the currently disengaged needles must necessarily re-start the manufacturing process and are thus selected and directed progressively on at least an ascent cam according to a predefined sequence, such as 1:3 (a working needle and three excluded ones) followed by the fixed selection 1:1, so that, depending on technical-textile variables, all the needles first or only half the disengaged needles, for instance the odd ones, take up the new yarn, ready for the occasion, for a second knitting start.
  • a latch- opener device AL for opening the latches forcibly.
  • Figure 7 the latch L is still against the hook U inside which a latch-opener metal tip AL is automatically positioned until the latch L is open and upset in the direction of the arrow F.
  • Figure 8 is a plan view of the cylinder CYL, rotating according to the arrow F. The needle hook U, adhering to the latch L, finds on the obligated ascent path the latch opening element AL, inserted for this purpose.
  • the knitting machine could be equipped with compound needles, which resume the stitch-forming process without latch openers After the opening of the latches of the needles in the way just described, which can be effected with due variations also with alternating motion (in other embodiments the latch is open by means of compressed air jet from above, or by means of a thin lamina able to be inserted between the hook and the latch) , the method for forming the knitting resumes.
  • This second knitting cycle resumes with a supplementary portion with a simple welt or double welt DB, also indicated as MI-2 in Figure 3, forming the aforementioned bows or laces and the like.
  • said laces and the like are produced during the first knitting cycle, at the start of the knitwear item.
  • Such laces are characterised in that they are substantially connected to the knit tube at a single extremity or side, and said connection, alternative to the usual engagement, can be obtained by means of a plurality of floating yarns 7, in Fig. 13.
  • Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the cylinder CYL, the knit tube TM, separated by the subsequent knit lace M, still on the needles with the extremity 7 characterised by a plurality of floating yarns, which may optionally be alternative to the fabric.
  • the invention also provides for the careful use of alternating motion with the augmentation and/or reduction technique, i.e.
  • knit lace M in Fig. 16 produced with the technique of alternating motion only of the needles of the area F3, progressively reduced as indicated with the arrows F.
  • FIG. 17 Another preferred embodiment is schematically shown in Fig. 17: the symmetrical knit laces Ml are initially produced only with the needles of the cylinder F3, whilst the two wastes are limited to the lateral areas indicated as F2.
  • Fig. 18 shows some configurations or locations of the various appendices or laces produced in accordance with the present invention: about the generic knit tube TM seen in plan view, are engaged the lace 2; the longer lace 2a; the double lace 2b and lastly the lap or ample and rectangular appendix 2c.
  • Figure 19 shows a typical jersey knit structure characterised in that the virtual loops 5 and 6 of the row D are displaced on the adjacent needles 2 - 3- 4 of the knitted course E.
  • the invention employs the usual techniques, using or being aided by "pickers", punches, needles or sinkers or other movable organs suitable for the purposes, positioned and operating at times on a second needle bed.
  • Fig. 20 schematically shows some phases of the production cycle of one of the preferred embodiments of the invention.
  • the laces LI and L2 are produced with the alternating motion of the cylinder FI - F2, before the knitwear item or tube TM which is clearly separated from said laces, except for the two front extremities.
  • the upper knitting fabric portion 1 is produced with the alternating motion MA and the portion 2 with the continuous motion MC.
  • the lower part of the window or front opening is formed by two regular selvedges K, followed by irregular welts joined by the floating yarns FF.
  • Fig. 21 the knitwear item 1, provided with laces 3 is folded according to the arrows F, a solution that is suitable for multiple functions such as a collar, a cuff, and more .
  • Fig. 22 shows a simpler embodiment of the invention: after completion of the laces 3, the production of the knitwear item 1 continues with the continuous motion of the cylinder together with the exclusion of a group of needles in the front area partially and purposely covered with floating yarns FF, which can be further manipulated in accordance with the teachings of Figures 9 through 12. Also within the scope of the invention is the double shaped welt DB of the knitwear item of Fig.
  • said double welt DB presents a substantial level offset or fall relative to the regular height Z, obtained by means of: the smaller number of working needles; the reduced knit density by means of the related movable cams via computer; and preferably, according to the teachings of the patent mentioned in the premise, no. 1255008 and partially shown in Figs. 9 through 12.
  • the laces 3 of the Fig. 23 are inserted optically in two circles J produced through the selection of the needles, whilst the letter H indicates the hole (or slot) obtained with the technique of discharging and taking up the knitting of some needles, i.e. the technique already described and shown in Figures 4 through 8.
  • the reference letter T indicates the thin knit line, variable in amplitude, caused by the transfer of the knitting fabric from the hooks of the dial to the needles of the cylinder.
  • Figures 24 through 30 summarily show some knitwear items provided with bows, laces and the like produced according to the teachings of the invention.
  • Figures 24 and 25 show the tubular band 1 that is to serve as a support-bra with the laces 3 and the knitting line TP also deriving from the transfer of the knitting fabric, from the hooks of the dial to the needles.
  • FIG. 27 shows a lateral and front view of the sock 1 and 1A, provided with free laces 3 and 4, and tied laces 3a and 4a, serving different aesthetic and functions.
  • Fig. 30 shows the dress 1 fitted with a lacing on the sides 3, on the lower welt 3a, reproducible according to the invention also on the tubular sleeves S1-S2. Constructive details can vary in equivalent fashion in the form, dimensions and/or position, as well as in the nature of the technical materials and/or fabrics in use, without thereby departing from the scope of the present invention.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to tubular kniwear items, which may also be shaped, provided with laces, strings, bows and/or the like, produced automatically; the latter formed by a plurality of partial and supplementary knitted courses, substantially separated by the knit tube, connected thereto at a single extremity or side. The invention co-ordinates the appropriate selection of the needles, in accordance with the jacquard design and with the oeprating cycle of the textile machine, also with the aid of the hooks or needles of the dial or other needle bed and it allows, for defined fabric areas or groups of needles, the total cessation and/or the production of knitting fabric, followed by the production of new knitted courses, only after having produced, preferably with the alternating motion of the cylinder, and discharged, the aforesaid partial and supplementary knitted courses.

Description

A Method and Apparatus for Producing Tubular Knitwear Items Provided with One or More Laces, Bows, Strings or the Like and Resulting Products Technical Field The present invention relates to a method and an apparatus for automatically producing tubular knitwear items provided with one or more laces, bows, strings or the like and resulting products. The recent introduction of "full electronic" circular knitting machines with differentiated diameters (small and medium), has attracted the industry's interest since their versatility allows to produce a wide range of semifinished tubular items such as stockings, bras, panties, dresses, trousers, skirts, teddies, swimsuits, technical items and more. But due to some inherent technical limitations, among them the lack of laces, bows, strings and similar appendices, most of the aforementioned knitwear items systematically require laborious and costly additional finishing operations such as cutting and sewing, which continuously and permanently affect production costs.
Insofar as is known, the Italian Patent No. 1288310 provides for different similar realisations pertaining to shoulder straps, loops or braces, or sundry openings for legs and arms; however, such solutions present technical difficulties and additional costs due to the complex and costly mechanisms for gripping and transporting the knitting fabric from one part of the cylinder to the other. The present invention aims concretely to reduce or altogether eliminate the aforesaid technical and productive limitations, to automatically obtain tubular knitwear items complete with laces, bows, strings and/or various appendices with original productive, technical, aesthetic and commercial aims. For some embodiments, the present invention builds on the teachings of the Applicant's Italian patents no. 1295743 - no. 1288310 - no. CO-99-A000009 - no. CO-99-A000018 - no. CO-99-A000023 and lastly no. 1255008, the latter partially illustrated in Figs. 9-10-11-12.
Briefly, this patent contemplates the production of knitwear items characterised by fabric areas with differentiated growth caused by the exclusion of a given number of needles, alternated relative to the adjacent ones, for instance 1:1, or 2:1 - 2: 2 and the like. Contrary to the norm, even a substantial part of impulses or commands usually directed to the needles is not sent to a part thereof, according to a defined scheme or program, conforming with the original drawing. This determines the exclusion from the knit forming process of the needles lacking inputs or commands; such exclusion, if total and in defined areas, would produce floating yarns, which are appropriately manipulated with the use of some working needles AD, Figs. 10, 10a, duly spaced, with the dual purpose of reducing the length of the floating yarns and of creating interesting knitted structures or three-dimensional frills Bi, Figs. 10, 10a. Therefore, the invention is obtained also with a knit fabric produced only with a part of the needles present in the involved areas or zones. For instance, only the even needles AP will be excluded, or needles in alternating pairs; or groups of three working needles will be followed by one or more excluded needles, and so on. The simultaneous presence of working needles 1 - 3, alternating with excluded needles, 2 - 4, Figs. 11 - 12, for defined areas and for a time interval which may be relatively long (corresponding to a high number of knitted courses), is the sufficient and necessary condition for the manufacture of an original stitched fabric, formed by the working needles and related loops 7AD but interrupted and still interlaced with the excluded needles and loops AP, in order to produce a closed knit frill, with two layers or fabrics Bi, Figs. 10, 10a, which is repeatable and/or variable in height, width and diagonal.
All this stated, the invention intends to reduce to a significant extent or eliminate at least in part some of the_ aforesaid technical and productive limitations. A main aim of the present invention is to provide a method and the related apparatus for manufacturing tubular stitched items in general, also shaped or conformed, provided with at least a bow, lace, string and the like, in single or double layer fabric, produced automatically with the continuous or alternating motion of the cylinder needles, both with the aid of the dial or other needle bed, and with just the selection of needles or sinkers.
A further aim is to produce said tubular items provided with at least an appendix with substantially rectangular shaped, connected and stitched on only one side to the knit tube.
An additional aim is to provide a method and the related apparatus for the production of said tubular items provided with at least a lace, bow, string and the like, also double, separated by the knit tube at the extremities, but connected or stitched thereto in correspondence with the central part of said lace. Another aim is to provide a method and the related apparatus for the manufacture of the aforementioned knitwear items provided with at least a bow, lace, string and the like, produced with the alternating motion of the cylinder and the aid of so-called "pickers" and/or by means of the sole electronic selection of the needles.
Disclosure of the Invention
The above mentioned aims are substantially achieved by a method for automatically producing tubular knitwear items, which can also be shaped, provided with one or more bows, laces, strings and various appendices, in knitting machines provided with at least a needlebed or dial, comprising the step of producing a first length of tubular knitted fabric having a cylindrical shape and ending with a last stitch course, characterized in that it comprises the step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric protruding from the tubular knitwear item and formed by partial and supplementary knitted courses, the supplementary portion having a first extremity substantially separated from the first length of tubular knitted fabric and a second extremity connected to the last stitch course, the step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric being carried out by automatic and programmed exclusion and subsequent resumption of a predetermined number of needles of the dial from the knit forming process, for a predetermined time interval. Advantageously the step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric comprises the steps of discharging a predetermined portion of the first length of tubular knitted fabric from the predetermined number of needles and producing, preferably with the alternating motion of the cylinder, a supplementary portion of knitted fabric with at least a part of the predetermined number of needles and producing at least a second length of fabric with the needles still engaged to the first length of tubular knitted fabric. Preferably the method comprises at least a step of producing a third length of tubular knitted fabric by automatic and programmed exclusion and subsequent resumption of at least a part of the predetermined number of needles of the dial in the knit forming process, the third length starting with a first stitch course connected to the second extremity of the supplementary portion of knitted fabric. Advantageously said third length of tubular knitted fabric is also connected to the last stich course of said first length of tubular knitted fabric.
Additional aims are apparent from the description, embodiments and accompanying drawings, by themselves or in mutual combination, in addition to the final claims. The features of the invention and the advantages which derive from it shall become more readily apparent from the following description of embodiments provided by way of example and can be applied advantageously to most knitwear and hosiery circular machines.
Brief Description of the Drawings
The description will be made with reference to the accompanying drawings in which: - Figure 1 shows a section particular view of a circular knitting machine with a knitting fabric engaged to the needles of the dial; - Figure 2 is a view similar to figure 1 with the fabric transferred onto overlying hooks;
- Figure 3 is similar to figures 1, 2 and shows two different positions of the knitting fabric during a realisation of the invention;
- Figures 4, 5 and 6 are side views of needles and sinkers of the circular machine during the discharge of last fabric loops B;
- Figures 7 and 8 show to a mechanical latch opening device;
- Figures 9, 11 and 12 technically show a selection of the needles for the production of three-dimensional frills or flounces Bi;
- Figure 10 and 10a show the frills of flounces Bi; - Figure 13 is a perspective view of a cylinder CYL and a knit tube TM with a supplementary portion or knit lace M;
- Figures 14, 14a, 14b, 14c show different embodiments of the knit lace M; - Figure 15 is a view similar to figure 13 with the knit lace in a second position Ml;
- Figure 16 is a view similar to figure 13 with the knit lace produced with knitting reductions;
- Figure 17 is a view similar to figure 16 with two detached laces Ml with traditional wastes ;
- Figure 18 show a plan view of the knit tube TM provided with laces 2 - 2a - 2b and appendix 2c;
- Figure 19 shows a lateral displacement of a yarn from loops 5 and 6 of row C to the adjacent loops of the row, caused by the absence of the related needles;
- Figures 20, 21, 22 and 23 show various embodiments and positions of knit laces and bows of the invention; - Figures 24 and 25 show a tubular item, in particular a bra, characterised by the presence of bows or laces 3;
- Figures 26 and 27 show a panty provided with bows or laces 3; - Figures 28 and 29 show a stocking provided with bows or laces 3, 3A and 4A;
- Figure 30 show a dress characterised by the presence of bows or laces indicated as 3 and 3A.
Description of the Illustrative Embodiments
These results are easily achieved according to the invention, and purely with descriptive and non limiting purposes, most of the description concerns a "full electronic" type of circular machine, fitted with at least: a needle bed or cylinder rotating against stationary cams or vice versa; a complete feeding station, provided with one or more yarn feeder; preferably electronic needle selection able to control the elements concurring in the formation of the stitching according to a work cycle and jacquard pattern; pneumatic or mechanical system for drawing the fabric and lastly said circular machine is also equipped with a dial provided with selectable needles or hooks. In a preferred embodiment, the invention is initially obtained with the preparation of a work cycle or jacquard design, i.e. information addressed to the needles and jacks or other elements concurring directly or indirectly to the manufacture of the fabric, by means of a usual graphic station or other control or memory devices or by means of electromechanical, magnetic, optical apparatuses, and other means suitable for the purposes. Currently, the tubular knitwear items mentioned in the premise are produced with the needles of the cylinder since the hooks of the dial are, as a rule, used to form the so-called double welt. Figure 1 shows a section view of the lowered needles A and raised needles A' ; the sinkers PM with related sinker cover CP; the yarn feeders GU and the yarn Y. On the dial P are housed the hooks U in retracted position and U2, in advanced position, provided with two or more butts heights for the various mechanical selections or equipped with electronic selection (not shown herein) . Generally, a first length of tubular knitted fabric having a cylindrical shape and ending with a last stitch course is produced by the knitting machine. The knitting fabric MI is normally engaged to the needles A. In Fig. 2, the stitch loops formerly indicated as MI are shown transferred onto the overlying hooks BU with some final knitted courses or waste W. In the specific case the knitting fabric formerly indicated as MI assumes the upper position MS. Fig. 3 partially shows the set of different positions of the knitting during a realisation of the invention. At the top, the dial is provided with hooks with high butts TA (and low ones TB) able temporarily to hold the knitting fabric MS in the position indicated as BU. In the meantime, on the corresponding needles A, the second knitting cycle has started for the fabric MI-2, or the double welt DB produced with the fixed selection of the needles, for instance the odd ones. The remaining half of the cylinder, with the needles Al continues to produce fabric M as always. The references AJ and AJ 1 indicated special nozzles for compressed air able to open the latches of the needles and/or to thrust the fabric inside the cylinder. In accordance with the present invention, the knit tube MI in Fig. 1, still inside the needle cylinder, is temporarily and preferably only partly, for instance 180° or half the cylinder, to the hooks U housed in the overlying dial P of Fig. 1. Consequently the usual selection mechanism (not shown) of the butts of the aforementioned hooks U is modified to engage only the high butts TA, Fi.gs. 1 - 2 - 3, corresponding, in this specific case, to about half the dial or cylinder. By loading the hooks U, the transfer is obtained of a part of the knit tube, formerly MI, from the needle cylinder onto the hooks U, in position BU, Fig. 2. At this point the needles A corresponding to the transferred fabric are offloaded or disengaged in the usual manner. But in order to avoid undesired unravelling, a textile preparation phase is provided so that the few knitted courses produced between the aforementioned loading of the hooks BU and the last knitted course W, Fig. 2, are characterised by knit structures, also with double welt, mesh type or non-run type with variable stitch densities controlled electronically by the related motorised computer-controlled knit cams (not shown) , together with the use of suitable yarns, for instance elastic and/or ther o-adhesive, i.e. able gradually to melt, interlacing with the adjacent loops or stitches. In this phase or embodiment, the machine or the work cycle of the textile item are in the "zero" position with all feeds cancelled, the yarn feeders GU excluded and the consequent temporary stop of the manufacturing cycle. In the specific case, half of the knit tube, M, Fig. 3, is still engaged with the needles Al of the cylinder, whilst the second half, MS in Figs. 2-3, is temporarily transferred onto corresponding hooks BU of the dial P. (In another embodiment, the previous knitting fabric MI of Fig. 1 is not transferred onto the hooks BU of dial, Fig. 2, but is totally and adequately offloaded both to disengage the needles subsequently used to produce the additional fabric which will form the supplementary portion or lace, and purposely to obtain a permanent opening.) At this point, in accordance with the invention, only the programmed needles, as a rule arranged in a group and adjacent, are selected and sent on a usual ascent cam (not shown) free of yarn in a single feed to lift completely. The maximum elevation of these needles yields two important results: all their latches L, automatically opening, are positioned above the last loops B, still engaged between the needles and the sinkers, like the needles 1 - 3 in Fig. 12.
The subsequent descent step of said needles is shown in Figures 4-5-6. The needle A of Fig. 4 starts the descent and the last loop B, adhering against the stem of the needles, inserting itself under the tab L starts to close it automatically and progressively. Continuing the descent of the needles, the aforementioned latches will be closed completely, Fig. 5, serving as a "bridge" for the same loops B which are then definitively detached, as in Fig. 6. In this phase also the sinkers P move progressively and radially backwards following the arrow F, synchronously with the descent motion of the needles A. The progressive detachment of the loops B from the involved needles takes place only after the transport of the fabric formerly indicated as MI, Fig. 1, and now MS, Fig. 2, from the needles of the cylinder to the corresponding hooks BU of the dial. In this operative phase, the total discharge of the programmed needles produces in the fabric tube a continuous horizontal opening in the direction of the knitted courses which will be sutured only with the return of the stitch MS by means of the transfer from the hooks BU to the original needles .
In accordance with the invention the currently disengaged needles, temporarily lacking knitting fabric, must necessarily re-start the manufacturing process and are thus selected and directed progressively on at least an ascent cam according to a predefined sequence, such as 1:3 (a working needle and three excluded ones) followed by the fixed selection 1:1, so that, depending on technical-textile variables, all the needles first or only half the disengaged needles, for instance the odd ones, take up the new yarn, ready for the occasion, for a second knitting start. During this ascent, the disengaged needles, still with the latches L closed, find on the obligated path a latch- opener device AL for opening the latches forcibly. The described procedure is illustrated schematically in Figure 7: the latch L is still against the hook U inside which a latch-opener metal tip AL is automatically positioned until the latch L is open and upset in the direction of the arrow F. Figure 8 is a plan view of the cylinder CYL, rotating according to the arrow F. The needle hook U, adhering to the latch L, finds on the obligated ascent path the latch opening element AL, inserted for this purpose.
In an alternative embodiment, the knitting machine could be equipped with compound needles, which resume the stitch-forming process without latch openers After the opening of the latches of the needles in the way just described, which can be effected with due variations also with alternating motion (in other embodiments the latch is open by means of compressed air jet from above, or by means of a thin lamina able to be inserted between the hook and the latch) , the method for forming the knitting resumes. This second knitting cycle resumes with a supplementary portion with a simple welt or double welt DB, also indicated as MI-2 in Figure 3, forming the aforementioned bows or laces and the like. (In another embodiment, said laces and the like are produced during the first knitting cycle, at the start of the knitwear item. ) Such laces, able to vary in amplitude, height and shape, are characterised in that they are substantially connected to the knit tube at a single extremity or side, and said connection, alternative to the usual engagement, can be obtained by means of a plurality of floating yarns 7, in Fig. 13. Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the cylinder CYL, the knit tube TM, separated by the subsequent knit lace M, still on the needles with the extremity 7 characterised by a plurality of floating yarns, which may optionally be alternative to the fabric. In regard to the so-called waste, term that is well known to the persons versed in the art, the invention also provides for the careful use of alternating motion with the augmentation and/or reduction technique, i.e. with the lateral displacement or transfer of the yarn relative to the gradually variable number of the needles dedicated to the purpose. Lastly, after the production and the detachment of the laces of the invention, the knitting fabric MS, Figs. 2-3, formerly on the hooks BU, is "transferred" to the needles A of the cylinder, both to suture two knitted parts produced at different times, and to resume the work cycle. Figure 13 schematically shows a different embodiment of the invention.
Through the view 1 of the cylinder CYL, complete with needles N, one can observe the last row MP of the knit tube TM inside the cylinder. The production of the knit lace M, subsequent relative to the last row MP, is preferably obtained with the alternating motion of the cylinder and a limited number of needles, corresponding to F3.. This second work process can vary considerably (Figs. 14, 14a, 14b, 14c) relative to the previous stitch: in the nature and colour of the yarn; in new knitting patterns; in knitting density; single or double layer with the odd needles only, or double welt with the additional aid of the hooks (or needles) of the dial. Lastly, in the number of engaged needles, also subject to the known augmentations and/or reductions, similarly to the working of the butts and toe of the socks; with the careful selection of jacks or needles. In regard to the waste of the subject lace M, this can be of the traditional type, for which the procedures described above and illustrated in Figure 2, W apply; or it can be considerably reduced or absent as in the hypothesis in which said knit lace M be produced with the technique of the programmed augmentation and/or reduction of the working needles. After extraction or detachment, even partial, F4, Fig. 15, the knit lace M assumes the position Ml, Fig. 15, remaining engaged only at the extremity MF. Or it is connected to the adjacent loops only with loose yarns alternative to the knitting, already indicated as 7 in Figure 13. Also within the scope of the invention is the knit lace M in Fig. 16 produced with the technique of alternating motion only of the needles of the area F3, progressively reduced as indicated with the arrows F.
Another preferred embodiment is schematically shown in Fig. 17: the symmetrical knit laces Ml are initially produced only with the needles of the cylinder F3, whilst the two wastes are limited to the lateral areas indicated as F2.
Consequently, the laces Ml are engaged only in the central knit area MF corresponding to the needles F. This area MF can naturally be widened until it includes all needles F3, thus obtaining a new result due to the exclusion of said wastes W. Fig. 18 shows some configurations or locations of the various appendices or laces produced in accordance with the present invention: about the generic knit tube TM seen in plan view, are engaged the lace 2; the longer lace 2a; the double lace 2b and lastly the lap or ample and rectangular appendix 2c. Figure 19 shows a typical jersey knit structure characterised in that the virtual loops 5 and 6 of the row D are displaced on the adjacent needles 2 - 3- 4 of the knitted course E. In this respect the invention employs the usual techniques, using or being aided by "pickers", punches, needles or sinkers or other movable organs suitable for the purposes, positioned and operating at times on a second needle bed.
Fig. 20 schematically shows some phases of the production cycle of one of the preferred embodiments of the invention. The laces LI and L2 are produced with the alternating motion of the cylinder FI - F2, before the knitwear item or tube TM which is clearly separated from said laces, except for the two front extremities. The upper knitting fabric portion 1 is produced with the alternating motion MA and the portion 2 with the continuous motion MC. The lower part of the window or front opening is formed by two regular selvedges K, followed by irregular welts joined by the floating yarns FF.
Some hypotheses of this embodiment are shown in Fig. 21: the knitwear item 1, provided with laces 3 is folded according to the arrows F, a solution that is suitable for multiple functions such as a collar, a cuff, and more .
Fig. 22 shows a simpler embodiment of the invention: after completion of the laces 3, the production of the knitwear item 1 continues with the continuous motion of the cylinder together with the exclusion of a group of needles in the front area partially and purposely covered with floating yarns FF, which can be further manipulated in accordance with the teachings of Figures 9 through 12. Also within the scope of the invention is the double shaped welt DB of the knitwear item of Fig. 23, characterised in that in correspondence with the front and rear central part (or elsewhere, if appropriate) indicated as F, said double welt DB presents a substantial level offset or fall relative to the regular height Z, obtained by means of: the smaller number of working needles; the reduced knit density by means of the related movable cams via computer; and preferably, according to the teachings of the patent mentioned in the premise, no. 1255008 and partially shown in Figs. 9 through 12. The laces 3 of the Fig. 23 are inserted optically in two circles J produced through the selection of the needles, whilst the letter H indicates the hole (or slot) obtained with the technique of discharging and taking up the knitting of some needles, i.e. the technique already described and shown in Figures 4 through 8. Lastly, the reference letter T indicates the thin knit line, variable in amplitude, caused by the transfer of the knitting fabric from the hooks of the dial to the needles of the cylinder.
Figures 24 through 30 summarily show some knitwear items provided with bows, laces and the like produced according to the teachings of the invention.
In particular, Figures 24 and 25 show the tubular band 1 that is to serve as a support-bra with the laces 3 and the knitting line TP also deriving from the transfer of the knitting fabric, from the hooks of the dial to the needles.
The bows 3 of Fig. 25, duly laced or tied, produce an interesting aesthetic and functional effect together with the simultaneous reduction of the front knit surface, following the arrows F. A similar result is obtained with the underwear of Figure 26, characterised in the presence of another hole H, already described.
Also in this practical embodiment of Fig. 27, the laces 3, joined or tied cause a lowering in a part of the front elastic welt DB according to the arrow F. Figures 28 and 29 show a lateral and front view of the sock 1 and 1A, provided with free laces 3 and 4, and tied laces 3a and 4a, serving different aesthetic and functions. Lastly, Fig. 30 shows the dress 1 fitted with a lacing on the sides 3, on the lower welt 3a, reproducible according to the invention also on the tubular sleeves S1-S2. Constructive details can vary in equivalent fashion in the form, dimensions and/or position, as well as in the nature of the technical materials and/or fabrics in use, without thereby departing from the scope of the present invention.

Claims

Claims
1. A method for automatically producing tubular knitwear items, which can also be shaped, provided with one or more bows, laces, strings and various appendices, in knitting machines provided with at least a needlebed or dial, comprising the step of producing a first length of tubular knitted fabric having a cylindrical shape and ending with a last stitch course, characterized in that it comprises the step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric protruding from said tubular knitwear item and formed by partial and supplementary knitted courses, said supplementary portion having a first extremity substantially separated from said first length of tubular knitted fabric and a second extremity connected to said last stitch course, said step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric being carried out by automatic and programmed exclusion and subsequent resumption of a predetermined number of needles of the dial from the knit forming process, for a predetermined time interval.
2. A method as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that said step of producing at least a supplementary portion of knitted fabric comprises the following steps: discharging a predetermined portion of said first length of tubular knitted fabric from said predetermined number of needles and producing, preferably with the alternating motion of the cylinder, a supplementary portion of knitted fabric with at least a part of said predetermined number of needles and producing at least a second length of fabric with the needles still engaged to said first length of tubular knitted fabric.
3. A method according to claims 1 or 2, wherein the needles of said predetermined number of needles are adjacent to each other.
4. A method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the needles of said predetermined number of needles are chosen according to a predetermined sequence along the dial.
5. A method according to any of the preceding claims, characterised in that said supplementary portion of knitted fabric is connected to said first length of tubular knitted fabric by alternative floating yarns.
6. A method according to any of the preceding claims, characterised in that it comprises at least a step of producing a third length of tubular knitted fabric by automatic and programmed exclusion and subsequent resumption of at least a part of said predetermined number of needles of the dial in the knit forming process, said third length starting with a first stitch course connected to said second extremity of said supplementary portion of knitted fabric.
7. A method according to claim 6, characterised in that said third length of tubular knitted fabric is also connected to the last stich course of said first length of tubular knitted fabric.
8. A method, preferably according to claim 1, for manufacturing tubular knitwear items, provided with one or more bows, laces, strings and various appendices, formed by partial and supplementary knitted courses, substantially separated from the knit tube, engaged or connected thereto at one side or extremity also of alternative floating yarns; said method being able to co- ordinate the appropriate selection of the needles, in accordance with the jacquard design and with the operating cycle of the knitting machine, also with the aid of the hooks or needles of the dial or other needle bed to allow repeatedly, by defined fabric areas or groups of needles, the total cessation of the production of knitting fabric, followed by the production of new knitted courses or vice versa, only after producing, preferably with the alternating motion of the cylinder, and discharged, the aforementioned partial and supplementary knitted courses or supplementary portion.
9. A method as claimed in claim 8, characterised in that it comprises at least a step for the total or partial transfer of the knitting fabric present, from the needles of the cylinder to the hooks or needles of the dial or other needle bed, followed by one or more knitted courses or waste; a step for the total detachment of the stitches or loops of at least a part of the needles of the cylinder and automatic opening of the related latches; second temporary resumption of the stitch-forming process of a part of the needles of the cylinder with a motion which also be alternating; a step for the total or partial detachment of the knitting fabric thus produced and further automatic opening of the latches of the related needles; third resumption of the stitch-forming process by at least a part of the needles of the cylinder, before the transfer or return of the part of the knit tube from the hooks or needles of the dial or other needle bed, on the needles of the cylinder.
10. A method as claimed in claims 8 or 9, characterised in that it comprises after a suitable waste, a step for the partial discharge or detachment of the loops of a part of the knit tube and automatic opening of the related latches; second temporary resumption of the stitch-forming process of a part of the needles of the cylinder with motion which can also be alternating associated to possible reductions or augmentations; a possible step for the partial discharge of the knitting fabric thus produced and additional automatic opening of the latches of the related needles; third resumption of the stitch-formiήg process preferably with all the needles of the cylinder.
11. A method as claimed in claim 8, 9 or 10 characterised in that it comprises at least a first knitting start with partial and alternating knitted courses, also in double welt, for the production of laces and the like; the partial detachment of the knitting produced by the related needles and opening of the latches thereof; a second knitting start to engage at least an extremity of said laces to the knit tube or knitwear item.
12. A method as claimed in any claim from 8 to 11, characterised in that said laces or bows, single or double, are preferably formed by a plurality of successive and partial knitted courses, variable in amplitude, but lesser than 360°.
13. A method as claimed in claim 12, characterised in that the knitwear items are produced with machines equipped with compound needles, which resume the stitch- forming process without latch openers.
14. A method as claimed in claim 13, characterised in that the discharge of the loops of a part of the needles takes place only progressively in at least a feed without yarn.
15. A method as claimed in claim 14, characterised in that the stitch-forming process of the needles already excluded is preceded by the action of latch opening devices and resumes only progressively with selected needles always in alternating order, in at least a feed provided with yarn.
16. A method as claimed in claim 15, characterised in that the discharge or extraction of the loops of a part of the needles is anticipated by one or more knitted courses, formed also by tuck stitch or miss, can be varied electronically by means of the related motorised cams, preferably with the insertion of at least an additional yarn, which can also be elastomeric or thermo- adhesive.
17. A method as claimed in claim 16, characterised in that the discharge of the loops of a part of the needles takes place by means of the total lowering of the needles without the new yarn, underneath the knit plane of the sinkers, in synchrony with their radial removal.
18. A method as claimed in any claim from 8 to 17, characterised in that one or more time-controlled compressed air jet are provided to direct adequately the knitting fabric inside the cylinder or to open the latches of the needles.
19. A machine for circular knitwear and hosiery in general, for carrying out a method according to claim 1 or 8, characterised in that it comprises at least: a needle bed and/or cylinder rotating, also alternatively, against stationary cams or vice versa; a complete working system or feed provided with one or more movable yarn feeders; the selection of the needles, hooks and other movable parts preferably electronic able to govern the elements concurring in the formation of the knitting fabric according to a work cycle or jacquard design; the stitch-forming cams being adjustable even individually by means of a computer; a device for opening the latches of the needles on command; nozzles for compressed air suitable to thrust the knitting fabric into the cylinder; said machine fitted with a second needle bed or with a dial provided with needles or hooks with butts selectable at multiple heights, in addition to the usual suction and yarn cutting device.
20. A circular machine as claimed in claim 19, characterised in that it is equipped with at least two needle beds with needles or hooks or other movable means, able to transfer a plurality of loops between the needle beds for the production of knitwear items provided also with bows, laces, strings and the like.
21. Knitwear items, obtainable from a method according to any claim from 1 to 18, characterised in that they are produced by temporarily transferring at least a part of the knit tube to the hooks of the dial; a part of the needles discharges the last stitches and after the opening of the latch resumes the formation of knitting fabric shaping at least a bow, lace and the like, subsequently discharged after suitable extraction; said part of needles resumes the formation of stitches after the opening of the latches and before the definitive transfer or return on the same needles of the part of knit tube previously transferred to the hooks of the dial.
22. Knitwear items, obtainable from a method according to any claim from 1 to 18, such as described and produced in accordance with the invention and inferable from the drawings .
23. Tubular knitwear items provided with one or more laces or bows which can also be double and tied.
24. Tubular knitwear items, obtainable from a method according to any claim from 1 to 18, such as bras or panties characterised by the marked reduction in the forward textile surface caused by the presence of laces or bows which can also be tied.
25. Tubular knitwear items according to claim 24 such as bras, panties, stockings and the like characterised by cuffs, belts, elastic bands and the like with undulated welts or with differentiated heights (DB) .
PCT/IT2000/000326 1999-08-24 2000-08-01 A method and apparatus for producing tubular knitwear items provided with one or more laces, bows, strings or the like and resulting products WO2001014622A1 (en)

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IT1999CO000024A ITCO990024A1 (en) 1999-08-24 1999-08-24 METHOD AND EQUIPMENT FOR THE PRODUCTION OF TUBULAR KNITWEAR ARTICLES PROVIDED WITH ONE OR MORE LACES, BOWS, STRINGS OR SIMILAR PRODUCTS AND PRODUCTS
ITCO99A000024 1999-08-24

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001083865A1 (en) * 2000-05-02 2001-11-08 Franco Sciacca Method for producing tubular knitwear items and products obtained thereby
CN105316862A (en) * 2015-11-26 2016-02-10 青岛即发集团股份有限公司 Circular knitting machine and method for producing breathable knitted fabric on circular knitting machine

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0126035B1 (en) * 1983-04-12 1987-06-16 FA - MA S.N.C. di FRULLINI & MASELLI Device for producing knitted pockets with the aid of a circular machine for products manufactured in a tubular way with continuous unidirectional movement, and machine equipped for this device
US5222379A (en) * 1990-03-15 1993-06-29 Nagata Seiki Kabushiki Kaisha Circular knitting machine for knitting body suits and the like

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0126035B1 (en) * 1983-04-12 1987-06-16 FA - MA S.N.C. di FRULLINI & MASELLI Device for producing knitted pockets with the aid of a circular machine for products manufactured in a tubular way with continuous unidirectional movement, and machine equipped for this device
US5222379A (en) * 1990-03-15 1993-06-29 Nagata Seiki Kabushiki Kaisha Circular knitting machine for knitting body suits and the like

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001083865A1 (en) * 2000-05-02 2001-11-08 Franco Sciacca Method for producing tubular knitwear items and products obtained thereby
CN105316862A (en) * 2015-11-26 2016-02-10 青岛即发集团股份有限公司 Circular knitting machine and method for producing breathable knitted fabric on circular knitting machine

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ITCO990024A0 (en) 1999-08-24
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