WO2000044345A1

WO2000044345A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising at least a wax and at least a ceramide compound and methods

Info

Publication number: WO2000044345A1
Application number: PCT/FR2000/000128
Authority: WO
Inventors: Serge Restle; Danièle Cauwet-Martin
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 1999-01-27
Filing date: 2000-01-20
Publication date: 2000-08-03
Also published as: CN1338921A; FR2788689A1; JP2003500337A; AU3057300A; FR2788689B1; PL350299A1; EP1150651A1; CA2360639A1; KR20010089623A; BR0009137A

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous materials, in particular human hair, comprising at least a wax with a melting point ranging between 70 and 85 DEG C and whereof at least 80 % of the carbon chains contain more than 40 carbon atoms and at least a ceramide-type compound. The invention also concerns a treatment method using said composition.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE WAX AND AT LEAST ONE CERAMID-LIKE COMPOUND AND METHODS

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of eratin materials such as the hair, comprising at least one particular wax and at least one compound of ceramide type as well as to the non-therapeutic treatment process using this composition.

In the state of the art, hair formulations are already known which make it possible to treat hair damaged by bad weather or physical hair treatments (brushing, combing ...) or chemical (coloring, permanent ...). Various waxes have already been used for this purpose which have the advantage of improving the cosmetic properties, inter alia the disentangling and softness of damp and dried hair and also of protecting the hair fibers from these attacks. However, these waxes have properties that are still breath-taking and tend, for example, to weigh down the hair and make it dry, during treatment overlays.

Ceramides or glycoceramides are also known which have already been combined with cholesterol esters in order to protect the hair fiber. The application to the hair of the latter compositions or of the ceramides alone, however, leads to insufficient cosmetic performance, both on wet hair and on dried hair.

Furthermore, during mechanical treatments such as brushing, the hair is damaged by the heat of the blow dryer and the passage of the brush through the hair to shape the hair.

Many hairs are thus broken during brushing. We are therefore looking for compositions which make it possible to protect the hair from breakage during these attacks.

However, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that by using compositions containing a particular wax in combination with compounds of Ceramide type, a significant improvement in cosmetic performance was observed both on wet hair and on dry hair.

The Applicant has found in particular that the combination has a synergistic effect which is not simply the addition of the properties of the two components.

In particular, a very good protective effect against hair breakage was obtained during brushing, greater than that obtained either with the wax alone or with the compound of the ceramide type alone.

The disentangling properties (= ease of combing) are also superior to those of a composition containing only the compound of ceramide type or that wax.

This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular the hair, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one wax having a melting point of between 70 and 85 °. C and of which at least 80% of the carbon chains have more than 40 carbon atoms and at least one compound of the ceramide type.

Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition defined above to protect keratin materials, in particular the hair, from physical or chemical attack and in particular with regard to brushing.

These compositions also make it possible to improve the cosmetic properties, in particular the softness and straightening of the hair.

According to the present invention, the term “ceramide-type compound” means ceramides and / or glycoceramides and / or pseudoceramides and / or neoceramides, natural or synthetic. Ceramide-type compounds are described for example in patent applications DE4424530, DE4424533, DE4402929, DE4420736, WO95 / 23807, WO94 / 07844, EP-A-0646572, WO95 / 16665, FR-2 673 179, EP-A- 0227994 and WO 94/07844, WO94 / 24097, WO94 / 10131, the teachings of which are included here for reference.

The ceramide-type compounds which can be used according to the present invention preferably correspond to the general formula (I):

in which :

- R- _| means:

- or a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C-1-C50, preferably in C5-C50, this radical possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified by an acid R7COOH, R7 being a radical hydrocarbon, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, in C1-C35, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls of the radical R7 can be esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, in C- 1-C35; - or a radical R "- (NR-CO) -R ', R denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C1-C20 mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated, R' and R" are hydrocarbon radicals whose sum of carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R 'being a divalent radical.

- or a radical R-O-CO- (CH2) p, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical in C-1-C20 P t ^are an integer ranging from 1 to 12.

- R2 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a saccharide-type radical, in particular a (glycosyl) _n , (galactosyl) _m or sulfogalactosyl radical, a sulfate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and a radical phosphorylethylammonium, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;

- R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C-1-C33 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxyl or not, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls which can be esterified by a mineral acid or an acid R7COOH, R7 having the same meanings as ci above, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls which can be etherified by a (glycosyl) _n , (galactosyl) _m sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, R3 can also be substituted by one or more C alk alkyl radicals _| -C- _| 4; preferably, R3 denotes a C-15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C- α-hydroxy acid _| g-C3o;

- R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl radical, a C3-C5Q hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxyl or a -CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-R5 radical in which Rβ denotes a Cιn-C-26 hydrocarbon radical ^{or a rad} ' ^ca ' R8-0-CO- (CH2) _p , Rg denotes a Cι-C20 hydrocarbon radical _> P is an integer varying from 1 to 12,

- R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C-1-C30 hydrocarbon radical, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, the hydroxyl (s) possibly being etherified by a (glycosyl) _n , (galactosyl) radical _{m ]} sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium,

provided that when R3 and R5 denote hydrogen or when R3 denotes hydrogen and R5 denotes methyl then R4 does not denote a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical.

Among the compounds of formula (I), ceramides and / or glycoceramides are preferred, the structure of which is described by DOWNING in Journal of Lipid Research Vol. 35, 2060-2068, 1994, or those described in French patent application FR-2 673 179, the teachings of which are included here for reference. The compounds of ceramide type more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) for which R- _j denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C14-C22 fatty acids optionally hydroxylated; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R3 denotes a linear radical in C-) 1.-17 optionally hydroxyl and preferably in Ci 3. 5.

Such compounds are for example:

- 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1, 3-diol, - 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N- [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] -amino-octadecane-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine,

- 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1, 3-diol or mixtures of these compounds.

It is also possible to use specific mixtures such as for example mixtures of ceramide (s) 2 and ceramide (s) 5 according to the classification of DOWNING.

It is also possible to use the compounds of formula (I) for which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C 2 -C 22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3 denotes a hydrocarbon radical in C-12-C22 ^'saturated ® ^or' ^{nsatuι "é} ^and preferably a -CH = CH- (CH2) i2-Ce H3.

By way of example, mention may be made of the product consisting of a mixture of glycoceramides, sold under the trade name GLYCOCER by the company WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES.

It is also possible to use the compounds of formula (I) described in patent applications EP-A-0227994; EP-A-0 647 617, EP-A-0 736 522 and WO 94/07844. Such compounds are for example QUESTAMIDE H (bis- (N-hydroxyethyl N-ketyl) malonamide) sold by the company QUEST, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-ketyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide d cetylic acid.

It is also possible to use the N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine described in patent application WO94 / 24097.

The concentration of ceramide-type compounds can vary between 0.0001% and 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.001 and 10% approximately and even more preferably between 0.005 and 3% by weight.

The waxes which can be used according to the invention preferably have at least 80% by weight of carbon chains comprising from 40 to 65 carbon atoms and preferably more than 95% by weight.

Waxes meeting these characteristics are in particular sunflower wax, in particular hydrogenated sunflower wax sold by the Soetenaey Laboratory, the melting point of which is approximately 77 ° C. (measured in the KOFLER block), the drop point is d 'about 70 ° C and which contains more than 95% by weight of carbon chains having 40 to 65 carbon atoms.

The wax concentration according to the invention can vary between 0.0001% and 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.001 and 10% approximately and even more preferably between 0.005 and 3% by weight .

The compositions of the invention also advantageously contain at least one surfactant which is generally present in an amount of between 0.1% and 60% by weight approximately, preferably between 3% and 40% and even more preferably between 5% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

This surfactant can be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof. The surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:

(i) Anionic surfactant (s): Their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a truly critical nature.

Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or in mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkylsulphates, alkylethersulphates, alkylamidoethersulphates, alkylarylpolyethersulphates, monoglycerides sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl etherphosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl-lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₂ ) alkyl ether acids, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) aryl ether carboxylic acids. polyoxyalkylenated, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl amido ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulfates and of alkyl ether sulfates and their mixtures.

(ii) Nonionic surfactant (s): The nonionic surfactants are also compounds well known per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature. Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups which may range in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups which may range in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene, condensates of ethylene and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1, 5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as amino (CQ - C 4) alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which fall particularly well within the scope of the present invention.

(iii) Amphoteric surfactant (s): The amphoteric surfactants, the nature of which is not critical in the context of the present invention, can in particular be (non-limiting list) derivatives of secondary or tertiary amines aliphatics, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C, -C ₆ ) betaines or (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl amidoalkyl (CC ₆₎ ) sulfobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in patents US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and of structures: R ₂ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (R ₃ ) (R ₄ ) (CH ₂ COO-) (2) in which: R ₂ denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R ₂ -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R ₃ denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R ₄ denotes a carboxymethyl group; and R ₅ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C) (3) in which:

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX ', C represents - (CH ₂ ) _Z -Y, with z = 1 or 2, X' denotes the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH or a hydrogen atom Y denotes -COOH or the radical -CH ₂ - CHOH - SO3H R ₅ denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R ₉ -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular C ₇ , C ₉ , C „or C ₁₃ , a C ₁₇ alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate,

Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Coco- amphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid,

Cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by the company RHONE

POULENC.

In the compositions in accordance with the invention, mixtures of surfactants and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric or nonionic surfactants are preferably used. A particularly preferred mixture is a mixture consisting of at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.

Preferably an anionic surfactant is used selected from alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₁₄₎ alkyl sulphates of sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₁₄₎ alkyl ether sulfates of sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium oxyethylenated with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoyl isethionate and alphaolefin (C ₁₄ -Cι ₆ ) sodium sulfonate and their mixture with: - or an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives called disodiumcocoamphodipropionate or sodiumcocoamphopropionate sold in particular by the company RHONE POULENC under the trade name "MIF ANOL C2M CONC" in aqueous solution at 38% of active material or under the name MIRANOL C32;

- Or an amphoteric surfactant of zwitterionic type such as alkylbetaines in particular cocobetaine sold under the name "DEHYTON AB 30" in aqueous solution at 32% of MA by the company HENKEL.

It is also possible to use cationic surfactants among which there may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammoniurn, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of a cationic nature.

The composition of the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen from thickeners, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, sun filters, anionic or nonionic or cationic or amphoteric polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates. , fatty acids with linear or branched C _1S -C ₄₀ chains such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention.

These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which can range from 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise quantity of each additive is easily determined by the skilled person according to its nature and its function.

The cosmetically acceptable medium can consist solely of water or of a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent such as monoalcohols, polyalcohols, glycol ethers and their mixture. Monoalcohols are in particular chosen from CC ₄ lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers and their mixture.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 50 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the compositions is generally between 2 and 12 and preferably between 4 and 9. The adjustment of the pH to the desired value can be carried out conventionally by adding a base (organic or inorganic) in the composition, for example of ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly) amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or propane-1, 3, or alternatively by addition of a mineral or organic acid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as for example citric acid.

The compositions according to the invention can be more particularly used for washing or treating keratin materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly the hair.

In particular, the compositions according to the invention are detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and bubble baths. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a washing base, generally aqueous.

The surfactant (s) forming the washing base can be chosen either, alone or as a mixture, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic surfactants as defined above.

The quantity and quality of the washing base are those sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power. Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.

The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as the skin or the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined above, then in optionally rinsing with the water.

Thus, this method according to the invention allows the hairstyle to be maintained, the treatment, the care or the washing or the make-up removal of the skin, the hair or any other keratin material.

The compositions of the invention can also be in the form of conditioner to rinse off or not, of compositions for perm, straightening, coloring or discoloration, or also in the form of compositions to rinse, to be applied before or after coloring, discoloration, perm or straightening or between the two stages of a perm or straightening.

The compositions according to the invention can be used as leave-in products, in particular for maintaining the hairstyle, shaping or styling the hair.

They are more particularly styling lotions, brushing lotions, fixing compositions (lacquers) and styling.

The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of washing compositions for the skin, and in particular in the form of solutions or gels for the bath or shower or of make-up removing products.

The compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotions for the care of the skin and / or the hair. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a gel, milk, cream, lotion, stick, emulsion, thickened lotion or foam and can be used for the skin, nails, eyelashes, the lips and more particularly the hair.

The compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump-dispenser bottles or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for the treatment of hair.

When the composition according to the invention is packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain an aerosol lacquer or foam, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane , isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, compressed air and mixtures thereof can also be used as the propellant.

In everything which follows or what precedes, the percentages expressed are by weight.

The invention will now be more fully illustrated with the aid of the following examples which should not be considered as limiting it to the embodiments described.

In the examples, MA means active material.

EXAMPLE 1

The following 4 brushing compositions were prepared:

1 g of composition is applied to locks (2.7 g) of hair previously washed and towel-dried. Leave to stand for 5 minutes, comb the locks and then rinse them with water.

Sliding strand by strand on damp hair

A movable wick, fixed on a sliding bench, is driven in a horizontal rectilinear movement between two other fixed wicks. The force to be applied to slide the wick is measured using an electronic gauge connected to the drive arm. The lower the sliding force, the better the cosmetic properties.

The results are collated in the table below:

The sliding force of composition 1 according to the invention is much lower than that of compositions 2,3 and 4. The composition containing both ceramide and sunflower wax therefore has better cosmetic properties than those containing only one of the two compounds.

Brushing test:

Brushing is carried out using a brush and a hair dryer. Brushing is carried out by passing the brush from root to tip. Broken hair is carefully collected on the brush using a comb, then it is weighed. The mass of hair recovered for a lock is reduced to the mass of hair recovered for one gram of starting hair.

The mass of hair recovered was compared for each of the compositions 1 to 4. The higher the mass of broken hair, the less the composition protects the hair.

The results are collated in the table below:

It is noted that the mass of hair recovered on the brush after brushing is significantly reduced (- 28%) for the composition according to the invention 1 containing both ceramide and sunflower wax.

EXAMPLE 2

The following shampoo composition was prepared:

Lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide in aqueous solution at 70% MA 15 g MA

Cocoyl betaine at 30% MA 2.5 g MA

Quaternized guar gum

(Jaguar C 13S from RHODIA CHEMISTRY) 0.05 g PDMS with viscosity 300,000 cSt 2.7 g

Cetyl ether of hydroxy 2 cetyl 2.5 g stearyl / cetyl alcohol

Copra acid monoisopropanilamide 1 g

Hydrogenated sunflower wax (SOETENAEY Laboratory) 0.5 g

N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine 0.01 g

Conservative qs

Perfume qs

Water qs 100g

Hair treated with this composition has very good cosmetic properties.

EXAMPLE 3

A rinse-off conditioner of the following composition was prepared

Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight) 5 g Mixture of myristate, palmitate, myristyl stearate, cetyl and stearyl 1 g

Behenyltrimethyl ammonium chloride at 80% MA (GENAMIN KDMP from CLARIANT) 3.2 gMA Polydimethyl siloxane with groups 1.05 gMA amino ethyl iminopropyl in cationic emulsion (35% MA in water) Glycerin 3 g

Hydrogenated sunflower wax 0.5 g N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine 0.1 g

Conservative qs

Perfume qs Eau qs 100 g

EXAMPLE 4

A rinse-off conditioner of the following composition was prepared

N- (2 hydroxy-hexadecanoyl) -2-amino octadecane 1, 3 diol 0.1 g

Hydrogenated sunflower wax 0.4 g

Behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride 80% MA (GENAMIN KDMP from CLARIANT) 1.6 gMA Water qs 100 g

EXAMPLE 5

A rinse-off conditioner of the following composition was prepared Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50 by weight) 6 g

Behenyltrimethyl ammonium chloride at 80% MA (GENAMIN KDMP from CLARIANT) 4 gMA

Polydimethyl siloxane with 0.7 gMA amino ethyl iminopropyl groups in cationic emulsion (35% MA in water)

Glycerin 3 g

Hydrogenated sunflower wax 2 g

N oleoyldihydrosphingosine 0.1 g Preservatives qs

Water qs 100 g

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one wax having a melting point of between 70 and 85 ° C and of which at least 80% of the carbon chains have more than 40 carbon atoms and at least one compound of ceramide type.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound corresponds to the general formula (I):

in which :

- R denotes:

- Or a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C -C 0, preferably C5-C5Q, this radical may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified with an acid R7COOH, R7 being a hydrocarbon radical , saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, C -C35, the hydroxyl (s) of the radical R7 can be esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, C1-C35 ; - or a radical R "- (NR-CO) -R ', R denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C1-C20 mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated, R' and R" are hydrocarbon radicals whose sum of carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R 'being a divalent radical.

- Or an Rs-O-CO- (CH2) p radical, Rg denotes a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical. P is an integer varying from 1 to 12.

- R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C33 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxyl or not, the hydroxyl or hydroxyls which can be esterified by a mineral acid or an acid R7COOH, R7 having the same meanings as above , the hydroxyl or hydroxyls which can be etherified by a (glycosyl) _n , (galactosyl) _m sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, R3 can also be substituted by one or more C 1 -C 14 alkyl radicals; preferably, R3 denotes a C 5 -C 26 α-hydroxyalkyl radical. the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C15-C30 α-hydroxy acid;

- R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl radical, a C3-C50 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxyl or a -CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-R6 radical in which R5 denotes a C-10-C26 hydrocarbon radical or an Rs-O-CO- (CH2) p radical, Rβ denotes a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical. P is an integer varying from 1 to 12,

- R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C -C30 hydrocarbon radical, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, the hydroxyl (s) being able to be etherified by a (glycosyl) _n , (galactosyl) _m sulfogalactosyl radical, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium,

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound is chosen from the group consisting of: - 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1, 3-dioi,

- 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1, 3-diol, - 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N- [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] -amino-octadecane-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1, 3,4 triol,

- 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1, 3-diol, or mixtures of these compounds.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound is chosen from bis- (N-hydroxyethyl N-ketyl) malonamide, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) cetylic acid amide) and N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound or compounds are present in concentrations ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight and more preferably between 0.005 and 3% by weight.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said wax contains at least 80% of carbon chains comprising from 40 to 65 carbon atoms.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said wax is present in concentrations ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight and more preferably between 0.005 and 3% by weight

8- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants and their mixtures.

9- Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the surfactant (s) are present at a concentration of between 0.1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 3% and 40% by weight, and even more preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable medium consists of water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent.

11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable solvents are chosen from the group consisting of monoalcohols, polyalcohols, glycol ethers, and their mixtures.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a gel, milk, lotion, stick, cream, dispersion, thickened lotion or foam.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a styling product, for maintaining the hairstyle, or for shaping.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is packaged in the form of a spray bottle, pump bottle or else in an aerosol container in order to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam.

15- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additive chosen from thickeners, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, sun filters, anionic polymers or nonionic or cationic or amphoteric, proteins, protein hydrolysates, fatty acids with straight or branched C ₁₆ -C ₄₀ chains such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, and fatty esters.

16- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it is in the form of shampoo, conditioner, composition for perming, straightening, coloring or bleaching of hair , of rinse-off composition to be applied between the two stages of a perm or of a straightening, of a cleansing composition for the skin.

17- Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 for washing keratin materials such as the hair.

18. A method of treating keratin materials, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 16, then in optionally rinsing with water.

19. Use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 16 for protecting keratin materials, in particular the hair, from physical or chemical attack.

20. Use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 16 to protect the hair during brushing.