USH2013H1

USH2013H1 - Skin care compositions

Info

Publication number: USH2013H1
Application number: US08/863,089
Authority: US
Inventors: Roberta Atwood Boyd; George Endel Deckner; James Pedrosa SaNogueira, Jr.; Joseph Michael Zukowski
Original assignee: Procter and Gamble Co
Current assignee: Procter and Gamble Co
Priority date: 1997-05-23
Filing date: 1997-05-23
Publication date: 2002-02-05
Also published as: JP2001525849A; WO1998052529A1; AU7074798A

Abstract

Disclosed are topical compositions providing a high level of hydration and which comprise a vitamin B₃compound and a conditioning component for regulating the condition of skin.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to topical compositions providing a high level of hydration and which comprise a vitamin B₃compound for regulating the condition of skin.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Many personal care products currently available to consumers are directed primarily to improving the health and/or physical appearance of the skin. Among these skin care products, many are directed to delaying, minimizing or even eliminating skin wrinkling and other histological changes typically associated with the aging of skin or environmental damage to human skin.

Skin is subject to insults by many extrinsic and intrinsic factors. Extrinsic factors include ultraviolet radiation (e.g., from sun exposure), environmental pollution, wind, heat, low humidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, and the like. Intrinsic factors include chronological aging and other biochemical changes from within the skin. Whether extrinsic or intrinsic, these factors result in visible signs of skin aging and environmental damage, such as wrinkling and other forms of roughness (including increased pore size, flaking and skin lines), and other histological changes associated with skin aging or damage. To many people, skin wrinkles are a reminder of the disappearance of youth. As a result, the elimination of wrinkles has become a booming business in youth-conscious societies. Treatments range from cosmetic creams and moisturizers to various forms of cosmetic surgery.

Extrinsic or intrinsic factors may result in the thinning and general degradation of the skin. For example, as the skin naturally ages, there is a reduction in the cells and blood vessels that supply the skin. There is also a flattening of the dermal-epidermal junction which results in weaker mechanical resistance of this junction. See, for example, Oikarinen, “The Aging of Skin: Chronoaging Versus Photoaging,” Photodermatol. Photoimmunol. Photomed., vol. 7, pp. 3-4, 1990, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.

Vitamin B₃compounds, particularly niacinamide, have, recently, been found to provide measurable skin regulating benefits. For example, topical niacinamide helps to regulate the signs of skin aging, i.e., reduce or efface the visibility of the fine lines, wrinkles, and other forms of uneven or rough surface texture associated with aged or photodamaged skin. These compounds have also been found useful in reducing the overall oiliness of skin.

In formulating products containing vitamin B₃compounds, much attention is directed toward providing compositions which deliver and retain optimal concentrations of the vitamin B₃compounds in the stratum corneum with minimum absorption into the systemic circulation. Furthermore, promoting user compliance with respect to chronic treatment regimens is also important. Current vitamin B₃formulations, however, can be drying and irritating. Such formulations may cause individuals to refrain from using vitamin B₃products as frequently and copiously as is necessary for optimum benefit. Thus, user compliance with current vitamin B₃formulations is less than ideal.

It has now been found that compositions containing natural or synthetic vitamin B₃compounds along with conditioning components providing a select level of hydration, deliver skin regulating and surface oil benefits of vitamin B₃compounds without the attendant dryness or irritation. These compositions have improved user acceptance and, thus, promote better user compliance with a concomitant overall improvement in skin regulating benefit.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide topical compositions for prophylactically and/or therapeutically regulating mammalian skin condition (especially of human skin, more especially facial skin) which are gentler and less irritating and drying to the skin, containing a vitamin B₃compound, especially niacinamide.

It is another object of the present invention to provide topical compositions for prophylactically and/or therapeutically regulating signs of mammalian skin aging with reduced irritation and drying, containing a vitamin B₃compound, especially niacinamide.

It is another object of the present invention to provide topical compositions for prophylactically and/or therapeutically regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in mammalian skin texture, including fine lines, wrinkles, enlarged pores, roughness and other skin texture discontinuities associated with aged skin with reduced irritation and dryness, containing a vitamin B₃compound, especially niacinamide.

Other objects of the present invention are to provide such topical compositions further comprising a retinoid.

The present invention also relates to methods of providing such regulation using the subject compositions.

These and other objects of this invention will become apparent in light of the following disclosure.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to compositions comprising:

a.) from about 0.01% to about 50% by weight of a vitamin B₃compound;

b.) from about 1% to about 99% of a conditioning component having a Hydration Factor of greater than about 0.

It has been found that the compositions of the present invention regulate the signs of skin aging, especially regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in mammalian skin texture, including discontinuities associated with aged skin, involving the topical application of such compositions. The present invention relates to both prophylactic and therapeutic regulation of skin condition.

In preferred embodiments, the vitamin B₃compound is substantially free of the salt form and is uncomplexed. The vitamin B₃compound is preferably niacinamide.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition and all measurements made are at 25° C., unless otherwise designated.

The compositions of the present invention can comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of, the essential as well as optional ingredients and components described herein. As used herein, “consisting essentially of” means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods.

All publications cited herein are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety.

The term “topical application”, as used herein, means to apply or spread the compositions of the present invention onto the surface of the skin.

The term “dermatologically-acceptable,” as used herein, means that the compositions or components thereof so described are suitable for use in contact with human skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.

The term “safe and effective amount” as used herein means an amount of a compound or composition sufficient to significantly induce a positive benefit, preferably a positive skin appearance or feel benefit, including independently the benefits disclosed herein, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to risk ratio, within the scope of sound judgment of the skilled artisan.

The compositions of the present invention are useful for topical application and for regulating skin condition, including visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin (especially the skin surface; such discontinuities are generally undesired ). Such discontinuities may be induced or caused by internal and/or external factors, and include the signs of skin aging described herein. “Regulating skin condition” includes prophylactically regulating and/or therapeutically regulating skin condition, including visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin. As used herein, prophylactically regulating skin condition includes delaying, minimizing and/or preventing visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin. As used herein, therapeutically regulating skin condition includes ameliorating, e.g., diminishing, minimizing and/or effacing, discontinuities in skin. Regulating skin condition involves improving skin appearance and/or feel.

The compositions of the present invention are useful for regulating signs of skin aging, more especially visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin texture associated with aging. “Regulating the signs of skin aging” includes prophylactically regulating and/or therapeutically regulating one or more of such signs (similarly, regulating a given sign of skin aging, e.g., lines, wrinkles or pores, includes prophylactically regulating and/or therapeutically regulating that sign). As used herein, prophylactically regulating such signs includes delaying, minimizing and/or preventing signs of skin aging. As used herein, therapeutically regulating such signs includes ameliorating, e.g., diminishing, minimizing and/or effacing signs of skin aging.

“Signs of skin aging” include, but are not limited to, all outward visibly and tactilely perceptible manifestations as well as any other macro or micro effects due to skin aging. Such signs may be induced or caused by intrinsic factors or extrinsic factors, e.g., chronological aging and/or environmental damage. These signs may result from processes which include, but are not limited to, the development of textural discontinuities such as wrinkles, including both fine superficial wrinkles and coarse deep wrinkles, skin lines, crevices, bumps, large pores (e.g., associated with adnexal structures such as sweat gland ducts, sebaceous glands, or hair follicles), scaliness, flakiness and/or other forms of skin unevenness or roughness, loss of skin elasticity (loss and/or inactivation of functional skin elastin), sagging (including puffiness in the eye area and jowls), loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tightness, loss of skin recoil from deformation, discoloration (including undereye circles), blotching, sallowness, hyperpigmented skin regions such as age spots and freckles, keratoses, abnormal differentiation, hyperkeratinization, elastosis, collagen breakdown, and other histological changes in the stratum comeum, dermis, epidermis, the skin vascular system (e.g., telangiectasia or spider vessels), and underlying tissues, especially those proximate to the skin.

It is to be understood that the present invention is not to be limited to regulation of the above mentioned “signs of skin aging” which arise due to mechanisms associated with skin aging, but is intended to include regulation of said signs irrespective of the mechanism of origin. As used herein, “regulating skin condition” is intended to include regulation of such signs irrespective of the mechanism of origin.

The present invention is especially useful for therapeutically regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in mammalian skin texture, including texture discontinuities related to skin aging while reducing the irritation and dryness associated with such treatments. As used herein, therapeutically regulating such discontinuities includes ameliorating, e.g., diminishing, minimizing and/or effacing visible and/or tactile discontinuities in the texture of mammalian skin, to thereby provide improved skin appearance and/or feel, e.g., a smoother, more even appearance and/or feel. Such visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin texture include crevices, bumps, pores, fine lines, wrinkles, scales, flakes and/or other forms of textural unevenness or roughness associated with skin aging. For example, the length, depth, and/or other dimension of lines and/or wrinkles are decreased, the apparent diameter of pores decreases, or the apparent height of tissue immediately proximate to pore openings approaches that of the interadnexal skin.

The present invention is also especially useful for prophylactically regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in mammalian skin texture, including texture discontinuities associated with skin aging. As used herein, prophylactically regulating such discontinuities includes delaying, minimizing and/or preventing visible and/or tactile discontinuities in the texture of mammalian skin, to thereby provide improved skin appearance and/or feel, e.g., a smoother, more even appearance and/or feel.

The compositions of the present invention are also useful for promoting exfoliation of the skin. Without intending to be bound or limited by theory, it is believed that the compositions containing the vitamin B₃compound, particularly niacinamide, strengthen the energy state of cells regulating exfoliation, resulting in normalization of epidermal differentiation and keratinization.

Vitamin B₃component

The compositions of the present invention comprise a safe and effective amount of a natural or synthetic vitamin B₃compound. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, and still more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 5%, of the vitamin B₃compound.

As used herein, “vitamin B₃compound” means a compound having the formula:

wherein R is —CONH₂(i.e., niacinamide),—COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or —CH₂OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.

Exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B₃compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.

Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include nicotinic acid esters of C₁-C₂₂, preferably C₁-C₁₆, more preferably C₁-C₆alcohols. The alcohols are suitably straight-chain or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. The esters are preferably non-rubicient. As used herein, “non-rubicient” means that the ester does not commonly yield a visible flushing response after application to the skin in the subject compositions (the majority of the general population would not experience a visible flushing response, although such compounds may cause vasodilation not visible to the naked eye). Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; tocopherol nicotinate is preferred.

Other derivatives of the vitamin B₃compound are derivatives of niacinamide resulting from substitution of one or more of the amide group hydrogens. Nonlimiting examples of derivatives of niacinamide useful herein include nicotinyl amino acids, derived, for example, from the reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (e.g., nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid, and nicotinyl alcohol esters of organic carboxylic acids (e.g., C1-C18). Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid and nicotinyl hydroxamic acid which have the following chemical structures:

nicotinuric acid:

nicotinyl hydroxamic acid:

Exemplary nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters of the carboxylic acids salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid and the like. Other non-limiting examples of vitamin B₃compounds useful herein are 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, n-methyl-nicotinamide, n,n-diethylnicotinamide, n-(hydroxymethyl)-nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methyl isonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 1-(3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, and niaprazine.

Examples of the above vitamin B₃compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, Mo.); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, Calif.) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wis.).

One or more vitamin B₃compounds may be used herein. Preferred vitamin B₃compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred.

When used, salts, derivatives, and salt derivatives of niacinamide are preferably those having substantially the same efficacy as niacinamide in the methods of regulating skin condition described herein.

Salts of the vitamin B₃compound are also useful herein. Nonlimiting examples of salts of the vitamin B₃compound useful herein include organic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with anionic inorganic species (e.g., chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), and organic carboxylic acid salts (including mono-, di- and tri- C1-C18 carboxylic acid salts, e.g., acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferably monocarboxylic acid salts such as acetate). These and other salts of the vitamin B₃compound can be readily prepared by the skilled artisan, for example, as described by W. Wenner, “The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-Iosascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide”, J. Organic Chemistry, VOL. 14, 22-26 (1949), which is incorporated herein by reference. Wenner describes the synthesis of the ascorbic acid salt of niacinamide.

In a preferred embodiment, the ring nitrogen of the vitamin B₃compound is substantially chemically free (e.g., unbound and/or unhindered), or after delivery to the skin becomes substantially chemically free (“chemically free” is hereinafter alternatively referred to as “uncomplexed”). More preferably, the vitamin B₃compound is essentially uncomplexed. Therefore, if the composition contains the vitamin B₃compound in a salt or otherwise complexed form, such complex is preferably substantially reversible, more preferably essentially reversible, upon delivery of the composition to the skin. For example, such complex should be substantially reversible at a pH of from about 5.0 to about 6.0. Such reversibility can be readily determined by one having ordinary skill in the art.

More preferably the vitamin B₃compound is substantially uncomplexed in the composition prior to delivery to the skin. Exemplary approaches to minimizing or preventing the formation of undesirable complexes include omission of materials which form substantially irreversible or other complexes with the vitamin B₃compound, pH adjustment, ionic strength adjustment, the use of surfactants, and formulating wherein the vitamin B₃compound and materials which complex therewith are in different phases. Such approaches are well within the level of ordinary skill in the art.

Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B₃compound contains a limited amount of the salt form and is more preferably substantially free of salts of a vitamin B₃compound. Preferably the vitamin B₃compound contains less than about 50% of such salt, and is more preferably essentially free of the salt form. The vitamin B₃compound in the compositions hereof having a pH of from about 4 to about 7 typically contain less than about 50% of the salt form.

The vitamin B₃compound may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources. The vitamin B₃compound is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure.

Conditioning Component

Another essential component of the present invention is the conditioning component. The conditioning component is preferably selected from the group consisting of emollients and humectants and mixtures thereof. The conditioning agent is present at a level of from about 1% to about 99%, preferably from about 1% to about 50%, more preferably from about 2% to about 30% and most preferably from about 5% to about 25%.

A variety of emollients may be employed to yield the conditioning component of the present invention. These emollients may be selected from one or more of the following classes: Triglyceride esters which include, but are not limited to, vegetable and animal fats and oils such as castor oil, cocoa butter, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil, sesame oil, squalene, kikui oil and soybean oil; acetoglyceride esters, such as acetylated monoglycerides; alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms which include, but are not limited to, methyl, isopropyl, and butyl esters of fatty acids such as hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyloleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl adipate, diisohexyl adipate, dihexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, and cetyl lactate; alkenyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate; fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic, and erucic acids; fatty alcohols having 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, hexadecyl, stearyl, isostearyl, hydroxystearyl, oleyl, ricinoleyl, behenyl, erucyl, and 2-octyl dodecanyl alcohols; fatty alcohol ethers such as propoxylated fatty alcohols of 10 to 20 carbon atoms which include, but are not limited to, lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, and cholesterol alcohols, having attached thereto from 1 to 50 propylene oxide groups; lanolin and lanolin derivatives such as lanolin, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohols, lanolin fatty acids, isopropyl lanolate, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated lanolin alcohols, ethoxylated cholesterol, propoxylated lanolin alcohols, acetylated lanolin alcohols, lanolin alcohols linoleate, lanolin alcohols ricinoleate, acetate of lanolin alcohols ricinoleate, acetate of ethoxylated alcohols-esters, bydrogenolysis of lanolin, ethoxylated sorbitol lanolin, and liquid and semisolid lanolin absorption bases; polyhydric alcohol esters such as ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono-and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol polyfatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,2-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,2-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters; Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate; forming a mixture of ether esters; Vegetable waxes including, but not limited to, carnauba and candelilla waxes; and cholesterol fatty acid esters. Also useful are the propoxylated glycerols described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,976,953, which is description is incorporated herein by reference.

Other useful emollients include various C₁-C₃₀monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters can be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, the glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), the mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, the galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, the arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, the sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoletate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitoleate and arachidate in a 1:2 molar ratio; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a 1:3 molar ratio; the heptaester of maltose wherein the esterifing carboxylic acid moieties are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a 3:4 molar ratio; the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2:6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifing carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1:3:4 molar ratio. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C18 mono- and/or di-unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturates:behenic of 1:7 to 3:5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is the octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule. The ester materials are further described in, U.S. Pat. No. 2,831,854, U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977; U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,195, to Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977, U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,516, to Letton et al., issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,515, to Letton et al., issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 5,305,514, to Letton et al., issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 4,797,300, to Jandacek et al., issued Jan. 10, 1989; U.S. Pat. No. 3,963,699, to Rizzi et al, issued Jun. 15, 1976; U.S. Pat. No. 4,518,772, to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,517,360, to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; all of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety. The emollient is, preferably, present at a concentration of from about 1% to about 20%, more preferably at from about 1% to about 10%.

Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol-type may also be included as part of the conditioning component of this invention. Typical polyhydric alcohols include polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, erythritol, threitol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, glucitol, mannitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol, sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate,soluble collagen, gelatin and mixtures thereof. The humectant is, preferably, present at a concentration of from about 1% to about 20%, and more preferably at from about 1% to about 10% where the ratio of emollient to humectant is from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:2.

Also useful herein are guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolate salts (e.g. ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); lactic acid and lactate salts (e.g. ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); aloe vera in any of its variety of forms (e.g., aloe vera gel); sugar and starch derivatives (e.g., alkoxylated glucose); hyaluronic acid; lactamide monoethanolamine; acetamide monoethanolamine; and mixtures thereof.

Skin Moisturizer Hydration Test

Conditioning components useful to the present invention have a Hydration Factor of greater than about zero as measured by the Skin Moisturizer Hydration Test.

The Skin Moisturizer Hydration Test evaluates and compares the, in-vivo, hydration efficacy of topical compositions. The test method utilizes a Courage and Khazaka Corneometer 820 PC to measure the electrical capacitance of the skin surface. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the electrical capacitance of the skin surface is an indirect measurement of water presence and therefore skin surface hydration.

The Skin Moisturizer Hydration Test is determined using at least 16 subjects in general good health (free of medical conditions, adverse reations or sensitivities which might affect the skin test results). In general, the products to be tested are applied to the forearms of each subject, in an area not having excessive amounts of hair, dermatitis or scars. More specifically, at least two, 3×4 cm², test regions are identified on the volar region of the of the same forearm. The vitamin B₃containing product is applied to one test region (3 μl /cm²) and a reference (or control) composition is applied to the other test region (3 μl/cm²). An oil-in-water emulsion providing a specific level of hydration and having the following formulation is used as the reference composition:


	Ingredient (CFTA Name)	Weight %

PHASE A:	Water U.S.P.	78.96
	Disodium EDTA	0.15
	Glycerin	5
PHASE B:	Cetyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose	0.15
	Methyl Paraben	0.25
PHASE C:	Cetyl Alcohol	0.5
	Stearyl Alcohol	0.5
	Behenyl Alcohol	0.5
	Cetyl ricinoleate	3
	Steareth-2 (Brij 72)	1.05
	Distearyldimonium chloride (Varisoft TA-100)	0.25
	Propyl Paraben	0.10
	Myristyl myristate	1.5
	Caprylic/Capritryglycerides	1.5
	Mineral oil	2
	Fatty acid ester of sugar	1
	Polypropylene glycol-15 stearyl ether	1.05
	(Arlamol E)
PHASE D:	dimethicone 10 cst (Dow Corning)	2
PHASE E:	Benzyl Alcohol	0.5
PHASE F:	50% NaOH	0.04

Blend the A phase components with a suitable mixer (e.g., Tekmar model RW20DZM), heating while stirring to a temperature of about 70-80° C. Add the cetyl hyroxy ethyl cellulose and methyl paraben with mixing at about 70-80° C. to melt the components. Separately, blend the C phase components and mill to obtain an acceptably smooth mixture (e.g., using a Tekmar T50 Mill).

Add the C phase mixture to the above mixture and mix. Remove the combination from the bath, with continued stirring, once the temperature reaches about 45° C. Add the dimethicone and mix.

Add and mix in the benzyl alcohol, then the NaOH. Adjust the pH as necessary to 7.

Test Method: Both the vitamin B₃containing product and the reference composition are spread on the test region in a circular motion. Rubbing should be done using a cotted finger and should be performed until the product has blended into the skin completely. Electrical capacitance values are taken with the corneometer at baseline (before product application) and then 3 hours after product application. The Corneometer probe should be wiped clean before each test site reading using a non-linting material such as a Kimwipe and zeroed against a dry clean surface to test the integrity of the system.

For each subject, hydration measurements on treated sites will be baseline subtracted. A multi-factor analysis of variance using Fischer's least significant difference analysis should be applied to compare data between products.

A comparatively higher Corneometer reading indicates higher skin surface capacitance and therefore higher skin surface water content or hydration. The difference between the corneometer values of reference composition and the test formulation is the hydration factor and is illustrated by the following formula:

Hydration Factor=(“Measurement Unit”_{test formulation})−(“Measurement Unit”_{reference formulation})

The compositions of the present invention have a Hydration Factor of greater than about 0, preferably greater than about 1, more preferably greater than about 1.2, more preferably greater than about 1.5, more preferably greater than about 2 and most preferably greater than about 2.5.

Optional ingredients

Carrier

The compositions of the present invention comprise from about 1% to about 99.5% a dermatologically acceptable carrier within which the vitamin B₃compound and conditioning component are incorporated to enable the vitamin B₃compound and optional other actives to be delivered to the skin at an appropriate concentration.

The carrier can thus act as a diluent, dispersant, solvent, or the like for the particulate material which ensures that it can be applied to and distributed evenly over the selected target at an appropriate concentration.

The carrier may contain one or more dermatologically acceptable solid, semi-solid or liquid fillers, diluents, solvents, extenders and the like. The carrier may be solid, semi-solid or liquid. Preferred carriers are substantially liquid. The carrier can itself be inert or it can possess dermatological benefits of its own. Concentrations of the carrier can vary with the carrier selected and the intended concentrations of the essential and optional components.

Suitable carriers include conventional or otherwise known carriers that are dermatologically acceptable. The carrier should also be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and should not unduly impair stability, efficacy or other use benefits associated with the compositions of the present invention. Preferred components of the compositions of this invention should be capable of being comingled in a manner such that there is no interaction which would substantially reduce the efficacy of the composition under ordinary use situations.

The type of carrier utilized in the present invention depends on the type of product form desired for the composition. The topical compositions useful in the subject invention may be made into a wide variety of product forms such as are known in the art. These include, but are not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, sticks, sprays, ointments, pastes, mousses and cosmetics (e.g., solid, semi-solid, or liquid make-up, including foundations, eye-makeup, pigmented or non-pigmented lip treatments, e.g., lipsticks, and the like). These product forms may comprise several types of carriers including, but not limited to, solutions, aerosols, emulsions, gels, solids, and liposomes.

Preferred carriers contain a dermatologically acceptable, hydrophilic diluent. As used herein, “diluent” includes materials in which the particulate material can be dispersed, dissolved, or otherwise incorporated. Nonlimiting examples of hydrophilic diluents are water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent alcohols (e.g., C₁C₄) and low molecular weight glycols and polyols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (e.g., Molecular Weight 200-600 g/mole), polypropylene glycol (e.g., Molecular Weight 425-2025 g/mole), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol esters, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters, butanediol, ether propanol, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations thereof. Water is a preferred diluent. The composition preferably comprises from about 60% to about 99.99% of the hydrophilic diluent.

Solutions according to the subject invention typically include a dermatologically acceptable hydrophilic diluent. Solutions useful in the subject invention preferably contain from about 60% to about 99.99% of the hydrophilic diluent.

Aerosols according to the subject invention can be formed by adding a propellant to a solution such as described above. Exemplary propellants include chloro-fluorinated lower molecular weight hydrocarbons. Additional propellants that are useful herein are described in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology 2nd Edition, Vol. 2, pp. 443-465 (1972), incorporated herein by reference. Aerosols are typically applied to the skin as a spray-on product.

Preferred carriers comprise an emulsion comprising a hydrophilic phase comprising a hydrophilic component, e.g., water or other hydrophilic diluent, and a hydrophobic phase comprising a hydrophobic component, e.g., a lipid, oil or oily material. As well known to one skilled in the art, the hydrophilic phase will be dispersed in the hydrophobic phase, or vice versa, to form respectively hydrophilic or hydrophobic dispersed and continuous phases, depending on the composition ingredients. In emulsion technology, the term “dispersed phase” is a term well-known to one skilled in the art which means that the phase exists as small particles or droplets that are suspended in and surrounded by a continuous phase. The dispersed phase is also known as the internal or discontinuous phase. The emulsion may be or comprise (e.g., in a triple or other multi-phase emulsion) an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion such as a water-in-silicone emulsion. Oil-in-water emulsions typically comprise from about 1% to about 50% of the dispersed hydrophobic phase and from about 1% to about 98% of the continuous hydrophilic phase; water-in-oil emulsions typically comprise from about 1% to about 98% of the dispersed hydrophilic phase and from about 1% to about 50% of the continuous hydrophobic phase. The emulsion may also comprise a gel network, such as described in “Application of Emulsion Stability Theories to Mobile and Semisolid Oil-in-Water Emulsions”, Cosmetics and Toiletries, vol. 101, November 1986, pp. 73-92, which is incorporated by reference herein. Preferred emulsions are further described below.

The topical compositions of the subject invention, including but not limited to lotions and creams, may comprise a dermatologically acceptable emollient. Such compositions preferably contain from about 2% to about 50% of the emollient. Emollients tend to lubricate the skin, increase the smoothness and suppleness of the skin, prevent or relieve dryness of the skin, and/or protect the skin. Emollients are typically water-immiscible, oily or waxy materials. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known and may be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972), incorporated herein by reference, contains numerous examples of materials suitable as an emollient.

Lotions and creams according to the present invention generally comprise a solution carrier system and one or more emollients. Lotions typically comprise from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 10%, of emollient; from about 50% to about 90%, preferably from about 60% to about 80%, water. A cream typically comprises from about 5% to about 50%, preferably from about 10% to about 20%, of emollient; and from about 45% to about 85%, preferably from about 50% to about 75%, water.

Ointments of the present invention may comprise a simple carrier base of animal or vegetable oils or semi-solid hydrocarbons (oleaginous); absorption ointment bases which absorb water to form emulsions; or water soluble carriers, e.g., a water soluble solution carrier. Ointments may further comprise a thickening agent, such as described in Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. 1, pp. 72-73 (1972), incorporated herein by reference, and/or an emollient. For example, an ointment may comprise from about 2% to about 10% of an emollient; and from about 0.1% to about 2% of a thickening agent.

Compositions of this invention useful for cleansing (“cleansers”) are formulated with a suitable carrier, e.g., as described above, and preferably contain one or more dermatologically acceptable surfactants in an amount which is safe and effective for cleansing. Preferred compositions contain from about 1% to about 90%, more preferably from about 5% to about 10%, of a dermatologically acceptable surfactant. The surfactant is suitably selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and ampholytic surfactants, as well as mixtures of these surfactants. Such surfactants are well known to those skilled in the detergency art. Nonlimiting examples of possible surfactants include isoceteth-20, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and betaines such as described herein. See U.S. Pat. No. 4,800,197, to Kowcz et al., issued Jan. 24, 1989, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, for exemplary surfactants useful herein. Examples of a broad variety of additional surfactants useful herein are described in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The cleansing compositions can optionally contain, at their art-established levels, other materials which are conventionally used in cleansing compositions.

The physical form of the cleansing compositions is not critical. The compositions can be, for example, formulated as toilet bars, liquids, shampoos, bath gels, hair conditioners, hair tonics, pastes, or mousses. Toilet bars are most preferred since this is the form of cleansing agent most commonly used to wash the skin. Preferred rinse-off cleansing compositions, such as shampoos, include a delivery system adequate to deposit sufficient levels of actives on the skin and scalp. A preferred delivery system involves the use of insoluble complexes. For a more complete disclosure of such delivery systems, see U.S. Pat. No. 4,835,148, Barford et al., issued May 30, 1989, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

As used herein, the term “foundation” refers to a liquid, semi-liquid, semi-solid, or solid skin cosmetic which includes, but is not limited to lotions, creams, gels, pastes, cakes, and the like. Typically the foundation is used over a large area of the skin, such as over the face, to provide a particular look. Foundations are typically used to provide an adherent base for color cosmetics such as rouge, blusher, powder and the like, and tend to hide skin imperfections and impart a smooth, even appearance to the skin. Foundations of the present invention include a dermatologically acceptable carrier for the essential particulate material and may include conventional ingredients such as oils, colorants, pigments, emollients, fragrances, waxes, stabilizers, and the like. Exemplary carriers and such other ingredients which are suitable for use herein are described, for example, in copending patent application Ser. No. 08/430,961, filed on Apr. 28, 1995 in the names of Marcia L. Canter, Brain D. Barford, and Brian D. Hofrichter, incorporated herein by reference.

The compositions of the present invention are preferably formulated to have a pH of 10.5 or below. The pH values of these compositions preferably range from about 2 to about 10.5, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, even more preferably from about 5 to about 8.

Preferred compositions of this invention

Preferred topical compositions of the present invention comprise an emulsion. Emulsions of the present invention may contain one or more of the following:

a) Hydrophobic component

Emulsions according to the present invention contain a hydrophobic phase comprising a lipid, oil, oily or other hydrophobic component. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about 30%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition of a hydrophobic component. The hydrophobic component may be derived from animals, plants, or petroleum and may be natural or synthetic (i.e., man-made). Preferred hydrophobic components are substantially water-insoluble, more preferably essentially water-insoluble. Preferred hydrophobic components are those having a melting point of about 25° C. or less under about one atmosphere of pressure, and are suitable for conditioning the skin or hair.

Nonlimiting examples of suitable hydrophobic components include those selected from the group consisting of:

(1) Mineral oil, which is also known as petrolatum liquid, is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Entry 7048, p. 1033 (1983) and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, vol. 1, p. 415-417 (1993), which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

(2) Petrolatum, which is also known as petroleum jelly, is a colloidal system of nonstraight-chain solid hydrocarbons and high-boiling liquid hydrocarbons, in which most of the liquid hydrocarbons are held inside the micelles. See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Entry 7047, p. 1033 (1983); Schindler, Drug. Cosmet. Ind., 89, 36-37, 76, 78-80, 82 (1961); and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, vol. 1, p. 537 (1993), which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

(3) Straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms. Nonlimiting examples of these hydrocarbon materials include dodecane, isododecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, docosane (i.e. a C₂₂hydrocarbon), hexadecane, isohexadecane (a commercially available hydrocarbon sold as Permethyl® 101A by Presperse, South Plainfield, N.J.). Also useful are the C7-C40 isoparaffins, which are C7-C40 branched hydrocarbons.

(4) C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, including straight and branched chain materials as well as aromatic derivatives (as used herein in reference to the hydrophobic component, mono- and poly- carboxylic acids include straight chain, branched chain and aryl carboxylic acids). Nonlimiting examples include diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, methyl stearate, cetyl stearate, behenyl behenrate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, cetyl octanoate, diisopropyl dilinoleate.

(5) mono-, di- and tri- glycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, e.g., caprilic/capric triglyceride, PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-8 caprylic/capric triglyceride.

(6) alkylene glycol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, e.g., ethylene glycol mono- and di-esters, and propylene glycol mono- and di- esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids e.g., ethylene glycol distearate.

(7) propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives of the foregoing materials.

(8) C1-C30 mono- and poly- esters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters can be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, the glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), the mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, the galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, the arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, the sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoletate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitoleate and arachidate in a 1:2 molar ratio; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a 1:3 molar ratio; the heptaester of maltose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a 3:4 molar ratio; the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2:6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1:3:4 molar ratio. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C18 mono- and/or di-unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturates:behenic of 1:7 to 3:5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is the octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule. Other materials include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters of sucrose. The ester materials are further described in, U.S. Pat. No. 2,831,854, U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977; U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,195, to Jandacek, issued Jan. 25, 1977, U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,516, to Letton et al., issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,515, to Letton et al., issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 5,305,514, to Letton et al., issued Apr. 26, 1994; U.S. Pat. No. 4,797,300, to Jandacek et al., issued Jan. 10, 1989; U.S. Pat. No. 3,963,699, to Rizzi et al, issued Jun. 15, 1976; U.S. Pat. No. 4,518,772, to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,517,360, to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; all of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

(9) Organopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil may be volatile, non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term “nonvolatile” as used in this context refers to those silicones that are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under one atmospheric of pressure) of or greater than about 100° C. The term “volatile” as used in this context refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones spanning a broad range of volatilities and viscosities. Nonvolatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Nonlimiting examples of suitable silicones are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,069,897, to Orr, issued Dec. 3, 1991, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety. Examples of suitable organopolysiloxane oils include polyalkylsiloxanes, cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.

Polyalkylsiloxanes useful in the composition herein include polyalkylsiloxanes with viscosities of from about 0.5 to about 1,000,000 centistokes at 25° C. Such polyalkylsiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical formula R₃SiO[R₂SiO]_xSiR₃wherein R is an alkyl group having from one to about 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl; also mixed alkyl groups can be used in the same molecule), and x is an integer from 0 to about 10,000, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over about 10,000,000. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include the polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones, examples of which include the Vicasil® series sold by General Electric Company and the Dow Corning® 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation. Specific examples of suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow Coming® 200 fluid having a viscosity of 0.65 centistokes and a boiling point of 100° C., Dow Corning® 225 fluid having a viscosity of 10 centistokes and a boiling point greater than 200° C., and Dow Corning® 200 fluids having viscosities of 50, 350, and 12,500 centistokes, respectively, and boiling points greater than 200° C. Suitable dimethicones include those represented by the chemical formula (CH₃)₃SiO[(CH₃)₂SiO]_x[CH₃RSiO]_ySi(CH₃)₃wherein R is straight or branched chain alkyl having from two to about 30 carbon atoms and x and y are each integers of 1 or greater selected to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to over about 10,000,000. Examples of these alkyl-substituted dimethicones include cetyl dimethicone and lauryl dimethicone.

Cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes suitable for use in the composition include those represented by the chemical formula [SiR₂-O]_nwherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and n is an integer from about 3 to about 8, more preferably n is an integer from about 3 to about 7, and most preferably n is an integer from about 4 to about 6. When R is methyl, these materials are typically referred to as cyclomethicones. Commercially available cyclomethicones include Dow Corning® 244 fluid having a viscosity of 2.5 centistokes, and a boiling point of 172° C., which primarily contains the cyclomethicone tetramer (i.e. n=4), Dow Corning® 344 fluid having a viscosity of 2.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 178° C., which primarily contains the cyclomethicone pentamer (i.e. n=5), Dow Corning® 245 fluid having a viscosity of 4.2 centistokes and a boiling point of 205° C., which primarily contains a mixture of the cyclomethicone tetramer and pentamer (i.e. n=4 and 5), and Dow Corning® 345 fluid having a viscosity of 4.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 217°, which primarily contains a mixture of the cyclomethicone tetramer, pentamer, and hexamer (i.e. n=4, 5, and 6).

Also useful are materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is a polymeric material corresponding to the general chemical formula [(CH₂)₃SiO_½]_x[SiO₂]y, wherein x is an integer from about 1 to about 500 and y is an integer from about 1 to about 500. A commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture with dimethicone as Dow Corning® 593 fluid.

Dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the composition. These compounds can be represented by the chemical formulas R₃SiO[R₂SiO]_xSiR₂OH and HOR₂SiO[R₂SiO]_xSiR₂OH wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer from 0 to about 500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g. Dow Corning® 1401, 1402, and 1403 fluids).

Polyalkylaryl siloxanes are also suitable for use in the composition. Polymethylphenyl siloxanes having viscosities from about 15 to about 65 centistokes at 25° C. are especially useful.

Preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones, cyclomethicones, trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. More preferred for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Preferred among the polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones.

(10) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated safflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhaden oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, and mixtures thereof.

(11) animal fats and oils e.g., lanolin and derivatives thereof, cod liver oil.

(12) Also useful are C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, C1-C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and di-C8-C30 alkyl ethers. Nonlimiting examples of these materials include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

b) Hydrophilic component

Emulsions of the present invention also comprise a hydrophilic component, e.g., water or other hydrophilic diluent. The hydrophilic phase can thus comprise water, or a combination of water and one or more water soluble or dispersible ingredients. Hydrophilic components comprising water are preferred.

(c) Other components

Emulsions and other topical compositions of the present invention may comprise a variety of other ingredients such as disclosed herein. As will be understood by the skilled artisan, a given component will distribute primarily into either a hydrophilic phase or hydrophobic phase, depending on the hydrophilicity of the component in the composition.

Emulsions of the present invention preferably include one or more compounds selected from emulsifiers, surfactants, structuring agents, and thickeners.

(1) Emulsifiers/Surfactants

The emulsion may contain an emulsifier and/or surfactant, generally to help disperse and suspend the discontinuous phase within the continuous phase. A wide variety of such agents can be employed. Known or conventional emulsifiers/surfactants can be used in the composition, provided that the selected agent is chemically and physically compatible with essential components of the composition, and provides the desired dispersion characteristics. Suitable agents include non-silicone-containing emulsifiers/surfactants, silicone emulsifiers/surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a hydrophilic emulsifier or surfactant. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.05% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1% of at least one hydrophilic surfactant. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that the hydrophilic surfactant assists in dispersing hydrophobic materials, e.g., hydrophobic structuring agents, in the hydrophilic phase. The surfactant, at a minimum, must be hydrophilic enough to disperse in the hydrophilic phase. Preferred surfactants are those having an HLB of at least about 8. The exact surfactant chosen will depend upon the pH of the composition and the other components present.

Preferred hydrophilic surfactants are selected from nonionic surfactants. Among the nonionic surfactants that are useful herein are those that can be broadly defined as condensation products of long chain alcohols, e.g. C8-30 alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers, i.e., glycosides. These compounds can be represented by the formula (Sn)_n-O-R wherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, and galactose; n is an integer of from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C8-30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Preferred examples of these surfactants include those wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a C8-20 alkyl group, and n is an integer of from about 1 to about 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG 325 CS from Henkel) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG 600 CS and 625 CS from Henkel).

Other useful nonionic surfactants include the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty acids (i.e. alkylene oxide esters of fatty acids). These materials have the general formula RCO(X)_nOH wherein R is a C10-30 alkyl group, X is —OCH₂CH₂— (i.e. derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or —OCH₂CHCH₃— (i.e. derived from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 200. Other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with 2 moles of fatty acids (i.e. alkylene oxide diesters of fatty acids). These materials have the general formula RCO(X)_nOOCR wherein R is a C10-30 alkyl group, X is —OCH₂CH₂—(i.e. derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or —OCH₂CHCH₃—(i.e. derived from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100. Other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty alcohols (i.e. alkylene oxide ethers of fatty alcohols). These materials have the general formula R(X)_nOR′ wherein R is a C10-30 alkyl group, X is —OCH₂CH₂—(i.e. derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or —OCH₂CHCH₃—(i.e. derived from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100 and R′ is H or a C10-30 alkyl group. Still other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with both fatty acids and fatty alcohols [i.e. wherein the polyalkylene oxide portion is esterified on one end with a fatty acid and etherified (i.e. connected via an ether linkage) on the other end with a fatty alcohol]. These materials have the general formula RCO(X)_nOR′ wherein R and R′ are C10-30 alkyl groups, X is —OCH₂CH₂(i.e. derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or —OCH₂CHCH₃—(derived from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100. Nonlimiting examples of these alkylene oxide derived nonionic surfactants include ceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, steareth-6, steareth-10, steareth-12, PEG-6 stearate, PEG-10 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-80 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-200 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate, and mixtures thereof.

Still other useful nonionic surfactants include polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants corresponding to the structural formula:

wherein: R¹is H, C₁-C₄alkyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxy- propyl, preferably C₁-C₄alkyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl, most preferably methyl; R²is C₅-C₃₁alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C₇-C₁₉alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably C₉-C₁₇alkyl or alkenyl, most preferably C₁₁-C₁₅alkyl or alkenyl; and Z is a polhydroxyhydrocarbyl moiety having a linear hydrocarbyl chain with a least 3 hydroxyls directly connected to the chain, or an alkoxylated derivative (preferably ethoxylated or propoxylated) thereof. Z preferably is a sugar moiety selected from the group consisting of glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, xylose, and mixtures thereof. An especially preferred surfactant corresponding to the above structure is coconut alkyl N-methyl glucoside amide (i.e., wherein the R²CO— moiety is derived from coconut oil fatty acids). Processes for making compositions containing polyhydroxy fatty acid amides are disclosed, for example, in G.B. Patent Specification 809,060, published Feb. 18, 1959, by Thomas Hedley & Co., Ltd.; U.S. Pat. No. 2,965,576, to E. R. Wilson, issued Dec. 20, 1960; U.S. Pat. No. 2,703,798, to A. M. Schwartz, issued Mar. 8, 1955; and U.S. Pat. No. 1,985,424, to Piggott, issued Dec. 25, 1934; which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Preferred among the nonionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of steareth-21, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, sucrose cocoate, steareth-100, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use herein include sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C1—C30 fatty acid esters of C1—C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1 -C30 fatty acids, C1-C30 esters of polyols, C1-C30 ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting examples of these non-silicon-containing emulsifiers include: polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Another emulsifier useful herein are fatty acid ester blends based on a mixture of sorbitan or sorbitol fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester, the fatty acid in each instance being preferably C₈-C₂₄, more preferably C₁₀-C₂₀. The preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier is a blend of sorbitan or sorbitol C₁₆-C₂₀fatty acid ester with sucrose C₁₀-C₁₆fatty acid ester, especially sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. This is commercially available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121.

The hydrophilic surfactants useful herein can alternatively or additionally include any of a wide variety of cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants such as are known in the art. See, e.g., McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; U.S. Pat. No. 5,011,681 to Ciotti et al., issued Apr. 30, 1991; U.S. Pat. No. 4,421,769 to Dixon et al., issued Dec. 20, 1983; and U.S. Pat. No. 3,755,560 to Dickert et al., issued Aug. 28, 1973; these four references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Exemplary cationic surfactants useful herein include those disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,151,209, to McCall et al., issued Sep. 29, 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 5,151,210, to Steuri et al., issued Sep. 29, 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 5,120,532, to Wells et al., issued Jun. 9, 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 4,387,090, to Bolich, issued Jun. 7, 1983;; U.S. Pat. No. 3,155,591, Hilfer, issued Nov. 3, 1964; U.S. Pat. No. 3,929,678, to Laughlin et al., issued Dec. 30, 1975; U.S. Pat. No. 3,959,461, to Bailey et al., issued May 25, 1976; McCutcheon's, Detergents & Emulsifiers. (North American edition 1979) M. C. Publishing Co.; and Schwartz, et al., Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and Technology, New York: Interscience Publishers, 1949; all of these documents being incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. The cationic surfactants useful herein include cationic ammonium salts such as quaternary ammonium salts, and amino-amides.

A wide variety of anionic surfactants are also useful herein. See, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 3,929,678, to Laughlin et al., issued Dec. 30, 1975, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Nonlimiting examples of anionic surfactants include the alkoyl isethionates (e.g., C₁₂-C₃₀), alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates and salts thereof, alkyl and alkyl ether phosphates and salts thereof, alkyl methyl taurates (e.g., C₁₂-C₃₀), and soaps (e.g., alkali metal salts, e.g., sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids.

Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are also useful herein. Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention are those which are broadly described as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms (preferably C₈-C₁₈) and one contains an anionic water solubilizing group, e.g., carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Examples are alkyl imino acetates, and iminodialkanoates and aminoalkanoates, imidazolinium and ammonium derivatives. Other suitable amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines, alkyl sarcosinates (e.g., C₁₂-C₃₀), and alkanoyl sarcosinates.

Preferred emulsions of the present invention include a silicone containing emulsifier or surfactant. A wide variety of silicone emulsifiers are useful herein. These silicone emulsifiers are typically organically modified organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled in the art as silicone surfactants. Useful silicone emulsifiers include dimethicone copolyols. These materials are polydimethyl siloxanes which have been modified to include polyether side chains such as polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of these chains, and polyether chains containing moieties derived from both ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. Other examples include alkyl-modified dimethicone copolyols, i.e., compounds which contain C2-C30 pendant side chains. Still other useful dimethicone copolyols include materials having various cationic, anionic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic pendant moieties.

The dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein can be described by the following general structure:

wherein R is C1-C30 straight, branched, or cyclic alkyl and R²is selected from the group consisting of

—(CH₂)_n—O—(CH₂CHR³O)_m—H,

and

—(CH₂)_n—O—(CH₂CHR³O)_m—(CH₂CHR⁴O)_o—H,

wherein n is an integer from 3 to about 10; R³and R⁴are selected from the group consisting of H and C1-C6 straight or branched chain alkyl such that R³and R⁴are not simultaneously the same; and m, o, x, and y are selected such that the molecule has an overall molecular weight from about 200 to about 10,000,000, with m, o, x, and y being independently selected from integers of zero or greater such that m and o are not both simultaneously zero, and z being independently selected from integers of 1 or greater. It is recognized that positional isomers of these copolyols can be achieved. The chemical representations depicted above for the R²moieties containing the R³and R⁴groups are not meant to be limiting but are shown as such for convenience.

Also useful herein, although not strictly classified as dimethicone copolyols, are silicone surfactants as depicted in the structures in the previous paragraph wherein R²is:

—(CH₂)_n—O—R⁵,

wherein R⁵is a cationic, anionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic moiety.

Nonlimiting examples of dimethicone copolyols and other silicone surfactants useful as emulsifiers herein include polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant polyethylene oxide sidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant polypropylene oxide sidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant mixed polyethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide sidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant mixed poly(ethylene)(propylene)oxide sidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant organobetaine sidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant carboxylate sidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant quaternary ammonium sidechains; and also further modifications of the preceding copolymers containing pendant C2-C30 straight, branched, or cyclic alkyl moieties. Examples of commercially available dimethicone copolyols useful herein sold by Dow Corning Corporation are Dow Corning® 190, 193, Q2-5220, 2501 Wax, 2-5324 fluid, and 3225C (this later material being sold as a mixture with cyclomethicone). Cetyl dimethicone copolyol is commercially available as a mixture with polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) hexyl laurate and is sold under the tradename ABIL® WE-09 (available from Goldschmidt). Cetyl dimethicone copolyol is also commercially available as a mixture with hexyl laurate (and) polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) cetyl dimethicone and is sold under the tradename ABIL® WS-08 (also available from Goldschmidt). Other nonlimiting examples of dimethicone copolyols also include lauryl dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol acetate, dimethicone copolyol adipate, dimethicone copolyolamine, dimethicone copolyol behenate, dimethicone copolyol butyl ether, dimethicone copolyol hydroxy stearate, dimethicone copolyol isostearate, dimethicone copolyol laurate, dimethicone copolyol methyl ether, dimethicone copolyol phosphate, and dimethicone copolyol stearate. See Intentional Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.

Dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 4,960,764, to Figueroa, Jr. et al., issued Oct. 2, 1990; European Patent No. EP 330,369, to SaNogueira, published Aug. 30, 1989; G. H. Dahms, et al., “New Formulation Possibilities Offered by Silicone Copolyols,” Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 110, pp. 91-100, Mar. 1995; M. E. Carlotti et al., “Optimization of W/O-S Emulsions And Study Of The Quantitative Relationships Between Ester Structure And Emulsion Properties,” J. Dispersion Science And Technology, 13(3), 315-336 (1992); P. Hameyer, “Comparative Technological Investigations of Organic and Organosilicone Emulsifiers in Cosmetic Water-in-Oil Emulsion Preparations,” HAPPI 28(4), pp. 88-128 (1991); J. Smid-Korbar et al., “Efficiency and usability of silicone surfactants in emulsions,” Provisional Communication, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 12, 135-139 (1990); and D. G. Krzysik et al., “A New Silicone Emulsifier For Water-in-Oil Systems,” Drug and Cosmetic Industry, vol. 146(4) pp. 28-81 (Apr. 1990); incorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

(2) Structuring Agent

The compositions hereof, and especially the emulsions hereof, may contain a structuring agent. Structuring agents are particularly preferred in the oil-in-water emulsions of the present invention. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the structuring agent assists in providing rheological characteristics to the composition which contribute to the stability of the composition. For example, the structuring agent tends to assist in the formation of the liquid crystalline gel network structures. The structuring agent may also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Preferred compositions of this invention comprise from about 1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 2% to about 9%, of one or more structuring agents.

Preferred structuring agents are those having an HLB of from about 1 to about 8 and having a melting point of at least about 45° C. Suitable structuring agents are those selected from the group consisting of saturated C₁₄to C₃₀fatty alcohols saturated C₁₆to C₃₀fatty alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, saturated C₁₆to C₃₀diols, saturated C₁₆to C₃₀monoglycerol ethers, saturated C₁₆to C₃₀hydroxy fatty acids, C₁₄to C₃₀hydroxylated and nonhydroxylated saturated fatty acids, C₁₄to C₃₀saturated ethoxylated fatty acids, amines and alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide diols, C₁₄to C₃₀saturated glyceryl mono esters with a monoglyceride content of at least 40%, C₁₄to C₃₀saturated polyglycerol esters having from about 1 to about 3 alkyl group and from about 2 to about 3 saturated glycerol units, C₁₄to C₃₀glyceryl mono ethers, C₁₄to C₃₀sorbitan mono/diesters, C₁₄to C₃₀saturated ethoxylated sorbitan mono/diesters with about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, C₁₄to C₃₀saturated methyl glucoside esters, C₁₄to C₃₀saturated sucrose mono/diesters, C₁₄to C₃₀saturated ethoxylated methyl glucoside esters with about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, C₁₄to C₃₀saturated polyglucosides having an average of between 1 to 2 glucose units and mixtures thereof, having a melting point of at least about 45° C.

The preferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. More preferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units (steareth-2), the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferred structuring agents are selected from the group consisting of stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-2, and mixtures thereof.

(3) Thickening Agent (including thickeners and gelling agents)

The compositions of the present invention can also comprise a thickening agent, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, and most preferably from about 0.25% to about 2%, of a thickening agent

Nonlimiting classes of thickening agents include those selected from the group consisting of:

(i) Carboxylic Acid Polymers These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol. The preferred carboxylic acid polymers are of two general types. The first type of polymer is a crosslinked homopolymer of an acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof (e.g., wherein the acrylic acid has substituents on the two and three carbon positions independently selected from the group consisting of C_1-4alkyl, —CN, —COOH, and mixtures thereof). The second type of polymer is a crosslinked copolymer having a first monomer selected from the group consisting of an acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof (as just described in the previous sentence), a short chain alcohol (i.e., a C_1-4) acrylate ester monomer or derivative thereof (e.g., wherein the acrylic acid portion of the ester has substituents on the two and three carbon positions independently selected from the group consisting of C_1-4alkyl, —CN, —COOH, and mixtures thereof), and mixtures thereof; and a second monomer which is a long chain alcohol (i.e. C_8-40) acrylate ester monomer or derivative thereof (e.g., wherein the acrylic acid portion of the ester has substituents on the two and three carbon positions independently selected from the group consisting of C_1-4alkyl, —CN, —COOH, and mixtures thereof). Combinations of these two types of polymers are also useful herein.

In the first type of crosslinked homopolymers, the monomers are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof, with acrylic acid being most preferred. In the second type of crosslinked copolymers the acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof is preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof, with acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof being most preferred. The short chain alcohol acrylate ester monomer or derivative thereof is preferably selected from the group consisting of C_1-4alcohol acrylate esters, C_1-4alcohol methacrylate esters, C_1-4alcohol ethacrylate esters, and mixtures thereof, with the C_1-4alcohol acrylate esters, C_1-4alcohol methacrylate esters, and mixtures thereof, being most preferred. The long chain alcohol acrylate ester monomer is selected from C_8-40alkyl acrylate esters, with C_10-30alkyl acrylate esters being preferred.

The crosslinking agent in both of these types of polymers is a polyalkenyl polyether of a polyhydric alcohol containing more than one alkenyl ether group per molecule, wherein the parent polyhydric alcohol contains at least 3 carbon atoms and at least 3 hydroxyl groups. Preferred crosslinkers are those selected from the group consisting of allyl ethers of sucrose and allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof. These polymers useful in the present invention are more fully described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445, to Haffey et al., issued Feb. 11, 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 4,509,949, to Huang et al., issued Apr. 5, 1985; U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053, to Brown, issued Jul. 2, 1957; which are both incorporated by reference herein in their entirety. See also, CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80; which are also incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Examples of commercially available homopolymers of the first type useful herein include the carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol. The carbomers are available as the Carbopol® 900 series from B. F. Goodrich (e.g., Carbopol® 954). Examples of commercially available copolymers of the second type useful herein include copolymers of C_10-30alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short chain (i.e. C_1-4alcohol) esters, wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerytritol. These copolymers are known as acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and are commercially available as Carbopol® 1342, Carbopol® 1382Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich. In other words, examples of carboxylic acid polymer thickeners useful herein are those selected from the group consisting of carbomers, acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, and mixtures thereof.

(ii) Crosslinked Polyacrylate Polymers The crosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agents include both cationic and nonionic polymers, with the cationics being generally preferred. Examples of useful crosslinked nonionic polyacrylate polymers and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymers are those described in U.S. Pat. 5,100,660, to Hawe et al., issued Mar. 31, 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 4,849,484, to Heard, issued Jul. 18, 1989; U.S. Pat. No. 4,835,206, to Farrar et al., issued May 30, 1989; U.S. Pat. 4,628,078 to Glover et al. issued Dec. 9, 1986; U.S. Pat. No. 4,599,379 to Flesher et al. issued Jul. 8, 1986; and EP 228,868, to Farrar et al., published Jul. 15, 1987; all of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

The crosslinked polyacrylate polymers are high molecular weight materials that can be characterized by the general formula: (A)_l(B)_m(C)_nand comprise the monomer units (A)_l, (B)_m, and (C)_n, wherein (A) is a dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate monomer or its quaternary ammonium or acid addition salt, (B) is a dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate monomer or its quaternary ammonium or acid addition salt, (C) is a monomer that is polymerizable with (A) or (B), for example a monomer having a carbon-carbon double bond or other such polymerizable functional group, 1 is an integer of 0 or greater, m is an integer of 0 or greater, n is an integer of 0 or greater, but where either l or m, or both, must be 1 or greater.

The (C) monomer can be selected from any of the commonly used monomers. Nonlimiting examples of these monomers include ethylene, propylene, butylene, isobutylene, eicosene, maleic anhydride, acrylamide, methacrylamide, maleic acid, acrolein, cyclohexene, ethyl vinyl ether, and methyl vinyl ether. In the cationic polymers of the present invention, (C) is preferably acrylamide. The alkyl portions of the (A) and (B) monomers are short chain length alkyls such as C₁-C₈, preferably C₁-C₅, more preferably C₁-C₃, and most preferably C₁-C₂. When quaternized, the polymers are preferably quatemized with short chain alkyls, i.e., C₁-C₈, preferably C₁-C₅, more preferably C₁-C₃, and most preferably C₁-C₂. The acid addition salts refer to polymers having protonated amino groups. Acid addition salts can be performed through the use of halogen (e.g. chloride), acetic, phosphoric, nitric, citric, or other acids.

These (A)_l(B)_m(C)_npolymers also comprise a crosslinking agent, which is most typically a material containing two or more unsaturated functional groups. The crosslinking agent is reacted with the monomer units of the polymer and is incorporated into the polymer thereby forming links or covalent bonds between two or more individual polymer chains or between two or more sections of the same polymer chain. Nonlimiting examples of suitable crosslinking agents include those selected from the group consisting of methylenebisacrylamides, diallyldialkyl ammonium halides, polyalkenyl polyethers of polyhydric alcohols, allyl acrylates, vinyloxyalkylacrylates, and polyfunctional vinylidenes. Specific examples of crosslinking agents useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of methylenebisacrylamide, ethylene glycol di-(meth)acrylate, di-(meth)acrylamide, cyanomethylacrylate, vinyloxyethylacrylate, vinyloxyethylmethacrylate, allyl pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane diallylether, allyl sucrose, butadiene, isoprene, divinyl benzene, divinyl naphthalene, ethyl vinyl ether, methyl vinyl ether, and allyl acrylate. Other crosslinkers include formaldehyde and glyoxal. Preferred for use herein as a crosslinking agent is methylenebisacrylamide.

Widely varying amounts of the crosslinking agent can be employed depending upon the properties desired in the final polymer, e.g. viscosifing effect. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that incorporation of a crosslinking agent into these cationic polymers provides a material that is a more effective viscosifing agent without negatives such as stringiness and viscosity breakdown in the presence of electrolytes. The crosslinking agent, when present, can comprise from about 1 ppm to about 1000 ppm, preferably from about 5 ppm to about 750 ppm, more preferably from about 25 ppm to about 500 ppm, even more preferably from about 100 ppm to about 500 ppm, and most preferably from about 250 ppm to about 500 ppm of the total weight of the polymer on a weight/weight basis.

The intrinsic viscosity of the crosslinked polymer, measured in one molar sodium chloride solution at 25° C., is generally above 6, preferably from about 8 to about 14. The molecular weight (weight average) of the crosslinked polymers hereof is high, and is believed to typically be between about 1 million and about 30 million. The specific molecular weight is not critical and lower or higher weight average molecular weights can be used as long as the polymer retains its intended viscosifing effects. Preferably, a 1.0% solution of the polymer (on an actives basis) in deionized water will have a viscosity at 25° C. of at least about 20,000 cP, preferably at least about 30,000 cP, when measured at 20 RPM by a Brookfield RVT (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Inc. Stoughton, Mass., U.S.A).

These cationic polymers can be made by polymerization of an aqueous solution containing from about 20% to about 60%, generally from about 25% to about 40%/, by weight monomer, in the presence of an initiator (usually redox or thermal) until the polymerization terminates. The crosslinking agent can also be added to the solution of the monomers to be polymerized, to incorporate it into the polymer. In the polymerization reactions, the temperature generally starts between about 0° and 95° C. The polymerization can be conducted by forming a reverse phase dispersion of an aqueous phase of the monomers (and also any additional crosslinking agents) into a nonaqueous liquid, e.g. mineral oil, lanolin, isododecane, oleyl alcohol, and other volatile and nonvolatile esters, ethers, and alcohols, and the like.

All percentages describing the polymer in this section of the description herein are molar, unless otherwise specified. When the polymer contains (C) monomer, the molar proportion of (C) monomer, based on the total molar amount of (A), (B), and (C), can be from 0% to about 99%. The molar proportions of (A) and (B) can each be from 0% to 100%. When acrylamide, is used as the (C) monomer, it will preferably be used at a level of from about 20% to about 99%, more preferably from about 50% to about 90%.

Where monomer (A) and (B) are both present, the ratio of monomer (A) to monomer (B) in the final polymer, on a molar basis, is preferably from about 99:5 to about 15:85, more preferably from about 80:20 to about 20:80. Alternatively, in another class of polymers, the ratio is from about 5:95 to about 50:50, preferably from about 5:95 to about 25:75.

In another alternative class of polymers, the ratio (A):(B) is from about 50:50 to about 85:15. Preferably the ratio (A):(B) is about 60:40 to about 85:15, most preferably about 75:25 to about 85:15.

Most preferred is where monomer (A) is not present and the ratio of monomer (B):monomer (C) is from about 30:70 to about 70:30, preferably from about 40:60 to about 60:40 and most preferably from about 45:55 to about 55:45.

Cationic polymers that are useful herein that are especially preferred are those conforming to the general structure (A)_l(B)_m(C)_nwherein l is zero, (B) is methyl quaternized dimnethylamninoethyl methacrylate, the ratio of (B):(C) is from about 45:55 to about 55:45, and the crosslinking agent is methylenebisacrylamide. An example of such a cationic polymer is one that is commercially available as a mineral oil dispersion (which can also include various dispersing aids such as PPG-1 trideceth-6) under the trademark Salcare® SC92 from Allied Colloids Ltd. (Norfolk, Va.). This polymer has the proposed CTFA designation, “Polyquaternium 32 (and) Mineral Oil”.

Other cationic polymers useful herein, are those not containing acrylamide or other (C) monomers, that is, n is zero. In these polymers the (A) and (B) monomer components are as described above. An especially preferred group of these non-acrylamide containing polymers is one in which l is also zero. In this instance the polymer is essentially a homopolymer of a dialkylaminoalkyl methacrlyate monomer or its quaternary ammonium or acid addition salt. These diaklylarninoalkyl methacrylate polymers preferably contain a crosslinking agent as described above.

A cationic polymer, which is essentially a homopolymer, useful herein is one conforming to the general structure (A)_l(B)_m(C)_nwherein l is zero, (B) is methyl quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, n is zero, and the crosslinking agent is methylenebisacrylamide. An example of such a homopolymer is commercially available as a mixture containing approximately 50% of the polymer, approximately 44% mineral oil, and approximately 6% PPG-1 trideceth-6 as a dispersing aid, from Allied Colloids Ltd, (Norfolk, Va.) under the trademark Salcare® SC95. This polymer has recently been given the CTFA designation “Polyquaternium 37 (and) Mineral Oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6”.

(iii) Polyacrylamide Polymers Also useful herein are polyacrylamide polymers, especially non-ionic polyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranched polymers. These polymers can be formed from a variety of monomers including acrylamide and methacrylamide which are unsubstituted or substituted with one or two alkyl groups (preferably C₁to C₅). Preferred are acrylate amide and methacrylate amide monomers in which the amide nitrogen is unsubstituted, or substituted with one or two C₁to C₅alkyl groups (preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl), for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methacrylamide, N-methylmethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N-isopropylmethacrylamide, and N,N-dimnethylacrylamide. These polymers have a molecular weight greater than about 1,000,000 preferably greater than about 1,5000,000 and range up to about 30,000,000. Most preferred among these polyacrylamide polymers is the non-ionic polymer given the CTFA designation polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the Tradename Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation (Fairfield, N.J.).

Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multi-block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these multi-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc., (Patterson, N.J.).

(iv) Polysaccharides A wide variety of polysaccharides are useful herein. By “polysaccharides” are meant gelling agents containing a backbone of repeating sugar (i.e. carbohydrate) units. Nonlimiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are the alkyl substituted celluloses. In these polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer is hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with a C10-C30 straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an ether linkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C10-C30 straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Examples of alkyl groups useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (i.e. alkyl groups derived from the alcohols of coconut oil), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, ricinoleyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof. Preferred among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers is the material given the CTFA designation cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the tradename Natrosol® CS Plus from Aqualon Corporation.

Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1−>3) linked glucose units with a (1−>6) linked glucose every three units, a commercially available example of which is Clearogel™ CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc. (Mountainside, N.J.).

(v) Gums Other additional thickening and gelling agents useful herein include materials which are primarily derived from natural sources. Nonlimiting examples of these gelling agent gums include materials selected from the group consisting of acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

(vi) Crosslinked Vinyl Ether/Maleic Anhydride Copolymers Other additional thickening and gelling agents useful herein include crosslinked copolymers of alkyl vinyl ethers and maleic anhydride. In these copolymers the vinyl ethers are represented by the formula R—O—CH══CH₂wherein R is a C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably R is methyl. Preferred crosslinking agents are C4-C20 dienes, preferably C6 to C16 dienes, and most preferably C8 to C12 dienes. A particularly preferred copolymer is one formed from methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride wherein the copolymer has been crosslinked with decadiene, and wherein the polymer when diluted as a 0.5% aqueous solution at pH 7 at 25° C. has a viscosity of 50,000-70,000 cps when measured using a Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle #7 at 10 rpm. This copolymer has the CTFA designation PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer and is commercially available as Stabileze™ 06 from International Specialty Products (Wayne N.J.).

(vii) Crosslinked poly(N-vinylpyrrolidones) Crosslinked polyvinyl(N-pyrrolidones) useful herein as additional thickening and gelling agents and include those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,139,770, to Shih et al, issued Aug. 18, 1992, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,614, to Shih et al., issued Dec. 17, 1991, both patents of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety. These gelling agents typically contain from about 0.25% to about 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent selected from the group consisting of divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of terminal diols containing from about 2 to about 12 carbon atoms, divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of polyethylene glycols containing from about 2 to about 600 units, dienes having from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms, divinyl benzene, vinyl and allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, and the like. Typically, these gelling agents have a viscosity from about 25,000 cps to about 40,000 cps when measured as a 5% aqueous solution at 25° C. using a Brookfield RVT viscometer with Spindle #6 at 10 rpm. Commercially available examples of these polymers include ACP-1120, ACP-1179, and ACP-1180, available from International Specialty Products (Wayne, N.J.).

Thickening agents which are suitable for use herein also include those disclosed in U.S. Pat. No., 4,387,107, to Klein et al., issued Jun. 7, 1983 and “Encyclopedia of Polymer and Thickeners for Cosmetics,” R. Y. Lochhead and W. R. Fron, eds., Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 108, pp. 95-135 (May 1993), which are all incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Preferred compositions of the present invention include a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Optional Components

The topical compositions of the present invention may comprise a wide variety of optional components, provided that such optional components are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and do not unduly impair stability, efficacy or other use benefits associated with the compositions of the present invention. Optional components may be dispersed, dissolved or the like in the carrier of the present compositions.

Optional components include aesthetic agents and active agents. For example, the compositions may include, in addition to the essential components of the invention, absorbents (including oil absorbents such as clays an polymeric absorbents), abrasives, anticaking agents, antifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g., a compound capable of destroying microbes, preventing the development of microbes or preventing the pathogenic action of microbes and useful, for example, in controlling acne and/or preserving the topical composition), binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chemical additives, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, cosmetic astringents, drug astringents, external analgesics, film formers, humectants, opacifying agents, fragrances, perfumes, pigments, colorings, essential oils, skin sensates, emollients, skin soothing agents, skin healing agents, pH adjusters, plasticizers, preservatives, preservative enhancers, propellants, reducing agents, skin-conditioning agents, skin penetration enhancing agents, skin protectants, solvents, suspending agents, emulsifiers, thickening agents, solubilizing agents, polymers for aiding the film-forming properties and substantivity of the composition (such as a copolymer of eicosene and vinyl pyrrolidone, an example of which is available from GAF Chemical Corporation as Ganex® V-220), waxes, sunscreens, sunblocks, ultraviolet light absorbers or scattering agents, sunless tanning agents, antioxidants and/or radical scavengers, chelating agents, sequestrants, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-androgens, depilation agents, desquamation agents/exfoliants, organic hydroxy acids, vitamins and derivatives thereof (including water dispersible or soluble vitamins such as Vitamin C and ascorbyl phosphates), compounds which stimulate collagen production, and natural extracts. Such other materials are known in the art.

Nonexclusive examples of such materials are described in Harry's Cosmeticology, 7th Ed., Harry & Wilkinson (Hill Publishers, London 1982); in Pharmaceutical Dosage Forms—Disperse Systems; Lieberman, Rieger & Banker, Vols. 1 (1988) & 2 (1989); Marcel Decker, Inc.; in The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics 2nd Ed. deNavarre (Van Nostrand 1962-1965); and in The Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, 1st Ed. Knowlton & Pearce (Elsevier 1993). can also be used in the present invention.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition also includes an active useful for chronically regulating skin condition. Such materials are those which manifest skin appearance benefits following chronic application of the composition containing such materials. Materials having this effect include, but are not limited to, retinoids.

Specific examples of optional components include the following.

A. Retinoids

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention contain a retinoid. The retinoid enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, especially in regulating skin condition, including regulating signs of skin aging, more especially wrinkles, lines, and pores.

As used herein, “retinoid” includes all natural and/or synthetic analogs of Vitamin A or retinol-like compounds which possess the biological activity of Vitamin A in the skin as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C₂-C₂₂alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and/or retinoic acid (including all-trans retinoic acid and/or 13-cis-retinoic acid), more preferably retinoids other than retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, Mo.), and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, Ind.). Other retinoids which are useful herein are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,677,120, issued Jun. 30, 1987 to Parish et al.; 4,885,311, issued Dec. 5, 1989 to Parish et al.; 5,049,584, issued Sep. 17, 1991 to Purcell et al.; 5,124,356, issued Jun. 23, 1992 to Purcell et al.; and Reissue 34,075, issued Sep. 22, 1992 to Purcell et al. Other suitable retinoids are tocopheryl-retinoate [tocopherol ester of retinoic acid (trans- or cis-), adapalene {6-[3-(1-adamantyl)-4-methoxyphenyl]-2-naphthoic acid}, and tazarotene (ethyl 6-[2-(4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl)ethynyl]nicotinate). One or more retinoids may be used herein. Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl proprionate, retinal and combinations thereof. More preferred are retinol and retinyl palmitate.

The retinoid may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources. The retinoid is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure.

The compositions of this invention may contain a safe and effective amount of the retinoid, such that the resultant composition is safe and effective for regulating skin condition, preferably for regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin, more preferably for regulating signs of skin aging, even more preferably for regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin texture associated with skin aging. The compositions preferably contain from or about 0.005% to or about 2%, more preferably 0.01% to or about 2%, retinoid. Retinol is most preferably used in an amount of from or about 0.01% to or about 0.15%; retinol esters are most preferably used in an amount of from or about 0.01% to or about 2% (e.g., about 1%); retinoic acids are most preferably used in an amount of from or about 0.01% to or about 0.25%; tocopheryl-retinoate, adapalene, and tazarotene are most preferably used in an amount of from or about 0.01% to or about 2%.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains both a retinoid and a Vitamin B₃compound. The retinoid is preferably used in the above amounts, and the vitamin B₃compound is preferably used in an amount of from or about 0.1% to or about 10%, more preferably from or about 2% to or about 5%.

B. Anti-Inflammatory Agents

A safe and effective amount of an anti-inflammatory agent may be added to the compositions of the subject invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, of the composition. The anti-inflammatory agent enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, e.g., such agents contribute to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or color. The exact amount of anti-inflammatory agent to be used in the compositions will depend on the particular anti-inflammatory agent utilized since such agents vary widely in potency.

Steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, including but not limited to, corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone, hydroxyltriamcinolone, alpha-methyl dexamethasone, dexamethasone-phosphate, beclomethasone dipropionates, clobetasol valerate, desonide, desoxymethasone, desoxycorticosterone acetate, dexamethasone, dichlorisone, diflorasone diacetate, diflucortolone valerate, fluadrenolone, fluclorolone acetonide, fludrocortisone, flumethasone pivalate, fluosinolone acetonide, fluocinonide, flucortine butylesters, fluocortolone, fluprednidene (fluprednylidene) acetate, flurandrenolone, halcinonide, hydrocortisone acetate, hydrocortisone butyrate, methylprednisolone, triamcinolone acetonide, cortisone, cortodoxone, flucetonide, fludrocortisone, difluorosone diacetate, fluradrenolone, fludrocortisone, diflurosone diacetate, fluradrenolone acetonide, medrysone, amcinafel, amcinafide, betamethasone and the balance of its esters, chloroprednisone, chlorprednisone acetate, clocortelone, clescinolone, dichlorisone, diflurprednate, flucloronide, flunisolide, fluoromethalone, fluperolone, fluprednisolone, hydrocortisone valerate, hydrocortisone cyclopentylpropionate, hydrocortamate, meprednisone, paramethasone, prednisolone, prednisone, beclomethasone dipropionate, triamcinolone, and mixtures thereof may be used. The preferred steroidal anti-inflammatory for use is hydrocortisone.

A second class of anti-inflammatory agents which is useful in the compositions includes the nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents. The variety of compounds encompassed by this group are well-known to those skilled in the art. For detailed disclosure of the chemical structure, synthesis, side effects, etc. of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, reference may be had to standard texts, including Anti-inflammatory and Anti-Rheumatic Drugs, K. D. Rainsford, Vol. I-III, CRC Press, Boca Raton, (1985), and Anti-inflammatory Agents, Chemistry and Pharmacology, 1, R. A. Scherrer, et al., Academic Press, New York (1974), each incorporated herein by reference.

Specific non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents useful in the composition invention include, but are not limited to:

1) the oxicams, such as piroxicam, isoxicam, tenoxicam, sudoxicam, and CP-14,304;

2) the salicylates, such as aspirin, disalcid, benorylate, trilisate, safapryn, solprin, diflunisal, and fendosal;

10 3) the acetic acid derivatives, such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin, isoxepac, firofenac, tiopinac, zidometacin, acematacin, fentiazac, zomepirac, clindanac, oxepinac, felbinac, and ketorolac;

10 4) the fenamates, such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic, niflumic, and tolfenamic acids;

10 5) the propionic acid derivatives, such as ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen, indopropfen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, tioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen, and tiaprofenic; and

10 6) the pyrazoles, such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenbutazone, feprazone, azapropazone, and trimethazone.

Mixtures of these non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents may also be employed, as well as the dermatologically acceptable salts and esters of these agents. For example, etofenamate, a flufenamic acid derivative, is particularly useful for topical application. Of the nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents, ibuprofen, naproxen, flufenamic acid, etofenamate, aspirin, mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, piroxicam and felbinac are preferred; ibuprofen, naproxen, etofenamate, aspirin and flufenamic acid are most preferred.

Finally, so-called “natural” anti-inflammatory agents are useful in methods of the subject invention. Such agents may suitably be obtained as an extract by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural sources (e.g., plants, fungi, by-products of microorganisms). For example, candelilla wax, alpha bisabolol, aloe vera, Manjistha (extracted from plants in the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia Cordifolia), and Guggal (extracted from plants in the genus Commiphora, particularly Commiphora Mukul), kola extract, chamomile, and sea whip extract, may be used.

Additional anti-inflammatory agents useful herein include compounds of the Licorice (the plant genus/species Glycyrrhiza glabra) family, including glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and derivatives thereof (e.g., salts and esters). Suitable salts of the foregoing compounds include metal and ammonium salts. Suitable esters include C₂-C₂₄saturated or unsaturated esters of the acids, preferably C₁₀-C₂₄, more preferably C₁₆-C₂₄. Specific examples of the foregoing include oil soluble licorice extract, the glycyrrhizic and glycyrrhetic acids themselves, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium glycyrrhizinate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1-beta-glycyrrhetic acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, and 3-stearyloxy-glycyrrhetinic acid, and disodium 3-succinyloxy-beta-glycyrrhetinate. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate is preferred.

C. Sunscreens and Sunblocks

Exposure to ultraviolet light can result in excessive scaling and texture changes of the stratum corneum. Therefore, the compositions of the subject invention preferably contain a sunscreen or sunblock. Suitable sunscreens or sunblocks may be organic or inorganic.

A wide variety of conventional sunscreening agents are suitable for use herein. Sagarin, et al., at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology (1972), discloses numerous suitable agents, and is incorporated herein by reference. Specific suitable sunscreening agents include, for example: p-aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); anthranilates (i.e., o-amino-benzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); salicylates (amyl, phenyl, octyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and di-pro-pyleneglycol esters); cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, a-phenyl cinnamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate); dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone); trihydroxy-cinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin and daphnin); hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of 2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic and of 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids); di-hydroxynaphthoic acid and its salts; o- and p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenyl benzoxazole, methyl naphthoxazole, various aryl benzothiazoles); quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and tannate); quinoline derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salts, 2-phenylquinoline); hydroxy- or methoxy-substituted benzophenones; uric and violuric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (e.g., hexaethylether); (butyl carbotol) (6-propyl piperonyl) ether; hydroquinone; benzophenones (oxybenzene, sulisobenzone, dioxybenzone, benzoresorcinol, 2,2′,4,4′-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone, octabenzone; 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane; butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; etocrylene; octocrylene; [3-(4′-methylbenzylidene bornan-2-one) and 4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane.

Of these, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOL MCX), 4,4′-t-butyl methoxydibenzoyl-methane (commercially available as PARSOL 1789), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxy-propyl))aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl-salicylate, glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-tri-methylcyclohexylsalicylate, methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl-aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)5-sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid, octocrylene and mixtures of these compounds, are preferred.

More preferred organic sunscreens useful in the compositions useful in the subject invention are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoyl-methane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene and mixtures thereof.

Also particularly useful in the compositions are sunscreens such as those disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,937,370 issued to Sabatelli on Jun. 26, 1990, and U.S. Pat. No. 4,999,186 issued to Sabatelli & Spirnak on Mar. 12, 1991, both of which are incorporated herein by reference. The sunscreening agents disclosed therein have, in a single molecule, two distinct chromophore moieties which exhibit different ultra-violet radiation absorption spectra. One of the chromophore moieties absorbs predominantly in the UVB radiation range and the other absorbs strongly in the UVA radiation range.

Preferred members of this class of sunscreening agents are 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone; N,N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone; 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)-methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane; N,N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone; and N,N-di-2-ethylhexyl)4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof.

Especially preferred sunscreens or sunblocks include butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid, and octocrylene.

A safe and effective amount of the sunscreen or sunblock is used, typically from about 1% to about 20%, more typically from about 2% to about 10%. Exact amounts will vary depending upon the sunscreen chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF).

An agent may also be added to any of the compositions useful in the subject invention to improve the skin substantivity of those compositions, particularly to enhance their resistance to being washed off by water, or rubbed off. A preferred agent which will provide this benefit is a copolymer of ethylene and acrylic acid. Compositions comprising this copolymer are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,663,157, Brock, issued May 5, 1987, which is incorporated herein by reference.

D. Anti-Oxidants/Radical Scavengers

Preferred compositions of the subject invention include an anti-oxidant/radical scavenger. The anti-oxidant/radical scavenger is especially useful for providing protection against UV radiation which can cause increased scaling or texture changes in the stratum corneum and against other environmental agents which can cause skin damage.

A safe and effective amount of an anti-oxidant/radical scavenger may be added to the compositions of the subject invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, of the composition.

Anti-oxidants/radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol, butylated hydroxy benzoic acids and their salts, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available under the tradename Trolox®), gallic acid and its alkyl esters, especially propyl gallate, uric acid and its salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts, amines (e.g., N,N-diethylhydroxylamine, amino-guanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (e.g., glutathione), dihydroxy fumaric acid and its salts, lycine pidolate, arginine pilolate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavonoids, lysine, methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase, silymarin, tea extracts, grape skin/seed extracts, melanin, and rosemary extracts may be used. Preferred anti-oxidants/radical scavengers are selected from tocopherol sorbate and other esters of tocopherol, more preferably tocopherol sorbate. For example, the use of tocopherol sorbate in topical compositions and applicable to the present invention is described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,847,071, issued on Jul. 11, 1989 to Donald L. Bissett, Rodney D. Bush and Ranjit Chatteriee, incorporated herein by reference.

E. Chelators

As used herein, “chelating agent” means an active agent capable of removing a metal ion from a system by forming a complex so that the metal ion cannot readily participate in or catalyze chemical reactions. The inclusion of a chelating agent is especially useful for providing protection against UV radiation which can contribute to excessive scaling or skin texture changes and against other environmental agents which can cause skin damage.

A safe and effective amount of a chelating agent may be added to the compositions of the subject invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, of the composition. Exemplary chelators that are useful herein are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,487,884, issued Jan. 30, 1996 to Bissett et al.; International Publication No. 91/16035, Bush et al., published Oct. 31, 1995; and International Publication No. 91/16034, Bush et al., published Oct. 31, 1995; all incorporated herein by reference. Preferred chelators useful in compositions of the subject invention are furildioxime and derivatives thereof.

F. Organic Hydroxy Acids

Compositions of the present invention may comprise an organic hydroxy acid. Suitable hydroxy acids include C₁-C₁₈hydroxy acids, preferably C₈or below. The hydroxy acids can be substituted or unsubstituted, straight chain, branched chain or cyclic (preferably straight chain), and saturated or unsaturated (mono- or poly- unsaturated) (preferably saturated). Non-limiting examples of suitable hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 5 octanoyl salicylic acid, hydroxyoctanoic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and lanolin fatty acids. Preferred concentrations of the organic hydroxy acid range from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%. Salicylic acid is preferred. The organic hydroxy acids enhance the skin appearance benefits of the present invention. For example, the organic hydroxy acids tend to improve the texture of the skin.

G. Desuamation Agents/Exfoliants

A safe and effective amount of a desquamation agent may be added to the compositions of the subject invention, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 4% of the composition. Desquamation agents enhance the skin appearance benefits of the present invention. For example, the desquamation agents tend to improve the texture of the skin (e.g., smoothness). A variety of desquamation agents are known in the art and are suitable for use herein, including but not limited to the organic hydroxy agents described above. One desquamation system that is suitable for use herein comprises sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in copending application Ser. No. 08/480,632, filed on Jun. 7, 1995 in the name of Donald L. Bissett, corresponding to PCT Application No. U.S. 95/08136, filed Jun. 29, 1995, each incorporated herein by reference. Another desquamation system that is suitable for use herein comprises salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in copending patent application Ser. No. 08/554,944, filed on Nov. 13, 1995 as a continuation of Ser. No. 08/209,401, filed on Mar. 9, 1994 in the name of Bissett, corresponding to PCT Application No. 94/12745, filed Nov. 4, 1994, published May 18, 1995, each incorporated herein by reference. Zwitterionic surfactants such as described in these applications are also useful as desquamatory agents herein, with cetyl betaine being particularly preferred.

H. Skin Lightening Agents

The compositions of the present invention may comprise a skin lightening agent. When used, the compositions preferably comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, of a skin lightening agent. Suitable skin lightening agents include those known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Skin lightening agents suitable for use herein also include those described in copending patent application Ser. No. 08/479,935, filed on Jun. 7, 1995 in the name of Hillebrand, corresponding to PCT Application No. U.S. 95/07432, filed Jun. 12, 1995; and copending patent application Ser. No. 08/390,152, filed on Feb. 24, 1995 in the names of Kalla L. Kvalnes, Mitchell A. DeLong, Barton J. Bradbury, Curtis B. Motley, and John D. Carter, corresponding to PCT Application No. U.S. 95/02809, filed Mar. 1, 1995, published Sep. 8, 1995; all incorporated herein by reference.

I. Skin Conditioners

Preferred compositions of the invention comprise an optional skin conditioning component such as a moisturizers. The skin conditioning component is preferably present at a level of at least about 0.1%, more preferably from about 1% to about 99%, even more preferably from about 1% to about 50%, still more preferably from about 2% to about 30% and most preferably from about 5% to about 25% (e.g., about 5% to about 10% or 15%).

The above listed compounds may be incorporated singly or in combination.

Preparation of Compositions

The compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods such as are known in the art of making topical compositions. Such methods typically involve mixing of the ingredients in one or more steps to a relatively uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, application of vacuum, and the like.

Methods for Regulating Skin Condition

The compositions of the present invention are useful for regulating mammalian skin condition (especially human skin, more especially human facial skin), including visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin, signs of skin aging, and visible and/or tactile discontinuities in skin associated with skin aging (including fine lines, wrinkles, large pores, surface roughness and other texture discontinuities associated with aged skin). Such regulation includes prophylactic and therapeutic regulation.

Regulating skin condition involves topically applying to the skin a safe and effective amount of a composition of the present invention. The amount of the composition which is applied, the frequency of application and the period of use will vary widely depending upon the level of vitamin B₃compound and/or other components of a given composition and the level of regulation desired, e.g., in light of the level of skin aging present in the subject and the rate of further skin aging.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition is chronically applied to the skin. By “chronic topical application” is meant continued topical application of the composition over an extended period during the subject's lifetime, preferably for a period of at least about one week, more preferably for a period of at least about one month, even more preferably for at least about three months, even more preferably for at least about six months, and more preferably still for at least about one year. While benefits are obtainable after various maximum periods of use (e.g., five, ten or twenty years), it is preferred that chronic application continue throughout the subject's lifetime. Typically applications would be on the order of about once per day over such extended periods, however application rates can vary from about once per week up to about three times per day or more.

A wide range of quantities of the compositions of the present invention can be employed to provide a skin appearance and/or feel benefit. Quantities of the present compositions which are typically applied per application are, in mg composition/cm²skin, from about 0.1 mg/cm²to about 10 mg/cm². A particularly useful application amount is about 2 mg/cm².

Regulating skin condition is preferably practiced by applying a composition in the form of a skin lotion, cream, cosmetic, or the like which is intended to be left on the skin for some esthetic, prophylactic, therapeutic or other benefit (i.e., a “leave-on” composition). After applying the composition to the skin, it is preferably left on the skin for a period of at least about 15 minutes, more preferably at least about 30 minutes, even more preferably at least about 1 hour, most preferably for at least several hours, e.g., up to about 12 hours.

EXAMPLES

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Example #1


		Ex #1

	Cetyl Alcohol	0.72
	Stearyl Alcohol	0.48
	Stearic Acid	0.1
	PEG-100 Stearate	0.1
	Araltone 2121	1
	Isopropyl Isostearate	2
	Silicone Q21403	2
	SEFA Cotonate	0.67
	Glycerin	7
	Carbopol 954	0.5
	Carbopol 1382	0.1
	Ti O2	0.75
	Niacinamide	2
	Glydant Plus	0.1
	EDTA	0.1

Skin Hydration Corneometer Units

		3 hours

	Control	81.22
	Example #1	82.74

Hydration Factor

		3 hours

	Example #1	1.52

Example 2


		Ex 2

	Cetyl Palmitate	1.5
	Cetyl Alcohol	2.25
	Stearyl Alcohol	1.5
	Stearic Acid	0.3125
	PEG-100 Stearate	0.3125
	Silicone Wax DC2501	2
	Isopropyl Palmitate	1.25
	DC 3225c	1.875
	Dimethicone 200/350cst	0.625
	Glycerin	10
	Carbopol 954	0.4
	Ti O2	0.75
	Niacinamide	2
	Glydant Plus	0.1
	EDTA	0.1

Corneometer Hydration Results:

		3 Hours

	Control	81.22
	Example #2	84.98

Hydration Factor

		3 Hours

	Example #2	3.76

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A high level hydration skin care composition comprising:

a.) from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the composition of niacinamide;

b.) from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition of an emollient comprising a combination of isopropyl isostearate, cottonseed oil fatty esters of sucrose and polyalkylsiloxanes;

c.) from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition of a humectant comprising glycerin:

d.) from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition of a structuring agent comprising a combination of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, stearic acid and PEG-100 stearate:

e.) from about 0.25% to about 2% by weight of the composition of a thickening agent selected from homopolymers and copolymners of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, lower alkyl esters thereof, and C_10-30alkyl acrylates crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol; and

f.) from about 0.05% to about 1% by weight of the composition of an emulsifier comprising a blend of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate.

2. A composition according to claim 1, further comprising a retinoid.

3. A composition according to claim 2, wherein the retinoid is selected from the group consisting of Vitamin A alcohol, Vitamin A aldehyde, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

4. A method of regulating visible and/or tactile discontinuities in the texture of mammalian skin, comprising applying to the skin of a mammal from about 0.1 mg/cm²to about 10 mg/cm²of a composition according to claim 1.

5. A composition according to claim 1 which further comprises titanium dioxide.

6. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the composition is in the form of emulsions.