US3435786A - Taping sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

April 1969 J. L. ROCKERATH ETAL. 3,435,786

TAPING SEWING MACHINE Filed May a, 1967 Sheet of 6 l JOHN L.ROCKERATH CZJOHN RHAUGAN BY SAW/W W, I 41/2 )RTTORNEYS J. L. ROCKERATH ETAL 3,435,786

A ril 1, 1969 TAPING SEWING MACHINE Sheet Filed May 5, 1 967 INVENTORS JOHN L.. RQCKERATH @JOHN R. HAUGAN mill/W TTOKNEYS April 1, 1969 J. ROCKERATH ETAL 3,435,786

TAPING SEWING MACHINE Filed May 8,1967 Sheet 3 of e J 120 a 3 B6 vill -5:2

ZNVENTORS JOHN LROCKERATH (Ev-JOHN R.- HAUGAN April 1, 1969 J. 1.. ROCKERATH ETAL 3,435,786

TAPING SEWING MACHINE Filed ma a, 1967 Sheet 4 o r a I50 l m lea 0 o 28 IHH 1 INVENTORS JOHN L. ROC KERR TH 5 JQHN R. HAUGQN April 1, 19-69 TAPING SEWING MACHINE Sheet Filed May 8, 1967 S H mT M E R A W E. G 1 A H R. R M wf & 4 9 0 w 2 m BY V 6 fi W Ma April 1969 J. 1.. ROCKERA'YI'H ETAL 3,435,786

TAPING SEWING MACHINE Sheet 01 6 Filed May a,

/Wom G LA K U u CA a! M LR MN N 1 J BY H f m. munhn United States Patent 3,435,786 TAPING SEWING MACHINE John L. Rockerath, Utica, N.Y., and John R. Haugan,

Highland Park, Ill., assignors to Union Special Machine Company, Chicago, 11]., a corporation of Illinois Filed May 8, 1967, Ser. No. 636,781 Int. Cl. D05b 23/00 U.S. Cl. 112-2 34 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE Sewing machine structure wherein provision is made for sewing together two marginal edge portions of two brassiere cups or other fabric bodies and simultaneously applying a cover tape over the joining seam, said marginal edge portions first being presented uprightly with downwardly terminating edges, a stitch line being formed spaced upwardly from an paralleling the edge extremities, then spread apart horizontally and flattened with adjacent fabric body portions lying thereover and thereagainst, and two stitch lines being formed through the tape, the marginal edge portions and said overlying fabric body portions, the first mentioned stitch line being formed by a horizontally reciprocable needle and a cooperating loop taker and the two other stitch lines one disposed at one side and the other at the other side of said first stitch line being formed by two vertically reciprocable needles and cooperating loop takers, this procedure being carried out in the single machine by a single operator.

The invention relates generally to sewing machine structures wherein fabric bodies are seam joined and seam taped and primarily seeks to provide a novel machine wherein a single operator joins brassiere cups and simultaneously undertapes the joining seam.

An object of the invention is to provide a machine of the character stated wherein are included means for presenting the marginal edges of the fabric bodies in uprightly opposed relation with downwardly terminating edge extremities, stitch forming means including a loop taker operable on a vertical axis and a horizontally reciprocable needle for forming a stitch line spaced upwardly from and paralleling the edge extremities of the marginal edge portions and joining said edge portions, means for spreading apart and flattening the edge portions and overlying body fabric portions, means for applying a cover tape over the spread apart edge portions, and stitch forming means including two loop takers arranged side-by-side on vertical axes and spaced along a feed line from the first mentioned loop taker, and two vertically reciprocable needles for forming two stitch lines spaced apart one at each side of the first mentioned stitch line and serving to secure the cover tape to the fabric bodies.

Another object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of the character stated wherein the first mentioned seam joining needle and the second mentioned tape sewing needles are carried by needle bars which are swingable as well as reciprocable so as to impart feeding movement to the seams during the joining and taping operations.

A further object of the invention is to provide sewing machine structure of the character stated wherein intermittently operable roller means also are provided and positioned to pull the taped seam along as the swinging needle bar carried needles are imparting movement to the joining and taped seams.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the character stated wherein the tape applying means is formed to fold over marginal edge portions of the tape onto the body of the tape and present said over- "ice folded marginal edge portions against the overlying spread apart and flattened edge portions of the body fabric portions.

Yet another object of the invention is to provide a machine of the character stated wherein the tape stitching needles are so spaced apart with relation to the spaced and flattened edge portions of the body fabrics as to cause their stitch lines to pass through the folded over marginal edge portions of the tape and the spread apart and flattened edge portions of the body fabrics as well as the underlying non-folded body of the tape.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a machine structure of the character stated wherein the vertically reciprocable tape attaching needle bar and needles and cooperating loop takers comprise parts of the standard sewing machine and the brassiere cup supporting and positioning means, the tape delivery and folding means and the cup joining seam forming horizontally reciprocable needle bar and needle and the cooperating loop taker and drive means therefor form part of an attachment assembly readily mountable on and removable from said standard machine.

Another object of the invention is to provide a machine of the character stated wherein the seam spreading and flattening means includes a divider rib upstanding from a base and two brassiere cup supporting and guiding platforms having inwardly and downwardly turned body fabric margin guiding portions engaging the base uprightly in laterally spaced relation to and paralleling the rib, a lower spreader rib extending from the base and forwardly from the upstanding divider rib and merging into the base through downwardly and outwardly curved wall portions, and a seam divider and flattener plow fixedly supported to present a receiving end at the terminus of the divider rib and to terminate adjacent the delivery end of the lower spreader rib and having an upright seam spreader rib overlying the lower spreader rib in adjacent spaced relation and laterally extending seam flattening wall portions sloping gradually downward toward the end of the plow for gradually flattening the seam as it is being moved along.

Yet another object of the invention is to provide a machine of the character stated wherein the upstanding divider rib has needle passage and stitch line clearing openings at its delivery end and also means for visually indicating to an operator the position at which the join-seam stitching is being effected.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a machine of the character stated wherein the base of the seam spreading and flattening means is mounted in a slideway so that the base, the divider rib and the lower spreader rib can be slid forwardly relative to the platforms and away from the plow to make the sewing area at the location of the horizontally reciprocable needle and its cooperating loop taker readily accessible.

A further object of the invention is to provide in a machine of the character stateid opposed throat plate and presser foot means cooperable with the fabric feed at the join-seaming single needle and loop taker position, means being included for giving the presser foot limited movement toward and from the throat plate to permit the fabric to feed more easily between the presser foot and throat plate and yet provide suflicient pressure against the fabrics at the precise moment that a thread loop is being formed for entry by the hook point of the loop taker in order to assure against skip stitching, and the presser foot and throat plate also being shaped to present minimal frictional resistance to passage of fabrics therebetween.

With the above and other objects in view that will hereinafter appear, the nature of the invention will be more clearly understood by reference to the following detailed description, the appended claims and the several views illustrated in the accompanying drawings.

In the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is a front elevational view illustrating a machine structure embodying the invention, parts being broken away and in section.

FIGURE 2 is a horizontal section taken on the line 2-2 on FIGURE 1, parts being broken away to illustrate the loop takers at the tape stitching position.

FIGURE 3 is a left end elevation of the machine structure of FIGURE 1, the sewing head being shown in elevation and the lower portion of the machine being shown in vertical cross section substantially on the line 3-3 on FIGURE 2.

FIGURE 4 is a detail horizontal sectional view taken on the line 44 n FIGURE 1.

FIGURE 5 is a fragmentary vertical cross sectional view taken on the line 5-5 on FIGURE 2.

FIGURE 6 is an enlarged elevational view of the adjustment indicia bearing slotted arm of FIGURES 4 and 5.

FIGURE 7 is a perspective view illustrating the seam opening and flattening plow.

FIGURE 8 is a front elevation of the plow of FIG- URE 7.

FIGURE 9 is a side elevation of the plow of FIGURES 7 and 8.

EIGURE 10 is an enlarged perspective view illustrating the tape folding and directing member and its mounting bracket.

FIGURE 11 is a rear elevation illustrating the feeding roller and actuating device therefor.

FIGURE 12 is a left side elevation of the parts shown in FIGURE 11.

FIGURE 13 is a horizontal sectional view taken through the join-seaming attachment, the section being taken substantially on the line 13-13 on FIGURE 1.

FIGURE 14 is an enlarged fragmentary plan view illustrating the positioning of the loop taker, the cooperating horizontally reciprocable needle, the throat plate and the presser foot at the join-seaming position.

FIGURE 15 is an enlarged detail vertical cross section taken on the line 1515 on FIGURE 13.

FIGURE 16 is a section similar to FIGURE 15 taken on the line 16-16 on FIGURE 13.

FIGURE 17 is a perspective view illustrating the slide and the upstanding rib and lower seam opening Il'lb.

FIGURE 18 is an enlarged fragmentary vertical section taken through the slide and the overlying plow near the delivery ends thereof and slightly in advance of the position of the tape stitching station.

FIGURE 19 is an enlarged vertical cross section illustrating the initial positioning of the brassiere cups with their terminal margins downwardly turned against the center rib of the slide.

FIGURE 20 is an enlarged fragmentary section showing the brassiere cups after join-seaming thereof.

FIGURE 21 is a view similar to FIGURE 20 showing the seam being gradually opened by the plow and the underlying or lower seam opening rib.

FIGURE 22 is a view similar to FIGURE 21 showing continuation of the seam opening after the tape has been fed into proper position and in folded condition under the slide.

FIGURE 23 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view illustrating completion of the taped seam.

While the present invention is directed particularly to the assembly by taped central seaming, of the two cups which combine in the making up of a brassiere, it is to be understood that the sewing machine structure herein disclosed may be employed in the formation of taped seams for various other uses. The practice herein disclosed will be recognized as combining in a simultaneous operation what has heretofore normally required two separate and distinct operations, usually by two operators.

Formerly, it was necessary for an operator to joinseam the two brassiere cups on a single needle lock stitch sewing machine. The assembled cups were then picked up in bundles and delivered to a second operator who then attached the tape by suitable other machine operations. The second operator used a two needle lock stitch machine similar to the Well known Union Special 62200 machine and wherein the presser foot had to be supplied with a plow device and the tape had to be delivered on top of the seam. It was also necessary for the operator continuously to spread the join-seam with her fingers. Then, she also had to attempt manual guiding of the spread or flattened seam so that its center would come directly under the center of the plow device of the presser foot. This operation was not easily performed, and unsightly seamed brassieres which could be sold only as seconds or not at all, very frequently resulted.

In the example of embodiment of the invention herein disclosed, the claimed sewing machine structure is made up of the well known Union Special style 62200 G20 machine which employs two needles carried by a vertically reciprocable needle bar, this machine being generally designated 10, and an attachment generally designated 11 and which is equipped with a horizontally reciprocating needle, a cooperating loop taker, work supporting platform means and novel seam assembling and controlling devices is attached to the standard machine 10 in a manner permitting convenient mounting and removal. The 62200 G-20 machine herein referred to is illustrated in the Union Special Patents 2,329,484, 2,765,759 and 2,830,550 and attention also is directed to the Union Special Patent 2,749,861 which illustrates in detail needle driving means and needle carrier swinging means of in terest in the present disclosure.

In the present disclosure, the work, or in other words, the brassiere cups which are being assembled are moved along by the needles which perform the join-seaming and taping operations, and a roller puller means generally designated 12 also is employed for intermittently moving the taped seam. These feeding operations will be described in detail hereinafter.

Referring to FIGURES l, 2 and 3 it will be observed that the standard machine 10 is a two needle machine, the two needles being spaced at 20 gage or 7 apart from the center line of one needle to the center line of the other. The needles 13 are supported in a needle holder 14 which in turn is secured to a needle bar 15. Endwise reciprocatory movement, and also work feeding swinging movement is imparted to the needle bar 15 in any well known manner, an acceptable example of such means being shown in the previously mentioned Patent 2,749,861.

Arranged to cooperate with the needles 13 in the stitch formation below the base or cloth plate 16 is a pair of rotary hooks 17 mounted on vertical axes and driven from the bed shaft 18 shown in FIGURES 2 and 3. A spiral gear 19 secured to each hook shaft (not shown) and driven by a spiral gear 20 on the driven shaft 18 imparts rotation to the respective hooks 17 at twice the speed of said driven shaft. As is well known, the rotary hooks make two complete revolutions for each complete reciprocation of the needle bar 15. The standard sewing machine generally designated 10 includes the usual presser foot 21 and throat plate 22 in order to provide the necessary stitching instrumentalities.

Reference will now be made to the attachment unit for join-seaming the two pieces of fabric, in this particular illustration the two brassiere cups which are seamed and taped according to the present invention. This attachment structure is shown in FIGURES 1, 2 and 3 in its standard machine mounted combination, and in greater detail in the remainder of the figures, especially FIG- URES 5, '8 to 10 and 13 through 18.

In this disclosure, the attachment unit generally designated 11 is shown as comprised of a housing 23 which is attached at the front to the 'base plate of the beforementioned 62200 class standard machine by means of bolts 24, the horizontal needle bar 25 and a rotary hook or loop taker 26 and, of course, the corresponding driving mechanisms for each. A presser foot mechanism which reciprocates endwise slightly in coordination with the needle also is included and later reference in greater detail will be made to this presser foot equipment.

A spiral gear 27 is suitably secured, as by screws 28, on the driven or bed shaft 18 of the standard machine, its purpose being to drive the components in the attachment unit 11. The spiral gear 27 drives a spiral gear 29 and therethrough imparts rotation to the vertically disposed needle bar driving shaft 30. To the bottom of the shaft 30 is attached a toothed gear 31 which drives a toothed timing belt 32. A vertical hook shaft 33 located at the left hand side of the housing 23 is fitted at its upper end with the previously mentioned rotary hook or loop taker 26, said hook shaft 33 also carrying a driven toothed gear 34 at its lower end, as clearly illustrated in FIG- URES 1 and 2 of the drawings. It is to be understood that the toothed gear 34 has twice the peripheral speed of the toothed gear 31 since the loop taker 26 must make two revolutions for each revolution of the vertical shaft 30.

From the foregoing, it will be apparent that as the hand wheel, and, of course, the bed shaft 18 are driven by the usual electrodrive or transmitter (not shown), the standard machine 10 begins to sew, and simultaneously the shaft 30 will be set into motion. The shaft 30 drives the toothed gear 31, timing belt 32, toother gear 34 and of course, the shaft 33. The shafts 30 and 33 are, therefore, in precisely timed relationship with one another.

The vertical shaft 30 is fitted at its top portion with a counter weighted crank 35 which forms part of a means for reciprocating the horizontal needle bar 25. Attached to the counter-weighted crank is a crank pin 36, the lower end 37 of which is secured in the counter-weighted crank by screw means 38. The upper portion 39 of the crank pin 36 is located in a needle bearing 40 which is press fitted into one end 41 of a needle bar driving pitman 42. The other end 43 of the pit-man 42 is pivotally attached to a needle bar clamp 44 which is adjustably clamped to the needle bar 25 by means of the separate clamping portion and the tightening screw 45-.

As will be readily apparent, as the needle bar drive shaft 30 is rotated, it imparts rotation to the counterweighted crank 35 which in turn oscillates the pitman 42. By reference to FIGURE 1 it will be apparent that the needle bar 25 is reciprocated in an endwise horizontal direction in timed relation to the loop taker 26. It is to be understood that the needle bar 25 may be adjusted and bodily moved by loosening the screw 45 so that the point of the needle N may be positioned a greater or lesser distance away from the loop taker 26. As is well known in the art, the use of the rotary hook or loop taker is adjusted so that it is in a precise location with respect to the thread eye of the needle, this being well known adjusting in any lock stitch sewing machine.

As previously mentioned, the needle bar 25 is swung in the direction of feed of the work, or in other words, the join-seam of the brassiere cups and the action of the needle serves not only to effect the join-seaming but also to feed the fabric.

By reference to FIGURES l and 13, it will be apparent that the needle bar 25 reciprocates in the needle bar carrier 46 which is pivotally supported by a stud 47. In order to impart the lateral motion or needle feed action to the needle bar 25 the needle bar carrier 46 is provided with an offset extension 48 caryring a pivot screw 49 by means of which one end of a horizontal link 50 is pivotally connected to the needle bar carrier. The opposite end of the link 50 is pivotally conected to an arm 51 secured to a rock shaft '52. The rock shaft 52 is positioned with respect to height by means of a collar 53 so as to prevent bind in the shaft, and the shaft is journalled in a bearing sleeve 54 in the housing 23.

The lower end of the rock shaft 52 has secured thereon an arm 55, by means of a split clamping portion having a tightening screw 56. The arm 55 has an elongated arcuate slot 57 therein, as best shown in FIGURE. 4, and a bolt 58 passes through said slot and can be adjusted to selected positions therein, the adjusted positions being secured by a clamp nut 59. The bolt 58 coperates with a sleeve 60 surrounding the shank of the bolt and serves to clamp the arm '55 between the head of the bolt and the sleeve 60. Pivotally mounted on the sleeve 60 is one end of a pitman 61 which has a strap 62 surrounding an eccentric 63. A needle bearing 64 is provided between the strap 62 and the eccentric 63, and, of course, the eccentric 63 is secured by set screws 65 on the shaft 30. See FIGURES 1 and 4. A groove 66 is provided in the shaft 30 so that the screw 65 may be loosened in order to time the eccentric properly, and yet not have the eccentric drop down from its proper position as shown in FIGURE 1. A needle bearing retention coller 67 completes the assembly and is secured to the shaft 30 by means of screws 68.

It will be apparent by reference to FIGURES 5 and 6 that the arm '55 has certain indicia 69 thereon which, in coperation with the indicator line 70 on the bolt 58, serves to indicate the degree of lateral or work feeding motion of the needle bar for which the parts have been adjusted. It will be apparent that the nearer the bolt 58 in the arcuate slot 57 of the arm is adjusted to the rock shaft 52 the greater will be the feed motion imparted to the needle bar 25 and its attached needle N, and conversely the further the bolt 58 is adjusted away from the rock shaft 52 the lesser will be the lateral movement or feed motion.

Attention is now directed to the presser foot and presser bar equipment best illustrated in FIGURE 13. It is to be understood that the presser foot 71 is given approximately motion to and from the opposing throat plate 72 in order for the fabric to feed more easily between the presser foot and the throat plate and yet provide sufiicient pressure against the fabrics at the precise moment that a thread loop is being formed at the needle for entry by the hook point of the loop taker 26 in order to prevent flagging or skip stitching. As is well known, a skip stitch is one in which the hook did not enter the needle thread loop and therefore did not form a proper stitch. The presser foot 71 is attached to a presser bar 73 at one end by means of a screw 74. At the other end of the presser bar a presser bar guide 75 is attached by means of a screw 76. The presser bar guide 75 is aligned in a guide slot 77 provided in the block 78, and this guide and slot provision permits endwise movement of the presser bar without permitting it to turn, even slightly on its axis. A spring 79 rests against a fixed bushing 80 through which the presser bar 73 is movable and exerts a spring pressure against the guide 75 so that when the needle N moves away from the loop taker the presser foot 71 is also moved away from the throat plate 72 and the fabrics. A stop screw 81 limits the amount of movement of the presser foot away from the fabric, as will be apparent by reference to FIGURE 13.

A presser foot presser means 82 is secured at one of its ends by screw means 83 to the needle end of the needle bar 25. At the other end of the presser means an aperture 84 is provided which permits the presser means 82 to move back and forth on a guide pin 85 attached to the presser foot sole plate 86. A compression spring 87 surrounding the guide pin 85 is interposed between the presser means 82 and the sole plate 86 and is designed to serve a purpose of imparting movement to the presser foot, as will soon be explained.

Referring again to FIGURE 13, it will be apparent that as the needle bar 25 begins moving away from its position nearest the opposing throat plate 72, the presser foot presser means 82 also moves away from the spring 87 and begins to relieve the compression of said spring and the pressure on the sole plate 86. This motion continues until the spring 79 exerts a greater pressure against the guide 75 than is exerted by the spring 87 against the presser means 82, permitting the presser foot 71 to move away from the fabric the required amount. As the needle bar reaches the end of its stroke, the spring 87 is completely relaxed and the presser foot presser means 82 is out of contact with the spring 87.

The needle bar 25 now begins its return motion in the reverse direction toward the loop taker 26, the presser foot presser means 82 again contacts the spring 87 and forces it toward the presser foot sole plate 86 until the pressure exerted against the sole plate is greater than that exerted by the spring 79 against the guide 75. This again brings the presser foot sole plate 86 against the fabric and applies sufiicient pressure against the fabric so that a stitch may be formed without skipping.

The herein described part designing and arrangement in the presser bar mechanism is particularly advantageous in permitting easy feeding of the fabric while in the joinseaming unit or attachment. Conventional feed dog means is not employed to move the fabric past the needle in this unit, and the fabric must be moved by the swinging or feeding movement of the needle at this time, as previously described. The presser foot sole plate 86 must press against the fabric until the point of the looper is safely in the needle loop cast by the needle within the first /a" to travel of the needle away from the rotary hook or loop taker. When the presser foot begins to release its pressure against the fabric the lateral or feeding movement of the needle can very easily move the fabric.

It is to be understood that in the practical operation of the machine structure, arrangement is made so that whenever the machine stops the needle at this time will be in a slightly up position from its most projected position with respect to the loop taker, thus to assure that the presser foot is properly spaced away from the fabric positioning devices soon to be described. In this arrangement, the operator can now use the needle at this time, or the position thereof, as a locating device for lining up both brassiere cups before she starts the sewing operation. This has been found to be a very advantageous arrangement. In this particular operation of tape seam assembling brassiere cups, it is very necessary that each of the cups is perfectly aligned so that each brassiere pair or cup complement proceeds through the machine in perfectly aligned relation. Both brassiere cups must start together and finish together, and if the finished brassiere is not produced in this manner, it will not be perfect and must be rejected or sold as a second rate product at reduced price.

In proceeding with the practice made possible by the development of the herein disclosed machine structure, the operator picks up from two separated bundles a left-hand cup unit 88 and a right hand cup unit 89. These units are placed on the unit attachment generally designated 11, one on the left hand platform 90 thereof and the other on the right hand platform 91 thereof as indicated in FIGURE 19, bringing the inside edges of the fabric cups inwardly over the inwardly and downwardly curved portions of the platforms at opposite sides of the center rib 92 and with the lower edge extremities against the slid ably mounted base 93 of the attachment. The operator then simultaneously moves the cups 88 and 89 toward the needle end until she feels the front edge of each cup unit, or rather the marginal fabric portion thereof, engage the needle, at which time she follows with the necessary step of bringing about application of even pressure against both cups feeding them into the machine so that they start and proceed in unison.

In FIGURES 19 through 23 the progressive steps in forming a completed and taped brassiere cup joining and taped seam are illustrated. The initial placement of the brassiere cups with their downwardly directed terminal edges of the fabric bodies engaging the slide or base 93 being shown in FIGURE 19, the formation of the joinseam stitching and initial part of the seam opening or flattening being shown in FIGURE 20, two steps in progress of said opening or flattening being shown in FIGURES 21 and 22, the introduction of the cover tape with its marginal edges folded over on its body also being indicated in FIGURE 22, and the complete taped seam being illustrated in FIGURE 23. The join-seam stitching is indicated at 94 in FIGURES 20, 21 and 22.

The seam controlling parts forming a part of the attachment include the previously mentioned platforms and 91, the sliding base 93 and the center rib 92 upstanding therefrom. To each of the platforms 90 and 91 blocks 95 and 96 have been secured, as by soldering. By means of counter sunk screws 97 the platforms are attached to the sliding base 93, the screws passing through holes 98 and into the blocks. It will be apparent by reference to FIGURE 19 that the downwardly and inwardly turned portions of the platforms 90 and 91 are received in grooves 99 and 100 in the base slide 93.

The form and arrangement of the platforms and the slide and mountings thereof will be best apparent by reference to FIGURES l, 2, 3 and 13 through 18 of the drawings. It will be apparent by reference to FIGURE 3 that the center rib 92 is provided with a cup positioning indicator notch 101, the same being disposed directly over a needle passage opening 102 formed laterally through the rib to permit needle passage, and this opening is continued through the end extremity of the rib as at 103 to permit the join-seam stitching line to pass out through the end of the rib during feeding of the fabrics.

By reference to FIGURES 13, 14 and 17 it will be observed that a lower seam spreader or seam buster 104 is integrally attached to the base 93 and rib and extends forwardly therefrom, having a gradually downwardly sloping ridge portion 105 merging into the base extension through gradually sloping curved areas 106 and 107 each to one side of the center rib 105. See also FIGURES 20, 21 and 22. A finger piece 108 is attached to the sliding base 93 by means of screws 109 received in tapped holes 110 in the base. The finger piece fits into a clearance provided for its mounting in the bottom of said base.

Slide guides 111 and 112 are attached by screws 113 to a base 114 secured to the housing 23 by means of bolts 115. It will be apparent by reference to FIGURES 13, 15 and 16 that the slide guides are adjustable in order to tighten or loosen the sliding operation. In FIGURE 3 there is shown a spring 116 pressing against a detent member 117 confined within an adjustable screw 118 and held in place by a lock nut 119. This detent is engaged in one or the other of two receiving recesses formed in the bottom of the base 93 in order to retain the slide in its operative position illustrated in FIGURE 3 or in an outwardly retracted position in which the slide extension is with drawn so as to provide clearance for threading the needle N and to replace the bobbin thread in the loop taker 26.

Cooperating with the upstanding rib and the lower seam buster or spreader rib is an upper plow or upper seam buster 120 having for its purpose the control of the sewed fabric in relation to the lower seam buster, as schematically illustrated in FIGURES 19 through 22. Between the upper and lower seam busters a slight space is provided to permit the join-seam to pass therethrough, as clearly illustrated in FIGURES 20, 21 and 22. The upper seam buster or plow 120 is attached to one end of a rod 121 (FIGURES 1 and 3) by means of screws 122. The other end of the rod 121 is attached to a connector 123 which in turn is connected to one end of a second rod 124, the other end of which is connected to one end of a second connector 125. The other end of the second connector is connected to one end of a third rod 126, the other end of which is secured on the head base 127 attached to the sewing head cover 128 of the standard machine 10 by means of shoulder screws 129.

It will be observed by reference to FIGURES 1, 3 and 7 to 9 that the plow 120 has a receiving end disposed at the end of the upstanding divider rib 92 and itself has a depending upright spreader rib 130 overlying the lower spreader rib in adjacent spaced relation, and two laterally extending seam flattening wall portions 131 sloping gradually downward toward the delivery end of the plow which is disposed proximate to the tape seaming position, extending under the receiving end of the presser foot 21.

It will be apparent that should it be so desired, the plow may be swung up away from the attachment and the tape seaming position about the axis of the rod 124 to an outof-the-way position.

A tape folder 133 best shown in FIGURES 1, 3 and is attached through its bracket 134 and by means of screws 135 to the underside of the base or cloth plate 16. The delivery end of the folder delivers the tape through a slot 136 extending through the base or cloth plate. The tape is threaded into the receiving or entrance end 137 of the folder and while passing through the folder is folded into the shape clearly illustrated in FIGURES 18 and 23. The delivery end 138 of the folder projects into the slot 136, and the tape is guided out of the delivery end into the slot 136 breaking over one edge of the slot, and thence into the groove 139 in the work plate and into an aligned groove 140 in the throat plate. Thus, the tape is perfectly guided and controlled as to shape and size.

The joined brassiere cups and the folded cover tape pass under the presser foot 21 and the latter is fitted with a spring 141 having its free end portion engaged downwardly against the upturned receiving end portion of the presser foot, thus to yieldably hold the toe of the foot down, and yet allow the foot to lift over each joined brassiere cup assembly seam passing thereunder.

A longitudinal spring member 142 (FIGURE 14) is attached by a screw 143 to the block 144 on the housing 23, said block being secured on the housing by screws 145. This spring 142 has for its purpose to maintain the joinseamed brassiere cups against the previously described upstanding rib.

It will be observed by reference to FIGURE 14 that the throat plate 72 has a limited area protuberance 146 projecting in opposition to a similar protuberance 147 on the opposing sole plate 86. These protuberances are arranged opposite each other to provide minimal frictional resistance to passage of the fabrics therebetween.

A plate 148 (FIGURE 2) is attached by screws 149 to the block 144 attached to the housing 23 and plate 150 is attached by screws 151 to a block 152 secured to said housing. This permits the join-seamed brassiere cups, as they leave the attachment, to proceed downward (FIG- URE 5) to be laid under the presser foot 21 of the standard machine.

A bobbin case holder positioning member 153 is provided, as best shown in FIGURE 14, the same being adjustably held in place by screw and slot means 154, said holder having a projection 155 thereon serving to prevent the bobbin case holder from rotating.

The previously mentioned tape puller or feed means generally designated 12 forms no part of the present invention except in its particular combination with mechanisms herein described. This puller feed means is best illustrated in FIGURES 3, 11 and 12 of the drawings. It comprises a one way clutch 156 driven from a rock shaft 157, which by means of a linkage 158 drives a second rock shaft 159 which in turn, through linkage 160, drives the one way clutch in the desired intermittent feeding or step-by-step manner. A third shaft 161 connected with the one way clutch to rotate in only one direction drives the lower puller roll 162 secured on the shaft 161 by screw means 163. The driven roll 162 is opposed by the upper spring pressed idler roll 164 as best shown in FIGURE 3.

In FIGURE 1 there is included a schematic showing of the introduction of the seam stitching threads. The joinseaming thread enters the machine at 165 and is passed about a conventional tensioning device 166 and through guides 167, thence through a conventionally operated thread take-up lever 168 and thence over fixed guides 169 10 and under the work supporting platform means to the needle N as indicated at 170. The two tape stitching threads enter the machine at 171, pass about conventional tensioning devices 172 and guides 173, then through the seam thread take-up lever 168 and thence to the two needles 1313 as at 174.

In the foregoing, there is disclosed a simple and efficient sewing machine structure wherein a single operator can join brassiere cups and cover tape the join-seam simultaneously. With the two operations being accomplished simultaneously in the machine structure, not only is one operator saved, but handling between the joining and taping operations also is eliminated. By reason of the provision of the controlling and guiding devices herein disclosed, the joining seam is consistently centered between the two needles which attach the tapes, and thus quality is improved. In addition, automatic feeding of the joined brassiere halves or cups reduces puckering and distortion such as results from previously practiced manual handling.

While preferred structure forms and part arrangements are disclosed herein, it is to be understood that variations in part structure and arrangement may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims.

We claim:

1. In a sewing machine, means for presenting marginal edge portions of two fabric bodies in uprightly opposed relation with downwardly terminating edge extremities, stitch forming means including a loop taker operable on a vertical axis and a horizontally reciprocable needle for forming a stitch line spaced upwardly from and parallelling the edge extremities of said marginal edge portions and joining said edge portions, means for spreading apart and flattening said edge portions and overlying body fabric portions, means for applying a cover tape over said spread apart edge portions, and stitch forming means including two loop takers arranged side-by-side on vertical axes and spaced along a feed line from said first mentioned loop taker and two vertically reciprocable needles for forming two stitch lines spaced apart one at each side of said first mentioned stitch line and serving to secure the cover tape to the fabric bodies.

2. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein said two needles are carried in side-by-side relation on a common needle bar which is swingable as well as reciprocable, said horizontally reciprocable needle also being carried on a needle bar which is swingable as well as reciprocable, said two needles carried in side-by-side relation, thus being effective in imparting feeding movement to the taped seam during the sewing on of the tape.

3. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein said two needles are carried in side-by-side relation on a common needle bar which is swingable as well as reciprocable, said horizontally reciprocable needle also being carried on a needle bar which is swingable as well as reciprocable, said two needles carried in side-by-side relation thus being effective in imparting feeding movement to the taped seam during the sewing on of the tape, and wherein there also is included intermittently operable opposed roller means engaging the taped seam and effective to pull the same along as the swinging needle bar carried needles are imparting movement thereto.

4. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein said two needles are carried in side-by-side relation on a common needle bar which is swingable as well as reciprocable, said horizontally reciprocable needle also being carried on a needle bar which is swingable as well as reciprocable, said two needles carried in side-by-side relation, thus being effective in imparting feeding movement to the taped seam during the sewing on of the tape, said two needles being so spaced with relation to said spread and flattened edge portions as to cause their stitch lines to pass through said edge portions as Well as the underlying tape and the overlying fabric bodies.

5. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein the tape applying means is formed to fold over marginal edge portions of the tape onto the body of the tape and present said overfolded marginal edge portions against the overlying spread apart and flattened edge portions of the body fabric portions.

6. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein the tape applying means is formed to fold over marginal edge portions of the tape onto the body of the tape and present said overfolded marginal edge portions against the overlying spread apart and flattened edge portions of the body fabric portions, said two needles carried in side-by-side relation being so spaced with relation to said spread apart and flattened edge portions of the body fabrics as to cause their stitch lines to pass through said folded over marginal edge portions of the tape and said spread apart and flattened edge portions of the body fabrics as well as the underlying non-folded body of the tape.

7. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein the spreading apart and flattening means includes a divider rib upstanding from a base and two body fabric supporting and guiding platforms having inwardly and downwardly turned body fabric margin guiding portions engaging the base uprightly in laterally spaced relation to and paralleling said rib arranged in advance of the position of the horizontal needle bar and the cooperating single loop taker, a lower spreader rib extending from the base and forwardly from said rib and merging into the base through downwardly and outwardly curved wall portions to a position adjacent the two side-by-side loop takers, and a divider plow fixedly supported to present a receiving end at the terminus of the divider rib and to terminate adjacent the delivery end of said lower spreader rib and having an upright spreader rib overlying the lower spreader rib in adjacent spaced relation and laterally extending seam flattening wall portions sloping gradually downward toward the delivery end of the plow.

8. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein the divider rib has an opening therethrough for needle passage and extending through the delivery end thereof to permit stitch clearance therethrough.

9. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein there is included a longitudinally extending spring means engageable with a body fabric being fed to hold it against a side wall of the divider rib of the plow during sewing together of the body fabrics.

10. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 8 wherein there is included a longitudinally extending spring means engageable with a body fabric being fed to hold it against a side wall of the divider rib of the plow during sewing together of the body fabrics.

11. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein the base is mounted in a slideway so that the base with its divider rib and lower spreader rib can be slid away relative to the platforms and from the plow to make the sewing area at the location of the horizontally reciprocable needle and its cooperating loop taker readily accessible.

12. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 11 wherein the plow also is readily swingable upwardly out of said sewing area.

13. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein the tape applying means is disposed to deliver the tape upwardly into the feed line under the plow.

14. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein the tape applying means is formed to fold over marginal edge portions of the tape onto the body of the tape and is disposed to deliver the tape upwardly into the feed line under the plow and place said overfolded marginal edge portions against the overlying spread apart and flattened edge portions of the body fabric portions.

15. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein the divider rib has an opening therethrough for needle passage and extending through the delivery end thereof to permit stitch clearance therethrough, said rib 12' having thereon a visual indicator readily viewable by an operator of the machine and disposed over the rib opening where the needle passes therethrough.

16. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein the vertically reciprocable needle bar and needles and cooperating loop takers comprise parts of a standard sewing machine and the fabric body supporting and positioning means, the tape applying means and the seam forming horizontally reciprocable needle bar and needle and the cooperating loop taker and drive means therefor form part of an attachment assembly readily mountable on and removable from the standard sewing machine.

17. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein there are included opposed throat plate and presser foot means cooperable with the fabric feed at the join-seaming single needle and loop taker position, means being included for giving the presser foot limited movement toward and from the throat plate to permit the fabric to feed more easily between the presser foot throat plate and yet provide sufficient pressure against the fabrics at the precise moment that a thread loop is being formed for entry by the hook point of the loop taker in order to assure against skip stitching.

18. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein there are included opposed throat plate and presser foot means cooperable with the fabric feed at the join-seaming single needle and loop taker position, means being included for giving the presser foot limited movement toward and from the throat plate to permit the fabric to feed more easily between the presser foot throat plate and yet provide sufficient pressure against the fabrics at the precise moment that a thread loop is being formed for entry by the hook point of the loop taker in order to assure against skip stitching, said pressser foot and throat plate including opposing small area fabric engaging protuberances effective to present minimal frictional resistance to passage of fabrics therebetween.

19. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 17 wherein the presser foot is carried on a presser bar and wherein there are included spring means constantly tending to move the presser bar in a direction for moving the presser foot away from the throat plate, stop means limiting said movement away, a presser foot presser member movable with the needle bar, and a compression spring interposed between the presser foot and the presser member and effective upon imposition of a predetermined compression thereof to impart the desired movement of the presser foot toward the throat plate.

20. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 19 wherein the stop means limiting said movement away of ber being the part engageable as stop means with said stop screw.

21. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 19 wherein the stop means limiting said movement away of the presser foot comprises an adjustably mounted stop screw, there also being included a guide member projecting laterally from the presser bar and guided in a longitudinal slotway to guide movement of the presser bar and prevent turning thereof about it axis, said guide member being the part enaggeable as stop means with said stop screw.

22. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 21 wherein the presser bar is slidable in a bracket having the slotway in which the guide member is guided, the stop screw being mounted on said bracket and projecting into said slotway.

23. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 18 wherein the presser foot and throat plate protuberances are apertured to permit needle passage therethrough, the associated loop taker also having associated therewith a bobbin case holder, and there being included an adjustably supported positioning finger having a projection engaging with the bobbin case holder and formed and positioned to hold the same from rotating and yet permit the needle threaded to enter and leave the opening between the pro- 13 jection and opening in the holder so that the needle thread can go around the ibobbin case holder.

24. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 2 wherein the horizontally disposed needle bar is reciprocable in a guide supported on a pivot stud, there also being included a rotary drive shaft, crank and pitman means for imparting reciprocation to the needle bar from said drive shaft, and an eccentric and strap and crank and rock shaft crank and link means for imparting a swinging motion to said needle bar guide from said drive shaft.

25. A sewing machine structure having three loop takers a substantially vertically reciprocable needle bar carrying needles cooperable with two of said loop takers, and a substantially horizontally reciprocable needle bar carrying a needle cooperable with the third of said loop takers and arranged together with the third 100p taker in front of said vertically reciprocable needle bar and the two cooperating loop takers.

26. A sewing machine structure as defined in claim 25 wherein movement in a work feeding direction is imparted to the two needle bars whereby the needle bar carried needles while engaging in work pieces will impart feeding movement thereto during stitching operations.

27. A sewing machine structure as defined in claim 25 wherein there is included puller feed means disposed behind the location of the cooperating two loop takers, and needle bars.

28. A sewing machine structure as defined in claim 26 wherein there is included puller feed means disposed behind the location of the cooperating two loop takers and needle bars.

29. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 25 wherein there are included means for presenting opposed fabric piece margins in substantially vertical position to be join-seamed by action of said horizontally reciprocable needle bar carried needle and the cooperating third loop taker, means for flattening said join-seam, means for applying a cover tape upwardly against the flattened joinseam in position for being stitch line attached to the flattened seam by action of the needles of said vertically reciprocable needle bars and the two loop takers cooperating therewith.

30. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 29 wherein the seam flattening means includes cooperating upper and lower seam busters" and a plow means formed and disposed to gradually flatten the seam as it is approaching the tape stitching needles and cooperating loop takers.

31. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 29 wherein opposing uprightly disposed throat plate means and presser foot means cooperate with the horizontally reciprocable needle and its cooperating loop taker, means being provided for moving the presser foot means toward and away from the throat plate during each reciprocation of said horizontally reciprocable needle.

32. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 29 wherein opposing uprightly disposed throat plate means and presser foot means cooperate with the horizontally reciprocable needle and its cooperating loop taker, means being provided for moving the presser foot means toward and away from the throat plate during each reciprocation of said horizontally reciprocable needle, said throat plate and presser foot carrying small area protuberances opposing each other for engaging in minimal friction contact wtih fabrics passing therebetween.

33. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 29 wherein the cooperating two loop takers and substantially vertically reciprocable needle bars comprise parts of a standard sewing machine and the third substantially horizontally reciprocable needle bar and cooperating loop taker together with the seam flattening means comprise parts of an attachment readily mountable on and removable from said standard sewing machine.

34. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 33 wherein the substantially horizontally reciprocable needle bar and cooperating loop taker are actuated by driving means including driving belt and gear means and having motion imparted thereto from a driven shaft forming a part of the standard machine.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,232,091 7/1917 Ringe 112-203 1,809,460 6/1931 Weis.

1,866,647 7/1932 Gru-man 112-262 2,003,672 6/1935 Weis 112-2 2,157,368 5/1939 Weis 112-2 2,176,643 10/1939 Sigoda 112-262 2,612,855 10/1952 Sailer 112-147 2,746,412 5/1956 Roseman 112-262 3,150,621 9/ 1964 Warnock.

JAMES R. BOLER, Primary Examiner.

US. Cl. X.R.

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