US323506A - Sleeve for garments - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

G. S. GATES.

SLEEVE FOR GARMENTS.

Patented Aug. 4, 1885.

UNITED States Parent @rricn.

GEORGE SHATTUOK GATES, OF ATHOL, MASSACHUSETTS.

SLEEVE FOR GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 323,506, dated August 4, 1885.

(No model.)

Garments, of which the following is a full,-

clear, and exact description.

Heretofore much difficultyhas been experienced, particularly with closefitting sleeves,-

from having that portion covering the forearm twist or draw out of position by using the arm, thus necessitating the adjustment of the sleeve after the arm has been extended in extreme positions. \Vhen a sleeve is sewed together and subjected to a strain, if the threads of the cloth on the two sides of the seam make different angles with the line of the scam the cloth will stretch or give unequally and the seam will twist.

The object of my invention is to make a sleeve in a single piece from actual measurements of the arm which shall conform to its outline,and whose scams shall retain their position in respect to the line of the center of the forearm.

The nature of my invention is to so out the material that when the arm is bent the strain at the elbow will be equal on the outside and on the inside of the sleeve with the scam in the position it is intended to occupy.

I attain my object by so cutting the material that the strain produced by bending the arm makes as near as possible the same angle with the threads of the material of the upper and under or outside and inside parts of the sleeve.

Figure 1 is aview showing the configuration of the sleeve when cut. Fig. 2 is a View showing the sleeve ready for attaching to the waist or body of a garment.

Similar letters refer to similar parts in the different views.

The line C, 1, is the circumference of the arm at its largest part. The lines B and B together equal the measurement of the arm over the point of the elbow, the elbow being at the side with the hand raised to the shoulder. This measurement gives exactly the amountof material necessary at the elbow to enable the arm to be freely used. The lower end of sleeve must be large enough for the hand to pass. The points a and at when the Sleeve is sewed and folded upon the center of lines B and B fall upon the line perpendicw lar to line J. The line I extends from the point of the shoulder to the elbow; joint. This measurement is not that usually taken to the point of the elbow or outer projection of the forearm-bone. The line J, equal to J, is the length of forearm part of sleeve measured from elbow-joint on line A a continuation of line I. The triangular or V piece a c dis determined by the hand or wristand elbow measurement. The lines D, E, F, G, J, and J are all slightly curved to conform to the outlines of the arm. The line H is that known as the arnnsize. The line a, Fig. 2, is the seam formed by the union of lines F, G, J,and J. The line Z) is the seam formed by the union of lines D and E. The lines B, B, and G are parallel and perpendicular to line I. The lines F and G are nearly parallel to line I; consequently the figure formed by lines B, B, G, F, and Gr is nearly a rectangle. The point f marks thepoint of the shoulder or 8X treme point of line H from line C. This point is so taken that line I cuts line G, making 9 71. about one-quarter the circumference of the arm at largest part. Changing this proportion changes the position of the seam on the inside of arm.

The excess of the distance between lines F and G, measured'at e, the position of elbowjoint, gives the distance bet-ween lines D and E on elbow-line B B.

The distance a b is the excess of line D over line E, and shows the amount to be fullcd in at the elbow in forming scam I), Fig. 2. This fulling should come over the point of the elbow. Line B is about one-quarter of elbow measurement.

Having fully described my invention, what I desire to claim, and secure by Letters Patent, is-

A sleeve for a garment formed of a single piece having a seam, a, and. a seam, b, the

latter being formed by fulling or gathering,

the inner end of the long side of a dart until it equals the short side and sewing the two equalized sides of the dart together, thereby giving a fullness at the elbow, substantially as set forth.

GEORGE SHATTUCK GATES.

Witncsses:

WM. F. llIEnnILL, ARTHUR H. WELLMAN.

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