US2379511A - Coat garment - Google Patents

Description

J. FEDERMAN July 3, 1945.

COAT GARMENT 2 Shee'ts-Sheet 1 Filed Dec. 5, 1944 INVENTOR. cwx/ Maw ATTORNEYS J. FEDERMAN COAT GARMENT Filed Dec. 5,

I -Ju'l 3,1945.

2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. KM/maul I BY WW ATTORNEYS Patented July 3, 1945 COAT GARMENT Jack Federman, Brooklyn, N. Y. Application December 5, 1944, Serial No. 566,660-

3 Claims.

This invention relates toa new and improved garment of the coat type and to new and improved pattern-pieces for'making the same.

While the improved coat garment'can be made of any material and of any length, the invention is especially useful for making fur coats and fur arments. However, it is not desired-to limit the invention in this respect.

Fur coats made of large skins such as sheepskins, mouton, leopard, pony skins and the like usually have the back thereof made or formed from a single skin which in the ordinary fur coat is broadest at the bottom of the back and narrows toward the neckline. The skin in general is not quite wide enough near the neckline to extend the width of the back or front. It is consequently necessary to supplement the back near the top by inserting additional triangular pieces, inserts, gussets or the like at the back adjacent the shoulders in order to compensate for this shortage of width. Q

It is therefore the principal object of the present invention to provide a new and improved arment of the coat type and to new and improved pattern-pieces for making the same, whereby ordinary fur skins of varying widths may be used without employing any inserts, additions or the like. This is accomplished by cutting both sleeves so as to provide extra material at each side at the top of said sleeves.

Another object of the invention is to provide a garment of novel construction formed from a minimum number of pattern-pieces or parts of novel configuration and out.

Another object of the invention is to provide a garment which will have a graceful and pleasing appearance, which will readily conform to the shoulders and back of the wearer, and which will permit free movement.

Another object of the invention is to provide a form-fitting garment of simple construction and complete fullness, and which can be manufactured at low cost.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved sleeve for coat garments and a new and improved pattern-piece for making the same.

Other objects of the invention will be described and set forth in the annexed description and drawings, whichillustrate a preferred and practical embodiment thereof.

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of the improved garment in completed form.

Fig. 2: is a perspective view of one of the body sections of the garment.

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of one of the sleeve sections of the garment.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the body section shown in Fig. 2, and illustrates the pattern according to which said body section'is cut.

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the sleeve section shown in Fig. 3, and illustrates the pattern according to which said sleeve section is cut.

The garment broadly comprises and is made of the followingpattern-pieces or parts:

Right body section RB; left body section LB; right sleeve section RS; and left sleeve section LS. Body sections RB and LB are identical and sleeve sections RS and LSare identical. Where the garment is a fur garment, then body sections RB and LB are integral, being formed from a single skin or pelt.

It will be noted from Fig. 1 that the improved garment consists of a minimum number of pattern-pieces or parts, four in all, two body sections (RB and LB) and two sleeve sections (RS and LS).

Referring to Fig. 4, which illustrates the pattern PB according to which body section LB (Fig.

2) is cut, l0 and II designate the respective side edges of said pattern PB. The said side edges l0 and II are inclined inwardly. Side edge II is curved or convex for a greater part of its length. its upper portion terminating in the concave edge Ila.

Pattern-piece PB is provided with a recess R which is defined by the side edges l2 and I3 and bottom edge ll. Said recess R is generally rectangular in shape. It will be noted that bottom edge I4 is inclined and that side edges l2 and [3 are slightly concave. Recess edge I2 is provided with a pair of small notches l5 and I6 and recess .edge I3 is provided with a small notch I7, the purpose of these will hereinafter be explained when the formation of the garment is being described.

It will be noted that recess R divides the pattern-piece PB into two sections. The right section has an elongated triangular recess l8 formed therein with its apex extending downwardly and the base thereof terminating in the top-edge of pattern, PB and dividing the same into two parts, namely, l9 and I911. The left section is provided at its upper edge with a. small notch 20. The topedge of said left section comprises the three concave edge portions 2|, 2| a and 2| b.

It will be noted from Fig. 4 that pattern-piece PB is formed of a single blank of material.

Referring now to Fig. 5, which illustrates the one-piece pattern PS according to which sleeve section LS (Fig. 3) is cut, 22 and 23 designate the respective vertical side edges of the lower portion thereof and 24 and 25 designate the respective inclined side edges of the upper portion thereof. The respective edges 24 and25 are inclined laterally inwardly to said vertical edges 22 and 23, thus forming the lateral shoulders 26 and 26a. Side edge 24 is formed with a pair of small notches 21 adjacent its upper end, and side edge 25 is provided with a small notch 28 adjacent its upper end.

Pattern piece PS is formed with a centrally located recess 29 at its upper end. Said recess 29 is defined by the inwardly inclined side edges 30 and 32 and convex bottom edge 3|. Recess 29 divides the top-edge of pattern PS into two inwardly inclined portions or extensions 33 and 34 having the inclined top edges 35 and 36 respectively. Said extensions 33 and 34 project above convex edge 3|, said convex edge 3| being located intermediate said extensions.

It will be noted from Fig. 5 that pattern piece PS is formed of a single blank of material. It is the formation and provision of extensions 33 and 34 and intermediate convex top edge 3! that comprise the principal part of the invention herein.

The pattern-piece PB illustrated in Fig. 4 is formed into the body section LB shown in Fig. 2, in the following manner:

The longitudinal edges of triangular recess l8 are sewed together by the line of stitching 31. Top edges l9 and |9a are then connected to top edge 2|b by the line of stitching 38. There then results the body section illustrated in Fig. 2. This body section represents only one half of the body of the final garment.

The pattern-piece PS illustrated in Fig. 5 is formed into the sleeve LS shown in Fig. 3, in the following manner:

Vertical side edges 22 and 23 are stitched together by the vertical line of stitching 39 so that the top-edges of shoulders 23 and 26a are in alignment. Portion 33 is connected to portion 34 adjacent their respective top edges 35 and 36 by the line of stitching 40. The sleeve sect on is then finished off by providing the short transverse line of stitching 4| which connects convex edge 3| to the edges 30 and 32. There then results the tubular sleeve illustrated in Fig. 3. The

i right hand sleeve is formed in a similar manner from a similar pattern-piece or blank as blank PS.

Body section LB shown in Fig. 2 is then connected to sleeve section LS shown in Fig. 3 b the line of stitching 42 adjacent edges |2, |3, I4, 24, 25, 26, 26a. To assist in the proper positioning of sleeve section LS with respect to'body section LB, notches 21 are aligned with notches l5 and I6, and notch 28 is aligned with notch I. By connecting sleeve section LS to body section LB, the entire left half of the garment is formed.

To complete the final garment shown in Fig. I, the right body section RB and the right sleeve It will be noted, that each of body sections RB and LB form respectively one half of the front and one half of the back of the final garment.

It will also be noted that the upper ends of sleeves RS and LS (portions 33 and 34) form the shoulders of the final garment. The-two sleeves of the garment (sleeves RS and 1.5) are so cut at their upper ends that there is an overage at the top of said sleeves (this is represented by portions 33 and 34). In this manner, there is provided extra material at each side near the top so that no inserts or the like are necessary to compensate or make up for any shortness in width of the back or body of the garment. This construction permits the use of a skin or material having a narrow or reduced width at its upper end for the back and front of the garment. Sleeves RS and LS have more than the necessary fullness and provide comfortable shoulder portions. It is the cutting of sleeves RS and LS so as to provide the extra shoulder portions 33 and 34 that is the principal feature of the invention herein.

There has been illustrated and described a preferred embodiment of the invention, but it is obvious that numerous changes, transpositions and omissions may be made without departing from its spirit. It is not desired to be'limited to any specific proportions, size, configuration of pattern-pieces and material. If desired, the improved garment may be provided with any type of collar, belt or ornamentation.

The invention is not to be limited to a coat only, as it can readily be embodied in other garments and apparel.

What is claimed is:

1. A coat garment which comprises a body and a pair of sleeves connected thereto, each of said sleeves having a pair of inwardly inclined ex- 40 tensions projecting from the top edge thereof,

section RS are formed in the same manner as the left body section LB and the left sleeve section LS, respectively. Right sleeve section RS is then connected to right body section RB by the line of stitching 43. There is thus obtained the right half of the garment, which is then connected to the left half section along the side edge Ill of body section LB and the corresponding side edge of body section RB, by the vertical line of stitching 44. There then results the completed garment illustrated in Fig. 1.

Where the improved garment is made of fabric or the like, the body of the garment consists of two complementary body sections (RB and LB). However, in the case of fur garments, the entire body of the garment is formed from a single skin. That is, in this case, body sections RB and LB are integral. Consequently there is no vertical back seam 44 as shown in Fig. 1. In this instance, 44 would in reality be a fold-line, where the skin would be folded upon itself and out according to the body section patterns. Therefore, a fur garment cut and constructed according to the invention herein consists of three parts, namely, a pair of complementary sleeve sections and a body section.

the said extensions being connected to eachother adjacent their respective top edges, each of said sleeves having a convex top edge portion located intermediate said extensions, said convex top edge portion being connected to said extensions to form the shoulders of the garment.

2. A coat garment which comprises a pair of complementary body sections and a pair of complementary sleeve sections, the said body sections being connected to each other along a rear vertical seam, the sleeve sections being connected to said body sections, each of said sleeve sections having a pair of inwardly inclined extensions projecting from the upper end thereof, the said extension being connected to each other adjacent their respective top edges, each of said sleeves having a convex top edge portion located below and intermediate said extensions and connected thereto. 3

3. A garment sleeve pattern-piece or the like formed of a single blank of material and having lower vertical side edges and upper inclined side edges and a top edge, th upper side edges being inclined laterally inwar y to said lower vertical side edges to form a pair of aligned lateral shoulders at each side of the pattern-piece, a pair of inwardly inclined extensions projecting from the top edge of said pattern-piece, the top edge of said pattern-piece located intermediate said extensions being convex and being located below said extensions and forming a recess therebetween.

JACK FEDERMAN.

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