US20230284762A1 - Hair coloring method - Google Patents
Hair coloring method Download PDFInfo
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- US20230284762A1 US20230284762A1 US18/198,376 US202318198376A US2023284762A1 US 20230284762 A1 US20230284762 A1 US 20230284762A1 US 202318198376 A US202318198376 A US 202318198376A US 2023284762 A1 US2023284762 A1 US 2023284762A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
- A45D19/012—Devices for colouring or bleaching separated strands of hair, e.g. highlighting
- A45D19/018—Devices for colouring or bleaching separated strands of hair, e.g. highlighting comprising wrapping foils or foldable sheets for enclosing a strand of hair during treatment, e.g. frosting foils
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
- A45D19/0041—Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
- A45D19/0066—Coloring or bleaching
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
- A45D19/0041—Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
- A45D19/0066—Coloring or bleaching
- A45D19/0075—Producing special patterns, e.g. by masks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
- A45D19/0041—Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
- A45D19/0066—Coloring or bleaching
- A45D19/0083—Coloring or bleaching the roots of the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
- A45D19/012—Devices for colouring or bleaching separated strands of hair, e.g. highlighting
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
- A45D19/012—Devices for colouring or bleaching separated strands of hair, e.g. highlighting
- A45D19/016—Devices for colouring or bleaching separated strands of hair, e.g. highlighting comprising an open, flat support for strands of hair or for wrapping foils during the application of the dyeing product
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D44/00—Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms
- A45D44/005—Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms for selecting or displaying personal cosmetic colours or hairstyle
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D20/00—Hair drying devices; Accessories therefor
- A45D20/04—Hot-air producers
- A45D20/08—Hot-air producers heated electrically
- A45D20/10—Hand-held drying devices, e.g. air douches
Definitions
- the present disclosure relates to the field of hairdressing, and more specifically to a hair coloring method.
- the coloring method disclosed herein can be applied in beauty salons using well-known color formulas, to obtain a desired result on hair, with a smooth transition from dark to light hair tone and a high variability of coloring.
- the highlighting method involves determining the highest point of a human head in its natural position, isolating a main section of hair from the human hair growing from the highest point of the human head, separating the main section of hair into smaller elementary subsections of hair, and applying a hair dye (for example, to every second elementary subsection of hair). Next, sections of hair growing below the hair of the main section of hair are isolated, and for each of them the above-described steps are repeated. After holding a temporary pause sufficient for the hair to be dyed, the dye is washed off the human head.
- the combination of natural hair and dyed hair is formed.
- the natural hair “masks” the regrown hair roots, for which reason a person who has colored his/her hair according to the highlighting method may not retouch his/her hair as often as a person who has colored his/her hair in the usual way.
- the complex hair coloring method involves determining the highest point of a human head in its natural position, isolating a main section of hair from the human hair growing from the highest point of the human head, and applying a hair dye to this section of hair. Next, a section of hair growing below the hair of the main section of hair is isolated, and a different (in color) hair dye is applied to this section of hair. After that, the steps of isolating and coloring sections of hair are repeated, while usually changing the color of an applied hair dye. After holding a temporary pause sufficient for the hair to be dyed, the hair dye is washed off the human head. It should be noted that different hairdressers isolate certain sections of hair from the human hair in any sequence, but this coloring method is characterized by using hair dyes of different colors for neighboring sections of hair.
- interesting hairstyles are also obtained from the hair colored by using the complex hair coloring method, since it allows obtaining the combination of sections of hair colored in different colors.
- the hair colored in this way also “masks” the regrown hair roots quite well, for which reason a person how has colored his/her hair according to the complex hair coloring method may not retouch his/her hair as often as a person who has colored his/her hair in the usual way.
- the above-described hair coloring methods are characterized in that immediately after coloring, the dyed hair has the same color along its length. After some time, the hair grows and the root section of the hair is of a different color than the colored section of the hair, which makes a hairstyle, sooner or later, less attractive. Even though the highlighting and complex hair coloring methods allow one to “mask” this flaw, all the same, after a while, hair retouching is inevitable. In this case, both the regrown sections of the hair and the sections that have been previously colored and do not require additional coloring are subjected to such retouching, which unnecessarily injures the hair.
- RU2308861 discloses a method for coloring the hair of a human head, at the beginning of which the highest point of the human head in its natural position is determined.
- a main section of hair is isolated from the hair growing from the highest point of the head.
- a first hair dye is applied to the root section of the main section of hair. Sections of hair growing below the hair of the main section of hair are sequentially isolated, and the first hair dye is applied to the root sections of the isolated sections of hair.
- a second hair dye the color of which is lighter than the color of the first hair dye, is applied to those sections of the isolated sections of hair which are free from the first hair dye. After holding a temporary pause sufficient for the hair to be dyed, the hair dyes are washed off the hair of the human head. As a result, the human hair along their length is dyed in different (in tone) colors, while eliminating the need to retouch the root sections of the hair for a long time.
- the method disclosed in RU2308861 does not allow one to obtain smooth and soft color transitions on the hair. Furthermore, it does not allow one to correct the root zone without affecting the previously lightened or previously dyed hair, which is important for shades of “blond” and all complexly colored options.
- the classical highlighting method has undergone major changes, resulting in the following coloring techniques: shatush, ombre and balayage. Each of them gives the hair a natural effect of fading in the sun, and in all hair, there is a contrast between the roots and tips.
- Shatush provides a smooth transition from dark to lighter shades and is characterized by its principle of applying a hair dye. This process is performed in according with the “free-hand technique”, i.e., without using additional tools and means, and even without foil.
- the hair dye or lightener is applied with a conventional coloring brush. Before that, the hair is separated into thin sections of hair and combed from the roots. This will allow one to create an “air cushion” that will prevent excessive staining of the section of hair. Thus, the hair dye will affect only individual upper hairs, which will provide an imperceptible color transition.
- the tips of the hair are more abundantly stained, and closer to the roots, the hair dye is stretched in thin stripes. Sometimes a single section of hair is colored in a V-shape.
- Shatush is most suitable for brunettes and brown-haired women. Shatush requires more frequent adjustments, once a month. Everything depends on the selected shade and the speed of hair growth. Shatush is a coloring method in which a colorist uses two or three similar (in tone) shades as close as possible to the natural color of the hair. Due to the soft stretching of the dye along the sections of hair, the effect of sun-faded hair with slight highlights is achieved. However, the bouffant does not allow one to get as close as possible to the roots and does not allow one to do parallel manipulations with the hair that remained outside the lightening, i.e., which are directly in the bouffant.
- Ombre is translated as “shadow” and, unlike shatush, has a clearer border of color transition.
- This is a multi-stage hair coloring technique. It allows one to obtain natural overflows of several shades of color—for example, from light blond to dark chestnut.
- ombre is applied to dark sections of hair. The transition is made from a dark root zone to light tips. In this case, the border in the middle between the two shades is blurred.
- the transition to a light tone can begin from the middle of the hair length.
- a hair dye When coloring, a hair dye is applied to a selected area and covered with foil. After the expiry of the time required for the hair to be dyed, the dye is washed off. The dye is re-applied to the previously treated area, shifting the top line by a couple of centimeters. It is again covered with foil, and after a while the dye is washed off.
- Ombre is suitable for haircuts with short hair. It looks more impressive on dark hair.
- Balayage means “sweep” in French, since the work of a hairdresser with a brush when applying a coloring composition to the hair resembles wide sweeps of a broom.
- a hair dye is applied in a V-shaped or W-shaped manner. First, the sides of a selected section of hair are colored, and then its ends. Two or three shades are used, “flowing” into each other. Color transitions can be sharp or smooth, without clear boundaries.
- balayage is something between shatush and ombre.
- Shatush is meant to work with volume, and coloring is done randomly, for which reason shatush is not intended to obtain a desired result on the hair.
- Blonde hair is kind of empty. They are light due to the fact that they lack color pigments. That is why the hair of blondes tend to often change shade, giving off yellowness or grayness. Also, every blonde, especially natural, has observed such a phenomenon as a difference in shade at the roots, along the entire length and at the tips. This phenomenon is caused by the fact that bleached light hair tends to absorb the elements of the environment. Smog, tobacco smoke, dirt, precipitation settle on the hair and change their shade, giving yellowness or grayness. Hair changes color from the fact that elements of a polluted environment fall under their scales. In addition, regrown and previously colored blond hair needs color correction both in the root zone and along the entire length of the sections of hair.
- a section of long light hair has an uneven color along its length: uncolored hair in the root zone has a natural color; further along the entire length it acquires yellowness; at the ends—gray; in previously dyed blond hair in the root zone, regrown hair has a natural color, darker than along the entire length; further along the entire length it has a previously colored color or acquired yellowness.
- All existing methods for coloring blond hair do not allow one to separate the dyed hair into dark and light and color only those parts of the hair in the sections of hair which require dyeing or color correction.
- coloring or dyeing is carried out along the entire length of a section of hair, a hair dye is applied both to recently colored areas and to newly grown areas or areas requiring color correction, which causes damage to the hair.
- the known methods do not allow one to obtain a predictable desired result on the hair, to obtain a smooth transition from a dark tone to a light tone of the hair and a high variability in coloring.
- a hair coloring method is provided. All steps of the method are intended to be performed by a hairdresser.
- the method starts with the step of separating hair on a head of a person into sections (e.g., rhombic, square, triangular, horseshoe-shaped, etc.) by parting the hair based on anatomical points of the head. Then, the method proceeds to the step of isolating, in each of the sections of the hair, subsections of hair based on a direction of hair growth in the section. Each of the subsections of hair comprises a layer of long hair and a layer of short hair. Next, the method goes on to the following steps performed on each of the subsections of hair:
- the method proceeds to the step of rinsing the color formula off the hair. After that, the method goes on to the step of treating the hair according to a post-coloring recipe.
- the method according to the present disclosure allows one to achieve a desired result on the hair (e.g., to obtain a smooth transition from a dark tone to a light tone of the hair).
- the step of coloring by using the color formula comprises applying at least two different colors to the layer of long hair and/or the layer of short hair. By doing so, it is possible to provide a high variability in hair coloring.
- the step of coloring by using the color formula comprises applying the color formula to the subsections of hair in a form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern. By doing so, it is possible to ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair.
- the method further comprises the step of tinting each of the subsections of hair, after the step of rinsing the color formula off the hair but before the step of treating the hair according to the post-coloring recipe. Said tinting may allow one to neutralize unwanted shades.
- the step of coloring by using the color formula is performed in accordance with a graphic coloring scheme which shows the layer of long hair in the subsection of hair as a first triangle and the layer of short hair in the subsection of hair as a second triangle.
- the first triangle has a base representing a root hairline and an apex representing an end of the subsection of hair.
- the second triangle is smaller than the first triangle and is shown in the graphic coloring scheme as extending beyond the first triangle.
- the graphic coloring scheme further shows a border of a root zone, boundaries of coloring areas, and the color formula to be applied in each of the first triangle and the second triangle.
- the whole hair coloring method may be performed quickly and conveniently for the hairdresser (i.e., the hairdresser does not need to keep in mind all the information about colors and/or tones to be used for a particular person; instead, the hairdresser can simply find it in the graphic coloring scheme).
- FIGS. 1 A and 1 B show schematic top and side views, respectively, of different layers of hair in a subsection of hair;
- FIG. 2 shows a schematic top view of a subsection of hair with two different layers of hair
- FIG. 3 shows a graphic coloring scheme for the subsection of hair from FIG. 2 ;
- FIGS. 4 A- 4 C show a classical scheme for separating hair on a human head into sections
- FIGS. 5 A- 5 C show a layout of anatomical points of the human head
- FIG. 6 schematically explains a hair coloring method in accordance with one exemplary embodiment
- FIG. 7 shows a graphic coloring scheme for a subsection of hair with two different layers of hair in accordance with one exemplary embodiment
- FIGS. 8 A- 8 D show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into rhombic sections in accordance with a first exemplary embodiment
- FIGS. 9 A- 9 D show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into square sections in accordance with a second exemplary embodiment
- FIGS. 10 A- 10 E show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into triangular sections in accordance with a third exemplary embodiment
- FIGS. 11 A- 11 E show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into horseshoe-shaped sections in accordance with a fourth exemplary embodiment.
- the terms “colored (layer of) hair” and “dyed (layer of) hair” are used interchangeably, so that each of them refers to (layer of) hair having a color formula (or, in other words, hair color or dye) applied thereto.
- the embodiments disclosed herein refer to a method for coloring hair on a human head using a blow dryer.
- the method is the result of experiments carried out by the present inventor over two years.
- the hair is separated into sections of different shape (e.g., rhombic, square, triangular, horseshoe-shaped, etc.).
- subsections of hair are isolated in each section.
- Each subsection of hair is grabbed and pulled (in a direction of a cut line of the hair) with one hand of a hairdresser, and different (e.g., short, medium-length, and long) layers of hair are blown out of the subsection of hair by an air flow from the blow dryer held in another hand of the hairdresser.
- at least one of the blown-out layers of hair is fixed (e.g., with a clamp) and colored.
- the hair thus colored is then rinsed and treated according to a post-coloring recipe.
- Each hair has a trunk (shaft) protruding from the scalp and root.
- the lower, expanded part of the hair root is called the bulb. Due to the bulbs, hair grows, as well as new hair is formed.
- the life cycle of the hair consists of three stages; its duration varies from 2 to 5 years.
- Each hair follicle is genetically programmed to produce approximately 25-27 hair shafts.
- Each hair lives according to its “individual schedule,” and therefore different hairs are at the same time at different stages of their life cycle: 85% of the hair is in the active growth phase (anagen), 1% of the hair is in the resting phase (catagen), and 14% of the hair is in the stage of prolapse (telogen).
- the length of each hair depends on what phase it is in. The smallest length is peculiar to a newly starting hair, the so-called underhair. The greatest length of hair is in the resting phase before hair loss or during hair loss.
- FIGS. 1 A and 1 B show schematic top and side views, respectively, of different layers of hair in a subsection of hair.
- FIGS. 1 A and 1 B show the subsection of hair with different hair growth phases.
- the subsection of hair itself is schematically shown as an elongated triangle. If the subsection of hair is exposed to an air flow from a blow dryer, it is separated from the shortest to the longest (see FIG. 1 B ), i.e., a “fan” is created.
- These hair groups of different lengths are herein referred to as layers of hair.
- the length and thickness of layers of hair vary between people.
- the number of layers of hair in the subsection of hair depends on the activity of the growth phases.
- the subsection of hair contains the longest hair, but contain only a small amount of long hair, while the roots have the shortest hair, and a large number of them.
- a rapid change in the growth phases indicates a high activity of the layers of hair, i.e., many layers of hair.
- each subsection of hair is pulled away, with one hand of a hairdresser, in the direction of a hair cut line, directing a cold air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair.
- one part of the hair is “blown out” (i.e., layers of shorter hair), and another part of the hair (i.e., layers of longer hair) remains in the hand of the hairdresser.
- a grabbing level is the distance from the root zone, at which the hairdresser holds a given subsection of hair with his/her fingers when blowing the subsection of hair with the blow dryer.
- the grabbing level determines the ratio of light and dark colors in the colored subsection of hair. When the layers of hair are highly active, the grabbing level is taken higher, i.e., closer to the root zone, where the dark color of regrown and newly grown hair dominates.
- a coloring scheme is a plan for a coloring process, which the hairdresser draws after studying the condition of hair.
- the coloring scheme may include, but not limited to, the boundaries of the application of color formulas (i.e., hair dyes), a post-coloring recipe, color formula numbers, and their percentage on each layer of hair.
- color formulas i.e., hair dyes
- a post-coloring recipe i.e., a post-coloring recipe
- color formula numbers i.e., percentage on each layer of hair.
- the coloring scheme may be presented graphically.
- FIG. 2 shows a schematic top view of a subsection of hair with two different layers of hair. More specifically, the subsection of hair comprises a layer of long hair and a layer of short hair.
- the layer of long hair is schematically shown as a base (elongated) triangle 22
- the layer of short hair is schematically shown as a smaller triangle 21 .
- the base triangle 22 may have a base corresponding to a root hairline and an apex corresponding the end of the subsection of hair.
- the smaller triangle 21 is applied to the base triangle 22 .
- FIG. 3 shows a graphic coloring scheme for the subsection of hair from FIG. 2 .
- the smaller triangle 21 corresponding to the layer of short hair extends beyond the base triangle 22 , so that the hairdresser can indicate corresponding coloring-related information thereon (e.g., shades, etc.).
- coloring-related information e.g., shades, etc.
- the number of the triangles (i.e., layers of hair) shown in FIG. 3 is given for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as any limitation of the present disclosure.
- each of them corresponding to a certain layer of hair (i.e., a layer constituted by hair of certain length) and being provided with certain coloring-related information, such as the border of the root zone, the border of the application of color formulas, color formula numbers, shades, mixtures, and their percentage on each layer of hair, etc.
- certain coloring-related information such as the border of the root zone, the border of the application of color formulas, color formula numbers, shades, mixtures, and their percentage on each layer of hair, etc.
- a hair separation scheme is a scheme according to which hair on a human head is separated into sections or zones, taking into account the anatomical features or points of the head.
- the hair separation scheme is applied at the beginning of the hair coloring method according to the present disclosure.
- FIGS. 4 A- 4 C show a classical scheme for separating hair on a human head into sections.
- the classical separation is based on the anatomical features of the shape of the human skull, with some certain metric characteristics (dimensions, lines of curvature, transitions, depressions, bulges, etc.).
- the sections are artificial lines that separate and divide the scalp into zones to facilitate access and provide the ability to work with each zone separately.
- the area of the scalp is a certain section of the scalp that is allocated by the hairdresser in the coloring process.
- the following classical zones are known in hairdressing: frontal-parietal zone (FPZ), temporal-lateral zone (TLZ), upper occipital zone (UOZ), middle occipital zone (MOZ) and lower occipital zone (LOZ).
- the FPZ is limited in front by the edge of hair growth on the forehead, behind—by the upper part of the nape (along the central radial parting), and on the sides by the temporal-lateral zones. It is in the FPZ that the bulk of the hair volume is formed.
- the hair in the FPZ grows mainly from the top of the head to the face.
- the main hair whorl is at the top of the head, along its border, and determines the streaming and direction of hair growth.
- there is a natural parting (the only strip of skin against the background of hair), which can be in the middle, left, right, diagonally, or completely absent.
- the FPZ is crucial in solving the general appearance of a model. Therefore, according to the present disclosure, the central sections in the form of “rhombus”, “square”, “triangle”, “horseshoe” are provided in the FPZ.
- the left and right TLZs are limited, at the place of attachment of the auricle, by a vertical section and are adjacent to the FPZ.
- the UOZ above the left and right ears is bordered by the TLZ.
- the UOZ there are two upper occipital tubercles and a mid-occipital tubercle.
- the direction or run of hair growth in the UOZ is a multidirectional swirl. A part of hair grows towards the face, the other—down, to the neck, left and right in the area of the auricles. When coloring, this zone requires a thorough and flexible approach. It is in this zone that the flaws of the skull shape, which affect the solution of the tasks of the hairdresser, clearly manifest themselves.
- the MOZ rests against the auricles on the left and on the right, borders on the UOZ at the top, and the bottom line of this zone repeats the base of the skull, which is perfectly palpable in this zone.
- the hair grows in the middle down to the neck, right and left in the direction of the auricles.
- the lower occipital protuberance is on the lower border in the zone.
- the line of the sagittal section passes exactly through it.
- the lower boundary of the MOZ sharply goes deep and reduces the volume of the zone.
- the line of curvature of the outgoing volume causes difficulties for work on it.
- the LOZ is located outside the surface of the skull, namely on the neck.
- the hair grows down to the auricles.
- swirls are often observed, which in turn completely change the natural growth of hair, up to the formation of swirls with the opposite direction of growth.
- FIGS. 5 A- 5 C show a layout of anatomical points of the human head. More specifically, FIGS. 5 A- 5 C show the following anatomical points:
- FIGS. 5 A- 5 C also shows one more point—PP—the projection point.
- the central radial parting 10 As for the central radial parting 10 , it is an arch from ear to ear through the crown. It separates the parietal zone from the upper occipital.
- the central vertical parting 11 As for the central vertical parting 11 , it divides the upper and lower occipital zones into two halves.
- the horizontal parting 12 As for the horizontal parting 12 , it separates the upper occipital zone from the lower, passes from ear to ear through the occipital tubercles and the lower point of the crown (LPC).
- FIG. 6 schematically explains a hair coloring method in accordance with one exemplary embodiment.
- a hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair.
- the coloring scheme may graphically present a subsection of hair in the form of a base (elongated) triangle (see FIG. 3 ), the base of which is a root hairline, while the apex of which is the end of the subsection of hair.
- a smaller triangle is applied to the base triangle, corresponding to a layer of shorter hair. For convenience, the smaller triangle extends beyond the base triangle.
- a coloring scheme is applied, which may include, but not limited to, the border of the root zone, the border of the application of color formulas, a recipe, color formula numbers in each layer of hair.
- color formula (or “dye”) and “color formula number” (or “dye number”) may also refer to shades, tones, mixtones, and their ratios. Further in the text, the terms “color formula” and “color formula number” will be used in this sense.
- FIGS. 5 A- 5 C a scheme for separating the hair into sections according to the anatomical points of the head is selected (see FIGS. 5 A- 5 C ).
- subsections of hair are isolated, and each subsection of hair is fixed with a clamp.
- a grabbing level for the subsection of hair is selected.
- the hairdresser grabs the subsection of hair in accordance with the grabbing level and pull away in the direction of the haircut.
- the hairdresser holds a blow dryer in the other hand and directs an air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair, step by step blowing out the layers of hair that are above the grabbing level, resulting in blowing out the layers of hair above the grabbing level.
- the blown-out layers of hair are denoted in FIG. 6 as layers B, C, D, and E.
- the rest hair i.e., those in layer A
- Each blown-out layer of hair is fixed.
- a coloring formula is applied to each layer of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme and wrapped in a foil.
- the color formula may be applied to the subsections of hair in the form of a horizontal or a zigzag pattern. Then, the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to a post-coloring procedure.
- the separation of each subsection of hair into two layers of hair is usually enough.
- the secondary coloring second visit to the hairdresser
- the separation of each subsection of hair into three layers of hair is required.
- the longest layer of hair and the middle layer of hair are dyed with a lighter color; the color formula is applied according to the coloring scheme. Color correction is carried out, if necessary.
- the hairdresser works with the shortest layer of hair, making the root zone colored with a lighter color, without affecting all other hair.
- the color correction can be described as follows.
- the hairdresser can separate the same first subsections of hair by using the blow dryer as explained above, and lighten the root zone, because the light part is clearly separated from the dark and overgrown zone in the first layers of hair, which were colored four or more months ago. If the client wants to add more light color, then without affecting the long subsections of hair that have grown in the root zone, the hairdresser can take the middle layer of hair and add light tones to make a smoother transition from the root zone.
- one of two layers of hair is worked on: either the very first, longest, or middle. Work is carried out with all three layers, and alternately, every two to three months, replacing them with each other, only in the case when a large amount of blond is needed, almost total blond.
- the hairdresser works with long layers of hair.
- a middle layer of hair is treated extremely rarely when dark gradient coloring is needed. If more blond is needed, the middle layer of hair is added. If even more blond is needed, then a third layer of hair is added. In addition, it is possible to alternate between the layers of hair.
- the hairdresser can get all the layers of hair in the subsection of hair. Over time, the hair grows and changes back to its original color, but the proposed method allows the hairdresser to separate the layers of light hair from the layers of dark hair and color only required areas of the hair.
- the hairdresser can predict a year ahead and schedule the time when the correction of the colored hair can be done without injuring the hair, taking into account each individual case.
- the proposed coloring method makes it possible to separate the colored hair into dark and light, to highlight the hair to be colored, without affecting the rest hair. If the hair does not need to be lightened, it will not be damaged.
- the hairdresser works only with a layer of hair that should be lightened. There is no other coloring method, where such separation of the subsection of hair into light and dark color is achieved.
- the method makes it possible to obtain a smooth transition from a dark tone to a light tone over the entire volume of the subsection of hair and a high variability of coloring, thereby maintaining maximum hair quality for any kind of lightening and for any correction of the root zone.
- a hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines the number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair.
- the matter concerns the hair of medium length (shoulder length), i.e., a bob haircut, and it is assumed that unsuccessful previous coloring led to the effect of burnt hair.
- the hair is separated into subsections of hair in each section, and each subsection of hair is clamped.
- the activity of the hair growth phases allows the hairdresser to select two layers of hair with two grabbing levels.
- the hairdresser grabs the subsection of hair in accordance with the first grabbing level, closer to the end of the subsection of hair, and pull away in the direction of the haircut.
- the layer of shorter hair above the grabbing level are blown out with a blow dryer from the subsection of hair and fixed with a clamp.
- the rest of the hair in the subsection of hair is grabbed in accordance with the second grabbing level, closer to the roots of the hair, and fixed with a clamp.
- a coloring scheme is made, in which the layer of long hair is shown as the base (elongated) triangle 22 and the layer of shot hair is shown as the smaller triangle 21 extending beyond the base triangle 22 .
- the coloring scheme also indicates color tones on each of the triangles 21 , 22 (i.e., for each of the two layers) (see FIG. 7 ).
- color 6N medium brown
- color 8N blonde
- color 10N platinum blonde
- color 6N medium brown
- color 7N light brown
- a foil is placed under each of the two layers of hair, and a color formula is applied according to the coloring scheme.
- a time period sufficient for the hair to be colored with the color formula is maintained. Then, the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to a post-coloring recipe.
- the desired effect is obtained—a beautiful blonde with a smooth transition of tones, i.e., the effect of the natural color of burnt hair. This is one of the most difficult color corrections.
- the hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored during a second visit after the initial coloring. Secondary coloring is required due to the fact that a layer of regrown hair has appeared, which brings a dark tone to the initially colored blond.
- the hairdresser determines the number of layers of hair. Hair growth activity allows the hairdresser to distinguish three layers of hair with two grabbing levels.
- the longest layer of hair is isolated and fixed with a clamp.
- Medium-length and short layers of hair are blown out from the remaining hair with an air flow from a blow dryer.
- Color correction is made on the middle layer of hair by using tone 7N (light blond).
- tone 8N tone 8N (blond).
- the short layer of hair is not affected and thus is not damaged.
- the hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored during a third visit, i.e., after the secondary coloring. A layer of newly regrown hair of the original color has appeared. Hair growth activity allows the hairdresser to separate the very first layer of hair. Consistently blowing out long layers of hair, the grabbing level is brought closer to the root zone, taking out the very first layer of newly regrown hair. The hairdresser corrects this layer by using tone 6N, without affecting the long layers of hair, and without unnecessarily injuring them.
- the hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored.
- the client wants to brighten the hair.
- the long layer of hair is isolated, blowing out all the short layers of hair.
- the hairdresser then lays a foil under the long layer of hair and apply brightening composition 8N.
- the present inventor has adapted the hair coloring method to different hair separation schemes, namely: “rhombus”, “square”, “triangle”, and “horseshoe”.
- FIGS. 8 A- 8 D show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into rhombic sections in accordance with a first exemplary embodiment. This scheme is suitable for the hair of the same length, for example, a bob haircut.
- the hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair.
- the coloring scheme is visually presented in the same manner as described above.
- the hairdresser selects the scheme of separating the hair into rhombic sections according to the anatomical points of the head.
- the frontal-parietal zone (FPZ) of the head is crucial in deciding the general appearance of the colored hair.
- the hair in the FPZ grows mainly from the top of the head to the face.
- the FPZ is divided into diagonal section lines, highlighting a central rhombic section, as follows:
- Each subsection of hair is fixed with a clamp.
- the grabbing levels in the subsection of hair are selected.
- the subsection of hair is held by one hand in accordance with the grabbing level selected according to the coloring scheme.
- a blow dryer is held in the other hand, and an air flow from the blow dryer is directed through the subsection of hair.
- the subsection of hair is pulled away in the direction of the haircut according to the haircut, gradually blowing out short, medium-length, longer and longest hair from it, resulting in a required number of blown-out layers of hair. By making the grabbing level higher, a next layer of hair is blown out. From each subsection of hair, a certain number of layers of hair is obtained, preferably from 1 to 3 layers.
- a coloring formula is applied to the obtained layer of long hair in accordance with the coloring scheme.
- the colored layer of hair is wrapped in foil. All the longest layers of hair in all subsections of hair in each section are colored and wrapped.
- a next coloring formula is then applied to a layer of short hair in accordance with the coloring scheme. Thus, all subsequent layers of hair in all subsections of hair in each section are colored and wrapped.
- the subsections of hair are colored, either a few centimeters from the roots or right next to the roots, depending on the indication on the coloring scheme, in order to obtain a desired effect.
- the color formulas are applied to the subsections of hair in the form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern.
- a time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored.
- the color formulas are rinsed off of the hair.
- the colored subsections of hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
- the hair is treated according to a given post-coloring method.
- the hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored. This case relates to the haircut of the same length, like a bob haircut. The correction of previously colored hair is required. The activity of the hair growth phases allows the hairdresser to select two layers of hair with two grabbing levels.
- the coloring chart is the same as shown in FIG. 3 .
- the hairdresser selects the scheme for separating the hair into rhombic sections according to the anatomical points of the head (see FIGS. 8 A- 8 D ). This hair separation into the rhombic sections is performed as described above.
- Each subsection of hair in each section is fixed with a clamp.
- the subsection of hair is held by one hand in accordance with the grabbing level selected according to the coloring scheme.
- the hairdresser holds a blow dryer in the other hand and directs the air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair.
- the subsection of hair is pulled away in the direction of the cut line of the hair. Short hair is blown out, leaving a layer of long hair in the hairdresser's hand. The resulting layer is fixed.
- a color formula is applied to the resulting layer of layer hair in accordance with the 6N (medium blond) coloring scheme; in subsequent sections, in accordance with the grabbing level indicated in the scheme, lighter tones are applied: in the middle region—7N+8N (light blond+blond), at the ends—9N+10N (bright blond+platinum blond).
- the hairdresser wraps the colored layer of hair in foil. Thus, all first layers of hair in the subsections of hair in each section are colored.
- a next color formula is then applied to a second layer of short hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, for example, 6N at the roots and 7N+8N (light blond+blond) in the subsequent region, and the second layer of hair is wrapped in foil. In this way, all second layers of hair in the subsections of hair in each section are colored.
- the hairdresser colors the subsections of hair, retreating a few centimeters from the roots.
- a time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored.
- the color formulas is applied to the subsections of hair in the form of a zigzag pattern.
- the colored subsections of hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades. Then, the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to a post-coloring method.
- FIGS. 9 A- 9 D show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into square sections in accordance with a second exemplary embodiment.
- This scheme is suitable for haircuts with bangs, and for hair trimmed with a cascade (a bob haircut).
- the hair separation into the square sections solves the problem of obtaining a more uniform color from roots to ends, e.g., a more even blond.
- the hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair.
- the coloring scheme is visually presented as described above.
- the hair is separated into the square sections according to the anatomical points of the head.
- the square sections are formed according to the anatomical points of the head by using partings.
- the FPZ is separated by using diagonal, vertical and horizontal parting lines, while highlighting a central square section. To do this, the following operations are performed:
- the lower occipital area located under the horizontal parting 12 , has a small surface.
- swirls are often observed in this zone, which change the natural growth of hair, thereby causing difficulties in working in it.
- the implementation of the hair coloring method according to the present disclosure involves diagonal sections that allow one to create stepless transitions of layers of colored hair.
- the hairdresser draws a diagonal line on the horizontal parting 12 to the projection point (PP) on the hairline in the lower occipital area and obtains peripheral lower occipital sections 19 and 20 according to the anatomical points of the head. Hair in these sections are separated into subsections of hair, taking into account the direction of hair growth in the sections shown in FIGS. 9 A- 9 E , namely:
- Each subsection of hair is fixed.
- the subsection of hair is grabbed by one hand in accordance with the grabbing level selected according to the coloring scheme.
- the other hand holds a blow dryer and directs the air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair, which is pulled away perpendicular to the surface of the head, thereby gradually blowing out short, medium-length, longer and longest hair.
- a certain number of layers is obtained, preferably 1 to 3 layers. Each of those layers are fixed with a clamp.
- the resulting layer of hair is colored according to the coloring scheme and wrapped in foil. All layers of hair in each subsection of hair in each section are treated in this manner.
- color formulas are applied to them in the form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern.
- a time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored.
- the color formulas are rinsed off the hair.
- the subsections of colored hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
- the hair is treated according to a post-coloring method.
- the hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. This case concerns primary hair coloring with a cascading haircut.
- a client wants to get a smooth transition from a darker color at the hair roots to a very light color at the ends of the hair.
- the hairdresser selects the scheme for separating the hair into the square sections according to the anatomical points of the head (see FIGS. 9 A- 9 D ). The hair separation into the square sections is performed as described above.
- Subsections of hair are isolated in each section, and each subsection of hair is fixed with a clamp.
- the activity of the hair growth phases allows the hairdresser to select two layers with two grabbing levels (see FIG. 3 ).
- the hairdresser grabs the subsection of hair and holds it in the fingers, pulling away in the direction of the cut line of the hair. Layers of shorter hair above the grabbing level are blown out with a blow dryer. Each layer of hair is fixed with a clamp.
- the hair coloring process is performed as follows.
- each section it is supposed to color the subsections of hair by using a darker tone at the roots and making a transition to a light tone (blond) at the ends of the subsections of hair.
- the coloring scheme shown in FIG. 7 is used, which indicates the color tone numbers in each layer of hair. More specifically, in the base triangle 22 (denoting the layer of long hair), color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots, color 8N (blonde) is indicated in the middle region, and color 10N (platinum blonde) is indicated in the remaining (end) region. As for the smaller triangle 21 (denoting the layer of short hair), color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots, and color 7N (light brown) is indicated at the ends corresponding to the middle region of the base triangle 22 .
- the color formulas are applied to the obtained layers of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, whereafter the layers of hair are wrapped in foil. A time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored. To ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair, the color formulas in the form of a zigzag pattern.
- the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to a post-coloring method.
- FIGS. 10 A- 10 E show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into triangular sections in accordance with a third exemplary embodiment.
- This scheme makes it possible to obtain lighter subsections of hair around the face and along the contour of hair growth, while leaving the top darker. This allows the hairdresser to get the smoothest color stretching.
- This scheme is suitable for both haircuts of one length, and for hair cut in a cascade.
- the hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair.
- the coloring scheme is visually presented as described above.
- the FPZ are divided by parting lines, obtaining a central triangular section, as well as peripheral sections relative to the central triangular section according to the anatomical points of the head. To do this, the following operations are performed:
- the lower occipital zone located under the horizontal parting 12 , has a small surface. In addition, swirls are often observed in this zone, which change the natural growth of hair, thereby causing difficulties in working in it.
- the implementation of the coloring method according to the present disclosure involves diagonal sections that allow the hairdresser to create stepless transitions of the colored layers of hair. To do this, the hairdresser draws a diagonal line 31 (see FIGS. 10 D and 10 E ) from one of the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting 12 to the projection point (PP) on the hairline in the lower occipital zone, thereby obtaining peripheral lower occipital sections 32 and 33 according to the anatomical points of the head. Then, the subsections of hair starting from the sections are isolated according to their direction, namely:
- the subsection of hair is held by one hand in accordance with the grabbing level selected according to the coloring scheme.
- the hairdresser holds the blow dryer and direct the air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair, while pulled away it in the direction of the cut line of the hair, thereby gradually blowing out short, medium-length, long and longer hair from it.
- the required number of blown-out layers of hair is obtained.
- the next layer of hair is blown out. From each subsection of hair, a certain number of layers of hair is obtained, preferably from 1 to 3 layers. Each obtained layer of hair is fixed and wrapped in foil. Then, the hairdresser proceeds to the hair coloring process.
- Coloring formulas are applied to the obtained layer of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, the layer of hair is wrapped in foil. All layers of hair of each subsection of hair in each section are treated in this manner.
- the color formulas are applied to the subsections of hair in the form of a horizontal zigzag pattern.
- a time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored.
- the color formulas are rinsed off the hair.
- the colored subsections of hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
- the hair is treated according to a post-coloring procedure.
- the hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. In this case, it is required to obtain more light subsections of hair around the face and along the contour of hair growth, leaving the top darker.
- the coloring scheme is visually presented as described above.
- the hairdresser selects the scheme for separating the hair into the triangular sections according to the anatomical points of the head (see FIGS. 10 A- 10 D ). The hair separation into the triangular sections is performed as described above.
- Subsections of hair are isolated in each section, and each subsection of hair is fixed with a clamp.
- the activity of the hair growth phases allows the hairdresser to select two layers of hair with two grabbing levels.
- the hairdresser grabs the subsection of hair and pull it away in the direction of the cut line of the hair. Layers of shorter hair above the grabbing level are blown out of the subsection of hair with a blow dryer.
- the hairdresser proceeds to the hair coloring process.
- a layer of long hair is colored with tone 10N (platinum blond), and a layer of short hair is colored with tone 9N (bright blond).
- the coloring process is performed according to the coloring scheme used in Example 1 (see also FIG. 7 ). More specifically, in the base triangle 22 (denoting the layer of long hair), color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots, color 8N (blonde) is indicated in the middle region, and color 10N (platinum blonde) is indicated in the remaining (end) region. As for the smaller triangle 21 (denoting the layer of short hair), color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots, and color 7N (light brown) is indicated at the ends corresponding to the middle region of the base triangle 22 .
- the coloring formulas are applied to the obtained layers of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, whereafter the layers of hair are wrapped in foil. A time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored.
- the color formulas may be applied to the subsections of hair in the form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern. Then, the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to a post-coloring procedure.
- FIGS. 11 A- 11 E show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into horseshoe-shaped sections in accordance with a fourth exemplary embodiment.
- This scheme makes it possible to set different patterns on the hair. Changing the grabbing level in each subsection of hair, it is possible to achieve noticeable visible highlights and more distinctly colored subsections of hair. It is suitable both for hair of the same length and for hair cut in a cascade style (a bob haircut).
- the hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair.
- the FPZ is separated by parting lines such that a central horseshoe-shaped section and peripheral sections relative to the central horseshoe-shaped section are formed according to the anatomical points of the head. To do this, the following operations are performed:
- the middle occipital zone located under the crescent-shaped parting 37 and above the horizontal parting 12 , has a complex relief, repeating the base of the skull, hair growth in the middle down to the neck, right and left in the direction of the auricles, which causes difficulties to work in it.
- the implementation of the coloring method according to the present disclosure involves diagonal partings, which allows the hairdresser to create stepless transitions of the colored layers of hair.
- a diagonal line 39 is drawn from one of the projection points (PP) on the crescent-shaped parting 37 to the projection point (PP) on the horizontal parting 12 ; thus, two peripheral parietal-upper occipital sections 40 and 41 are obtained according to the anatomical points of the head (see FIGS. 11 D and 11 E ).
- the lower occipital zone located under the horizontal parting 12 , has a small surface. In addition, swirls are often observed in this zone, which change the natural growth of hair, thereby causing difficulties in working in it.
- the implementation of the coloring method according to the present disclosure involves diagonal partings, which allows the hairdresser to create stepless transitions of the colored layers of hair. To do this, a diagonal line 42 is drawn from one of the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting 12 to the projection point (PP) on the hairline on the lower occipital area, thereby obtaining two peripheral lower occipital sections 43 and 44 according to the anatomical points of the head (see FIGS. 11 D and 11 E ). The subsections of hair from these sections are isolated from each other according to their direction, namely:
- the subsection of hair is held by the hairdresser in one hand in accordance with the grabbing level selected according to the coloring scheme.
- the hairdresser holds a blow dryer and directs the air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair, while pulling it away in the direction of the cut line of the hair, thereby gradually blowing short, medium-length, long and longer hair out of the subsection of hair.
- the required number of blown-out layers of hair is obtained.
- the hairdresser proceeds to the hair coloring process.
- Coloring formulas are applied to the obtained layers of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, whereafter at least one of the layers of hair is wrapped in foil. All layers of hair of each subsection of hair in each section are treated in this manner.
- the color formulas are applied to them in the form of a zigzag pattern.
- the color formulas are rinsed off the hair.
- the colored subsections of hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
- the hair is treated according to a post-coloring procedure.
- the hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. This case concerns primary coloring for hair of the same length, like in a bob haircut.
- the hairdresser selects the scheme for separating the hair into the horseshoe-shaped sections according to the anatomical points of the head (see FIGS. 11 A- 11 E ).
- the hair separation into the horseshoe-shaped section is performed as described above.
- Subsections of hair are isolated in each section, and each subsection of hair is fixed with a clamp.
- the activity of the hair growth phases allows the hairdresser to select two layers with two grabbing levels.
- the hairdresser grabs each subsection of hair and pulls it away in the direction of the cut line of the hair. Layers of shorter hair above the grabbing level are blown out of the subsection of hair with a blow dryer.
- the hairdresser then proceeds to the hair coloring process.
- each subsection of hair it is supposed to color the hair with a darker tone at their roots and make a transition to a light tone (blond) at the ends of the subsection of hair.
- a coloring scheme like the one shown in FIG. 7 may be used in this case, but with three triangles (corresponding to three layers of long, medium-length and short hair) and other tone numbers. More specifically, in a base triangle (denoting the layer of long hair), color 6N (medium blond) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots, color 8N (blonde) is indicated in the middle region, and color 10N (platinum blonde) is indicated at the ends of the subsection of hair.
- color 6N medium brown
- color 7N+8N light brown+blonde
- the coloring formulas are applied to the obtained layers of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, whereafter each colored layer of hair is wrapped in foil. All required layers of hair of each subsection of hair in each section are treated in this manner.
- the subsections of hair are colored, retreating a few centimeters from the hair roots each time.
- the color formulas may be applied to them in the form of a horizontal pattern.
- the hairdresser waits enough time for the hair to be colored.
- the color formulas are rinsed off the hair.
- the colored subsections of hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
- the hair is treated according to a post-coloring procedure.
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Abstract
A method for coloring hair on a human head using a blow dryer is provided. According to the method, the hair is separated into sections of different shape (e.g., rhombic, square, triangular, horseshoe-shaped, etc.). Then, subsections of hair are isolated in each section. Each subsection of hair is grabbed and pulled (in a direction of a cut line of the hair) with one hand of a hairdresser, and different (e.g., short, medium-length, and long) layers of hair are blown out of the subsection of hair by an air flow from the blow dryer held in another hand of the hairdresser. After that, at least one of the blown-out layers of hair is fixed (e.g., with a clamp) and colored. The hair thus colored is then rinsed and treated according to a post-coloring recipe.
Description
- The present disclosure relates to the field of hairdressing, and more specifically to a hair coloring method. The coloring method disclosed herein can be applied in beauty salons using well-known color formulas, to obtain a desired result on hair, with a smooth transition from dark to light hair tone and a high variability of coloring.
- Currently, highlighting and complex hair coloring are widely known and commonly used methods for coloring human hair, which result in a combination of natural hair and dyed hair.
- The highlighting method involves determining the highest point of a human head in its natural position, isolating a main section of hair from the human hair growing from the highest point of the human head, separating the main section of hair into smaller elementary subsections of hair, and applying a hair dye (for example, to every second elementary subsection of hair). Next, sections of hair growing below the hair of the main section of hair are isolated, and for each of them the above-described steps are repeated. After holding a temporary pause sufficient for the hair to be dyed, the dye is washed off the human head. It should be noted that different hairdressers isolate certain sections of hair from the human hair in any sequence, but the highlighting itself is characterized by the obligatory presence of the step of separating sections of hair into smaller elementary subsections of hair and the step of selectively coloring the elementary subsections of hair. As a rule, the same hair dye is used for coloring the elementary subsections of hair.
- As a result of the above-described highlighting method, the combination of natural hair and dyed hair is formed. In addition, the natural hair “masks” the regrown hair roots, for which reason a person who has colored his/her hair according to the highlighting method may not retouch his/her hair as often as a person who has colored his/her hair in the usual way.
- The complex hair coloring method involves determining the highest point of a human head in its natural position, isolating a main section of hair from the human hair growing from the highest point of the human head, and applying a hair dye to this section of hair. Next, a section of hair growing below the hair of the main section of hair is isolated, and a different (in color) hair dye is applied to this section of hair. After that, the steps of isolating and coloring sections of hair are repeated, while usually changing the color of an applied hair dye. After holding a temporary pause sufficient for the hair to be dyed, the hair dye is washed off the human head. It should be noted that different hairdressers isolate certain sections of hair from the human hair in any sequence, but this coloring method is characterized by using hair dyes of different colors for neighboring sections of hair.
- Interesting hairstyles are also obtained from the hair colored by using the complex hair coloring method, since it allows obtaining the combination of sections of hair colored in different colors. In addition, the hair colored in this way also “masks” the regrown hair roots quite well, for which reason a person how has colored his/her hair according to the complex hair coloring method may not retouch his/her hair as often as a person who has colored his/her hair in the usual way.
- The above-described hair coloring methods are characterized in that immediately after coloring, the dyed hair has the same color along its length. After some time, the hair grows and the root section of the hair is of a different color than the colored section of the hair, which makes a hairstyle, sooner or later, less attractive. Even though the highlighting and complex hair coloring methods allow one to “mask” this flaw, all the same, after a while, hair retouching is inevitable. In this case, both the regrown sections of the hair and the sections that have been previously colored and do not require additional coloring are subjected to such retouching, which unnecessarily injures the hair.
- RU2308861 discloses a method for coloring the hair of a human head, at the beginning of which the highest point of the human head in its natural position is determined. A main section of hair is isolated from the hair growing from the highest point of the head. A first hair dye is applied to the root section of the main section of hair. Sections of hair growing below the hair of the main section of hair are sequentially isolated, and the first hair dye is applied to the root sections of the isolated sections of hair. A second hair dye, the color of which is lighter than the color of the first hair dye, is applied to those sections of the isolated sections of hair which are free from the first hair dye. After holding a temporary pause sufficient for the hair to be dyed, the hair dyes are washed off the hair of the human head. As a result, the human hair along their length is dyed in different (in tone) colors, while eliminating the need to retouch the root sections of the hair for a long time.
- However, the method disclosed in RU2308861 does not allow one to obtain smooth and soft color transitions on the hair. Furthermore, it does not allow one to correct the root zone without affecting the previously lightened or previously dyed hair, which is important for shades of “blond” and all complexly colored options.
- Currently, the peak of popularity in the field of hair coloring belongs to naturalness, giving the hair the most natural shade, while the hair should also look healthy and vibrant.
- The classical highlighting method has undergone major changes, resulting in the following coloring techniques: shatush, ombre and balayage. Each of them gives the hair a natural effect of fading in the sun, and in all hair, there is a contrast between the roots and tips.
- Shatush provides a smooth transition from dark to lighter shades and is characterized by its principle of applying a hair dye. This process is performed in according with the “free-hand technique”, i.e., without using additional tools and means, and even without foil.
- The hair dye or lightener is applied with a conventional coloring brush. Before that, the hair is separated into thin sections of hair and combed from the roots. This will allow one to create an “air cushion” that will prevent excessive staining of the section of hair. Thus, the hair dye will affect only individual upper hairs, which will provide an imperceptible color transition.
- The tips of the hair are more abundantly stained, and closer to the roots, the hair dye is stretched in thin stripes. Sometimes a single section of hair is colored in a V-shape.
- At the same time, negligence in the performance of actions does not adversely affect the result. The lighter and more chaotic the shade is applied, the more natural the hairstyle will look. Shatush is most suitable for brunettes and brown-haired women. Shatush requires more frequent adjustments, once a month. Everything depends on the selected shade and the speed of hair growth. Shatush is a coloring method in which a colorist uses two or three similar (in tone) shades as close as possible to the natural color of the hair. Due to the soft stretching of the dye along the sections of hair, the effect of sun-faded hair with slight highlights is achieved. However, the bouffant does not allow one to get as close as possible to the roots and does not allow one to do parallel manipulations with the hair that remained outside the lightening, i.e., which are directly in the bouffant.
- Ombre is translated as “shadow” and, unlike shatush, has a clearer border of color transition. This is a multi-stage hair coloring technique. It allows one to obtain natural overflows of several shades of color—for example, from light blond to dark chestnut. To make the color transition noticeable, ombre is applied to dark sections of hair. The transition is made from a dark root zone to light tips. In this case, the border in the middle between the two shades is blurred. The transition to a light tone can begin from the middle of the hair length.
- When coloring, a hair dye is applied to a selected area and covered with foil. After the expiry of the time required for the hair to be dyed, the dye is washed off. The dye is re-applied to the previously treated area, shifting the top line by a couple of centimeters. It is again covered with foil, and after a while the dye is washed off. Ombre is suitable for haircuts with short hair. It looks more impressive on dark hair.
- Balayage means “sweep” in French, since the work of a hairdresser with a brush when applying a coloring composition to the hair resembles wide sweeps of a broom.
- When using balayage, the ends of the hair and sections of hair are highlighted with color, starting from the middle.
- A hair dye is applied in a V-shaped or W-shaped manner. First, the sides of a selected section of hair are colored, and then its ends. Two or three shades are used, “flowing” into each other. Color transitions can be sharp or smooth, without clear boundaries.
- Unlike shatush, the coloring composition is applied to the entire area, i.e., the lower part is highlighted more clearly. In this balayage is similar to ombre. However, the shades used in the former case are closer to a natural hair color. In addition, balayage involves vertical rather than horizontal coloring, which results in more blurred transitions of shades. Thus, one can say that balayage is something between shatush and ombre.
- All the above-described coloring methods, with the exception of shatush, involve working with the sections of hair in a plane, not allowing one to separate the dyed hair into dark and light and color only those parts of the hair in the sections which need coloring or color correction. In addition, these methods do not allow one to obtain a predictable desired result on the hair, to obtain a smooth transition from a dark tone to a light tone of the hair and a high variability in coloring.
- Shatush is meant to work with volume, and coloring is done randomly, for which reason shatush is not intended to obtain a desired result on the hair.
- The common problem of light (blond) hair, which consists in dullness and loss of color, is well known. This is due to the high susceptibility of light sections of hair to the environment and the cosmetics used. Blonde hair is kind of empty. They are light due to the fact that they lack color pigments. That is why the hair of blondes tend to often change shade, giving off yellowness or grayness. Also, every blonde, especially natural, has observed such a phenomenon as a difference in shade at the roots, along the entire length and at the tips. This phenomenon is caused by the fact that bleached light hair tends to absorb the elements of the environment. Smog, tobacco smoke, dirt, precipitation settle on the hair and change their shade, giving yellowness or grayness. Hair changes color from the fact that elements of a polluted environment fall under their scales. In addition, regrown and previously colored blond hair needs color correction both in the root zone and along the entire length of the sections of hair.
- In reality, a section of long light hair has an uneven color along its length: uncolored hair in the root zone has a natural color; further along the entire length it acquires yellowness; at the ends—gray; in previously dyed blond hair in the root zone, regrown hair has a natural color, darker than along the entire length; further along the entire length it has a previously colored color or acquired yellowness.
- The need to maintain a beautiful, even blonde color forces blondes to resort to frequent dyeing or color correction of the hair, which leads to unnecessary damage to the hair, dryness and brittle ends of the hair. As a result, there are few blondes with healthy hair lengths in the world.
- All existing methods for coloring blond hair do not allow one to separate the dyed hair into dark and light and color only those parts of the hair in the sections of hair which require dyeing or color correction. In the known methods, coloring or dyeing is carried out along the entire length of a section of hair, a hair dye is applied both to recently colored areas and to newly grown areas or areas requiring color correction, which causes damage to the hair. In addition, the known methods do not allow one to obtain a predictable desired result on the hair, to obtain a smooth transition from a dark tone to a light tone of the hair and a high variability in coloring.
- This summary is provided to introduce a selection of concepts in a simplified form that are further described below in the detailed description. This summary is not intended to identify key features of the present disclosure, nor is it intended to be used to limit the scope of the present disclosure.
- It is an objective of the present disclosure to provide a technical solution that enables efficient hair coloring, while providing the maximum preservation of the quality of hair with any kind of lightening and with any color correction of the root zone.
- The objective above is achieved by the features of the independent claim in the appended claims. Further embodiments and examples are apparent from the dependent claims, the detailed description, and the accompanying drawings.
- According to the present disclosure, a hair coloring method is provided. All steps of the method are intended to be performed by a hairdresser. The method starts with the step of separating hair on a head of a person into sections (e.g., rhombic, square, triangular, horseshoe-shaped, etc.) by parting the hair based on anatomical points of the head. Then, the method proceeds to the step of isolating, in each of the sections of the hair, subsections of hair based on a direction of hair growth in the section. Each of the subsections of hair comprises a layer of long hair and a layer of short hair. Next, the method goes on to the following steps performed on each of the subsections of hair:
-
- grabbing the subsection of hair with one hand close to an end of the layer of long hair;
- holding a blow dryer in another hand and directing an air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair, while pulling away the subsection of hair in a direction of a cut line of the hair, thereby gradually blowing the layer of short hair out of the subsection of hair;
- fixing each of the layer of long hair and the layer of short hair with a clamp;
- sequentially removing the clamps and coloring the layer of long hair and/or the layer of short hair by using a color formula;
- wrapping the colored layer of long hair and/or the colored layer of short hair in a foil; and
- upon expiry of a time period prescribed for the color formula, removing the foil from the colored layer of long hair and/or the colored layer of short hair;
- When all the isolated subsections of hair are treated in this way, the method proceeds to the step of rinsing the color formula off the hair. After that, the method goes on to the step of treating the hair according to a post-coloring recipe.
- By using the method according to the present disclosure, it is possible to color only required parts of the hair in the subsections of hair (i.e., those parts of the hair which require dyeing or color correction). Thus, the method according to the present disclosure allows one to achieve a desired result on the hair (e.g., to obtain a smooth transition from a dark tone to a light tone of the hair).
- In one embodiment, the step of coloring by using the color formula comprises applying at least two different colors to the layer of long hair and/or the layer of short hair. By doing so, it is possible to provide a high variability in hair coloring.
- In one embodiment, the step of coloring by using the color formula comprises applying the color formula to the subsections of hair in a form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern. By doing so, it is possible to ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair.
- In one embodiment, the method further comprises the step of tinting each of the subsections of hair, after the step of rinsing the color formula off the hair but before the step of treating the hair according to the post-coloring recipe. Said tinting may allow one to neutralize unwanted shades.
- In one embodiment, the step of coloring by using the color formula is performed in accordance with a graphic coloring scheme which shows the layer of long hair in the subsection of hair as a first triangle and the layer of short hair in the subsection of hair as a second triangle. The first triangle has a base representing a root hairline and an apex representing an end of the subsection of hair. The second triangle is smaller than the first triangle and is shown in the graphic coloring scheme as extending beyond the first triangle. In this embodiment, the graphic coloring scheme further shows a border of a root zone, boundaries of coloring areas, and the color formula to be applied in each of the first triangle and the second triangle. By using the graphic coloring scheme, the whole hair coloring method may be performed quickly and conveniently for the hairdresser (i.e., the hairdresser does not need to keep in mind all the information about colors and/or tones to be used for a particular person; instead, the hairdresser can simply find it in the graphic coloring scheme).
- Other features and advantages of the present disclosure will be apparent upon reading the following detailed description and reviewing the accompanying drawings.
- The present disclosure is explained below with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:
-
FIGS. 1A and 1B show schematic top and side views, respectively, of different layers of hair in a subsection of hair; -
FIG. 2 shows a schematic top view of a subsection of hair with two different layers of hair; -
FIG. 3 shows a graphic coloring scheme for the subsection of hair fromFIG. 2 ; -
FIGS. 4A-4C show a classical scheme for separating hair on a human head into sections; -
FIGS. 5A-5C show a layout of anatomical points of the human head; -
FIG. 6 schematically explains a hair coloring method in accordance with one exemplary embodiment; -
FIG. 7 shows a graphic coloring scheme for a subsection of hair with two different layers of hair in accordance with one exemplary embodiment; -
FIGS. 8A-8D show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into rhombic sections in accordance with a first exemplary embodiment; -
FIGS. 9A-9D show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into square sections in accordance with a second exemplary embodiment; -
FIGS. 10A-10E show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into triangular sections in accordance with a third exemplary embodiment; and -
FIGS. 11A-11E show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into horseshoe-shaped sections in accordance with a fourth exemplary embodiment. - Various embodiments of the present disclosure are further described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings. However, the present disclosure may be embodied in many other forms and should not be construed as limited to any certain structure or function discussed in the following description. In contrast, these embodiments are provided to make the description of the present disclosure detailed and complete.
- According to the detailed description, it will be apparent to the ones skilled in the art that the scope of the present disclosure encompasses any embodiment thereof, which is disclosed herein, irrespective of whether this embodiment is implemented independently or in concert with any other embodiment of the present disclosure. For example, the method disclosed herein may be implemented in practice by using any numbers of the embodiments provided herein. Furthermore, it should be understood that any embodiment of the present disclosure may be implemented using one or more of the features presented in the appended claims.
- The word “exemplary” is used herein in the meaning of “used as an illustration”. Unless otherwise stated, any embodiment described herein as “exemplary” should not be construed as preferable or having an advantage over other embodiments.
- In the embodiments disclosed herein, the terms “colored (layer of) hair” and “dyed (layer of) hair” are used interchangeably, so that each of them refers to (layer of) hair having a color formula (or, in other words, hair color or dye) applied thereto.
- The embodiments disclosed herein refer to a method for coloring hair on a human head using a blow dryer. The method is the result of experiments carried out by the present inventor over two years. According to the method, the hair is separated into sections of different shape (e.g., rhombic, square, triangular, horseshoe-shaped, etc.). Then, subsections of hair are isolated in each section. Each subsection of hair is grabbed and pulled (in a direction of a cut line of the hair) with one hand of a hairdresser, and different (e.g., short, medium-length, and long) layers of hair are blown out of the subsection of hair by an air flow from the blow dryer held in another hand of the hairdresser. After that, at least one of the blown-out layers of hair is fixed (e.g., with a clamp) and colored. The hair thus colored is then rinsed and treated according to a post-coloring recipe.
- Layer of Hair
- Each hair has a trunk (shaft) protruding from the scalp and root. The lower, expanded part of the hair root is called the bulb. Due to the bulbs, hair grows, as well as new hair is formed. The life cycle of the hair consists of three stages; its duration varies from 2 to 5 years. Each hair follicle is genetically programmed to produce approximately 25-27 hair shafts. Each hair lives according to its “individual schedule,” and therefore different hairs are at the same time at different stages of their life cycle: 85% of the hair is in the active growth phase (anagen), 1% of the hair is in the resting phase (catagen), and 14% of the hair is in the stage of prolapse (telogen). The length of each hair depends on what phase it is in. The smallest length is peculiar to a newly starting hair, the so-called underhair. The greatest length of hair is in the resting phase before hair loss or during hair loss.
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FIGS. 1A and 1B show schematic top and side views, respectively, of different layers of hair in a subsection of hair. In other words,FIGS. 1A and 1B show the subsection of hair with different hair growth phases. The subsection of hair itself is schematically shown as an elongated triangle. If the subsection of hair is exposed to an air flow from a blow dryer, it is separated from the shortest to the longest (seeFIG. 1B ), i.e., a “fan” is created. These hair groups of different lengths are herein referred to as layers of hair. The length and thickness of layers of hair vary between people. The number of layers of hair in the subsection of hair depends on the activity of the growth phases. At the end, the subsection of hair contains the longest hair, but contain only a small amount of long hair, while the roots have the shortest hair, and a large number of them. A rapid change in the growth phases (quickly regrown hair) indicates a high activity of the layers of hair, i.e., many layers of hair. - When coloring according to the proposed method, each subsection of hair is pulled away, with one hand of a hairdresser, in the direction of a hair cut line, directing a cold air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair. By doing so, one part of the hair is “blown out” (i.e., layers of shorter hair), and another part of the hair (i.e., layers of longer hair) remains in the hand of the hairdresser.
- Grabbing Level
- As used in the embodiments disclosed herein, a grabbing level is the distance from the root zone, at which the hairdresser holds a given subsection of hair with his/her fingers when blowing the subsection of hair with the blow dryer. The grabbing level determines the ratio of light and dark colors in the colored subsection of hair. When the layers of hair are highly active, the grabbing level is taken higher, i.e., closer to the root zone, where the dark color of regrown and newly grown hair dominates.
- Coloring Scheme
- According to the embodiments disclosed herein, a coloring scheme is a plan for a coloring process, which the hairdresser draws after studying the condition of hair. The coloring scheme may include, but not limited to, the boundaries of the application of color formulas (i.e., hair dyes), a post-coloring recipe, color formula numbers, and their percentage on each layer of hair. For convenience, the coloring scheme may be presented graphically.
-
FIG. 2 shows a schematic top view of a subsection of hair with two different layers of hair. More specifically, the subsection of hair comprises a layer of long hair and a layer of short hair. The layer of long hair is schematically shown as a base (elongated)triangle 22, while the layer of short hair is schematically shown as asmaller triangle 21. Thebase triangle 22 may have a base corresponding to a root hairline and an apex corresponding the end of the subsection of hair. Thesmaller triangle 21 is applied to thebase triangle 22. -
FIG. 3 shows a graphic coloring scheme for the subsection of hair fromFIG. 2 . As shown inFIG. 3 , for visualization, thesmaller triangle 21 corresponding to the layer of short hair extends beyond thebase triangle 22, so that the hairdresser can indicate corresponding coloring-related information thereon (e.g., shades, etc.). As should be apparent, the number of the triangles (i.e., layers of hair) shown inFIG. 3 is given for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as any limitation of the present disclosure. In general, there may be more than two triangles shown in the graphic coloring scheme, with each of them corresponding to a certain layer of hair (i.e., a layer constituted by hair of certain length) and being provided with certain coloring-related information, such as the border of the root zone, the border of the application of color formulas, color formula numbers, shades, mixtures, and their percentage on each layer of hair, etc. - Hair Separation Scheme
- As used in the embodiments disclosed herein, a hair separation scheme is a scheme according to which hair on a human head is separated into sections or zones, taking into account the anatomical features or points of the head. The hair separation scheme is applied at the beginning of the hair coloring method according to the present disclosure.
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FIGS. 4A-4C show a classical scheme for separating hair on a human head into sections. The classical separation is based on the anatomical features of the shape of the human skull, with some certain metric characteristics (dimensions, lines of curvature, transitions, depressions, bulges, etc.). The sections are artificial lines that separate and divide the scalp into zones to facilitate access and provide the ability to work with each zone separately. - The area of the scalp is a certain section of the scalp that is allocated by the hairdresser in the coloring process. The following classical zones are known in hairdressing: frontal-parietal zone (FPZ), temporal-lateral zone (TLZ), upper occipital zone (UOZ), middle occipital zone (MOZ) and lower occipital zone (LOZ).
- The FPZ is limited in front by the edge of hair growth on the forehead, behind—by the upper part of the nape (along the central radial parting), and on the sides by the temporal-lateral zones. It is in the FPZ that the bulk of the hair volume is formed. The hair in the FPZ grows mainly from the top of the head to the face. The main hair whorl is at the top of the head, along its border, and determines the streaming and direction of hair growth. In the FPZ, there is a natural parting (the only strip of skin against the background of hair), which can be in the middle, left, right, diagonally, or completely absent. The FPZ is crucial in solving the general appearance of a model. Therefore, according to the present disclosure, the central sections in the form of “rhombus”, “square”, “triangle”, “horseshoe” are provided in the FPZ.
- The left and right TLZs are limited, at the place of attachment of the auricle, by a vertical section and are adjacent to the FPZ.
- The UOZ above the left and right ears is bordered by the TLZ. In the UOZ, there are two upper occipital tubercles and a mid-occipital tubercle.
- The direction or run of hair growth in the UOZ is a multidirectional swirl. A part of hair grows towards the face, the other—down, to the neck, left and right in the area of the auricles. When coloring, this zone requires a thorough and flexible approach. It is in this zone that the flaws of the skull shape, which affect the solution of the tasks of the hairdresser, clearly manifest themselves.
- The MOZ rests against the auricles on the left and on the right, borders on the UOZ at the top, and the bottom line of this zone repeats the base of the skull, which is perfectly palpable in this zone. Here, the hair grows in the middle down to the neck, right and left in the direction of the auricles.
- The lower occipital protuberance is on the lower border in the zone. The line of the sagittal section passes exactly through it. The lower boundary of the MOZ sharply goes deep and reduces the volume of the zone. The line of curvature of the outgoing volume causes difficulties for work on it.
- The LOZ is located outside the surface of the skull, namely on the neck. Here, the hair grows down to the auricles. In areas to the left and right of the sagittal section, swirls are often observed, which in turn completely change the natural growth of hair, up to the formation of swirls with the opposite direction of growth.
-
FIGS. 5A-5C show a layout of anatomical points of the human head. More specifically,FIGS. 5A-5C show the following anatomical points: -
- CP—central point—the first point at the intersection of the hairline and the extension line of a central
vertical parting 11; - HPC—the highest point of the crown—the highest point of the head at the intersection of a central
radial parting 10 and the centralvertical parting 11; - MPC—the middle point of the crown—the point between HPC and LPC;
- LPC—the lower point of the crown—the point at the intersection of the central
vertical parting 11 and ahorizontal parting 12; - UPT—the upper point of the temple—the point on a vertical line from the center of the pupil or bulge of the eyebrow to the intersection with the hairline;
- MPT—the middle point of the temple—the point at the intersection of the hairline and the line of the jugular connection;
- LPT—the lower point of the temple—the point in the recess near the auricle;
- O—the occipitalis—the point on the lower border of the nape bulge.
- CP—central point—the first point at the intersection of the hairline and the extension line of a central
- All the points listed above are, for the most part, quite pronounced and can be determined by touch.
-
FIGS. 5A-5C also shows one more point—PP—the projection point. - As for the central
radial parting 10, it is an arch from ear to ear through the crown. It separates the parietal zone from the upper occipital. - As for the central
vertical parting 11, it divides the upper and lower occipital zones into two halves. - As for the
horizontal parting 12, it separates the upper occipital zone from the lower, passes from ear to ear through the occipital tubercles and the lower point of the crown (LPC). -
FIG. 6 schematically explains a hair coloring method in accordance with one exemplary embodiment. According to the method, a hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. As noted earlier, the coloring scheme may graphically present a subsection of hair in the form of a base (elongated) triangle (seeFIG. 3 ), the base of which is a root hairline, while the apex of which is the end of the subsection of hair. A smaller triangle is applied to the base triangle, corresponding to a layer of shorter hair. For convenience, the smaller triangle extends beyond the base triangle. On each triangle-layer, a coloring scheme is applied, which may include, but not limited to, the border of the root zone, the border of the application of color formulas, a recipe, color formula numbers in each layer of hair. - Those skilled in the art will recognize that the terms “color formula” (or “dye”) and “color formula number” (or “dye number”) may also refer to shades, tones, mixtones, and their ratios. Further in the text, the terms “color formula” and “color formula number” will be used in this sense.
- Depending on the type of a haircut and the length of the hair, a scheme for separating the hair into sections according to the anatomical points of the head is selected (see
FIGS. 5A-5C ). - In each section, subsections of hair are isolated, and each subsection of hair is fixed with a clamp. Depending on the activity of the hair growth phases corresponding to layers of hair in the subsection of hair, a grabbing level for the subsection of hair is selected.
- As shown in
FIG. 6 , the hairdresser grabs the subsection of hair in accordance with the grabbing level and pull away in the direction of the haircut. The hairdresser holds a blow dryer in the other hand and directs an air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair, step by step blowing out the layers of hair that are above the grabbing level, resulting in blowing out the layers of hair above the grabbing level. The blown-out layers of hair are denoted inFIG. 6 as layers B, C, D, and E. The rest hair (i.e., those in layer A) remains in the hand for coloring. Each blown-out layer of hair is fixed. A coloring formula is applied to each layer of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme and wrapped in a foil. A time period sufficient for coloring the hair is maintained. To ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair, the color formula may be applied to the subsections of hair in the form of a horizontal or a zigzag pattern. Then, the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to a post-coloring procedure. - During the initial coloring (first visit to the hairdresser), the separation of each subsection of hair into two layers of hair is usually enough. During the secondary coloring (second visit to the hairdresser), the separation of each subsection of hair into three layers of hair is required. The longest layer of hair and the middle layer of hair are dyed with a lighter color; the color formula is applied according to the coloring scheme. Color correction is carried out, if necessary. During the third coloring (third visit to the hairdresser), the hairdresser works with the shortest layer of hair, making the root zone colored with a lighter color, without affecting all other hair.
- In more detail, the color correction can be described as follows.
- If a client arrives four or more months after the coloring, then the hairdresser can separate the same first subsections of hair by using the blow dryer as explained above, and lighten the root zone, because the light part is clearly separated from the dark and overgrown zone in the first layers of hair, which were colored four or more months ago. If the client wants to add more light color, then without affecting the long subsections of hair that have grown in the root zone, the hairdresser can take the middle layer of hair and add light tones to make a smoother transition from the root zone.
- At the next visit, one of two layers of hair is worked on: either the very first, longest, or middle. Work is carried out with all three layers, and alternately, every two to three months, replacing them with each other, only in the case when a large amount of blond is needed, almost total blond.
- When light stretching is needed, the hairdresser works with long layers of hair. A middle layer of hair is treated extremely rarely when dark gradient coloring is needed. If more blond is needed, the middle layer of hair is added. If even more blond is needed, then a third layer of hair is added. In addition, it is possible to alternate between the layers of hair.
- Thus, the hairdresser can get all the layers of hair in the subsection of hair. Over time, the hair grows and changes back to its original color, but the proposed method allows the hairdresser to separate the layers of light hair from the layers of dark hair and color only required areas of the hair. The hairdresser can predict a year ahead and schedule the time when the correction of the colored hair can be done without injuring the hair, taking into account each individual case.
- The proposed coloring method makes it possible to separate the colored hair into dark and light, to highlight the hair to be colored, without affecting the rest hair. If the hair does not need to be lightened, it will not be damaged. The hairdresser works only with a layer of hair that should be lightened. There is no other coloring method, where such separation of the subsection of hair into light and dark color is achieved. The method makes it possible to obtain a smooth transition from a dark tone to a light tone over the entire volume of the subsection of hair and a high variability of coloring, thereby maintaining maximum hair quality for any kind of lightening and for any correction of the root zone.
- The following are non-limiting examples of the specific implementation of the proposed hair coloring method according to the first embodiment.
- A hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines the number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. In this example, the matter concerns the hair of medium length (shoulder length), i.e., a bob haircut, and it is assumed that unsuccessful previous coloring led to the effect of burnt hair. The hair is separated into subsections of hair in each section, and each subsection of hair is clamped. The activity of the hair growth phases allows the hairdresser to select two layers of hair with two grabbing levels. The hairdresser grabs the subsection of hair in accordance with the first grabbing level, closer to the end of the subsection of hair, and pull away in the direction of the haircut. The layer of shorter hair above the grabbing level are blown out with a blow dryer from the subsection of hair and fixed with a clamp. The rest of the hair in the subsection of hair is grabbed in accordance with the second grabbing level, closer to the roots of the hair, and fixed with a clamp. A coloring scheme is made, in which the layer of long hair is shown as the base (elongated)
triangle 22 and the layer of shot hair is shown as thesmaller triangle 21 extending beyond thebase triangle 22. The coloring scheme also indicates color tones on each of thetriangles 21, 22 (i.e., for each of the two layers) (seeFIG. 7 ). For the base triangle 22 (i.e., the layer of long hair),color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots,color 8N (blonde) is indicated in the middle region, andcolor 10N (platinum blonde) is indicated in the remaining region. Correspondingly, for the smaller triangle 21 (i.e., the layer of short hair),color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots, andcolor 7N (light brown) is indicated at the ends corresponding to the middle region of thebase triangle 22. - A foil is placed under each of the two layers of hair, and a color formula is applied according to the coloring scheme.
- A time period sufficient for the hair to be colored with the color formula is maintained. Then, the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to a post-coloring recipe.
- As a result of such coloring, the desired effect is obtained—a beautiful blonde with a smooth transition of tones, i.e., the effect of the natural color of burnt hair. This is one of the most difficult color corrections.
- The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored during a second visit after the initial coloring. Secondary coloring is required due to the fact that a layer of regrown hair has appeared, which brings a dark tone to the initially colored blond. The hairdresser determines the number of layers of hair. Hair growth activity allows the hairdresser to distinguish three layers of hair with two grabbing levels.
- The longest layer of hair is isolated and fixed with a clamp. Medium-length and short layers of hair are blown out from the remaining hair with an air flow from a blow dryer. Color correction is made on the middle layer of hair by using
tone 7N (light blond). The previously colored long layer of hair is lightened withtone 8N (blond). The short layer of hair is not affected and thus is not damaged. - Subsequently, the method is carried out as in Example 1.
- As a result, the effect of burnt hair is “refreshed” and a smooth transition of tones is obtained over the entire volume of the subsection of hair, since in the subsection of hair, short layers of hair with darker tones are added to longer layers of lightened hair, without causing undue damage to short layers of hair.
- The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored during a third visit, i.e., after the secondary coloring. A layer of newly regrown hair of the original color has appeared. Hair growth activity allows the hairdresser to separate the very first layer of hair. Consistently blowing out long layers of hair, the grabbing level is brought closer to the root zone, taking out the very first layer of newly regrown hair. The hairdresser corrects this layer by using
tone 6N, without affecting the long layers of hair, and without unnecessarily injuring them. - Subsequently, the method is carried out as in Example 1.
- The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored. The client wants to brighten the hair. By using the highest grabbing level, the long layer of hair is isolated, blowing out all the short layers of hair. The hairdresser then lays a foil under the long layer of hair and apply brightening
composition 8N. - Subsequently, the method is carried out as in Example 1.
- The above-given examples are not exhaustive; they are given only for the best understanding of the proposed method.
- To obtain a predicted desired result of hair coloring, it is necessary to adapt the coloring process to a certain type of haircut to prevent short hair from falling out of the grip and, therefore, to have dark uncolored hair at the ends of the subsections of hair. In the proposed method, such a phenomenon is not possible.
- The present inventor has adapted the hair coloring method to different hair separation schemes, namely: “rhombus”, “square”, “triangle”, and “horseshoe”.
-
FIGS. 8A-8D show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into rhombic sections in accordance with a first exemplary embodiment. This scheme is suitable for the hair of the same length, for example, a bob haircut. - The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. The coloring scheme is visually presented in the same manner as described above.
- The hairdresser selects the scheme of separating the hair into rhombic sections according to the anatomical points of the head.
- The frontal-parietal zone (FPZ) of the head is crucial in deciding the general appearance of the colored hair. However, the different direction of hair growth in this zone complicates the work of the hairdresser. The hair in the FPZ grows mainly from the top of the head to the face. At the top of the head, along its border, there is the main swirl, which determines the direction of hair growth. There is a natural parting in the FPZ. To facilitate access to the layers of hair and the possibility of obtaining a desired result on the colored hair, the FPZ is divided into diagonal section lines, highlighting a central rhombic section, as follows:
-
- the central
radial parting 10 and the centralvertical parting 11 are drawn through the highest point of the crown (HPC); - two parallel partings from the upper points of the temple (UPT) to the projection points (PP) on the central
radial parting 10 are drawn (seeFIG. 8C ); - a line segment equal to the distance from the HPC to the PP on the central
radial parting 10 is measured and laid from the PP to an intersection with the centralvertical parting 11 of the projection, thereby obtaining two sides of a rhombus; - a segment equal to a segment from the HPC to the top of the two resulting sides is laid on another side of the central
radial parting 10; - a resulting point is connected by the parting lines with the PP, thereby obtaining the central section in the form of the rhombus from the hair on the head of the person;
- from the parting lines forming the rear sides of the central rhombic section, the central
vertical parting 11 and the centralradial parting 10, peripheraloccipital sections - from the lines of two parallel front partings and the central
radial parting 10, peripheraltemporal sections - from the parting lines forming the front sides of the central rhombic section, the central
vertical parting 11 and the two parallel front partings, peripheralparietal sections 5 and 6 are obtained relative to the central rhombic section according to the anatomical points of the head.
- the central
- From the hair growing in the above sections, subsections of hair are isolated, which have directions shown in
FIG. 8A-8D , namely: -
- in the
occipital sections parietal sections 5, 6, the direction of the subsections of hair is parallel to the corresponding sides of the rhombic section; - in the
temporal sections - in a
rhombic section 7, the direction of the subsections of hair is arbitrary, i.e., it can be vertical, horizontal, or diagonal.
- in the
- Each subsection of hair is fixed with a clamp. Depending on the activity of the hair growth phases corresponding to the layers of hair, the grabbing levels in the subsection of hair are selected.
- The subsection of hair is held by one hand in accordance with the grabbing level selected according to the coloring scheme. A blow dryer is held in the other hand, and an air flow from the blow dryer is directed through the subsection of hair.
- The subsection of hair is pulled away in the direction of the haircut according to the haircut, gradually blowing out short, medium-length, longer and longest hair from it, resulting in a required number of blown-out layers of hair. By making the grabbing level higher, a next layer of hair is blown out. From each subsection of hair, a certain number of layers of hair is obtained, preferably from 1 to 3 layers.
- A coloring formula is applied to the obtained layer of long hair in accordance with the coloring scheme. The colored layer of hair is wrapped in foil. All the longest layers of hair in all subsections of hair in each section are colored and wrapped. A next coloring formula is then applied to a layer of short hair in accordance with the coloring scheme. Thus, all subsequent layers of hair in all subsections of hair in each section are colored and wrapped. The subsections of hair are colored, either a few centimeters from the roots or right next to the roots, depending on the indication on the coloring scheme, in order to obtain a desired effect.
- To ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair, the color formulas are applied to the subsections of hair in the form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern.
- A time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored.
- The color formulas are rinsed off of the hair.
- The colored subsections of hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
- The hair is treated according to a given post-coloring method.
- The hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored. This case relates to the haircut of the same length, like a bob haircut. The correction of previously colored hair is required. The activity of the hair growth phases allows the hairdresser to select two layers of hair with two grabbing levels. The coloring chart is the same as shown in
FIG. 3 . - The hairdresser selects the scheme for separating the hair into rhombic sections according to the anatomical points of the head (see
FIGS. 8A-8D ). This hair separation into the rhombic sections is performed as described above. - Each subsection of hair in each section is fixed with a clamp.
- The subsection of hair is held by one hand in accordance with the grabbing level selected according to the coloring scheme. The hairdresser holds a blow dryer in the other hand and directs the air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair.
- The subsection of hair is pulled away in the direction of the cut line of the hair. Short hair is blown out, leaving a layer of long hair in the hairdresser's hand. The resulting layer is fixed.
- A color formula is applied to the resulting layer of layer hair in accordance with the 6N (medium blond) coloring scheme; in subsequent sections, in accordance with the grabbing level indicated in the scheme, lighter tones are applied: in the middle region—7N+8N (light blond+blond), at the ends—9N+10N (bright blond+platinum blond). The hairdresser wraps the colored layer of hair in foil. Thus, all first layers of hair in the subsections of hair in each section are colored. A next color formula is then applied to a second layer of short hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, for example, 6N at the roots and 7N+8N (light blond+blond) in the subsequent region, and the second layer of hair is wrapped in foil. In this way, all second layers of hair in the subsections of hair in each section are colored. The hairdresser colors the subsections of hair, retreating a few centimeters from the roots.
- A time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored. To ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair, the color formulas is applied to the subsections of hair in the form of a zigzag pattern.
- The colored subsections of hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades. Then, the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to a post-coloring method.
-
FIGS. 9A-9D show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into square sections in accordance with a second exemplary embodiment. This scheme is suitable for haircuts with bangs, and for hair trimmed with a cascade (a bob haircut). In addition, the hair separation into the square sections solves the problem of obtaining a more uniform color from roots to ends, e.g., a more even blond. - The hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. The coloring scheme is visually presented as described above.
- The hair is separated into the square sections according to the anatomical points of the head.
- The square sections are formed according to the anatomical points of the head by using partings.
- To facilitate access to the layers of hair and the possibility of obtaining the desired result on the colored hair, the FPZ is separated by using diagonal, vertical and horizontal parting lines, while highlighting a central square section. To do this, the following operations are performed:
-
- through the highest point of the crown (HPC), the central
radial parting 10 and the centralvertical parting 11 are drawn; - through the lower points of the temple (LPT) and the point of occipitalis (O), a
horizontal parting 12 is drawn (seeFIG. 9B ); - two parallel parting lines are drawn, which extend from the upper points of the temple (UPT) to the projection points (PP) on the
horizontal parting 12 and then to the hairline on the lower occipital area; - from the midpoint of the crown (MPC), a horizontal line is drawn to the intersection with the parallel parting lines, thereby obtaining a central
square section 14; - the resulting intersection points are connected by diagonal lines with the midpoints of the temple (MPT) on the hairline of the parietal zone, thereby obtaining first 15, second 16, third 17, fourth 18 sectors of the central square section (see
FIG. 9A ); - from the parting lines forming the vertical sides of the central square section, the central
vertical parting 11 and thehorizontal parting 12, peripheral temporal-occipital sections 8 and 9 are obtained relative to the central square section according to the anatomical points of the head.
- through the highest point of the crown (HPC), the central
- The lower occipital area, located under the
horizontal parting 12, has a small surface. In addition, swirls are often observed in this zone, which change the natural growth of hair, thereby causing difficulties in working in it. The implementation of the hair coloring method according to the present disclosure involves diagonal sections that allow one to create stepless transitions of layers of colored hair. To do this, the hairdresser draws a diagonal line on thehorizontal parting 12 to the projection point (PP) on the hairline in the lower occipital area and obtains peripheral loweroccipital sections FIGS. 9A-9E , namely: -
- in the lower
occipital section 19, the direction of the subsections of hair is parallel to the diagonal line separating the occipital sections; - in the lower
occipital section 20, the direction of the subsections of hair is perpendicular to the diagonal line separating the lower occipital sections; - in the temporal-
occipital sections 8 and 9, the direction of the subsections of hair coincides with the direction of natural hair growth; - in the
sectors square section 14, the direction of the subsections of hair is radial with respect to the intersection point of the diagonals of the square.
- in the lower
- Each subsection of hair is fixed. The subsection of hair is grabbed by one hand in accordance with the grabbing level selected according to the coloring scheme. The other hand holds a blow dryer and directs the air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair, which is pulled away perpendicular to the surface of the head, thereby gradually blowing out short, medium-length, longer and longest hair. From each subsection of hair, a certain number of layers is obtained, preferably 1 to 3 layers. Each of those layers are fixed with a clamp.
- The resulting layer of hair is colored according to the coloring scheme and wrapped in foil. All layers of hair in each subsection of hair in each section are treated in this manner.
- To ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair, color formulas are applied to them in the form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern.
- A time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored.
- The color formulas are rinsed off the hair.
- The subsections of colored hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
- The hair is treated according to a post-coloring method.
- The hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. This case concerns primary hair coloring with a cascading haircut. A client wants to get a smooth transition from a darker color at the hair roots to a very light color at the ends of the hair. The hairdresser selects the scheme for separating the hair into the square sections according to the anatomical points of the head (see
FIGS. 9A-9D ). The hair separation into the square sections is performed as described above. - Subsections of hair are isolated in each section, and each subsection of hair is fixed with a clamp. The activity of the hair growth phases allows the hairdresser to select two layers with two grabbing levels (see
FIG. 3 ). - The hairdresser grabs the subsection of hair and holds it in the fingers, pulling away in the direction of the cut line of the hair. Layers of shorter hair above the grabbing level are blown out with a blow dryer. Each layer of hair is fixed with a clamp.
- Then, the hair coloring process is performed as follows.
- In each section, it is supposed to color the subsections of hair by using a darker tone at the roots and making a transition to a light tone (blond) at the ends of the subsections of hair. The coloring scheme shown in
FIG. 7 is used, which indicates the color tone numbers in each layer of hair. More specifically, in the base triangle 22 (denoting the layer of long hair),color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots,color 8N (blonde) is indicated in the middle region, andcolor 10N (platinum blonde) is indicated in the remaining (end) region. As for the smaller triangle 21 (denoting the layer of short hair),color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots, andcolor 7N (light brown) is indicated at the ends corresponding to the middle region of thebase triangle 22. - The color formulas are applied to the obtained layers of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, whereafter the layers of hair are wrapped in foil. A time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored. To ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair, the color formulas in the form of a zigzag pattern.
- Then, the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to a post-coloring method.
- As a result of coloring, a uniform transition of tones from roots to ends is obtained, i.e., an even blond.
-
FIGS. 10A-10E show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into triangular sections in accordance with a third exemplary embodiment. This scheme makes it possible to obtain lighter subsections of hair around the face and along the contour of hair growth, while leaving the top darker. This allows the hairdresser to get the smoothest color stretching. This scheme is suitable for both haircuts of one length, and for hair cut in a cascade. - The hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. The coloring scheme is visually presented as described above.
- To facilitate access to the layers of hair and the possibility of obtaining the desired result on the colored hair, the FPZ are divided by parting lines, obtaining a central triangular section, as well as peripheral sections relative to the central triangular section according to the anatomical points of the head. To do this, the following operations are performed:
-
- through the highest point of the crown (HPC), the central
radial parting 10 and the centralvertical parting 11 are drawn; - through the lower points of the temple (LPT) and the lower point of the crown (LPC), the
horizontal parting 12 is drawn (seeFIG. 10B ); - two parallel parting lines are drawn from the upper points of the temple (UPT) to the projection points (PP) on the
horizontal parting 12 and then to the hairline on the lower occipital area; - from the center point (CP), lines are drawn to the intersection with the PP on the
radial parting 10 with the continuation to the intersection with thehorizontal parting 12, thereby obtaining a centraltriangular section 26; - a crescent-shaped
parting 23 is provided from the upper points of the temple through the highest point of the crown (HPC); -
lateral sectors central sector 26 of the triangular section of the parietal zone are obtained (seeFIG. 10C ); - the extended lines of the sides of the triangle, the central
vertical parting 11 and thehorizontal parting 12form sections - the sections between the lines of the crescent-shaped
parting 23, which border thelateral sectors horizontal parting 12 and the lines of the sides of the triangle formperipheral sections
- through the highest point of the crown (HPC), the central
- The lower occipital zone, located under the
horizontal parting 12, has a small surface. In addition, swirls are often observed in this zone, which change the natural growth of hair, thereby causing difficulties in working in it. The implementation of the coloring method according to the present disclosure involves diagonal sections that allow the hairdresser to create stepless transitions of the colored layers of hair. To do this, the hairdresser draws a diagonal line 31 (seeFIGS. 10D and 10E ) from one of the projection points (PP) on thehorizontal parting 12 to the projection point (PP) on the hairline in the lower occipital zone, thereby obtaining peripheral loweroccipital sections -
- in the lower
occipital section 32, the direction of the subsections of hair is parallel to the diagonal line separating the occipital sections; - in the lower
occipital section 33, the direction of the subsections of hair is perpendicular to the diagonal line separating the occipital sections; - in the temporal-
occipital sections horizontal parting 12; - in the
sections horizontal parting 12; - in the
lateral sectors parting 23; - in the central
triangular section 26, the direction of the subsections of hair is parallel to theradial parting 10, because the direction of the hair in this zone splits back and forth.
- in the lower
- The subsection of hair is held by one hand in accordance with the grabbing level selected according to the coloring scheme. With the other hand, the hairdresser holds the blow dryer and direct the air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair, while pulled away it in the direction of the cut line of the hair, thereby gradually blowing out short, medium-length, long and longer hair from it. As a result, the required number of blown-out layers of hair is obtained. By making the grabbing level higher, the next layer of hair is blown out. From each subsection of hair, a certain number of layers of hair is obtained, preferably from 1 to 3 layers. Each obtained layer of hair is fixed and wrapped in foil. Then, the hairdresser proceeds to the hair coloring process.
- Coloring formulas are applied to the obtained layer of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, the layer of hair is wrapped in foil. All layers of hair of each subsection of hair in each section are treated in this manner.
- To ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair, the color formulas are applied to the subsections of hair in the form of a horizontal zigzag pattern.
- A time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored.
- The color formulas are rinsed off the hair.
- The colored subsections of hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
- The hair is treated according to a post-coloring procedure.
- The hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. In this case, it is required to obtain more light subsections of hair around the face and along the contour of hair growth, leaving the top darker. The coloring scheme is visually presented as described above.
- This case concerns primary coloring for the hair cut in cascade. The hairdresser selects the scheme for separating the hair into the triangular sections according to the anatomical points of the head (see
FIGS. 10A-10D ). The hair separation into the triangular sections is performed as described above. - Subsections of hair are isolated in each section, and each subsection of hair is fixed with a clamp. The activity of the hair growth phases allows the hairdresser to select two layers of hair with two grabbing levels.
- The hairdresser grabs the subsection of hair and pull it away in the direction of the cut line of the hair. Layers of shorter hair above the grabbing level are blown out of the subsection of hair with a blow dryer.
- Then, the hairdresser proceeds to the hair coloring process.
- In sections near the face and along the contour of hair growth, a layer of long hair is colored with
tone 10N (platinum blond), and a layer of short hair is colored withtone 9N (bright blond). - In the rest sections, the coloring process is performed according to the coloring scheme used in Example 1 (see also
FIG. 7 ). More specifically, in the base triangle 22 (denoting the layer of long hair),color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots,color 8N (blonde) is indicated in the middle region, andcolor 10N (platinum blonde) is indicated in the remaining (end) region. As for the smaller triangle 21 (denoting the layer of short hair),color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots, andcolor 7N (light brown) is indicated at the ends corresponding to the middle region of thebase triangle 22. - The coloring formulas are applied to the obtained layers of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, whereafter the layers of hair are wrapped in foil. A time period is maintained, which is sufficient for the hair to be colored. To smooth out rough transitions of tones between the colored subsections of hair, the color formulas may be applied to the subsections of hair in the form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern. Then, the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to a post-coloring procedure.
- As a result of coloring, more light strands are obtained around the face and along the contour of hair, and the top is left darker, with a smooth transition of tones, since the layers of hair with darker tones are added to the layers of lightened hair, thereby resulting in an interesting new effect.
-
FIGS. 11A-11E show a scheme for separating hair on a human head into horseshoe-shaped sections in accordance with a fourth exemplary embodiment. This scheme makes it possible to set different patterns on the hair. Changing the grabbing level in each subsection of hair, it is possible to achieve noticeable visible highlights and more distinctly colored subsections of hair. It is suitable both for hair of the same length and for hair cut in a cascade style (a bob haircut). - The hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair.
- To facilitate access to the layers of hair and the possibility of obtaining the desired result on the colored hair, the FPZ is separated by parting lines such that a central horseshoe-shaped section and peripheral sections relative to the central horseshoe-shaped section are formed according to the anatomical points of the head. To do this, the following operations are performed:
-
- through the highest point of the crown (HPC), the central
radial parting 10 and the centralvertical parting 11 are drawn (seeFIG. 11B ); - through the lower points of the temple (LPT) and the point of occipitalis (0), the
horizontal parting 12 is drawn; - two parallel parting lines are drawn from the upper points of the temple (UPT) to the projection points (PP) on the
horizontal parting 12 and then to the hairline on the lower occipital area; - two lines parallel to the
radial parting 10 are drawn at an equal distance from the central point (CP) through thecentral parting 11 to the intersection with the parallel parting lines starting from the upper points of the temple (UPT), thereby obtaining two rectangular sections—parietal 34 and parietal-occipital 35; - a line is drawn from the center point (CP) to the intersection point with the boundary line of the parietal section, thereby obtaining a
triangular section 36; - a crescent-shaped parting 37 is drawn from the intersection points (PP) of the parallel parting lines with the border line of the parieto-
occipital section 35 through the midpoint of the crown, thereby obtaining an upper occipital section 38 (seeFIG. 11C ); - the
parietal section 34, the parietal-occipital section 35, and the rounded upper-occipital section 38 form the central horseshoe-shaped section.
- through the highest point of the crown (HPC), the central
- The middle occipital zone, located under the crescent-shaped parting 37 and above the
horizontal parting 12, has a complex relief, repeating the base of the skull, hair growth in the middle down to the neck, right and left in the direction of the auricles, which causes difficulties to work in it. The implementation of the coloring method according to the present disclosure involves diagonal partings, which allows the hairdresser to create stepless transitions of the colored layers of hair. Adiagonal line 39 is drawn from one of the projection points (PP) on the crescent-shaped parting 37 to the projection point (PP) on thehorizontal parting 12; thus, two peripheral parietal-upperoccipital sections FIGS. 11D and 11E ). - The lower occipital zone, located under the
horizontal parting 12, has a small surface. In addition, swirls are often observed in this zone, which change the natural growth of hair, thereby causing difficulties in working in it. The implementation of the coloring method according to the present disclosure involves diagonal partings, which allows the hairdresser to create stepless transitions of the colored layers of hair. To do this, adiagonal line 42 is drawn from one of the projection points (PP) on thehorizontal parting 12 to the projection point (PP) on the hairline on the lower occipital area, thereby obtaining two peripheral loweroccipital sections FIGS. 11D and 11E ). The subsections of hair from these sections are isolated from each other according to their direction, namely: -
- in the lower
occipital section 43, the direction of the subsections of hair is parallel to thediagonal line 42 separating the occipital sections; - in the lower
occipital section 44, the direction of the subsections of hair is almost perpendicular to the diagonal line separating the occipital sections; - in the temporal-
occipital sections horizontal parting 12; - in
section 36 of the parietal zone, the direction of the subsections of hair is parallel to the diagonal line separating the parietal sections; - in the
parietal section 34, the direction of the subsections of hair is perpendicular to the diagonal line separating the parietal sections; - in the parietal-
occipital section 35, the direction of the subsections of hair is perpendicular to the direction of the subsections of hair in theadjacent parietal section 34; - in the upper
occipital section 38, the direction of the subsections of hair is perpendicular to the direction of the subsections of hair in the parietal-occipital section 35.
- in the lower
- The subsection of hair is held by the hairdresser in one hand in accordance with the grabbing level selected according to the coloring scheme. With the other hand, the hairdresser holds a blow dryer and directs the air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair, while pulling it away in the direction of the cut line of the hair, thereby gradually blowing short, medium-length, long and longer hair out of the subsection of hair. As a result, the required number of blown-out layers of hair is obtained. Making the grabbing level higher, it is possible to blow the next layer of hair. From each subsection of hair, a certain number of layers of hair is obtained, preferably from 1 to 3 layers.
- Then, the hairdresser proceeds to the hair coloring process.
- Coloring formulas are applied to the obtained layers of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, whereafter at least one of the layers of hair is wrapped in foil. All layers of hair of each subsection of hair in each section are treated in this manner.
- To ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair, the color formulas are applied to them in the form of a zigzag pattern.
- A time period is maintained, is sufficient for the hair to be colored.
- The color formulas are rinsed off the hair.
- Optionally, the colored subsections of hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
- The hair is treated according to a post-coloring procedure.
- The hairdresser studies the condition of hair to be colored, determines a required number of layers of hair and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain a desired result on the hair. This case concerns primary coloring for hair of the same length, like in a bob haircut.
- The hairdresser selects the scheme for separating the hair into the horseshoe-shaped sections according to the anatomical points of the head (see
FIGS. 11A-11E ). The hair separation into the horseshoe-shaped section is performed as described above. - Subsections of hair are isolated in each section, and each subsection of hair is fixed with a clamp. The activity of the hair growth phases allows the hairdresser to select two layers with two grabbing levels.
- The hairdresser grabs each subsection of hair and pulls it away in the direction of the cut line of the hair. Layers of shorter hair above the grabbing level are blown out of the subsection of hair with a blow dryer.
- The hairdresser then proceeds to the hair coloring process.
- In each subsection of hair, it is supposed to color the hair with a darker tone at their roots and make a transition to a light tone (blond) at the ends of the subsection of hair. A coloring scheme like the one shown in
FIG. 7 may be used in this case, but with three triangles (corresponding to three layers of long, medium-length and short hair) and other tone numbers. More specifically, in a base triangle (denoting the layer of long hair),color 6N (medium blond) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots,color 8N (blonde) is indicated in the middle region, andcolor 10N (platinum blonde) is indicated at the ends of the subsection of hair. In a smaller triangle (denoting the layer of medium-length hair),color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots, whilecolor 7N+8N (light brown+blonde) is indicated at the ends corresponding to the middle region of the base triangle. In the smallest triangle (denoting the layer of short hair),color 6N (medium brown) is indicated in the region closest to the hair roots, whilecolor 7N (light brown) is indicated at the ends corresponding to the middle region of the base triangle. - The coloring formulas are applied to the obtained layers of hair in accordance with the coloring scheme, whereafter each colored layer of hair is wrapped in foil. All required layers of hair of each subsection of hair in each section are treated in this manner.
- The subsections of hair are colored, retreating a few centimeters from the hair roots each time.
- To ensure a smooth transition from one color to another between the subsections of hair, the color formulas may be applied to them in the form of a horizontal pattern.
- The hairdresser waits enough time for the hair to be colored.
- The color formulas are rinsed off the hair.
- The colored subsections of hair are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
- The hair is treated according to a post-coloring procedure.
Claims (5)
1. A hair coloring method comprising the following steps performed by a hairdresser:
separating hair on a head of a person into sections by parting the hair based on anatomical points of the head;
in each of the sections of the hair, isolating subsections of hair based on a direction of hair growth in the section, each of the subsections of hair comprising a layer of long hair and a layer of short hair;
for each of the subsections of hair:
grabbing the subsection of hair with one hand close to an end of the layer of long hair;
holding a blow dryer in another hand and directing an air flow from the blow dryer through the subsection of hair, while pulling away the subsection of hair in a direction of a cut line of the hair, thereby gradually blowing the layer of short hair out of the subsection of hair;
fixing each of the layer of long hair and the layer of short hair with a clamp;
sequentially removing the clamps and coloring the layer of long hair and/or the layer of short hair by using a color formula;
wrapping the colored layer of long hair and/or the colored layer of short hair in a foil; and
upon expiry of a time period prescribed for the color formula, removing the foil from the colored layer of long hair and/or the colored layer of short hair;
rinsing the color formula off the hair, and
treating the hair according to a post-coloring recipe.
2. The method according to claim 1 , wherein said coloring by using the color formula comprises applying at least two different colors to the layer of long hair and/or the layer of short hair.
3. The method according to claim 2 , wherein said coloring by using the color formula comprises applying the color formula to the subsections of hair in a form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern.
4. The method according to claim 1 , further comprising, after said rinsing the color formula off the hair but before said treating the hair according to the post-coloring recipe, tinting each of the subsections of hair.
5. The method according to claim 1 , wherein said coloring by using the color formula is performed in accordance with a graphic coloring scheme which shows the layer of long hair in the subsection of hair as a first triangle and the layer of short hair in the subsection of hair as a second triangle, the first triangle having a base representing a root hairline and an apex representing an end of the subsection of hair, and wherein the second triangle is smaller than the first triangle and is shown in the graphic coloring scheme as extending beyond the first triangle, and wherein the graphic coloring scheme further shows a border of a root zone, boundaries of coloring areas, and the color formula to be applied in each of the first triangle and the second triangle.
Priority Applications (1)
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US18/198,376 US20230284762A1 (en) | 2018-12-28 | 2023-05-17 | Hair coloring method |
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
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US16/668,358 US20200205542A1 (en) | 2018-12-28 | 2019-10-30 | Method of dyeing hair (variants) |
US18/198,376 US20230284762A1 (en) | 2018-12-28 | 2023-05-17 | Hair coloring method |
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