Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
  • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
  • A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/67—Vitamins
  • A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8129—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by an alcohol, ether, aldehydo, ketonic, acetal or ketal radical; Compositions of hydrolysed polymers or esters of unsaturated alcohols with saturated carboxylic acids; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. polyvinylmethylether
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
  • C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
  • C07C219/00—Compounds containing amino and esterified hydroxy groups bound to the same carbon skeleton
  • C07C219/02—Compounds containing amino and esterified hydroxy groups bound to the same carbon skeleton having esterified hydroxy groups and amino groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms of the same carbon skeleton
  • C07C219/04—Compounds containing amino and esterified hydroxy groups bound to the same carbon skeleton having esterified hydroxy groups and amino groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms of the same carbon skeleton the carbon skeleton being acyclic and saturated
  • C07C219/06—Compounds containing amino and esterified hydroxy groups bound to the same carbon skeleton having esterified hydroxy groups and amino groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms of the same carbon skeleton the carbon skeleton being acyclic and saturated having the hydroxy groups esterified by carboxylic acids having the esterifying carboxyl groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms of an acyclic saturated carbon skeleton

Definitions

• a shampoo composition comprising at least one oligoester ammonium salt
• the present invention relates to shampoo compositions comprising at least one oligoester ammonium salt, methods of preparing the shampoo compositions, their use as well as methods of treating the hair.
• Natural oils have been used for centuries to condition human hair.
• Essential oils e.g. tea tree oil
• carrier oils e.g. jojoba oil
• Human hair contains about 97% of the protein keratin, which needs to be protected to preserve the strength and natural look.
• shampoos with hair conditioning properties can contain cationic components (e.g. surfactants) which are not washed out completely.
• cationic components e.g. surfactants
• the hydrophilic ends of the cationic components can bind to the keratin, whereas the hydrophobic ends of the molecules protect the hair surface.
• Modern hair conditioning shampoos compositions are often intended to soften the hair, to improve the gloss of hair and to avoid a greasy look of the hair.
• Silicone derivatives, and quaternary ammonium compounds (surfactants or polymers) which coat the cuticle of the hair were used as conditioning ingredients in shampoo compositions.
• Such shampoos can be made transparent or opaque.
• Hair shampoo compositions comprise generally one or more of the following types of ingredients (components):
• R 2 is C 11 -C 21 -alkyl
• R 3 is C 1 -C 4 -alkyl or hydroxyethyl
• n 1 to 7
• y is either 0 or 1
• [A ⁇ ] is halogen or methylsulfate.
• conditioning agent is proposed and the application of a micro-emulsion in hair conditioning is said to provide typical conditioning benefits, such as improved smoothness, softness and ease of combing wet hair.
• DE-C 19743687 discloses a detergent composition comprising ester ammonium salts of general formula (K),
• R 2 is C 1 -C 4 -alkyl
• R 3 is selected from C 1 -C 4 -alkyl or hydroxy-(C 1 -C 4 -alkyl);
• n 1 to 10;
• n1, n2, n3, n4 are from 0 to 4.
• composition in hair conditioning results in electrostatic charge reduction, ease of combing wet and dry hair, and improved softness. All of these effects are all typical for conditioning agents.
• Shine, gloss and surface smoothening are all desirable attributes in cosmetic compositions and preparations for personal care. For example, shine and gloss are highly desired attributes in nail color and hair care preparations. Surface smoothening is important in shampoos, hair conditioners and other hair treatment preparations and can provide superior (easier) wet and dry hair combing. However, such attributes can often only be attained by combining several different ingredients in the cosmetic compositions. Thus, there is still a great need in personal care for new compositions and/or components that deliver multiple effects at the same time, such as several of the aforementioned attributes and benefits. In particular there is a great need for providing such compositions and/or components that provide excellent performance as a shampoo and a wide variety of cosmetic benefits simultaneously.
• compositions comprising an ingredient that delivers at the same time multiple effects.
• the composition and its components can be prepared easily and provide or enhance several of the following benefits: hair detangling, improved wet and dry combing, shine (gloss) such as hair gloss without the need for silicone, conditioning, (hair) surface smoothening, hair repair, water resistance, film-forming properties, static charge reduction, anti-frizz, volume, thickening and surfactant activity.
• a shampoo composition comprising at least one oligoester ammonium salt (OAS) and at least one further cosmetically acceptable component (F), whereby the at least one oligoester ammonium salt (OAS) is obtainable by the following steps:
• R 4 is hydrogen or linear or branched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl or hydroxyl-C 1 -C 4 -alkyl, preferably hydrogen, methyl or ethyl, more preferably hydrogen;
• R 1 is linear or branched C 12 -C 24 -alkyl or linear or branched C 12 -C 24 -alkenyl, preferably linear or branched C 12 -C 22 -alkyl or linear or branched C 12 -C 22 -alkenyl, more preferably C 20 -C 22 -alkyl;
• the OAS (and the cosmetic composition) is preferably prepared wherein the di-ethanolamine component (a) wherein R 3 is methyl.
• the OAS (and shampoo composition) is preferably prepared wherein the dicarboxylic acid (b) is selected from the group consisting of adipic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, sebacid acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, and combinations thereof.
• the dicarboxylic acid (b) is selected from the group consisting of adipic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, sebacid acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, and combinations thereof.
• the OAS (and shampoo composition) is preferably prepared wherein the organic triol (c) is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, triethanolamine, and combinations thereof.
• the OAS (and shampoo composition) is preferably prepared by choosing the carboxylic acid (d) selected from the group consisting of behenic acid, oleic acid, coconut fatty acid, linoleic acid, and combinations thereof.
• the OAS (and shampoo composition) is preferably prepared by choosing the components (a), (b), (c) and (d) in the following molar ratios: from 0.5-3.0 (a), from 0.5-1.5 (b), from 0.5-1.5 (c) and 1 (d).
• the component (a) can also preferably be used in a molar ratio of 0.75-3.0.
• the OAS (and shampoo composition) is preferably prepared by choosing the molar ratio of the components (a), (b), (c) and (d) such that the molar equivalents of hydroxyl functions are in excess of the molar equivalents of the acid functions.
• the OAS (and shampoo composition) is preferably prepared by choosing a process, whereby first heating the mixture of components (a), (b), (c) and (d) in step (i) to a temperature from 80 to 220° C., preferably from 150 to 210° C., more preferably from 160 to 200° C. is used, and in step (ii) subsequent reaction of the obtained oligoester product occurs with a quaternization agent (e), preferably selected from the group consisting of dimethyl sulfate, diethyl sulfate, methylchloride, ethylchloride, butylchloride, and combinations thereof.
• a quaternization agent e
• the shampoo composition is preferably prepared wherein the oligoester ammonium salt (OAS) having a molecular mass Mn (number average) of from 500 to 4000 g/mol, preferably from 600 to 4000 g/mol, more preferably from 650 to 2000 g/mol, even more preferably from 665 to 1800 g/mol.
• OAS oligoester ammonium salt
• the components (a) to (c) are: methyl diethanol amine (component (a)), behenic acid (component (d)), adipic acid or sebacic acid (component (b)), and glycerol (component (c)), respectively.
• the invention also relates to a shampoo composition
• a shampoo composition comprising at least one oligoester ammonium salt (OAS) of formula (I) and at least one further cosmetically acceptable component (F),
• OAS oligoester ammonium salt
• F further cosmetically acceptable component
• A is, at least once, independently selected from means that the compound conforming to formula (I) must contain, at position A, a compound conforming to the requirements thereafter described. Indeed, since n is an integer from 1 to 30, not all of the repeating units described in the square brackets for n need be exactly the same chemically. Hence, where n is 3, then A described in the square brackets for n could be three different chemical groups or the same chemical group.
• the phrase “A is, at least once, independently selected from” means that the compound conforming to formula (I) must contain, at position A, at least once a compound conforming to the requirements thereafter described—where n is 3, then A could be said compound for all repeating units, or only for one occurrence of A—the minimum is a least once.
• the group A conforms to (C 1 -C 4 -alkylene)—CR 5 R 6 —(C 1 -C 4 -alkylene), wherein R 5 and R 6 are each independently selected from the group consisting of H, OH, C 1 -C 2 -alkyl, and hydroxy-methyl.
• the shampoo composition relates to wherein in formula (I) the compounds conforming to (C 1 -C 6 -alkylene)—CR 5 R 6 —(C 1 -C 6 -alkylene) are selected from the group consisting of:
• the group A is, at least once, independently selected from compounds conforming to:
• the counter ion of the formula [(X p ⁇ ) 1/p ] is selected from the group consisting of Cl ⁇ (chloride), Br ⁇ (bromide), MeSO 4 ⁇ (methyl sulfate), EtSO 4 ⁇ (ethyl sulfate), HCO 2 ⁇ (formate), citrate, acetate, nitrate, [(CO 3 2 ⁇ ) 0.5 ] (carbonate), [(SC 4 2 ⁇ ) 0.5 ] (sulfate), [(PO 4 3 ⁇ ) 1/3 ] (phosphate), and combinations thereof.
• a third aspect relates to the use of an oligoester ammonium salt (OAS) obtained by a process as defined above, or of an oligoester ammonium salt (OAS) of formula (I) as a surfactant in cosmetic compositions, preferably in shampoo compositions.
• OAS oligoester ammonium salt
• a fourth aspect relates to a method of preparing a shampoo composition
• a method of preparing a shampoo composition comprising the steps of preparing one or more oligoester ammonium salts (OAS) as described above, and mixing the OAS with one or more further components (F) and water.
• OAS oligoester ammonium salts
• a fifth aspect relates to a method of treating hair, comprising:
• At least one embodiment of the fifth aspect relates to a method of treating hair, comprising:
• C 1 -C 24 -alkyl includes all kind of acyclic and cyclic alkyl groups with 1 to 24 carbon atoms.
• the compounds conforming to C 1 -C 24 -alkyl are selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, 1-methylbutyl, 2-methylbutyl, 3-methylbutyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl, 1,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-ethylpropyl, n-hexyl, 1-methylpentyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1,1,-dimethylbutyl, 1,2-dimethylbutyl, 1,3-dimethylbuty
• C 2 -C 24 -alkenyl includes all kind of acyclic and cyclic hydrocarbon groups with 2 to 24 carbon atoms and one or more C—C double bonds.
• the compounds conforming to C 2 -C 24 -alkenyl are selected from the group consisting of vinyl, prop-1-enyl, prop-2-enyl, methallyl, 1-methylallyl, homoallyl, but-2-enyl, pent-1-enyl, pent-2-enyl, pent-3-enyl, 1-methylbut-1-enyl, 2-methylbut-1-enyl, 3-methylbut-1-enyl, 1-methylbut-2-enyl, 2-methylbut-2-enyl, 3-methylbut-2-enyl, 1-methyl-but-3-enyl, 2-methylbut-3-enyl, 3-methylbut-3-enyl, 1-ethylprop-1-enyl, 1-ethyl-prop-2-enyl
• C 1 -C 10 -alkylene includes all kind of acyclic, saturated hydrocarbon units having the formula C m H 2m , all kind of monocyclic, saturated hydrocarbon units having the formula C m H 2m-2 and all kind of bicyclic, saturated hydrocarbon units having the formula C m H 2m-4 , wherein m in said formulae is an integer selected from 1 to 10, where possible.
• the compounds conforming to C 1 -C 10 -alkylene are selected from the group consisting of: methylene, ethylene, n-propylene, 1-methylethylene, 2-methylethylene, butylene, 1-methylpropylene, butylene, 2-methyl-propylene, 3-methylproylene, 1,1-dimethylethylene, 1,2-dimethylethylene, pentylene, 1-methylbutylene, 2-methylbutylene, 3-methylbutylene, 1,1-dimethylpropylene, 2,2-dimethyl-propylene, 1,2-dimethylpropylene, 1-ethylpropylene, hexylene, 1-methylpentylene, 2-methylpentylene, 3-methylpentylene, 4-methylpentylene, 1,1,-dimethylbutylene, 1,2-dimethylbutylene, 1,3-dimethylbutylene, 2,2-dimethylbutylene, 2,3-dimethylbutylene, 3,3-dimethylbutylene, 1-ethylbutylene, 1-eth
• C 2 -C 10 -alkenylene includes all kind of acyclic, mono-unsaturated hydrocarbon units having the formula C m H 2m-2 , all kind of acyclic di- and poly-unsaturated hydrocarbon units having the formulae C m H 2m-4 , C m H 2m-6 etc., as well as cyclic, mono- and di-unsaturated hydrocarbon units having the formulae C m H 2m-4 , C m H 2m-6 etc., wherein m in said formulae is an integer selected from 2 to 10, where possible.
• the compounds conforming to C 2 -C 10 -alkenylene are selected from the group consisting of: ethenylene, prop-1-enylene, prop-2-enylene, but-1-enylene, but-2-enylene, but-3-enylene, pent-1-enylene, pent-2-enylene, pent-3-enylene, pent-4-enylene, pent-5-enylene, 1-methylbut-1-enylene, 1-methylbut-2-enylene, 1-methylbut-3-enylene, hex-1-enylene, hex-2-enylene, hex-3-enylene, hept-1-enylene, hept-2-enylene, hept-3-enylene, oct-1-enylene, oct-2-enylene, oct-3-enylene, oct-4-enylene, non-1-enylene, non-2-enylene, non-3-enylene
• each R 1 in the oligoester ammonium salt of formula (I) is independently selected from compounds being linear or branched C 12 -C 24 -alkyl groups. More preferably, each R 1 is independently selected from compounds being linear or branched C 16 -C 22 -alkyl groups.
• R 1 is C 17 -alkyl, which can be, for example, the alkyl part of an isooctadecanoic acid, even more preferbaly the alkyl part of isostearic acid.
• R 1 is C 21 -alkyl, which can be the alkyl part of behenic acid.
• —R 2 — in the oligoester ammonium salt is independently selected from the compounds being linear —(C 2 -C 8 -alkylene)— groups. More preferably, the compounds being “linear —(C 2 -C 6 -alkylene)—” groups are selected from the group consisting of —CH 2 —CH 2 — (ethylene), —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 — (propylene), —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 — (butylene), —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 — (pentylene), —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 — (hexylene), and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred for —R 2 — is —CH 2 —CH 2 13 CH 2 —CH 2 —, or —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2
• R 3 is —(C 1 -C 4 -alkyl).
• R 4 is preferably selected from hydrogen, methyl or ethyl. More preferably, R 4 is methyl.
• n in general formula (I) defines the average number of repeating units of the oligoester ammonium salts.
• the number n is preferably an integer of from 1 to 30, more preferably from 1 to 10.
• the counter ion [(X p ⁇ ) 1/p ] of the (m) charged oligoester ammonium cation is preferably selected from the group consisting of: Cl ⁇ (chloride), Br ⁇ (bromide), MeSO 4 ⁇ (methyl-sulfate), EtSO 4 ⁇ (ethyl sulfate), HCO 2 ⁇ (formate), citrate, acetate, nitrate, [(CO 3 2 ⁇ ) 0.5 ] (carbonate), [(SO 4 2 ⁇ ) 0.5 ] (sulfate), [(PO 4 3 ⁇ ) 1/3] (phosphate), and combinations thereof.
• the shampoo composition comprises also one or more further cosmetically acceptable component (F), which can be present in an amount of at least 0.5% by weight, or from 0.5 to 20%, by total weight of the shampoo composition.
• the component (F) is selected from the group consisting of: cleansing ingredients, acidity regulators, colorants, further conditioning agents, emulsifiers, film formers, fragrances, glossers, humectants, lubricants, moisturizers, pigments, preservatives, hair penetration enhancers, scalp actives, stabilizers, further surfactants, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the component (F) is selected from the group consisting of surfactants, viscosity-modifying polymers and conditioning ingredients.
• the shampoo composition comprises from 1 to 20% by weight of one or more oligoester ammonium salts (OAS) and further comprises at least 0.5% by weight of one or more further components (F) selected from the group consisting of surfactants, polymers, conditioning agents, actives, acidity regulators, lubricants, moisturisers, oils, preservatives, sequestrants, strengtheners, sun protectors, and combinations thereof.
• OAS oligoester ammonium salts
• F further components selected from the group consisting of surfactants, polymers, conditioning agents, actives, acidity regulators, lubricants, moisturisers, oils, preservatives, sequestrants, strengtheners, sun protectors, and combinations thereof.
• the shampoo composition comprises further cosmetically acceptable component (F) being cleansing ingredients.
• the shampoo composition comprises from 0.05% to 20% cleansing ingredients.
• the level of cleansing ingredient is from 1% to 20% by total weight of the active ingredient in the composition, preferably 5% to 18%, more preferably 8% to 16%.
• the cleansing ingredient is selected from the group consisting of non-polymeric surfactants, saponins, polymeric surfactants, and combinations thereof.
• the cleansing ingredient comprises or consists of surfactants.
• the shampoo composition preferably comprises from 0.01 to 20% by weight of one or more OAS and at least 0.5% by weight of further surfactant(s), preferably cleansing anionic or nonionic surfactants, such as sodium laureth sulphate, sodium lauryl sulphate, ammonium laureth sulphate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, olefin sulfonates, olefin sulfates, laureth-3 or 4, cocamide DEA, glucosides, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, cocoamphodipropionate, sodium methyl 2-sulfolaurate and other laurates, sulfoacetates, sulfosuccinates, lactylates, sultaines, caprylates/caprates, isethionates, glutamates, taurates, sarcosinates, glucamides, and combinations thereof.
• further surfactant(s) preferably cleansing ani
• the composition comprises a surfactant system.
• the surfactant system comprises a surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants and/or amphoteric surfactants.
• the composition comprises a total amount of surfactant of from 0.01 wt % to 70 wt %, from 0.1 wt % to 40%, from 1 wt % to 30%, from 2 wt % to 20 wt %.
• the composition comprises an anionic surfactant.
• the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of (C 10 -C 20 )-alkyl and alkylene carboxylates, alkyl ether carboxylates, fatty alcohol sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, alkylamide sulfates and sulfonates, fatty acid alkylamide polyglycol ether sulfates, alkanesulfonates and hydroxyalkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, acyl esters of isethionates, ⁇ -sulfo fatty acid esters, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkylphenol glycol ether sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic monoesters and diesters, fatty alcohol ether phosphates, protein/fatty acid condensation products, alkyl monog
• the anionic surfactants can be used in the form of their water-soluble or water-dispersible salts, examples being the sodium, potassium, magnesium, ammonium, mono-, di-, and triethanolammonium, and analogous alkylammonium salts.
• the anionic surfactant is the salt of an anionic surfactant comprising 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
• the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium tridecyl sulfate, sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium myristyl sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
• Typical anionic surfactants for use in compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.
• the level of alkyl ether sulphate is from 0.5 wt. % to 25 wt. % of the total composition, more preferably from 3 wt. % to 18 wt. %, most preferably from 6 wt. % to 15 wt. % of the total composition.
• compositions of the invention may range from 0.5 wt. % to 45 wt. %, more preferably from 1.5 wt. % to 20 wt. %.
• Compositions of the invention may comprise fatty acyl isethionate, if present preferably at a level of from 1 to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 2 to 8 wt. %, most preferably from 2.5 to 7.5 wt. %.
• a preferred fatty acyl isethionate product comprises fatty acyl isethionate surfactant at a level of from 40 to 80 wt. % of the product, as well as free fatty acid and/or fatty acid salt at a level of from 15 to 50%.
• greater than 20 wt. % and less than 45 wt. %, more preferably greater than 25 wt. % and less than 45 wt. % of the fatty acyl isethionate are of chain length greater than or equal to Ci6; and greater than 50 wt. %, preferably greater than 60 wt. % of the free fatty acid/soap is of chain length Ci6 to C 20.
• the product may contain isethionates salts which are present typically at levels less than 5 wt. %, and traces (less than 2 wt. %) of other impurities.
• a mixture of aliphatic fatty acids is used for the preparation of commercial fatty acyl isethionates surfactants.
• the resulting fatty acyl isethionate surfactants e.g., resulting from reaction of alkali metal isethionate and aliphatic fatty acid
• These longer chain fatty acyl isethionate surfactants and fatty acids i.e. fatty acyl group and fatty acid with 16 or more carbons, can typically form insoluble surfactant/fatty acid crystals in water at ambient temperatures.
• the composition comprises an acylglycinate surfactant.
• the acylglycinate surfactant conforms to the formula (Y):
• R 1a is a linear or branched, saturated alkanoyl group having 6 to 30, preferably 8 to 22, particularly preferably 8 to 18, carbon atoms or is a linear or branched, mono- or polyunsaturated alkenoyl group having 6 to 30, preferably 8 to 22 and particularly preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and
• Q a + is selected from the group consisting of Li + , Na + , K + , Mg ++ , Ca ++ , Al +++ , NH 4 + , a monoalkylammmonium ion, a dialkylammonium ion, a trialkylammonium ion and a tetraalkylammonium ion, or combinations thereof.
• R 1a is independently from one another, are (C 1 -C 22 )-alkyl radicals or (C 2 -C 10 )-hydroxyalkyl radicals.
• the acylglycinate surfactant is selected from sodium cocoylglycinate and potassium cocoylglycinate.
• the acylglycinate surfactant is selected from those conforming to formula (Y), wherein R is C12 alkyl or C14 alkyl. In at least one embodiment, the acylglycinate surfactant is selected from those conforming to formula (Y), wherein R is C16 alkyl or C18 alkyl.
• the composition comprises from 0.01 wt % to 30 wt %, or 1 wt % to 25 wt %, preferably from 5 wt % to 20 wt %, more preferably from 12 wt % to 18 wt % anionic surfactant.
• the composition comprises a glutamate surfactant corresponding to formula (Z) or a salt thereof:
• R′ is HOOC—CH 2 —CH 2 — or M + ⁇ OOC—CH 2 —CH 2 ⁇ wherein M + is a cation; and wherein R is a linear or branched, saturated alkanoyl group having 6 to 30, preferably 8 to 22, more preferably 8 to 18, carbon atoms or is a linear or branched, mono- or polyunsaturated alkenoyl group having 6 to 30, preferably 8 to 22 and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
• M + is a metal cation.
• M + is selected from the group consisting of Li + , Na + , K + , Mg ++ , Ca ++ , Al +++ , NH 4 + , a monoalkylammmonium ion, a dialkylammonium ion, a trialkylammonium ion and a tetraalkylammonium ion, or combinations thereof.
• the glutamate surfactant is selected from sodium cocoyl glutamate and potassium cocoyl glutamate.
• the glutamate surfactant is selected from those conforming to formula (Z), wherein R is C12 alkyl or C14 alkyl.
• the glutamate surfactant is selected from those conforming to formula (Z), wherein R is C16 alkyl or C18 alkyl.
• the composition comprises a non-ionic surfactant.
• the non-ionic surfactants may bepresent in the range 0 to 5 wt. %.
• Nonionic surfactants that can be included in compositions of the invention include condensation products of aliphatic primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.
• Alkyl ethoxylates are particularly preferred. Most preferred are alky ethoxylates having the formula R—(OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OH, where R is an alkyl chain of C12 to C15, and n is 5 to 9.
• Other suitable nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide.
• APG alkyl polyglycosides
• APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups.
• Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:
• R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.
• R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C5 to about C20.
• R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C9 to about C12.
• G may be selected from C5 or C6 monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside.
• G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof.
• G is glucose.
• the degree of polymerisation, n may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more. Most preferably the value of n lies from about 1.3 to about 1.5.
• Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.
• sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in compositions of the invention include the fatty (e.g. C10-C18) N-alkyl (C1-C6) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C12-C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in WO9206154 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,194,639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides.
• the non-ionic surfactant has an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) of greater than 12.
• the non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of ethoxylated or ethoxylated/propoxylated fatty alcohols with a fatty chain comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, ethoxylated sterols, such as stearyl- or lauryl alcohol (EO-7), PEG-16 soya sterol or PEG-10 soya sterol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene block polymers (poloxamers), and mixtures thereof.
• HLB Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
• the non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of ethoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid glycerides or alkylphenols, in particular addition products of from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 1 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto C8- to C22-fatty alcohols, onto C12- to C22-fatty acids or onto alkyl phenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, C12- to C22-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto glycerol, addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil or onto hydrogenated castor oil, fatty acid sugar esters, in particular esters of sucrose and one or two C8- to C22-fatty acids, INCI: Sucrose Cocoate, Sucrose Dilaurate, Sucrose Distearate, Sucrose Laurate, Sucrose Myristate, Su
• the non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohol ethoxylates (alkylpolyethylene glycols), alkylphenol polyethylene glycols, alkylmercaptan polyethylene glycols, fatty amine ethoxylates (alkylaminopolyethylene glycols), fatty acid ethoxylates (acylpolyethylene glycols), polypropylene glycol ethoxylates)(Pluronics®), fatty acid alkylol amides, (fatty acid amide polyethylene glycols), N-alkyl-, N-alkoxypolyhydroxy-fatty acid amide, sucrose esters, sorbitol esters, polyglycol ethers, and mixtures thereof.
• fatty alcohol ethoxylates alkylpolyethylene glycols
• alkylphenol polyethylene glycols alkylmercaptan polyethylene glycols
• fatty amine ethoxylates alkylaminopoly
• the composition comprises a fatty N-methyl-N-glucamide surfactant.
• the fatty N-methyl-N-glucamide surfactant conforms to the formula (X):
• R is a a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
• R is an alkyl group having from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
• R is a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group which can be linear or branched and can have from 3 to 20 carbon atoms in the hydrocarbon chain, preferably linear or branched. Branched means that a lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or propyl is present as substituent on a linear alkyl chain.
• R is selected from the group consisting of 1-propyl, 2-propyl, 1-butyl, 2-butyl, 2-methyl-1-propyl (isobutyl), 2-methyl-2-propyl (tert-butyl), 1-pentyl, 2-pentyl, 3-pentyl, 2-methyl-1-butyl, 3-methyl-1-butyl, 2-methyl-2-butyl, 3-methyl-2-butyl, 2,2-dimethyl-1-propyl, 1-hexyl, 2-hexyl, 3-hexyl, 2-methyl-1-pentyl, 3-methyl-1-pentyl, 4-methyl-1-pentyl, 2-methyl-2-pentyl, 3-methyl-2-pentyl, 4-methyl-2-pentyl, 2-methyl-3-pentyl, 3-methyl-3-pentyl, 2,2-dimethyl-1-butyl, 2,3-dimethyl-1-butyl, 3,3-dimethyl-1-butyl, 2-ethyl
• Suitable fatty N-methyl-N-glucamide surfactants are described in WO2013/178700 and EP 0 550 637, which are incorporated herein by reference.
• the N-methyl-N-glucamide surfactant is selected from those conforming to formula (X), wherein R is C12 alkyl or C14 alkyl.
• the N-methyl-N-glucamide surfactant is selected from those conforming to formula (X), wherein R is C16 alkyl or C18 alkyl.
• the composition comprises from 1 wt % to 20 wt %, more preferably from 2 wt % to 10 wt %, even more preferably from 3 wt % to 7 wt % 0 non-ionic surfactant.
• Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant can be included in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. % to about 8 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. % to 4 wt. of the total composition.
• the amphoteric surfactants are selected from the group consisting of N—(C 12 —C 18 )-alkyl- ⁇ -aminopropionates and N—(C 12 —C 18 )-alkyl- ⁇ -iminodipropionates as alkali metal salts and mono-, di-, and trialkylammonium salts; N-acylaminoalkyl-N,N-dimethylacetobetaine, preferably N-(C 8 -C 18 )-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylacetobetaine, (C 12 —C 18 )-alkyl-dimethyl-sulfopropylbetaine, amphosurfactants based on imidazoline (trade name: Miranol®, Steinapoe), preferably the sodium salt of 1-( ⁇ -carboxymethyloxyethyl)-1-(carboxymethyl)-2-laurylimidazolinium; amine oxide, e.
• the composition comprises a betaine surfactant.
• the betaine surfactant is selected from C8- to C18-alkylbetaines.
• the betaine surfactant is selected from the group consisting of cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgammacarboxypropylbetaine and laurylbis(2-hydroxypropyl) alphacarboxyethylbetaine and combinations thereof.
• the betaine surfactant is selected from C8- to C18-sulfobetaines.
• the betaine surfactant is selected from the group consisting of cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethyl-sulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine, and combinations thereof.
• the betaine surfactant is selected from carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, the C8- to C18-alkyldimethylammonium acetates, the C8- to C18-alkyldimethylcarbonylmethylammonium salts, and the C8- to C18-fatty acid alkylamidobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
• the C8- to C18-fatty acid alkylamidobetaine is selected from coconut fatty acid amidopropylbetaine, N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-[2-(carboxymethoxy)ethyl]glycerol (CTFA name: Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate), and mixtures thereof.
• a particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine. Mixtures of any of the foregoing amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may also be suitable. Preferred mixtures are those of cocamidopropyl betaine with further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as described above. A preferred further amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate.
• the composition comprises from 0.5 wt % to 20 wt %, preferably from 1 wt % to 10 wt % amphoteric surfactant.
• the composition comprises a surfactant system.
• the surfactant system comprises at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of lauryl sulfate, laureth sulfate, cocoamido-propylbetaine, sodium cocoylglutamate, lauroamphoacetate, and mixtures thereof.
• the surfactant system comprises sodium laureth sulphate, sodium lauryl sulphate, and optionally cocamidopropyl betaine.
• the surfactant system comprises sodium laureth sulphate, Potassium Cocyl Glutamate, and cocamidopropyl betaine.
• Suitable lubricants are, for example, fatty alcohol components having 6 to 18 carbon atoms.
• the further surfactants may, for example, be chosen from non-polymeric, cationic quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular cetrimonium chloride (CTAC).
• Suitable classical cationic conditioning agents include cationic quaternary ammonium salts.
• quaternary ammonium salts include benzyl triethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethylammonium chloride (cetrimonium chloride, CTAC), behentrimonium chloride (BTAC) and cetylpyridinium chloride.
• cationic components a variety of further cationic polymers are suitable, including quaternized cellulose ethers, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic polymers, including homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide. Also suitable are various types of homo-or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid, acrylamide, methylacrylamide, diacetone-acrylamide.
• Typical glossers are silicones. Suitable as silicones are volatile or nonvolatile nonionic silicone fluids, silicone resins, and silicone semisolids or solids. Volatile silicones are linear or cyclic silicones having a measureable vapor pressure, which is defined as a vapor pressure of at least 2 mm of mercury at 20° C. Also suitable are water insoluble nonvolatile silicone fluids including polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, amine-functional silicones, and mixtures thereof.
• the compositions of the present invention contains as a further component a silicone compound.
• the composition can comprise up to 5% (e.g. 0.1 to 5%) by weight of a silicone compound.
• Suitable silicone compounds include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes.
• the preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane, e.g. available from Wacker (Germany) or Dow Corning, such as Xiameter PMX DC 200. Silicone compounds can be available as silicone oils or emulsions.
• the silicone compounds may further be incorporated in the present composition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is pre-made and added to the formulation, or made during the formulation process by mechanical mixing with or without the aid of an additional surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
• compositions of the invention contain silicone conditioning agents preferably these are emulsified droplets of a silicone conditioning agent, for enhancing conditioning performance.
• Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use compositions of the invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol. Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96/31 188. The viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is typically at least 10,000 cSt at 25° C.
• the viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 cSt, most preferably at least 500,000 cSt, ideally at least 1,000,000 cSt. Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 109 cSt for ease of formulation.
• Emulsified silicones for use in the shampoo compositions of the invention will typically have an average silicone droplet size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 micron, ideally from 0.01 to 1 micron. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone droplet size of less than 0.15 micron are generally termed microemulsions.
• Silicone particle size may be measured by means of a laser light scattering technique, for example using a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.
• suitable pre-formed emulsions include Xiameter MEM 1785 and microemulsion DC 2 -1865 available from Dow Corning. These are emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol.
• Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation.
• a further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in shampoos and conditioners of the invention are amino functional silicones.
• amino functional silicone is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group.
• suitable amino functional silicones include: polysiloxanes having the CTFA designation “amodimethicone”.
• amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention are the aminosilicone oils DC 2 -8220, DC 2 -8166 and DC 2 -8566 (all ex Dow Corning).
• Suitable quaternary silicone polymers are described in EP-A-C 530 974.
• a preferred quaternary silicone polymer is K3474, ex Goldschmidt.
• emulsions of amino functional silicone oils with non-ionic and/or cationic surfactant are also available from suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning and General Electric.
• the total amount of silicone is preferably from 0.01 wt. % to 10 wt. % of the total composition more preferably from 0.1 wt. % to 5 wt. %, most preferably 0.5 wt. % to 3 wt. %.
• Typical oils to be used in hair compositions are organic oils, which often are esters.
• the organic oil component may also comprise glyceryl esters of fatty acids, or triglycerides, coconut oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, evening primrose oil, camelina sativa seed oil, grape seed oil, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, corn oil, meadowfoam seed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, and camellia reticulata seed oil.
• sorbitan esters and glyceryl esters as described above.
• the cosmetic composition of the invention may contain from 0.05 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one oil component.
• the composition of the invention can contain from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight of at least one rheology modifying agent, in particular a gelling and thickening agent.
• rheology modifying agent in particular a gelling and thickening agent.
• cellulosic thickeners for example, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum, such as hydroxypropylguar, gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, and synthetic thickeners, such as crosslinked homo- or copolymers of acrylic acid and/or of acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid.
• Other rheology modifying agents include fatty acid amides such as coconut diethanolamide and monoethanolamide, and oxyethylenated monoethanolamide of carboxylic acid alkyl ether.
• Rheology modifying agents are also known as structuring materials.
• Common structuring materials include polymeric materials known as “carbomers”, including, for example the cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymers available from Lubrizol Corporation under the trademark Carbopol®.
• Another class of (meth)acylic acid polymers are alkali-swellable emulsion (ASE) polymers.
• ASE polymers include, for example, Aculyn® 38 copolymer from Dow.
• Carbomers and ASE polymers belong to a class of materials known as hydrodynamic thickeners. These hydrodynamic thickeners include acid groups in their polymeric structure that, when deprotonated, form anionic charges that repel each other, causing the polymer chains to expand and entangle.
• Expansion and chain entanglement can give rise to thickening and suspending effects provided by the deprotonated polymers.
• the properties of these hydrodynamic thickeners are impacted by their molecular weight, acid group content, degree of cross-linking, and extent of swelling.
• These thickeners are also known as “space filling” or “volume excluding”, and tend to increase both viscosity and yield point as the concentration thereof is increased.
• hydrodyamic polymers commonly give rise to compositions that exhibit shear thinning or non-Newtonian behavior.
• Another class of (meth)acrylic acid based rheology modifiers are hydrophobically modified alkali swellable (HASE) polymers.
• the HASE polymers include acid groups, the deprotonation of which gives rise to polymer swelling. Additionally, the HASE polymers include hydrophobic side groups, chains or blocks that give rise to associative interactions with each other, as well as with other hydrophobic species present in the compositions in which they are employed, for example, hydrophobic groups of surfactants, fatty acids, other thickening agents, and the like. Association creates hydrophobic regions distributed throughout the polymer chain network. This can also help to enhance the properties of the materials as solubilizing agents. Aculyn® 22 and Aculyn® 28 copolymers from Dow and Aqua SF-1® copolymer from Lubrizol Corporation are among the commonly used HASE materials. U.S. Pat. No.
• alkali-soluble emulsion polymers activated by neutralization to a pH above 6.5, and subsequently acidified in the presence of a surfactant. These are described as useful thickeners in acidic compositions.
• the polymers are formed from the copolymerization of a monomer system that includes: (1) methacrylic or acrylic acid, (2) methacrylic or acrylic acid ester of a C8-C30 alkyl or, as therein more particularly described, a hydrocarbyl monoether of polyethylene glycol, (3) a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate, and, optionally, (4) a small amount of a polyethylenically unsaturated monomer.
• the shampoo composition according to the present invention is used for topical application to hair, but also skin or nail treatment is possible.
• the composition is also suitable for cleansing animal hair, preferably mammalian hair.
• the shampoo composition comprises 0.01 to 20% by weight of one or more oligoester ammonium salts as described above, in particular of formula (I), based on the total weight of the composition. More preferred, the oligoester ammonium salt is added in an amount from 0.05 to 20%, or from 0.1 to 15%, often 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
• the oligoester ammonium salt is added in an amount high enough to achieve at least one desired effect such as, for example, improved shine (gloss), detangling of hair or static charge reduction.
• the shampoo composition comprises one or more oligoester ammonium salts of formula (I) in an amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. All percentages by weight given herein are based upon the total weight of the composition of the present invention, unless otherwise specified.
• the shampoo composition of the present invention can also comprise as component (F) a fatty compound.
• the fatty compound is included in the composition at a level of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 10% by weight.
• the fatty compound is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols (e.g. cetyl alkohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol), fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
• fatty alcohols can in some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives.
• a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Non-limiting examples are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Fourteenth Edition (2014), and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
• fatty alcohols have 14 to 30 or 16 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and can be linear or branched. Examples of fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
• Preferred fatty acids have from 10 to 30 or from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be saturated and can be linear or branched. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Examples of fatty acids are lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.
• the fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
• fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include methyl stearyl ether; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, poly glyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, and mixtures thereof.
• compositions according to the present invention may also comprise a dispersed, non-volatile, water-insoluble oily conditioning agent.
• insoluble is meant that the material is not soluble in water (distilled or equivalent) at a concentration of 0.1% (w/w), at 25° C.
• Suitable oily or fatty materials are selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof.
• Straight chain hydrocarbon oils will preferably contain from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms.
• polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers such as C2—C6 alkenyl monomers.
• suitable hydrocarbon oils include: paraffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
• Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used.
• Suitable fatty esters are characterised by having at least 10 carbon atoms, and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols,
• Monocarboxylic acid esters include esters of alcohols and/or acids of the formula R′COOR in which R′ and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R′ and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.
• Particularly preferred fatty esters are mono-, di- and triglycerides, more specifically the mono-, di-, and tri-esters of glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as Ci-C22 carboxylic acids.
• Preferred materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil.
• the oily or fatty material is suitably present at a level of from 0.05 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, more preferably from about 0.5 to 3 wt. %.
• the shampoo compositions of the present invention may comprise, in addition to the oligoester ammonium salt and at least one further component (F), an aqueous carrier.
• the level and species of the aqueous carrier are selected according to the compatibility with other components and other desired characteristic of the composition.
• the carrier includes water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols.
• the lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, often ethanol and/or isopropanol.
• the useful polyhydric alcohols include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propane diol.
• the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized water is preferably used. Water from natural sources, including minerals can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the cosmetic composition.
• the cosmetic compositions of the present invention can comprise up to 80%, often even up to 95% by weight of water.
• the shampoo compositions of the present invention may also include as a further component (F), other components being suitable for rendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits.
• a further component (F) other components being suitable for rendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits.
• Such other components can generally be used individually at levels of from 0.001% to 5% by weight.
• a wide variety of further components (F) can be formulated into the present composition.
• conditioning agents such as hydrolysed collagen, vitamin E, or panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, nutrients; and emollients such as PPG-3 myristyl ether, trimethyl pentanol hydroxyethyl ether; hair-fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, and silicone grafted copolymers; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, in general, such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; coloring agents; hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate and persulfate salt
• the composition comprises an anti-fungal substance.
• the anti-fungal substance is selected from the group consisting of ketoconazole, oxiconazole, bifonazole, butoconazole, cloconazole, clotrimazole, econazole, enilconazole, fenticonazole, isoconazole, miconazole, sulconazole, tioconazole, fluconazole, itraconazole, terconazole, naftifine and terbinafine, zinc pyrithione, octopirox, and combinations thereof.
• the composition comprises a total amount of anti-fungal substance in the composition of from 0.1 wt % to 1 wt %.
• the composition comprises a pyridinethione anti-dandruff particulates, for example 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione salts, are highly preferred particulate anti-dandruff agents.
• concentration of pyridinethione antidandruff particulate may ranges from 0.1% to 4%, by weight of the formulation, preferably from 0.1% to 3%, more preferably from 0.3% to 2%.
• Preferred pyridinethione salts include those formed from heavy metals such as zinc, tin, cadmium, magnesium, aluminum and zirconium, preferably zinc, more preferably the zinc salt of 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione (known as “zinc pyridinethione” or “ZPT”), more preferably 1-hydroxy-2-pyridinethione salts in platelet particle form. Salts formed from other cations, such as sodium, may also be suitable.
• Pyridinethione anti-dandruff agents are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 2,809,971; U.S. Pat. No. 3,236,733; U.S. Pat. No. 3,753,196; U.S. Pat. No. 3,761,418; U.S.
• salt is present at levels from 0.1 to 1 wt. % of the total composition to adjust the product viscosity.
• NaOH is present at levels from 0.1 to 1 wt. % of the total composition to adjust the pH of the formulation.
• the shampoo composition of the present invention may contain as a further component (F) a polysorbate for adjusting rheology, for example, polysorbate-20, polysorbate-21, polysorbate-40, polysorbate-60, and mixtures thereof.
• the polysorbate can be contained in the composition in amounts up to 5% (e.g. 0.1 to 5%) by weight.
• the shampoo composition can also contain as a further component (F) a polypropylene glycol.
• Polypropylene glycols are those having a weight average molecular weight of from 200 to 100000 g/mol.
• the polypropylene glycol useful herein may be either water-soluble, water-insoluble, or may have a limited solubility in water, depending upon the degree of polymerization and whether other moieties are attached thereto.
• the desired solubility of the polypropylene glycol in water will depend in large part upon the form of the shampoo composition.
• the polypropylene glycol can be included in the shampoo composition of the present invention at a level of up to 10% by weight.
• the shampoo composition can also contain, as a further component (F), low melting point oil selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbons having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms such as oleyl alcohol; unsaturated fatty acids having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms; fatty acid derivatives; fatty alcohol derivatives; ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trirnethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, and glyceryl ester oils; poly [alpha]-olefin oils; and mixitures thereof.
• low melting point oil selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbons having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms such as oleyl alcohol; unsaturated fatty acids having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms; fatty acid derivatives; fatty alcohol derivatives; ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils
• Preferred low melting point oils herein are selected from the group consisting of: ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, and glyceryl ester oils; poly [alpha]-olefin oils; and mixtures thereof.
• ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, and glyceryl ester oils
• Particularly useful pentaerythritol ester oils and trimethylol ester oils herein include pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and mixtures thereof.
• Particularly useful glyceryl ester include triisostearin, triolein and trilinolein.
• the shampoo composition can also contain, as a further component (F), a cationic polymer.
• Cationic polymers may be present in the composition of the invention for further enhancing deposition performance.
• Suitable cationic polymers may be homopolymers which are cationically substituted or may be formed from two or more types of monomers.
• the weight average (M w ) molecular weight of the polymers will generally be between 100 000 and 2 million g/mol.
• the polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, then the conditioning effect is poor. If too high, then there may be problems of high extensional viscosity leading to stringiness of the composition when it is poured.
• the cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer.
• the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units.
• Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition.
• the ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give polymers having a cationic charge density in the required range, which is generally from 0.2 to 3.0 meq/gm.
• the cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined via the Kjeldahl method as described in the US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests for nitrogen determination.
• Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine.
• the alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C3 alkyl groups.
• Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.
• the cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.
• Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.
• the cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
• Suitable cationic polymers include, for exampl cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,009,256); cationic polyacrylamides(as described in WO95/2231 1).
• CTFA dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
• cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.
• Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of the invention include monomers of the formula: A-O—[R—N + (R 1 )(R 2 )(R 3 )X′′] , wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual.
• R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof.
• R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyi, alkoxyalkyi, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms.
• the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.
• Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from the Amerchol Corporation, for instance under the tradename Polymer LM-200.
• CTFA lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide
• CTFA lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide
• Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. as described in U.S. Pat.
• a particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series).
• a cationic guar gum derivative such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series).
• examples of such materials are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 Jaguar CHT and JAGUAR C162.
• Mixtures of any of the above cationic polymers may be used.
• Cationic polymer may be present in a shampoo composition of the invention at levels of from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.05 to 1%, more preferably from 0.08 to 0.5% by total weight of cationic polymer based on the total weight of the composition.
• the cationic polymers have a number average molecular weight of at least about 5000, typically from 10000 to 10 million (g/mol) and are selected from the group consisting of: copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, and vinyl pyrrolidone.
• suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.
• Preferred cationic polymers are cationic celluloses, cationic starches, and cationic guar gums. Commercially available cationic guar polymers are e.g. Jaguar® from Rhodia or Solvay.
• the composition comprises a preservative or preservative system.
• suitable preservatives include benzyl alcohol, piroctone olamine, phenoxyethanol, parabens, pentanediol, benzoic acid/sodium benzoate, sorbic acid/potassium sorbate, and other organic acids used to provide antimicrobial protection.
• preservation boosting ingredients include anisic acid, lactic acid, sorbitan caprylate, ethylhexylglycerin, caprylyl glycol, octanediol, and similar substances.
• the composition comprises 0.01 to 5 wt %, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt % to 1 wt % of at least one preservative.
• Suitable preservatives are the substances listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 9th Edition with the function “preservatives”.
• the preservative is selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, benzyl paraben, butyl paraben, ethyl paraben, isobutyl paraben, isopropyl paraben, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, methyldibromoglutaronitrile, DMDM hydantoin and combinations thereof.
• the composition comprises a preservative selected from the group consisting of cetyltrimethyl ammoniumchloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, benzethonium chloride, diisobutylethoxyethyldimethyl benzylammoniumchloride, sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate, sodium-N-palmethylsarcosinate, Lauroylsarcosine, N-myristoylglycine, potassium-N-laurylsarcosine, trimethylammoniumchloride, sodium aluminium chlorohydroxylactate, triethylcitrate, tricetylmethylammoniumchloride, 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenylether (Triclosan), phenoxyethanol, 1,5-pentandiol, 1,6-hexandiol, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (Triclocarban), diaminoalkylamide, L-lycyl,
• the preservative is selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, benzyl paraben, butyl paraben, ethyl paraben, isobutyl paraben, isopropyl paraben, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, methyldibromoglutaronitrile, DMDM hydantoin and combinations thereof.
• the composition is substantially free of parabens.
• the shampoo compositions of the present invention can be in the form of rinse-off products or ‘dry shampoo’ products, can be opaque or transparent, and can be formulated in a wide variety of product forms, including creams, gels, emulsions, mousses and sprays.
• the hair cleanser composition of the present invention is in the form of a rinse-off product.
• the shampoo composition is silicone-free.
• the shampoo composition is sulfate-free.
• the shampoo composition comprises:
• the third aspect of the present invention is the use of the oligoester ammonium salt as described, in particular of formula (I) as defined above as an ingredient in a shampoo composition, preferably as a surfactant in a shampoo composition.
• the fourth aspect is a method of preparing the shampoo composition comprising the step of mixing at least one oligoester ammonium salt, in particular of formula (I) as defined above, and at least one further component (F) as defined above.
• the shampoo compositions can be prepared by any conventional method well known in the art. For example, they can be prepared in either hot or cold process, preferably in a cold process (without external heating), by adding the composition ingredients to the aqueous phase, or combining two or more phases (aqueous and/or oil) upon stirring.
• the order of addition of the ingredients depends on the used ingredients, and so does the sequence of neutralization and pH adjustment.
• Individual ingredients may need to be added in molten form from a heated vessel if they are solids at room temperature and not easily soluble in water.
• deionized water heated or at room temperature
• the oligoester ammonium salts optionally purified
• one or more further components (F) are mixed in. Further ingredients are added and temperature adjusted to ensure their best solubility until the components are homogenized, and no solids are observed.
• the fifth aspect is a method of treating hair, comprising:
• the method of treating hair comprises:
• the conditioner composition comprises at least one oligoester ammonium salt (OAS) of formula (I) and at least one further cosmetically acceptable component (F),
• R 3 , R 4 are each independently linear or branched C 1 -C 6 -alkyl or linear or branched hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups;
• the method of treating hair according to the present invention may also include one or more additional steps using commonly known compositions like, for example, a color altering composition, a developer composition, a pre-treatment composition and/or a post-treatment composition.
• Such commonly known compositions include well-known conventional additives being typically applied in hair treatment compositions, such as coloring agents, basifying and acidifying agents, buffers, thickening agents, gelling agents, rheological modifiers, antioxidants, fragrances and chelating agents.
• oligoester ammonium salt of general formula (I) can be achieved by methods known to those skilled in the art, for example, by
• Suitable alkylating agents are, for example, dimethyl sulfate, diethyl sulfate, dimethyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, and alkyl halides, like methyl chloride, ethyl chloride, methyl bromide, ethyl bromide, methyl iodide or ethyl iodide.
• the contacting step is carried out under conditions sufficient to produce oligoester amine, wherein n is an integer from 1 to about 30.
• the components of the reaction mixture can be contacted either sequentially or simultaneously.
• the component (a), said dicarboxylic acid (b), said polyol (c) and said monocarboxylic acid (d) are contacted in the molar ratios described.
• the contacting is carried out in the presence of an esterification catalyst, such as, a Bronstedt or Lewis acid catalyst, or a metal catalyst. Examples are hypophosphorous acid, p-toluene sulfonic acid, titanium tetrabutylate or Fascat®.
• the invention also relates to a multiple-part kit of hair cleaning and hair conditioning compositions.
• kit includes items that are either sold or packaged together.
• the multiple-part kit may be distributed to end users through salons, but one aspect of the invention involves distributing the kits to consumers through retail sales channels such as drugstores, cosmetic stores and on-line stores.
• the kit comprises separate compartments with formulations for a shampoo and a conditioning treatment.
• component refers to any receptacle, regardless of shape, material or closure, which serves a containing function.
• the term includes the interior of a tube, sack, can, tub, bottle, packet, envelope or other vessel.
• the components of the multiple-part kit may be contained in a single receptacle, or may be divided amongst multiple receptacles.
• the multiple-part kit can additionally comprise a compartment with a composition to color the hair and/or a composition to moisturize and maintain the quality of the treated hair.
• kits For bleached or colored hair, additional compartments in the multiple-part kit are advantageous. There is a high need for a hair cleaning and hair conditioning kit, that is easy to use and that provides a consumer specialized care regimen to preserve the condition of the hair.
• the invention provides all this in one multiple-part kit with all the components needed to maintain the condition of the hair for several weeks.
• the kit may include at least one compartment containing a pre-treatment composition.
• Methyl diethanol amine (component (a), 119.2 g, 1.0 mol), behenic acid (component (d), 510.9 g, 1.5 mol), adipic acid (component (b), 219.2 g, 1.5 mol) and glycerol (component (c), 138.16 g, 1.5 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen. The reaction mixture was heated to 160° C. and the distillation of reaction water started. The temperature was increased to 206° C. when the head temperature decreased. The reaction water was continually removed from the reaction mixture by distillation at 160-206° C. over a period of 5 h.
• the oligoester of Example 1 (150.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 85° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate (10.1 g, 0.08 mol, 0.5 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester) was added dropwise over a period of 15 minutes.
• the reaction mixture was stirred for 5 h at 90° C.
• the product (151 g) was obtained as light brown solid (Bas.-N: 0.70%).
• the oligoester of Example 1 (150.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 85° C. Dimethyl sulfate (19.9 g, 0.15 mol, 0.98 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester) was added dropwise over a period of 15 minutes. The reaction mixture was stirred for 5 h at 90° C. The product (154 g) was obtained as light brown solid (Bas.-N: 0.11%).
• Methyl diethanol amine (119.2 g, 1.0 mol), behenic acid (510.9 g, 1.5 mol), adipic acid (219.2 g, 1.5 mol) and triethanolamine (223.8 g, 1.5 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 160° C. for 3 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation. Afterwards the reaction mixture was heated to 200-205° C. for 8 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation.
• the oligoester of Example 4 (300.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 85° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate (92.2 g, 0.73 mol, 0.98 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester) was added dropwise over a period of 20 minutes. During the addition, the resulting product mixture became highly viscous and butyl diglycol (98.1 g) was added. The reaction mixture was stirred for 5 h at 85° C.
• the product 400 g, 80% active content
• the oligoester of Example 4 (330.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 85° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate (51.8 g, 0.41 mol, 0.5 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester) was added dropwise over a period of 20 minutes. During the addition, the resulting product mixture became highly viscous and butyl diglycol (42.4 g) was added. The reaction mixture was stirred for 5 h at 85° C.
• the product (380 g, 90% active content) was obtained as brown wax (Bas.-N: 1.31%).
• Methyl diethanol amine (238.4 g, 2.0 mol), behenic acid (340.4 g, 1.0 mol), adipic acid (219.2 g, 1.5 mol) and glycerol (138.5 g, 1.5 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 160° C. for 2 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation. Afterwards the reaction mixture was heated to 200-205° C. for 7 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation.
• the oligoester of Example 7 (260.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 85° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate (65.3 g, 0.52 mol, 0.98 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester) was added dropwise over a period of 20 minutes. During the addition, the resulting product mixture became highly viscous and butyl diglycol (81.3 g) was added. The reaction mixture was stirred for 5 h at 85 ° C.
• the product (370 g, 80% active content) was obtained as brown wax (Bas.-N ⁇ 0.01%).
• the oligoester of Example 7 (280.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 85° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate 35.9 g, 0.29 mol, 0.5 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester
• the resulting product mixture became highly viscous and butyl diglycol (35.1 g) was added.
• the reaction mixture was stirred for 5 h at 85° C.
• Methyl diethanol amine (238.4 g, 2.0 mol), behenic acid (681.2 g, 2.0 mol), adipic acid (219.2 g, 1.5 mol) and glycerol (138.2 g, 1.5 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 170° C. for 2 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation. Afterwards the reaction mixture was heated to 190° C. for 1 h, then to 200° C. for 1 h and then to 210° C. for 1 h. During heating, reaction water was continually removed from the reaction mixture by distillation.
• the oligoester of Example 10 (255.1 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 60° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate (50.4 g, 0.40 mol, 0.98 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester) was added dropwise over a period of 25 minutes. During the addition, the resulting product mixture became highly viscous and butyl diglycol (30.1 g) was added.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 80° C. and stirred at this temperature for 0.5 h. Subsequently the reaction mixture was heated to 90° C. and stirred at this temperature for 4.5 h.
• the product (288 g, 90% active content) was obtained as brown solid (Bas.-N ⁇ 0.01%).
• Methyl diethanol amine (119.2 g, 1.0 mol), behenic acid (340.6 g, 1.0 mol), adipic acid (219.2 g, 1.5 mol) and glycerol (138.2 g, 1.5 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 170° C. for 1 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation. Afterwards the reaction mixture was heated to 190° C. for 1 h, then to 200° C. for 1 h and then to 210° C. for 0.5 h. During heating, reaction water was continually removed from the reaction mixture by distillation.
• the oligoester of Example 12 (253.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 60° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate (37.3 g, 0.29 mol, 0.98 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester) was added dropwise over a period of 15 minutes. During the addition, the resulting product mixture became highly viscous and butyl diglycol (41.2 g) was added.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 80° C. and stirred at this temperature for 1 h. Afterwards the temperature was increased to 90° C. and the reaction mixture was stirred at this temperature for additional 4 h.
• Methyl diethanol amine (119.2 g, 1.0 mol), behenic acid (170.3 g, 0.5 mol), adipic acid (109.6 g, 0.75 mol) and glycerol (23.0 g, 0.25 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 170° C. for 1 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation. Afterwards the reaction mixture was heated to 180° C. for 2 h, then to 190° C. for 2 h, then to 200° C. for 2 h and then to 210° C. for 1 h.
• the oligoester of Example 14 (150.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 60° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate (42.5 g, 0.34 mol, 0.98 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester) was added dropwise over a period of 30 minutes in a way that the temperature did not exceed 80° C. Due to the high viscosity of the resulting product mixture, butyl diglycol (57.5 g) was added in portions during the addition of dimethyl sulfate. The temperature was increased to 80° C. and the reaction mixture was stirred at tis temperature for 1 h. Afterwards the temperature was increased to 90° C. and the reaction mixture was stirred at this temperature for additional 4 h. The product (349 g, 77% active content) was obtained as brown solid (Bas.-N ⁇ 0.01%).
• Methyl diethanol amine (178.8 g, 1.5 mol), behenic acid (170.3 g, 0.5 mol), adipic acid (109.6 g, 0.75 mol) and glycerol (69.1 g, 0.75 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 170° C. for 2 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation. Afterwards the reaction mixture was heated to 190° C. for 1.5 h and then to 200° C. for 1 h. During heating, reaction water was continually removed from the reaction mixture by distillation.
• the oligoester of Example 16 (234.7 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 60° C.
• Methyl diethanol amine (178.8 g, 1.5 mol), behenic acid (170.3 g, 0.5 mol), adipic acid (109.6 g, 0.75 mol) and glycerol (46.1 g, 0.5 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 170° C. for 2 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation. Afterwards the reaction mixture was heated to 190° C. for 1 h and then to 200° C. for 1 h. During heating, reaction water was continually removed from the reaction mixture by distillation.
• the oligoester of Example 18 (237.9 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 60° C.
• Methyl diethanol amine (178.8 g, 1.5 mol), behenic acid (170.3 g, 0.5 mol), adipic acid (73.1 g, 0.5 mol) and glycerol (69.1 g, 0.75 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 170° C. for 1 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation. Afterwards the reaction mixture was heated to 190° C. for 2 h, then to 200° C. for 1 h and then to 210° C. for 1 h. During heating, reaction water was continually removed from the reaction mixture by distillation.
• the oligoester of Example 20 (150.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 60° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate (44.8 g, 0.36 mol, 0.98 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester) was added dropwise over a period of 30 minutes. During the addition, the resulting product mixture became highly viscous and butyl diglycol (41.1 g) was added.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 80° C. and stirred at this temperature for 1 h. Afterwards the temperature was increased to 90° C. and the reaction mixture was stirred at this temperature for additional 4 h.
• the product (210 g, 83% active content) was obtained as brown solid (Bas.-N not detected).
• Methyl diethanol amine (178.8 g, 1.5 mol), behenic acid (170.3 g, 0.5 mol), adipic acid (36.5 g, 0.25 mol) and glycerol (69.1 g, 0.75 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 170° C. for 1 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation. Afterwards the reaction mixture was heated to 190° C. for 2 h and then to 200° C. for 1.5 h. During heating, reaction water was continually removed from the reaction mixture by distillation.
• the oligoester of Example 22 (150.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 60° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate (44.8 g, 0.36 mol, 0.98 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester) was added dropwise over a period of 30 minutes. During the addition, the resulting product mixture became highly viscous and butyl diglycol (17.5 g) was added.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 80° C. and stirred at this temperature for 1 h. Afterwards the temperature was increased to 90° C. and the reaction mixture was stirred at this temperature for additional 4 h.
• the product (177 g, 92% active content) was obtained as brown solid (Bas.-N ⁇ 0.17%).
• Methyl diethanol amine (178.8 g, 1.5 mol), behenic acid (170.3 g, 0.5 mol), sebacic acid (220.8 g, 0.75 mol) and glycerol (69.1 g, 0.75 mol) were charged in a 2 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 170° C. for 1 h and reaction water was removed from the reaction mixture by distillation. Afterwards the reaction mixture was heated to 190° C. for 2 h and then to 200° C. for 2 h. During heating, reaction water was continually removed from the reaction mixture by distillation.
• the oligoester of Example 24 (150.0 g) was charged in a 1 L flask equipped with a stirrer, distillation apparatus and thermometer under an atmosphere of nitrogen and heated to 60° C.
• Dimethyl sulfate 38.6 g, 0.31 mol, 0.98 equivalents/nitrogen atom in the oligoester
• the resulting product mixture became highly viscous and butyl diglycol (15.9 g) was added.
• the reaction mixture was heated to 80° C. and stirred at this temperature for 1 h. Afterwards the temperature was increased to 90° C. and the reaction mixture was stirred at this temperature for additional 4 h.
• the product (182 g, 92% active content) was obtained as brown solid (Bas.-N ⁇ 0.07%).
• the shampoo compositions of examples 26 to 48 are prepared by mixing the components, as listed below.
• Shampoo compositions are either transparent or opaque thick liquids with appearance and physical properties similar to commercially available rinse-off shampoo products.
• the pH-values of the formulations are adjusted to 4.5 to 6.5. INCI names and active levels in weight are provided for each ingredient.
• Hair swatches were pre-washed two times in tap water (Frankfurt, Germany) with controlled temperature (37° C.) and water flow (4 L/min) using a 14% (active ingredient) sodium laureth sulfate, SLES, solution in water (pH 5.5), using 0.1 g/g SLES/Hair.
• shampoo wash was performed two times, by applying the shampoo, massaging and rinsing the hair with water.
• Wet detangling force was measured on wet swatches using Diastron (UK) MTT 175 tester, and then the hair was allowed to dry overnight at controlled temperature and humidity (22° C., 45% RH).
• hair gloss on the dry swatches was measured with Samba Hair System (Bossa Nova Tech, Calif., USA). BNT numbers for hair gloss calculated by the Bossa Nova algorithm are reported. For each product, three hair tresses were used, and each was measured three times.
• OAS of Example 5 considerably improves the ease of detangling by lowering the force needed to detangle the hair, which is normally perceived by consumers as conditioning and repairing effect.
• the OAS of Example 5 increases hair gloss by a level visually perceived by consumers. This gives the effect of repaired and healthier hair.
• OAS are expected to deliver additional consumer benefits, such as volume and/or frizz reduction, conditioned and/or moisturized after-feel on dry hair, ease of styling, etc.
• the molecular mass Mn (number average) aka number average molecule weight used herein is measured by GPC.
• GPC is a special type of liquid chromatography in which the sample is separated according to the hydrodynamic volumes of the individual constituents. Detection is effected by e.g. refractive index and yields a simple distribution curve. To attribute actual molecular weight values to the curve, it is necessary to calibrate the column by passing down polymers of known molecular weight. GPC herein was determined under the following conditions:
• RID reffractive index detector
• Oven temperature 40° C.

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