US20150218737A1

US20150218737A1 - Article of apparel including apertures

Info

Publication number: US20150218737A1
Application number: US14/613,055
Authority: US
Inventors: Kyle Blakely
Original assignee: Under Armour Inc
Current assignee: Under Armour Inc
Priority date: 2014-02-03
Filing date: 2015-02-03
Publication date: 2015-08-06
Also published as: US20180100252A1

Abstract

An article of apparel is formed of a woven textile structure including channels formed by selectively removing warp and/or weft yarns from the textile structure. Specifically, the removed yarns define engineered apertures within textile structure. The apertures, oriented along the warp and weft directions, provide an article of apparel with good breathability and air permeability properties.

Description

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

The present application claims priority to provisional application No. 61/934,962, entitled “Woven Garment Including Engineered Apertures” and filed on 3 Feb. 2014. The disclosure of the above application is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed toward apparel and, in particular, to an article of apparel that incorporates a textile including apertures providing air permeability and breathability to the article of apparel.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Textiles are manufactured from fibers, filaments, or yarns. Textiles are produced through various production methods, including nonwoven processes, knitting processes, and weaving processes. Nonwoven textiles are webs of fibers connected via bonding, fusing, or interlocking Knit textiles include consecutive rows of loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. Woven textiles include a set of lengthwise threads (called the warp) interlaced with a set of crossing threads (called the weft). Knitted textiles are loose, including spaces between the loops that permit air to pass therethrough. Accordingly, the knitting process forms a highly breathable fabric. In contrast, woven textiles, while strong and durable, are dense and tight. Consequently, woven textiles possess poor breathability. Thus, it would be desirable to form a woven garment having improved breathability of the garment.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed toward an article of apparel formed from a textile including a plurality of engineered apertures. In an embodiment, the textile is a woven fabric including apertures formed by selectively removing warp and/or weft yarns from the textile structure. By way of example, the yarns may be dissolved with a dissolving agent. The apertures are aligned along the channel left by the removed yarn. Accordingly, the plurality of apertures is oriented along the warp direction and/or weft direction of the textile structure. The textile is incorporated into and/or forms an article of apparel such as pants, shirts, suits, outerwear, footwear, sports jerseys, etc. The resulting article of apparel possesses high breathability and/or air permability, increasing the comfort of the wearer.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE SEVERAL VIEWS OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1A illustrates a schematic of a woven textile in accordance with the invention.

FIG. 1B illustrates a cross sectional view of the textile of FIG. 1A, taken along line 1B.

FIG. 1C illustrates the textile of FIG. 1A, showing dissolvable yarns within the structure.

FIG. 1D illustrates the textile of FIG. 1C, showing dissolved yarns and apertures in the textile.

FIG. 2 illustrates a schematic of the textile in accordance with the invention, showing removal of a yarn from the structure and the formation of an aperture.

FIG. 3A illustrates a suit jacket in accordance with the invention.

FIG. 3B is a close-up view of the suit jacket of FIG. 3A, showing the jacket lining.

FIG. 4A is an isolated, close-up view of the suit jacket exterior, showing the engineered apertures oriented along the warp and weft directions of the textile.

FIG. 4B is a close-up view of the jacket shown in FIG. 4A taken from box labeled 4B.

FIG. 5A is a close-up view of the suit jacket lining, showing the engineered apertures.

FIG. 5B is a close-up view of the lining textile of FIG. 5A, taken from box 5B.

FIG. 5C illustrates an isolated view of the lining textile showing the engineered apertures.

Like reference numerals have been used to identify like elements throughout this disclosure.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

An article of apparel in accordance with the present invention is formed from a textile structure including yarn. Yarn, which possesses a substantial length and small cross-section, is formed from filaments or fibers. Filaments, which have an indefinite length, are generally formed from synthetic polymers such as rayon, nylon, and polyester. Typically, filaments are combined with other filaments to produce yarn. Accordingly, yarn may be formed from filaments of the same material, or may be formed from filaments of different materials. Fibers have a relatively short length and require spinning or twisting processes to produce a yarn of suitable length. Common examples of fibers are cotton and wool. As with filaments, yarns may be formed from fibers of the same or different materials.
Several types of yarn may be utilized. Spun yarn includes a number of fibers twisted together. Zero-twist yarn includes a number of filaments laid together without twist. Twist yarn includes a number of filaments laid together with a degree of twist. A monofilament yarn includes a single filament with or without twist.
The textile structure, moreover, may be a woven fabric. In weaving, two or more yarns are interlaced so that the yarns they cross each other at right angles to produce woven fabric. The warp yarns (ends) run lengthwise (longitudinally) in the fabric, while the weft yarns (filling threads or picks) run from side to side (transversely). The set of lengthwise threads (called the warp) are interlaced with a set of crossing threads (called the weft) via a loom. Several types of weaving patterns may be utilized to form the textile structure. In plain weaving, the warp and weft are aligned so they form a simple crisscross pattern. Specifically, each weft thread crosses the warp threads, with a first warp thread alternately going over one warp thread and under the adjacent warp thread. The adjacent weft thread inverts this process, with the weft thread crossing under the warp thread the previous thread crossed over.
A basket weave, similar to the plain weave, includes two or more warp and filling threads woven side by side to resemble a plaited basket. In a satin weave, the face of the fabric consists almost completely of warp or filling floats produced in the repeat of the weave. A twill weave is characterized by diagonal lines produced by a series of floats staggered in the warp direction. A double weave includes two systems of warp or filling threads combined such that only one is visible on either side. A leno weave includes warp yarns arranged in pairs, with one warp yarn twisted around another warp yarn between picks of filling yarn. A pile weave includes an additional set of yarns, either warp or filling, that floats on the surface. The surface yarns are cut to form a pile.
Woven textiles, while strong and durable, are dense and tight. Consequently, woven textiles have poor breathability and/poor air permeability. Breathability is the ability of a fabric to allow moisture vapor to pass through it. Air permeability, in contrast, relates to the porosity or the ease with which air passes through the textile. Both air permeability and breathability influence the comfort, warmth, or coolness of a fabric.
In accordance with the invention, the textile structure includes a plurality of engineered apertures that improve the air permeability and/or the breathability of the textile. An engineered aperture (also called a dissolution void) within the context of the invention is an opening in the woven textile structure created by removal of one or more weft yarns and/or one or more warp yarns from the structure. In particular, an engineered aperture is an opening formed by removing intersecting weft and warp yarns. For example, the yarns may be removed in a non-mechanical manner. In an embodiment, the yarns are removed chemically, e.g., via dissolution (explained in greater detail below). The apertures pass completely through the textile structure to permit fluid (air and/or water vapor) to pass therethrough.
An engineered aperture is not a discrete opening in the fabric formed mechanically, e.g., by means such as punching or cutting. An engineered aperture, moreover, is not an opening existing as a result of the textile formation (e.g., a weaving or knitting process) such as a mesh fabric. Furthermore, an engineered aperture is not an opening formed by changing a physical parameter of the yarns, e.g., by changing yarn dimensions (e.g., via water absorption). Finally, an engineered aperture is not an opening formed by etching with a mask. In etching, caustic chemical action removes a discrete area of the fabric to form the opening. The etchant merely breaks the weft or warp yarn—the weft or warp yarn is not completely removed.
The textile structure utilized to form the article of apparel includes a removable yarn and a non-removable yarn. Specifically, the textile structure is a woven fabric including a dissolvable yarn and an inert or non-dissolvable yarn. The dissolvable yarn is formed of a natural or synthetic polymer configured or selected to dissolve in dissolving agent. In an embodiment, the dissolvable yarn may be a water soluble yarn such as polyvinyl alcohol (PVA). Accordingly, the dissolving agent may be water (e.g., water elevated to a predetermined temperature). In another embodiment, the dissolving agent is aluminum sulfate or acid sodium sulfate, and the dissolvable yarn is formed of cellulose fibers (e.g., rayon, lyocell, and cotton) or a polyamide fiber (e.g., 6,6-nylon). In another embodiment, the dissolvable yarn is modified polyester and the dissolving agent is sodium hydroxide.
The inert yarn is formed of a material (e.g., a natural or synthetic polymer) that does not dissolve in the dissolving agent capable of dissolving the dissolvable yarn. By way of example, the inert yarn is includes polyurethane or polyester (e.g., unmodified polyester).
The manner of forming the article of apparel is explained with reference to the figures. Referring to FIGS. 1A and 1B, the textile structure 200 is formed via weaving; accordingly, it includes a plurality of weft yarns 205 interwoven with a plurality of warp yarns 210 such that the warp and weft yarns cross at substantially right angles to each other. As seen best in FIG. 1C, the plurality of weft yarns 205 includes dissolvable yarns 215A and inert yarns 215B. Similarly, the plurality of warp yarns 210 includes both dissolvable yarns 220A and inert yarns 220B.
After the formation of the textile 200, the dissolvable yarns 215A, 220A and inert yarns 215B, 220B are exposed to a dissolving agent. The dissolving agent may be applied via any process suitable for its described purpose (i.e., to apply the agent such that it contacts the entire textile). In an embodiment, the dissolving agent is sprayed onto the textile structure 200. In another embodiment, the textile structure 200 is drawn though a bath containing the dissolving agent. That is, both the dissolvable yarns 215A, 215B and the inert yarns 215B, 220B come into contact with the dissolving agent. While the inert yarns 215B, 220B remain intact, the dissolvable yarns 215A, 220A dissolve in the dissolving agent (i.e., the yarns fall into solution with the solvent). Consequently, as shown in FIG. 1D, selected yarns (i.e., the dissolvable yarns 215A, 220A) are removed from the textile structure 200, leaving an elongated weft channel or gap 225 and an elongated warp channel or gap 230 where the yarns 215A, 220A existed. Along these gaps 225, 230 are the engineered apertures.
In an embodiment, two types of engineered apertures are formed, namely, a first or small engineered aperture 235 possessing a first, size or diameter and a second or large engineered aperture 240 possessing a second size or diameter, the second diameter being greater than the first diameter. In general, the small engineered apertures 235 exist along those areas where only the weft yarn 205 or warp yarn 210 is removed. The large engineered aperture 240 exists at the intersection of removed weft 205 and warp 210 yarns. That is, the areas of the textile structure 200 where both the warp 205 and weft 210 yarns are removed define the large engineered apertures 240. As shown below, the shape of the engineered apertures (and, in particular, the large apertures 240) may be polygonal (e.g., square or rectangular).
While FIG. 1D illustrates a textile with both weft 205 and warp 210 yarns are removed, it should be understood that selected yarns from one set of yarns—either the weft yarns or the warp yarns—may be removed. This is illustrated in FIG. 2 (dissolved weft yarn 220A shown in phantom). It should further be understood that dissolvable 215A, 220A and inert 215B, 220B yarns may be positioned within the textile structure 200 in any manner suitable for its described purpose. For example, the dissolvable and inert yarns may alternate along the longitudinal or transverse dimensions of the textile structure 200. In another embodiment, multiple dissolvable yarns are positioned in succession, with a plurality of dissolvable yarns being adjacent each other. Each plurality of dissolvable yarns may be separated by a plurality of inert yarns.
In this manner, the textile structure 200—and thus the resulting article of apparel—includes a plurality of engineered apertures 235, 240 aligned along the textile's weft direction and/or warp direction. Specifically, a first set of engineered apertures is oriented in the transverse fabric direction, being aligned along the longitudinal axis of the elongated gap formed by the dissolved weft yarn 205 (indicated by arrow W_weft). Similarly, a second set of engineered apertures is oriented in the longitudinal fabric direction, being generally aligned along the longitudinal axis of the elongated gap formed by the dissolved warp yarn 210 (indicated by arrow W_warp).
The resulting textile, then, may include alternating small apertures 235 and large diameter apertures 240 along the warp axis W_warpor weft axis W_weft. By way of example, a large aperture 240 may be separated from an adjacent large aperture 240 by a plurality of small apertures 235. In an embodiment, the small apertures possess a diameter that is 100 μm or less, while the large apertures possess a diameter greater than 100 μm (e.g., 200 to 5,000 μm).
The article of apparel formed utilizing the above textile 200 is not only durable, but also possesses a high degree of air permeability and/or breathability. In contrast, if mechanical means were utilized to perforate the fabric, the yarns would unravel, creating a run in the textile (and thus the article of apparel). Circular knit fabrics, moreover, are prone to runs when the fabric is mechanically perforated. That is, should the fabric be perforated at a point, stitches proximate the point will unravel, creating a run/tear in the fabric and/or causing the yarns to fray. The engineered apertures of the invention, however, do not weaken the interwoven connection of the yarns. Accordingly, the resulting article of apparel remains strong, and is not subject to fraying/running Thus, forming the textile 200 so as to have engineered apertures results in fabric having increased durability and strength.
The resulting process further results in textile 200 that is lighter than a similar garment that does not contain engineered apertures, i.e., a garment lacking apertures or a garment that is mechanically perforated. As noted above, the process completely removes weft yarns 205 and/or warp yarns 210 from the textile 200. Accordingly, the overall weight of the textile (and the resulting article of apparel) is reduced. This is in contrast to etching, in which an etchant is selectively placed at desired locations to remove a portion of a weft or warp yarn. The resulting textile remains heavy since a substantial portion of the weft and/or warp yarn remains (i.e., etching only breaks the connection along the yarn). Similarly, perforating the textile 200 via mechanical means such as punching merely breaks the connection along the yarn 205, 210. Since the yarn is still present in the textile, it adds to its weight. This disadvantage is avoided with the textile 200 of the present invention.
An article of apparel including the textile with engineered apertures 235, 240 is illustrated in FIGS. 3A, 3B, 4A, 4B, 5A, 5B, and 5C. Referring to FIGS. 3A and 3B, the suit jacket 105 includes an exterior shell 405 and an interior lining 410. As shown in FIGS. 4A and 4B, the shell 405 is formed of woven textile including dissolved weft sections 225 and dissolved warp sections 230 as described above. Where only one directional yarn (warp or weft) is dissolved, areas of small apertures 235 result (i.e., a plurality of small apertures is formed). Where both directional yarns 235, 240 are dissolved, i.e., at the intersection point of weft and warp, a large aperture 240 is formed. Accordingly, as seen in the figures, a dissolved weft channel 225 includes aligned apertures 235, 240 oriented in the weft direction. Similarly, the dissolved warp channel 230 includes aligned apertures 235, 240 oriented in the warp direction. As shown, the apertures 235, 240 may be configured to alternate in the warp or weft direction, with runs of a plurality of small diameter apertures 235 being interrupted periodically by a large diameter aperture 240.
Similarly, the lining 410 is formed from textile including dissolved weft sections 225 and dissolved warp sections 230 as described above. Where only one directional yarn (warp or weft) is dissolved, areas of small apertures 235 result (i.e., a plurality of small apertures is formed). Where both directional yarns are dissolved, i.e., at the intersection point of weft and warp yarns that were dissolved, a large aperture 240 is formed. Accordingly, as seen in the figures, a dissolved weft channel 225 includes aligned apertures 235, 240 oriented in the weft direction. Similarly, the dissolved warp channel 230 includes aligned apertures 235, 240 oriented in the warp direction. As shown, the apertures 235, 240 may be configured to alternate in the warp or weft direction, with a collection of small diameter apertures 235 being separated by large diameter apertures 240.
The article of apparel may be a multilayer garment including a first layer including engineered apertures coupled (e.g., connected via stitching) a second layer including engineered apertures. The apertures of the first layer may align with the apertures of the second layer. Alternatively, the apertures of the first layer may be offset with respect to the apertures of the second layer. A cavity may exist between the first that second layers. The cavity may permit fluid flow around the fabric. In another embodiment, the cavity may be filled with insulation.
The resulting textile including engineered apertures provides a woven textile with improved air permeability and/or breathability. The weight of the resulting article of apparel, furthermore, is less than the same article of apparel without the engineered apertures or with apertures formed mechanically (laser perforation, punching, etc.)
While the invention has been described in detail and with reference to specific embodiments thereof, it will be apparent to one skilled in the art that various changes and modifications can be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope thereof. In other embodiments, the dissolving agent may be placed onto selected yarns to initiate dissolution of those yarns while leaving the others intact. For example, various printing processes may be used to selectively deposit the dissolving agent onto the textile yarns. Additionally, processes such as chemical vapor deposition may be utilized. Accordingly, only the yarns to be dissolved would be contacted by the dissolving agent. With this configuration, the entire textile may be formed of dissolvable yarns, with the yarns selectively dissolved by selective placement of the dissolving agent. The yarns may possess any dimensions (diameter/shape) suitable for its descried purpose. In an embodiment, the dernier of each of the warp and weft yarns are the same. Alternatively, the dernier of the warp yarn may be greater than the dernier of the weft yarn, or vice versa. By way of example the weft yarn may possess a larger dernier than the warp yarn.
The engineered apertures are not formed via mechanical processes such as laser cutting, punching, etc. The engineered apertures are further not formed of an etching process involving an aperture mask.
The aperture dimensions (diameter and shape) may be any diameter suitable for its described purpose. The aperture dimensions may be selected by selecting yarns of a desired denier (the larger the denier, the larger the aperture). The aperture dimensions may be selected to impart air permeability or breathability, while being waterproof (e.g., apertures having a diameter of less than 100 μm), based on the fact that water droplets generally possess a diameter of 100 μm or more. In an embodiment, the apertures range in size from 0.0004 μm to 1000 μm. In another embodiment, the apertures range in size from 1 mm to 5 mm.
The ratio of the diameter of the small aperture to the large aperture may be 1:2. In other embodiments, the ratio of the diameter of the small aperture to the large aperture is approximately 1:1.5 to 1:5.
The density of engineered apertures within the textile structure may be selected to provide the desired amount of air permeability and/or breathability. In and embodiment, the textile includes approximately 10 engineered apertures per square centimeter of textile surface.
The article of apparel includes garments such as headwear, outerwear (coats, jackets, and gloves), pants, shorts, shirts, socks, footwear, etc. In an embodiment, the article of apparel is a suit including a jacket and pants. The suit jacket includes a torso portion, a first arm portion, and a second arm portion. The pants include a waist portion, a first leg portion, and a second leg potion. The entire article of apparel may include the engineered apertures. For example, each pant leg of the pants, as well as the torso and arm portions may include the engineered apertures.
Thus, it is intended that the present invention covers the modifications and variations of this invention provided they come within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents. It is to be understood that terms such as “top,” “bottom,” “front,” “rear,” “side,” “height,” “length,” “width,” “upper,” “lower,” “interior,” “exterior,” “medial,” “lateral,” and the like as may be used herein, merely describe points of reference and do not limit the present invention to any particular orientation or configuration.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. An article of apparel comprising

a woven textile structure including a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of weft yarns,

a warp channel defined by an elongated gap along the warp of the textile structure, the warp channel formed by removal of a warp yarn of the plurality of warp yarns,

a weft channel defined by an elongated gap along the weft of the textile structure, the weft channel formed by removed of a weft yarn from the plurality of weft yarns

an engineered aperture disposed at an intersection of the warp channel and the weft channel, the engineered aperture permitting flow of fluid through the textile structure.

2. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein the plurality of warp yarns comprises a dissolving yarn dissolvable by a dissolving agent and an inert yarn not dissolvable by the dissolving agent.

3. The article of apparel according to claim 2, wherein the plurality of weft yarns comprises a dissolvable yarn dissolvable by a dissolving agent and an inert yarn not dissolvable by the dissolving agent.

4. The article of apparel according to claim 3, wherein the dissolvable yarn comprises modified polyester and dissolving agent comprises sodium hydroxide.

5. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein the textile structure further comprises:

a plurality of weft channels disposed at predetermined locations along the textile structure, wherein adjacent weft channels of the plurality of weft channels are separated by one or more weft yarns; and

a plurality of warp channels disposed at predetermined locations along the textile structure, wherein adjacent warp channels of the plurality of warp channels are separated by one or more warp yarns.

6. The article of apparel according to claim 5, wherein:

the plurality of weft channels and the plurality of warp channels cooperate to form a plurality of engineered apertures oriented in spaced relation along the textile structure; and

the plurality of engineered apertures permit passage of fluid through the textile structure.

7. The article of apparel according to claim 6, wherein the fluid is air.

8. The article of apparel according to claim 6, wherein the fluid is water vapor.

9. The article of apparel according to claim 6, wherein the plurality of engineered apertures comprises:

a first engineered aperture possessing a first diameter; and

a second engineered aperture possessing a second diameter, wherein the second diameter is greater than the first aperture.

10. The article of apparel according to claim 9, wherein ratio of the second diameter size to the first diameter is approximately 1.5:1 to 5:1.

11. The article of apparel according to claim 9, wherein one of the first or second diameters is greater than 100 μm.

12. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein the fluid at least one of fluid or water vapor.

13. The article of apparel according to claim 12, wherein each of the warp yarn and the weft yarn comprises a synthetic polymer.

14. The article of apparel according to claim 1, comprising a plurality of engineered apertures oriented along each of the warp channel and the weft channel.

15. An article of apparel formed of a textile, the textile comprising:

a plurality of warp yarns, said plurality including an inert warp yarn and a dissolvable warp yarn;

a plurality of weft yarns interwoven with the plurality of warp yarns; and

a plurality of dissolution voids formed via exposing the plurality of warp yarns to a dissolving agent to dissolve the dissolvable warp yarn.

16. The article of apparel according to claim 15, wherein:

the plurality of weft yarns includes an inert yarn and a dissolvable weft yarn;

the dissolving agent further dissolves the dissolvable weft yarn.

17. The article of apparel according to claim 16, wherein:

the dissolvable warp yarn comprises modified polyester; and

the dissolving agent comprises sodium hydroxide.

18. The article of apparel according to claim 17, wherein the inert yarn is not dissolved by the dissolving agent.

19. The article of apparel according to claim 15, wherein the article of apparel weighs less than the same or similar article of apparel including apertures formed mechanically.