US20140050676A1

US20140050676A1 - Method for Treating Skin with Retinoids and Retinoid Boosters

Info

Publication number: US20140050676A1
Application number: US13/764,090
Authority: US
Inventors: Stewart Paton Granger; Ian Richard Scott; Robert Mark Donovan; Susanne Tekits Lobst; Lisa Licameli
Original assignee: Conopco Inc
Current assignee: Conopco Inc
Priority date: 2000-06-30
Filing date: 2013-02-11
Publication date: 2014-02-20
Also published as: CZ20024220A3; KR20030011937A; WO2002002074A3; US8226933B2; ZA200210288B; EP1333800A2; EP1333800B1; AU2001279687B2; US7959913B2; KR100866671B1; US8409550B2; CA2412788C; US20040043044A1; US20080234342A1; WO2002002074A2; PL365167A1; CA2412788A1; US20120258061A1; US20110206626A1; BR0112142A

Abstract

A skin care product comprising from about 0.001% to about 10% of a retinoid, in combination with 0.0001% to about 50% of a combination of retinoid boosters.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic skin conditioning compositions containing certain compounds which mimic the effect on skin of retinoic acid.
Retinol (vitamin A) is an endogenous compound which occurs naturally in the human body, and is essential for normal epithelial cell differentiation. Natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives have been used extensively in the treatment of a variety of skin disorders and have been used as skin repair or renewal agents. Retinoic acid has been employed to treat a variety of skin conditions, e.g., acne, wrinkles, psoriasis, age spots and discoloration. See e.g., Vahlquist, A. et al., J. Invest. Dermatol., Vol. 94, Holland D. B. and Cunliffe, W. J. (1990), pp. 496-498; Ellis, C. N. et al., “Pharmacology of Retinols in Skin”, Vasel, Karger, Vol. 3, (1989), pp. 249-252; Lowe, N. J. et al., “Pharmacology of Retinols in Skin”, Vol. 3, (1989), pp. 240-248; PCT Patent Application No. WO 93/19743.
It is believed that retinol esters and retinol are enzymatically converted in the skin into retinoic acid according to the following mechanism:
The present invention is based on the discovery that certain compounds enhance the conversion of retinyl esters and retinol to retinoic acid. The compounds are collectively termed “boosters” and are coded as groups B1 to B5 according to the boosting mechanism of the particular compound. The mechanism of the booster groups is as follows: inhibiting ARAT/LRAT (AcylCoenzymeA(CoA): retinol acyl transferase/Lecithin: retinol acyl transferase) activity (B1), enhancing retinol dehydrogenase activity (B2), inhibiting retinal reductase activity (B3), antagonising CRABP-II (Cellular Retinoic Acid Binding Protein II) binding of retinoic acid (B4) and inhibiting cytochrome P450 dependent retinoic acid oxidation (B5).
The boosters alone or in combination with each other potentiate the action of retinoids by increasing the conversion of the retinoids to retinoic acid and preventing the degradation of retinoic acid. The boosters act in conjunction with a retinoid (e.g. retinol, retinyl esters, retinal, retinoic acid), the latter being present endogenously in the skin. The preferred compositions, however, include a retinoid in the composition, co-present with a booster or a combination of boosters, to optimise performance.
Several patents by Granger et al describe the use of retinoid boosters in cosmetic compositions to improve the efficacy of retinol and retinyl esters (U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,759,556, 5,756,109, 5,747,051, 5,716,627, 5,811,110, 5,536,740, 5,747,051, 5,599,548, 5,955,092, 5,885,595, 5,759,556, 5,693,330). The boosters described in these patents are restricted to class B1 and B5. Furthermore Johnson & Johnson have a series of patents which describe the use of molecules which fall into class 5 booster molecules (U.S. Pat. No. 5,028,628; U.S. Pat. No. 5,037,829; U.S. Pat. No. 5,151,421; U.S. Pat. No. 476,852; U.S. Pat. No. 5,500,435; U.S. Pat. No. 5,583,136; U.S. Pat. No. 5,612,354).
The molecules which act as retinoid boosters are common ingredients in cosmetic products. There is considerable prior art describing their use in cosmetic compositions. There is substantial prior art describing the use of two or more of these molecules in the same composition. Some of the examples of the prior art are as in U.S. Pat. No. 5,665,367, U.S. Pat. No. 5,747,049, U.S. Pat. No. 5,853,705, U.S. Pat. No. 5,766,575, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,849,310.
However, the prior art does not describe synergy arising from combinations of booster molecules. This observation of a synergistic boosting of retinoid activity from combinations of booster molecules was an unexpected finding. The prior art does not describe optimal concentrations or ratios of booster molecules or ratios of booster molecules to that of retinoids. Thus, the present invention is novel in that by combining cosmetic retinoids with booster molecules, at the most appropriate concentrations or ratios, a substantial improvement in efficacy of the retinoids is obtained.
The classes of boosters suitable for use in the present invention include but are not limited to the boosters listed in Tables B1 through to B5.
Best Groups of Boosters


B1 Compounds

	1. Fatty Acid Amides	These are readily commercially
		available and have the added
		advantage of being surfactants and
		thus help generate emulsions
		suitable for cosmetic preparations.
	2. Ceramides	These can additionally act as
		precursors of stratum corneum
		barrier ceramides.
	3. Carotenoids	These can offer some UV protection
		and act as natural colorants.
	4. Flavanoids	Natural antioxidants.
	5. Cyclic fragrances	These are readily commercially
		available and additionally can be
		used to fragrance the product.
	6. Non-cyclic	These can be used to fragrence the
	fragrances	product.
	7. Phospholipid	These can be utilised by skin cells
	analogues	to nourish the generation of
		barrier components.
	8. Ureas	These are readily commercially
		available and can also act as
		preservatives for the product.


B2 Compounds

	1. Phosphatidyl choline	Most preferred as most active
		activator of Retinol
		Dehydrogenase
	2. Sphingomyelin


B3 compounds

	Arachidonic Acid	Fatty Acids which can be
	Linoleic Acid	useful in maintaining stratum
	Linolenic Acid	corneum barrier
	Myristic Acid
	Linoleic Acid	Essential Fatty Acids
	Linolenic Acid
	Arachidonic Acid	Non-essential fatty acids
	Myristic Acid
	Glycyrrhetinic Acid	Polycyclic triterpane
		carboxylic acid which is
		readily obtained from plant
		sources.
	Phosphatidyl ethanolamine	Can be incorporated into
		cellular membranes.


B4 Compounds

	Hexadecanedioic acid	Saturated fatty acids.
	12-hydroxystearic acid
	Isostearic acid
	Linseed oil	Unsaturated fatty acids
	Elaidic acid
	Elaidic acid	Solid at room temperature
	Isostearic acid
	Hexadecanedioic acid
	Linseed oil	Liquid at room temperature
	12-hydroxystearic acid


B5 Compounds

	Bifonazole	Antimicotics
	Climbazole
	Clotrimazole
	Econazole
	Ketoconazole
	Miconazole
	Climbazole	Readily commercially available
	Lauryl	Compounds which are readily
	hydroxyethylimidazoline	commercially available and have
		the added advantage of being
		surfactants and thus help
		generate emulsions suitable for
		cosmetic preparations.
	Quercetin	Naturally occuring flavanoid
		which has antioxidant
		properties.
	Coumarin	Natural colorant
	Quinolines
	Isoquinolines
	Metyrapone

The present invention includes, in part, a skin conditioning composition containing from about 0.0001% to about 50%, preferably from 0.001% to 10%, most preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight of the composition of a booster or combination of boosters and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
The boosters or combinations thereof included in the inventive compositions are selected from the group consisting of:

- (a) a booster selected from the group consisting of B2; B3; B4;
- (b) binary combinations of boosters selected from the group consisting of:
- B1/B2; B1/B3; B1/B4; B1/B5; B2/B3, B2/B4; B2/B5, B3/B4; B3/B5; B4/B5
- (c) ternary combinations of boosters selected from the group consisting of:
- B1/B2/B3; B1/B2/B4; B1/B2/B5; B1/B3/B4; B1/B3/B5; B1/B4/B5; B2/B3/B4; B2/B3/B5; B2/B4/B5; B3/B4/B5
- (d) quaternary combinations of boosters selected from the group consisting of:
- B1/B2/B3/B4; B1/B2/B3/B5; B1/B2/B4/B5; B1/B3/B4/B5; B2/B3/B4/B5; and
- (e) a combination of five groups of boosters:
- B1/B2/B3/B4/B5.

The preferred compositions include from about 0.001% to about 10%, by weight of the composition of a retinoid.
The compounds included in the present invention as boosters are selected based on the ability of such compounds to pass, at a certain concentration listed in Table A, in-vitro Assays for a specific enzymes as described below under sections 2.1 through to 2.7. Such a booster is included in the present invention even if it is not explicitly mentioned herein. Put another way, if a compound inhibits or enhances sufficiently an enzyme in an assay described below, it will act in combination with a retinoid to mimic the effect on keratinocytes (skin cells) of retinoic acid, and thus it is included within the scope of the present invention.
The term “conditioning” as used herein means prevention and treatment of dry skin, acne, photo-damaged skin, appearance of wrinkles, age spots, aged skin, increasing stratum corneum flexibility, lightening skin colour, controlling sebum excretion and generally increasing the quality of skin. The composition may be used to improve skin desquamation and epidermal differentiation.
The presence of the selected compounds in the inventive product substantially improves the performance of a retinoid.
The inventive compositions contain, as a preferred ingredient, a retinoid, which is selected from retinyl esters, retinol, retinal and retinoic acid, preferably retinol or retinyl ester. The term “retinol” includes the following isomers of retinol: all-trans-retinol, 13-cis-retinol, 11-cis-retinol, 9-cis-retinol, 3,4-didehydro-retinol, 3,4-didehydro-13-cis-retinol; 3,4-didehydro-11-cis-retinol; 3,4-didehydro-9-cis-retinol. Preferred isomers are all-trans-retinol, 13-cis-retinol, 3,4-didehydro-retinol, 9-cis-retinol. Most preferred is all-trans-retinol, due to its wide commercial availability.
Retinyl ester is an ester of retinol. The term “retinol” has been defined above. Retinyl esters suitable for use in the present invention are C₁-C₃₀esters of retinol, preferably C₂-C₂₀esters, and most preferably C₂, C₃, and C₁₆esters because they are more commonly available. Examples of retinyl esters include but are not limited to: retinyl palmitate, retinyl formate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl butyrate, retinyl valerate, retinyl isovalerate, retinyl hexanoate, retinyl heptanoate, retinyl octanoate, retinyl nonanoate, retinyl decanoate, retinyl undecandate, retinyl laurate, retinyl tridecanoate, retinyl myristate, retinyl pentadecanoate, retinyl heptadeconoate, retinyl stearate, retinyl isostearate, retinyl nonadecanoate, retinyl arachidonate, retinyl behenate, retinyl linoleate, and retinyl oleate.
The preferred ester for use in the present invention is selected from retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl propionate, because these are the most commercially available and therefore the cheapest. Retinyl linoleate and retinyl oleate are also preferred due to their efficacy.
Retinol or retinyl ester is employed in the inventive composition in an amount of from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 1%, most preferably in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 0.5%.
The essential ingredient of the inventive compositions is a compound which passes in vitro Assays described below in sections 2.1 through to 2.7. A compound suitable for use in the present invention inhibits or enhances at a concentration listed in Table A an enzyme to at least a broad % listed in Table A.

Section A: Identification of Booster

TABLE A

Booster Test Concentration and % Inhibition/Increase

	Compound
Invention	Concentration	% Inhibition

ARAT/LRAT Assay (To identify B1 boosters)

Broad	100 μM	>10%
Preferred	100 μM	>25%
Most Preferred	100 μM	>40%
Optimum	100 μM	>50%

Retinol Dehydrogenase Assay (To identify B2 boosters)

Broad	100 μM	>10%
Preferred	100 μM	>15%
Most Preferred	100 μM	>20%
Optimum	100 μM	>25%

Retinal Reductase Assay (To identify B3 boosters)

Broad	100 μM	>5%
Preferred	100 μM	>10%
Most Preferred	100 μM	>20%
Optimum	100 μM	>35%

CRABPII Antagonist Assay (To identify B4 boosters)

Broad	7000:1	>25%
Preferred	7000:1	>50%
Most Preferred	70:1	>25%
Optimum	70:1	>50%

Retinoic Acid Oxidation Assay (To identify B5 boosters)

Broad	100 μM	>25%
Preferred	100 μM	>45%
Most Preferred	100 μM	>70%
Optimum	100 μM	>80%

The in vitro Microsomal Assays employed for determining the suitability of the inclusion of the compound in the inventive compositions are as follows:
1. Materials
All-trans-retinol, all-trans-retinoic acid, palmitoyl-CoA, dilauroyl phosphatidyl choline, NAD, and NADPH were purchased from Sigma Chemical Company. Stock solutions of retinoids for the microsomal assays were made up in HPLC grade acetonitrile. All retinoid standard stock solutions for HPLC analysis were prepared in ethanol, stored under atmosphere of N₂at −70° C. and maintained on ice under amber lighting when out of storage. Other chemicals and the inhibitors were commercially available from cosmetic material suppliers or chemical companies such as Aldrich or International Flavours and Fragrances.
2. Methods
2.1 Isolation of RPE Microsomes (Modified from (1))
50 frozen hemisected bovine eyecups, with the retina and aqueous humor removed were obtained from W. L. Lawson Co., Lincoln, Na., USA. The eyes were thawed overnight and the colored iridescent membrane was removed by peeling with forceps. Each eyecup was washed with 2×0.5 mL cold buffer (0.1M PO4/1 mM DTT/0.25M sucrose, pH 7) by rubbing the darkly pigmented cells with an artist's brush or a rubber policeman. The cell suspension was added to the iridescent membranes and the suspension was stirred for several minutes in a beaker with a Teflon stir bar. The suspension was filtered through a coarse filter (Spectra/Por 925μ pore size polyethylene mesh) to remove large particles, and the resulting darkly colored suspension was homogenized using a Glas-Col with a motor driven Teflon homogenizer.
The cell homogenate was centrifuged for 30 min. at 20,000 g (Sorvaal model RC-5B centrifuge with an SS34 rotor in 2.5×10 cm tubes at 14,000 RPM). The resulting supernatant was subjected to further centrifugation for 60 min. at 150,000 g (Beckman model L80 Ultracentrifuge with an SW50.1 rotor in 13×51 mm tubes at 40,000 RPM). The resulting pellets were dispersed into ˜5 mL 0.1 M PO₄/5 mM DTT, pH 7 buffer using a Heat Systems Ultrasonics, Inc. model W185D Sonifier Cell Disruptor, and the resulting microsomal dispersion was aliquoted into small tubes and stored at −70° C. The protein concentrations of the microsomes were determined using the BioRad Dye binding assay, using BSA as a standard.
2.2 Isolation of Rat Liver Microsomes (4)
Approximately 6 grams of frozen rat liver (obtained from Harlan Sprague Dawley rats from Accurate Chemical and Scientific Corp.) was homogenized in 3 volumes of 0.1 M tris/0.1 M KCl/1 mM EDTA/0.25M sucrose, pH 7.4 buffer using a Brinkmann Polytron. The resulting tissue suspension was further homogenized in the motor driven Teflon homogenizer described above. The resulting homogenate was successively centrifuged for 30 min. at 10,000 g, 30 min. at 20,000 g, and 15 min. at 30,000 g, and the resulting supernatant was ultra-centrifuged for 80 min. at 105,000 g. The pellet was sonicated in ˜5 mL of 0.1M PO4/0.1 mM EDTA/5 mM MgCl₂, pH 7.4 buffer as described above and stored as aliquots at −70° C. Protein concentrations were determined as described above.
2.3 Assay for ARAT and LRAT Activity (To Identify B1)
The procedure below was a modification of a method described in the literature (2). The following buffer was prepared and stored at 4° C.: 0.1M PO₄/5 mM dithiothreitol, pH 7.0 (PO₄/DTT). On the day of the assay, 2 mg BSA per mL of buffer was added to give a PO₄/DTT/BSA working buffer. 1 mM retinol substrate was prepared in acetonitrile and stored in amber bottles under nitrogen gas at −20° C. Solutions of 4 mM Palmitoyl-CoA in working buffer (stored in aliquots) and 4 mM dilauroyl phosphatidyl choline in ethanol were prepared and stored at −20° C. Inhibitors were prepared as 10 mM stock solutions in H₂O, ethanol, acetonitrile or DMSO. The quench solution was prepared using pure ethanol containing 50 μg/mL butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), and a hexane solution containing 50 μg/mL BHT was used for the extractions.
To a 2 dram glass vial, the following were added in order: PO_4/DTT/BSA buffer to give a total volume of 500 μL, 5 μL acyl donor (4 mM palmitoyl-CoA and/or dilauroyl phosphatidyl choline), 5 μL inhibitor or solvent blank (10 mM stock or further dilutions) followed by approximately 15 μg of RPE microsomal protein (approximately 15 μL of a ˜1 mg/mL microsomal protein aliquot). The mixture was incubated for 5 min. at 37° C. to equilibrate the reaction temperature and then 5 μL 1 mM retinol was added. The vials were capped, vortexed for 5 seconds and incubated for 30-90 minutes at 37° C. The reaction was quenched by adding 0.5 mL ethanol/BHT. The retinoids were extracted by adding 3 mL hexane/BHT, vortexing the tubes for several seconds several times and centrifuging the tubes at low speed for 5 min. to quickly separate the layers. The upper hexane layer was removed into a clean vial, and the aqueous layer re-extracted with another 3 mL hexane/BHT, as described above. The hexane layers were combined, and the hexane evaporated by drying at 37° C. under a stream of nitrogen gas on a heated aluminum block. The dried residue was stored at −20° C. until HPLC analysis. The amount of retinyl palmitate and retinyl laurate was quantitated for ARAT and LRAT activity, respectively, by integration of the HPLC signal as described below.
Note that the incubation solution contains 40 μM acyl donor, 100 μM or less inhibitor, 10 μM retinol, approximately 30 μg/mL microsomal protein, and nearly 0.1 M PO₄/pH 7/5 mM DTT/2 mg/mL BSA. All steps subsequent to the addition of retinol were done in the dark or under amber lights.
2.4 Assay for Retinol Dehydrogenase Activity (To Identify B2)
The following stock solutions were prepared:

- 50 mM KH2PO4, pH 7.4 buffer, sterile filtered.
- 10 mM all trans Retinol (Sigma R7632) in DMSO.
- 200 mM Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate, sodium salt (NADP) (Sigma N0505) in sterile water.
- 40 mM test compound in appropriate solvent (water, buffer, ethanol, chloroform or DMSO).
- 1:10 dilution of rat liver Microsomes in 50 mM KH2PO4, pH 7.4 buffer (4 μg/μl).

In a two-dram glass vial with screw cap, the following were added in order:
Buffer to give a final volume of 400 μl

- 25 μl diluted Microsomes (final=100 μg)-boiled Microsomes were used for controls and regular Microsomes for test samples.
- 4 μl of 200 mM NADP (final=2 mM)
- 1 μl of 40 mM test compound (final=100 μM)
- 8 μl of 10 mM retinol (final=200 μM)

The vials were incubated in a 37° C. shaking water bath for 45 minutes. 500 μl ice-cold ethanol was added to each vial to quench the reaction. The retinoids were extracted twice with ice cold hexane (2.7 ml per extraction). Retinyl acetate (5 μl of a 900 μM stock) was added to each vial during the first extraction as a means of monitoring the extraction efficiency in each sample. Samples were vortexed for ten seconds before gently centrifuging for five minutes at 1000 rpm, 5° C. in a Beckman GS-6R centrifuge. The top hexane layer containing the retinoids was removed from the aqueous layer after each extraction to a clean two-dram vial. The hexane was evaporated off under a gentle stream of nitrogen gas. The dried residue was then stored at −20° C. until HPLC analysis.
2.5 Assay for Retinal Reductase Activity (To Identify B3)
All stock solution were prepared as above with the following substitutions:
10 mM all trans Retinaldehyde (Sigma R2500) in DMSO-instead of retinol.
200 mM, Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate, reduced form, tetrasodium salt (NADPH) (Sigma N7505) in sterile water-instead of NADP.
In a two-dram glass vial with screw cap, add the following in order:

- Buffer to give a final volume of 400 μl
- 25 μl diluted Microsomes (final=100 μg)—use boiled Microsomes for controls and regular Microsomes for test samples.
- 4 μl of 200 mM NADPH (final=2 mM)
- 1 μl of 40 mM test compound (final=100 μM)
- 3 μl of 10 mM retinaldehyde (final=75 μM)

Follow the same incubation and extraction procedure as detailed above.
2.6 Assay for CRABPII Antagonists (To Identify B4)
2.6.1. Synthesis of CRABPII
a. System of Expression
The gene CRABPII was cloned in pET 29a-c(+) plasmid (Novagen). The cloned gene was under control of strong bacteriophage T7 transcription and translation signals. The source of T7 polymerase was provided by the host cell E.coli BLR(DE3)pLysS (Novagen). The latter has a chromosomal copy of T7 polymerase under lacUV5 control, induced by the presence of IPTG.
The plasmid was transferred into E. coli BLR(DE3)pLysS cells by transformation according to the manufacturer protocol (Novagen).
b. Induction
An overnight culture of the transformed cells was diluted 1:100 into 2×YT containing 50 μg/mL kanamycin and 25 μg/mL chloramphenicol. The cells grew while shaking at 37° C. until the OD at 600 nm reached 0.6-0.8. Then IPTG was added to a final concentration of 1 mM and the culture was incubated for an additional two hours. The cells were harvested by centrifugation at 5,000 g for 10 minutes at room temperature. The pellet was stored at −20° C.
2.6.2. Purification
Purification was performed according to the method described in Norris and Li, 1997.
a. Lysis
The frozen pellet was thawed at RT and resuspended in 1-2 pellet volumes of freshly prepared lysis buffer (50 mM Tris-HCl, pH 8, 10%(w/v) sucrose, 1 mM EDTA, 0.05%(w/v) sodium azide, 0.5 mM DTT, 10 mM MnCl2, 2.5 mM phenylmethylsulfonyl fluoride, 2.5 mM benzamidine, 6 μg/mL DNase). The lysate was incubated for 30 mins. at room temperature. Further lysis was accomplished by sonication (six 30-sec bursts at 10,000 psi alternated with five 30-sec delay on ice). The insoluble fraction of the lysate was removed by centrifugation at 15,000 rpm 1 hour at 4° C. and the supernatant is stored at −20° C.
b. Gel Filtration on Sephacryl S300
The supernatant from step a. was loaded onto a 2.5×100 cm column of sephacryl S-300 (Pharmacia) at room temperature. The elution buffer was 20 mM Tris-HCl, pH 8, 0.5 mM DTT, 0.05% sodium azide (buffer A). The flow rate was 2 mL/min. Collected 2-mL fractions were checked for ultraviolet absorbance at 280 nm. The fractions representing the peaks were examined by SDS-page for the presence of CRABPII.
c. Anion-exchange Chromatography
2 mL of gel filtration fractions containing CRABPII were loaded onto a quaternary amine anion-exchange column FPLC (Fast Protein Liquid Chromatography) type monoQ (Pharmacia). CRABPII was eluted using a gradient buffer from 100% buffer A to 30% buffer B (100% buffer B=buffer A+250 mM NaCl) over a 20-min period at room temperature. 1 mL-fractions were collected every minute. Once more, the presence of CRABPII was checked by SDS page. CRABPII was stored at 4° C. before freeze-drying using a Micromodulyo 1.5K with vial platform attachment (Edwards High Vacuum International). The desiccated samples were stored at room temperature until their use in the binding assay.
d. Detection of the Presence of CRABPII
The expression and purification of CRABPII was validated using denaturing SDS-polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE) analysis on a 7-15% polyacrylamide gel (Biorad). 10 μL samples were mixed with 10 μL of 2×loading buffer (100 mM Tris-HCl pH6.8, 4% SDS, 0.2% BPB, 20% glycerol, 1 mM DTT) and denatured by heating (2 mins. at 80° C.). The samples were loaded onto the gel that was immersed in a 1×Tris-glycine buffer (Biorad) and a constant current (25 mA) was applied for 1 hour at room temperature. After Coomassie blue staining, the protein was identified according to its molecular weight as determined with the Benchmark pre-stained protein ladder (Gibco BRL).
A western blot was used to confirm the presence of CRABPII. The proteins separated on the SDS-PAGE were transferred on an Immobilon-P transfer membrane (Millipore) using a Biorad cassette. The transfer occurred in 1×Tris-glycine buffer (Biorad)+10% methanol. An electrical currant (60 mA) was applied for 3 hours to allow the protein to migrate through the membrane. Afterwards, the membrane was blocked with 5% dry milk in 1× TBS for one hour at room temperature and probed with primary antibodies to CRABPII (1/1000 dilution of mouse anticlonal 5-CRA-B3) in the same buffer at 4° C. overnight. The following day, the membrane was washed with PBS (3×5 minutes) and then incubated with 1:2000 dilution of the secondary antibody, peroxidase conjugated anti-mouse antibody (ECLTM, Amersham), for 1 hour at room temperature. The membrane was washed with 1×PBS (3×5 minutes) and the protein was detected using ECL detection kit according to the manufacturer instruction (Amersham).
The concentration of purified CRABPII was determined using BSA kit (Pierce).
2.6.3. Radioactive Binding Assay
220 pmol of CRABPII was incubated in 20 mM Tris-HCl buffer pH 7.4 with 15 pmol of radioactive all trans retinoic acid (NEN) in a total volume of 70 μL. For the competitive assay, another ligand in excess (6670:1, 670:1 or 70:1) was added to the mix. The reaction occurred for one hour at room temperature in the dark. In order to separate the unbound all-trans retinoic acid from the bound all-trans retinoic acid, a 6 kD cut-off minichromatography column (Biorad) was used. The storage buffer was discarded using a Microplex manifold for according to the manufacturer instruction (Pharmacia). The samples were loaded onto the column and the separation occurred by gravity over a 30-min period. Retinoic acid (“RA”) bound to CRABPII appeared in the filtrate while free RA remained in the column. The radioactivity of the filtrate was measured by scintillation counter.
2.7 Assay for NADPH Dependent Retinoic Acid Oxidation (To Identify B5)
The procedure below is a modification of a method described in the literature (4). The following assay buffer was prepared and stored at 4° C.: 0.1 M PO₄/0.1 mM EDTA/5 mM MgCl₂, pH 7.4. On the day of the assay, a 60 mM NADPH solution in buffer was prepared. Inhibitor stocks, acidified ethanol/BHT quench solution, and hexane/BHT were prepared as described above. A working 1 mM retinoic acid solution was prepared by dilution of a 15 mM stock (in DMSO) with ethanol.
To a 2 dram vial, the following were added in order: assay buffer to give a final volume of 500 μL, 20 μL 60 mM NADPH, 5 μL inhibitor or solvent blank, followed by approximately 2 mg of rat liver microsomal protein.
The mixture was incubated for 5 mins. at 37° C., then 5 μL working 1 mM retinoic acid solution was added. Incubation was continued for 60 mins. at 37° C.—the vials were not capped, since the oxidation process required molecular O₂in addition to NADPH. Quenching was carried out with acidified ethanol/BHT and extraction was carried out with hexane/BHT as described above. Quantitation of the quickly eluting polar retinoic acid metabolites (presumed td be 4-oxo retinoic acid) was carried out by integration of the HPLC signal as described below.
All steps subsequent to the addition of retinoic acid were done in the dark or under amber lights. The final incubation solution contained 2.4 mM NADPH, 100 μM or less inhibitor, 10 μM retinoic acid, approximately 4 mg/mL rat liver microsomal protein and nearly 0.1M PO₄/0.1 mM EDTA/5 mM MgCl₂.
HPLC Analysis of Individual Retinoids
Samples for retinoid quantitation by HPLC were prepared by dissolving the residue in each vial with 100 μL of methanol. The solution was transferred to a 150 μL glass conical tube within a 1 mL shell vial, capped tightly, and placed inside a Waters 715 Autosampler. Aliquots of 60 μL were injected immediately and analysed for retinoid content.
The chromatography instrumentation consisted of a Waters 600 gradient controller/pump, a Waters 996 Photodiode Array detector and a Waters 474 Scanning Fluorescence detector. Two HPLC protocols were used for retinoid analysis. For the ARAT and LRAT assay, the separation of retinol and retinol esters was performed with a Waters 3.9×300 mm C18 Novapak reverse-phase analytical column and Waters Sentry NovaPak C18 guard column with an 80:20(v/v) methanol/THF isocratic mobile phase adjusted to a flow rate of 1 mL/min. for 10 min. The eluate was monitored for absorbance at 325 nm and fluorescence at 325 ex/480 cm.
A shorter Waters 3.9×150 mm C18 Novapak reverse-phase analytical column and Waters Sentry NovaPak C18 guard column were used to separate retinoid acids and alcohols for the retinol and retinoic acid oxidation assays utilising a modification of a gradient system described by Barua (5). This system consisted of a 20 mins. linear gradient from 68:32(v/v) methanol/water containing 10 mM ammonium acetate to 4:1(v/v) methanol:dichloromethane followed by a 5 mins. hold at a flow rate of 1 mL/min. The column eluate was monitored from 300 nm to 400 nm.
These protocols were selected based on their ability to clearly resolve pertinent retinoid acids, alcohols, aldehydes, and/or esters for each assay and relative quickness of separation. Identification of individual retinoids by HPLC was based on an exact match of the retention time of unknown peaks with that of available authentic retinoid standards and UV spectra analysis (300-400 nm) of unknown peaks against available authentic retinoids.

REFERENCES

1 J. C. Saari & D. L. Bredberg, “CoA and Non-CoA Dependent Retinol Esterification in Retinal Pigment Epithelium”, J. Bill. Chem. 263, 8084-8090 (1988).
2 J. C. Saari & D. L. Bredberg, “ARAT & LRAT Activities of Bovine Retinal Pigment Epithelial Microsomes”, Methods Enzymol. 190, 156-163 (1990).
3 J. L. Napoli & K. R. Race, “The Biosynthesis of Retinoic Acid from Retinol by Rat Tissues in vitro”, Archives Biochem. Biophys. 255, 95-101 (1987).
4 R. Martini & M. Murray, “Participation of P450 3A Enzymes in Rat Hepatic Microsomal Retinoic Acid 4-Hydroxylation”, Archives Biochem. Biophys. 303, 57-66 (1993).
5 A. B. Barua, “Analysis of Water-Soluble Compounds: Glucuronides”, Methods Enzymol. 189, 136-145 (1990).

The boosters suitable for use in the present invention include but are not limited to the boosters listed in Tables B₁through to B₅below. The table below gives the booster class (B₁-B₅), the chemical name of the compound, and the results from the appropriate assays used to identify the booster (i.e. ARAT/LRAT for B1, retinol dehydrogenase for B₂, retinaldehyde inhibation for B3, CRABP is binding for B₄and retinoic acid oxidation inhibition for B_5.

ARAT/LRAT Inhibitors (B1)

		% Inhibition			% Inhibition	% Inhibition	% Inhibition
		Overall	Overall	% Inhibition	ARAT	LRAT	LRAT
Class	Compound	T(-ROH/RE)	TG (IC 50)	ARAT(10 jm)	(100 jm)	(10 jm)	(100 jm)

Carotenoid	Crocetin		3.75E−05	15%	34%	0	15%
Fatty Acid & Other	Acetyl Sphingosine		6.78E−06	19% +/− 12	62% +/− 11	10% +/− 10	50% +/− 18
Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	C13 Beta-Hydroxy Acid/	17%			28%		25%
Other Surfactants	Amide
Fatty Acid Amides &	Castor Oil MEA		3.25E−05
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Cocamidopropyl Betaine				25%
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Coco Hydroxyethyl-		2.84E−07		68%		65%
Other Surfactants	imidazoline
Fatty Acid Amides &	Cocoamide-MEA (or	11%			13%		34%
Other Surfactants	Cocoyl Monoethanol-
	amide)
Fatty Acid Amides &	Glycerol-PCA-Oleate				41% +/− 6		58% +/− 2
Other Surfactans
Fatty Acid Amides &	Hexanoamide				20%
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Hexanoyl Sphingosine		9.99E−05		28% +/− 4		37% +/− 9
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Hydroxyethyl-2-		3.29E−05		35%		35%
Other Surfactants	Hydroxy-C12 Amide
Fatty Acid Amides &	Hydroxyethyl-2-				25%		30%
Other Surfactants	Hydroxy-C16 Amide
Fatty Acid Amides &	Lauroyl Sarcosine				20%
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Lidocaine				12%		0
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Linoleamide-DEA (or	59%		12% +/− 3	43% +/− 3	11% +/− 9	51% +/− 15
Other Surfactants	Linoleoyl
	Diethanolamide)
Fatty Acid Amides &	Linoleamide-MEA (or		1.61E−05	14%	35%	20% +/− 8	35%
Other Surfactants	Linoleoyl Monoethanol-
	amide)
Fatty Acid Amides &	Linoleamidopropyl				69% +/− 18		75% +/− 4
Other Surfactants	Dimethylamine
Fatty Acid Amides &	Melinamide				64% +/− 15		43% +/− 21
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Myristoyl Sarcosine				41% +/− 14		11% +/− 11
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Oleyl Betaine		2.80E−05		47%
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Palmitamide-MEA			6%	23%	12%	33%
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Stearylhydroxyamide				10%		10%
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Utrecht-1	21%		43%	54%	51%	48% +/− 6
Other Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides &	Utrecht-2		3.47E−06	42%	83% +/− 9	51%	92% +/− 3
Other Surfactants
Flavanoids	Naringenin				33%		14%
Fragrances	Allyl Alpha-Ionone			16% +/− 14	22% +/− 23	17% +/− 10	36%/−7
Fragrances	Alpha-Damascone		3.35E−04	67% +/− 27	83% +/− 12	87% +/− 6	98% +/− 1
Fragrances	Alpha-Ionone		9.27E−04		45% +/− 27		49% +/− 30
Fragrances	Alpha-Methyl Ionone				67%		77%
Fragrances	Alpha-Terpineol				26%		25%
Fragrances	Beta-Damascone			45%	84%	52%	92%
Fragrances	Brahmanol				70%		75%
Fragrances	Damascenone			23%	70%	29%	79%
Fragrances	Delta-Damascone			58%	87%	64%	95%
Fragrances	Dihydro Alpha-Ionone				13%		18%
Fragrances	Ethyl Saffranate				51%		49%
Fragrances	Fenchyl Alcohol				12%		4%
Fragrances	Gamma-Methyl Ionone				21%		38%
Fragrances	Isobutyl Ionone				8%		45%
Fragrances	Isocyclogeraniol				18%		16%
Fragrances	Isodamascone				80%		92%
Fragrances	Lyral		1.27E−04		76%		71%
Fragrances	Santalone				23%		12%
Fragrances	Santanol				15%		43%
Fragrances	Timberol				34%		33%
Fragrances	Tonalid				50%		33%
Fragrances	Traseolide				41%		21%
Miscellaneous	Coco Trimethyl-				27%
	ammonium Cl-
Miscellaneous	Urosolic Acid		1.46E−06		21%		28%
Noncyclic	Citral				20%
Fragrances
Noncyclic	Citronellol				30%		0
Fragrances
Noncyclic	Farnesol		9.35E−05	23% +/− 18	53% +/− 18	10% +/− 7	53% +/− 19
Fragrances
Noncyclic	Geraniol		7.83E−03	13%	32%
Fragrances
Noncyclic	Geranyl Geraniol			38% +/− 12	81% +/− 6	16% +/− 9	77% +/− 13
Fragrances
Noncyclic	Linalool				28%		0
Fragrances
Noncyclic	Nonadieneal				20%
Fragrances
Noncyclic	Pseudoionone				12%		37%
Fragrances
Phospholipid	Dioctylphosphatidyl			23%	50% +/− 2	0	17% +/− 17
	Ethanolamine
Urea	Dimethyl	22%
	Imidazolidinone
Urea	Imidazolidinyl Urea	35%

Retinol Dehydrogenase Activators (B2)

Class	Compound	% Increase Retinol Dehydrogenase

Phospholipic	Phosphatidyl Choline	21% increase
Phospholipid	Sphingomyelin	26% increase

Retinaldehyde Reductase Inhibitors (B3)

			% Inhibition
		Overall	Retinal
Class	Compound	TG (IC 50)	Reductase

Aldehyde	Vanillin	9.70E−03	6%
Fatty Acid	Arachidic Acid		20%
Fatty Acid	Arachidonic Acid		49%
Fatty Acid	Linoleic Acid	1.63E−04	62% ± 2
Fatty Acid	Linolenic Acid	1.34E−04	54% ± 16
Fatty Acid	Myristic Acid	1.72E−05	26%
Miscellaneous	Amsacrine	6.26E−06	22% ± 8
Miscellaneous	Carbenoxolone	3.61E−07	26% ± 2
Miscellaneous	Glycyrretinic Acid	8.64E−06	38% ± 1
Phospholipid	Phosphatidyl ethanolamine		37%

CRABPII Antagonists (B4)

		Overall	% Inhibition
Class	Compound	TG(IC 50)	CRABPII

Fatty Acid	Elaidic Acid	6.50E−05	>50%
Fatty Acid	Hexadecanedioic Acid	1.30E−04	>50%
Fatty Acid	12-Hydroxystearic Acid	2.91E−05	>50%
Fatty Acid	Isostearic Acid	6.88E−05	>50%
Fatty Acids	Linseed Oil		>50%

Retinoic Acid Oxidation Inhibitors (B5)

			% Inhibition	% Inhibition
		Overall	Retinoic	Retinoic
Class	Compound	TG(IC 50)	Acid (10 μM)	Acid(100 μM)

Imidazole	Bifonazole		89%	100%
Imidazole	Climbazole	4.47E−06	80%	92%
Imidazole	Clotrimazole		76%	85%
Imidazole	Econazole		88%	100%
Imidazole	Ketoconazole	1.85E−07	84%	84%
Imidazole	Miconazole	2.78E−07	74%	86%
Fatty Acid Amides & Other	Lauryl Hydroxyethylimidazoline	4.67E−07
Surfactants
Fatty Acid Amides & Other	Oleyl Hydroxyethylimidazoline	3.02E−05	54%	80%
Surfactants
Flavanoids	Quercetin	6.29E−05	40%	74%
Coumarin	Coumarin
Quinoline	(7H-Benzimidazo (2,1-a)Benz	8.59E−07
	[de]-Isoquinolin-7-one
Quinoline	Hydroxyquinoline (Carbostyril)	3.64E−04
Quinoline	Metyrapone (2-Methyl-1,2-di-3-			47%
	Pyridyl-1-Propane)

SECTION B. Effects Of Booster Combinations
In order to assess the effect of combinations of booster molecules an assay is required which encompasses the effect of each of the five booster classes. A single enzyme assay is not suitable for this purpose, as it will be specific only for one class of booster molecule. An assay which reflects retinoid concentration in keratinocytes is necessary to relate the effects of single booster molecules with combination of booster molecules. For this reason, a transglutaminase (Tgase) assay was utilised. Tgases are calcium dependent enzymes that catalyse the formation of covalent cross-links in proteins. Several Tgase enzymes are membrane bound in keratinocytes which is important for epidermal cell maturation. This enzyme is inhibited by retinoic acid. The higher the concentration of retinoic acid, the greater the inhibition of Tgase expression. Hence Tgase is a good marker of both keratinocyte differentiation and of the retinoid effect on keratinocytes.
Transglutaminase as a Marker of Skin Differentiation
During the process of terminal differentiation in the epidermis, a 15 nm thick layer of protein, known as the cornified envelope (CE) is formed on the inner surface of the cell periphery. The CE is composed of numerous distinct proteins which have been cross-linked together by the formation of NΣ-(γ-glutamyl) lysine isodipeptide bonds catalysed by the action of at least two different transglutaminases (TGases) expressed in the epidermis. TGase I is expressed in abundance in the differentiated layers of the epidermis, especially the granular layer, but is absent in the undifferentiated basal epidermis. Thus TGase I is a useful marker of epidermal keratinocyte differentiation with high TGase I levels indicating a more differentiated state. An ELISA based TGase I assay, using a TGase I antibody, was used to assess the state of differentiation of the cultured keratinocytes in the examples that follow.
Keratinocytes (cultured as described above) were plated in 96 well plates at a density of 4,000-5,000 cells per well in 200 μl media. After incubation for two to three days, or until cells are ˜50% confluent, the media was changed to media containing test compounds (five replicates per test). The cells were cultured for a further 96 hours after which time the media was aspirated and the plates stored at −70° C. Plates were removed from the freezer, and the cells were washed twice with 200 μl of 1×PBS. The cells were incubated for one hour at room temperature (R/T) with TBS/5% BSA (wash buffer, bovine serum albumin). Next the TGase primary antibody was added: 50 μl of monoclonal anti-Tgase I Ab B.C. diluted 1:2000 in wash buffer. The primary antibody was incubated for 2 hours at 37° C. and then rinsed 6× with wash buffer. Cells were then incubated with 50μl of secondary antibody (Fab fragment, peroxidase conjugated anti-mouse IgG obtaining from Amersham) diluted 1:4,000 in wash buffer for two hours at 37° C., then rinsed three times with wash buffer. Following the rinse with washing buffer, the cells were rinsed 3× with PBS. For colourimetric development, the cells were incubated with 100 μl substrate solution (4 mg o-phenylenediamine and 3.3 μl 30% H₂O₂in 10 ml 0.1 M citrate buffer pH 5.0) for exactly five minutes, R/T, in darkness (under aluminum foil). The reaction was stopped by the addition of 50 μl 4 N H₂SO₄. The absorbance of samples was read at 492 nm in a 96 well plate UV spectrophotometer. Out of the five replicates, four were treated with both antibodies, the fifth one was use as a Tgase background control. TGase levels were determined and expressed as percentage control.
Details of of Tgase Assay
Prior to initiating experiments, to determine the effects of combinations of booster molecules standard Tgase assay conditions were investigated. A fully validated Tgase assay was established as follows:
A. Reagents


	Cells: Human Keratinocytes	Neonatal Human foreskin
	(P2 in T75 flasks; P3 in 96
	well assay plates)
	Primary Antibody: TGm	Biogenesis (Cat# 5560-
	specific monoclonal Ab B.Cl	6006)
	Secondary Ab: Peroxidase	Amersham (Cat # NA9310)
	labeled antimouse Ig F(ab)2
	Substrate solution: For 10 ml
	phosphate citrate buffer
	4.0 mg o-phenylenediamine	Sigma P-7288
	3.3 μl of 30% H₂0₂	Sigma H-1909

B. Media/Buffers


Keratinocyte Growth Media (KGM)	Clonetics (Cat# 3111)
Phosphate Buffered Saline;
Dulbecca's without Ca/MgCl₂)	Life Technology
	(Cat # 14200-075 )
Tris Buffered Saline
Blocking buffer (1xTES + 5%	BioRad (Cat #170-6404)
dry milk)
Washing buffer (1% dry milk in	Sigma (Cat # P-7949)
TBS + 0.05% Tween 20)
Phosphate citrate buffer: 1:1	Sigma (Cat # S-9763)
mixture of 0.2M dibasic	Sigma (Cat # C-1909)
sodium phosphate and 0.1M
citric acid
4N H₂SO₄

C. Culture Ware


	96-well polypropylene microtitre	Costar (Cat # 3595)
	plate
	96-well polypropylene U-bottom	Costar (Cat # 3794)
	plate
	T75-vent cap	Costar (Cat # 3376)

D: Instrumentation/Equipment


	Biotek Model EL 340 Microplate	Bio-tex Instruments Inc.
	reader	Packard
	Multiprobe II

E: Cell Culture Procedure
Seeding of Keratinocytes in 96 Well Plates

- 1. A suspension of keratinocytes was prepared at a concentration of 3000 cells/200 μl/well in KGM medium (Used 3×10⁵cells/12 ml media in each microtitre plate)
- 2. 200 μl of the keratinocyte suspension was transferred into each of the inner 60 wells only.
- 3. 200 μl of KGM media was pipetted into the outer wells (to maintain thermal equilibrium).
- 4. Each plate was incubated at 37° C. and 5% CO₂for 3 days or until cells are ˜50% confluent.

Treatment of Keratinocytes with Samples

- 5. Stock solutions of the samples were prepared in DMSO.
- 6. The samples were diluted to desired concentration with the final assay concentration of DMSO being 0.1%.
- 7. 20 μl of the sample was transferred into wells and 180 μl of KGM medium added to give a final assay volume of 200 μl.
- 8. Plates were incubated at 37° C. and 5% CO₂for 72 hours.
- 9. Media were completely removed from each well.
- 10. Wells were rinsed with 2× with 200 μl of 1×PBS
- 11. Finally they were frozen for at least 1.5 hours at −70° C.

F: Transglutaminase Assay

- 1. Block:
  - Incubate plates at room temperature with 200 μl/well of blocking buffer for 1 hour.
- 2. Primary Antibody:
  - Aspirate blocking buffer. Incubated with 100 μl/well of TGm-specific monoclonal antibody B.Cl (diluted 1:2000 in washing buffer) at 37° C. for at least 2 hours. The primary antibody was not added in background control wells.
- 3. Rinsed wells 6× with washing buffer.
- 4. Secondary Antibody:
  - Incubated with 100 μl/well peroxidase labeled anti-mouse IgF(ab)2 fragment (diluted 1:4000 in washing buffer) at 37° C. for 2 hours.
- 5. Rinsed wells 3× with washing buffer (added 200 μl) and aspirated after each rinse.
- 6. Rinsed wells 3× with PBS w/o Tween.
- 7. Incubated with 100 μl/well substrate solution at room temperature for exactly 5 minutes.
- 8. Stopped reaction with 50 μl/well 4 N H₂SO₄.
- 9. Read absorbance at 492 nm in the Bio-tek plate reader.

I. Optimization Studies
a. Time Course of Transglutaminase Production
A time course experiment was conducted to determine the optimal incubation time for transglutaminase production in keratinocytes grown in 96-well plates (4000 cells/well). This time course study was conducted with multiple variables including dose response analyses of retinoic acid and retinol as well as incubation in the presence of 1.2 mM CaCl₂. Although the transglutaminase production in the control cells (0.1% DMSO) was not altered, both retinoic acid and retinol exhibited a dose dependent inhibition of transglutaminase production over the five day incubation period. The most pronounced retinoid effect was observed on day 2 and day 3. The maximal inhibition was observed on day 2 with the transglutaminase production being inhibited by 85% and 55% in the presence of the highest concentration (1 μM) of retinoic acid and retinol respectively. The same experiment was also conducted with varying cell density (3000 cells/well and 5000 cells/well) and comparable results were observed.
B: DMSO Sensitivity
Various concentrations of DMSO ranging from 0-2% were tested for the effect on transglutaminase production in keratinocytes. The assay was sensitive to DMSO concentration with significant inhibition of activity, above 0.5% DMSO. Hence, a final assay concentration of 0.1% was selected for subsequent sample concentration studies.
C: Dose Response Curves: Retinoic Acid and Retinol
Based on the data, day 3 was selected as the optimal time and 0.1% DMSO was selected as the concentration to be used for further testing. An additional dose response experiment was carried out with retinoic acid and retinol in the presence of 0.1% DMSO, with the transglutaminase production being assayed on day 3. A good dose response was observed for Tgase inhibition by retinoic acid and retinol. 10-7 M retinol gave an inhibition of Tgase in the linear range of concentration. Therefore, this concentration of retinol was chosen to evaluate the booster combinations.
D: Final Conditions Used to Test Boosters or Combination of Boosters

- Days of incubation of keratinocytes with
- retinol and boosters—3 days
- Final DMSO cncentration—Less than 0.1%
- Ratinol concentration—10-7 M (0.1 μM)
- Booster concentrations—10 mM to 0.1 nM

Using the above conditions, dose response for all the different boosters (B1-B5) were tested to identify the best concentration of booster to test in combinations.
Transglutaminase levels were determined and expressed in the Tables B1 through B5 either as:
(i) % (booster+retinol inhibition/control inhibition)−% (ROH inhibition/control inhibition), which measures the added effect of booster+retinol induced TGase inhibition over retinol alone, or
(ii) as an IC50 value when the inhibitory effect of multiple booster concentrations was examined-this provides the concentration of booster which, in combination with a constant retinol concentration of 10⁻⁷M, inhibits TGase by 50%.
Booster Combinations and Booster Ratios:
It has been discovered surprisingly that certain compounds increase the endogenous levels of retinoic acid formation from retinol or retinyl esters by different mechanisms. These compounds are collectively called here as “retinoid boosters”. These include: inhibitors of ARAT/LRAT (B1 boosters), inhibitors of retinaldehyde reductase (B3 boosters), inhibitors of retinoic acid binding to CRABP-2 (B4 boosters) and inhibitors of retinoic acid oxidation catalysed by cytochrome P450 enzymes (B5 boosters), or certain other compounds which enhance or activate retinol dehydrogenase (B2 boosters). These boosters are coded as groups B1 through to B5, as seen in chart 1 herein above.
The boosters alone or in combination with each other, potentiate the action of a retinoid by increasing the amount of retinol available for conversion to retinoic acid and inhibiting the degradation of retinoic acid. The boosters act in conjunction with a retinoid (e.g. retinol, retinyl ester, retinal, retinoic acid) the latter being present endogenously in the skin. The preferred compositions, however, include a retinoid in the composition, co-present with a booster, to optimise performance.
The present invention includes, in part, a second composition containing from about 0.0001% to about 50%, preferably from 0.001% to 10%, most preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight of the composition of at least one booster compound, or a combination of binary, tertiary, quaternary or 5 booster combinations. The combined concentration of the booster combinations of 0.001% to 5% in specified ratios as shown below, inhibit transglutaminase in an in vitro transglutaminase assay to more than 50%, and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
The boosters included in the inventive compositions are selected from the group consisting of:

- a. Two boosters, wherein both are selected from the group consisting of B2, B3 and B4;
- b. Binary combinations of boosters selected from the group consisting of B1/B2; B1/B3, B1/B4; B1/B5; B2/B3, B2/B4; B2/B5; B3/B4, B3/B5; B4/B5
- c. Ternary combinations of boosters selected from the group consisting of B1/B2/B3;B1/B2/B4; B1/B2/B5; B1/B3/B4;B1/B3/B5; B1/B4/B5; B2/B3/B4; B2/B3/B5; B2/B4/B5;B3/B4/B5
- d. Quaternary combinations of boosters selected from the group consisting of B1/B2/B3/B4; B1/B2/B3/B5; B1/B2/B4/B5; B1/B3/B4/B5; B2/B3/B4/B5; and
- e. A combination of five groups of boosters B1/B2/B3/B4/B5.

Booster to Booster Ratios
The boosters of different classes (B1 to B5) in combinations as shown above have an optimal concentration of between 0.001% to 5% in a cosmetic product at specific ratios as shown below for inhibition of Tgase activity to at least below 50%:


Invention	Ratios of boosters to boosters	Concentrations

Broad	1:10,000 to 10,000:1	100 mM to 1 nM
Preferred	1:1000 to 1000:1	10 mM to 10 nM
Most preferred	1:100 to 100:1	1 mM to 100 nM
Optimum	1:10 to 10:1	0.1 mM to 1 μM

Retinoid to Booster Ratios:
The preferred composition includes a retinoid (e.g.retinol, retinyl ester, and retinaldehyde) in the composition, co-present with a booster or a combination of the boosters, to optimise performance.
For optimum performance, the concentration of retinoid to booster should be present in the composition in ratios as given below:


	Ratios of boosters
Invention	to retinoids	Concentrations

Broad	10,000:1 to 1:10,000	100 mM-1 nM booster; 0.001-10%
		retinoids
Preferred	1000:1 to 1:1000	10 mM-10 nM booster; 0.001-10%
		retinoid
Most preferred	100:1 to 1:100	1 mM-100 nM booster; 0.01-1%
		retinoids

Concentrations of Individual Boosters Used in the Examples:
Since the objective is to establish synergistic inhibition of transglutaminase expression by combinations of the active compounds with retinol, it was essential to determine the dose response profiles (IC₂₀and IC₅₀values) of the active compounds, when tested individually in the presence of retinol. The detailed dose response of boosters belonging to B2-B4 is given in the tables following the IC50 and IC 20 table below. This data was used to identify an appropriate sub-maximal inhibitory concentration of each active compound, to eventually make it possible to identify putative synergistic effects of the mixtures of the active compounds in the presence of retinol. The data in the following table represents the IC₅₀and IC₂₀(80% of control) values and the concentrations used when testing synergies with combinations of boosters.
In order to demonstrate synergy of two compounds, it is essential to select concentrations to test that are at most IC20, in other words, a compound concentration that individually boosts the retinol inhibition of Tgase expression by 20%. Two such compounds should have an additive inhibition of 40%. Using this strategy to determine concentrations leaves a window of 40-100% for further inhibition for detecting synergy of the two compounds under examination.
A more challenging concentration criterion would be selecting concentrations of compounds which alone showed no inhibition effect, but in combination show inhibition. In this study however, we chose an even more challenging criteria. We selected concentrations of compounds that were 10 to 1000 fold lower than the minimally effective Tgase inhibiting concentration. Identification of synergistic combinations using such very low concentrations would mean that the most effective synergistic combinations were identified.


				Con. Used for
				synergy
Boost-				(binary,
er				tertiary,
Class	Compound Name	IC₅₀	IC₂₀	quaternary)

B1	Linoleoyl-	1.61E−	1.48E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Monoethanolamide	05
	(LAMEA)
	Palmitamide	ND	ND	1E−06 to 1E−10
	Monoethanolamide
	Oleyl Betaine	2.80E−	1.08E−05	1E−05 to 1E−8
		05
	Naringenin	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Echinacea	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Dimethyl imidazolinone	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Melinamide	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Geranyl geraniol	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Farnesol	9.35E−	7.82E−05	1E−06 to 1E−09
		05
	Geraniol	7.83E−	4.72E−03	1E−03 to 1E−07
		03
	α-Damascone	3.35E−	1.69E−04	1E−04 to 1E−08
		04
	α-Ionone	9.27E−	1.42E−04	1E−04 to 1E−08
		04
	Castor oil Methyl Ester	3.25E−	9.38−E06	1E−06 to 1E−09
	Acid (MEA)	05
	Ursolic Acid	1.46E−	5.94−E07	1E−06 to 1E−09
		06
	Utrecht-2	3.47E−	3.30−E06	1E−06 to 1E−09
		06
	Cocoyl	2.84E−	9.21E−08	1E−08 to 1E−11
	hydroxyethylimidazoline	07
	Acetyl sphingosine	6.78E−	5.15E−06	1E−06 to 1E−09
	(C2 Ceramide)	06
	Hexanoyl sphingosine	9.99E−	6.94E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
	(C6 Ceramide)	05
	Crocetin	3.75E−	2.52E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
		05
	Lyrial	1.27E−	4.00E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
		04
	N-Hydroxyethyl-2-	3.29E−	2.40E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
	hydroxydodecyl amide	05
B2	Phosphatidyl Choline	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Sphingomyelin	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	TCC	9.64E−	6.18−E07	1E−07 to 1E−10
		07
	1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	glycero-3-
	phosphoethanolamide
B3	Amsacrine-HCL	6.26E−	3.30E−06	1E−06 to 1E−09
		06
	Carbenoxolone	3.61E−	2.00E−07	1E−07 to 1E−10
		07
	Glycyrrhetinic Acid	8.64E−	5.96E−06	1E−06 to 1E−09
		06
	Linoleic Acid	1.63E−	8.95E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
		04
	Linolenic Acid	1.34E−	1.21E−04	1E−05 to 1E−09
		04
	Arachidonic Acid	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	(Na+ salt)
	Myristic Acid	1.72E−	1.05E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
		05
	Vanilin	9.70E−	8.47E−03	1E−03 to 1E−06
		03
B4	Hexadecanedioic acid	1.30E−	8.40E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
		04
	12-Hydroxystearic acid	2.91E−	1.45E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
		05
	Elaidic acid	6.50E−	5.88E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
		05
	Linseed oil	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Isostearic acid	6.88E−	6.23E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
		05
	2-Hydroxystearic acid	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
B5	Climbazole	4.47E−	2.45E−07	1E−07 to 1E−10
		06
	Clotrimazole	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Miconazole	2.78E−	8.42E−08	1E−08 to 1E−11
		07
	Coumarin	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Ketoconazole	1.85E−	5.52E−08	1E−08 to 1E−11
		07
	3,4,-Dihydro-2(1H)-	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	quinolinone
	(Hydrocarbostyril)
	2-	3.64E−	1.70E−04	1E−04 to 1E−08
	Hydroxyquinoline	04
	(Carbostyril)
	Amino Benzotriazole	ND	ND	1E−05 to 1E−09
	Lauryl	4.67E−	2.69E−07	1E−07 to 1E−10
	hydroxyethylimidazoline	07
	Quercetin	6.29E−	5.11E−05	1E−05 to 1E−09
		05
	Oleoyl	3.02E−	5.65E−06	1E−06 to 1E−09
	hydroxyethlimidazoline	05
	7H-Benzimidazo(2,1-	8.59E−	4.69E−07	1E−07 to 1E−09
	a]Benz(de)-isoquinolin-	07
	7-one

ND: Not determined or a clear dose response was not observed. For synergies, a wide range of concentration (4 orders of magnitude 10-5 to 10-9 M) was tested.
Dose Response for Boosters Class B2 to B4
The following tables include the data on the dose response of boosters belonging to class B2 to B4. Concentration of boosters are given in Molar; mean Tgase level and Standard deviation of 4 replicates is expressed as % of control (0.1% DMSO and 10-7 M retinol). Higher numbers (close to 100 or above 100) indicate no inhibition of Tgase. The lower the number, the more potent the inhibitor is at that concentration. The IC50 and IC20 values were calculated from this dose response table and expressed in the above table.

B2 Class Boosters:

Phosphatidyl choline (B2)

	Tgase levels
Concentration	(Mean)	Tgase (SD)

4.4E−05	90.9	0.01
1.47E−05	120.3	10.6
4.89E−06	70.1	11.4
1.63E−06	98.8	0.00
5.43E−07	86.7	6.19
1.8E−07	75.9	20.5
6.0E−08	87.8	3.9
1.2E−08	159	42.3
2.4E−09	85.5	0.39

Sphingomyelin (B2)

	Tgase levels
Concentration	(Mean)	Tgase (SD)

3.0E−05	45	3.21
1.0E−05	77.8	25.5
3.33E−06	76.4	7.55
1.1E−06	98.8	0.00
3.73E−07	91.6	14.9
1.23E−07	70.0	3.63
4.10E−08	74.6	4.19
8.2E−08	115.2	1.02
1.65E−09	68.4	2.03
3.29E−10	69.2	2.1

TCC (B2)

	Tgase levels
Concentration	(Mean)	Tgase (SD)

1.14E−03	36.3	4.6
3.8E−04	3.8	0.96
3.31.23E−04	−3.2	0.91
4.22E−05	−11.2	0
1.41E−06	−.3	4.88
4.69E−07	15.9	3.52
6.26E−08	18.9	3.12
1.25E−08	100.2	23.3
6.9E−09	77.6	21.2
1.0E−09	54.4	11.23

1,2 dioctanoyl-sn-glycero-3-phopshoethanolamide (B2)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

1.6E−04	58.1	2.08
5.33E−05	95.4	21.3
1.78E−05	104	4.01
5.93E−06	128	0.0
1.98E−06	110	8.74
6.58E−07	92.8	15.78
2.19E−09	88.6	12.3
4.39E−08	127.3	3.39
8.78E−09	119	21.1
1.79E−9	82	15.6

B3 Class Boosters Amscrine B3

Amscrine B3

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

3.0E−05	−10	3.29
1.0E−05	1.8	7.45
3.33E−06	64	4.2
1.1E−06	84	0
3.73E−07	109	6.2
1.23E−07	65	15.8
4.10E−08	110	10.5
8.2E−08	131	27
1.65E−09	113	18
3.29E−10	92	8.9

Carbenoxolone (B3)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

3.0E−06	−7.1	0
1.0E−06	27.3	1.15
3.33E−07	51.7	0
1.1E−07	158	0
3.73E−08	126	4.67
1.23E−08	81	29
4.10E−09	135	6.88
8.2E−10	112	32
1.65E−10	77.8	10.6
3.29E−11	64	49

Glyrrhetinic acid (B3)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

3.0E−04	−0.3	3.9
1.0E−05	0.7	3.55
3.33E−05	2.5	2.1
1.1E−06	96.4	0.00
3.73E−06	120	33.2
1.23E−07	112	38
4.10E−07	93	11
8.2E−08	225	108
1.65E−08	103	11
3.29E−9	100	6.2

Linoleic acid (B3)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

9.0E−03	−6	3.06
3.0E−03	0.1	2.01
1E−03	−16.4	16.3
1.1E−04	4.4	0
3.73E−04	79.2	0
1.23E−05	62.6	6.2
4.10E−05	76.8	3.69
8.2E−06	146	44.2
1.65E−07	106	20.2
3.29E−07	60.2	2.3

Linolenic acid (B3)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

9.0E−03	−11	8.7
3.0E−03	−5.7	0.74
1E−03	−7.5	7.8
1.1E−04	−23	0
3.73E−04	68	0.57
1.23E−05	94.9	17.2
4.10E−05	65.9	0.03
8.2E−06	119	1.6
1.65E−07	77	8.5
3.29E−07	98	7.0

Myristic acid (B3)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

1E−03	−2	4.1
1.1E−04	−8	2.3
3.73E−04	−6	1.16
1.23E−05
4.10E−05	75.1	1.06
8.2E−06	74.2	10.0
1.65E−07	88.9	8.4
3.29E−07	101	4.47
5.0E−08
1.1E−08

Vanillin (B3)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

1.4E−02	21.5	24.2
4.8E−03	93.8	1.7
1E−03	124	15.6
1.1E−04
3.73E−04	101	14.3
1.23E−05	82	14.6
4.10E−05	98	2.4
8.2E−06	109	22
1.65E−07	80	4
3.29E−07	93	41

B4 Class Boosters

Hexadecanedioic acid (B4)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

1E−03
1.1E−04	14.2	2.7
3.73E−04	43.4	8.4
1.23E−05	130	0
4.10E−05	105	14
8.2E−06	114	12
1.65E−07	95	1.9
3.29E−07
5.0E−08	74	6.7
1.1E−08	70	10.4

12-hydroxysteric acid (B4)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

3.73E−04
1.23E−05	−5.2	2.3
4.10E−05	32.4	5.3
8.2E−06	97.6	0
1.65E−07	90.2	11
3.29E−07	82	28
5.0E−08	81	3.8
1.1E−08	98	24
2.0E−08	118	28
4.3E−09	71	2.3

Elaidic acid (B4)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

1E−03	12.8	12.1
1.1E−04	8	0.45
3.73E−04	13.8	1.92
1.23E−05	80.9	0
4.10E−05	58.2	8.8
8.2E−06
1.65E−07	58	0.13
3.29E−07	69	44
5.0E−08	50.5	3.8
1.1E−08

Linseed Oil (B4)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

1E−04	138	15
3.73E−05	145	2.5
1.23E−05	88	12
4.10E−06	113	0
8.2E−06	113	13
1.65E−07	96	18
3.29E−07	106	10
5.0E−08	134	22
1.1E−09	83	13
9.9E−10	73	15

Isoteric acid (B4)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

1E−03	−8.6	3.4
1.1E−04	1.2	3.0
3.73E−04	−5.3	1.1
1.23E−05	80	00
4.10E−05	67	7.9
8.2E−06	103	12.3
1.65E−07	95	5.5
3.29E−07	123	0.5
5.0E−08	78	12.2
1.1E−08	78	29

2-hydroxysteric acid (B4)

	Tgase levels	Tgase
Concentration	(Mean)	(SD)

9.1E−04	46.6	6.2
3.73E−04	69.3	8.3
1.23E−04	51	8.8
3.10E−05	96.0	0.0
1.2E−05	105	30
3.65E−06	63	8.0
1.29E−06	80	4.7
2.0E−07	142	34
5.1E−08	64	20
1.0E−08	58	17

Synergy of Tgase Inhibition with Binary Combinations of Boosters
To investigate synergistic inhibition of Tgase expression by combinations of 2 different classes of boosters with retinol, selected combinations of compounds were tested at concentrations given in the above table. The concentrations tested were one log order of magnitude less than the concentration required for minimal inhibition of Tgase activity (i.e. IC₂₀). The compounds were tested alone and in combination and the % inhibition of Tgase is given for each compound and the combination.
The following examples give the synergistic combinations in all possible binary combinations (B1/B2; B1/B3, B1/B4; B1/B5; B2/B3, B2/B4; B2/B5; B3/B4, B3/B5; B4/B5). When the % inhibition of the combination is more than the inhibition of each compound added together, it indicates synergy (i.e. Inhibition by combination is greater than inhibition by compound 1+compound 2). All the binary combination examples given in the following table synergistically inhibited Tgase.


			TG as	TG as
			% C	% C
Binary			Compd	Compd	TF % C
combinations	Compound 1	Compound 2	1	2	Combination

B1/B2	Dimethyl	Phosphatidylcholine	99	97	84
	imidazolidinone
B1/B2	Alpha-demascone	Phospahtidylcholine	95	97	86
B1/B2	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Phospahtidylcholine	109	97	86
B1/B2	Alpha-ionone	Sphingomyelin	101	98	76
B1/B2	1,2 dictanoyl-sn-	Phosphatidyl choline	106	98	78
	glycero-3-
	phosphoethanolamide
B1/B2	Alpha-demascone	Sphingomyelin	95	84	67
B1/B3	1,2 dioctanoyl-sn-	Amsacrine	123	134	75
	glycero-3-
	phosphoethanolamide
B1/B3	1,2 dioctanoyl-sn-	Carbenoxelone	123	164	96
	glycero-3-
	phosphoethanolamide
B1/B3	Caster oil MEA	Carbenoxelone	96	164	67
B1/B3	Utrecht-2	Amsacrine	102	98	86
B1/B3	Utrecht-2	Carbenoxelone	102	164	91
B1/B3	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Carbenoxelone	122	164	78
B1/B3	Lyral	Carbenoxelone	120	164	82
B1/B3	Castor oil MEA	Carbenoxelone	110	164	78
B1/B3	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Amsacrine	122	134	92
B1/B3	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Eliadic acid	122	144	85
B1/B3	Alpha ionone	Amsacrine	101	134	78
B1/B3	1,2 dioctanoyl-sn-	Glyocyrrhetinic acid	95	92	69
	glycero-3
	phosphoethanolamide
B1/B4	Naringenin	2-hydroxy steric acid	95	112	78
B1/B4	Hexanoyl sphingosine	2-hydroxy steric acid	99.3	112	77
B1/B4	Lyral	Hexadecanoic acid	120	95	69
B1/B4	Castor oil MEA	Hexadecanedioic acid	110	125	82
B1/B4	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Isostearic acid	122	146	93
B1/B4	Oleoyl betaine	Hexadecanedioic acid	99.5	125	80
B1/B5	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Cocoyl	99	102	68
		hydorxyethylimidazoline
B1/B5	Farnesol	Ketokonazole	98	111	84
B1/B5	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Miconazole	99	101	56
B1/B5	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Ketoconazole	99	99	65
B1/B5	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Lauryl	99	98	51
		hydroxyethylimiazoline
B1/B5	Utrecht-2	Amino benzotriazole	122	105	83
B1/B5	Hexanoyl sphingosine	3,4-dihydro-2	122	102	89
		guinolinone
B1/B5	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Amino benzotriazole	122	126	85
B1/B5	Castor oil MEA	Lauryl	110	98	56
		hydroxyethylimiazoline
B1/B5	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Climbazole	122	98	83
B1/B5	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Miconazole	122	99	78
B1/B5	Hexanoyl sphingosine	Ketoconazole	122	110	90
B1/B5	Oleoyl beatine	ketoconazole	96	116	81
B1/B5	Utrecht-2	Lauryl	122	98	57
		hydroxyethylimiazoline
B1/B5	Alpha-demascone	Oleoyl	112	73	76
		hydroxyethylimiazoline
B1/B5	Alpha-ionone	Lauryl	101	98	49
		hydroxyethylimiazoline
B1/B5	Alpha-ionone	Oleoyl	101	73	75
		hydroxyethylimiazoline
B2/B3	Phosphatidyl choline	Glycyrrhetinic acid	98	92	73
B2/B4	Phosphatidyl choline	2-hydroxy steric acid	98	82	70
B2/B5	Phosphatidyl choline	Climbazole	98	102	82
B2/B5	Phosphatidyl choline	Miconazole	98	111	92
B2/B5	Phosphatidyl choline	Ketoconazole	98	101	89
B2/B5	Phosphatidyl choline	Lauryl	98	106	82
		hydorxyimidazoline
B3/B4	Amscarine	2-hydroxy steric acid	102	82	75
B3/B4	Myristic acid	2-hydroxy steric acid	110	82	78
B3/B5	Amscarine	Aminobenzotriazole	102	98	84
B3/B5	Amscarine	Dimethyl imidazoline	102	112	94
B3/B5	Myristice acid	Climbazole	110	102	82
B4/B5	Linseed oil	Lauryl	98	73	57
		hydroxyethylimidazoline
B4/B5	2-hydroxystearic acid	Ketaconazole	92	109	77
B4/B5	Linseed oil	Oleoyl	98	92	75
		hydorxyethylimdazoline
B4/B5	2-hydroxystearic acid	Coumarin	92	96	70

Synergy of Tgase Inhibition with Tertiary Combinations of Boosters
To investigate synergistic inhibition of Tgase expression by combinations of 3 different classes of boosters with retinol, selected combinations of compounds were tested. The concentrations tested were one log order of magnitude less than the concentration required for minimal inhibition of Tgase activity (i.e. IC₂₀). The compounds were tested alone and in combination and the % inhibition of Tgase is given for each compound and the combination. The following examples give the synergistic combinations in all possible tertiary combinations (B1/B2/B3;B1/B2/B4;B1/B2/B5; B1/B3/B4;B1/B3/B5; B1/B4/B5; B2/B3/B4; B2/B3/B5; B2/B4/B5;B3/B4/B5). The % inhibition of the combination is more than the inhibition of each compound added together, which indicates synergy (i.e. Inhibition by combination is greater than inhibition by compound 1+compound 2+compound 3). All the examples of teritiary combinations of boosters given in the following table synergistically inhibited Tgase in the presence of 10-7 M retinol.


			TG as % C	TG as % C	TG as % C	TG as % C
Compound 1	Compound 2	Compound 3	Compd 1	Compd 2	Compd 3	Combo

B1/B2/B3 combinations:
Phosphatidyl Choline	Glycyrrhetinic	Castor oil Methyl	88	91	85	53
	Acid	Ester Acid (MEA)
Phosphatidyl Choline	Glycyrrhetinic	Echinacea	88	91	119	52
	Acid
Phosphatidyl Choline	Glycyrrhetinic	Naringenin	88	91	94	52
	Acid
Phosphatidyl Choline	Glycyrrhetinic	Acetyl sphingosine	88	91	99	58
	Acid	(C2 Ceramide)
Phosphatidyl Choline	Glycyrrhetinic	Farnesol	88	91	118	49
	Acid
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	a-Damascone	81	91	89	58
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Phosphatidyl	Naringenin	81	88	94	66
glycero-3-	Choline
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Amsacrine-HCl	Linoleoyl	81	79	127	60
glycero-3-		Monoethanolamide
phosphoethanolamide		(LAMEA)
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Amsacrine-HCl	Palmitamide	81	79	95	63
glycero-3-		Monoethanolamide
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	a-Damascone	81	91	89	58
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Naringenin	81	91	94	75
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Echinacea	81	91	119	77
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Dimethyl	81	91	87	67
glycero-3-	Acid	imidazolinone
phosphoethanolamide
Castor oil Methyl	Carbenoxelone	Phosphatidyl	85	95	88	63
Ester Acid (MEA)		Choline
B1/B2/B4
Combinations:
B1/B2/B5
Combinations:
Phosphatidyl Choline	Climbazole	Echinacea	88	84	119	75
Phosphatidyl Choline	Climbazole	Naringenin	88	84	94	83
Phosphatidyl Choline	Climbazole	Geraniol	88	84	105	76
Phosphatidyl Choline	Climbazole	Farnesol	88	84	118	82
Phosphatidyl Choline	Climbazole	Acetyl sphingosine	88	84	99	82
		(C2 Ceramide)
Phosphatidyl Choline	Miconazole	a-Ionone	88	92	88	70
Phosphatidyl Choline	Miconazole	Castor oil Methyl	88	92	85	72
		Ester Acid (MEA)
B1/B3/B4
Combinations:
Amsacrine-HCl	Dimethyl	Elaidic acid	79	87	93	0
	imidazolinone
□-Ionone	Amsacrine-HCl	12-Hydroxystearic	68	79	95	62
		acid
Lyrial	Hexadecanedioic	Vanillin	97	90	134	81
	acid
Hexanoyl sphingosine	Isostearic acid	Glycyrrhetinic	104	87	91	58
(C6 Ceramide)		Acid
B1/B3/B5
Combinations:
Amsacrine-HCl	Dimethyl	2-	79	87	95	32
	imidazolinone	Hydroxyquinoline(Carbostyril)
Amsacrine-HCl	Dimethyl	Lauryl	79	87	52	−13
	imidazolinone	hydroxyethylimidazoline
Amsacrine-HCl	Dimethyl	Quercetin	79	87	92	−24
	imidazolinone
Amsacrine-HCl	Dimethyl	Oleoyl	79	87	76	39
	imidazolinone	hydroxyethlimidazoline
Amsacrine-HCl	Dimethyl	7H-	79	87	94	32
	imidazolinone	Benzimidazo[2,1-
		a]Benz[de]-
		isoquinolin-7-one
Amsacrine-HCl	Dimethyl	Coumarin	79	87	80	30
	imidazolinone
Hexanoyl	Carbenoxolone	Oleoyl	104	88	76	64
sphingosine (C6		hydroxyethlimidazoline
Ceramide)
Hexanoyl	3,4,-Dihydro-	Vanillin	104	90	134	62
sphingosine (C6	2(1H)-
Ceramide)	quinolinone(Hydrocarbostyril)
Amsacrine-HCl	Amino	Echinacea	79	105	119	48
	Benzotriazole
Hexanoyl	Amino	Sphingomyelin	104	105	60	69
sphingosine (C6	Benzotriazole
Ceramide)
Amsacrine-HCl	Amino	Acetyl sphingosine	79	105	99	−7
	Benzotriazole	(C2 Ceramide)
□-Ionone	Amsacrine-HCl	7H-	68	79	94	54
		Benzimidazo[2,1-
		a]Benz[de]-
		isoquinolin-7-one
Utrecht-2	Carbenoxolone	Quercetin	76	88	92	74
Utrecht-2	Carbenoxolone	Oleoyl	76	88	76	69
		hydroxyethlimidazoline
Utrecht-2	Carbenoxolone	7H-	76	88	94	73
		Benzimidazo[2,1-
		a]Benz[de]-
		isoquinolin-7-one
Utrecht-2	Carbenoxolone	3,4,-Dihydro-	76	88	90	70
		2(1H)-
		quinolinone(Hydrocarbostyril)
Myristic Acid	Climbazole	Geraniol	79	84	105	74
Myristic Acid	Climbazole	□-Damascone	79	84	89	73
Myristic Acid	Climbazole	Acetyl sphingosine	79	84	99	70
		(C2 Ceramide)
Oleyl Betaine	Ketoconazole	Carbenoxolone	62	85	88	78
Oleyl Betaine	Ketoconazole	Glycyrrhetinic	62	85	91	71
		Acid
Oleyl Betaine	Ketoconazole	Linoleic Acid	62	85	11	83
Oleyl Betaine	Ketoconazole	Linolenic Acid	62	85	208	80
Hexanoyl sphingosine	3,4,-Dihydro-	Vanillin	104	90	134	62
(C6 Ceramide)	2(1H)-
	quinolinone(Hydrocarbostyril)
B1/B4/B5
Combinations:
Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	Castor oil Methyl	93	95	85	75
	(Carbostyril)	Ester Acid (MEA)
Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	Naringenin	93	95	94	86
	(Carbostyril)
Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	a-Demascone	93	95	89	80
	(Carbostyril)
Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	Farnesol	93	95	118	82
	(Carbostyril)
Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	Crocetin	93	95	90	78
	(Carbostyril)
B2/B3/B4
Combinations:
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	12-Hydroxystearic	81	91	95	57
glycero-3-	Acid	acid
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Linseed oil	81	91	103	62
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Elaidic acid	81	91	93	75
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
Phosphatidyl Choline	2-Hydroxystearic	Arachidonic Acid	88	83	78	60
	acid	(Na+ salt)
B2/B3/B5
Combinations:
Phosphatidyl Choline	Climbazole	Linolenic Acid	88	84	208	84
Phosphatidyl Choline	Climbazole	Arachidonic Acid	88	84	78	83
		(Na+ salt)
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Amsacrine-HCl	Climbazole	81	79	84	58
glycero-3-
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Amsacrine-HCl	7H-	81	79	94	59
glycero-3-		Benzimidazo[2,1-
phosphoethanolamide		a]Benz[de]-
		isoquinolin-7-one
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	3,4,-Dihydro-	81	91	90	56
glycero-3-	Acid	2(1H)-
phosphoethanolamide		quinolinone(Hydrocarbostyril)
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	2-	81	91	95	75
glycero-3-	Acid	Hydroxyquinoline(Carbostyril)
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Amino	81	91	105	72
glycero-3-	Acid	Benzotriazole
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Lauryl	81	91	52	79
glycero-3-	Acid	hydroxyethylimidazoline
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Quercetin	81	91	92	73
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Climbazole	81	91	84	54
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Clotrimazole	81	91	79	42
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Miconazole	81	91	82	43
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
B2/B4/B5
Combinations:
Phosphatidyl Choline	2-Hydroxystearic	Amino Beozotriazole	88	83	105	77
	acid
Phosphatidyl Choline	2-Hydroxystearic	Lauryl	88	83	52	74
	acid	hydroxyethylimidazoline
Phosphatidyl Choline	2-Hydroxystearic	Quercetin	88	83	92	69
	acid
Phosphatidyl Choline	2-Hydroxystearic	Oleoyl	88	83	76	75
	acid	hydroxyethlimidazoline
Phosphatidyl Choline	2-Hydroxystearic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	88	83	94	79
	acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-7-one
Phosphatidyl Choline	Climbazole	Elaidic acid	88	84	93	81
B3/B4/B5
Combinations:
Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	Carbenoxolone	93	95	88	69
	(Carbostyril)
Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	Vanillin	93	95	134	81
	(Carbostyril)
Amsacrine-HCl	Amino	Linseed oil	79	105	103	45
	Benzotriazole
Myristic Acid	Climbazole	12-Hydroxystearic acid	79	84	95	81
Myristic Acid	Climbazole	Linseed oil	79	84	103	81
Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	Arachidonic Acid (Na+ salt)	93	95	78	63
	(Carbostyril)

Synergy of Tgase Inhibition with Quaternary Combinations of Boosters
To investigate synergistic inhibition of Tgase expression by combinations of 4 different classes of boosters with retinol, selected combinations of compounds were tested. The concentrations tested were one log order of magnitude less than the concentration required for minimal inhibition of Tgase activity (i.e. IC₂₀).
The compounds were tested alone and in combination and the % inhibition of Tgase is given for each compound and the combination. The following examples give the synergistic combinations in all possible quaternary combinations (B1/B2/B3/B4; B1/B2/B3/B5; B1/B2/B4/B5; B1/B3/B4/B5;
B2/B3/B4/B5;). Synergy was confirmed if the difference in % inhibition of the combination (of 4 boosters) is more than 30% that of the inhibition by 3 booster combinations (i.e. % inhibition of 4 booster combo is equal to or greater than % inhibition of 3 booster combo+30%). All the quaternary combinations of boosters shown in the table given below showed synergy.


					Tertiary
				Quarternary	(1-3
				TG	combo;	Difference
Compound 1	Compound 2	Compound 3	Compound 4	(% C)	TG % C)	(<30% = synergy)

B1/B2/B3/B4 Combination:
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	12-Hydroxy-	21	64	42
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline	Acid	stearic acid
Naringenin	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	12-Hydroxy-	15	57	41
	Choline	Acid	stearic acid
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Glycyrrhetinic	12-Hydroxy-	−3	40	43
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-	Acid	stearic acid
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Glycyrrhetinic	Isostearic acid	5	40	35
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-	Acid
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	12-Hydroxy-	−3	42	45
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-		stearic acid
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Elaidic acid	8	42	34
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Hexanoyl	TCC	Glycyrrhetinic	Isostearic acid	7	54	47
sphingosine (C6		Acid
Ceramide)
Lyrial	TCC	Vanilin	Hexadecanedioic	10	48	38
			acid
Cocoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Glycyrrhetinic	Isostearic acid	0	37	37
hydroxyethylimidazoline	sn-glycero-3-	Acid
	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Cocoyl	Phosphatidyl	Arachidonic Acid	2-Hydroxy-	−1	37	38
hydroxyethylimidazoline	Choline	(Na+ salt)	stearic acid
Cocoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Glycyrrhetinic	Linseed oil	−2	45	47
hydroxyethylimidazoline	sn-glycero-3-	Acid
	phosphoethanol-
	amide
B1/B2/B3/B5
Combination:
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Climbazole	20	64	44
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline	Acid
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Clotrimazole	26	64	38
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline	Acid
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Miconazole	9	64	55
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline	Acid
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Ketoconazole	5	64	59
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline	Acid
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Lauryl	15	64	49
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline	Acid	hydroxyethylimidazoline
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Oleoyl	2	64	61
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline	Acid	hydroxyethlimidazoline
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	25	64	39
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline	Acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Echinacea	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	12-Hydroxystearic acid	18	62	44
	Choline	Acid
Echinacea	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Climbazole	22	62	40
	Choline	Acid
Echinacea	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Clotrimazole	24	62	38
	Choline	Acid
Echinacea	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Miconazole	13	62	50
	Choline	Acid
Echinacea	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Ketoconazole	12	62	50
	Choline	Acid
Echinacea	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Lauryl	14	62	49
	Choline	Acid	hydroxyethylimidazoline
Echinacea	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Oleoyl	3	62	59
	Choline	Acid	hydroxyethlimidazoline
Echinacea	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	24	62	39
	Choline	Acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Naringenin	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Miconazole	1	57	56
	Choline	Acid
Naringenin	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Ketoconazole	22	57	34
	Choline	Acid
Naringenin	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Lauryl	10	57	46
	Choline	Acid	hydroxyethylimidazoline
Naringenin	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Oleoyl	2	57	54
	Choline	Acid	hydroxyethlimidazoline
Naringenin	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	15	57	42
	Choline	Acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Palmitamide	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Miconazole	−2	39	41
Monoethanolamide	Choline	Acid
Palmitamide	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Oleoyl	6	39	33
Monoethanolamide	Choline	Acid	hydroxyethlimidazoline
Farnesol	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Miconazole	3	43	40
	Choline	Acid
Farnesol	Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Oleoyl	6	43	37
	Choline	Acid	hydroxyethlimidazoline
Geraniol	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Miconazole	11	47	36
	sn-glycero-3-
	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Geraniol	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Oleoyl	3	47	44
	sn-glycero-3-		hydroxyethlimidazoline
	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Glycyrrhetinic	Climbazole	2	40	37
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-	Acid
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Glycyrrhetinic	Miconazole	5	40	35
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-	Acid
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Glycyrrhetinic	Ketoconazole	0	40	40
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-	Acid
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Glycyrrhetinic	Lauryl	−2	40	41
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-	Acid	hydroxyethylimidazoline
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Glycyrrhetinic	Oleoyl	5	40	35
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-	Acid	hydroxyethlimidazoline
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Glycyrrhetinic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	1	40	39
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-	Acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-		7-one
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Climbazole	7	42	35
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Clotrimazole	10	42	32
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Miconazole	5	42	37
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Ketoconazole	11	42	32
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Lauryl	−4	42	46
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-		hydroxyethylimidazoline
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Oleoyl	5	42	37
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-		hydroxyethlimidazoline
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Linoleoyl	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	8	42	35
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-		a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
(LAMEA)	phosphoethanol-		7-one
	amide
Palmitamide	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Miconazole	13	43	30
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-
	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Palmitamide	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Oleoyl	3	43	40
Monoethanolamide	sn-glycero-3-		hydroxyethlimidazoline
	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Alpha-Damascone	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Miconazole	11	48	37
	sn-glycero-3-
	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Alpha-Damascone	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Ketoconazole	13	48	34
	sn-glycero-3-
	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Alpha-Damascone	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Lauryl	15	48	33
	sn-glycero-3-		hydroxyethylimidazoline
	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Alpha-Damascone	1,2-dioctanoyl-	Amsacrine-HCl	Oleoyl hydroxyethlimidazoline	3	48	45
	sn-glycero-3-
	phosphoethanol-
	amide
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Carbenoxolone	12-Hydroxystearic acid	3	55	52
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Carbenoxolone	Climbazole	6	55	49
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Carbenoxolone	Miconazole	−2	55	57
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Carbenoxolone	Ketoconazole	1	55	54
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Carbenoxolone	Lauryl hydroxyethylimidazoline	4	55	51
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Carbenoxolone	Oleoyl	3	55	52
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline		hydroxyethlimidazoline
Castor oil Methyl	Phosphatidyl	Carbenoxolone	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	11	55	44
Ester Acid (MEA)	Choline		a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Naringenin	Phosphatidyl	Linoleic Acid	Climbazole	−1	45	46
	Choline
Geraniol	Phosphatidyl	Linoleic Acid	Climbazole	1	40	39
	Choline
Acetyl sphingosine	Phosphatidyl	Linoleic Acid	Climbazole	0	40	40
(C2 Ceramide)	Choline
Acetyl sphingosine	Phosphatidyl	Linolenic Acid	Climbazole	10	40	30
(C2 Ceramide)	Choline
Dimethyl	TCC	Amsacrine-HCl	Elaidic acid	14	47	33
imidazolinone
Dimethyl	TCC	Amsacrine-HCl	Quercetin	12	44	32
imidazolinone
Dimethyl	TCC	Amsacrine-HCl	Coumarin	14	58	44
imidazolinone
Hexanoyl	TCC	Glycyrrhetinic	Amino Benzotriazole	8	48	40
sphingosine (C6		Acid
Ceramide)
Alpha-Damascone	TCC	Myristic Acid	Climbazole	10	44	34
B1/B2/B4/B5
Combination:
Lyrial	Vanilin	Hexadecanedioic	Miconazole	12	48	36
		acid
Lyrial	Vanilin	Hexadecanedioic	Oleoyl	4	48	45
		acid	hydroxyethlimidazoline
Crocetin	TCC	Elaidic acid	2-	11	48	37
			Hydroxyquinoline(Carbostyril)
Hexanoyl	Glycyrrhetinic	12-Hydroxystearic	Amino Benzotriazole	14	48	33
sphingosine (C6	Acid	acid
Ceramide)
Dimethyl	Phosphatidyl	2-Hydroxystearic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	2	44	42
imidazolinone	Choline	acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Melinamide	Phosphatidyl	2-Hydroxystearic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	5	44	39
	Choline	acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Geranyl geraniol	Phosphatidyl	2-Hydroxystearic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	9	44	35
	Choline	acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Cocoyl	Phosphatidyl	2-Hydroxystearic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	−8	44	52
hydroxyethylimidazoline	Choline	acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Acetyl sphingosine	Phosphatidyl	2-Hydroxystearic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	10	44	34
(C2 Ceramide)	Choline	acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Crocetin	Phosphatidyl	2-Hydroxystearic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	10	44	34
	Choline	acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
N,N-Diethyl	Phosphatidyl	2-Hydroxystearic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	4	44	40
Cocamide(Cocamide	Choline	acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
DEA)			7-one
Cocoyl	Phosphatidyl	Elaidic acid	Climbazole	−4	30	34
hydroxyethylimidazoline	Choline
B1/B3/B4/B5
Combination:
Dimethyl	Amsacrine-HCl	Elaidic acid	Miconazole	7	47	40
imidazolinone
Dimethyl	Amsacrine-HCl	Elaidic acid	Ketoconazole	6	47	41
imidazolinone
Dimethyl	Amsacrine-HCl	Elaidic acid	Oleoyl	3	47	44
imidazolinone			hydroxyethlimidazoline
Hexanoyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Isostearic acid	Clotrimazole	20	54	34
sphingosine (C6	Acid
Ceramide)
Hexanoyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Isostearic acid	Miconazole	10	54	43
sphingosine (C6	Acid
Ceramide)
Hexanoyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Isostearic acid	Lauryl	20	54	33
sphingosine (C6	Acid		hydroxyethylimidazoline
Ceramide)
Hexanoyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Isostearic acid	Oleoyl	5	54	48
sphingosine (C6	Acid		hydroxyethlimidazoline
Ceramide)
Crocetin	Linoleic Acid	Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	0	48	48
			(Carbostyril)
Crocetin	Linolenic Acid	Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	−2	48	50
			(Carbostyril)
Castor oil Methyl	Linoleic Acid	Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	−1	31	32
Ester Acid (MEA)			(Carbostyril)
Cocoyl	Carbenoxolone	Elaidic acid	2-Hydroxyquinoline	−6	28	34
hydroxyethylimidazoline			(Carbostyril)
B2/B3/B4/B5
Combination:
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Isostearic acid	Ketoconazole	4	37	33
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanol-
amide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Isostearic acid	Oleoyl	6	37	31
glycero-3-	Acid		hydroxyethlimidazoline
phosphoethanol-
amide
Phosphatidyl	Arachidonic	2-Hydroxystearic	Miconazole	6	37	31
Choline	Acid (Na+ salt)	acid
Phosphatidyl	Arachidonic	2-Hydroxystearic	Oleoyl	5	37	32
Choline	Acid (Na+ salt)	acid	hydroxyethlimidazoline
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Linseed oil	Miconazole	−1	45	47
glycero-3-	Acid
phosphoethanolamide
1,2-dioctanoyl-sn-	Glycyrrhetinic	Linseed oil	Oleoyl	7	45	38
glycero-3-	Acid		hydroxyethlimidazoline
phosphoethanol-
amide
Phosphatidyl	Carbenoxolone	2-Hydroxystearic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	8	44	36
Choline		acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Phosphatidyl	Linoleic Acid	2-Hydroxystearic	7H-Benzimidazo[2,1-	−3	44	47
Choline		acid	a]Benz[de]-isoquinolin-
			7-one
Phosphatidyl	Glycyrrhetinic	Elaidic acid	Climbazole	−3	30	33
Choline	Acid
Phosphatidyl	Linoleic Acid	Elaidic acid	Climbazole	−2	30	32
Choline

Cosmetically Acceptable Vehicle
The composition according to the invention also comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a dilutant, dispersant or carrier for the active components in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.
Vehicles other than or in addition to water can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders. An especially preferred non-aqueous carrier is a polydimethyl siloxane and/or a polydimethyl phenyl siloxane. Silicones of this invention may be those with viscosities ranging anywhere from about 10 to 10,000,000 centistokes at 25° C. Especially desirable are mixtures of low and high viscosity silicones. These silicones are available from the General Electric Company under trademarks Vicasil, SE and SF and from the Dow Corning Company under the 200 and 550 Series. Amounts of silicone which can be utilised in the compositions of this invention range anywhere from 5 to 95%, preferably from 25 to 90% by weight of the composition.
Optional Skin Benefit Materials and Cosmetic Adjuncts
An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emulsifier employed.
Various types of active ingredients may be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Various types of active ingredients may be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Actives are defined as skin or hair benefit agents other than emollients and other than ingredients that merely improve the physical characteristics of the composition. Although not limited to this category, general examples include sunscreens, skin lightening agents, and tanning agents.
Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet light. Illustrative compounds are the derivatives of PABA, cinnamate and salicylate. For example, octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone are commercially available under the trademarks, Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3, respectively.
The exact amount of sunscreen employed in the emulsions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation.
Another preferred optional ingredient is selected from essential fatty acids (EFAs), i.e., those fatty acids which are essential for the plasma membrane formation of all cells, in keratinocytes EFA deficiency makes cells hyperproliferative. Supplementation of EFA corrects this. EFA's also enhance lipid biosynthesis of epidermis and provide lipids for the barrier formation of the epidermis. The essential fatty acids are preferably chosen from linoleic acid, γ-linolenic acid, homo-γ-linolenic acid, columbinic acid, eicosa-(n-6,9,13)-trienoic acid, arachidonic acid, γ-linolenic acid, timnodonic acid, hexaenoic acid and mixtures thereof.
Emollients are often incorporated into cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Levels of such emollients may range from about 0.5% to about 50%, preferably between about 5% and 30% by weight of the total composition. Emollients may be classified under such general chemical categories as esters, fatty acids and alcohols, polyols and hydrocarbons.
Esters may be mono- or di-esters. Acceptable examples of fatty di-esters include dibutyl adipate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl dimerate, and dioctyl succinate. Acceptable branched chain fatty esters include 2-ethyl-hexyl myristate, isopropyl stearate and isostearyl palmitate. Acceptable tribasic acid esters include triisopropyl trilinoleate and trilauryl citrate. Acceptable straight chain fatty esters include lauryl palmitate, myristyl lactate, oleyl eurcate and stearyl oleate. Preferred esters include coco-caprylate/caprate (a blend of coco-caprylate and coco-caprate), propylene glycol myristyl ether acetate, diisopropyl adipate and cetyl octanoate.
Suitable fatty alcohols and acids include those compounds having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Especially preferred are such compounds such as cetyl, myristyl, palmitic and stearyl alcohols and acids.
Among the polyols which may serve as emollients are linear and branched chain alkyl polyhydroxyl compounds. For example, propylene glycol, sorbitol and glycerin are preferred. Also useful may be polymeric polyols such as polypropylene glycol and polyethylene glycol. Butylene and propylene glycol are also especially preferred as penetration enhancers.
Exemplary hydrocarbons which may serve as emollients are those having hydrocarbon chains anywhere from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Specific examples include mineral oil, petroleum jelly, squalene and isoparaffins.
Another category of functional ingredients within the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are thickeners. A thickener will usually be present in amounts anywhere from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to 10% by weight of the composition. Exemplary thickeners are cross-linked polyacrylate materials available under the trademark Carbopol from the B. F. Goodrich Company. Gums may be employed such as xanthan, carrageenan, gelatin, karaya, pectin and locust beans gum. Under certain circumstances the thickening function may be accomplished by a material also serving as a silicone or emollient. For instance, silicone gums in excess of 10 centistokes and esters such as glycerol stearate have dual functionality.
Powders may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition of the invention. These powders include chalk, talc, Fullers earth, kaolin, starch, smectite clays, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed silica, aluminum starch octenyl succinate and mixtures thereof.
Other adjunct minor components may also be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions. These ingredients may include coloring agents, opacifiers and perfumes. Amounts of these materials may range anywhere from 0.001% up to 20% by weight of the composition.
Use of the Composition
The composition according to the invention is intended primarily as a product for topical application to human skin, especially as an agent for conditioning and smoothening the skin, and preventing or reducing the appearance of wrinkled or aged skin.
In use, a small quantity of the composition, for example from 1 to 5 ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers or a suitable device. Product Form and Packaging
The topical skin treatment composition of the invention can be formulated as a lotion, a fluid cream, a cream or a gel. The composition can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer. For example, a lotion or fluid cream can be packaged in a bottle or a roll-ball applicator, or a capsule, or a propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation. When the composition is a cream, it can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar.
The invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically acceptable composition as herein defined.

Claims

1-7. (canceled)

8. A method for treating skin comprising the steps of:

(i) applying to the skin a composition comprising

(a) from 0.01% to 10% of a retinoid;

(b) at least one booster compound selected from the group consisting of quercetin, coumarin, vanillin and arachidonic acid;

(c) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, and

(ii) treating the skin for wrinkles, psoriasis, age spots and/or discoloration.

9. The method according to claim 8 wherein the composition further comprises an additional compound which is climbazole, linoleic acid, myristic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, linseed oil, cocoyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, phosphatidyl choline, oleyl betaine, hexanoyl sphingosine, geranyl geraniol or a mixture thereof.

10. The method according to claim 8 wherein the composition further comprises climbazole.

11. The method according to claim 8 wherein the skin care composition further comprises a fatty alcohol or fatty acid.

12. The method according to claim 8 wherein the composition further comprises linseed oil, cocoyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, phosphatidyl choline or a mixture thereof.

13. The method according to claim 8 where the booster compound or compounds make up from about 0.0001% to 50% of the composition.

14. The method according to claim 8 wherein the booster compound or compounds potentiate the action of retinoids by increasing conversion of retinoid to retinoic acid and further wherein the compound or compounds cause an action which is an inhibition of ARAT/LRAT activity, an enhancement of retinol dehydrogenase activity, an inhibition of retinal reductase activity, antagonistic to CRABPll binding of retinoic acid and/or an inhibition of cytochrome P450 dependent retinoic acid oxidation.

15. The method according to claim 11 wherein the composition further comprises climbazole and the fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol.

16. The method according to claim 11 wherein the composition further comprises bifbnazole and the fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol.

17. The method according to claim 8 wherein the composition further comprises glycyrrhetinic acid.

18. The method according to claim 8 wherein the composition further comprises famesol,

19. The method according to claim 8 wherein the composition further comprises ursolic acid.

20. The method according to claim 8 wherein the composition further comprises a sunscreen.

21. The method according to claim 8 wherein the composition further comprises linoieoyl monoethanolamide, palmitamide monoethanolamide, castor oil methyl ester acid, skin lightening agent or a mixture thereof.

22. The method according to claim 8 wherein the composition further comprises 12-hydroxystearic acid.