US2069819A - Stitched fabric - Google Patents

Description

f Feb. 9, 1937. H. D'IEM STITCHED FABRIC Filed Feb. 23, 1935 Patented Feb. 9, 1937 STITCHED FABRIC `Hans Diem, Neuchatel, Switzerland, assigner to the' firm Edouard Dubied & Cle. Socit Anonyme, Neuchatel, Switzerland Application February 23, 1935, Serial No. 7,813 vIn Switzerland February 27, 1934 lOlaim.

This invention relates to looped fabrics which may be knitted in a simple manner or knitted by frame, the two faces of the fabric being dissimilar by the use of different yarn formations, viz., stitches and stitches drawn through loops that are intermeshed in such manner that the capability of the fabric of remaining true to form is increased and the elasticity of the same is reduced more or less depending on whether the fabric is required to stretch or to remain true to the original form at all times, but so that the .fabric is nevertheless vlight and pliant, whereby the applicability of the fabric in the manufacture of garments of various kinds is conv siderably increased. By the distinction as made between stitches and stitches drawn through loopsT is intended to be brought out that in knitting fabrics of this kind "stitches that is, yarn formations each consisting of a full needle loop and two halves of a sinker loop are used in combination with stitches drawn through loops, each of the latter yarn formation consisting of a superposition of two complete loops of stitchshape, i. e. stitches, which are slid one over the other, so that the loop first formed straddles the loop last formed. y

The hitherto known looped fabrics knitted in a simple manner or by frame have the drawback of being too highly elastic in all directions and thus lacking a requisite resistivity against stretching, so that garments made of such fabrics are prone to change their shape particularly in the longitudinal direction of the garment.

According to this invention, a looped fabric similar to knitted ribbed fabrics with or without weft threads inserted between rows of yarn por-'- tions formed on opposite needle rows of the two fabric faces is provided, the fabric comprising on one face stitches that are each drawn through a loop by means of at least one needle, and at corresponding points on the other face wider stitches and wider stitches drawn through loops of equal width respectively formed by conjoint action of at least two adjacent needles and passed over to said corresponding stitches drawn through loops ofvsmaller width. r,

By means of the thus obtained systematic arrangement of stitches and stitches drawn through loops of smaller width as well as wider stitches and stitches drawn through loops, in one and the same row, an irregular net-work is formed' onto which each weft thread is first deposited and by effect of the interknitting operation is caused to 'change shape. Furthermore, this fabric, for both faces its stretched shape to a sinuous- (Cl. Gli-) in the direction transversely of the weft, which resembles that of a genuine knitted fabric.

Hereinafter an example of the fabric according to the invention is described by taking reference to the accompanying drawing, in which Figs. 1 and 2 each show the right and back face of a fabric respectively which compared to stitches of usual width (by being formed on a single needle) contains stitches and stitches drawn through loops of at least twice this width that were transferredover to stitches drawn through loops of usual, thus smaller width, after a weft thread had been inserted between the wider and smaller stitches drawn through loops or wider stitches andsmaller stitches drawn through loops respectively, the yarn formations combined by transference then being knocked over, whereby the weft thread is bound in the fabric, that is, locked against longitudinal displacement, and the Figs. -3 to 5 each illustrates schematically different consecutive working stages during eecting the looped fabric depicted in the Figs.' 1 and 2. In the drawing, the numeral I refers to rib stitches drawn through loops of usual width,

Whereas by 2,*'3 two interknitted complete loops, i. e. rib stitches of at least twice the usual width, each consisting of a complete loop 3 over which a previously formed complete loop 2 is slid soV as to straddle the loop 3, are designated. The superposition ofthe complete loops 2 and 3 may also be described as being effected by drawing the loop 3 through the loop 2. 2' refers to stitches of twice the usual width which stitches are however not interknitted with a similar stitch or complete loop before being passed over. 4 represents the weft thread, 5 and 6 needles of one row of needles, and 1 to I4 needles of the other row one needle bed, and the stitches drawnthrough loops of usual width that had been formed `on the threads were securely boundin the fabric and thus actually locked against longitudinal displacement relative thereto. This fabric can, by

way of example, be produced in a knitting machine with two oppositely disposed needle beds as follows (Figs. 3 to 5) It that from the start the cam slide is positioned on the left of the machine and that in the hooks ofthe needles Sand S, schematically indicating the lower needle bed which may be the front needle bed of the machine, stitches I drawn through loops of usual width formed from the knitting thread are lnserted, whereas the hooks o! the needles 1 to Il of the opposite or rear needle bed are devoid oi.' either stitches or stitches drawn through loops. Now, if -in a known manner a double needle lock cam slide is traversed across the needle beds from left to right in these -figures, by means of ordinary cam portions` of the right hand needle lock, only on the needles 5 stitches I drawn through loops of usual width are r` holds fast the middle portion of the wider stitch formed again from this thread, but in a fresh length thereof and on oppositely disposed pairs f adjacent needles l, l; 9, Il; II, I2; I3, Il of the rear needle bed stitches 2 and 2' wider than Y usual are formed-from the same length of this thread (Fig. 3). lThis explains why in this flgure, which, as will be remembered, 4is only a schematic illustration, the stitches I drawn through loops on the needles 5 are connected by a continuous thread portion with the loops 2 and 2', whereas the stitches I drawn through loops on the needles 6 are not shown to be connected. The formation oi.' stitches wider than usual from the knitting thread is accomplished in? a similar marmer as that of stitches of ordinary width by causing, by means of retracting cams of the corresponding needle lock,` two adjacent needles of the rear needle bed to draw out one and the same thread loop,`by conjoint movements, in this thread which yis then fed across thehooks of the respective lneedles. drawing out of stitches wider than usual is rendered possible by the thread, nt the point in the length thereof where through loops areknitted.

such a loop is formed, bearing against the corresponding tine of the knock-over cam of the respective needle bed, in which way this tine being formed, while on both sides of this tine the thread is pulledV into the guideways loit` the two adjacent needles employed.

The `stitches 2' being originally exactly lequal tothe stitches 2 are changed Vto stitches drawn through loops prior to their transference 60` to theneedles of the front needlebed, whereas the stitches 2 remain unchanged'. accomplished by means of ordinary cam portions of vthe left part of the cam slide duringpassing .the slide from right to left, while in cooperation with Ka. knownv jacquard device, in accordancel with a certainl pattern, on the pairs of needles I .1,1 vand-I3, Il fresh stitches 3 are formed and l`interknitted with therstitches` 2, already vheld `by these pairs of needles to stitches. drawn x through loops 2, 3 of awidth larger than usual `(Fig. 4).

wslide'bythe left partithereof, stitches I drawn During the'same traverse of the cam through loops of usual width are again knitted on the needles 5 of the front needle bed.

Thereupon, Ybetween the stitches I drawn through loops of usual width on the front needle y bed and the wider stitches drawn through loops 2, 3 and the wider stitches 2' respectively on the rearneedlebedaweftthreadlisinserted. This is accomplished by moving, during the same traverse of the slide from right to left, a thread guide acres the open meshes-still held bythe needles 5 and the opposite needles l, I, l, II and so forth and depositing the wett thread supplied by this thread guide on the netpor mesh-work i thus formed. This mesh-work is irregular due to the alternation of wider stitches 2' with wider stitches drawn through loops 2, 3 in patterning order. Subsequently, during the next traverse of the slide i'rom left to right the stitches 2' and the stitches drawn through loops are each passed over to a needle hook of an opposite needle 6 and deposited thereon in addition to the stitch Idrawn throughaloopalreadyheldbytherespective needle 6 (Fig. 5), and iinally the superpodstitchesareknockedovertotheleft. The

'transference of the stitches and stitches drawn the correlated needle latches by sliding across thesameandthenenterthehooksoftheopposite needles i. This trauten-ing operation is illustrated and more explicitly explained in my copending application Ber. No. '150,325 (Patent No. 2,059,682)

lthroughloops carriedbythielatterneedidose` Aeo The same workingcycle isthenrepeated i thatthistimeon theoneneedlebed withthe needles 6 and on the other needle bed withthe `needles.l,9; I., Ilandsoon,stitch andstitches drawn through loops of usual width alternating with wider patterning stitches and stitches drawn In the thusI produced loopedV fabric. the weft threads are inserted in sinuous shape, due to the network beingA irregular forfthe .reason stated above, in order to be subsequently rmly bound in the knitted fahne by transference of the wider l stitches and loops.

v'Ihis sinuous shape being caused merely by adjacent lmesh portions varying in shape, it will be seen. that the amplitudes of the weft thread un# dulations equal substantially only the thickness `of thread By incorporating a weft in knitted goods of the particular net structure as obtained by means of the invention a looped fabric results which onthe one hand presents the same aspect, texture and capability of remaining true to form as woven fabrics and on the other hand is provided with a suppleness,-porosity and an elastic resiliency in the direction transversely of. the weft equalling genuine knitted goods in respect to these qualities. I do not limit myself to the particular size, shape, number or arrangement of parts as lshown and described, all of which may be varied without going beyond the scope of .my invention as shown, described and claimed.

What I claim is:

In a looped fabric similar to knitted ribbed fabrics having a succession of rows of meshes, individual rows comprising on one fabric face 5 stitches and stitches drawn through loops of at least twice usual width alternating in patterning order andintermeshed by transference with stitches drawn through loops of smaller width from the opposite fabric face, and a weft thread t enclosed by said opposite yarn formations from both fabric faces.

HANS DIEM.

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