US1729601A - Garment - Google Patents

Description

Sept. 24, 1929. g, sLEY GARMENT Filed June 6, 1927 ZShoets-Sheet l Sept. 24, 1929. c, Ns EY GARMENT 2 Sheets-Sheet Filed June 6, 1927 Patented Sept. 24, 1929 CHARLOTTE E. ANSLEY, OF MINNEAPOLIS, MEIINNESOTA eanunu'r Application filed June 6, 1927. Serial No. 196,778.

This invention relates to' womens and childrens garments and particularly to combination garments of the type used for underwear, bathing suits, dress and underwear combinations etc.

It is the object of this invention to provide a novel garment of improved construction which will combine the Various features of a number of garments now commonly worn by women and children in one unitary structure.

To this end, the invention consists in the novel parts and novel combinations of parts defined in the claims and hereinafter de scribed in connection with the accompanying drawings, wherein like reference characters refer to the same or similar parts throughout the various views and,in which,

Fig. 1 is a plan view of a pattern for the m n s Fig. 2 1s a perspective view illustrating a girl wearing the made-up garment, certain of the parts of the garment being broken.

away and certain of the parts being shown in section Fig.3 is a top plan view of the made-up garment;

Fig. 4 is a vertical section taken through the medial portion of the front and back of the garment on the line 4-4 of Fig: 3 as indicated by the arrows;

Fig. 5 is a vertical sectional view through the top portion of the garment takenon the line 55 of Fig. 3, as indicated by the arrows;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the garment showing the slip and brassiere portions of the garment raised upwardly from the top of the garment;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the garment showing the slip. portion of the garment raised upwardly from the top thereof and the bassiere portion of the garment extending downwardly in wearing position; one corner of the front flap of the brassiere portion being raised;

Fig. 8 is 'a perspective view showing the parts of the garment in wearing position with the exception of the lower part of the slip portion which is raised upwardly from adjacent the middle of the same; i i

i Fig. 9 is a horizontal section taken on the line 99 ofFig. 4,.as indicated by the arrows;

Fig. 10 is a horizontal section taken on the line 1010 of Fig. 4:, as indicated by the ar- 5 rows, and

Fig. 11 is a perspective view of a tubular cloth from which the garment may be made if desired.

In describing and claiming the present in vention, certain verbiage will be used throughout, which unless otherwise specified, will have the following meaning. The word, slip, unless otherwise designated, shall be talren to mean either such a garment as a princess slip, which is a name used in the garment tradeto designate a straight hangmg garment adapted to extend from the bust of a wearer to adjacent the knees ofthe wearer and which has a straight lower edge and is used as a protective garment in the nature of a petticoat, or the word slipf may mean an outer dress, an outer bathing garment or other garments which are constructed similar in most respects to a princess slip. The word drawers? unless otherwise designated, shall be taken to include any type of womans drawers such as stepins, teddies, bloomers, pants, panties etc. The words shoulderstr'aps shall be taken tonmean $0 straps which are adapted to be extended: over the shoulders of a wearer to support a garment therefrom. The word brassiere shall be taken to mean a garment in the nature of a brassiere, camisole, bandeau, or other types of breast supporter. The word .shirt, unless otherwise designated, shall be taken to mean a vest, shirt or similar garment commonly worn by women next to the skih and adaptedto extend fromadjacent the bust toa point below the hips. The words shadow hem shall be taken to mean a hem commonly provided in the lower portion of a garment in the nature of womens underwear, dresses or skirts to ppevent light from shining through the garment to expose the contour of the figure of the wearer to view. I

Referring to the drawings, the garment is preferably formed from a single long tubular piece of cloth. This tubular piece may be either made up as illustrated in the drawings, be of a length equal to the length of a shirt Figs. 1 to 10, from two similar flat rectangular blanks designated the front blank A and the back blank B respectively, the said blanks being stitched together at their sides from their bottom edges to the top edges, or the tubular piece may be formed from tubular woven material as illustrated in Fig. 11, wherein the front portion of the material may be considered to comprise the front blank C and the rear portion may be considered to comprise the rear blank D. Whichever type of tubular construction is adopted is immaterial and it will, of course, be understood that if desired the tubular piece may be formed from more than two pieces of cloth. 'Dhe material for the garment havingbeen made up as described, the same is placed on a flat surface and is folded at the sides so that if the two piece construction is used, the front blank A will lie directly on top of the rear blank B, while if the tubular construction illustrated in Fig. 11 is used, the front blank C will lie directly on top of the rear blank D. If the tubular construction illustrated in Fig. 11 is used, the front blank C will be cut, folded and sewed in the same manner as the front blank A hereinafter described, while the rear blank D will be cut, folded and sewed in the same manner as the rear blank B hereinafter described.

When the material for the garment has been placed as above described, the pattern for the garment will be laid out. Bot-h front and rear blanks A and Bwill be cut, folded and sewed the same except as hereinafter noted. It will thus be necessary to describe the pattern for only one blank as, for example, the blank A, whereupon variations from the blank A in the construction of the blank B may be specifically noted.

A fold line 12 is laid out on the blank A transversely of the same and is spaced from the lower end of the blank a distance equal to the desired length of the garment from the hips downwardly. This length is usually approximately equal to the distance from the hips to adjacent the knees of the person for whom the garment is being constructed hereinafter designated the wearer. A second transverse line 13 is laid out on the blank at 'twice the distance from the lower end of the blank as the line 12, while a third transverse fold line 14 is laid out at a distance from the line 13 equal to the desired length of the garment from the top edge thereof to the bottom .edge thereof. The distance between the lines adapted to fit the wearer; that is, the same will be of a length equal to the distance from above thebust of the wearer to a point slight- 1y below the crotch of the wearer. Drawer cuts are made in the blank longitudinally of the same adjacent the side edges thereof at 15 and adjacentthe center of the blank at 16. Cuts 15 and 16 extend upwardly from a level above the line 12 to adjacent the line 13, the cuts 16 being of slightly greater length than the cuts 15. A transverse cut 17 connects the two longitudinal cuts 16 to form drawer crotch strap portions 18, while transverse cuts 19 are made whichconnect the upper ends of cuts 15 with the cuts 16 to form drawer flap portions 20. Longitudinal cuts 21'are made between the lines 14 and 42' to form shoulder strap sections 22, while transverse cuts 23 are made in the blank on the line 42 to form brassiere side sections 24 and fiap section 25. Longitudinal cuts 26 are made at the top central portion of the blank to extend downwardly from the top and to form shirt crotch strap portions 27. The section of the blank.be-

tween the lower end of the same and line 12 will be designated outer shadow hem section 28; the section between lines 12 and 13 and not'included in the drawer crotch strap portions 18 or drawer flap portions 20 will be designated as inner shadow hem section 29; the section between the lines 13 and 14 will be designated slip section 30 and the section between the line 42 and the upper end of the blank will be designated shirt section 31.

After the two blanks A and B have been laid out and cut as above described, the garment may be made up. Pleats 32 and 32 folded on the longitudinal fold lines 33 coinciding in part with the cuts 21, as indicated in F ig. 1, are formed in the blanks A and B respectively to provide two pleats, one at the garment. The pleats 32 formed in frontblank A are folded outwardly towards the sides of the garment and stitched at their inner edges, while the pleats 32 formed in rear blank B are folded inwardly towards the center of the back of the garment and are stitched at their outer edges. Each of the shoulder strap sections 22 will accordingly be of a double thickness and the two thicknesses will be sewed together. The outer shadow hem sections 28 may now be folded inwardly and upwardly on thefold lines 12, whereupon both the inner shadow hem sec tions 29 and the outer shadow hem sections 28 will be folded upwardly and inwardly on the fold lines 13. The sections 28, 29 and 80 will then be stitched together as folded, to assume the position asbest illustrated in Figs. 2, 4, 8 and 10 of the drawings, leaving the drawer flap portions 20 and the drawer crotch strap portions 18 depending downwardly from adjacent the center of the slip sections 30 of the garment. The two drawer crotch strap portions 18 will be provided with cooperating fasteners preferably of the snap type'so that the two straps may be secured together to form a detachable crotch strap for a pair of drawers. The brassiere side sections 24 and the brassire' flap sections 25 will now be folded inwardly and downwardly on the fold lines 14, whereupon adjacent edges 21 of the sections 24 and 25 at the rear of the garment will be stitched together, to form an integral main brassiere section. The lower edges of the section so formed will be folded upwardly and stitched to form a draw string holder portion'34 for a draw string 35. The front flap section 25 will. be provided with rows of spaced half snap fasteners adjacent the side edges thereof, while the main brassiere section will be provided with two or more rows of spaced half snap fasteners 37 adjacent each of the front edges 21, the half snap fasteners 36 being adapted to co-op erate with the half'snap fasteners 37 to secure the front flap section 25 to the main brassiere section. The shirt sections 31 will be swung downwardly through the opening in the front blank A bet-ween the front shoulder strap sections 21 until the shirt section 33 of blank A.

abuts the brassiere sections of the blank B with the edge'23 of the shirt section adjacent "the line 14 of the blank B and until the shirt section 31 of blank B abuts the brassire section of blank A with its top edge 23 adjacent the line 14 of blank A. When the parts of the garment are in this position, the upper edges of the various brassiere, shirt and slip sections will be stitched at 38 and 39 to secure said parts together and to form a holder for an elastic band 40 which extends way around the top portion of the garment. The shoulder straps 22 formed from the rear blank B will then extend straight across from the rear side to the front of the garment without being twisted, while the strap sections 22 formed from the front blank A of the garmentwill extend from the front to the rear of the garment but will be twisted. To untwist strap sections 21 formed from the front blank A of the garment, the sections 21 will be cut from the front slip section 33 on the line 14 at 43 as shown in Fig. 1, whereupon the said front strap sections 21 will be untwisted and will be crossed over the rear shoulder strap sections 21 and secured to the upper edge of the front of the garment at points spaced sidewardlyfrom the forward ends of the strap sections 22 formed from the rear blank B. A pair of crossed shoulder straps will accordingly be provided at either side of the garment and extendingfrom thefront upper edge of the garment to the rear upper edge of the garment, the lower ends of co-operating straps being spaced from each other at both front of the garment.

and back. Ifdesired, co-operating half snap fasteners 44 may beprovided at the centers of co-operating straps 22, whereby the said straps may be releasably secured together at their centers. The shirt crotch strap portions 27 will be provided with co-operating half snap fasteners, whereby the same may be detaehably connected to form a crotch strap of drawers formed integral with the shirt sections of the garment. (lo-operating slits 41 are formed behind the pleats 32 in boththe front slip and shirt sections which'will form breast openings for a nursing mother. If desired, the various edges of the garment may be secured from unraveling by overcast stitching or stitched folds may be made at the various edges to prevent the unraveling of the goods.

The garment so const to be worn. The front-and rear slip sections 33 will form a straight hanging slip with a straight lower edge. The outer shadow hem sections 28 will form a shadow hem at the bottom of the slip extending upwardly from adjacent the knees of the wearer to adjacent the waist of the wearer. If desired, various portions ofthe outer shadow hem sections 28 may be cut away at points where the inner shadow hem sections 29 overlie the same to provide a cooler garment. The inner shadow hem sections 29 will form an additional shadow hem\at the bottom of the slip, while the sections and 18 will form a pair of drawers cut away from the inner shadow hem and integrally connected with the slip The main brassiere section formed from the side brassiere sections 24 and the back flap section 25, and the draw strings 35 together with the front flap section will form a. brassiere. The shirt sections 31 will form a shirt while the lower portion of the shirt together with the drawer crotch strap portions 27 will form a second set of drawers integral with the shirt. The shoulder strap sections 22 will form crossed shoulder straps for supporting the garment from the wearers shoulders. A garment will be provided which can be putv on or taken off as a unit at the same time and will provide all the necessary undergarments for womans wear.

A wearer can put on the garment by either slipping the same over her head or by stepping intd the same. When the garment is being put on over the head of the wearer, the draw string of the brassiere is untied and the half snap fasteners 36 of the front flap of the brassiere will be disengaged from the half snap fasteners 37. The crotch strap portions 18 and 27 will also be disengaged from each other.

assume the position illustrated in Fig. 7, whereupon the draw string 35 is tied to cause the brassihre to conform to the shape of the bust and the front flap 25 of the brassiere is engaged with the main brassiere section by means of the half snap fasteners 86 and 37. Due to the fact that several rows of half snap fasteners are provided on the main brassiere section, the sides of the brassiere may be adjusted when the parts of the brassiere are secured together. If it-is desired to use the drawers formed in the shirt either alone or with the drawers formed from the inner shadow hem of the garment, the crotch strapportions 27 will be united. If it is desired to use the drawers formed integral with the minor shadow hem of the garment either alone or with the drawers formed in the shirt, the

stances and properly support the garment.-

The elastic 40 will also help to retain the garment in position. The brassiere will support the bust of the wearer, while the slip will present an unbroken line from the bust to adjacent the knees of the wearer and will thus provide a slip of the true princess slip type now commonly being worn by women. The shadow hems at the bottom of the slip will act to prevent light from shining through the garment and exposing the contour of the figure of the wearer. drawers formed from the inner shadow hem as described, and byfolding a second shadow hem outwardly from the top of the first hem between the lower portion of the slip and the first hem a pair of drawers will be formed which will not pull inwardly on the lower portion of the slip to break the even hanging appearance of the same. The pull on the drawers will be exerted against the medial 'portion of the slip extending around the hips of the wearer. and this portion of the slip being of a size to just fitabout the hips, the slip cannot be pulled, out of shape and will retain its shape and will retain its smooth straight appearance. If desired, the wearer may put on the garment by stepping into the same instead of slipping the same over her head. lVhen this is done it will not be necessary to detach the crotch strap portions of the garment.

One of the chief advantages of the garment is that when the same is worn the wearer can put on or take off corsets without necessitating a removal of any clothing. This I may readily be done by detaching the crotch strap portions of the drawers formed in the shadowhem andby detaching the-draw string 35 and the front flap 25 ot the brassihre and By providing theprincess slip, the same may be used as an outer dress garment for women or children, or the slip may be slightly modified to form an outer portion of the garment into a bathing garment, a nurses uniform, a riding habit or similar garments. The construction of the drawers in both the slip and in the shirt may be considerably varied as desired to form any type of bloomers, stepins, teddies, panties, pants etc. The nursing openings 41 maybe left out it desired, .but when incorporated in the garment they will be found very convenient and handy for nursing mothers and will be unobservable from the outer side of the garment due to the pleats 32.

The garment will present a neat and attractive appearance and may be very readily cut out and put together. The various steps in making up the garment may be considerably varie-zl if desired and modifications in the cuts and folds in the garment may be'made if desired. If desired, certain portions of the garment may be left out entirely to allow other parts to be used alone. The quantity of material used in the complete garment is much less than that used in the various garments for which the present garment may be substituted.

It will, of course, be understood that various changes may be made in the form, de tails, arrangement and proportions of the various parts without departing from the scope of the present invention, which, generally stated, consists inthe matter shown and described and set forth in the appended claims.

l/Vhat is claimed is:

1. Anintegralcombination garment adapted to be put on and worn as a unit and including in combination a slip, a brassiere and a shirt all secured together adjacent the top edges, the shirt being innermost and depending downwardly and the brassiere depending downward between the slip and the shirt.

2. An integral combination garment adapted to be put on and worn as avunit, comprising a slip portion, an inner shadow hem portion folded upwardly from the lower end of said slip portion and an outer hem portion folded downwardly from the upper edge of said inner hem portion and extending be-v tween said slip' portion. and said inner hem lower end thereof to extend upwardly above the crotch of the wearer and form an inner shadow hem and then being outwardly folded from the top of said inner shadow hem to extend downwardly therefrom between the same and the lower portion of the slip to form an outer shadow hem, said inner shadow hem having a pair of drawers formed therefrom.

a womans garment point above the crotch of the wearer, a second portion extending downwardly outwardly from said first mentioned portion between the same and said slip, said first mentioned portion being cut at its forward and rear side to form three flaps at both front and than the side flaps and being releasably securable together to form a crotch strap of a pair of drawers.

6. An integralcombination garment adapted to be worn as a unit and formed from a single long tubular piece of cloth having a series of longitudinal cuts therein adjacent its upper end to form shoulder straps and a series of transverse cuts joining the upper ends of. said longitudinal cuts to form flaps depending downwardly inside the main portion of the garment, said flaps being secured together to form a brassiere and the main portion of said garment forming a slip.

7. The process of making a combination garment from a single piece of tubular cloth which consists in cutting slips adjacent the upper edge of the piece and longitudinally thereof to form shoulder straps, folding inwardly and downwardly the flaps left in the cloth after said straps are cut and securing said flaps together, whereby the main portion of Said cloth will form a slip and said flaps will form a brassiere.

8. The process of making a combination garment from a single piece of long tubular cloth which consists in cutting longitudinal slits in said cloth at spaced intervals above siere between said slip and shirt and securing the upper edges of said slip, brassiere and shirt together.

9. The process of making a combination garment which consists in providing a long tubular piece of cloth, folding the lower end of the cloth upwardly and inwardly to double the cloth adjacent its lower end, folding the doubled up portion upwardly and inwardly and cutting a pair of drawers from the innermost portion of the said cloth, whereby the outermost portion will form a slip, the medial portion will form a first shadow hem and the innermost portion will form a shadow hem from which drawers have been cut.

10. A womans garment comprising a slip adapted to fit the body of the wearer to extend from adjacent the bust to adjacent the knees, said slip being folded upwardly from its lower end to form a shadow hem, and the upper portion of said shadow hem being folded downwardly, on a line adapted to extend above the crotch of the wearer, between the lower portion of the slip and the upwardly extending portion of the shadow hem to ayers of the garment being secured together on said fold line above the crotch of the wearer, and there being drawers cut from the innermost layer of said garment.

11. The process of making a garment from a single piece of cloth which consists in cutting slits therein adjacent the upper middle portion of the cloth to form shoulder straps and folding downwardly the upper portion of the cloth against the lower portion thereof, to form a shirt, from the downwardly folded portion and a slip from the lower portion.

12. A womans garment comprising a slip adapted to fit the body of a wearer to extend fromadjacent the bust to adjacent the knees, said slip being folded upwardly from its lower end to form a shadow hem, and the upper portion of saidshadow hem being folded downwardly on a line adapted to extend above the crotch of the wearer, the three layers of the garment being secured together on said fold line above the crotchof the wearer, and there being drawers cut from the innermost layer of said garment.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature.

CHARLOTTE E. A'NsLEY.

the center thereof to form shoulder straps,

cutting transverse slits in said cloth between said straps adjacent one end thereof, folding said cloth so that the lower portion thereof forms a slip outwardly from said flaps and the upper portion of the cloth, and so that the upper portion of the cloth forms a shirt inwardly from said flaps. securing the side edges of said flaps together to form a bras;

adjacent the bottom of the garment, the three rear, the center flaps being of narrower width 1

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