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TWI522504B - Abrasion resistant polyester fiber, its manufacturing method and abrasion resistant knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abrasion resistant polyester fiber, its manufacturing method and abrasion resistant knitted fabric Download PDF

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TWI522504B
TWI522504B TW099125486A TW99125486A TWI522504B TW I522504 B TWI522504 B TW I522504B TW 099125486 A TW099125486 A TW 099125486A TW 99125486 A TW99125486 A TW 99125486A TW I522504 B TWI522504 B TW I522504B
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dtex
yarn
less
fabric
abrasion
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TW201204887A (en
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Junko Deguchi
Hiroshi Nishizaki
Yoshimasa Notsu
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Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp
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Description

耐磨耗性聚酯纖維、其製造方法及耐磨耗性編織物 Abrasion resistant polyester fiber, its manufacturing method and wear resistant braid

本發明係關於一種耐磨耗性良好之聚酯纖維及含有該纖維之編織物。The present invention relates to a polyester fiber having good abrasion resistance and a braid containing the fiber.

以聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯(以下稱作PET(polyethylene terephthalate))為代表之聚酯纖維由於力學特性及操作性優異,故而不論於衣料或布料上均用於廣泛之用途,因此業界正展開大量研究以開發出一種滿足符合各種用途之要求特性的纖維及製品。Polyester fibers represented by polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PET (polyethylene terephthalate)) are excellent in mechanical properties and workability, and therefore are used for a wide range of applications in clothing or fabrics. Extensive research has been conducted to develop fibers and articles that meet the required characteristics for various applications.

由含有聚酯纖維之編織物所構成之衣料或布料中,耐磨耗性係重要之要求特性之一,故謀求一種耐磨耗性優異之編織物。In the fabric or cloth composed of the woven fabric containing the polyester fiber, abrasion resistance is one of the important required characteristics, and therefore a knitted fabric excellent in abrasion resistance is sought.

於聚酯纖維主要以編織物之形狀而用於衣料、尤其是其是擋風夾克(windbreaker)、羽絨衣(down jacket)等外衣時,存在腋部或大腿部因穿著所產生之擦碰而起毛或破損之情形。又,尤其是用於戶外服裝(登山用、露營用等戶外活動用服裝)時,存在與其他物體劇烈摩擦(例如與帆布背包或繩索等之摩擦,或者與地面或山崖、草木之擦碰等)而起毛或破損之情形。When the polyester fiber is mainly used for the clothing in the shape of a woven fabric, especially when it is a windbreaker, a down jacket, or the like, there is a rubbing of the crotch or the thigh due to wearing. And the situation of fluffing or breakage. In addition, especially when used in outdoor clothing (climbing for outdoor activities such as mountaineering and camping), there is friction with other objects (for example, friction with a rucksack or rope, or rubbing against the ground or cliffs, grass, etc.) ) and the situation of fluffing or breakage.

於聚酯纖維主要以編物之形狀而用於衣料、尤其是運動上衣或短褲等運動服裝時,存在衣料彼此或與其他物體劇烈摩擦(例如選手彼此或與比賽用品之接觸、或者因滑行而發生之與地面之接觸等)而起毛或破損之情形。When the polyester fiber is mainly used in the shape of a knitted fabric for clothing, especially sportswear such as sports tops or shorts, there is a strong friction between the fabrics or other objects (for example, the players are in contact with each other or with the game articles, or occur due to sliding. In the case of contact with the ground, etc., which is caused by fluff or breakage.

通常,就磨耗之觀點而言,眾所周知聚酯纖維相比尼龍66等聚醯胺纖維稍差,但聚醯胺纖維容易產生光劣化或黃變,不適合使用於戶外之嚴酷環境之用途。因此,正在對聚酯纖維進行各種研究以改善其耐磨耗性。In general, from the viewpoint of abrasion, polyester fibers are known to be slightly inferior to polyamide fibers such as nylon 66, but polyamide fibers are liable to cause photodegradation or yellowing, and are not suitable for use in harsh outdoor environments. Therefore, various studies are being conducted on polyester fibers to improve their abrasion resistance.

自先前以來,已知有提高延伸倍率而獲得高強度聚酯之方法。又,以下之專利文獻1中,揭示有著力研究製造聚酯纖維時之延伸方法,而獲得高強度之聚酯纖維之方法。利用該等製造方法所得之紗雖然纖維軸方向之強度較高,但對於來自與纖維軸正交之方向等其他方向之外力的承受能力較弱,於衣料用材料之磨耗等係自所有方向產生磨耗之情形時,無法獲得充分之耐磨耗性。Since the prior art, a method of increasing the stretching ratio to obtain a high-strength polyester has been known. Further, Patent Document 1 below discloses a method of obtaining a high-strength polyester fiber by vigorously studying an elongation method in the production of a polyester fiber. The yarn obtained by the above-described production method has a high strength in the fiber axis direction, but has a weaker bearing force in other directions from the direction orthogonal to the fiber axis, and abrasion of the material for the clothing material is generated from all directions. In the case of wear, sufficient wear resistance cannot be obtained.

以下之專利文獻2中,提出有固有黏度與強度提高之具有扁平剖面的衣料用之耐磨耗性優異之捲縮紗。該捲縮紗係考慮用於衣料用途而形成為強度及配向提高之結構,但纖維軸以外之方向仍較脆,對自所有方向產生之磨耗之耐久性並不充分。In the following Patent Document 2, a crimped yarn excellent in abrasion resistance for a garment having a flat cross section and having an improved internal viscosity and strength is proposed. The crimping yarn is formed into a structure in which the strength and the alignment are improved in consideration of the use of the clothing, but the direction other than the fiber axis is still brittle, and the durability against wear from all directions is not sufficient.

亦提出各種於聚合物中加入添加物等而提高耐磨耗性之方法。例如,於以下之專利文獻3中,提出含有特殊之氧化矽粒子,以特定之結晶結構而提高配向之纖維。Various methods for improving the wear resistance by adding an additive or the like to the polymer have also been proposed. For example, in Patent Document 3 below, a fiber containing a specific cerium oxide particle and having a specific crystal structure to improve alignment is proposed.

然而,若含有粒子,則通常紗之強度下降。又,由於係配向提高之結構,故纖維軸以外之方向仍較脆,馬丁代爾磨耗(Martindale abrasion)之類之所有方向之磨耗性並不充分。However, if particles are contained, the strength of the yarn usually decreases. Moreover, due to the improved alignment structure, the direction other than the fiber axis is still brittle, and the wearability in all directions such as Martindale abrasion is not sufficient.

於以下之專利文獻4中,提出以下方法:為抑制用於織物經紗之交織紗因紗彼此以及與織機金屬部分摩擦而產生單紗斷頭及起毛,而於將聚酯未延伸紗延伸後,實施0.2~5%之鬆弛熱處理與流體交絡處理,藉此改善磨耗性。In the following Patent Document 4, a method is proposed in which a single yarn breakage and raising are caused by suppressing the interlaced yarns for the warp yarns of the fabric by the yarns and the metal portions of the loom, and after the polyester unstretched yarns are stretched, A relaxation heat treatment of 0.2 to 5% and fluid entanglement treatment are carried out, thereby improving the wearability.

然而,該方法雖可於某程度上抑制製造織物時因紗彼此以及與織機零件摩擦而引起之單紗斷頭及起毛,但難以防止衣料,尤其是擋風夾克、羽絨衣等外衣,運動上衣或短褲等運動服裝或者戶外服裝(登山用、露營用等戶外活動用服裝)等中因衣料彼此及與其他物體劇烈摩擦引起的破損。However, although this method can suppress the single yarn breakage and fuzzing caused by the yarns and the friction with the loom parts when manufacturing the fabric to some extent, it is difficult to prevent the clothing, especially the wind jacket, the down jacket and the like, the sports top. In the case of sportswear such as shorts or outdoor clothing (outdoor sports for mountaineering, camping, etc.), the fabric is damaged by friction with each other and other objects.

尤其是近年來,就由「布帛輕盈」(布帛每單位面積之重量較小)所帶來之穿著舒適感等觀點而言,編織物之薄質化需求日漸高漲。為使得編織物之質地較薄,只要使用細纖度之纖維即可,但存在所使用之纖維之纖度越細,則編織物之耐磨耗性越降低之傾向。因此,近年來,增強細纖度纖維之耐磨耗性之要求進一步提高。In particular, in recent years, the demand for the thinness of the woven fabric has been increasing from the viewpoint of the wearing comfort of the fabric (the weight of the fabric per unit area is small). In order to make the texture of the woven fabric thin, it is only necessary to use a fiber having a fine fineness, but the finer the fineness of the fiber to be used, the lower the abrasion resistance of the woven fabric. Therefore, in recent years, the demand for enhancing the abrasion resistance of fine-denier fibers has been further increased.

[先前技術文獻][Previous Technical Literature] [專利文獻][Patent Literature]

[專利文獻1]日本專利特開平4-245918號公報[Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Hei 4-245918

[專利文獻2]日本專利特開昭63-309638號公報[Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. SHO 63-309638

[專利文獻3]日本專利第3277703號公報[Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent No. 3277703

[專利文獻4]日本專利特開昭58-18431號公報[Patent Document 4] Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. SHO 58-18431

本發明所欲解決之課題在於為改善衣料用、尤其是使用細纖度聚酯纖維之編織物之耐磨耗性,而提供一種將強度、伸長率、應力-應變曲線上之特定伸長率範圍之楊式模數等聚酯纖維之物性規定在特定範圍內的耐磨耗性聚酯纖維。The object of the present invention is to provide a specific elongation range on the strength, elongation and stress-strain curves for improving the abrasion resistance of fabrics, especially those using fine-denier polyester fibers. The physical properties of the polyester fiber such as the Young's modulus are specified to be abrasion resistant polyester fibers within a specific range.

本發明所欲解決之課題亦在於提供一種包含上述聚酯纖維之編織物,該編織物在用作衣料、尤其是擋風夾克、羽絨衣等外衣時不易因腋部或大腿部之擦碰而起毛或破損,尤其是在用作運動服裝、戶外服裝時於衣料彼此或與其他物體之各種摩擦下亦不易起毛或破損,且手感良好。The problem to be solved by the present invention is also to provide a woven fabric comprising the above-mentioned polyester fiber, which is not easily rubbed by the crotch or the thigh when used as a clothing material, especially a wind jacket, a down jacket, or the like. However, when fluffing or breakage, especially when used as sportswear or outdoor clothing, it is not easy to fluff or break under the rubbing of the fabrics or other objects, and the hand feels good.

本發明等人為解決上述課題而銳意研究並反覆實驗,結果發現,對於聚酯纖維,藉由於延伸處理後進行特定範圍之鬆弛熱處理,可將聚酯纖維之物性,尤其是強度、伸長率、應力-應變曲線上之微分楊式模數規定在特定範圍內,從而可獲得耐磨耗性得到改善之聚酯纖維。本發明者等人發現,含有此種耐磨耗性得到改善之聚酯纖維之織物或編物(以下總稱為「編織物」)尤其是對於防止由與其他物體劇烈接觸而引起之破損有效。The present inventors have intensively studied and repeated experiments to solve the above problems, and as a result, found that for polyester fibers, physical properties of polyester fibers, particularly strength, elongation, and stress, can be obtained by performing a specific range of relaxation heat treatment after stretching treatment. - The differential Young's modulus on the strain curve is specified within a specific range, so that a polyester fiber having improved wear resistance can be obtained. The present inventors have found that a woven fabric or a knitted fabric (hereinafter collectively referred to as "knitted fabric") containing such a polyester fiber having improved abrasion resistance is particularly effective for preventing breakage caused by strong contact with other objects.

亦即,本發明係如下所述者。That is, the present invention is as follows.

[1]一種聚酯纖維,其特徵在於:其係以對苯二甲酸乙二酯作為95莫耳%以上之重複單元的耐磨耗性聚酯纖維,且滿足以下之必要條件(1)~(5):[1] A polyester fiber characterized in that it is an abrasion-resistant polyester fiber having ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit of 95 mol% or more, and satisfies the following requirements (1)~ (5):

(1)纖度為8 dtex以上、200 dtex以下;(1) The fineness is 8 dtex or more and 200 dtex or less;

(2)單紗纖度為1.0 dtex以上、4.0 dtex以下;(2) The single yarn fineness is 1.0 dtex or more and 4.0 dtex or less;

(3)斷裂強度為3.5 cN/dtex以上;(3) The breaking strength is 3.5 cN/dtex or more;

(4)斷裂伸長率為20%以上、50%以下;且(4) The elongation at break is 20% or more and 50% or less;

(5)纖維之應力-應變曲線上伸長率為2%以上、5%以下之區域之最小微分楊式模數為20 cN/dtex以下。(5) The minimum differential Young's modulus of the region on the stress-strain curve of the fiber of 2% or more and 5% or less is 20 cN/dtex or less.

[2]如上述[1]之聚酯纖維,其進而滿足以下之必要條件(6):[2] The polyester fiber according to [1] above, which further satisfies the following requirements (6):

(6)紗磨耗強度為0.5次/dtex以上。(6) The yarn abrasion strength is 0.5 times/dtex or more.

[3]如上述[1]之聚酯纖維,其進而滿足以下之必要條件(7):[3] The polyester fiber according to [1] above, which further satisfies the following requirements (7):

(7)極限黏度為0.70 dl/g以上、1.30 dl/g以下。(7) The ultimate viscosity is 0.70 dl/g or more and 1.30 dl/g or less.

[4]如上述[1]至[3]中任一項之聚酯纖維,其進而滿足以下之必要條件(8):[4] The polyester fiber according to any one of [1] to [3] above which further satisfies the following requirement (8):

(8)結晶度為60%~90%,且配向度為0.70~0.92。(8) The crystallinity is 60% to 90%, and the degree of alignment is 0.70 to 0.92.

[5]一種耐磨耗性織物,其係含有如上述[1]至[4]中任一項之聚酯纖維者。[5] An abrasion-resistant fabric comprising the polyester fiber according to any one of [1] to [4] above.

[6]如上述[5]之耐磨耗性織物,其係馬丁代爾磨耗試驗之重量減少率在3萬次下為5%以下之織物。[6] The abrasion resistant fabric according to [5] above, which is a fabric having a weight reduction rate of 5% or less under 30,000 times in the Martindale abrasion test.

[7]如上述[5]或[6]之耐磨耗性織物,其係織物組織為格紋塔夫塔綢之織物。[7] The abrasion resistant fabric of the above [5] or [6], wherein the woven fabric is a woven taffeta fabric.

[8]一種耐磨耗性編物,其含有如上述[1]至[4]中任一項之聚酯纖維。[8] An abrasion resistant knitted fabric comprising the polyester fiber according to any one of [1] to [4] above.

[9]如上述[8]之耐磨耗性編物,其單位面積重量為80~350 g/m2[9] The abrasion resistant knitted fabric according to the above [8], which has a basis weight of 80 to 350 g/m 2 .

[10]一種如上述[1]至[4]中任一項之耐磨耗性聚酯纖維之製造方法,其係包括以下步驟:對極限黏度為0.70 dl/g以上、1.30 dl/g以下之聚酯進行熔融紡紗;以極限延伸倍率之65%以上、85%以下之延伸倍率進行延伸處理;繼而於120℃以上、220℃以下之熱處理溫度下,以5%以上、15%以下之鬆弛率進行鬆弛熱處理。[10] The method for producing an abrasion resistant polyester fiber according to any one of the above [1] to [4], which comprises the step of setting the ultimate viscosity to 0.70 dl/g or more and 1.30 dl/g or less. The polyester is melt-spun; the elongation treatment is performed at a stretching ratio of 65% or more and 85% or less of the ultimate stretching ratio; and then, at a heat treatment temperature of 120 ° C or more and 220 ° C or less, 5% or more and 15% or less. The relaxation rate is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment.

[11]如上述[10]之耐磨耗性聚酯纖維之製造方法,其中於延伸處理後暫時捲取,然後進行鬆弛熱處理。[11] The method for producing an abrasion-resistant polyester fiber according to [10] above, wherein the stretching is temporarily performed after the stretching treatment, and then the relaxation heat treatment is performed.

[12]如上述[10]之耐磨耗性聚酯纖維之製造方法,其中繼延伸處理之後,不暫時捲取而進行鬆弛熱處理。[12] The method for producing an abrasion-resistant polyester fiber according to [10] above, wherein after the relay stretching treatment, the relaxation heat treatment is performed without temporarily winding up.

[13]如上述[5]至[7]中任一項之耐磨耗織物之製造方法,其中於染色加工步驟中,在定型時進行鬆弛熱處理。[13] The method for producing an abrasion resistant fabric according to any one of the above [5] to [7] wherein, in the dyeing processing step, a relaxation heat treatment is performed at the time of setting.

[14]如上述[13]之耐磨耗織物之製造方法,其中對含有經以180~200℃進行假撚加工之聚酯纖維之織物,於假撚溫度以上之溫度下進行鬆弛熱處理。[14] The method for producing an abrasion resistant fabric according to [13] above, wherein the fabric containing the polyester fiber subjected to false twist processing at 180 to 200 ° C is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment at a temperature higher than a false twist temperature.

[15]如上述[8]或[9]之耐磨耗編物之製造方法,其中於染色加工步驟中,在定型時進行鬆弛熱處理。[15] The method for producing an abrasion resistant fabric according to [8] or [9] above, wherein in the dyeing processing step, the relaxation heat treatment is performed at the time of setting.

[16]如上述[15]之耐磨耗編物之製造方法,其中對含有經以180~200℃進行假撚加工之聚酯纖維之編物,於假撚溫度以上之溫度下進行鬆弛熱處理。[16] The method for producing an abrasion resistant fabric according to the above [15], wherein the knitted fabric comprising the polyester fiber subjected to false twist processing at 180 to 200 ° C is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment at a temperature higher than a false twist temperature.

根據本發明,可獲得一種耐磨耗性良好,尤其是適合薄質編織物之聚酯纖維以及含有該纖維之編織物。使用該纖維之編織物在用作衣料,尤其是製成擋風夾克、羽絨衣等外衣而穿著時不易因腋部或大腿部之擦碰而起毛或破損,其中尤其在製成戶外服裝而穿著時對於衣料彼此或與其他物體之劇烈接觸摩擦之耐受性強,且係手感良好之衣料。又,可使該等要求耐磨耗性之衣料達成輕量薄質化。According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a polyester fiber which is excellent in abrasion resistance, particularly suitable for a thin woven fabric, and a woven fabric containing the same. The woven fabric of the fiber is used for clothing, especially when it is made into a windbreaker, a down jacket, and the like, and is not easily fluffed or broken due to rubbing of the crotch or the thigh, especially in the case of making an outdoor garment. When worn, it is highly resistant to the strong contact friction of the clothing materials with each other or with other objects, and is a clothing material with a good hand feeling. Moreover, the fabric which is required to have abrasion resistance can be made lighter and thinner.

又,若將本發明之聚酯纖維用於編物,則可提供一種在穿著運動上衣或運動短褲、緊身運動套衫(jersey)等運動服裝時不易因腋部或大腿部之擦碰而起毛或破損,且在比賽中或訓練中於地面或地板面上發生擦碰時亦難以產生起毛或破損之服裝,進而亦可提供一種抑制勾絲之效果亦優異之編物。又,可使該等要求耐磨耗性之衣料達成輕量薄質化。Moreover, if the polyester fiber of the present invention is used for knitting, it is possible to provide a hair garment that is not easily rubbed by the rubbing of the crotch or the thigh when wearing a sports top or a sports short, a sportswear such as a jersey. It is also difficult to produce clothing that is fluffed or damaged when it is rubbed on the floor or on the floor during competition or training. It can also provide a fabric that is excellent in suppressing the effect of the hook. Moreover, the fabric which is required to have abrasion resistance can be made lighter and thinner.

以下,對本發明進行詳細說明。Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

於本發明中,所謂耐磨耗性,係指纖維表面抵抗在其他物體表面擦碰時之摩擦力(剪切力)的性能。通常,纖維會因擦碰而產生單紗中之原纖維如絨毛般顯露於單紗表面的現象(原纖維化)。通常,若產生原纖維化,則布帛表面之例如創意性、耐久性等降低,故原纖維化係一種不良現象。因此,為提高耐磨耗性,如何防止原纖維化成為要點所在。In the present invention, the term "wear resistance" refers to the property of the fiber surface against friction (shearing force) when rubbed against the surface of other objects. In general, fibers are caused by rubbing to cause a phenomenon in which fibrils in a single yarn are exposed to the surface of a single yarn (fibrillation). In general, when fibrillation occurs, the surface of the fabric is reduced in creativity, durability, and the like, and fibrillation is a problem. Therefore, in order to improve the wear resistance, how to prevent fibrillation becomes the main point.

於通常條件下進行延伸之聚酯纖維之結晶度較高,且分子於纖維長度方向上呈現較高之配向狀態,本發明之聚酯纖維例如藉由在延伸處理後進行特定範圍之鬆弛熱處理而將纖維中之聚酯分子之朝向打亂,從而形成配向度降低(以下亦稱作配向緩和),且聚酯纖維之物性、尤其是強度、伸長率及應力-應變曲線(S-S曲線)上之微分楊式模數在特定範圍內之聚酯纖維。The polyester fiber extended under normal conditions has a high degree of crystallinity, and the molecule exhibits a higher alignment state in the fiber length direction, and the polyester fiber of the present invention is subjected to a specific range of relaxation heat treatment, for example, after the elongation treatment. The orientation of the polyester molecules in the fibers is disturbed to form a decrease in the degree of alignment (hereinafter also referred to as alignment relaxation), and the physical properties of the polyester fibers, particularly the strength, elongation and stress-strain curve (SS curve) A polyester fiber having a differential Young's modulus in a specific range.

圖1表示本發明之聚酯纖維的具有代表性之應力-應變曲線(S-S曲線)。如圖1所示,本發明之聚酯纖維具有於低伸長率區域具有平坦之部分,其後楊式模數升高之特徵性曲線。Fig. 1 shows a representative stress-strain curve (S-S curve) of the polyester fiber of the present invention. As shown in Fig. 1, the polyester fiber of the present invention has a characteristic curve having a flat portion in a low elongation region and an increase in the Young's modulus.

圖2表示將圖1之伸長率微分而得之圖即微分楊式模數-應變曲線。如圖2所示,本發明之聚酯纖維於伸長率2~5%之範圍內具有極小值,於伸長率10~15%之範圍內具有極大值。具體而言,如圖2所示般,本發明中所得之紗於伸長率2%以上、5%以下的微分楊式模數之極小值為20 cN/dtex以下,於伸長率10~15%之範圍內,達到23 cN/dtex以上作為極大值。Fig. 2 is a graph showing the differential Young's modulus-strain curve obtained by differentiating the elongation of Fig. 1. As shown in Fig. 2, the polyester fiber of the present invention has a minimum value in the range of elongation of 2 to 5%, and has a maximum value in the range of elongation of 10 to 15%. Specifically, as shown in FIG. 2, the yarn obtained in the present invention has a minimum value of 20 cN/dtex or less at an elongation of 2% or more and 5% or less, and an elongation of 10 to 15%. Within the range, it is above 23 cN/dtex as the maximum value.

一般認為,藉由配向緩和而具有上述微分楊式模數行為的本發明之聚酯纖維在纖維表面施加有摩擦力(剪切力)時,摩擦力(剪切力)所產生之能量由聚酯分子之配向增加大量消耗,故不易產生原纖維化。It is considered that when the polyester fiber of the present invention having the above-described differential Young's modulus function by the alignment relaxation exerts a frictional force (shearing force) on the surface of the fiber, the energy generated by the frictional force (shearing force) is determined by the polyester. The alignment of the molecules is increased in a large amount, so that fibrillation is less likely to occur.

本發明之聚酯纖維中所使用之聚酯含有對苯二甲酸乙二酯作為主要重複單元,且係以95莫耳%以上,較佳為97莫耳%以上,更佳為99莫耳%以上含有對苯二甲酸乙二酯作為重複單元。可以100莫耳%之對苯二甲酸乙二酯作為重複單元,亦可包含未達5莫耳%之其他酯之重複單元。即,本發明之聚酯纖維中所使用之聚合物可為PET單一結構,亦可為與未達5莫耳%之其他酯之重複單元的共聚合PET。The polyester used in the polyester fiber of the present invention contains ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit, and is 95 mol% or more, preferably 97 mol% or more, more preferably 99 mol%. The above contains ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit. 100 mol% of ethylene terephthalate may be used as a repeating unit, and may also contain less than 5 mol% of other ester repeating units. That is, the polymer used in the polyester fiber of the present invention may be a PET single structure or a copolymerized PET having a repeating unit of less than 5 mol% of other esters.

作為共聚合成分之代表例,可列舉以下者。Typical examples of the copolymerization component include the following.

作為酸性成分,有以間苯二甲酸及間苯二甲酸-5-磺酸鈉為代表之芳香族二羧酸、以己二酸及衣康酸為代表之脂肪族二羧酸等。作為二醇成分,有乙二醇、丁二醇、聚乙二醇等。Examples of the acidic component include an aromatic dicarboxylic acid represented by isophthalic acid and sodium isophthalate-5-sulfonate, and an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid represented by adipic acid and itaconic acid. Examples of the diol component include ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol.

又,亦可列舉羥基苯甲酸等羥基羧酸。亦可使該等之複數種共聚合。Further, a hydroxycarboxylic acid such as hydroxybenzoic acid may also be mentioned. It is also possible to copolymerize a plurality of these.

進而,於本發明之聚酯纖維中,可於不妨礙本發明之效果之範圍內含有氧化鈦等消光劑、熱穩定劑、抗氧化劑、抗靜電劑、紫外線吸收劑、抗菌劑、各種顏料等添加劑,或者亦可藉由共聚合而含有該等成分。Further, in the polyester fiber of the present invention, a matting agent such as titanium oxide, a heat stabilizer, an antioxidant, an antistatic agent, an ultraviolet absorber, an antibacterial agent, various pigments, etc. may be contained in a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. The additive may also contain these components by copolymerization.

本發明之聚酯纖維之纖度為8 dtex以上、200 dtex以下,於用於織物之情形時,較佳為8 dtex以上、100 dtex以下。進而較佳之範圍為10 dtex以上、84 dtex以下。若未達8 dtex,則纖度過細,故編織步驟中纖維之操作變得困難。若超過100 dtex,則衣料用薄質織物之厚度變厚,手感欠佳。尤其本發明之效果對於細纖度亦有效,特別是於10~30 dtex之細紗支中亦發揮優異之耐磨耗性。因此,使用該等細纖度之紗的輕量、薄質之織物,尤其是單位面積重量為40 g/m2以下之織物可發揮優異之耐磨耗性。The polyester fiber of the present invention has a fineness of 8 dtex or more and 200 dtex or less, and when used for a woven fabric, it is preferably 8 dtex or more and 100 dtex or less. Further preferably, the range is 10 dtex or more and 84 dtex or less. If it is less than 8 dtex, the fineness is too fine, so the operation of the fiber in the weaving step becomes difficult. If it exceeds 100 dtex, the thickness of the thin fabric for clothing is thick, and the hand feel is not good. In particular, the effects of the present invention are also effective for fine denier, and particularly excellent abrasion resistance in a spun yarn of 10 to 30 dtex. Therefore, a lightweight, thin fabric using these fine-denier yarns, particularly a fabric having a basis weight of 40 g/m 2 or less, can exhibit excellent wear resistance.

另一方面,於用於編物之情形時,本發明之聚酯纖維之纖度較佳為20 dtex~200 dtex。更佳之範圍為30 dtex~175 dtex。若未達20 dtex,則纖度過細,故編製時容易產生斷頭,耐磨耗性差,另一方面,若超過200 dtex,則紗變硬,編物之手感欠佳。本發明之聚酯纖維所發揮之耐磨耗性效果對於細纖度亦有效,尤其是於30~84 dtex之細紗支中亦發揮優異之耐磨耗性。其結果,使用該等紗的輕量、薄質之編物,例如單位面積重量為120 g/m2以下之編物亦具有優異之耐磨耗性。On the other hand, in the case of being used for knitting, the fineness of the polyester fiber of the present invention is preferably from 20 dtex to 200 dtex. A better range is 30 dtex to 175 dtex. If it is less than 20 dtex, the fineness is too fine, so breakage is likely to occur during the preparation, and the wear resistance is poor. On the other hand, if it exceeds 200 dtex, the yarn becomes hard and the texture of the knitted fabric is not good. The abrasion resistance effect exerted by the polyester fiber of the present invention is also effective for fineness, and particularly excellent abrasion resistance in a fine yarn of 30 to 84 dtex. As a result, lightweight, thin braids using these yarns, for example, knitted fabrics having a basis weight of 120 g/m 2 or less, also have excellent wear resistance.

本發明之聚酯纖維之單紗纖度為1.0 dtex以上、4.0 dtex以下,較佳為1.0 dtex以上、3.1 dtex以下。於單紗纖度未達1.0 dtex之情形時,耐磨耗性欠佳,另一方面,若單紗纖度超過4 dtex,則雖耐磨耗性變得良好,但纖維變硬,故編物之手感欠佳,亦容易刺激皮膚。The single yarn fineness of the polyester fiber of the present invention is 1.0 dtex or more and 4.0 dtex or less, preferably 1.0 dtex or more and 3.1 dtex or less. When the single yarn fineness is less than 1.0 dtex, the wear resistance is not good. On the other hand, if the single yarn fineness exceeds 4 dtex, the abrasion resistance becomes good, but the fiber becomes hard, so the texture feels. Poor, it is also easy to irritate the skin.

本發明之聚酯纖維之斷裂強度為3.5 cN/dtex以上,較佳為4.0 cN/dtex以上,更佳為4.5 cN/dtex以上。若斷裂強度未達3.5 cN/dtex,則耐磨耗性欠佳。斷裂強度係值越大則對於提高磨耗性而言越佳之特性值,但若為6.0 cN/dtex以上,則纖維變硬,故於耐磨耗性方面欠佳。The polyester fiber of the present invention has a breaking strength of 3.5 cN/dtex or more, preferably 4.0 cN/dtex or more, more preferably 4.5 cN/dtex or more. If the breaking strength is less than 3.5 cN/dtex, the wear resistance is poor. The larger the breaking strength coefficient, the better the value of the property for improving the abrasion resistance. However, if it is 6.0 cN/dtex or more, the fiber becomes hard, which is not preferable in terms of abrasion resistance.

斷裂伸長率為20%以上、50%以下,較佳為30%以上、45%以下之範圍。若斷裂伸長率未達20%,則纖維中之聚酯分子之配向度增加,故容易產生原纖維化,無法獲得良好之耐磨耗性,另一方面,若斷裂伸長率超過50%,則難以使斷裂強度達到3.5 cN/dtex以上,故無法達成本發明之目的。The elongation at break is 20% or more and 50% or less, preferably 30% or more and 45% or less. If the elongation at break is less than 20%, the degree of alignment of the polyester molecules in the fiber is increased, so that fibrillation is likely to occur, and good abrasion resistance cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the elongation at break exceeds 50%, It is difficult to achieve a breaking strength of 3.5 cN/dtex or more, and thus the object of the present invention cannot be achieved.

於本發明中,纖維之應力-應變曲線上伸長率為2%以上、5%以下之區域之最小微分楊式模數為20 cN/dtex以下,較佳為2~15 cN/dtex,更佳為4~10 cN/dtex。若超過20 cN/dtex,則利用鬆弛熱處理而獲得的纖維中之聚酯分子之配向緩和不充分,會因摩擦力(剪切力)而產生原纖維化,故耐磨耗性欠佳。In the present invention, the minimum differential Young's modulus of the region on the stress-strain curve of the fiber of 2% or more and 5% or less is 20 cN/dtex or less, preferably 2 to 15 cN/dtex, more preferably 4~10 cN/dtex. When it exceeds 20 cN/dtex, the alignment of the polyester molecules in the fiber obtained by the relaxation heat treatment is insufficient, and fibrillation occurs due to the frictional force (shearing force), so that the abrasion resistance is unsatisfactory.

本發明之聚酯纖維較佳為紗磨耗試驗之紗磨耗強度為0.5次/dtex以上。更佳為紗磨耗強度為0.6~2.0次/dtex。紗磨耗強度可使用圖10所示之紗磨耗試驗機進行評價。將紗切成20 cm,以總纖度達到167 dtex左右之方式將數根紗對齊,進行10次/m左右之扭撚。對貼附有#800之研磨紙的直徑1 cm之金屬棒施加0.14 g/dtex之負載,並使其與紗接觸。使該金屬棒以0.6次/秒之速度、3 cm之振幅摩擦紗,將直至紗斷裂為止之次數(將1個往返作為1次)作為紗磨耗次數。以不改變研磨紙之狀態之方式摩擦10次,且每摩擦10次後挪動一次研磨紙而使研磨紙以新的狀態進行摩擦。紗磨耗強度係由下述式(3):The polyester fiber of the present invention preferably has a yarn abrasion strength of 0.5 times/dtex or more in the yarn abrasion test. More preferably, the yarn wear strength is 0.6 to 2.0 times/dtex. The yarn abrasion strength can be evaluated using the yarn abrasion tester shown in Fig. 10. The yarn was cut into 20 cm, and the several yarns were aligned in such a manner that the total fineness was about 167 dtex, and the twist was performed about 10 times/m. A load of 0.14 g/dtex was applied to a metal rod having a diameter of 1 cm to which the #800 abrasive paper was attached, and brought into contact with the yarn. The metal bar was rubbed at a speed of 0.6 times/second and an amplitude of 3 cm, and the number of times until the yarn was broken (one round trip was made once) was taken as the number of yarn abrasions. The rubbing paper was rubbed 10 times in such a manner that the state of the abrasive paper was not changed, and the abrasive paper was moved once after each rubbing 10 times to rub the abrasive paper in a new state. The yarn wear strength is determined by the following formula (3):

紗磨耗強度=紗磨耗次數/用於試驗之紗之總纖度 (3)Yarn wear strength = number of yarn wear / total fineness of yarn used for testing (3)

而計算出。And calculated.

將本發明之聚酯纖維用於編織物時,可為未經扭撚之狀態,或者亦可為提高集束性而施以交絡或扭撚。When the polyester fiber of the present invention is used for a woven fabric, it may be in an untwisted state, or may be entangled or twisted to improve the bundling property.

繼而,對本發明之聚酯纖維之製造方法進行闡述。Next, a method of producing the polyester fiber of the present invention will be described.

用於本發明之聚酯纖維之極限黏度較佳為0.70 dl/g以上、1.30 dl/g以下之範圍,更佳為0.75 dl/g以上、1.10 dl/g以下之範圍。若極限黏度為0.70 dl/g以上,則可改善所得纖維之耐磨耗性。又,若極限黏度超過1.30 dl/g,則雖耐磨耗性變得良好,但手感較硬,作為用於衣料用編織物之纖維而言欠佳。The ultimate viscosity of the polyester fiber used in the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.70 dl/g or more and 1.30 dl/g or less, more preferably 0.75 dl/g or more and 1.10 dl/g or less. If the ultimate viscosity is 0.70 dl/g or more, the abrasion resistance of the obtained fiber can be improved. In addition, when the ultimate viscosity exceeds 1.30 dl/g, the abrasion resistance is good, but the hand feel is hard, and it is not preferable as a fiber for a knitted fabric for clothing.

於本發明之聚酯纖維之製造中,重要的是將未延伸紗以極限延伸倍率之65%以上、85%以下,較佳為70%以上、80%以下進行延伸後進行鬆弛熱處理。於將未延伸紗之斷裂伸長率設為(E)之情形時,未延伸紗之極限延伸倍率(MD)係以MD=(E+100)/100而表示。於以未達極限延伸倍率之65%之延伸倍率進行延伸時,難以使斷裂強度達到3.5 cN/dtex以上,故無法達成本發明之目的。於以超過極限延伸倍率之85%之延伸倍率進行延伸之情形時,鬆弛熱處理時會頻繁產生斷頭。In the production of the polyester fiber of the present invention, it is important that the unstretched yarn is stretched at a limit stretching ratio of 65% or more and 85% or less, preferably 70% or more and 80% or less, and then subjected to a relaxation heat treatment. When the elongation at break of the unstretched yarn is (E), the ultimate stretch ratio (MD) of the undrawn yarn is expressed by MD = (E + 100) / 100. When the elongation is not achieved at a stretching ratio of 65% of the ultimate stretching ratio, it is difficult to achieve a breaking strength of 3.5 cN/dtex or more, and the object of the present invention cannot be attained. In the case of stretching at a stretching ratio exceeding 85% of the ultimate stretching ratio, breakage is frequently generated during the relaxation heat treatment.

本發明之特徵在於:於紡紗時、紡紗後、加工編織物時等纖維及編織物製造步驟之任一步驟中實施鬆弛熱處理。藉由鬆弛熱處理,可提高結晶度,抑制配向度。在纖維之紡紗時或紡紗後於紗之狀態下進行鬆弛熱處理時,熱處理溫度較佳為120℃以上、220℃以下之溫度範圍,更佳為150℃以上、200℃以下。若溫度未達120℃,則聚酯本身之配向效果較低,因此即便組合鬆弛熱處理,纖維中之聚酯分子之配向緩和效果亦不充分,無法獲得良好之耐磨耗性,另一方面,若超過220℃,則接近聚酯之熔點,故容易因熱處理而產生起毛或斷頭。The present invention is characterized in that a relaxation heat treatment is performed in any of the steps of the fiber and the braid manufacturing step at the time of spinning, after spinning, and processing of the knitted fabric. By relaxation heat treatment, crystallinity can be improved and the degree of alignment can be suppressed. When the relaxation heat treatment is performed in the state of spinning the fiber or in the state of the yarn after the spinning, the heat treatment temperature is preferably in the range of 120 ° C or more and 220 ° C or less, more preferably 150 ° C or more and 200 ° C or less. If the temperature is less than 120 ° C, the alignment effect of the polyester itself is low. Therefore, even if the relaxation heat treatment is combined, the effect of the coordination of the polyester molecules in the fibers is insufficient, and good abrasion resistance cannot be obtained. If it exceeds 220 ° C, the melting point of the polyester is approached, so that it is easy to cause fuzzing or breakage due to heat treatment.

本發明之於紗狀態下進行鬆弛熱處理時之鬆弛率較佳為5%以上、15%以下,更佳為7%以上、12%以下。鬆弛率係使用圖8中之供給輥14之速度(Vk)與鬆弛輥16之速度(Vr)、或圖9中之第2輥11之速度(V2)與第3輥20之速度(V3),藉由鬆弛率=((Vk-Vr)/Vk)×100、或((V2-V3)/V2)×100之式而求出。於使用圖8、圖9所示之裝置以外之裝置進行鬆弛熱處理時,鬆弛率亦可同樣地藉由熱處理前後之紗速度(通常以輥速度表示)之比率而求出。The relaxation rate in the relaxation heat treatment in the yarn state of the present invention is preferably 5% or more and 15% or less, more preferably 7% or more and 12% or less. The relaxation rate is the speed (Vk) of the supply roller 14 in Fig. 8 and the speed (Vr) of the slack roller 16, or the speed (V 2 ) of the second roller 11 in Fig. 9 and the speed of the third roller 20 (V). 3 ), obtained by the relaxation rate = ((Vk - Vr) / Vk) × 100, or ((V 2 - V 3 ) / V 2 ) × 100. When the relaxation heat treatment is performed using an apparatus other than the apparatus shown in Figs. 8 and 9, the relaxation rate can be similarly obtained by the ratio of the yarn speed before and after the heat treatment (usually expressed by the roll speed).

若鬆弛率未達5%,則纖維中之聚酯分子之配向緩和效果不充分,無法獲得良好之耐磨耗性,另一方面,若鬆弛率超過15%,則鬆弛熱處理時之步驟張力降低,紡紗性欠佳。If the relaxation rate is less than 5%, the effect of the coordination of the polyester molecules in the fibers is insufficient, and good abrasion resistance cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the relaxation rate exceeds 15%, the step tension during the relaxation heat treatment is lowered. , the spinning property is not good.

如此般,藉由於延伸後,為緩和纖維中之聚酯分子之熱收縮及配向而進行鬆弛熱處理,可獲得伸長率2%以上、5%以下之區域之最小微分楊式模數為20 cN/dtex以下,耐磨耗性提高之纖維。關於鬆弛熱處理,可利用圖8所示之裝置,對藉由圖7所示之紡紗裝置延伸並暫時捲取之纖維進行,或者亦可如圖9所示,繼延伸之後不暫時捲取而進行熱處理。鬆弛熱處理時紗張力降低,就於低張力下穩定地進行鬆弛熱處理之觀點而言,較佳為進行延伸並暫時捲取後,如圖8所示般以紗藉由重力而自上向下移動之方式拉取紗。In this way, by stretching, the relaxation heat treatment is performed to relax the heat shrinkage and alignment of the polyester molecules in the fiber, and the minimum differential Young's modulus of the region having an elongation of 2% or more and 5% or less can be obtained as 20 cN/dtex. Hereinafter, the fiber having improved abrasion resistance. Regarding the relaxation heat treatment, the fiber which is extended and temporarily wound by the spinning device shown in FIG. 7 may be used by the apparatus shown in FIG. 8, or may be temporarily not taken up after being extended as shown in FIG. Heat treatment is performed. In the relaxation heat treatment, the yarn tension is lowered, and from the viewpoint of stably performing the relaxation heat treatment under low tension, it is preferable to carry out the stretching and temporarily take-up, and as shown in Fig. 8, the yarn is moved from top to bottom by gravity. The way to pull the yarn.

又,亦可藉由在製造編織物後之染色及熱定型步驟中選擇使編織物之尺寸變小之條件,而作為編織物中之纖維之鬆弛熱處理。Further, it is also possible to use a relaxation heat treatment of the fibers in the woven fabric by selecting a condition for making the size of the woven fabric small in the dyeing and heat setting steps after the woven fabric is produced.

於加工編織物時進行鬆弛熱處理之時,編織物之加工步驟通常係於精練後進行中間定型,其後經過染色步驟後進行最終定型,特別有效的是在進行該定型時,尤其是進行中間定型時,於170℃~210℃之相對高溫下藉由縮幅或縱縮處理而使之鬆弛。所謂縮幅,係指縮短編織物寬度方向之尺寸之處理,所謂縱縮,係指縮短編織物縱方向之尺寸之處理。藉由縮幅、縱縮而產生之尺寸降低率之累計值相對於處理前之尺寸較佳為2~15%,更佳為5~12%。若為該範圍,則可對編織物中之聚酯纖維進行與紗狀態下之相當於鬆弛率5~15%之鬆弛處理同樣之處理。作為一例,於以5%之縮幅率、3%之縱縮率進行鬆弛熱處理之情形時,處理前設為1時之處理後之尺寸累計值為(1-0.05)×(1-0.03)=0.9215,尺寸變化率之累計值為7.85%。熱處理時間較理想為15秒~120秒,特別理想為30秒~100秒。又,較理想為最終定型時亦儘可能地設定為不使聚酯纖維緊繃,且拉平皺褶之程度。上述於紗狀態下進行鬆弛熱處理之情形時,亦重要的是在進行編織物加工時,不以鬆弛熱處理溫度以上之溫度於緊繃狀態下施加熱。藉由該等於紗或編織物之狀態下之熱鬆弛處理,可提高聚酯系纖維之結晶度且降低配向,獲得耐磨耗性非常優異之織物。When the woven fabric is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment, the processing step of the woven fabric is usually performed after scouring for intermediate shaping, and then subjected to a final step after the dyeing step, and it is particularly effective to carry out the shaping, especially for intermediate sizing. In the case of a relatively high temperature of 170 ° C to 210 ° C by the shrinkage or longitudinal treatment to relax. The term "shrinking" refers to a process of shortening the size of the width direction of the knitted fabric, and the term "longitudinal" refers to a process of shortening the size of the knitted fabric in the longitudinal direction. The cumulative value of the dimensional reduction rate by the necking and the contraction is preferably 2 to 15%, more preferably 5 to 12%, with respect to the size before the treatment. When it is this range, the polyester fiber in a braid can be processed similarly to the relaxation process corresponding to the relaxation rate of 5-15 % in a yarn state. As an example, when the relaxation heat treatment is performed at a reduction ratio of 5% and a longitudinal reduction ratio of 3%, the integrated value after the treatment is set to 1 (1 - 0.05) × (1 - 0.03). = 0.9215, the cumulative value of the dimensional change rate is 7.85%. The heat treatment time is preferably from 15 seconds to 120 seconds, and particularly preferably from 30 seconds to 100 seconds. Further, it is preferable to set as much as possible in the final setting so as not to make the polyester fiber tight and to flatten the wrinkles. In the case where the above-described relaxation heat treatment is performed in the yarn state, it is also important that heat is applied in a tight state at a temperature higher than the relaxation heat treatment temperature during the processing of the knitted fabric. By the thermal relaxation treatment in the state of the yarn or the woven fabric, the crystallinity of the polyester-based fiber can be improved and the alignment can be lowered, and a fabric excellent in abrasion resistance can be obtained.

本發明之聚酯纖維較佳為結晶度為60%~90%,且配向度為0.70~0.92。The polyester fiber of the present invention preferably has a crystallinity of 60% to 90% and an orientation of 0.70 to 0.92.

本發明中所謂之結晶度,係指進行聚酯系纖維之廣角X射線測定,於5°≦2θ≦40°之散射強度圖中,以2θ=5°與40°作出基線,將作為非晶部之峰值之θ=19.5°之強度設為A,作為結晶部之峰值之θ=25.5之強度設為B時,藉由下述(1)式:The term "crystallinity" as used in the present invention means a wide-angle X-ray measurement of a polyester-based fiber. In a scattering intensity diagram of 5° ≦ 2θ ≦ 40°, a baseline is made at 2θ=5° and 40°, which is regarded as amorphous. When the intensity of θ=19.5° of the peak of the part is A, and the intensity of θ=25.5 which is the peak of the crystal part is B, the following formula (1) is used:

B/(A+B)×100 (1)B/(A+B)×100 (1)

而計算出之值(%)。And calculate the value (%).

又,本發明中所謂之配向度,係指進行聚酯纖維之透射型廣角X射線測定,對於來自聚酯之(100)面之繞射強度之方位角依存性I(Φ),求出波峰強度與本底水準(back ground level),並求出I(Φ)之強度達到(波峰強度-本底)/2+本底之位置的波峰寬度(波峰之半峰全幅值),藉由下述式(2):In the present invention, the degree of alignment refers to a transmission type wide-angle X-ray measurement of a polyester fiber, and the azimuth dependence I ( Φ ) of the diffraction intensity from the (100) plane of the polyester is obtained. The intensity and the back ground level, and find the peak width of the I ( Φ ) intensity (peak intensity - background) / 2+ background (the full amplitude of the peak of the peak), by The following formula (2):

f=1-Δ/360 (2)f=1-Δ/360 (2)

{式中,Δ:I(Φ)中所見波峰之半峰全幅值(FWHM)之合計值(deg)}而計算出之值。再者,求算I(Φ)時,必需累計24<2θ<28°之範圍內之繞射強度,實施空格(empty cell)修正等必需之修正。由上述式(2)可明確,於結晶完全配向之情形時,f=1,於未配向之情形時,f=0。In the formula, the value calculated by Δ:I( Φ ) is the total value (deg) of the full-width half-peak value (FWHM) of the peak seen in the peak. Further, when calculating I( Φ ), it is necessary to integrate the diffraction intensity in the range of 24<2θ<28°, and perform necessary correction such as correction of an empty cell. From the above formula (2), it is clear that f=1 in the case where the crystal is completely aligned, and f=0 in the case of unaligned.

於結晶度未達60%之情形時,結晶化進行得不充分,磨耗強度降低。又,於超過90%之情形時,手感變硬,故而欠佳。When the degree of crystallinity is less than 60%, crystallization proceeds insufficiently, and the abrasion strength is lowered. Moreover, in the case of more than 90%, the hand feels hard and is therefore unsatisfactory.

若配向度為0.70以上,則可表現出優異之耐磨耗性,但若配向度超過0.92,則配向較強,故於纖維軸方向上較強,對提高纖維之強度有效,但於纖維軸以外之方向上相反變弱,對於本發明中之耐磨耗性而言欠佳。本發明中所謂之耐磨耗性,係指對穿著衣物時等發生的來自所有方向之摩擦的耐受性優異,故要求所有方向上之耐磨耗性。若存在較弱之方向,則會自此開始磨耗,故而欠佳。When the degree of alignment is 0.70 or more, excellent wear resistance can be exhibited. However, if the degree of alignment exceeds 0.92, the alignment is strong, so that it is strong in the fiber axis direction, and is effective for improving the strength of the fiber, but on the fiber axis. The opposite direction is weakened, which is not preferable for the abrasion resistance in the present invention. The abrasion resistance in the present invention means that the abrasion resistance from all directions which occurs when the clothes are worn or the like is excellent, and the abrasion resistance in all directions is required. If there is a weaker direction, it will start to wear out from then on, so it is not good.

上述結晶度、配向度之尤佳之範圍根據假撚加工之有無而不同。未經假撚加工之聚酯纖維之結晶度尤佳為65~80%,配向度尤佳為0.70~0.88。經假撚加工之聚酯纖維之結晶度尤佳為60~90%,配向度尤佳為0.85~0.92。The range of the above crystallinity and the degree of orientation is particularly different depending on the presence or absence of the false twist processing. The crystallinity of the polyester fiber which has not been processed by false twisting is particularly preferably 65 to 80%, and the orientation is particularly preferably 0.70 to 0.88. The crystallinity of the polyester fiber processed by false twisting is particularly preferably 60 to 90%, and the orientation is particularly preferably 0.85 to 0.92.

於對經鬆弛熱處理之聚酯纖維進行假撚加工之情形時,較佳為於180~200℃之低溫下進行假撚,於假撚溫度以上之溫度下進行鬆弛熱處理。又,於對含有經假撚加工之聚酯纖維的編織物進行鬆弛熱處理之情形時,亦同樣地較佳為於180℃~200℃之低溫下進行假撚加工。通常在假撚時係施加200℃~210℃之熱,於紗為緊繃狀態下進行處理。於該情形時,通常後加工中之定型溫度相對於假撚溫度較低,故定型時之鬆弛效果難以充分發揮。藉由於180~200℃之相對低溫下進行假撚,並於假撚溫度以上之溫度下進行鬆弛熱處理,可提高結晶度,抑制配向,形成耐磨耗性優異之纖維及編織物。假撚可為使用1個加熱器(1H)、或使用2個加熱器(2H)之任一步驟,亦可於假撚之前或之後實施交織加工。於2H假撚之情形時,只要溫度較高之加熱器溫度滿足上述條件即可。於假撚加工中,通常係於溫度非常高之條件下施加張力,故進行結晶化,配向變高,但於本發明中藉由控制假撚與鬆弛熱處理之溫度及鬆弛率,則即便是使用假撚紗之編織物,亦可使結晶度為60~90%、配向度為0.85~0.92。In the case of performing false twist processing on the polyester fiber which has been subjected to the relaxation heat treatment, it is preferable to perform false twisting at a low temperature of 180 to 200 ° C, and perform relaxation heat treatment at a temperature higher than the false twist temperature. Further, in the case of performing a relaxation heat treatment on a knitted fabric containing a false twisted polyester fiber, it is also preferable to perform false twist processing at a low temperature of 180 ° C to 200 ° C. Usually, in the case of false twisting, heat of 200 ° C to 210 ° C is applied, and the yarn is treated under tension. In this case, since the setting temperature in the post-processing is usually lower than the false-twisting temperature, it is difficult to sufficiently exert the slack effect at the time of setting. By performing the false heat treatment at a relatively low temperature of 180 to 200 ° C and performing relaxation heat treatment at a temperature higher than the false twist temperature, the crystallinity can be improved, the alignment can be suppressed, and fibers and a braid having excellent abrasion resistance can be formed. The false twist can be either one of the heaters (1H) or two heaters (2H), and the interlacing can be performed before or after the false twist. In the case of 2H false twist, as long as the heater temperature at a higher temperature satisfies the above conditions. In the false twisting process, tension is usually applied under conditions of very high temperature, so that crystallization is performed and the alignment becomes high. However, in the present invention, even if it is used by controlling the temperature and relaxation rate of the false twisting and relaxation heat treatment, The woven fabric of false crepe can also have a crystallinity of 60-90% and an orientation of 0.85-0.92.

本發明之聚酯纖維之單紗剖面形狀可為圓形,Y字狀、W字狀等異型剖面,中空剖面等,並無特別限定。The cross-sectional shape of the single yarn of the polyester fiber of the present invention may be a circular shape, a Y-shaped or W-shaped profile, a hollow cross section or the like, and is not particularly limited.

本發明之聚酯纖維可單獨使用,或者亦可與其他纖維複合使用。作為複合之其他纖維,例如可選擇其他聚酯纖維、尼龍、丙烯酸、銅氨纖維、嫘縈、聚胺基甲酸酯彈性纖維等,但並不限於該等。亦可僅由本發明之聚酯纖維構成之編織物,但若為織物,則只要經紗與緯紗之至少一者含有本發明之聚酯纖維即可,較佳為構成經紗與緯紗之紗之30%以上為本發明之聚酯纖維。更佳為50%以上、尤佳為90%以上。若為編物,則只要至少單側表面所配置之纖維之一部分或全部、較佳為50%以上、尤佳為90%以上為本發明之聚酯纖維即可。The polyester fiber of the present invention may be used alone or in combination with other fibers. As the other fibers to be composited, for example, other polyester fibers, nylon, acrylic acid, cuprammonium fibers, hydrazine, polyurethane elastic fibers and the like may be selected, but are not limited thereto. The woven fabric composed only of the polyester fiber of the present invention may be used. However, if it is a woven fabric, at least one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn may contain the polyester fiber of the present invention, preferably 30% of the yarn constituting the warp and the weft yarn. The above is the polyester fiber of the present invention. More preferably, it is 50% or more, and particularly preferably 90% or more. In the case of a knitted fabric, at least one part or all of the fibers disposed on at least one side surface, preferably 50% or more, and particularly preferably 90% or more, may be the polyester fiber of the present invention.

本發明之編織物可藉由常法進行精練、染色、整理加工,整理劑之種類可根據所使用之聚酯纖維之用途適當選擇。其中,如上述般,於緊繃狀態下以熱鬆弛步驟中之處理溫度以上之溫度進行處理會損害熱鬆弛效果,故而欠佳。進而進行壓光加工亦具有提高結晶度之效果,故而非常佳。The woven fabric of the present invention can be scoured, dyed, and finished by a conventional method, and the kind of the finishing agent can be appropriately selected depending on the use of the polyester fiber to be used. Among them, as described above, treatment at a temperature higher than the treatment temperature in the heat relaxation step in a tight state may impair the thermal relaxation effect, and thus is not preferable. Further, calendering also has an effect of improving crystallinity, which is very preferable.

通常,於利用後加工對編織物賦予各種功能之情形時,存在因反覆穿著及洗滌而導致功能降低之問題,但本發明之編織物藉由上述各種加工而賦予之功能在反覆穿著及洗滌後持續性仍優異。尤其是於對本發明之織物進行斥水加工之情形時,具有斥水效果之持續性優異之效果。In general, when various functions are imparted to the knitted fabric by post-processing, there is a problem that the function is lowered by repeated wearing and washing, but the function of the knitted fabric of the present invention which is imparted by the above various processes is repeatedly worn and washed. Sustainability is still excellent. In particular, when the fabric of the present invention is subjected to water repellent processing, it has an effect of excellent durability of the water repellent effect.

將本發明之聚酯纖維製成織物使用之情形時之織物組織可應用平紋組織、斜紋組織、緞紋組織以及由該等衍生之各種變化組織,塔夫塔綢組織、尤其是格紋塔夫塔綢組織藉由格紋部之磨耗耐久效果而使耐磨耗性特別優異,故而較佳。When the polyester fiber of the present invention is used as a fabric, the woven fabric can be applied with plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and various kinds of varying tissues derived therefrom, taffeta fabric, especially gram taffeta. The tarpaulin structure is particularly excellent in abrasion resistance by the abrasion endurance effect of the plaid portion.

將本發明之聚酯纖維製成編物使用之情形時之編物組織,可為圓編、經編之任一者。尤其是於容易發生勾絲之四級平滑(yondan smooth)等編物組織中亦可見勾絲改善效果,故可較佳地使用。The knitted fabric in the case where the polyester fiber of the present invention is used as a knitted fabric may be either a circular knitting or a warp knitting. In particular, the effect of improving the hook is also seen in a knitted fabric such as yondan smooth which is prone to occurrence of hooking, so that it can be preferably used.

本發明之織物較佳為馬丁代爾磨耗試驗之重量減少率在3萬次下為5%以下。更佳為重量減少率在3萬次下為3%以下,進而較佳為重量減少率在3萬次下為1%以下。調查衣料用織物用於實際穿著時之磨耗狀況,結果非常接近利用馬丁代爾法進行磨耗評價時之損傷狀態,因此為提高穿著時之耐磨耗性,有效的是提高馬丁代爾磨耗中之強度。Preferably, the fabric of the present invention has a weight reduction rate of 5% or less at 30,000 times in the Martindale abrasion test. More preferably, the weight reduction rate is 3% or less at 30,000 times, and further preferably the weight reduction rate is 1% or less at 30,000 times. Investigating the abrasion condition of the fabric for clothing used in actual wear, the result is very close to the damage state when the abrasion is evaluated by the Martindale method. Therefore, in order to improve the wear resistance at the time of wearing, it is effective to improve the abrasion of Martindale. strength.

本發明之編物較佳為ART磨耗試驗之磨耗性為N(無)或L(低)。衣料用編物用於實際穿著時之磨耗狀況可利用ART磨耗試驗進行評價,為提高穿著時之耐磨耗性,有效的是提高ART磨耗試驗中之磨耗性。Preferably, the knitted fabric of the present invention has an abrasion resistance of N (none) or L (low) in the ART abrasion test. The wear condition of the clothing material for actual wear can be evaluated by the ART abrasion test, and in order to improve the wear resistance at the time of wearing, it is effective to improve the abrasion resistance in the ART abrasion test.

本發明之編織物之手感及耐磨耗性優異,可應用於各種衣料用領域。特別適合於穿著時衣料彼此常產生擦碰之擋風夾克、羽絨衣、運動服裝、戶外服裝等外衣。其中尤其適合於在嚴酷之環境下穿著且常與他人發生接觸摩擦的運動服裝及戶外服裝。又,本發明之編織物具有薄質輕量但耐磨耗性優異之特徵,故尤其適合於薄質輕量之上述衣料。The knitted fabric of the present invention is excellent in hand and abrasion resistance, and can be applied to various fields for clothing. It is especially suitable for windbreakers, down jackets, sportswear, outdoor clothing and other outerwear that are often rubbed against each other when worn. Among them, it is especially suitable for sportswear and outdoor clothing that are worn in harsh environments and often in contact with others. Further, since the knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized by being thin and lightweight, and having excellent abrasion resistance, it is particularly suitable for a thin and light weight of the above-mentioned fabric.

本發明之織物較佳為單位面積重量為20~80 g/m2。若單位面積重量處於該範圍內,則可獲得保持衣料用途所要求之織物性能,而且耐磨耗性優異之織物。於本發明中,尤其是使用10~33 dtex之細纖度聚酯纖維之織物亦具有優異之耐磨耗性。其結果,使用該等紗之輕量、薄質之織物,例如單位面積重量為44 g/m2以下之織物亦具有優異之耐磨耗性,故可同時實現薄質化‧輕量化與耐磨耗性提昇。The fabric of the present invention preferably has a basis weight of from 20 to 80 g/m 2 . If the basis weight is within this range, a fabric which maintains the fabric properties required for the use of the fabric and which is excellent in abrasion resistance can be obtained. In the present invention, especially a fabric using a fine-denier polyester fiber of 10 to 33 dtex also has excellent abrasion resistance. As a result, a lightweight, thin fabric using these yarns, for example, a fabric having a basis weight of 44 g/m 2 or less also has excellent abrasion resistance, so that it can be simultaneously thinned, lightweight, and resistant. Increased wear.

本發明之編物較佳為單位面積重量為80~350 g/m2。若單位面積重量為該範圍內,則可獲得保持衣料用途所要求之編物性能,而且耐磨耗性優異之編物。於本發明中,尤其是使用30~84 dtex之細纖度聚酯纖維之編物亦具有優異之耐磨耗性。其結果,使用該等紗之輕量、薄質之編物,例如單位面積重量為120 g/m2以下之編物亦具有優異之耐磨耗性,故可同時實現薄質化‧輕量化與耐磨耗性提昇。The knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a basis weight of from 80 to 350 g/m 2 . When the basis weight is within this range, it is possible to obtain a knitted fabric which is excellent in abrasion resistance and which is required for the use of the clothing. In the present invention, in particular, the use of a fine-denier polyester fiber of 30 to 84 dtex also has excellent wear resistance. As a result, a lightweight and thin knitted fabric using these yarns, for example, a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 120 g/m 2 or less also has excellent wear resistance, so that it can be simultaneously thinned, lightened and resistant. Increased wear.

[實施例][Examples]

以下,藉由實施例對本發明進行具體說明,但本發明並不受實施例之任何限定。Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited by the examples.

再者,所使用之測定方法及評價方法如下所述。Further, the measurement methods and evaluation methods used are as follows.

(1) 纖度、斷裂強度、斷裂伸長率(1) Fineness, breaking strength, elongation at break

根據JIS-L-1013(化學纖維長絲紗試驗方法),於下述條件下進行測定。單紗纖度係以紗之纖度除以長絲數而計算出。The measurement was carried out under the following conditions in accordance with JIS-L-1013 (Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn Test Method). The single yarn fineness is calculated by dividing the fineness of the yarn by the number of filaments.

試片長度:200 mmTest piece length: 200 mm

拉伸速度:200 mm/minStretching speed: 200 mm/min

測定次數:5次/樣品Number of measurements: 5 times / sample

(2) 最小微分楊式模數(2) Minimum differential Yang modulus

與上述(1)同樣地進行斷裂強度測定。使用每0.25 sec之應力-伸長率測定值,以伸長率將各點之應力微分而求出微分楊式模數,根據所得之微分楊式模數曲線,將伸長率2%以上、5%以下之區域之微分楊式模數之最小值作為最小微分楊式模數。The breaking strength was measured in the same manner as in the above (1). Using the measured value of stress-elongation per 0.25 sec, the stress at each point is differentiated by elongation to obtain a differential Young's modulus, and the elongation is 2% or more and 5% or less based on the obtained differential Young's modulus curve. The minimum value of the differential Young's modulus is taken as the minimum differential Yang modular.

(3) 極限黏度(3) Ultimate viscosity

於鄰氯酚(以下簡稱為OCP)中溶解試樣聚合物,於25℃之溫度下,使用奧士華黏度計(Ostwald viscometer)求出複數點之相對黏度ηr,將其外插於無限稀釋度而求出極限黏度。The sample polymer was dissolved in o-chlorophenol (hereinafter referred to as OCP), and the relative viscosity ηr of the complex point was determined by using an Oswald viscometer at 25 ° C, and it was extrapolated to infinity dilution. Determine the ultimate viscosity.

(4) 極限延伸倍率(4) Limit extension ratio

於即將到達圖7或圖9中之第1輥(10)之前採集未延伸紗,根據JIS-L-1013(化學纖維長絲紗試驗方法),計算出極限延伸倍率。於將未延伸紗之斷裂伸長率設為(E)之情形時,未延伸紗之極限延伸倍率(MD)係以MD=(E+100)/100表示。The unstretched yarn was taken just before reaching the first roll (10) in Fig. 7 or Fig. 9, and the ultimate stretch ratio was calculated in accordance with JIS-L-1013 (Chemical fiber filament yarn test method). When the elongation at break of the unstretched yarn is set to (E), the ultimate stretch ratio (MD) of the undrawn yarn is expressed by MD = (E + 100) / 100.

(5) 紡紗性(5) Spinning properties

紡紗性之評價係將進行3日紡紗時斷頭率為5%以下之情形判定為「○」,5%以上或無法紡紗之情形判定為「×」。The evaluation of the spinning property was judged as "○" when the yarn breakage rate was 5% or less at the time of spinning on the third day, and "x" was determined when the yarn breakage was 5% or more.

(6) 紗磨耗性(6) Yarn wearability

使用圖10所示之紗磨耗試驗機進行評價。將紗切成20cm,以總纖度達到167 dtex左右之方式將數根對齊,進行10次/m左右之扭撚。對貼附有#800之研磨紙的直徑1 cm之金屬棒施加0.14 g/dtex之負載,並使其與紗接觸。使該金屬棒以0.6次/秒之速度、3 cm之振幅摩擦紗,將直至紗斷裂為止之次數(將1個往返作為1次)作為紗磨耗次數。以不改變研磨紙之狀態之方式摩擦10次,且每摩擦10次後挪動一次研磨紙而使研磨紙以新的狀態進行摩擦。紗磨耗強度係由下述式(3):Evaluation was carried out using a yarn abrasion tester shown in Fig. 10 . The yarn was cut into 20 cm, and the number of the yarns was aligned so that the total fineness was about 167 dtex, and the twist was performed about 10 times/m. A load of 0.14 g/dtex was applied to a metal rod having a diameter of 1 cm to which the #800 abrasive paper was attached, and brought into contact with the yarn. The metal bar was rubbed at a speed of 0.6 times/second and an amplitude of 3 cm, and the number of times until the yarn was broken (one round trip was made once) was taken as the number of yarn abrasions. The rubbing paper was rubbed 10 times in such a manner that the state of the abrasive paper was not changed, and the abrasive paper was moved once after each rubbing 10 times to rub the abrasive paper in a new state. The yarn wear strength is determined by the following formula (3):

紗磨耗強度=紗磨耗次數/用於試驗之紗之總纖度 (3)Yarn wear strength = number of yarn wear / total fineness of yarn used for testing (3)

而計算出。And calculated.

(7) 馬丁代爾磨耗性(7) Martindale wearability

使用馬丁代爾磨耗試驗機,根據JIS-L-1096評價織物之耐磨耗性。將摩擦次數設為20000次,將摩擦後之重量減少率按照基準分成5個等級進行判定。以重量減少率(%)={(原布重量-摩擦後重量)/(原布重量)}×100進行表示,重量減少率為4%以上則評價為三級以下,為2%以上且未達4%則評價為四級,未達2%則評價為五級。The abrasion resistance of the fabric was evaluated in accordance with JIS-L-1096 using a Martindale abrasion tester. The number of rubbing times was set to 20,000 times, and the weight reduction rate after rubbing was divided into five levels according to the standard. The weight reduction rate (%) = {(original cloth weight - weight after rubbing) / (original cloth weight)} × 100, and when the weight reduction rate is 4% or more, it is evaluated as three or less, and is 2% or more and not Up to 4% is rated as Level 4, and if it is less than 2%, it is rated as Level 5.

(8) ART磨耗性(8) ART wearability

根據JIS L1076(ART法)對編物進行磨耗試驗。磨耗次數設為60次,以N(無)、L(低)、M(中)、H(高)進行評價。The fabric was subjected to an abrasion test in accordance with JIS L1076 (ART method). The number of abrasions was set to 60 times, and evaluation was performed with N (none), L (low), M (medium), and H (high).

(9) 手感(9) feel

關於手感,將熟練之檢査人員10人中有9人以上判斷為良好之情形評價為「○」,除此以外之情形評價為「×」。將10人全部判斷為特別柔軟且手感優異者評價為「◎」。Regarding the feeling, 9 out of 10 skilled inspectors were judged to be good as "○", and the other cases were evaluated as "X". All of 10 persons were judged to be particularly soft and the hand was excellent, and it was evaluated as "◎".

[實施例1~4、比較例1及2][Examples 1 to 4, Comparative Examples 1 and 2]

於本例中,就單紗纖度對紡紗性、耐磨耗性、手感性能產生之效果進行說明。In this example, the effect of the single yarn fineness on the spinning property, the abrasion resistance, and the hand feeling performance will be described.

以下表示實施例2之製造條件。The production conditions of Example 2 are shown below.

使用如圖7之紡紗機,於第1輥與第2輥間進行延伸,暫時捲取後,使用圖8所示之裝置,於供給輥與鬆弛輥間進行鬆弛熱處理,藉此製造本發明之56 dtex/24根長絲之纖維。所使用之製造條件如下所示。Using the spinning machine of Fig. 7, the first roll and the second roll are stretched, and after being temporarily wound up, the apparatus shown in Fig. 8 is used to perform a relaxation heat treatment between the supply roll and the slack roll, thereby producing the present invention. 56 dtex / 24 filaments of fiber. The manufacturing conditions used are as follows.

(紡紗條件)(spinning conditions)

聚合物極限黏度:1.00 dl/gPolymer ultimate viscosity: 1.00 dl/g

顆粒乾燥溫度及達到含水率:155℃、10 ppmParticle drying temperature and water content: 155 ° C, 10 ppm

擠出機溫度:295℃Extruder temperature: 295 ° C

紡紗頭溫度:300℃Spinning head temperature: 300 ° C

紡紗嘴:每個嘴具有24個孔徑0.25 mmΦ之孔的嘴Spinning nozzle: 24 mouths with a hole diameter of 0.25 mmφ per nozzle

熱態距離(hot distance):135 mmHot distance: 135 mm

冷卻風條件:溫度為22℃、相對濕度為90%、速度為0.4 m/secCooling air conditions: temperature 22 ° C, relative humidity 90%, speed 0.4 m / sec

整理劑:以聚醚酯作為主成分之水系乳液(濃度15 wt%)Finishing agent: an aqueous emulsion containing a polyether ester as a main component (concentration: 15 wt%)

整理劑賦予率:0.75%Finishing agent imparting rate: 0.75%

自紡紗嘴至整理劑賦予噴嘴為止之距離:100 cmDistance from the spinning nozzle to the finish imparting nozzle: 100 cm

(捲取條件)(volume conditions)

第1輥:速度為1500 m/min、溫度為90℃The first roller: speed is 1500 m / min, temperature is 90 ° C

第2輥:速度為3975 m/min、溫度為130℃2nd roller: speed is 3975 m/min, temperature is 130 °C

捲取機:SA-608機(Asahi Engineering(股)公司製造)Coiler: SA-608 machine (manufactured by Asahi Engineering Co., Ltd.)

交叉角度:5.8度Cross angle: 5.8 degrees

(鬆弛熱處理)(relaxation heat treatment)

供給輥:速度為555 m/min、溫度為85℃Supply roller: speed 555 m/min, temperature 85 °C

加熱板溫度:180℃Heating plate temperature: 180 ° C

鬆弛輥:速度為500 m/min、溫度為不加熱(室溫)Relaxation roller: speed is 500 m/min, temperature is not heated (room temperature)

鬆弛張力:0.25 cN/dtexRelaxation tension: 0.25 cN/dtex

鬆弛率:9%Relaxation rate: 9%

卷量:1 kg/1緯紗管Volume: 1 kg / 1 weft tube

將所得之纖維之物性、及評價結果示於以下表1中。又,於實施例1、實施例3~4、比較例1~2中,如表1所示,除了改變紡嘴數、噴出量等條件以外,於與實施例2相同之條件下製造纖維。The physical properties of the obtained fiber and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1 below. Further, in Example 1, Examples 3 to 4, and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, as shown in Table 1, fibers were produced under the same conditions as in Example 2 except that conditions such as the number of nozzles and the amount of discharge were changed.

由表1可明確,本發明之實施例中所得之纖維於紡紗性、紗磨耗性、手感方面顯示良好之結果。As is clear from Table 1, the fibers obtained in the examples of the present invention showed good results in terms of spinnability, yarn abrasion resistance, and hand feeling.

於比較例1中,與本發明所規定之範圍相比單紗纖度較小,故雖然手感較佳,但於紗磨耗性方面未能獲得本發所明期待之效果。In Comparative Example 1, since the single yarn fineness was smaller than the range defined by the present invention, although the hand feeling was good, the effect expected by the present invention was not obtained in terms of yarn abrasion resistance.

於比較例2中,與本發明所規定之範圍相比單紗纖度較大,故雖然紗磨耗性較佳,但手感較硬,未能獲得本發明所期待之效果。In Comparative Example 2, the single yarn fineness was larger than the range defined by the present invention. Therefore, although the yarn abrasion resistance was good, the hand feeling was hard, and the desired effect of the present invention was not obtained.

[實施例5及6、比較例3及4][Examples 5 and 6, Comparative Examples 3 and 4]

於本例中,對極限黏度之效果進行說明。In this example, the effect of the ultimate viscosity is explained.

在進行與實施例2相同之紡紗‧延伸‧鬆弛熱處理時,變更所使用之聚合物之極限黏度進行紡紗及捲取,而獲得實施例5及6、比較例3及4之纖維。When the same spinning, elongation, and relaxation heat treatment as in Example 2 was carried out, the ultimate viscosity of the polymer used was changed to be spun and wound, and the fibers of Examples 5 and 6 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4 were obtained.

將藉由各實施例及比較例所得之纖維之物性、及評價結果示於表1中。The physical properties of the fibers obtained by the respective examples and comparative examples and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

由表1可明確,本發明之實施例中所得之纖維於紡紗性、紗磨耗性、手感方面顯示良好之結果。As is clear from Table 1, the fibers obtained in the examples of the present invention showed good results in terms of spinnability, yarn abrasion resistance, and hand feeling.

於比較例3中,與本發明所規定之範圍相比極限黏度較低,故於紗磨耗性方面未能獲得本發明所期待之效果。In Comparative Example 3, the ultimate viscosity was lower than the range specified in the present invention, so that the effect expected by the present invention was not obtained in terms of yarn abrasion resistance.

於比較例4中,與本發明所規定之範圍相比極限黏度較高,故手感惡化,未能獲得本發明所期待之效果。In Comparative Example 4, the ultimate viscosity was higher than the range defined by the present invention, so that the texture was deteriorated, and the effects expected by the present invention were not obtained.

[實施例7及8、比較例5][Examples 7 and 8, Comparative Example 5]

於本例中,對延伸倍率之效果進行說明。In this example, the effect of the stretching ratio will be described.

在進行與實施例2相同之紡紗‧延伸‧鬆弛熱處理時,改變延伸倍率相對於極限延伸倍率之比例及鬆弛率,藉此獲得實施例7及8、比較例5之纖維。The fibers of Examples 7 and 8 and Comparative Example 5 were obtained by changing the ratio of the stretching ratio to the ultimate stretching ratio and the relaxation ratio in the same spinning, stretching, and relaxation heat treatment as in Example 2.

將藉由各實施例及比較例所得之纖維之物性、及評價結果示於以下表1中。The physical properties of the fibers obtained by the respective examples and comparative examples and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1 below.

由表1可明確,本發明之實施例中所得之纖維於紡紗性、紗磨耗性、手感方面顯示良好之結果。As is clear from Table 1, the fibers obtained in the examples of the present invention showed good results in terms of spinnability, yarn abrasion resistance, and hand feeling.

於比較例5中,與本發明所規定之範圍相比極限延伸倍率較高,故紡紗性惡化,無法獲得纖維。In Comparative Example 5, the limit stretch ratio was higher than the range specified in the present invention, so that the spinning property was deteriorated and the fiber could not be obtained.

[實施例9及10、比較例6及7][Examples 9 and 10, Comparative Examples 6 and 7]

於本例中,對熱處理溫度之效果進行說明。In this example, the effect of the heat treatment temperature will be described.

在進行與實施例2相同之紡紗‧延伸‧鬆弛熱處理時,改變熱處理溫度,藉此獲得實施例9及10、比較例6及7之纖維。The fibers of Examples 9 and 10 and Comparative Examples 6 and 7 were obtained by changing the heat treatment temperature in the same spinning, stretching, and relaxation heat treatment as in Example 2.

將藉由各實施例及比較例所得之纖維之物性、及評價結果示於以下表1中。The physical properties of the fibers obtained by the respective examples and comparative examples and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1 below.

由表1可明確,本發明之實施例中所得之纖維於紡紗性、紗磨耗性、手感方面顯示良好之結果。As is clear from Table 1, the fibers obtained in the examples of the present invention showed good results in terms of spinnability, yarn abrasion resistance, and hand feeling.

於比較例6中,與本發明所規定之範圍相比熱處理溫度較低,故2%以上、5%以下之區域之最小微分楊式模數之值變為20 cN/dtex以上,於紗磨耗性方面無法獲得本發明所期待之效果。In Comparative Example 6, since the heat treatment temperature is lower than the range specified by the present invention, the value of the minimum differential Young's modulus of the region of 2% or more and 5% or less becomes 20 cN/dtex or more, and the yarn wearability is high. The effects expected by the present invention are not obtained.

於比較例7中,與本發明所視定之範圍相比熱處理溫度較高,故步驟張力下降,紡紗性惡化,因此無法獲得本發明之纖維。In Comparative Example 7, since the heat treatment temperature was higher than the range considered by the present invention, the step tension was lowered and the spinning property was deteriorated, so that the fiber of the present invention could not be obtained.

[實施例11~13、比較例8~10][Examples 11 to 13, Comparative Examples 8 to 10]

於本例中,對鬆弛熱處理時之鬆弛率之影響進行說明。In this example, the effect of the relaxation rate at the time of the relaxation heat treatment will be described.

在進行與實施例2相同之紡紗‧延伸‧鬆弛熱處理時,變更與鬆弛熱處理有關之輥之速度,藉此獲得實施例11、12、比較例8~10所示之鬆弛率不同之纖維。又,比較例9係在與實施例2相同之紡紗‧延伸條件下進行捲取後,未進行鬆弛熱處理之纖維。In the spinning, stretching, and relaxation heat treatments similar to those in the second embodiment, the speeds of the rolls associated with the relaxation heat treatment were changed, and the fibers having different relaxation rates as shown in Examples 11 and 12 and Comparative Examples 8 to 10 were obtained. Further, Comparative Example 9 is a fiber which is not subjected to relaxation heat treatment after being wound up under the same spinning ‧ extension conditions as in Example 2.

將藉由各實施例及比較例所得之纖維之物性、及評價結果示於以下表1中。The physical properties of the fibers obtained by the respective examples and comparative examples and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1 below.

由表1可明確,本發明之實施例中所得之纖維於紡紗性、紗磨耗性、手感方面顯示良好之結果。As is clear from Table 1, the fibers obtained in the examples of the present invention showed good results in terms of spinnability, yarn abrasion resistance, and hand feeling.

於比較例8與9中,與本發明所規定之範圍相比鬆弛率較小,比較例8為-5%,亦即進行延伸熱處理者,比較例9為未進行鬆弛熱處理者。於該等情形時,藉由鬆弛熱處理而對纖維中之聚酯分子產生的配向緩和效果較小或不存在,故最小微分楊式模數變為20 cN/dtex以上,紗磨耗性未得到提高。In Comparative Examples 8 and 9, the relaxation rate was small as compared with the range defined by the present invention, Comparative Example 8 was -5%, that is, the elongation heat treatment was performed, and Comparative Example 9 was the case where the relaxation heat treatment was not performed. In such cases, the effect of the relaxation of the alignment of the polyester molecules in the fibers by the relaxation heat treatment is small or absent, so that the minimum differential Young's modulus becomes 20 cN/dtex or more, and the yarn abrasion resistance is not improved.

於比較例10中,與本發明所規定之範圍相比鬆弛率較大,鬆弛熱處理時之步驟張力變低,故紡紗性惡化,無法獲得本發明之纖維。In Comparative Example 10, the relaxation rate was large as compared with the range defined by the present invention, and the step tension during the relaxation heat treatment was lowered, so that the spinning property was deteriorated, and the fiber of the present invention could not be obtained.

又,於實施例13中,使用如圖9之紡紗機及捲取機,於第1輥與第2輥間進行延伸後,不暫時捲取而於第2輥與第3輥間進行鬆弛熱處理,藉此製造本發明之56 dtex/24根長絲之纖維。關於條件,將自顆粒乾燥至第2輥之前設定為與實施例2相同,重新設定第3輥以後之條件。重新設定之條件如下所示。Further, in the thirteenth embodiment, the spinning machine and the winder as shown in Fig. 9 were used, and after stretching between the first roller and the second roller, the second roller and the third roller were loosened without being temporarily wound up. Heat treatment, thereby producing fibers of the 56 dtex/24 filaments of the present invention. The conditions were set to be the same as in Example 2 before the particles were dried to the second roll, and the conditions after the third roll were reset. The conditions for resetting are as follows.

(紡紗條件)(spinning conditions)

顆粒乾燥溫度及達到含水率:155℃、10 ppmParticle drying temperature and water content: 155 ° C, 10 ppm

擠出機溫度:295℃Extruder temperature: 295 ° C

紡紗頭溫度:300℃Spinning head temperature: 300 ° C

紡紗嘴:每個嘴具有24個孔徑0.25 mmΦ之孔的紡紗嘴Spinning nozzle: 24 nozzles with a hole diameter of 0.25 mmφ per nozzle

熱態距離:135 mmThermal distance: 135 mm

冷卻風條件:溫度為22℃、相對濕度為90%、速度為0.4 m/secCooling air conditions: temperature 22 ° C, relative humidity 90%, speed 0.4 m / sec

整理劑:以聚醚酯作為主成分之水系乳液(濃度為15 wt%)Finishing agent: an aqueous emulsion containing a polyether ester as a main component (concentration is 15 wt%)

整理劑賦予率:0.75%Finishing agent imparting rate: 0.75%

自紡紗嘴至整理劑賦予噴嘴為止之距離:100 cmDistance from the spinning nozzle to the finish imparting nozzle: 100 cm

(捲取條件)(volume conditions)

第1輥:速度為1500 m/min、溫度為90℃The first roller: speed is 1500 m / min, temperature is 90 ° C

第2輥:速度為3975 m/min、溫度為130℃2nd roller: speed is 3975 m/min, temperature is 130 °C

第3輥:速度為3617 m/min、溫度為180℃Third roller: speed is 3617 m/min, temperature is 180 °C

捲取機:SA-608機(Asahi Engineering(股)公司製造)Coiler: SA-608 machine (manufactured by Asahi Engineering Co., Ltd.)

交叉角度:5.8度Cross angle: 5.8 degrees

[實施例14][Embodiment 14]

根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理,對極限黏度為0.86且為圓形剖面之34 dtex/12根長絲之聚酯長絲進行紡紗,將所得之聚酯長絲用作經紗及緯紗,利用噴水式梭織機,織造經緯2 mm之格紋組織之織物。將所得之織物精練後,於190℃下,以3%之縮幅率、5%之縱縮率預定型60秒後,利用液流染色機進行染色,加以乾燥,然後於170℃下,以拉平皺褶之程度拉伸而進行20秒最終定型,進而於160℃下進行壓光加工。According to the manufacturing conditions of Example 2, the polyester filament having an ultimate viscosity of 0.86 and a circular cross section of 34 dtex/12 filaments was spun without a relaxation heat treatment, and the obtained polyester filament was used as a warp yarn. And the weft yarn, using a water jet shuttle looms, weaving a fabric of 2 mm latitude and longitude. After scouring the obtained fabric, it was pre-formed at 190 ° C for a period of 60 seconds at a shrinkage rate of 3% and a longitudinal shrinkage of 5%, and then dyed by a flow dyeing machine, dried, and then at 170 ° C. The degree of crease was stretched and stretched for 20 seconds, and calendering was carried out at 160 °C.

所得織物之特性如以下表2所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。The properties of the obtained fabric were as shown in Table 2 below, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[實施例15][Example 15]

經紗、緯紗係使用根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理而製造的極限黏度為1.20之11 dtex/10根長絲的W形剖面之聚酯長絲,除此以外,以與實施例14相同之方法進行織造、加工。The warp yarn and the weft yarn were polyester yarns having a W-shaped cross section of 11 dtex/10 filaments having an ultimate viscosity of 1.20, which was produced without the relaxation heat treatment according to the production conditions of Example 2, except for the examples. 14 The same method is used for weaving and processing.

所得之織物之特性如表2所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。The properties of the obtained fabric are as shown in Table 2, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[實施例16][Example 16]

經紗使用實施例1之聚酯長絲,緯紗使用根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理而製造的極限黏度為0.68之56 dtex/24根長絲的聚酯長絲,織物組織為塔夫塔綢,除此以外,以與實施例14相同之方法進行織造、加工。The warp yarn was the polyester filament of Example 1, and the weft yarn was made of a polyester filament having a final viscosity of 0.68 of 56 dtex/24 filaments, which was produced without the relaxation heat treatment according to the production conditions of Example 2, and the texture of the fabric was a tower. In the same manner as in Example 14, weaving and processing were carried out.

所得之織物之特性如表2所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。The properties of the obtained fabric are as shown in Table 2, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[實施例17][Example 17]

根據實施例2之製造條件,對極限黏度為0.85且為圓形剖面之34 dtex/12根長絲之聚酯長絲進行紡紗,暫時捲取後,使用圖8所示之裝置,於160℃之加熱板溫度下,以鬆弛率達到10%之方式進行熱鬆弛處理。將該紗用作經紗、緯紗,除此以外以與實施例1相同之方法進行織造。將所得之織物精練後,於縮幅率、縱縮率均為0%之條件下,以190℃預定型60秒後,利用液流染色機進行染色,加以乾燥,然後於170℃下進行20秒之通常之最終定型,進而於160℃下進行壓光加工。According to the manufacturing conditions of Example 2, a polyester filament having an ultimate viscosity of 0.85 and a circular cross section of 34 dtex/12 filaments was spun, and after being temporarily wound up, the apparatus shown in Fig. 8 was used, at 160 The thermal relaxation treatment was carried out at a heating plate temperature of ° C in such a manner that the relaxation rate reached 10%. The yarn was weaved in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the yarn was used as a warp yarn or a weft yarn. After scouring the obtained fabric, it was pre-formed at 190 ° C for 60 seconds under conditions of a shrinkage ratio and a longitudinal shrinkage ratio of 0%, and then dyed by a flow dyeing machine, dried, and then subjected to 170 ° C. The final final setting of the second is then calendered at 160 °C.

所得織物之特性如表2所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。The properties of the obtained fabric are as shown in Table 2, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[實施例18][Embodiment 18]

以3%之縮幅率、7%之縱縮率,於190℃下預定型60秒,除此以外,以與實施例17相同之方法進行織造、加工。所得織物之物性如以下表2所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。Weaving and processing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 17 except that the shrinkage ratio of 3% and the shrinkage ratio of 7% were 190 ° C for 60 seconds. The physical properties of the obtained woven fabric were as shown in Table 2 below, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[實施例19][Embodiment 19]

使用根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理而製造的極限黏度為0.62之聚酯系纖維,除此以外,織造與實施例14相同之織物,進行加工。所得織物之特性如以下表2所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。A woven fabric similar to that of Example 14 was woven and processed using a polyester-based fiber having an ultimate viscosity of 0.62 which was produced without the relaxation heat treatment under the production conditions of Example 2. The properties of the obtained fabric were as shown in Table 2 below, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[比較例11][Comparative Example 11]

使用根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理而製造的極限黏度為0.71之7 dtex/5根長絲之聚酯長絲,除此以外,織造與實施例14相同之織物,進行加工。所得織物之特性如以下表2所示,耐磨耗性差。A fabric similar to that of Example 14 was woven and processed using the polyester filament of 7 dtex/5 filaments having an ultimate viscosity of 0.71 which was produced without the relaxation heat treatment under the production conditions of Example 2. The properties of the obtained fabric were as shown in Table 2 below, and the abrasion resistance was poor.

[比較例12][Comparative Example 12]

不進行紗之熱鬆弛處理,於織物加工時,於180℃下進行20%之拉幅熱定型(縮幅率:-20%),除此以外,織造與實施例17相同之織物,進行加工。所得織物之特性如以下表2所示,耐磨耗性差。The fabric of the same fabric as in Example 17 was woven and processed at a temperature of 180 ° C at a temperature of 180 ° C without performing thermal relaxation treatment of the yarn. . The properties of the obtained fabric were as shown in Table 2 below, and the abrasion resistance was poor.

[比較例13][Comparative Example 13]

將極限黏度[η]為0.65之265 dtex/36根長絲之Y形剖面之聚酯未延伸紗延伸3.3倍,於150℃下實施0.2%之鬆弛熱處理。其後,以0.6%之鬆弛率、4 kg/cm2之空氣壓力進行液體交絡處理。將該紗作為經紗,通常之84 dtex/36根長絲之聚酯紗作為緯紗,利用WJL(water jet loom,噴水式梭織機)製作織物(經紗92根/英吋,緯紗90根/英吋),以5%之拉幅率(縮幅率:-5%)實施通常之染色加工。所得織物之特性如以下表2所示,耐磨耗性差。The polyester undrawn yarn of the Y-shaped cross section of the 265 dtex/36 filaments having an ultimate viscosity [η] of 0.65 was extended 3.3 times, and a relaxation heat treatment of 0.2% was carried out at 150 °C. Thereafter, the liquid entanglement treatment was carried out at a relaxation rate of 0.6% and an air pressure of 4 kg/cm 2 . The yarn is used as a warp yarn, usually a polyester yarn of 84 dtex/36 filaments as a weft yarn, and a fabric is produced by WJL (water jet loom, water jet loom) (warp yarn / inch, weft 90 / inch) ), the usual dyeing process was carried out at a drawing rate of 5% (shrinkage rate: -5%). The properties of the obtained fabric were as shown in Table 2 below, and the abrasion resistance was poor.

[實施例20][Example 20]

使用1H假撚機,於577 m/min之紗速度、1.75之牽引比且190℃之條件下,對根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理而製造的極限黏度[η]為0.75之166 dtex/48根長絲之圓形剖面之聚酯長絲進行假撚。其後,利用雙面編機製作四級平滑組織之針織布。將所得之編物精練後,於200℃下,以10%之縮幅率進行30秒預定型後,使用常法,利用液流染色機進行染色、乾燥。其後,於170℃下,於拉平皺褶之程度之寬度設定下進行20秒之最終定型。Using a 1H false twisting machine, at a yarn speed of 577 m/min, a draw ratio of 1.75, and a temperature of 190 ° C, the ultimate viscosity [η] produced without the relaxation heat treatment according to the manufacturing conditions of Example 2 was 0.75. 166 dtex/48 filaments of round profile polyester filaments for false twisting. Thereafter, a four-stage smooth tissue knitted fabric was produced using a double-sided knitting machine. After the obtained knitted fabric was scoured, it was subjected to a predetermined type at a shrinkage rate of 10% at 200 ° C for 30 seconds, and then dyed and dried by a liquid flow dyeing machine using a usual method. Thereafter, final setting was carried out for 20 seconds at 170 ° C under the width setting of the degree of flattening wrinkles.

所得編物之特性如以下表3所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。The properties of the obtained knitted fabric were as shown in Table 3 below, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[實施例21][Example 21]

使用根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理而製造的極限黏度[η]為0.85之34 dtex/12根長絲的圓形剖面之聚酯長絲,除此以外,以與實施例1相同之方法進行編製、加工。A polyester filament having a circular cross section of a dtex having a limit viscosity [η] of 0.85, which is not subjected to a relaxation heat treatment, which was produced according to the production conditions of Example 2, was used in the same manner as in Example 1 except that The same method is used for preparation and processing.

所得編物之特性如以下表3所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。The properties of the obtained knitted fabric were as shown in Table 3 below, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[實施例22][Example 22]

將根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理而製造的極限黏度[η]為0.70之84 dtex/24根長絲之聚酯長絲用於表側,極限黏度[η]為0.56之84 dtex/72根長絲之聚酯加工紗(於210℃下進行假撚加工)用於背側,製作網眼針織布。將所得之編物精練後,於200℃下,以10%之縮幅率進行30秒預定型後,使用常法,利用液流染色機進行染色、乾燥。其後,於170℃下,於拉平皺褶之程度之寬度設定下進行20秒之最終定型。所得編物之特性如以下表3所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。According to the manufacturing conditions of Example 2, a polyester filament of 84 dtex/24 filaments having an ultimate viscosity [η] of 0.70 which was produced without relaxation heat treatment was used for the front side, and the ultimate viscosity [η] was 0.46 of 84 dtex. / 72 filaments of polyester processed yarn (false twist processing at 210 ° C) for the back side, making mesh knitted fabric. After the obtained knitted fabric was scoured, it was subjected to a predetermined type at a shrinkage rate of 10% at 200 ° C for 30 seconds, and then dyed and dried by a liquid flow dyeing machine using a usual method. Thereafter, final setting was carried out for 20 seconds at 170 ° C under the width setting of the degree of flattening wrinkles. The properties of the obtained knitted fabric were as shown in Table 3 below, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[實施例23][Example 23]

使用28GG之經編機,於前部使用根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理而製造的極限黏度[η]為0.75之56 dtex/30 f的聚酯W形剖面加工紗,於中間部使用固有黏度[η]為0.68之56 dtex/24 f的聚酯圓型剖面加工紗,於後部使用44 dtex之聚胺基甲酸酯纖維,以平紋半畦編(tricot half)組織進行編造。進行與實施例20相同之加工處理,獲得單位面積重量為255 g/m2之針織布。以自前部筘供給之紗所構成之面作為表面而進行測定,所得編物之特性如以下表3所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。Using a 28GG warp knitting machine, a polyester W-shaped cross-section processed yarn having a final viscosity [η] of 0.75 at 56 dtex/30 f was produced in the front portion using the production conditions according to Example 2 without performing relaxation heat treatment. A polyester circular cross-section processed yarn having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.68 at 56 dtex/24 f was used, and a 44 dtex polyurethane fiber was used at the rear, and it was fabricated by a tricot half-structure. . The same processing as in Example 20 was carried out to obtain a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 255 g/m 2 . The surface composed of the yarn supplied from the front side was measured as a surface, and the characteristics of the obtained knitted fabric were as shown in Table 3 below, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[實施例24][Example 24]

對極限黏度為0.85且為圓形剖面之84 dtex/24根長絲之聚酯長絲進行紡紗,暫時捲取後,使用圖8所示之裝置,於160℃之加熱板溫度下,以鬆弛率達到10%之方式進行鬆弛熱處理。使用1H假撚機,於577 m/min之紗速度、1.75之牽引比且190℃之條件下,對該紗進行假撚。其後,使用雙面編機製作四級平滑組織之針織布。將所得之編物精練後,於200℃下,以10%之縮幅率進行30秒預定型後,利用常法,使用液流染色機進行染色、乾燥。其後,於170℃下,於拉平皺褶之程度之寬度設定下進行20秒之最終定型。所得編物之特性如以下表3所示,耐磨耗性優異,手感亦良好。For polyester filaments with an ultimate viscosity of 0.85 and a circular profile of 84 dtex/24 filaments, after temporarily coiling, use the apparatus shown in Figure 8 at a heating plate temperature of 160 °C. The relaxation heat treatment was carried out in such a manner that the relaxation rate reached 10%. The yarn was false twisted using a 1H false twisting machine at a yarn speed of 577 m/min, a draw ratio of 1.75, and a temperature of 190 °C. Thereafter, a four-stage smooth tissue knitted fabric was produced using a double-sided knitting machine. After the obtained knitted fabric was scoured, it was subjected to a predetermined type at a shrinkage rate of 10% at 200 ° C for 30 seconds, and then dyed and dried using a liquid flow dyeing machine by a usual method. Thereafter, final setting was carried out for 20 seconds at 170 ° C under the width setting of the degree of flattening wrinkles. The properties of the obtained knitted fabric were as shown in Table 3 below, and the abrasion resistance was excellent, and the hand feeling was also good.

[比較例14][Comparative Example 14]

關於聚酯纖維之假撚,除了利用2H,將溫度設為210℃/150℃以外,與實施例20同樣地進行加工。所得編物之特性如以下表3所示,耐磨耗性差。The false twist of the polyester fiber was processed in the same manner as in Example 20 except that the temperature was 210 ° C / 150 ° C by using 2H. The characteristics of the resulting knitted fabric are as shown in Table 3 below, and the abrasion resistance is poor.

[比較例15][Comparative Example 15]

使用根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理而製造的極限黏度[η]為0.56之17 dtex/12根長絲之聚酯長絲,除此以外,編製與實施例20相同之編物,進行加工。所得編物之特性如以下表3所示,耐磨耗性差。The same composition as in Example 20 was prepared except that the polyester yarn having a final viscosity [η] of not less than 0.56 dtex/12 filaments produced by the relaxation treatment was not used. Processing. The characteristics of the resulting knitted fabric are as shown in Table 3 below, and the abrasion resistance is poor.

[比較例16][Comparative Example 16]

使用根據實施例2之製造條件,不進行鬆弛熱處理而製造的極限黏度[η]為0.75之84 dtex/144根長絲之聚酯長絲,除此以外,編製與實施例20相同之編物,進行加工。Using the polyester filament of 84 dtex/144 filaments whose ultimate viscosity [η] was not subjected to the relaxation heat treatment, which was produced under the production conditions of Example 2, was the same as that of Example 20, except that the composition was the same as that of Example 20, Processing.

所得編物之特性如以下表3所示,耐磨耗性差。The characteristics of the resulting knitted fabric are as shown in Table 3 below, and the abrasion resistance is poor.

[比較例17][Comparative Example 17]

於190℃下,以20%之拉幅率(縮幅率:-20%)進行實施例22之預定型,除此以外,編製與實施例22相同之編物,進行加工。The preparation of the same manner as in Example 22 was carried out at 190 ° C at a tentering ratio of 20% (shrinkage ratio: -20%), and the same preparation as in Example 22 was prepared and processed.

所得編物之特性如以下表3所示,耐磨耗性差。The characteristics of the resulting knitted fabric are as shown in Table 3 below, and the abrasion resistance is poor.

[產業上之可利用性][Industrial availability]

藉由本發明,可獲得一種耐磨耗性良好,尤其是適合薄質編織物之聚酯纖維、及含有該纖維之編織物,故使用該纖維之織物難以產生由穿著衣料、尤其是擋風夾克、羽絨衣等外衣時發生之腋部或大腿部之擦碰而引起的起毛或破損,其中尤其對於穿著運動服裝、戶外服裝時發生之衣料彼此及與其他物體之劇烈接觸摩擦之耐受性強,且係手感優異之衣料。又,可使該等要求耐磨耗性之衣料達成輕量薄質化。According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a polyester fiber which is excellent in abrasion resistance, particularly suitable for a thin woven fabric, and a woven fabric containing the same, so that it is difficult to produce a fabric, particularly a windproof jacket, using the fabric of the fiber. Fleece or breakage caused by rubbing of the crotch or thighs in the outer garments such as down jackets, especially for the strong contact friction between the clothing materials and other objects that occur when wearing sportswear and outdoor clothing. Strong and handy fabric. Moreover, the fabric which is required to have abrasion resistance can be made lighter and thinner.

1...聚合物乾燥機1. . . Polymer dryer

2...擠出機2. . . Extruder

3...彎管3. . . Bent pipe

4...紡紗頭4. . . Spinning head

5...紡紗組合5. . . Spinning combination

6...紡紗嘴6. . . Spinning nozzle

7...非送風區域7. . . Non-supply area

8...冷卻風8. . . Cooling wind

9...整理劑賦予噴嘴9. . . Finishing agent

10...第1輥10. . . First roller

11...第2輥11. . . Second roller

12、13...纖維筒子紗12, 13. . . Fiber package yarn

14...供給輥14. . . Supply roller

15...加熱板15. . . Heating plate

16...鬆弛輥16. . . Slack roll

17...導紗器17. . . Yarn guide

18...鋼絲圈導紗器18. . . Wire loop guide

19...纖維緯紗管19. . . Fiber weft tube

20...第3輥20. . . Third roller

21...可動臂twenty one. . . Movable arm

22...馬達twenty two. . . motor

23...支柱twenty three. . . pillar

24...磨耗紙twenty four. . . Abrasion paper

25...試樣25. . . Sample

26...負載26. . . load

圖1係本發明(實施例2)之聚酯紗之應力-應變曲線;Figure 1 is a stress-strain curve of the polyester yarn of the present invention (Example 2);

圖2係本發明(實施例2)之聚酯紗之微分楊式模數-應變曲線;Figure 2 is a differential poplar modulus-strain curve of the polyester yarn of the present invention (Example 2);

圖3係本發明以外(比較例8)之聚酯紗之應力-應變曲線;Figure 3 is a stress-strain curve of the polyester yarn other than the present invention (Comparative Example 8);

圖4係本發明以外(比較例8)之聚酯紗之微分楊式模數-應變曲線;Figure 4 is a differential poplar modulus-strain curve of a polyester yarn other than the present invention (Comparative Example 8);

圖5係本發明以外(比較例9)之聚酯紗之應力-應變曲線;Figure 5 is a stress-strain curve of the polyester yarn other than the present invention (Comparative Example 9);

圖6係本發明以外(比較例9)之聚酯紗之微分楊式模數-應變曲線;Figure 6 is a differential poplar modulus-strain curve of a polyester yarn other than the present invention (Comparative Example 9);

圖7係表示用以獲得本發明之延伸紗之紡紗延伸熱處理設備之一例的概略圖;Figure 7 is a schematic view showing an example of a spinning extension heat treatment apparatus for obtaining the stretched yarn of the present invention;

圖8係表示對本發明之延伸紗進行鬆弛熱處理時所使用之設備之一例的概略圖;Figure 8 is a schematic view showing an example of an apparatus used for performing relaxation heat treatment on the stretched yarn of the present invention;

圖9係表示本發明之直接紡紗延伸熱處理設備之一例之概略圖;及Figure 9 is a schematic view showing an example of a direct spinning extension heat treatment apparatus of the present invention;

圖10係本發明之評價中所使用之紗磨耗試驗機之概略圖。Fig. 10 is a schematic view showing a yarn abrasion tester used in the evaluation of the present invention.

1...聚合物乾燥機1. . . Polymer dryer

2...擠出機2. . . Extruder

3...彎管3. . . Bent pipe

4...紡紗頭4. . . Spinning head

5...紡紗組合5. . . Spinning combination

6...紡紗嘴6. . . Spinning nozzle

7...非送風區域7. . . Non-supply area

8...冷卻風8. . . Cooling wind

9...整理劑賦予噴嘴9. . . Finishing agent

10...第1輥10. . . First roller

11...第2輥11. . . Second roller

12...纖維筒子紗12. . . Fiber package yarn

Claims (9)

一種聚酯纖維,其特徵在於:其係以對苯二甲酸乙二酯作為97莫耳%以上之重複單元的耐磨耗性聚酯纖維,且滿足以下之必要條件(1)~(6)、(8):(1)纖度為8 dtex以上、200 dtex以下;(2)單紗纖度為1.0 dtex以上、4.0 dtex以下;(3)斷裂強度為3.5 cN/dtex以上;(4)斷裂伸長率為20%以上、50%以下;(5)纖維之應力-應變曲線上伸長率為2%以上、5%以下之區域之最小微分楊式模數為20 cN/dtex以下;(6)紗磨耗強度為0.5次/dtex以上;且(8)結晶度為60%~90%,且配向度為0.70~0.92。 A polyester fiber characterized in that it is an abrasion resistant polyester fiber having ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit of 97 mol% or more, and satisfies the following requirements (1) to (6) (8): (1) the fineness is 8 dtex or more and 200 dtex or less; (2) the single yarn fineness is 1.0 dtex or more and 4.0 dtex or less; (3) the breaking strength is 3.5 cN/dtex or more; (4) the elongation at break The rate is 20% or more and 50% or less; (5) The minimum differential Young's modulus of the region on the stress-strain curve of the fiber is 2% or more and 5% or less is 20 cN/dtex or less; (6) Yarn wear The intensity is 0.5 times/dtex or more; and (8) the crystallinity is 60% to 90%, and the degree of alignment is 0.70 to 0.92. 如請求項1之聚酯纖維,其進而滿足以下之必要條件(7):(7)極限黏度為0.70 dl/g以上、1.30 dl/g以下。 The polyester fiber of claim 1 further satisfies the following requirements (7): (7) the ultimate viscosity is 0.70 dl/g or more and 1.30 dl/g or less. 一種耐磨耗性編織物,其係含有如請求項2之聚酯纖維者。 An abrasion resistant woven fabric comprising the polyester fiber of claim 2. 如請求項3之耐磨耗性編織物,其係馬丁代爾磨耗試驗之重量減少率在3萬次下為5%以下之織物。 The abrasion-resistant woven fabric of claim 3, which is a fabric having a weight reduction rate of 5% or less under 30,000 times in the Martindale abrasion test. 如請求項3或4之耐磨耗性編織物,其係織物組織為格紋塔夫塔綢之織物。 An abrasion resistant woven fabric according to claim 3 or 4, wherein the woven fabric is a woven taffeta fabric. 如請求項3之耐磨耗性編織物,其係單位面積重量為80~350 g/m2之編物。 The abrasion-resistant woven fabric of claim 3, which is a knitted fabric having a basis weight of 80 to 350 g/m 2 . 一種如請求項2之耐磨耗性聚酯纖維之製造方法,其係 包括以下步驟:對極限黏度為0.70 dl/g以上、1.30 dl/g以下之聚酯進行熔融紡紗;以極限延伸倍率之65%以上、85%以下之延伸倍率進行延伸處理;繼而於120℃以上、220℃以下之熱處理溫度下,以5%以上、15%以下之鬆弛率進行鬆弛熱處理。 A method for producing an abrasion resistant polyester fiber according to claim 2, The method comprises the following steps: melt-spinning a polyester having an ultimate viscosity of 0.70 dl/g or more and 1.30 dl/g or less; and extending at a stretching ratio of 65% or more and 85% or less of the ultimate stretching ratio; and then at 120 ° C The heat treatment at a heat treatment temperature of 220 ° C or lower is performed at a relaxation rate of 5% or more and 15% or less. 如請求項7之耐磨耗性聚酯纖維之製造方法,其中於延伸處理後暫時捲取,然後進行鬆弛熱處理。 The method for producing an abrasion-resistant polyester fiber according to claim 7, wherein the film is temporarily taken up after the stretching treatment, and then subjected to a relaxation heat treatment. 如請求項7之耐磨耗性聚酯纖維之製造方法,其中繼延伸處理之後,不暫時捲取而進行鬆弛熱處理。 The method for producing an abrasion-resistant polyester fiber according to claim 7, which is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment without being temporarily wound up after the relay stretching treatment.
TW099125486A 2010-07-30 2010-07-30 Abrasion resistant polyester fiber, its manufacturing method and abrasion resistant knitted fabric TWI522504B (en)

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