201004654 六、發明說明： 【發明所屬之技術領域】 本發明係關於一種改良之調理組合物。 【先前技術】 儘管已有先前技術，仍舊需要—種改良之調理組合物。 【發明内容】 因此，提供一種毛髮調理組合物，其包含疏水改性陰離 子聚合物。 • 疏水改性陰離子聚合物提供更佳之清洗性質。此點特別 適用於當組合物係調理性面膜組合物時。 較佳的，聚合物係丙烯酸酯或異丁烯酸酯聚合物。 較佳的’疏水改性法包括烷化法。 較佳的，烧基包括6至30個碳，更佳的係16至28並且最 佳的係18至24個碳。 較佳之聚合物係由Rohm & Haas以商標名Aculyn出售之 聚合物。其中最佳的係Aculyn 28TM。 聚合物含量為0.01至5%重量比並且更佳係〇 〇5到1 %重量 比。 根據本發明之組合物亦包括脂肪酸。其實例為分支鏈脂 肪酸，諸如18-曱基二十烷酸及其他此系列之同系物；直 鏈脂肪酸諸如硬脂酸、肉豆蔻酸以及棕櫚酸；以及不飽和 脂肪酸諸如油酸、亞油酸、亞麻酸以及花生四烯酸。較佳 脂肪酸係硬脂酸。脂肪酸可單獨添加、成為混合物添加或 呈衍生自例如：羊毛脂之萃取物之摻合物形式添加。 140686.doc 201004654 脂肪酸之含量為0.01至5%重量比並且更佳係自〇 05到1〇/〇 重量比。 較佳的，根據任何先前技術方案之組合物包括一種結構 劑。結構劑可改良產品在使用者手中的感覺。 用於「構建」根據本發明組合物的結構劑可係天然或合 成結晶蠛。礦物、動物或植物（植物）蠛全部稱為天然躐。 合成蠟係彼等自原料合成聚合的蠟或由天然蠟經過化學改 性之蠟。 在天然結晶蠟中，可使用以石油為主之蠟，如石蠟及微 晶蠟。化學上，微晶（MC)堪及石壤兩者非常類似，均由長 飽和烴鏈組成。兩種類型之蠟係自原油分離，蠟典型 的具有較高分子量。藉由冷卻以及過濾之加工法期間，石 蠟係自原油之高沸點餾分中萃取出。隨後進行發汗法以移 除壤中之剩餘油，產生之石蠟典型的含有小於〇 5%之油。 可獲得許多主要為熔點差異之不同等級。通常，石蠟係 無色或白色且透明。石蠟主要由直鏈分子與少量分支鏈分 子組成，其主要在接近鏈尾部具有分支。石蠟由於長且直 鍵’因此具有大且形狀完好之結晶。石蠟之分子量通常自 360至420(26至30個碳原子），但仍可獲得具有更長鏈（分子 量至高600)之型式。典型之熔點係126-134°F(52-57°C )， 高分子量型式具有接近17〇T(77t)之熔點。石蠟脆易碎且 添加油會削弱結構（降低抗張強度）。 微晶墩（MC)在物理性能、鍵結構以及長度以及在製造過 程中不同於石蠟。其堅韌、更具撓性並且具有比石蠟高之201004654 6. INSTRUCTIONS OF THE INVENTION: TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to an improved conditioning composition. [Prior Art] Despite the prior art, there is still a need for an improved conditioning composition. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Accordingly, a hair conditioning composition comprising a hydrophobically modified anionic polymer is provided. • Hydrophobically modified anionic polymers provide better cleaning properties. This is particularly useful when the composition is a conditioning mask composition. Preferably, the polymer is an acrylate or methacrylate polymer. Preferred 'hydrophobic modification methods include alkylation methods. Preferably, the alkyl group comprises from 6 to 30 carbons, more preferably from 16 to 28 and most preferably from 18 to 24 carbons. A preferred polymer is a polymer sold by Rohm & Haas under the trade name Aculyn. The best of them is Aculyn 28TM. The polymer content is from 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 1% by weight. Compositions according to the invention also include fatty acids. Examples thereof are branched chain fatty acids such as 18-mercaptoecanoic acid and other homologues of this series; linear fatty acids such as stearic acid, myristic acid and palmitic acid; and unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid and linoleic acid. , linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Preferred fatty acids are stearic acid. The fatty acids may be added separately, added as a mixture or added as a blend derived from, for example, an extract of lanolin. 140686.doc 201004654 The fatty acid content is from 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 〇 05 to 1 〇 / 重量 by weight. Preferably, the composition according to any prior art solution comprises a structurant. The structuring agent improves the feel of the product in the user's hand. The structurant used to "build" the composition according to the present invention may be natural or synthetic crystallization hydrazine. Minerals, animals or plants (plants) are all called natural mites. Synthetic waxes are waxes which are synthesized from raw materials or chemically modified from natural waxes. Among the natural crystalline waxes, petroleum-based waxes such as paraffin wax and microcrystalline wax can be used. Chemically, microcrystalline (MC) is very similar to both, and consists of long saturated hydrocarbon chains. Both types of wax are separated from crude oil, which typically has a higher molecular weight. During the processing by cooling and filtration, the paraffin is extracted from the high boiling fraction of the crude oil. A sweating process is then carried out to remove the remaining oil from the soil, which typically produces less than 5% oil. Many different grades are obtained which are mainly differences in melting points. Typically, paraffin is colorless or white and transparent. Paraffin consists mainly of linear molecules with a small number of branched chains, which mainly have branches near the tail of the chain. Paraffin wax has a large and well-formed crystal due to its long and straight key. The molecular weight of paraffin wax is usually from 360 to 420 (26 to 30 carbon atoms), but a form having a longer chain (molecular weight to high 600) can still be obtained. Typical melting points are 126-134 °F (52-57 ° C), and high molecular weight versions have melting points close to 17 〇T (77 t). Paraffin is brittle and fragile and the addition of oil weakens the structure (reduces tensile strength). Microcrystalline piers (MC) differ from paraffin in physical properties, bond structure and length, and in the manufacturing process. It is tough, flexible and has a higher than paraffin
IS 140686.doc 201004654 抗張強度以及熔點。MC蠟對油具有高親合力，其在添加 時會增加蠟之可塑性。MC蠟無法在蒸餾時避免分解，因 此係採用涉及在有機溶射再結晶之脫蝶法及離心法自 原油之剩餘蒸餾餾份來分離^含油量隨著等級變化，但通 常在2%至12%左右。霞蠟主要含有分支鏈分子，其沿著 具有一些直鏈之鏈隨機分佈。典型之熔點係145至 95F (63 91C)。尚穿透值表示蝶之撓性，但撓性不與熔 點成函數關係。 亦有其他礦物蠟’諸如褐煤蠟（montan wax)、褐煤蠟 (ligmte wax)、石蠟（0S0cerhe)、地蠟（ceresin)、猶他蠟以 及泥煤蝶。 動物蠟可自該等動物諸如蜜蜂、昆蟲或鯨獲得。此等蠟 包括但不限於蜂蠟、白蠟、蟲膠蠟、鯨蠟以及羊毛蠟。例 如，分類為動物蠟之蜂蠟係由蜜蜂構建蜂巢時所分泌。蠟 由熔化蜂巢並且過濾分離蠟而收穫。蜂蠟具有大約61_ 65 C左右之熔點，並且幾乎與所有蠟及油相容。 植物蠟可源自於豆、葉子以及漿果。植物或蔬菜蠟可包 括月桂樹、小蠟樹、巴西棕櫚、棉花、非洲羽芒、冷杉、 日本蠟、小冠椰子、棕櫚、稻油、甘蔗、肉豆蔻以及可可 脂。 可使用之合成結晶堰為結晶聚合物，諸如聚乙烯、聚亞 曱基聚合物、化學改性纖、聚合α_烯烴及合成動物蠟。諸 如，可使用石夕氧基化蜂壤（silic〇nyl beeswax)，其係已經在 化學上改性之蜂蠟。 140686.doc 201004654 根據本發明之主題可使用之蠟的樣品及其性質在下表1 中闡明。 表1 :蠟及其性質 蠟 製造商 分類* 穿透值** (25〇C) 炫點 (°C) Ultraflex Amber Bareco Products MC 27 74.1 Victory P.mber Bareco Products MC 28 79.1 White Petrolatum Penreco MC - 54 Multiwax ML-445 Crompton Corp. MC 30 79.4 Multiwax 180-M Crompton Corp. MC 18 85 Multiwax W-835 Crompton Corp. MC 70 76.7 Multiwax XI45 A Crompton Corp. MC 40 74 Paraffin Wax 50/155 Frank B· Ross Co.，Inc. P 12 67 Siliconyl Beeswax Kcster Kuenen, Inc. DN N/A 70 Be Square 175 white Bareco Products MC 15 82.5 Be Square 175 black Bareco Products MC 18 82.3 Perrowax 225OF The International Croup MC N/A 40 Beeswax NF Frank B, Ross Co.，Inc. N 18 62.5 *MC :微晶蠟；P :石蠟；N :天然/動物；dN :天然/動物蠟之衍生物。 **穿透值：由廠商利用美國材料試驗協會(ASTM D1321)石油蠟之針入度的標準試驗 方法報告之穿透數值。使用刺度計，施加標準針至樣品，在負載100克下5秒測定針 之穿透深度，以十分之一毫米(dmm)表示。 本發明之另一結構劑材料（例如，用於構建其他優點之 製劑）係微晶蠟礦脂（亦稱礦脂或礦物凍），其典型的包括大 約90%微晶蠟之自然混合物加上少量其他雜質。 根據本發明之組合物可包括常用於調理組合物之許多種 成分中之任一種。 根據本發明之組合物亦可調配成用於毛髮處理的調理劑 (典型的在洗髮之後），隨後再清洗。 該調理劑將包含一或多種調理性表面活性劑，其係化妝 上可接受並且適合局部施用至毛髮。IS 140686.doc 201004654 Tensile strength and melting point. MC wax has a high affinity for oil, which increases the plasticity of the wax when added. MC wax can not avoid decomposition during distillation, so it is separated from the remaining distillation fraction of crude oil by de-singing method and centrifugation method in organic solvent recrystallization. The oil content varies with grade, but usually is 2% to 12%. about. The paraffin wax mainly contains branched chain molecules which are randomly distributed along chains having some linear chains. Typical melting points are 145 to 95F (63 91C). The penetration value indicates the flexibility of the butterfly, but the flexibility is not a function of the melting point. There are also other mineral waxes such as montan wax, ligmte wax, swax (0S0cerhe), celesin, Utah wax and peat butterfly. Animal waxes can be obtained from such animals as bees, insects or whales. Such waxes include, but are not limited to, beeswax, white wax, shellac wax, cetyl wax, and wool wax. For example, beeswax classified as animal wax is secreted by bees when they are constructed. The wax is harvested by melting the honeycomb and filtering the wax to separate it. Beeswax has a melting point of about 61_65 C and is compatible with almost all waxes and oils. Vegetable waxes can be derived from beans, leaves and berries. Plant or vegetable waxes may include laurel, small wax, Brazilian palm, cotton, African feather, fir, Japanese wax, small crown coconut, palm, rice oil, sugar cane, nutmeg, and cocoa butter. Synthetic crystalline ruthenium which can be used is a crystalline polymer such as polyethylene, polyalkylene based polymer, chemically modified fiber, polymeric alpha olefin, and synthetic animal wax. For example, silic 〇nyl beeswax, which is a chemically modified beeswax, can be used. 140686.doc 201004654 Samples of waxes that can be used in accordance with the subject matter of the present invention and their properties are set forth in Table 1 below. Table 1: Wax and its properties Wax manufacturer classification* Penetration value** (25〇C) Hyun point (°C) Ultraflex Amber Bareco Products MC 27 74.1 Victory P.mber Bareco Products MC 28 79.1 White Petrolatum Penreco MC - 54 Multiwax ML-445 Crompton Corp. MC 30 79.4 Multiwax 180-M Crompton Corp. MC 18 85 Multiwax W-835 Crompton Corp. MC 70 76.7 Multiwax XI45 A Crompton Corp. MC 40 74 Paraffin Wax 50/155 Frank B· Ross Co. , Inc. P 12 67 Siliconyl Beeswax Kcster Kuenen, Inc. DN N/A 70 Be Square 175 white Bareco Products MC 15 82.5 Be Square 175 black Bareco Products MC 18 82.3 Perrowax 225OF The International Croup MC N/A 40 Beeswax NF Frank B , Ross Co., Inc. N 18 62.5 *MC : microcrystalline wax; P: paraffin wax; N: natural/animal; dN: natural/animal wax derivative. ** Penetration value: The penetration value reported by the manufacturer using the standard test method for the penetration of petroleum wax by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM D1321). Using a lancet, a standard needle was applied to the sample and the penetration depth of the needle was measured at 100 gram load for 5 seconds, expressed in tenths of a millimeter (dmm). Another structurant material of the present invention (e.g., a formulation for constructing other advantages) is microcrystalline wax petrolatum (also known as petrolatum or mineral jelly), which typically comprises a natural mixture of about 90% microcrystalline wax plus A small amount of other impurities. Compositions in accordance with the present invention may include any of a wide variety of ingredients commonly used in conditioning compositions. The compositions according to the invention may also be formulated as conditioning agents for hair treatment (typically after shampooing) followed by washing. The conditioning agent will comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
IS 140686.doc 201004654 性劑，可 例如氣化 適宜之調理性表®活性劑係選自陽離子表面活 單獨或混合使用。實例包括四級銨鹼或其鹽， 物。 供本發明之毛髮調理劑使用之適宜陽離子表面活性劑包 括氯化十六院基三曱基錢、氣化二十二燒基三甲基錄、氣 化十六烧啦咬鑌鹽、氣化四甲基錄、氣化四乙録、氣化辛 基三甲基錢、氯化十二烧基三甲錄、氯化十六燒基三甲基 錢、氣化辛基二子基节基鐘、氯化癸烧基基节基録、 參氣化十八院基二甲基节基錢、氣化雙_十二貌基二甲基 錄、氣化油脂三甲基録、氣化可可三甲基錢及其對應氫氧 化物其他適且之陽離子表面活性劑包括彼等名稱 為 QUaternium_5、Quaternium_31 以及料之材 料。任何前述材料之混合物亦適宜。供本發明之毛髮調理 劑使用之尤其有效的陽離子表面活性劑係氣化十六院基三 甲基銨’其可自例如DEHYQUART，來自Henkel購得商 σσ ° 在本發明之調理劑中，陽離子表面活性劑之含量較佳占 、且《物之0.01至10〇/〇重量比，更佳占〇 〇5至5〇/〇重量比，最 佳占0.1至2%重量比。 本發明之調節劑中宜添加脂肪醇材料。脂肪醇材料以及 陽離子表面活性劑在調理組合物令之組合用丨被認為尤其 有利因為此導致層狀相之形成，使陽離子表面活性劑分 散其中。 典型之脂肪醇包含8至22個碳原子，更佳係16至20個。 140686.doc 201004654 八醇及其混合物。亦宜 明組合物的整體調理性 適宜之脂肪醇實例包括鯨蠟醇、十 使用此等材料，因為其會提供本發IS 140686.doc 201004654 The agent can be, for example, gasified. Suitable conditioning tables® active agents are selected from cationic surfactants, either alone or in combination. Examples include a quaternary ammonium base or a salt thereof. Suitable cationic surfactants for use in the hair conditioning agent of the present invention include hexadecane hexacylate trimethyl hydrazine, gasified twenty-two decyl trimethyl sulphate, gasified hexahydrate saponin, gasification Tetramethyl recording, gasification of tetrahedron, gasification of octyl trimethylmethane, chlorinated 12-alkyl trimethyl record, chlorinated hexadecyl trimethylmethane, gasified octyl dibasic base clock, Chlorinated ruthenium-based base base record, gasification of eighteen yards based dimethyl node base money, gasification double _ twelve appearance base dimethyl record, gasification grease trimethyl record, gasification cocoa top three Other suitable cationic surfactants for the base and its corresponding hydroxides include those materials named QUAternium_5, Quaternium_31, and materials. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials are also suitable. A particularly effective cationic surfactant for use with the hair conditioning agents of the present invention is gasified hexamethylenetrimethylammonium, which is available, for example, from DEHYQUART, from Henkel, in the conditioning agent of the present invention, cation The content of the surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10 〇 / 〇 by weight, more preferably from 5 to 5 〇 / 〇 by weight, most preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight. A fatty alcohol material is preferably added to the conditioning agent of the present invention. The combination of a fatty alcohol material and a cationic surfactant in a conditioning composition is considered to be particularly advantageous because it results in the formation of a lamellar phase in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed. Typical fatty alcohols contain from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 20. 140686.doc 201004654 octaol and mixtures thereof. It is also appropriate to clarify the overall conditioning of the composition. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, and the use of such materials, as it will provide the hair
本發明之龍财脂料㈣之含量^組合物之〇 〇1 至10%重量比，較佳狀β5%重量比。陽離子表面活性 劑與脂肪酵之重量比宜自10:1至1:10,較佳係4:1至1:8, 最佳係1:1至1:4。 >聚石夕氧係本發明毛髮處理組合物中之特㈣成分。特定 口之本發月調理劑較佳為亦包含聚矽氧之乳化顆粒用 於提高調理性能。聚矽氧不可溶於組合物之水性混合物 中’且因此係以乳化形式存在，使聚石夕氧呈分散粒子存在 其中。 適且之聚矽氧包括聚二有機矽氧烷，尤其係CTFA名稱 為二甲矽酮（dimethic〇ne)之聚二甲矽氧烷。亦適合本發明 組合物使用者為具有羥基末端基團之聚二甲基矽氧烷其 CTFA名稱為二甲矽_醇（dimethic〇n〇1)。亦適合在本發明 之組合物中使用者係具有輕度交聯之聚矽氧膠質，如在❹ WO 96/31188中舉例描述者。此等材料可賦予毛髮密度、 體積以及可塑性’以及好的乾濕兩用調理性。 乳化聚石夕氧本身（非乳劑或最終毛髮調理組合物）之典型 黏度係10,000 cst。通常，吾人已經發現調理性能隨黏度 增加而提高。因此’聚矽氧本身之較佳黏度係至少6〇〇〇〇 cst，最佳係至少500,〇〇〇 cst，理想係至少iooojoocm。 較佳黏度不超過109 cst以便於調配。 140686.doc 201004654 供本發明調理劑使用之乳化聚矽氧在組合物中之典型平 均聚矽氧粒度小於30微米，較佳為小於2〇微米，更佳為小 於10微米。吾人已發現縮減粒度通常可改良調理性能。組 合物中乳化聚矽氧之最佳平均聚矽氧粒度係小於2微米， 理心的範圍在〇·〇 1至1微米之間。平均聚石夕氧粒度<〇· 15微 米之聚矽氧乳劑通常稱為微乳液。 步度了借助雷射光散射技術，利用來自Majvem jnstruments 之2600D粒度測定儀測量。 供本發明使用之適宜的聚矽氧乳劑亦可自商品購得預乳 化形式。 適宜的預形成乳劑之實例包括乳劑DC2-1760、DC2-1784 以及微乳液DC2-1865及DC2_1870，全部可自D〇w c〇ming 購得。此等全部係聚二甲矽酮酵之乳劑/微乳液。交聯聚 夕氧膠質亦可自商品購得預乳化形式，其優點在於方便調 較佳之貫例係可自D〇w C〇rning購得之Dc χ2_1787材 料，其係交聯聚二曱矽酮醇膠質之乳劑。另一較佳實例係 可自D0W Corning購得之DC χ2ι39ι材料其係交聯聚二 甲矽酮醇膠質之微乳液。 —另一類用於包含在本發明調理劑中之較佳聚矽氧係胺基 聚夕氧 胺基官能聚碎氧」係指聚碎氧包含至少一 個一級、二級或三級胺基團，或四級銨基團。 適宜的胺基官能聚矽氧實例包括： 名稱為胺基一甲石夕酮（amodimethicone)」之聚 矽氧烷，且如下通式： 140686.doc 201004654 H0-tSi(CH3)2-0-]x-[Si(0H) {CH2CH2CH2-NH-CH2CH2NH2) 其中x及y係取決於聚合物之分子量的數字，通常該等 分子量係在大約5,000以及500,000之間。 (ii)如下通式之聚矽氧烷： R' aG3-a-S i (OSiG2) n- (OS iGbR' 2-b) m-〇-S iG3-a-R' a 其中： G係選自H、苯基、OHSCw，例如甲基； a係0或自1至3之整數，較佳為〇 ; b係0或1，較佳為1 ; m以及η係數字，其使得^·^)可自1至2〇〇〇，較佳為自π 150 ； m係數字1至2000，較佳為1至1 〇 ; η係0至1999之數字，較佳為49至149，且 其中q係自2至8之數字且 R’係如式-CqHhL之一價原子團 L係選自下列之胺基官能基： -NR "CH2-CH2-N (R*') 2 -N(R ) 2 -n+(r")3a· -N+H(R")2 a- -n+h2(r") a~ -N (R ) ~CH2~CH2-N+H2 (R'') 苯甲基或飽和-價烴基，例如Cw 其中Rn係選自H、苯基、 烷基，且： A係鹵離子，例如氣離子或溴離子 1406S6.doc 201004654 對應上述通式之適宜的胺基官能聚矽氧包括該等稱為 「三甲基矽烷基胺基二曱矽酮」（如下描述）之聚石夕氧院， 其具充分水不溶性，足以適用於本發明組合物中：The content of the Longzhizhi (4) of the present invention is 〇1 to 10% by weight, preferably β5% by weight. The weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the fatty yeast is preferably from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 4:1 to 1:8, and most preferably from 1:1 to 1:4. > Polyoxetine is a special component of the hair treatment composition of the present invention. Preferably, the topical conditioning agent of the particular mouth is an emulsified granule which also contains polyoxymethylene for improving conditioning performance. The polyfluorene is insoluble in the aqueous mixture of the composition' and is therefore present in an emulsified form such that the polyoxo oxygen is present as dispersed particles. Suitable polyoxyl oxides include polydiorganooxanes, especially polydimethyloxanes of the CTFA name dimethicone. Also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention is a polydimethyl methoxyalkane having a hydroxyl end group, the CTFA name being dimethoquinol-ol (dimethic〇n〇1). Also suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are those having a lightly crosslinked polyoxyl colloid, as exemplified in WO 96/31188. These materials impart hair density, volume, and plasticity as well as good wet and dry conditioning. The typical viscosity of the emulsified polysulfide itself (non-emulsion or final hair conditioning composition) is 10,000 cst. In general, we have found that conditioning performance increases with increasing viscosity. Therefore, the preferred viscosity of the polyoxygen itself is at least 6 〇〇〇〇 cst, preferably at least 500, 〇〇〇 cst, ideally at least iooojoocm. The preferred viscosity is no more than 109 cst for ease of formulation. 140686.doc 201004654 The emulsified polyfluorene used in the conditioning agent of the present invention typically has a typical polyoxymethylene particle size of less than 30 microns, preferably less than 2 microns, more preferably less than 10 microns. We have found that shrinking particle size generally improves conditioning performance. The optimum average polyoxymethylene particle size of the emulsified polyfluorene in the composition is less than 2 microns, and the range of the core is between 1 and 1 micron. An average polycime oxygen particle size < 15 micrometers of polyoxyn emulsion is commonly referred to as a microemulsion. The cadence was measured by means of laser light scattering using a 2600D particle size analyzer from Majvem jnstruments. Suitable polyoxyxides for use in the present invention are also commercially available in pre-emulsified form. Examples of suitable preformed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1760, DC2-1784, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2_1870, all available from D〇w c〇ming. These are all polydimethyl ketone yeast emulsions/microemulsions. Cross-linked polyoxyl colloids are also commercially available in pre-emulsified form, which has the advantage that a convenient example is Dc χ 2_1787 material which can be purchased from D〇w C〇rning, which is a cross-linked polyketone. An alcohol gel emulsion. Another preferred embodiment is a DC χ2ι39ι material available from DOW Corning as a microemulsion of crosslinked polydimethyl ketone ketone. - Another preferred type of polyoxymethylene-based amine polyfunctional amine polyoxygen contained in the conditioning agent of the present invention means that the polyoxygen comprises at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, Or a quaternary ammonium group. Examples of suitable amine functional polyoxynitrides include: polyoxyalkylenes of the name amodimethicone, and having the formula: 140686.doc 201004654 H0-tSi(CH3)2-0-] X-[Si(0H) {CH2CH2CH2-NH-CH2CH2NH2) wherein x and y are numbers depending on the molecular weight of the polymer, typically these molecular weights are between about 5,000 and 500,000. (ii) Polyoxane of the formula: R' aG3-aS i (OSiG2) n- (OS iGbR' 2-b) m-〇-S iG3-aR' a wherein: G is selected from H, benzene a group, OHSCw, such as a methyl group; a is 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 〇; b is 0 or 1, preferably 1; m and η are numbers, which allow ^·^) to be from 1 To 2〇〇〇, preferably from π 150 ; m is a number from 1 to 2000, preferably from 1 to 1 〇; η is a number from 0 to 1999, preferably from 49 to 149, and wherein q is from 2 to The number of 8 and R' is such that the one-valent atomic group L of the formula -CqHhL is selected from the following amino functional groups: -NR "CH2-CH2-N (R*') 2 -N(R ) 2 -n+( r")3a· -N+H(R")2 a- -n+h2(r") a~ -N (R ) ~CH2~CH2-N+H2 (R'') Benzyl or saturated - a valent hydrocarbon group, such as Cw, wherein Rn is selected from the group consisting of H, phenyl, alkyl, and: A halogen ion, such as a gas ion or a bromide ion 1406S6.doc 201004654 Suitable amine functional polyoxyloxy corresponding to the above formula includes A polysulfide compound, etc., which is referred to as "trimethylsulfonylalkyl ketone ketone" (described below), which is sufficiently water insoluble, is sufficient for use in the compositions of the present invention:
Si(CH3)3 - 〇 - [Si(CH3)2 - 〇 - ]x - [Si (CH3) (R - NH -CH2CH2 NH2) - 0 -]y - Si (CH3)3 其中x+y係自大約50至大約500之數字，並且其中r係具有2 至5個碳原子之伸烷基。較佳的，數字x+y在大約1〇〇至大 約300之範圍内。 ® (iii)如下通式之四級聚矽氧聚合物： ((R1) (R2) (R3) N+ CH2CH(0H)CH20(CH2)3[Si(R^) (R5)-〇-]n-Si (R«) (R^. (CH2) 3-O-CH2CH (OH) CH2N+ (R8) (R9) (R10) } (x-) 2 其中R1以及R10可相同或不同並且可獨立的選自H、飽和或 不飽和之長或短鏈烷基（或烯基）、分支鏈烷基（或烯基）以 及c5-c8環狀環系； R2至R9可相同或不同並且可獨立的選自H、直鏈或分支鏈 較低石反烧基（或稀基），以及C5 - C s環狀環系； ® 11係在大約60至大約120之範圍内，較佳約8〇，且 X·較佳係醋酸根’但可改用例如齒離子、有機羧酸根、有 機磺酸根等替代。此類適宜的四級聚矽氧聚合物係在Ep_ A-0 530 974 中描述。 適用在本發明調理劑之胺基官能聚矽氧中胺官能基之莫 耳％典型在大約0.1至大約8.0莫耳％範圍内，較佳大約〇 ^ 至大約5·0莫耳％，最佳大約〇」至大約2 〇莫耳％。通常胺 濃度不應超過大約8·0莫耳％，因為吾人發現過高胺濃度可 I40686.doc • 11 - 201004654 月b不利於總聚矽氧之沉積，且因此不利於調理性能。 胺基官能聚矽氧之黏度不是特別關鍵，且適合的範圍在 大約100至大約500,000 cst。 適s在本發明中使用之胺基官能聚矽氧之特定實例係胺 基矽酮油 DC2-8220、Dc2-8166、DC2-8466 以及 DC2-8950- 114(全部來自Dow corning)以及GE 1149 75(來自 Electric Silicones) 〇 亦適宜的係具有非離子及/或陽離子表面活性劑之胺基 官能聚石夕氧油之乳劑。 此等預形成乳劑在組合物中之合適之平均胺基官能聚矽 氧粒度為小於30微米，較佳小於2〇微米，更佳小於1〇微 米。此外’吾人已發現縮小粒度通常可改良調理性能。組 合物中平均胺基官能聚矽氧粒度小於2微米最佳，理想的 範圍在0.01至1微米之間。平均聚矽氧粒度2〇15微米之聚 石夕氧乳劑通常稱為微乳劑。 胺基官能聚矽氧之預形成乳劑亦可自聚矽氧油之供應商 獲得’諸如Dow Corning以及General Electric。特殊實例 ❹ 包括DC929陽離子性乳劑、DC939陽離子性乳劑以及非離 子礼劑 DC2-7224、DC2-8467、DC2-8177 以及 DC2-8154(全 部係來自Dow Corning)。 適用在本發明中之四級聚矽氧聚合物的實例係材料 K3474 ’ 來自 Goldschmidt。 加至本發明組合物的聚矽氧總量取決於期望之調理程度 及使用之材料。較佳用量係占總組合物之0.01至大約1 〇% 140686.doc 1 -12- 201004654 重量比。 吾人發現聚矽氧之總量占總組合物之0_3至5%，較佳以 0.5至3%係較佳用量。 其他成分可包括黏度調節劑、防腐劑、著色劑、多元醇 諸如甘油以及聚丙二醇、螯合劑諸如EDTA、抗氧化劑諸 如維他命E醋酸鹽、香料、抗微生物劑以及防曬劑，每種 此等成分之含量將為可有效完成其目標之用量。通常此等 視情況選用之成分之個別含量分別占總組合物至高約5〇/。 〇 重量比。 較it的’本發明之組合物亦包含適合於毛髮護理之添加 劑。通常該成分之個別含量分別占總組合物至高2%重量 比，較佳為至高1 %。 適宜的毛髮護理輔劑係： (i)自然毛根養營素’諸如胺基酸及糖。適宜的胺基酸實 例包括精胺酸、半胱胺酸、穀胺醯胺、穀胺酸、異白 胺酸、白胺酸、甲硫胺酸、絲胺酸以及纈胺酸，及/或 ® 其前驅物以及衍生物。胺基酸可單獨添加、呈混合物 添加或呈肽形式添加，例如二肽及三肽。胺基酸亦可 呈蛋白質水解物之形式添加，諸如角蛋白或膠原水解 產物。適宜的糖係葡萄糖、右旋糖以及果糖。此等可 單獨添加或呈例如果實萃取物之形式添加。 有利毛髮纖維之製劑。實例係： -神經醯胺，用於濕潤纖維並且維持表皮完整。神經 醯胺係萃取自天然源’或為合成的神經醯胺以及假神 140686.doc •13· 201004654 經醯胺。較佳之神經醯胺係神經醯胺Π，來自Quest。 神經酿胺之混合物亦可適宜’諸如神經酿胺L S，來自 Laboratoires Serobiologiques 〇 任何上述活性成分之混合物亦可使用。 在第二態樣中’提供一種用於製造根據第一態樣之調理 組合物之方法。該方法包括形成調理膠體相，其包括陽離 子表面活性劑以及脂肪物質，並且分別形成疏水改性聚合 物之溶液’視情況使用陽離子表面活性劑，若存在，其係 首先添加至水。 先交互混合添加兩種混合物後’接著添加剩餘成分，形 成調理組合物。 較佳的’額外之成分包括芳香劑、增稠劑、防腐劑、色 素以及調理性聚矽氧。 【實施方式】 實例1 根據本發明之調配物。其製法係在添加硬脂醯胺丙基二 曱胺之前先加熱大約35%重量比之水至65_7〇〇c。繼續混合 直至產品完全溶解。 在南剪切下添加Aculyn28，以促進分散。 另外，共同熔化氯化二十二烷基三甲基銨、鯨蠟硬脂 醇、硬脂酸以及石蠟，並且添加此熔融混合物至含有 Aciilyn以及硬脂醯胺丙基二甲胺之主要混合器。 冷卻至40_45°c，接著添加調理性聚石夕氧、香料以及防 腐劑。Si(CH3)3 - 〇- [Si(CH3)2 - 〇-]x - [Si (CH3) (R - NH -CH2CH2 NH2) - 0 -]y - Si (CH3)3 where x+y is from A number from about 50 to about 500, and wherein r is an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms. Preferably, the number x + y is in the range of from about 1 〇〇 to about 300. ® (iii) A quaternary polyoxyl polymer of the formula: ((R1) (R2) (R3) N+ CH2CH(0H)CH20(CH2)3[Si(R^) (R5)-〇-]n -Si (R«) (R^. (CH2) 3-O-CH2CH (OH) CH2N+ (R8) (R9) (R10) } (x-) 2 where R1 and R10 may be the same or different and may be independently selected From H, saturated or unsaturated long or short chain alkyl (or alkenyl), branched alkyl (or alkenyl) and c5-c8 cyclic ring; R2 to R9 may be the same or different and may be independently selected From H, a linear or branched lower stone anti-combustible group (or a dilute group), and a C5-Cs cyclic ring system; the ® 11 series is in the range of from about 60 to about 120, preferably about 8 Å, and X. preferably is acetate' but may be replaced by, for example, a tooth ion, an organic carboxylate, an organic sulfonate, etc. Such a suitable quaternary polyoxyl polymer is described in Ep_A-0 530 974. The mole % of the amine functional group in the amine functional polyoxyl of the present invention is typically in the range of from about 0.1 to about 8.0 mole percent, preferably from about 〇 to about 5.00 mole percent, most preferably about 〇 To about 2 〇mol%. Usually the amine concentration should not exceed about 8.0% by mole. For us to find that the high amine concentration can be I40686.doc • 11 - 201004654 month b is not conducive to the deposition of total polyoxane, and therefore is not conducive to conditioning performance. The viscosity of amine functional poly-oxygen is not particularly critical, and the suitable range is Approximately 100 to about 500,000 cst. Specific examples of amine functional polyoxyxides used in the present invention are the amino fluorenone oils DC2-8220, Dc2-8166, DC2-8466, and DC2-8950-114 (all from Dow corning) and GE 1149 75 (from Electric Silicones) are also suitable emulsions of amine-based polyoxosulfonic acid having nonionic and/or cationic surfactants. Suitable for such preformed emulsions in the composition. The average amine functional polyoxymethylene particle size is less than 30 microns, preferably less than 2 microns, more preferably less than 1 inch. Further, it has been found that shrinking the particle size generally improves the conditioning performance. The average amine functional group in the composition The oxygen particle size is preferably less than 2 micrometers, and the desired range is between 0.01 and 1 micrometer. The polyphosphorus oxide having an average polyfluorene particle size of 2 to 15 micrometers is generally called a microemulsion. The formation of an amine functional polyfluorene oxygen Agents are also available from suppliers of polyoxyxene oils such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Special examples include DC929 cationic emulsions, DC939 cationic emulsions, and nonionic litters DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177, and DC2-8154 (all from Dow Corning). An example of a quaternary polyoxyl polymer suitable for use in the present invention is K3474' from Goldschmidt. The total amount of polyfluorene added to the compositions of the present invention will depend on the degree of conditioning desired and the materials used. Preferably, the amount is from 0.01 to about 1% by weight of the total composition of 140686.doc 1 -12 to 201004654 by weight. It has been found that the total amount of polyoxymethylene is from 0 to 3 to 5% of the total composition, preferably from 0.5 to 3%. Other ingredients may include viscosity modifiers, preservatives, colorants, polyols such as glycerin and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents such as EDTA, antioxidants such as vitamin E acetate, perfumes, antimicrobials, and sunscreens, each of which The amount will be the amount that will effectively accomplish its goal. Usually, the individual components of these ingredients are selected to be about 5 〇/max of the total composition, respectively.重量 Weight ratio. The compositions of the present invention also comprise an additive suitable for hair care. Usually, the individual contents of the ingredients are respectively up to 2% by weight of the total composition, preferably up to 1% by weight. Suitable hair care adjuvants are: (i) natural hair roots such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine, and valine, and/or ® its precursors and derivatives. The amino acid may be added singly, as a mixture, or as a peptide, such as a dipeptide or a tripeptide. The amino acid can also be added in the form of a protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate. Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These may be added separately or in the form of, for example, a fruit extract. A formulation that is advantageous for hair fibers. Examples are: - Neural amines, used to wet the fibers and maintain the integrity of the epidermis. The neuropterin is extracted from a natural source' or is a synthetic neuropterin and a false god 140686.doc •13· 201004654 by guanamine. A preferred neuropterin-based neuroamidamine is from Quest. Mixtures of nervic amines may also be suitable, such as spirulina L S, from Laboratoires Serobiologiques 〇 Any mixture of the above active ingredients may also be used. In the second aspect, a method for producing a conditioning composition according to the first aspect is provided. The method comprises forming a conditioned colloidal phase comprising a cationic surfactant and a fatty material and forming a solution of a hydrophobically modified polymer, respectively. The cationic surfactant is optionally used, if present, first added to the water. The two components are first mixed and mixed, and then the remaining components are added to form a conditioning composition. Preferred ' additional ingredients include fragrances, thickeners, preservatives, colorants, and conditioning polyoxyl. [Examples] Example 1 A formulation according to the present invention. It is prepared by heating about 35% by weight of water to 65_7 〇〇c before adding stearylamine dimethyl amide. Continue mixing until the product is completely dissolved. Aculyn28 was added under the southern shear to promote dispersion. In addition, the common melting of behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid and paraffin is added, and the molten mixture is added to the main mixer containing Aciilyn and stearylamine propyl dimethylamine. . Cool to 40-45 ° C, followed by conditioning polycime, perfume and preservative.
iS 140686.doc . ΛΛ 201004654 成分 %重量比. 氯化二十二烷基三曱基銨 1.05 硬脂醯胺丙基二曱胺 1.50 鯨蠟硬脂醇 6.00 丙烯酸酯/山荼醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯 0.10 硬脂酸 0.10 石躐 1.00 調理性聚矽氧 3.00 香料 1.00 EDTA 二納 0.10 苯氧乙醇 0.40 對羥基苯曱酸甲酯 0.20 水 至100 實例2 組合物A係根據實例1之組合物，而對照組之組合物B除 了缺少硬脂酸之外，其餘均相同。 比較組合物A和B之沉積聚矽氧之能力。 組合物A之數值為2403 ppm，而組合物B之數值僅為 1327 ppm ° 140686.doc 15-iS 140686.doc . ΛΛ 201004654 Ingredient% by weight. Tetracaminotrimethylammonium chloride 1.05 Stearic acid propyl decylamine 1.50 Cetearyl alcohol 6.00 Acrylate / behenyl ether-25 Methacrylate 0.10 Stearic acid 0.10 Dendrobium 1.00 Conditional Polyoxo Oxygen 3.00 Fragrance 1.00 EDTA DiNan 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.40 P-Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.20 Water to 100 Example 2 Composition A is a combination according to Example 1. Composition B of the control group was the same except for the lack of stearic acid. The ability of compositions A and B to deposit polyfluorene was compared. Composition A has a value of 2403 ppm, while composition B has a value of only 1327 ppm ° 140686.doc 15-