RU2191000C2 - Cosmetic mask - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology, particularly, for regulation of metabolic processes of face and neck skin. SUBSTANCE: composition contains, %: hyaluronic acid or its salts, 0.25-1.00; leukocytic extract, 0.05-0.20; at least one from extracts of aloe, 1.0- 3.0; ginseng, 0.5-1.5; marigold, 1.0-3.0; linden, 1.0-3.0; camomile, 1.0-3.0; and/or sage, 1.0-3.0; lemon extract, 1.0-3.0 and/or fermentative extract of grape, 1.0-3.0; gel-forming component, 0.25-0.75; stabilizer of biological medium, 0.25-0.35; antioxidant, 0.045-0.110; and diluent, the balance. Used as a gel-forming component is carbopole; as a stabilizer of biological medium, is nipaset; as an antioxidant, vitamin B6 and/or vitamin E; while, as a diluent, mineral water "Krainskaya". It is possible to introduce a local anesthetic lidocaine in amount of 0.005-0.015 mas.% in composition of said mask. For comfort application, mask is impregnated in textile material. The mask possesses reparative effect. EFFECT: increased elasticity of skin and its silk-like look. 8 cl, 1 ex

Description

 The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and can be used to regulate metabolic processes of the skin of the face and neck.

 A well-known cosmetic mask containing the protein-peptide complex "Revitol" from extracts of fetal organs and tissues, and made of knitted textile material, including a mixture of cotton fibers and polyester yarns with predominantly covered polyester yarns on one side with a layer of sodium alginate containing on it containing "Revitol" (Description of the invention to the patent of the Russian Federation 2120792, IPC 6 A 61 K 7/00, 7/48, publ. 10/27/98, Bull. 30).

 Cosmetic mask is characterized by high labor intensity of production, for example, for the manufacture of one mask requires more than 24 hours.

 A well-known face cream mask containing mink oil, olive oil, anhydrous lanolin, cosmetic stearin, triethanolamine, glycerin, distilled monoglycerides, glycerol monostearate, borax, parabenzoic acid methyl and propyl esters, perfume, water and, in addition, 20% aqueous alcohol solution of ginseng biomass, biologically active apple extract, chamomile biopolymer and goose fat (Description of the invention to the USSR copyright certificate 1803097, IPC 5 A 61 K 7/00, publ. 23.03.93, Bull. 11).

 Cream refers to a form of cosmetic product that is not convenient for use. This is due to the fact that when using a mask, excess cream should be carefully removed from the face, which requires additional time and effort. In addition, a large number of biologically active substances will inevitably lead to the appearance of allergic reactions in the user.

The closest in the set of essential features of the claimed cosmetic mask is a cream mask containing soap chips, ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, fragrance, distilled water and, in addition, alcohol-water-glycerin extract from calendula and millet flour, alcohol-water-glycerin extract hops or CO ₂ - fir extract, as well as amine oxide, burnt alum, protein hydrolyzate, citric or grape acid, starch, lanolin, monoglycerides and dye (Description of the invention to RF patent 2028796, IPC 6 A 61 K 7/0 0, 7/48, publ. 02.20.95).

 A well-known tool has the same disadvantages as the previous a. from. USSR 1803097. In addition, the special composition of biologically active substances and their concentration suggest that the well-known cream mask should not be attributed to cosmetics, but to medicines, which requires special indications for its use, which can only be given by a cosmetologist.

 The problem solved by the invention is to develop and create a new cosmetic product for the regulation of metabolic processes of the skin of the face and neck.

 The technical result will be the creation of a nourishing and moisturizing cosmetic mask with a reparative effect.

To solve this problem, in a cosmetic mask that includes a substance that increases the water-holding ability of the upper layer of the skin, a toner stabilizer, biologically active substances of plant origin, an antioxidant and diluent, a leukocyte extract, a gel-forming component and a biological environment stabilizer are additionally introduced, while as a substance, hyaluronic acid or its salts are used as a stabilizer of tonality skin type — lemon extract and / or grape fermentative extract, and as biologically active substances — at least one of the extracts of aloe, ginseng, calendula, linden, chamomile and / or sage in the following ratio, wt.%:
hyaluronic acid or its salts - 0.25-1.00
leukocyte extract - 0.05-0.20
aloe extract - 1.0-3.0
ginseng extract - 0.5-1.5
marigold extract - 1.0-3.0
linden extract - 1.0-3.0
chamomile extract - 1.0-3.0
sage extract - 1.0-3.0
lemon extract - 1.0-3.0
grape fermentative extract - 1.0-3.0
gelling component - 0.25-0.75
biological stabilizer - 0.25-0.35
antioxidant - 0,045-0,110
thinner - the rest
In addition, carbopol is used as a gelling component; Nipaset is used as a stabilizer of the biological medium; vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin E are used as antioxidant in the amount, wt.%: vitamin B ₆ 0,045-0,055; Vitamin E 0.045-0.055; mineral water "Krainskaya" is used as a diluent; lemon extract is enriched with vitamin C; a local anesthetic - lidocaine in an amount of 0.005-0.015; the mask is impregnated in textile material.

 In connection with the active development of the cosmetics market, the concept of them as preparations of an exceptionally superficial action that does not affect the physiology of the deep layers of the skin is changing. The consumer, purchasing a cosmetic product, wants to get not only the cosmetic effect of its use, but also wants to get rid of various skin diseases. There is a practical opportunity to influence the underlying processes that occur in all layers of the skin with specially developed substances that affect the body by the forces of the body itself. Such substances include a cosmetic mask, which is a mechanical mixture of hyaluronic acid or its salts, leukocyte extract, biologically active substances of plant origin, skin tonality stabilizer, gelling component, biological environment stabilizer, antioxidant and diluent.

 Let us consider in detail the role of each of the components in the composition of the mask as applied to a real recipe.

 Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring mucopolysaccharide consisting of alternating residues of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-glucosamine. Acid, which is characterized by high viscosity, elasticity, the ability to bind water and proteins, is known for its disinfecting, anti-inflammatory wound healing effect, and its low molecular weight modification in itself contributes to the formation of new blood vessels at the site of use. As a rule, the most affordable form of delivery of hyaluronic acid to the body is its salts - sodium, zinc and some others. When penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin, the acid has a stimulating effect on fibroblastins, enhancing their migration and activating collagen synthesis, a sufficient amount of which promotes the regeneration of skin cells. In addition, acid, due to its binding ability, acts as a prolonger of the action of other components that make up the product, which implies the use of the latter in significantly smaller amounts compared to purely dosage forms.

 In more detail, the effect and action on the body of hyaluronic acid is described in the work of V. Stroitelev and I. Fedorishchev. "Hyaluronic acid in medical and cosmetic preparations." Cosmetics and medicine. N 3, 2000, with. 21-31.

 Leukocyte extract according to HFS XI, c. 2 is used as an immunomodulating and immunostimulating agent affecting skin cells.

 The biologically active substances in the mask are represented by at least one of the extracts of aloe (Aloe), ginseng (Panax ginseng), calendula (Calendula officinalis), linden (Tilia cordata), chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) and / or sage (Salvia officinalis).

 Aloe extract is used as a strong bactericidal anti-inflammatory and wound healing agent that promotes active stress relief and has a nourishing effect on the skin.

 Ginseng extract - a natural glycoside with an optimizing and nourishing effect - is used to enhance metabolism and stimulate shadow respiration, as well as for the treatment and prevention of certain skin diseases. Of particular note is the appointment of ginseng drugs in the practice of Chinese medicine, where they are used not so much for various diseases as for preventive purposes, especially for older people.

 Calendula extract is used due to its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and wound healing effects. The greatest effect is manifested in the treatment of small wounds, bruises, frostbite, burns, acne, etc.

 Linden extract contains glycosides, tannins, vitamin C, carotene and essential oil. The mask is used to relieve skin tension and soften it.

 Chamomile extract is used as an anti-inflammatory, analgesic and anti-allergic agent. These qualities are provided by the bitter substance chamazulen, which is part of the essential oil of flower baskets.

 Sage extract due to the presence of phytoncides has a calming effect, affecting the body through the upper respiratory tract. The use of sage for dermatitis and sweating is widely known.

 Lemon extract (Citrus limon) is known as a means of lowering cholesterol in the skin, stabilizing its tonality mainly due to whitening of age spots. Enriching the lemon extract with vitamin C further improves intracellular respiration and accelerates tissue regeneration.

 An enzyme extract of grapes (Vitis vinifera) can perform a function similar to a lemon extract in a mask. Additionally, grape enzymes help exfoliate dead skin cells.

 To give the mask a stable presentation, a gel-forming component, carbopol, was introduced into its composition. Despite the fact that the mask contains hyaluronic acid or its salts, which themselves are gel-forming components, the lower limit of their concentration cannot provide guaranteed gel formation of the mixture. A similar carbopol function in the mask can be performed by the purified sodium salt of carboxymethyl cellulose, known as a thickener of food products, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

 Nipaset, a mixture of ethyl and methyl esters of parobenzoic acid, was used as a stabilizer of the biological environment in the mask. Its presence inhibits the development of microorganisms. Like propyl ester of parabenzoic acid, nipaset acts as a chemical sterilizer.

Vitamin B ₆ reduces the inflammatory response of the skin and prevents the appearance of acne. Vitamin E inhibits the metabolism of proteins, nucleic acids and steroids, which makes it indispensable in the care of aging skin of the face and neck. As part of the mask, vitamins B ₆ and E act as active antioxidants (antioxidants).

 A local anesthetic - lidocaine - reduces the sensitivity of the skin to the tingling effect of the alcohol component of the extracts.

 As a diluent of the obtained mixture of the above components, distilled water can be used, as well as drinking or mineral.

 The use of mineral water enriches the mask with minerals. Despite the fact that minerals are present in the plant component of the cosmetic mask, their concentration is negligible in order to have any significant effect on skin cells. And only thanks to the use of Krainskaya mineral water, it was possible to achieve the necessary concentration of mineral substances, the positive effect of which appears unconditionally in the composition of the mask.

 Mineral water "Krainskaya" according to GOST 13273-88 is extracted from the sources of the resort "Krainka", located in the Suvorov district of the Tula region.

The chemical composition of the Krainskaya mineral water, mg / dm ³ :
Anions: - Cations:
sulfates 1400-1600; - calcium 500-600;
bicarbonates 200-300; - magnesium - less than 100;
chlorides - less than 25; - sodium + potassium - less than 25.

The mineralization of 2.2-2.8 g / DM ³ .

 Due to the presence of hyaluronic acid or its salts in the mask, the combined effect on the skin of the incoming components ultimately exceeds the effect exerted by each of them individually.

 Particular attention should be paid to the plant component of the mask.

 Each plant is characterized by a specific spectrum of action on the body, which suggests their predominant use for the treatment or prevention of various diseases. However, the real effect of plants is much wider, since in addition to the active principle, any plant contains a complex of accompanying microelements, the influence of which on the body is not so pronounced. Nevertheless, as a part of the mask, each plant exhibits additional properties, being a source of microelements and biologically active substances necessary for the skin. The effect of the combination of hyaluronic acid or its salts with plant extracts is that at the initial stages of changes in the skin, when these changes are not yet externally manifested, that is, the process is practically reversible, self-regulation mechanisms are activated in the body due to feedback. As a result, blood supply to the skin of the face and neck increases, and proper nutrition of the cells restores the skin structure, making it supple, smooth and silky.

 Cases are not ruled out when the use of certain extracts as part of a mask may be undesirable. For example, it is recommended to limit the use of ginseng extract during the summer heat during hypertension, aloe extract during pregnancy, and fermented grape extract for diabetes, etc.

 Conversely, in some cases, a specific extract that has a beneficial effect in some diseases, for example, ginseng extract for diabetes, fermented grape extract, if necessary, to exfoliate dead skin cells of excessively dry skin, etc. can be recommended as part of the mask.

 It should be noted that the use of a cosmetic mask in salons did not reveal any negative effects on the body of its components, including those exhibiting an allergic effect (for example, sodium hyaluronate, obtained from cocks, for individuals with individual intolerance to chicken protein). This is due to the fact that the doses used in the mask are almost negligible in comparison with the pharmacological doses. In this case, one should not discount the traditions of the use of extracts in medical practice and the possible placebo effect in terms of a negative or positive reaction of the consumer to the name of a particular component.

 The minimum sufficient or maximum allowable content of the components in the mask is determined by the claimed boundaries of their quantitative ratios. A further decrease in the number of components can lead to the fact that some component will lose its functional value. This can only be allowed in the case of a plant component, which will practically mean the exclusion of one of the extracts from the mask.

On the other hand, an increase in the number of components can lead to an imbalance in the mixture, when the action of any component is excessive, for example, an excess of vitamin B ₆ for women with dark skin can provoke uncontrolled facial hair growth, an excess of any of the plant extracts will give the desired effect, as they simply will not have time to react with the skin of the face and / or neck, and excess lidocaine will cause a temporary loss of their sensitivity, etc.

 For the successful use of a cosmetic mask, it is recommended to impregnate it into a textile material, which will be the mask itself - a special overlay with cutouts for the eyes, nose and lips. The mask may be made of a fabric material, for example, a three-layer gauze, a non-woven material, for example, a spunbond, or a combination thereof. In this case, there is a significant savings in the cosmetic composition and the best effect is achieved from its use. Organic and mineral substances and trace elements of the mixture gradually pass into the skin, which allows to provide the necessary duration of exposure of the mask to the patient's skin. In addition, despite the fact that the mask is individual and disposable in its intended use, it must be borne in mind that with appropriate use it can be reused. The quantitative proportions of the components of the mask make it possible to use it in order to save up to complete drying, as a rule, three times, provided that between sessions of use it will be stored tightly packed in the refrigerator freezer. Thus, just in case, the developer laid in the mask a parametric reserve for the duration of its use.

To prepare 100 kg of a cosmetic mask, it is necessary to have 83.99 kg of a 0.6% solution, for example, sodium hyaluronate in Krainskaya mineral water, aqueous or hydroalcoholic for medical and cosmetic purposes according to GFS XI, c. 2 leukocyte extract in an amount of 0.1 kg, aloe extracts 2.0 kg, ginseng 1.0 kg, calendula 2.0 kg, linden 2.0 kg, chamomile 2.0 kg, sage 2.0 kg, lemon 2, 0 kg, fermented grape extract 2.0 kg, 0.5 kg carbopol, 0.3 kg nipaseta, 0.05 kg vitamin B ₆ , 0.05 kg vitamin E and 0.01 kg lidocaine.

First, with thorough stirring, a solution of sodium hyaluronate in mineral water and a mixture of plant extracts with leukocyte extract, nipaset, vitamins B ₆ and lidocaine are combined. In the resulting composition, again with thorough mixing, carbopol is added in small portions, after which the product acquires the necessary viscosity and presentation.

 The resulting product is impregnated with masks made of textile material, packaged in airtight bags, decorative boxes and sent to consumers.

 A cosmetic mask made according to the invention can be used both in specialized beauty salons and independently at home. Of special importance are not special cleaning of the skin of the face and neck, preliminary massage, as well as the passage of a course of treatment of skin diseases.

 Before applying the mask, the skin is cleaned or washed thoroughly, then steamed, after which it is necessary to comfortably sit in a chair or on a couch, remove the hair under a special hat or bandage, open your neck. The mask is applied to the entire face, except for the area of the eyes and lips, and, if necessary, on the neck. After 15-20 minutes, the mask is removed.

 As a result of applying a cosmetic mask, already after the first session, the elasticity and firmness of the skin increases, it acquires a well-groomed appearance and silkiness.

Claims (6)

1. Cosmetic mask, including a substance that increases the water-retaining ability of the upper layer of the skin, a toner stabilizer of the skin, biologically active substances of plant origin, an antioxidant and a diluent, characterized in that it also contains a leukocyte extract, a gel-forming component and a stabilizer of the biological environment, hyaluronic acid or its salts are used as a substance that enhances the water-holding ability of the upper layer of the skin, as a stabilizer of tonality and - lemon extract and / or extract fermentarny grapes, and as biologically active substances - at least one of the extracts of aloe, ginseng, calendula, linden, camomile, and / or salvia in the following ratio, wt.%:
Hyaluronic acid or its salts - 0.25-1.00
Leukocyte extract - 0.05-0.20
Aloe extract - 1.0-3.0
Ginseng Extract - 0.5-1.5
Calendula Extract - 1.0-3.0
Linden extract - 1.0-3.0
Chamomile Extract - 1.0-3.0
Sage Extract - 1.0-3.0
Lemon Extract - 1.0-3.0
Enzymatic grape extract - 1.0-3.0
Gel-forming component - 0.25-0.75
Biological medium stabilizer - 0.25-0.35
Antioxidant - 0.045-0.110
Thinner - Else
2. The cosmetic mask according to claim 1, characterized in that carbopol is used as a gelling component.  3. Cosmetic mask according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that as a stabilizer of the biological environment using nipaset. 4. Cosmetic mask according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin E is used as an antioxidant in quantity, mass. %:
Vitamin B ₆ - 0.045-0.055
Vitamin E - 0.045-0.055
5. Cosmetic mask according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the mineral water "Krainskaya" is used as a diluent.  6. Cosmetic mask according to any one of paragraphs. 1-5, characterized in that the lemon extract is enriched with vitamin C.  7. Cosmetic mask according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that a local anesthetic, lidocaine, is added to it in an amount of 0.005-0.015 wt.%.  8. Cosmetic mask according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it is made impregnated in a textile material.