RU2014830C1 - Face skin cream - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics. SUBSTANCE: cream composition comprising kernel oil, confectionery fat and anhydrous lanolin as the fatty base, bees wax, pentol, methyl and propyl p- hydroxybenzoic acid esters, flavoring agent, and water further contains montan wax, urea and oil solution of natural prostaglandins, 0.8-1.2 mg/g, with fatty base supplemented with low-melt chicken fat and glycerol, in the following mixture ratio, % by weight: kernel oil 10.0- 25.0, low-melt chicken fat 12.0- 13.0, confectionery fat 5.0-6.0, bees wax 3.5-4.0, montan wax 0.4-0.6, anhydrous lanolin 3.0-4.0, pentol 4.0-6.0, urea 0.5-1.0, oil solution of natural prostaglandins 1.0- 5.0, glycerol 1.0-3.0, methyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid ester 0.2-0.4, propyl p-hydroxybenzoic acid ester 0.05-0.15, flavoring agent 0.4-0.6 and water for the balance. As the natural prostaglandins, there is used an extract of lipid constituents isolated from Fusarium cambucinum fungi grown in liquid nutrient media, which are producers prostaglandins E and F. EFFECT: increased smoothing effect. 1 tbl

Description

 The invention relates to cosmetics, namely to cosmetics for all skin types.

Known cream for facial skin containing components in the following ratio, wt. %: Distilled glycerin 7.0 Olive oil 4.0 Linolin 0.25 Emulsion wax 6.0 Methyl ester of para-hydroxybenzoic acid 0.09 Propyl ester of para-hydroxybenzoic acid 0.17 Ethyl alcohol rectified 4.5
Carbon dioxide extract of Schisandra chinensis 4.0
Carbon dioxide extract of female hapopods of common hops 0.15 Fragrance 0.3 Water Else (see USSR author's certificate N 835445, class A 61 K 7/00, 1966).

 However, the known cream is applicable only to normal and oily skin and does not exclude the phenomena of dryness and peeling of the skin.

The closest technical solution known is a skin cream containing components in the following ratio, wt.%: Mink oil 12.5 Stone seed oil 19.5 Technical salomas 5.0 Stearyl stearate 3.0 Pentol 4.0 Anhydrous lanolin 2, 0 Beeswax 4.0 Cocoa Butter 4.0
Para-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.3
Para-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.1
Water soluble waste
mannitol production
and sodium alginate from laminaria 1.0 Fragrance 0.5 Paroform 0.03 High molecular weight alcohols 1.0 Confectionery fat 3.0 Water Else (see USSR author's certificate N 1503817, class A 61 K 7/00, 1985) .

 The disadvantages of this cream is that it is applicable only as a means to care for dry skin and does not eliminate the phenomena of dryness and peeling, and also does not improve the elasticity of the skin.

 The aim of the invention is to increase the emollient and hydrant effect, the elimination of the phenomena of dryness and peeling, as well as improving the elasticity of any type of skin by restoring microcirculation and moisturizing.

This goal is achieved by the fact that a skin cream containing a fat base of stone oil, confectionery and anhydrous lanolin fat, beeswax, pentol, methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid, perfume and water, in addition to the listed components, it contains montan wax, urea and an oil solution of natural prostaglandins in an amount of 0.8-1.2 mg / g, and chicken oil of low-melting fractions and glycerin are additionally added to the fat base in the following ratio of components, wt.%: Stone oil 10.0-25.0
Easy-melting chicken oil 12.0-15.0 Confectionery fat 5.0-6.0 Beeswax 3.5-4.0 Montan wax 0.4-0.6 Anhydrous lanolin 3.0-4.0 Pentol 4.0-6.0 Urea 0.5-1.0
A solution of natural prostaglandins (oil) 1.0-5.0 Glycerin 1.0-3.0
Para-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.2-0.4
Propyl ether of para-hydroxybenzoic acid 0.05-0.15 Fragrance 0.4-0.6 Water Else
In addition, lipid extract from fungi of the genus Fusarium sambucinum grown on liquid nutrient media and synthesizing mainly prostaglandins of groups E and F is used as natural prostaglandins.

 An analysis of the known technical solutions showed that a cream for dry skin is known that contains a proteolytic enzyme preparation, kernel oil, vitamin F, monoglyceride, glycerin, stearin, a preservative, emulsion waxes, ethyl alcohol, perfume and water, in which the preparation was used as an enzyme preparation Culture Bac. Subtilis pcs. 103, stabilized with potassium chloride, and additionally contains urea, camphor and triethanolamine (see USSR author's certificate N 562281, class A 61 K 7/00, 1974).

 The specified cream provides high biological activity, is characterized by stability, has a favorable emollient effect on dry skin of hands and feet, as well as an antiseptic and disinfectant effect. For dry skin, this cream does not have an irritating and allergenic effect, does not negatively affect the functional state of the skin.

 However, for other types of skin (normal and oily) due to the lack of microcirculation and hydration, it is not applicable, because It has a reduced emollient and hydrant effect. The elasticity of the skin when using the specified cream does not improve.

 The introduction in the claimed technical solution into the cream of an oil solution of natural prostaglandins (BCP) with the specified qualitative and quantitative selection of ingredients avoids these drawbacks and concludes that the claimed technical solution is new, meets the inventive step, and therefore the criterion of "Significant differences" and can be used industrially in healthcare.

 To prepare the claimed cream, it is necessary to obtain a PPG oil solution, which determines the high biological activity of the cream. The largest number of BCPs is formed by fungi of the genus Fusarium sambucinum, which grow well on liquid nutrient media and synthesize mainly BCPs of groups E and F.

Fusarium sambucinum VKMF - 3051 D fungus is grown by deep cultivation on a liquid nutrient medium containing molasses 20-30 g / l, sucrose 20-25 g / l, ammonium nitrate 3-4 g / l and potassium phosphate monosubstituted 2-5 g / l The fungus is grown in a 100 L fermenter at 26 ^° C. with stirring with a stirrer at a speed of 210 rpm and aeration of 1 L / L / min for 36-40 hours. Then, the biomass and the culture liquid are separated by filtration on a suction filter. The biomass is mixed with twice the amount of 96% ethanol (weight / volume) and kept at room temperature for 40 hours. The mixture is filtered, the filtrate is evaporated in vacuo to 1/7 of the initial volume at a temperature not exceeding 45 ^o C. The alcohol-water residue is acidified. 2 n. hydrochloric acid to a pH of 4.0-4.5 and extracted three times with chloroform 1/3 of the volume. The chloroform extracts are combined and evaporated to dryness in vacuo at a temperature not exceeding 45 ^o C. After the first extraction, the biomass is again mixed with ethanol (82%) in a 1: 2 ratio and kept for 7 days, filtered, and then the filtrate treatment operation is repeated. The biomass is extracted twice more with 82% ethanol for 7 days, and the filtrate is treated. All extracts after 4 treatments of biomass with ethanol, evaporated to dryness to an oily state, are combined.

To the culture fluid add 2 N. hydrochloric acid solution to pH 4.0-4.5 and extracted with chloroform three times. The chloroform extracts are combined, washed with a small amount of water and evaporated in vacuo to dryness at a temperature not exceeding 45 ^o C. The extracts obtained by processing biomass and culture fluid are combined. A product is obtained containing prostaglandins E ₂ and F _2α and representing an oily, viscous brown liquid with a specific odor, which is dissolved in perfume oil to a concentration of 1 mg / g.

Qualitative and quantitative analysis is carried out by gas-liquid chromatography on a Gazchrom - 1109 instrument with an ionization resonance detector. Analysis conditions: a glass column 2 m long, 3 mm in diameter, filled with a sorbent chromaton NAW-DMCS with a liquid phase of 1% SE-30. The temperature of the column is 210 ^o C, detector 230 ^o C, evaporator 275 ^o C, the speed of the carrier gas - nitrogen of high purity - 30-35 ml / min. Prostaglandins identify and calculate their content by peak area in comparison with the standards: PGE ₂ - (USA), PF ₂ -Enzaprast (VNR), PGE ₂ and PF _2α Institute of Chemistry of the ESSR. The retention time of PGE ₂ is 7.5 min, and PF _2α is 23 min.

In addition, PGE _{2 was} quantified by UV spectrophotometry. PGE ₂ was isomerized in PGV ₂ followed by measurement of absorbance in a spectrophotometer at a wavelength of 278 nm.

 Prostaglandins were also identified by chromatography-mass spectrophotometry on a Hewlett Packard 5985 B.

 In the composition of the proposed cream, as a fat base, a mixture of vegetable and animal fats was used: kernel oil (olive) 10.0-25.0%. The introduction of olive oil less than 10.0% does not create an optimal emollient effect, and the introduction of more than 25.0% overweight the skin. The low-melting fraction of chicken oil in the amount of 12.0-13.0% provides a positive dermatological effect. In addition, the low-melting fraction of chicken oil is a light-filtering component for UV rays. The introduction of it less than 12.0% does not provide a light-filtering effect, and the introduction of more than 13.0% creates an overwhelming effect. Confectionery fat in an amount of 5.0-6.0% ensures the elimination of dryness and peeling of the skin. The introduction of it is less than 5.0% reduces the hydration effect, and the introduction of more than 6.0% creates an overwhelming effect. Glycerin in the amount of 1.0-3.0% optimally softens the skin, without having an effect when lowering it is less than 1.0%, and worsens the structure of the cream if it is more than 3.0%. Anhydrous lanolin, introduced in an amount of 3.0-4.0% and consisting of a mixture of fatty acids, wax-like esters of fatty acids, cholesterol, isocholesterol, is a builder and a moisture-absorbing component, which gives velvety composition. The introduction of lanolin below 3.0% does not provide the structure of the composition, and the introduction of higher than 4.0% creates the rigidity of the structure.

 Beeswax in the amount of 3.5-4.0% was also added to the cream complex. The introduction of beeswax less than 3.5% does not provide the desired elasticity of the cream, and the introduction above the upper limit creates the rigidity of the structure.

 As emulsifiers, pentol (pentaerythritol and oleic acid ester) in the amount of 4.0-6.0% and montan wax in the amount of 0.4-0.6%, which give a pleasant consistency to the cream, provide a stable emulsion with uniform distribution. components and ensuring optimal electrical resistance of the skin surface. With the introduction of quantities of emulsifiers exceeding the upper limits of these ingredients, the cream's consistency becomes thicker and more viscous, which leads to a decrease in its penetrating ability through the skin barrier, thereby reducing its positive effect on physiological and biochemical processes in the skin. When the lower limits of the amounts of emulsifiers are underestimated, the cream becomes liquid and can spread over the skin, also reducing the positive effect on physiological biochemical processes in the skin.

 Ensuring the biological activity of the cream, softening and hydrating effect, elasticity is ensured by a complex of urea (urea) in an amount of 0.5-1.0% and a PPG solution of 0.8-1.2 mg / g in an amount of 1.0-5.0 %, which provides the restoration of microcirculation and skin hydration, as well as the prolonged action of the cream due to the presence of phospholipids in the BCP and a pH close to the optimal pH of 5.0-6.0.

 A complex of methyl paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.2-0.4% and paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.05-0.15% was used as preserving components.

 To obtain a pleasant smell, 0.4-0.6% of the fragrance "Birch" or "Florion" is added to the cream (TU 18-16-124-77).

 The composition of the cream is shown in the table.

The cream is prepared according to the following technology:
- harvesting the components of the fat base;
- procurement of components of the aqueous phase;
- cooking cream (emulsification, perfume);
- crystallization;
- plastic processing (rolling);
- unloading cream in the hopper;
- packing;
- packaging, labeling.

In an iron enameled reactor of the RCHEN-1 brand with a capacity of 400 l, solid components of the fat base (confectionery fat, low-melting chicken oil, anhydrous lanolin, beeswax and montan) are loaded in accordance with the recipe. The reactor is equipped with a steam-water jacket and an anchor mixer, providing a rotation speed of 100 rpm. Solid components are melted at a temperature of 65-70 ^o C, registering it by a thermometer (TU 95-1102.043-83).

 Stone (olive) oil from the measuring cup is fed into the melt according to the recipe. Preservatives (methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid) are dissolved in the part of the stone oil and introduced into the melt.

Then, the calculated amount of hot water at a temperature of 65-70 ^o C. is fed into a metal measuring device with a capacity of 400 l. In part of the hot water (up to 5%), urea (urea) is dissolved in a separate enameled container.

The molten components of the fat base at a temperature of 70 ^o C are pumped into a digester (grade RCHEN-630), equipped with a steam jacket and stirrer anchor and propeller type. Then pentol is introduced into the reactor, the anchor stirrer is turned on, and water heated to 60-70 ^° C is supplied in a small stream. At the same time, a solution of urea (urea) and glycerin are administered. Then turn on the propeller stirrer for 30-35 min and start cooling the mass of cream. When the temperature of the mass of the cream is 40 ^o C, an oil solution of natural prostaglandins and perfume are introduced.

With further cooling of the cream to a temperature of 15-20 ^o C it is pumped into a container for crystallization for 12 hours

 After 12 hours, the mass of the cream is subjected to plastic processing by rolling.

 Rolled cream is discharged into the workshop packaging and transferred to packaging and labeling.

 The cream has a soothing and hydrating effect, eliminates the effects of dryness and peeling of the skin, smoothes out a network of fine wrinkles, improves skin elasticity.

 The complex of substances and vitamin F contained in the extract of flagopid-oily solution of natural prostaglandins, as part of a cosmetic cream, helps restore microcirculation in the skin: the skin becomes younger, becomes smooth, supple and elastic.

 The cream is recommended for any type of skin, can be used at any time convenient for the patient.

 The cream is applied in a thin layer on the skin of the face and neck for 20-30 minutes, then the non-absorbed cream is blotted with a cosmetic paper towel.

Claims (1)

FACE SKIN CREAM, containing a fat base of stone oil, confectionery fat and anhydrous lanolin, beeswax, pentol, methyl and propyl esters of paraoxybenzoic acid, perfume and water, characterized in that it additionally contains montan wax, urea and natural prostaglandins in amounts 0.8 - 1.2 mg / g in the form of lipid extracts from fungi of the genus Fusarium samburinum, grown on liquid nutrient media and synthesizing mainly prostaglandins of groups E and F, and chicken oil was added to the fat base Coy fraction and glycerol in the following ratio, wt.%:
Stone oil 10 - 25
Low-melting chicken oil 12 - 13
Confectionery Fat 5 - 6
Beeswax 3.5 - 4
Wax Montan 0.4 - 0.6
Anhydrous Lanolin 3 - 4
Pentol 4-6
Urea 0.5 - 1
Solutions of natural prostaglandins 1 - 5
Glycerin 1 - 3
Paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.2 - 0.4
Paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.05 - 0.15
Fragrance 0.4 - 0.6
Water Else