KR20040046695A - A Process for preparing Stretchable Woven Fabric having Two-Way and Soft Stretching Characteristics and the Fabric produced by the process - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: Elastic textile is characterized by having two-way elasticity and soft stretch, having special surface effects(dry touch or drapability) and being lightweight. A manufacturing method thereof is capable of improving workability and reducing a cost. CONSTITUTION: Elastic textile having two-way elasticity and soft stretch is obtained by the steps of: (i) using polyamide type latent crimp composite yarn as warp; using elastic yarn as weft; weaving textile out of the warp and the weft; (ii) scouring and / or dyeing the textile to manifest crimp; and then (iii) reducing the textile to control stretch. The polyamide type latent crimp composite yarn comprises: a high shrinking ingredient comprised of nylon 66 and nylon 6 copolymer having 2.50-3.20 of sulfuric acid relative viscosity; and a low shrinking ingredient comprised of monopolymer of nylon 66 or nylon 6 having 2.40-3.05 of sulfuric acid relative viscosity. On the composite yarn, crimp rate is 30-50% and elastic modulus is at least 50%. The elastic yarn is selected from the group containing only latent crimp yarn, latent crimp yarn interlaced with stretch yarn and span covering yarn.

Description

A process for preparing stretchable woven fabric having two-way and soft stretching characteristics and the fabric produced by the process

The present invention provides a process for weaving fabrics by using a polyamide latent crimped composite yarn as warp yarn and using a stretchable yarn as weft yarn, ii) refining the fabric obtained above. And / or dyeing to express the crimping properties, and iii) adjusting the stretchability of the fabric obtained in step ii) by a narrowing treatment of the fabric having a bidirectional stretch and soft stretch property. It relates to a manufacturing method and a stretch fabric produced accordingly.

In recent years, as the demands and demands of the textile products are diversified, in the fields of climbing clothes, sportswear, protective clothing, industrial materials, etc., various characteristics such as high strength, soft stretch, dry touch, etc. There is an increasing demand for stretch fabrics, and various methods have been studied to produce them.

For the production of a normal stretch fabric, for example, a method using a polyurethane-based fiber excellent in elasticity as a yarn constituting the fabric, or weaving the fabric using the polyurethane fiber and nylon fibers in combination, or polyurethane and nylon The method using the composite yarn of fiber, etc. is known. However, in the former case, the polyurethane-based weft yarn is hard to feel due to the inherent properties of the polyurethane, and the quality of the fabric is not good, and in particular, there is a problem that the drape property is lowered. In the latter case, nylon and polyurethane Differences in dyeability between polymers are inevitable and are not easy to handle during dyeing.

In addition to the above, in order to impart elasticity, separate processing, or burnt, knit deknit (knit deknit) method, etc. have been proposed, but the method has a limit of the elasticity that can be obtained in the case of yarn flamming method, In use, a wide range of elasticity cannot be obtained, and in particular, in the case of the knit denite method, the use range of the fabric is limited due to the crimping instability. In addition, new touch and soft stretch properties, which are newly required in the field of stretch fabrics, cannot be fully expressed by the prior art.

In the case of the above technology, it is not possible to meet the various demands on the fabric characteristics of the consumers as described above, and in addition to the bulkiness of the fabric, it has soft stretch and drape properties that can appeal to human sensitivity, and at the same time, durability of the fabric There has been a need for fabrics that are excellent in friction and tear strength to increase the pressure.

The inventors have made diligent efforts to provide fabrics that have soft stretch properties that can appeal to human sensitivities, which have excellent bulkiness, drape, and high friction and rupture strength and can provide new touches. As a result, the fabric was manufactured from polyamide latent crimped composite yarns and stretchable yarns, followed by crimping in the refining and dyeing process, and the stretched fabric was controlled under specific conditions to control its stretchability. It was confirmed that the fabric having a longitudinal bidirectional stretch can be produced and led to the present invention.

After all, the present invention is to provide a stretch fabric having soft stretch property and novel touch, excellent bulky property, drape property, friction and tear strength, and bidirectional stretch property.

The present invention provides a fabric comprising iii) weaving a polyamide latent crimped composite yarn as a warp yarn and using a stretchable yarn as a weft yarn, ii) refining and / or dyeing the obtained fabric to express crimp properties. And iii) adjusting the stretchability of the fabric obtained in step ii) by the narrowing process, and the stretchable fabric produced according to the above method. It is about.

The stretch fabric according to the manufacturing method of the present invention is 15% to 30% elongation in the weft direction, 80 to 95% elongation recovery, 5% to 30% elongation in the warp direction, 85% to 97% elongation recovery. .

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by dividing step by step.

Iii) step: weaving the latent stretch fabric

Weaving latent stretch fabrics using polyamide latent stretch composite yarn as warp yarn and stretch yarn as weft yarn.

The polyamide latent crimped composite yarn used as the warp yarn in the method according to the present invention is composed of fibers in which individual fibers constituting the yarn are produced by complex spinning of a polyamide copolymer and a polyamide homopolymer. It has a bi-side (S / S) or concentric or eccentric eccentric cross section.

More specifically, the high shrinkage copolymer is a copolymer of nylon 66 and nylon 6 (weight ratio of nylon 66: nylon 6 = 60 to 80% by weight: 40 to 20% by weight), relative to sulfuric acid in the range of 2.50 to 3.20 Has a viscosity. The homopolymer, which is a low shrinkage component, is nylon 6 or nylon 66 and has a sulfuric acid relative viscosity in the range of 2.4 to 3.05.

The latent crimped composite yarn has a fineness of 40d to 200d. In addition, the latent crimped composite yarn should have a crimp ratio in the range of 30% to 50% and an elastic modulus of 50% or more. If the crimp ratio is less than 30%, the stretchability is lowered, and if it is more than 50%, the shrinkage in the fabric is severe. It causes problems in product quality. In addition, when the elastic modulus is less than 50%, the feeling of elasticity in the fabric is significantly reduced, which is not preferable.

The latent crimped composite yarn is included in the fabric 15% by weight or more based on the total weight of the fabric after weaving, when included in less than 15% by weight is not preferred because the elasticity desired in the present invention is not given.

According to the researches of the present inventors, the use of the polyamide latent crimped composite yarn as a slope significantly increases the friction and tear strength of the finally obtained stretch fabric, which is useful for mountaineering suits, traveling suits, and the like. Can be. It is further advantageous in that the final stretch fabric retains drape from the polyamide based latent crimped composite yarn, while exhibiting dry touch due to fine wrinkles on the fabric surface.

In the fabric of the present invention, when the nylon latent yarn is used as a slope, the crimp is given to the slope, so that the cross section (tissue points) of the weft yarns of the fabric are floated and the fabric structure is loose, the effect of the weft The stretch in the direction also has the effect of increasing the elasticity of the fabric in both directions further increases.

The elastic yarn used as the weft yarn in the method according to the present invention is a combination of the latent crimping yarn itself, a stretch twisted yarn (false twisting), the latent crimping yarn and other nylon or PET, etc. It is a yarn selected from the group consisting of interlaced latent crimping yarns and span covering yarns (nylon or cotton, yarns covering spans on PET, etc.).

The weaving method used in step i) of the present invention is not particularly limited, and all known weaving methods can be used.

Ii) step: expression of crimp characteristics through scouring and / or dyeing

The fabric obtained in step iii) is refined and / or dyed to express the crimp characteristics of the latent crimps. The refining and / or dyeing process can use all conventionally known methods.

By the expression of the crimping property, the fabric shrinks 10% to 60% in the width and length directions, and when the shrinkage is less than 10%, the crimping expression is not performed. It is not preferable because of poor commerciality.

Iii) step: adjustment of crimp characteristics by final setting

The fabric exhibiting the crimping property obtained in step ii) is slightly treated to adjust its stretchability.

As used herein, the term " small width treatment " refers to a treatment performed by setting the setting width to be narrower than the width of the fabric on a tenter.

In more detail, the width of the final setting paper is reduced by 3 to 10% of the width of the dyed paper (small width), so that the narrow processing in the above range is preferable for the effective soft stretch performance. As used herein, the term "soft stretch property" refers to a property having softer stretchability when stretched. If the load on the fabric at a certain stretch in the load-extension curve is low, it can be said to have soft stretch properties.

When subjected to the narrow treatment, the obtained fabric will exhibit soft stretch.

The present invention further provides a fabric having soft stretch and dry touch obtained by the above method. The fabric includes the use of latent crimped fibers of class 40d to 200d fineness, and also the expression of crimp by shrinking 10 to 60% in the length and width directions by refining and / or dyeing processes. In the case of the fabric has a wrinkle on the surface of the fabric to exhibit a unique surface effect, it can feel a blackish texture similar to cotton and has a dry touch.

EXAMPLE

Hereinafter, the structure and effect of the present invention will be described in more detail with specific examples and comparative examples, but these examples are only intended to more clearly understand the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.

The measurement of the properties of the yarns and fabrics used in the present invention is according to the following method:

A. Yarn Crimping Rate

Winding 20 times in a warprill to make a skein, immediately after that, non-water treatment for 30 minutes and hot air drying at a temperature of 60 ℃ for 30 minutes. After applying a load of 1/500 (g / d) to the dehydrated sample, the length (a) is measured and the load is removed. Apply 1/20 (g / d) again, measure the length (b) and remove the load. After applying a load of 1/500 (g / d) again, the length (c) is measured, and the crimp rate is calculated by the following equation.

Crimp rate (%) = [(b-a) / b] × 100

B. Elastic Modulus

The elastic modulus is calculated by the following equation with (a), (b) and (c) in the crimp rate measuring method:

Modulus of elasticity (%) = [(b-c) / (b-a)] × 100

C. Fabric Elongation%

Calculated by the static load method in KSK 0352 method.

D.% Recovery

After giving the super load by the static load method in KSK 0352 method, mark on the test piece at intervals of 20 cm, and apply a 1.5 kg load to the test piece. Thereafter, it is left to stand for 1 minute, the length of the displayed interval is measured, and the extension recovery rate is obtained according to the following equation.

Elongation recovery rate (%) = (L ₁ -L _{1 '} ) / (L _1' -L ₀ ) × 100

L ₁ : length of the display interval when left for 1 minute under a 1.5 kg load.

L _{1 ′} : Length of the display interval when only 1.5 kg of the heavy load is reloaded after 30 seconds after the 1.5 kg load and the super load have been removed.

L ₀ : Length of initial display interval (20cm)

The C. elongation rate and the D. elongation recovery rate are the criterion for judging the degree of crimping and stretching of the fabric.

E. Cycling Test

The elasticity and elasticity recovery of the fabric is tested by the following method.

Prepare a sample with a gripping distance of 20 cm. The sample is bitten by the upper clip of the instron and then bitten by the lower clip with an ultra-load of 5 g. The holding distance is 20cm, and recovery is performed after maintaining the fifth time for 30 seconds after 4 repetitions of kidney recovery up to 17% of the sample length. Based on this, the cycling test graph shows the deformation and load curves of the first upload and the fifth download.

F. Wear Strength Measurement

Measure using KSK 0615 method.

Example 1

Potential crimping properties of fineness 70d / 24f obtained by complex spinning of a random copolymer high shrink chip of nylon 66 and nylon 6 (weight composition ratio 70:30) with 96% sulfuric acid relative viscosity 2.6 and a nylon 6 low shrink chip with relative sulfuric acid viscosity 2.47 Composite yarn was used as a slope. The crimp rate of the composite yarn was 50%, and the yarn modulus was 70%. As the weft yarn, a latent crimp yarn of 70d / 24f and an interlaced process of ordinary nylon 70d / 48f two-ply S / T yarn were used. The warp density was 120 bones / in and the weft density was 80 bones / in. The fabric was refined at 90 ° C for 30 minutes in a circular dyeing machine by adding refiner (Monomol LX 0.03%) and 0.05% NaOH, and the fabric was dyed with 2% owf of Teron blue KGGLLl (Dystar) and sand acid. 2g / l, the leveling agent was stained under conditions maintained at 100 ℃ for 60 minutes in a circular dyeing machine using an acid dye in combination with 0.2g / l monopole OA.

In this dyeing process, the contraction is expressed on the fabric while the latent crimping ability is expressed. Afterwards, the last heat setting was carried out, and the setting width was reduced to 5% smaller than the dye width.

According to the method described above, a cycling test of the obtained fabric was carried out, and the results are shown in FIG. 1. As shown in FIG. 1, in the case of the narrowly treated fabric according to the present invention, it can be seen that the load at the maximum deformation (17%) is smaller than that of the widths or widths of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 to be described later. This means that it has soft stretch property at the time of stretching.

In the case of the stretch fabric obtained in this example, it has soft stretch property and has a unique surface effect (bulky feeling, dry touch).

According to the method described above, the elongation and elongation recovery rate of the obtained fabric was measured and the results are shown in Table 1 below. From Table 1, it can be seen that the stretch fabric according to the present invention has excellent bidirectional stretch in both elongation and elongation recovery in the warp direction and the weft direction.

Comparative Examples 1 and 2

The fabric of Comparative Example 1 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the setting width was set at the same width as the dyed paper width at the last heat setting.

The fabric of Comparative Example 2 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the setting width was increased by 5% from the width of the dyeing paper at the time of the last heat setting.

According to the method described above, a cycling test of the fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 obtained above was carried out, and the results are shown in FIG. 1.

According to the method described above, a cycling test of the obtained fabric was carried out, and the results are shown in FIG. 1. As shown in Fig. 1, compared to the woven fabric according to the present invention, the load at the maximum strain (17%) is larger when the width or width of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 is set, and thus the soft stretch property at the time of stretching is high. none.

The cycling test graph according to the setting width is shown in FIG. 1.

1

Comparative Example 3

Example 1 and except that 70d / 24f S / T yarn, a nylon regular yarn, was used as a warp yarn and interlaced yarns of latent crimp yarn and general nylon 70d / 48f 2 合 S / T yarn were used as the weft yarn. It carried out similarly.

According to the method described above, the elongation and elongation recovery rate of the obtained fabric was measured and the results are shown in Table 1 below. From Table 1 below, in the case of the fabric of Comparative Example 3, it can be seen that it has only a one-way elasticity by having a remarkable difference in the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate between the warp direction and the weft direction.

Example 2

A latent crimped composite yarn with a crimp rate of 50% or more and a yarn elasticity of 50% or more was used as a warp, and a 40De span covering yarn was used for cotton 30S 'as a weft yarn. The weaving density was 120 bones / in, and the weft density was 82 bones / in, and weaving was carried out in a weaving loom. The refining and dyeing was performed under the following conditions because the weaving yarn was used as the span covering yarn.

a. Refining: Monomol LX 0.03%, NaOH 0.05%, over water stabilizer, H2O2 is added and the refining process is carried out in a circular dyeing machine for 90 to 30 minutes.

b. Dyeing: Proceed with two bath method, first proceed with dyeing with the nylon dyeing method mentioned in Example 1. After that, dyeing with cotton reactive dye. Add dye (Rifafix N / blue 2GN 1% o.w.f) and salt (forget-me-not 30g / l), hold for 20 minutes, and add alkali (17.5g / l for soda ash) for 60 to 40 minutes.

A stretch fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except for the above. This process gave a soft stretch bidirectional fabric.

According to the method described above, the elongation and elongation recovery rate of the obtained fabric was measured and the results are shown in Table 1 below. From Table 1, it can be seen that the stretch fabric according to the present invention has excellent bidirectional stretch in both elongation and elongation recovery in the warp direction and the weft direction.

Comparative Example 4

70 d / 24f S / T, which is a nylon regular yarn, was used as an inclination, and the same as in Example 1 except that the same span covering yarn as in Example 2 was used as the weft yarn.

According to the method described above, the elongation and elongation recovery rate of the obtained fabric was measured and the results are shown in Table 1 below. From Table 1 below, in the case of the fabric of Comparative Example 3, it can be seen that it has only a one-way elasticity by having a remarkable difference in the elongation rate and elongation recovery rate between the warp direction and the weft direction.

Elongation Elongation recovery Fabric wear strength in inclined direction (number of revolutions to fracture point) direction slope Weft slope Weft Example 1 30 37 93 95 500 Example 2 28 35 96 95 490 times Comparative Example 3 16 32 90 95 300 times Comparative Example 4 20 34 90 91 277 times

Using the method according to the invention, it is possible to obtain a two-way stretch fabric with soft stretch, the stretch fabric according to the invention having excellent elasticity compared to ordinary stretch fibers and soft stretchability. It is an emotional stretch fabric that represents. In addition, it exhibits a unique surface effect (wrinkle or dry touch feeling) that did not exist in the past and can be used in manufacturing a new texture of clothing because it can be lighter than using a span covering yarn. In the weaving and dyeing process, the workability is easier and the cost is reduced compared to the span covering yarn.

Claims (7)

Iii) weaving by using polyamide latent crimped composite yarn as a warp yarn and using a stretchable yarn as a weft yarn to obtain a woven fabric; ii) refining and / or dyeing the obtained fabric to express crimp properties; And iii) adjusting the stretchability of the fabric obtained in step ii) by the narrowing process. The copolymer of nylon 66 and nylon 6 having a relative viscosity of sulfuric acid of 2.50 to 3.20 as the high shrinkage component (nylon 66 composition ratio = 60 to 80 wt%, nylon 6 composition ratio = 40 to 20% by weight) and, as a low shrinkage component, a composite spinning of a homopolymer of nylon 6 or nylon 66 having a relative viscosity of 2.40 to 3.05, and a crimp ratio of the composite yarn is in the range of 30% to 50%, and an elastic modulus A method of producing a fabric, characterized in that the latent crimped composite yarn is more than 50%. The method of claim 1, wherein the stretchable yarn is a stretchable yarn selected from the group consisting of latent stretch yarn alone, or a latent stretch yarn interlaced with a stretch yarn, and a span covering yarn. The method of claim 1, wherein the polyamide latent crimped composite yarn is used at least 15% by weight based on the weight of the fabric. The method of claim 1, wherein the expression of the crimp in step ii) is made by shrinking in the range of 10% to 60% in the width and length directions of the fabric, respectively. The method of claim 1, wherein the narrowing of step iii) is performed by reducing the width of the setting paper by 3 to 10% less than the width of the dyed paper. A fabric produced by the method of claim 1.