KR102495279B1 - Make-up composition of water in oil releasing opaque liquid - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition with excellent phase stability, excellent water resistance and long-lasting makeup while visually differentiated in that an opaque emulsion is released when applied to the skin to give a visual cooling feeling, and a method for manufacturing the same. will be.

Description

Opaque emulsion releasing water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition {Make-up composition of water in oil releasing opaque liquid}

The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition having excellent phase stability, water resistance and long-lasting makeup, as well as a formulation in which an emulsion is immediately released upon application as a make-up cosmetic composition.

Similar to the basic cosmetic composition, various attempts have been made to maximize the feeling of moisture in the makeup cosmetic composition. As an example, a water-in-oil emulsion makeup formulation has been tried, but it has problems in that stability is low and the oil phase and the aqueous phase are easily separated. In addition, a makeup product in the form of a water drop was also tried, but this also had a disadvantage that it had a structure with weak water resistance. In addition, there has been an attempt to immediately give a feeling of moisture when the cosmetic composition is applied, and as part of this attempt, a liquid release formulation has been developed. These liquid release formulations are generally prepared as an in-water type, in which the water phase is immediately released when the cosmetic composition is applied to maximize the feeling of moisture. However, in the case of the water type, the disadvantages of poor water resistance and greatly reduced makeup durability have been pointed out. In addition, liquid release formulations developed to date have limitations in that the release solution is transparent, making visual differentiation difficult in color products.

Therefore, the problem to be solved by the present invention is a water-in-oil cosmetic composition that has strong water resistance, excellent makeup durability, and maintains phase stability, while releasing an opaque emulsion upon application to impart an immediate feeling of moisture and visually differentiated. It is to provide a cosmetic composition and a manufacturing method of such a cosmetic composition.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention is a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition comprising a crosspolymer having dimethicone as a main chain and a hydrophilic coupling group as an emulsifier, and including an uncoated inorganic pigment, characterized in that, Provided is a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition of an opaque emulsion-releasing formulation and a method for preparing the same.

In order to overcome the disadvantages of the water-in-water cosmetic composition, such as poor durability and water resistance and long-term stability, the present inventors have made a water-in-oil cosmetic composition that is excellent in durability and water resistance, but has a cool and soft feeling when used. There is a problem that it is difficult to give, and to overcome this problem, a liquid release formulation was developed.

However, the water-in-oil cosmetic composition of the liquid release formulation has problems in that phase stability is difficult to maintain and the oil phase and the aqueous phase are easily separated.

Therefore, after various attempts, a water-in-oil cosmetic composition containing dimethicone as a main chain as an emulsifier and a crosspolymer containing a hydrophilic coupling group and containing an uncoated inorganic pigment was developed, which solves all the problems described above. It is possible, and moreover, since an opaque emulsion is released, it was confirmed that there is a visually differentiated effect, and the present invention was completed.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

In the present invention, the term "liquid release formulation" means that when the cosmetic composition is applied, the shear force generated by application or rubbing of the cosmetic composition ruptures the water-in-oil structure to reveal the internal aqueous phase in the form of water droplets (water drops). means form. The term "water drop form" is only intended to describe the shape (form) of the aqueous phase to be released, and does not mean that the components constituting the aqueous phase are limited to water. The area to which the cosmetic composition is applied may be determined according to the specific use of the cosmetic composition, and may include non-fibrous keratin materials of the human body, such as skin, mucous membranes, or nails, and may contain internal aqueous It is common in that the image is revealed in the form of water droplets.

In the present invention, the term "opaque emulsion (or opaque liquid) release formulation" refers to an opaque liquid emulsion among liquid release formulations, and has a light transmittance of less than 100%, preferably less than 50%, and more preferably 30%. Less than 10%, more preferably less than 10%, most preferably less than 1%, has a light reflecting property, and there may be differences in opacity, brightness, saturation or color depending on the type of uncoated inorganic pigment included in the cosmetic composition. can, but is not limited to.

In the water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to the present invention, a crosspolymer containing dimethicone as a main chain and containing a hydrophilic coupling group is used as an emulsifier.

The hydrophilic linking group may be preferably selected from the group consisting of a polyglyceryl linking group, a polyethylene glycol linking group, and a polypropylene glycol linking group, for example, dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, dimethicone. /Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10/Lauryl Dimethicone Chicon crosspolymer and the like may be included, but most preferably dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, or a mixture thereof may be used.

The crosspolymer having dimethicone as a main chain and including a hydrophilic coupling group may be included in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more and 10% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or more and 8% by weight or less, still more preferably 3% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It may be included by weight % or more and 7 weight % or less. When included less than 0.1% by weight, phase stability is not maintained, and when it exceeds 10% by weight, the emulsion release effect is insignificant.

In the water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to the present invention, an uncoated inorganic pigment is included.

The term "uncoated" means that the inorganic pigment is not coated with another coating base. Preferably, it is possible to maintain an uncoated state even in the distribution and storage stages from the manufacturing stage of the cosmetic composition. The uncoated inorganic pigment according to the present invention can remain uncoated regardless of whether a coating agent or/and an additional component coated with the coating agent (eg, coated inorganic pigment) is included in the cosmetic composition. In the present invention, the uncoated inorganic pigment forms a film between the interface between the aqueous phase and the oil phase, suppresses coalescence between water phase particles, and improves the stability of the cosmetic composition.

Examples of the inorganic pigment include titanium oxide, mica, silica, talc, zinc oxide, sericite, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, barium sulfate, iron oxide, or a mixture of two or more thereof. It is not limited thereto, and various inorganic pigments used in the art may be used.

The uncoated inorganic pigment may be included in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more and 5% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or more and 4% by weight or less, and still more preferably 1% by weight or more and 3% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. can be included When included less than 0.1% by weight, phase stability is not maintained and the opacity of the liquid phase to be released is low, and when it exceeds 5% by weight, formulation stability is poor.

The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to the present invention includes an oil phase component and an aqueous phase component in addition to the above components.

The oily component may include various types of oils known in the art, for example, silicone-based oils, ester-based oils, or mixtures thereof may be used, but are not limited thereto, and various oils used in the art may be used. And, preferably, a mixture of silicone-based oil and ester-based oil may be used. Examples of the ester-based oil include dipentaerythritylhexaC5-9 acid ester, C12-15 alkyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetylethylhexanoate, cetylocta cetyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl laurate, di(C12-C13) alkyl maleate (di(C12-C13) alkylmalate), myristyl lactate, octyldodecyl stearoylstearate, diisosteayl malate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and di Glyceryl triisostearate (diglyceryl triisostearate) and the like may be used, but is not limited thereto, and various ester-based oils used in the art may be used. In addition, silicone-based oils may be used without limitation as long as they are commonly used in the art, and examples include cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclophenylmethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, and cyclotrisiloxane. Siloxane, dimethicone, capryldimethicone, caprylyltrimethicone, caprylylmethicone, cetearylmethicone, hexadecylmethicone, hexylmethicone, laurylmethicone, myristylmethicone, phenylmethicone, Stearylmethicone, skearyldimethicone, trifluoropropylmethicone, cetyldimethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, methylctrimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltri Methicone or the like may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Most preferably, a mixture of silicone-based oil and ester-based oil may be used.

The oily component may be used in an amount of 15% by weight or more and 35% by weight or less, more preferably 20% by weight or more and 30% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The oil phase of the water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to the present invention may include, for example, an emulsifier and a sunscreen in addition to the above oily components, but is not limited thereto.

An inorganic sunscreen, an organic sunscreen, or a mixture thereof may be used as the sunscreen, for example, a benzophenone-based sunscreen such as benzophenone-3, a cinnamate-based sunscreen such as ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, ethyl Salicylate-based sunscreens such as hexyl salicylate and triazine-based sunscreens such as bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine may be included, but are not limited thereto, and various sunscreens used in the art may be used. there is.

The sunscreen may be included in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more and 15% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and when less than 0.1% by weight, sufficient sunscreen effect may not be exerted, and in the case of 15% by weight or more, there may be a problem in physical properties.

The emulsifier may include a second emulsifier in addition to the above-described crosspolymer having dimethicone as a main chain and including a hydrophilic coupling group, and emulsifiers used in the art may be used without limitation. For example, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG -10/1 dimethicone, lauryl PEG-10 tri(trimethylsiloxy)silethyl dimethicone, etc. may be used, but is not limited thereto.

The total weight of the emulsifier included in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably 80% by weight or more, more preferably 90% by weight or more, of the crosspolymer having dimethicone as a main chain and containing a hydrophilic coupling group.

In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the aqueous phase component includes water, and sterilized demineralized water and / or floral water, for example, rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or limewater, and/or natural hot spring water or mineral water. The water may also include reconstituted thermal spring water, i.e., water in which the characteristics of the thermal water have been reconstituted, including trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, and the like.

In addition to water, the aqueous phase component of the water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further include various compounds used as aqueous phase components in the art to impart a refreshing and moist feeling of use. For example, betaine, butylene glycol, polyhydric alcohol, sugar and protein complexes, organic acids, organic salts, glycerin, and polyol humectants such as propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol can be used alone or in combination of two or more with water. there is.

The aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further include, in addition to the above aqueous phase components, an ion sequestering agent, an emulsion stabilizer, a preservative, and the like, but is not limited thereto.

The weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the oil phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more and 4 or less, more preferably 1.5 or more and 3 or less, and this phase ratio excludes the weight of inorganic pigments and pigments.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further include a pigment in addition to the non-coated inorganic pigment. The pigments may include compounds described as examples that can be used as the inorganic pigments, but are different from non-coated inorganic pigments in that they are surface-treated and coated with organic, inorganic, or silicon.

The additionally included pigment may be included in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more and 10% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If the amount is less than 0.1% by weight, sufficient coloring effect may not be exhibited, and if it is more than 10% by weight, there may be a problem in physical properties. can

The make-up cosmetic composition according to the present invention is, for example, a face powder, a compact, a two-way cake, a foundation, or a make-up base such as a make-up base, or a partial point make-up such as eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, lip gloss, or lipstick. It may be cups, but is not limited thereto.

The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by the following method:

(S1) mixing an oil component and an emulsifier;

(S2) adding and dispersing inorganic pigments and pigments to the mixture;

(S3) adding an aqueous phase component to an oil phase in which inorganic pigments and pigments are dispersed,

As the emulsifier, a crosspolymer containing dimethicone as a main chain and a hydrophilic linking group is included,

The inorganic pigment is an uncoated inorganic pigment.

The step (S1) is a step of preparing an oil phase, in step (S2), pigments may be dispersed together in addition to inorganic pigments, and step (S3) corresponds to a step of emulsifying by adding an aqueous phase to the oil phase.

The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to the present invention can also be prepared by the following method:

(S1) mixing an oil component and an emulsifier;

(S2) adding and dispersing a pigment to the mixture;

(S3) adding and dispersing an inorganic pigment to the aqueous phase component: and

(S4) adding an aqueous phase component in which the inorganic pigment is dispersed to the oil phase in which the pigment is dispersed,

As the emulsifier, a crosspolymer containing dimethicone as a main chain and a hydrophilic linking group is included,

The inorganic pigment is an uncoated inorganic pigment.

According to the present invention, as a make-up cosmetic composition, it is visually differentiated in that an opaque emulsion is released when applied to the skin to give a visual cooling sensation, and a water-in-oil type make-up cosmetic composition having excellent phase stability, water resistance and longevity of makeup is provided.

The following drawings attached to this specification illustrate preferred embodiments of the present invention, and serve to further understand the technical idea of the present invention together with the contents of the above-described invention, so the present invention is limited to those described in the drawings. It should not be construed as limiting.
1 shows a photograph of the opaque liquid released as a result of applying the water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the skin.

Hereinafter, examples and the like will be described in detail to aid understanding of the present invention. However, the embodiments according to the present invention can be modified in many different forms, and the scope of the present invention should not be construed as being limited to the following examples. Embodiments of the present invention are provided to more completely explain the present invention to those skilled in the art.

Example . water-in-oil type foundation emulsified manufacturing

According to Tables 1 and 2 below, water-in-oil foundation emulsions were prepared. In the present specification, the contents of the compositions are expressed in weight% unless otherwise specified.

An oil phase component, an emulsifier, and a sunscreen were added to the oil phase tank, heated to 60 degrees, and homogenized with a homomixer. After confirming the uniform state, pigments and inorganic pigments were added and completely dispersed. Water phase components, ion sequestering agent, emulsification stabilizer and preservative were put in the aqueous phase tank, and after completely dissolving the raw materials at 60 ° C, they were added to the oil phase phase in which the pigment was dispersed and emulsified with a homomixer to prepare a water-in-oil type foundation emulsion. .

Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Example 1 Comparative Example 3 oily ingredients silicone oil 15 15 15 15 ester oil 5 5 5 5 emulsifier PEG-10 dimethicone 2 2 0.5 0.5 PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer - - 5 5 sunscreen Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 7 7 7 7 pigment Titanium oxide (dimethacone coating) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 iron oxide 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 inorganic pigment Titanium oxide (Coating X) 2 - 2 - water component Purified water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Butylene Glycol 10 10 10 10 sequestering agent Disodium EDT 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 emulsion stabilizer sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 antiseptic 1,2-hexanediol One One One One

Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Example 2 Comparative Example 6 oily ingredients silicone oil 15 15 15 15 ester oil 5 5 5 5 emulsifier PEG-10 dimethicone 2 2 0.5 0.5 Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer - - 5 5 sunscreen Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 7 7 7 7 pigment Titanium oxide (dimethicone coating) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 iron oxide 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 inorganic pigment Titanium oxide (Coating X) 2 - 2 - water component Purified water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Butylene Glycol 10 10 10 10 sequestering agent Disodium EDT 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 emulsion stabilizer sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 antiseptic 1,2-hexanediol One One One One

Experimental example 1. Experiments to confirm stability and latex release

An experiment was performed to confirm the stability and emulsion (opaque liquid) release of the cosmetic composition prepared according to the above-described method. The stability test was confirmed through the presence or absence of a phase change at 40 °C for 4 weeks, and the test to confirm the release of opaque liquid was confirmed through whether or not opaque water droplets were formed on the skin when the sample was applied to the skin.

As a result, the stability of the examples was particularly excellent, and the opaque liquid release phenomenon was confirmed only in the examples. It is expected that the crosspolymer used as an emulsifier wraps around the inner phase of the water-in-oil emulsion composition, and when friction is applied, the structure is broken and the aqueous phase component is released in the form of water droplets. At this time, the uncoated hydrophilic inorganic pigment exists at the interface and It is expected to help form opaque water droplets with a stability enhancing effect by, but this does not limit the present invention.

Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Example 1 Comparative Example 3 Opaque liquid release X X O Y Stability (2 weeks) △ △ O X Stability (4 weeks) X X O X

Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Example 2 Comparative Example 6 opaque liquid release X X O Y Stability (2 weeks) △ △ O X Stability (4 weeks) X X O X

In Tables 3 and 4, the stability indicates excellent stability in the order of X<Δ<O, and means formulation stability against phase separation and the like. Additionally, with respect to opacifier release, X indicates no opacifier release, O indicates presence of opacifier release, and Y indicates presence of clearer release.

Experimental example 2. Cosmetic property evaluation experiment

Instrumental analysis and sensory evaluation on cosmetic properties were conducted.

Comparative Example 7 (water-in-water (O/W) water drop formulation) was prepared according to Table 5. More specifically, the water phase component, ion sequestering agent, and preservative were added to the water tank, heated to 60 degrees, and homogenized with a homomixer. After that, the emulsifier was added slowly. The pigment was added and completely dispersed. After putting the oil phase ingredients and sunscreen in the oil phase tank and completely dissolving the raw materials at 60, it was added to the water phase tank in which the pigment was dispersed and emulsified with a homomixer to prepare an oil-in-water foundation emulsion.

Comparative Example 7 oily ingredients cyclopentasiloxane 5 isododecane 5 emulsifier biosaccharide gum 3 sunscreen Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5 pigment titanium oxide 5 iron oxide One water component Purified water to 100 Butylene Glycol 5 sequestering agent Disodium EDT 0.05 antiseptic 1,2-hexanediol One

Since the stability of Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 3 was not good, the evaluation was conducted within 3 days after manufacture.

The water resistance test was conducted as follows. L value (color difference meter, JCS-10) was measured after applying cosmetics between the wrist and the elbow (2 cm in width and height). Thereafter, after washing with running water for 30 seconds, the water was wiped off, and the water was completely removed by pressing once with a tissue, and the L value was measured. The L value was recorded as the average of the measured values at three random application sites.

For skin temperature measurement, the difference in skin temperature before and after makeup was measured three times using SPOT THERMOMETER (TA-0510F, Minolta), the average value was obtained, and the difference was recorded.

The sensory evaluation of cooling sensation, the evaluation of makeup durability, and the overall product satisfaction were investigated according to the 5-point scale method with 20 consumers in their 20s and 30s.

Comparative Example 7 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 3 Example 1 Water resistance rating* bad Great Great Great Cooling sensation** △2.5 △2.1 △2.2 △2.2 Cooling sensory evaluation*** 3.5 3.5 4.0 4.5 Make-up Persistence Assessment*** 2.3 4.3 4.3 4.4 Overall product satisfaction*** - 4.0 4.1 4.5

* △(L'-L)/L x 100

L: measured value before water resistance test, L': measured value after water resistance test

1 or less: excellent, 1 to 2: average, 2 or more: poor

** Temperature difference before and after skin application (20 consumers in their 20s and 30s)

*** Consumer evaluation on a 5-point scale (20 consumers in their 20s and 30s)

As a result, Comparative Example 7 showed poor water resistance due to the nature of the liquid release formulation or water-type. In the case of the cooling sensation confirmed through the temperature difference before and after skin application, a correlation was shown with the water phase content, but in the sensory evaluation of the cooling sensation, Example 1 showed the best results. It is determined that this is an effect due to the visual cooling sensation given when the opaque liquid is directly applied to the skin, but this judgment does not limit the present invention. In addition, it was confirmed that Example 1 showed the highest values in makeup durability and overall satisfaction.

Claims (9)

In the water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition,
It includes a crosspolymer having dimethicone as a main chain as an emulsifier and including a hydrophilic linking group selected from the group consisting of a polyglyceryl linking group, a polyethylene glycol linking group, and a polypropylene glycol linking group,
Characterized in that it comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of uncoated inorganic pigments titanium oxide, mica, silica, talc, zinc oxide, sericite, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, barium sulfate and iron oxide,
A water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition of an opaque liquid-releasing formulation. delete delete The method of claim 1, wherein the water-in-oil cosmetic composition further comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of an oil component, a sunscreen agent, a pigment, an aqueous phase component, an ion sequestering agent, an emulsification stabilizer, and a preservative. A water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition. The water-in-oil type makeup cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the crosspolymer having dimethicone as a main chain and containing a hydrophilic coupling group is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the total cosmetic composition. The water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the inorganic pigment is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the total cosmetic composition. The water-in-oil cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the water-in-oil cosmetic composition has a weight ratio of the water phase to the oil phase of 1 or more and 4 or less. (S1) mixing an oil component and an emulsifier;
(S2) adding and dispersing an inorganic pigment to the mixture;
(S3) including the step of adding an aqueous phase component to the oil phase in which the inorganic pigment is dispersed,
As the emulsifier, a crosspolymer having dimethicone as a main chain and including a hydrophilic linking group selected from the group consisting of a polyglyceryl linking group, a polyethylene glycol linking group, and a polypropylene glycol linking group,
The inorganic pigment is at least one selected from the group consisting of titanium oxide, mica, silica, talc, zinc oxide, sericite, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, barium sulfate and iron oxide, which are uncoated inorganic pigments.
A method for producing a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition of an opaque liquid-releasing formulation. (S1) mixing an oil component and an emulsifier;
(S2) adding and dispersing a pigment to the mixture;
(S3) adding and dispersing inorganic pigments to aqueous phase components; and
(S4) adding an aqueous phase component in which the inorganic pigment is dispersed to the oil phase in which the pigment is dispersed,
As the emulsifier, a crosspolymer having dimethicone as a main chain and including a hydrophilic linking group selected from the group consisting of a polyglyceryl linking group, a polyethylene glycol linking group, and a polypropylene glycol linking group,
The inorganic pigment is at least one selected from the group consisting of titanium oxide, mica, silica, talc, zinc oxide, sericite, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, barium sulfate and iron oxide, which are uncoated inorganic pigments.
A method for producing a water-in-oil makeup cosmetic composition of an opaque liquid-releasing formulation.

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