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KR102332943B1 - A cosmetic composition for improving skin aging, containing an extract derived from Sargassum yezoense as an active ingredient - Google Patents

A cosmetic composition for improving skin aging, containing an extract derived from Sargassum yezoense as an active ingredient Download PDF

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KR102332943B1
KR102332943B1 KR1020200050246A KR20200050246A KR102332943B1 KR 102332943 B1 KR102332943 B1 KR 102332943B1 KR 1020200050246 A KR1020200050246 A KR 1020200050246A KR 20200050246 A KR20200050246 A KR 20200050246A KR 102332943 B1 KR102332943 B1 KR 102332943B1
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extract
skin aging
active ingredient
cosmetic composition
improving skin
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KR20210131754A (en
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정병섭
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유한회사 프리티스킨인터내셔널
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9711Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

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Abstract

본 발명은 해조류의 한 종류인 왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물에 관한 것으로, 보다 구체적으로 왜모자반 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 것을 특징으로 하는 왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물이 개시된다.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving skin aging containing, as an active ingredient, an extract derived from Japanese algae, which is a kind of seaweed, and more specifically, to an extract derived from Japanese mother-of-pearl, characterized in that it contains an extract derived from Japanese algae as an active ingredient. Disclosed is a cosmetic composition for improving skin aging containing as an ingredient.

Description

왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물{A cosmetic composition for improving skin aging, containing an extract derived from Sargassum yezoense as an active ingredient}A cosmetic composition for improving skin aging, containing an extract derived from Sargassum yezoense as an active ingredient}

본 발명은 해조류의 한 종류인 왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving skin aging, comprising an extract derived from Japanese algae, which is a kind of seaweed, as an active ingredient.

피부의 노화는 시간 의존성 자연노화에 따른 내인성 노화(intrinsic aging)와 외부적 요인에 의한 외인성 노화(extrinsic aging)로 구분할 수 있다. 바람, 온도, 공해, 자외선 등에 의한 외인성 노화 중 자외선에 의한 노화를 광노화라고 한다. 지속적인 자외선 노출은 피부의 활성산소종의 증가를 유도하여 광노화가 진행된다. 피부에 도달한 자외선은 표피에 활성산소를 과하게 생성시키고 이에 의해 멜라닌 세포의 불규칙한 멜라닌생성으로 인한 색소 침착을 관찰할 수 있다. 또한, 각질형성세포의 배열을 불규칙적으로 변화시켜 피부보습을 저하시킨다. 활성산소의 자극을 받은 각질형성세포는 염증성 사이토카인을 분비하여 진피의 섬유아세포를 자극시켜, NF-κB경로와 AP(activator protein)-1의 DNA 결합(binding)을 촉진시킨다. 상기 AP-1의 DNA 결합 촉진에 의해 금속단백질분해효소(Metalloprotease, MMPs)의 발현을 증가시킨다. 반면에, 1형 프로콜라겐의 합성을 감소시켜 결과적으로 콜라겐 생합성 저해 및 분해 촉진을 유발시켜 피부주름을 형성하며 탄력 감소를 일으킨다. 이러한 생화학적인 기전에 근거하여 광노화 피부에서는 자외선 조사에 의한 활성산소가 가장 중요한 원인으로 여겨지고 있다.Skin aging can be divided into intrinsic aging due to time-dependent natural aging and extrinsic aging due to external factors. Among extrinsic aging caused by wind, temperature, pollution, and ultraviolet rays, the aging caused by ultraviolet rays is called photoaging. Continuous UV exposure induces an increase in reactive oxygen species in the skin, leading to photoaging. Ultraviolet rays reaching the skin excessively generate active oxygen in the epidermis, thereby observing pigmentation due to irregular melanogenesis in melanocytes. In addition, the arrangement of keratinocytes is irregularly changed, thereby reducing skin moisture. Keratinocytes stimulated by reactive oxygen species secrete inflammatory cytokines to stimulate fibroblasts in the dermis, thereby promoting DNA binding of the NF-κB pathway and activator protein (AP)-1. The expression of metalloprotease (MMPs) is increased by promoting the DNA binding of AP-1. On the other hand, by reducing the synthesis of type 1 procollagen, as a result, it inhibits collagen biosynthesis and promotes decomposition, thereby forming skin wrinkles and reducing elasticity. Based on these biochemical mechanisms, active oxygen induced by UV irradiation is considered to be the most important cause in photoaging skin.

따라서, 피부 노화방지와 주름개선에 있어서 활성산소를 제거하는 항산화 물질이나 콜라겐 분해 작용 억제 및 콜라겐 합성을 촉진시키는 소재의 발굴이 중요시 된다.Therefore, in preventing skin aging and improving wrinkles, it is important to discover an antioxidant that removes active oxygen or a material that inhibits collagen decomposition and promotes collagen synthesis.

1. 대한민국등록특허공보 제10-2025634호1. Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 10-2025634 2. 대한민국공개특허공보 제10-2020-0038755호2. Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 10-2020-0038755

본 발명에서는 왜모자반 유래 추출물의 주름개선에 대한 효능을 확인하고, 그 효능을 나타내는 피부노화 개선에 좋은 효능을 보이는 활성물질의 존재를 확인하고, 규명하여 왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물을 제공하는 것을 그 해결과제로 한다. In the present invention, the wrinkle improvement effect of the Wamojaban-derived extract is confirmed, and the existence of an active material showing good efficacy in improving skin aging showing the effect is confirmed and identified, and the skin containing the Wamojaban-derived extract as an active ingredient It is an object to provide a cosmetic composition for improving aging.

상기한 과제를 해결한 본 발명의 왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물은 1) 건조된 왜모자반을 메탄올(MeOH)로 1차 추출하여 건조하여 제조한 조추출물을 준비하는 단계와,The cosmetic composition for improving skin aging containing the extract derived from jabanum of the present invention as an active ingredient, which has solved the above problems, 1) prepare a crude extract prepared by first extracting dried jabanum with methanol (MeOH) and drying it step and

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2) 상기 조추출물 1kg에 아세톤 3L씩을 이용하여 실온에서 3회 추출하고 감압건조하여 추출물을 얻는 단계의 추출방법에 의해 추출되는 왜모자반 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하며, 활성물질로 하기 화학식 2를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물.
[화학식 2]

Figure 112021100687830-pat00027
2) 1 kg of the crude extract is extracted three times at room temperature using 3 L of acetone and dried under reduced pressure to obtain the extract. A cosmetic composition for improving skin aging comprising an extract derived from jabanum as an active ingredient, characterized in that
[Formula 2]
Figure 112021100687830-pat00027

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본 발명에서 제공되는 왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물은 왜모자반 유래 추출물 및 활성물질들의 피부노화 개선에 대한 활성을 측정한 결과 PPARα 활성에 대해서는 SHQA가 활성 정도가 더 높았고, 필라그린과 인볼루크린의 발현을 증가시켜주어 피부보습에 매우 효과가 있음을 알 수 있다. As a result of measuring the activity of the extract and active substances for improving skin aging, the cosmetic composition for improving skin aging, which contains the extract derived from jabanum from the present invention, as an active ingredient, SHQA has a higher degree of activity with respect to PPARα activity. It can be seen that it is very effective in moisturizing the skin by increasing the expression of filaggrin and involucrin.

또한, 표피진피경계부에 영향을 미치는 MMP-2와 MMP-9의 활성을 저해하여 표피진피경계부를 보호해줄 수 있음을 알 수 있고, Elastase 활성도 저해하여서 피부 탄력 저하도 막아줄 수 있는 효과가 있음을 확인할 수 있었다. In addition, it can be seen that by inhibiting the activities of MMP-2 and MMP-9 that affect the epidermal-dermis boundary, it can protect the epidermal-dermis boundary, and it also has the effect of preventing the deterioration of skin elasticity by inhibiting the Elastase activity. could check

또한, 진피의 분해에 관여하여 주름생성에 매우 중요한 역할을 하는 MMP-1의 발현증가를 억제하여 주름생성 억제 효능도 뛰어남을 알 수 있었다. In addition, it was found that the expression of MMP-1, which plays a very important role in wrinkle formation by participating in the decomposition of the dermis, was suppressed, and thus the anti-wrinkle effect was also excellent.

또한, SY추출물은 다중타겟에 효능이 있는, 즉 피부노화 개선에 매우 효능이 높아서 향후 주름개선 기능성화장품 소재로 매우 우수한 가치가 있는 좋은 소재이다.In addition, SY extract is effective for multiple targets, that is, it is very effective in improving skin aging, so it is a good material with very good value as a functional cosmetic material for improving wrinkles in the future.

도 1은 본 발명의 일실시예에 따른 왜모자반 추출 및 분획공정도이다.
도 2는 도 1의 소분획 중 2, 3, 4번째 소분획의 크로마토그램을 도시한 것이다.
도 3 내지 도 5는 도 2의 소분획 2, 3, 4번째의 왜모자반으로부터 분리동정된 컴파운드 1의 HPLC 및 NMR분석 그래프이다.
도 6은 본 발명의 일실시예에 따른 왜모자반추출물의 PPAR transactivation 결과를 도시한 것이다.
도 7은 본 발명의 일실시예에 따른 왜모자반추출물의 필라그린/인볼루크린 발현시험 결과를 도시한 것이다.
도 8은 본 발명의 일실시예에 따른 왜모자반추출물의 MMP-2 및 MMP-9활성억제 효능시험 결과를 도시한 것이다.
도 9는 본 발명의 일실시예에 따른 왜모자반추출물의 엘라스타제(Elastase)시험 결과를 도시한 것이다.
도 10은 본 발명의 일실시예에 따른 왜모자반추출물의 MMP-1 및 Procollagen발현시험 결과를 도시한 것이다.
도 11은 본 발명의 일실시예에 따른 왜모자반추출물의 라디칼 소거능(DPPH)시험 결과를 도시한 것이다.
1 is a diagram showing the extraction and fractionation process of jabanum according to an embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 2 shows chromatograms of the second, third, and fourth subfractions among the subfractions of FIG. 1 .
3 to 5 are HPLC and NMR analysis graphs of compound 1 isolated and identified from the small fractions 2, 3, and 4 of FIG. 2 .
Figure 6 shows the results of PPAR transactivation of jabanum extract according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Figure 7 shows the filaggrin / involucrin expression test results of the genus Capricorn extract according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Figure 8 shows the results of the MMP-2 and MMP-9 activity inhibition efficacy test of the wamojaban extract according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Figure 9 shows the results of the elastase (Elastase) test of the jabanum extract according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Figure 10 shows the results of the MMP-1 and Procollagen expression test of the jasmine extract according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Figure 11 shows the radical scavenging ability (DPPH) test results of the extract according to an embodiment of the present invention.

이하, 본 발명을 바람직한 실험예를 들어 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to preferred experimental examples.

본 발명은 왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물을 제공하는 것을 그 목적으로 하는 것으로,An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for improving skin aging, which contains an extract derived from Wamojaban as an active ingredient,

보다 상세하게는 본 발명의 왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물은 왜모자반 추출물을 유효성분으로 포함하는 것으로, In more detail, the cosmetic composition for improving skin aging containing the extract derived from jabanum of the present invention as an active ingredient comprises the extract from jabanum jabanum as an active ingredient,

상기 왜모자반 추출물은 도 1에 도시된 바와 같은 추출 및 분획공정에 따라 추출되는 것을 특징으로 하며, 보다 구체적으로 하기의 방법에 의해 추출되는 것이다.The Wamojaban extract is characterized in that it is extracted according to the extraction and fractionation process as shown in FIG. 1, and more specifically, it is extracted by the following method.

1) 건조된 왜모자반을 메탄올(MeOH)로 1차 추출하여 건조하여 제조한 조추출물을 준비하는 단계.1) A step of preparing a crude extract prepared by first extracting the dried jabanon with methanol (MeOH) and drying it.

2) 상기 조추출물 1kg에 아세톤 3L씩을 이용하여 실온에서 3회 추출하고 감압건조하여 추출물을 얻는 단계.2) Using 3 L of acetone to 1 kg of the crude extract, extracting three times at room temperature and drying under reduced pressure to obtain an extract.

본 발명에 따르면 상기 왜모자반 추출물은 활성물질로서 하기 화학식 1 내지 3을 포함하는 것이다. According to the present invention, the wamojaban extract contains the following Chemical Formulas 1 to 3 as an active material.

[화학식 1][Formula 1]

Figure 112020042666066-pat00005
Figure 112020042666066-pat00005

[화학식 2][Formula 2]

Figure 112020042666066-pat00006
Figure 112020042666066-pat00006

[화학식 3][Formula 3]

Figure 112020042666066-pat00007
Figure 112020042666066-pat00007

본 발명에 따르면, 바람직하게 상기 왜모자반 추출물은 하기 화학식 1을 피부노화 개선용 활성물질로 하기 화학식 1이 추출물총량에 대하여 10중량% 이상 함유되어 있는 것을 그 기술적 특징으로 한다. According to the present invention, preferably, the wamojaban extract contains the following Chemical Formula 1 as an active material for improving skin aging, wherein the following Chemical Formula 1 contains 10% by weight or more with respect to the total amount of the extract.

[화학식 1][Formula 1]

Figure 112020042666066-pat00008
Figure 112020042666066-pat00008

이상의 본 발명에 따른 왜모자반 추출물은 본 발명자들에 의해 사전 실험결과 98종의 해양천연물 라이브러리로부터 피부 노화 개선에 좋은 효능을 보이는 왜모자반 추출물을 확인하였고, 효능 검증 결과 PPARα와 PPARγ를 활성화시키고, 이를 기반으로 피부보습에 관여하는 필라그린 및 인볼루크린의 발현을 촉진시키며, 항산화 활성을 가지며 피부의 DEJ분해에 관여하는 MMP-2와 MMP-9의 활성을 억제하며, 피부탄력 저하에 관여하는 elastase의 활성을 감소시킴을 확인하였다. As a result of the preliminary experiment by the present inventors, the Wamojaban extract according to the present invention confirmed the Wamojaban extract showing good efficacy in improving skin aging from 98 kinds of marine natural product libraries. It promotes the expression of filaggrin and involucrin, which are involved in skin moisturizing, has antioxidant activity, and inhibits the activities of MMP-2 and MMP-9 involved in the decomposition of skin DEJ, and is an elastase that is involved in lowering skin elasticity. It was confirmed that the activity of

또한 미백에 관여하는 tyrosinase의 활성을 저해하며 tyrosinase 성숙에 관여하는 α-glucosidase의 활성 또한 저해함을 확인하여 왜모자반 추출물은 피부노화와 미백에 매우 우수한 효능을 보이는 기능성 소재로 개발될 가능성이 높은 것으로 판단된다.In addition, it was confirmed that it inhibits the activity of tyrosinase involved in whitening and also inhibits the activity of α-glucosidase involved in tyrosinase maturation. is judged

본 발명을 구성하는 왜모자반 추출물의 주름개선에 대한 효능을 확인하기 위하여 먼저, MMP-1의 발현 정도와 collagen I의 분해정도를 확인하고, 기준 및 시험방법을 설정하기 위한 지표성분 확인을 하여보았고, 또한 분리된 활성성분들에 대한 효능 검색도 수행하여 왜모자반의 활성을 나타내는 성분을 확인하여 보았다.In order to confirm the efficacy of the extract for wrinkle improvement constituting the present invention, first, the expression level of MMP-1 and the decomposition level of collagen I were checked, and the index component was checked for setting standards and test methods. , and also performed an efficacy search on the isolated active ingredients to confirm the ingredients showing the activity of Wamojaban.

<시험방법><Test method>

1. 해조류의 채집 및 조추출물의 조제1. Collection of seaweed and preparation of algae extract

동해안 인근에서 채집한 해조류를 식물도감 등을 통하여 비교분석하여 동정하고, 건조시킨 후 MeOH로 추출하여 건조하여 제조한 것을 조추출물로 본 연구에 사용하였다. Seaweeds collected near the east coast were identified by comparative analysis through a botanical book, etc., dried, extracted with MeOH, and dried to be used as a crude extract in this study.

2. 활성성분의 분리 및 확인2. Isolation and identification of active ingredients

건조된 왜모자반(1Kg)을 아세톤 3L씩을 이용하여 실온에서 3회 추출하고 감압건조하고, 추출물(35g)을 물에 현탁한 후 헥산(Hx)과, 에칠아세테이트(EA)로 분획하여 건조하여 각각의 분획 건조물 4g과 30g을 얻었다. 이중 EA분획을 silica gel vacuum solumn chromatography를 사용하여 n-hexane, ethyl acetate and MeOH (10:1:0, 3:1:0, 1:1:0, 0:1:0, 0:10:1, 0:5:1, and 0:0:1; each 500mL) 용매조건에서 7개의 subfraction으로 나누었다. 이중 2, 3, 4 소분획(24.8g 중 5g)을 합쳐서 C18 reverse phase Prep HPLC[Gilson 321; Phenomenex® Luna C18 (2) 10 μmcolumn (21.2×250mm); 10mL/min ; UV detection at 250nm] 에 50% - 100% MeCN/H2O (in 0.02% TFA, for 60min) 용매조건으로 적용하여 compound 1(SHQA 3.5g) 과 compound2 (SC), compound 3 (SQA 40mg)을 얻었다. The dried Japanese capsicum (1Kg) was extracted three times at room temperature using 3L of acetone, dried under reduced pressure, the extract (35g) was suspended in water, and fractionated with hexane (Hx) and ethyl acetate (EA) and dried, respectively. 4 g and 30 g of dry fractions were obtained. The double EA fraction was purified by silica gel vacuum solumn chromatography with n-hexane, ethyl acetate and MeOH (10:1:0, 3:1:0, 1:1:0, 0:1:0, 0:10:1). , 0:5:1, and 0:0:1; each 500mL) was divided into 7 subfractions under solvent conditions. Of these, 2, 3, and 4 small fractions (5 g out of 24.8 g) were combined and C 18 reverse phase Prep HPLC [Gilson 321; Phenomenex ® Luna C18 (2) 10 μ mcolumn (21.2 × 250mm); 10mL/min; UV detection at 250nm], 50% - 100% MeCN/H 2 O (in 0.02% TFA, for 60 min) solvent conditions to extract compound 1 (SHQA 3.5 g), compound 2 (SC), and compound 3 (SQA 40 mg) got it

3. 피부노화에 대한 활성검색3. Active search for skin aging

3.1. PPAR Transactivation assay3.1. PPAR Transactivation assay

원숭이 신장 상피세포주인 CV-1 세포를 24공 평판에 깐 다음 24시간 배양 후 PPAR α/δ/γ, + PPRE-Luc + pRL-SV40 3종류의 플라스미드 유전자를 Transient transfection하였다. 24시간 배양 후 후보물질들을 농도별로 처리하여 다시 24시간 배양 후 세포를 lysis 하여 Dual-luciferase reporter assay system을 사용하여 발현된 luciferase의 활성을 측정하였다.CV-1 cells, a monkey kidney epithelial cell line, were spread on a 24-hole plate and cultured for 24 hours, followed by transient transfection with three types of plasmid genes: PPAR α/δ/γ, + PPRE-Luc + pRL-SV40. After incubation for 24 hours, candidate substances were treated by concentration, and cells were lysed after incubation for 24 hours to measure the activity of expressed luciferase using a dual-luciferase reporter assay system.

3.2. 필라그린/인볼루크린 발현 측정3.2. Measurement of filaggrin/involucrin expression

human keratinocyte에서 유래된 HaCaT 세포주를 60mm 디쉬에 분주하고 1일간 배양한 후 각각의 후보물질을 처리한 다음 24시간 배양하고, 세포를 트리졸(Trizol)을 이용하여 total RNA를 분리하여 RT-PCR을 통해 필라그린/인볼루크린 발현양을 비교하고 필요한 경우 단백질을 분리하여 western blot을 수행하고, density를 측정하여 정량하였다. HaCaT cell line derived from human keratinocyte was aliquoted into 60 mm dishes, cultured for 1 day, treated with each candidate material, and cultured for 24 hours, and total RNA was isolated using Trizol and RT-PCR Filaggrin/involucrin expression levels were compared, and if necessary, protein was isolated, western blot was performed, and density was measured and quantified.

3.3. MMP-2, -9 활성 억제 효능 측정3.3. MMP-2, -9 Activity Inhibition Efficacy Measurement

NHF에 TPA를 처리한 후 상등액에 MMP-2 또는 -9 효소를 유도한 후 본 실험에 사용함. 상등액을 Gelatin zymography gel에 electrophoresis한 후 Buffer1 (2% Triton X-100)을 처리하여 renaturation 시킨 후 Buffer2 (50mM Tris pH8.0, 5mM CaCl2, 0.02% NaN3)와 후보물질을 동시에 처리하여 24시간 반응시킨 후 생성된 band는 Coomassie brilliant blue로 염색하여 band density를 측정하였다. After treatment with TPA in NHF, MMP-2 or -9 enzyme was induced in the supernatant and used in this experiment. After electrophoresis of the supernatant on the Gelatin zymography gel, it was treated with Buffer1 (2% Triton X-100) for renaturation, and then treated with Buffer2 (50mM Tris pH8.0, 5mM CaCl 2 , 0.02% NaN 3 ) and candidate substances simultaneously for 24 hours. After the reaction, the generated band was stained with Coomassie brilliant blue to measure the band density.

3.4. Elastase 활성 억제 효능 측정3.4. Measurement of Elastase Activity Inhibition Efficacy

human leukocyte elastase 내지는 porcine elastase에 후보물질과 기질을 처리하여 반응시킨 후 분해되어 나온 p-nitroaniline의 양을 405nm에서 흡광도 측정하였다.After reacting human leukocyte elastase or porcine elastase with a candidate substance and substrate, the amount of decomposed p-nitroaniline was measured for absorbance at 405 nm.

3.5. MMP-1 및 procollagen 발현에 미치는 영향3.5. Effect on MMP-1 and procollagen expression

정상섬유아세포 (NHF) 또는 세포주인 Hs68세포를 이용하여 UVB 또는 TNFα로 자극을 준 후 분비되는 MMP-1 또는 procollagen의 양을 ELISA 및 western blot을 이용하여 측정하였다. The amount of MMP-1 or procollagen secreted after stimulation with UVB or TNFα using normal fibroblasts (NHF) or cell line Hs68 cells was measured using ELISA and western blot.

3.6. DPPH 자유라디칼 소거활성3.6. DPPH free radical scavenging activity

추출물 및 화합물의 검체를 적당한 농도로 추출용매에 희석한 용액과 100uM DPPH 용액을 균일하게 혼합한 다음 실온에서 30분간 방치한 후, 517nm에서 흡광도를 측정하였다.The extract and the sample of the compound were uniformly mixed with a solution diluted in an extraction solvent to an appropriate concentration with a 100 uM DPPH solution, and then left at room temperature for 30 minutes, and then absorbance was measured at 517 nm.

<시험결과><Test result>

1. 왜모자반으로부터 분리된 화합물1. Compounds isolated from Dwarf Mojaban

왜모자반의 추출 및 분획은 도 1에 도시된 바와 같은 Scheme으로 진행하였다. Extraction and fractionation of dwarf hat was carried out with the scheme shown in FIG. 1 .

상기 추출 및 분획에서 EA분획 7개의 소분획 중 2, 3, 4번째 소분획의 HPLC 크로마토그램분석을 하여보았고, 그 결과는 첨부도면 도 2에 도시된 바와 같다. In the extraction and fractionation, HPLC chromatogram analysis of the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th subfractions of the 7 subfractions of the EA fraction was performed, and the results are as shown in FIG. 2 of the accompanying drawings.

[HPLC 크로마토그램분석][HPLC Chromatogram Analysis]

HPLC chromatogram using a linear gradient of 10 to 100% aqueous acetonitrile (0.02% TFA) for 30min( Column, Phenomenex Luna 15u C18(2) 4.6 x 100 mm; flow, 1ml/min, UV detection at 250nm). HPLC chromatogram using a linear gradient of 10 to 100% aqueous acetonitrile (0.02% TFA) for 30 min ( Column, Phenomenex Luna 15u C18(2) 4.6 x 100 mm; flow, 1ml/min, UV detection at 250nm).

SHQA-t R 26.423 min SQA-t R 31.320 minSHQA- t R 26.423 min SQA- t R 31.320 min

분리된 Compound는 Varian 500MHz spectrometer를 통하여 구조를 분석하였다. 분석결과 compound1은 Sargahydroquinoic acid로 compound3는 Sargaquinoic acid로 확인되었다. 가운데의 작은 peak는 sargachromenol로 확인되었다.(첨부도면 도 3 내지 5 참조)The separated compound was analyzed for its structure through a Varian 500 MHz spectrometer. As a result of the analysis, compound 1 was identified as sargahydroquinoic acid and compound 3 as sargaquinoic acid. A small peak in the middle was confirmed with sargachromenol. (See attached drawings 3 to 5)

Peak 1Peak 1

Figure 112020042666066-pat00009
Figure 112020042666066-pat00009

Peek 2Peek 2

Figure 112020042666066-pat00010
Figure 112020042666066-pat00010

Peak 3Peak 3

Figure 112020042666066-pat00011
Figure 112020042666066-pat00011

상기 분리된 화합물 중 compound1인 sargahydroquinoic acid가 MeOH 추출물 중 10% 이상을 차지하여 지표물질로 설정하였다. Among the separated compounds, compound 1, sargahydroquinoic acid, accounted for more than 10% of the MeOH extract and was set as an indicator material.

2. 피부노화에 대한 활성 시험2. Activity test for skin aging

2.1 PPAR Transactivation 2.1 PPAR Transactivation

먼저 PPARα와 PPARγ에 대한 transactivation 정도를 측정한 결과 10ug/ml로 처리했을 때 각각 양성대조군의 75%, 70% 활성화시켰다.First, as a result of measuring the degree of transactivation for PPARα and PPARγ, 75% and 70% of the positive control group were activated when treated with 10ug/ml, respectively.

Effects of SY extracts of PPARα/γ transcriptional activity Effects of SY extracts of PPARα/γ transcriptional activity PPARα(%)PPARα (%) PPARγ(%)PPARγ (%) SY 10ug/mlSY 10ug/ml 75.2575.25 70.3570.35 Wy14,643Wy14,643 100 (4.2 fold)100 (4.2 fold) TroglitazoneTroglitazone 100 (4.7 fold)100 (4.7 fold)

SY에서 분리된 화합물인 SHQA와 SQA에 대한 transactivation을 측정한 결과 SQA는 PPARγ에 대해 SHQA는 PPARα에 대해 높은 활성을 보여주었다. SY 중에는 SHQA가 지표성분으로 고려가 될 만큼 더 많이 존재하고 있으므로 SHQA에 의한 피부노화 개선 효능이 기대된다. (도 6 참조)As a result of measuring transactivation for SHQA and SQA, the compounds isolated from SY, SQA showed high activity against PPARγ and SHQA against PPARα. In SY, there is more SHQA to be considered as an index component, so the effect of improving skin aging by SHQA is expected. (See Fig. 6)

2.2. 필라그린/인볼루크린 발현 2.2. Filaggrin/involucrin expression

피부 보습에 관여하는 단백질인 필라그린과 인볼루크린의 발현을 측정한 결과 SY추출물과 SHQA, SQA 10 ug/ml, 10uM로 처리한 군에서 높은 발현율을 보여 피부보습에 좋은 효능을 주는 원료로 사료된다.(도 7 참조)As a result of measuring the expression of filaggrin and involucrin, the proteins involved in skin moisturizing, high expression rates were shown in the group treated with SY extract, SHQA, SQA 10 ug/ml, and 10 uM, so it is a feed as a raw material with good skin moisturizing effect. (see Fig. 7)

2.3. MMP-2, -9 활성 억제 효능 2.3. MMP-2, -9 activity inhibitory effect

피부의 표피진피 경계부 분해에 관여하는 단백질인 MMP-2, MMP-9의 활성저해에 미치는 영향을 zymography와 western blot을 통하여 측정하였다. 활성 및 발현 저해 정도는 100 ug/ml 또는 100uM로 처리하였을 때의 band의 density를 측정하여 나타내었다. (도 8 참조)The effect on the inhibition of the activity of MMP-2 and MMP-9, proteins involved in the decomposition of the epidermis and dermis of the skin, was measured by zymography and western blot. The degree of activity and expression inhibition was shown by measuring the density of the band when treated with 100 ug/ml or 100 uM. (See Fig. 8)

2.4. Elastase 활성 억제 효능 2.4. Elastase activity inhibitory effect

피부의 탄력에 영향을 주는 elastase 저해능에 대해서는 돼지와 사람에서 분리된 elastase를 활용하여 100 ug/ml 또는 100 uM에서 저해능을 평가하였다. Human elastase에서 훨씬 높은 저해능을 보여주어 탄력개선에도 도움을 줄 수 있는 소재로 사료된다.(도 9 참조)For the inhibitory ability of elastase affecting skin elasticity, the inhibitory ability was evaluated at 100 ug/ml or 100 uM using elastase isolated from pigs and humans. It is considered to be a material that can help improve elasticity by showing a much higher inhibitory ability in human elastase. (See FIG. 9)

2.5. MMP-1 및 procollagen 발현에 미치는 영향2.5. Effect on MMP-1 and procollagen expression

피부진피의 교원질 분해에 매우 큰 영향을 주는 MMP-1의 발현 및 collagen의 분해 억제 효능을 측정해 보았다. MMP-1의 경우 발현양을 줄여주어 주름예방에 효능이 있음을 확인할 수 있었으며, SY와 SHQA의 경우 활성이 더 강함을 알 수 있었다. collagen의 경우는 분해에 대해서는 막아주는 효능이 그다지 강하지 않음을 확인할 수 있었다. (도 10 참조)The expression of MMP-1, which has a great effect on collagen degradation in the dermal dermis, and the efficacy of inhibiting collagen degradation were measured. In the case of MMP-1, it was confirmed that it was effective in preventing wrinkles by reducing the amount of expression, and in the case of SY and SHQA, the activity was stronger. In the case of collagen, it was confirmed that the effect of preventing decomposition was not very strong. (See Fig. 10)

2.6. 라디칼 소거능에 대한 효능2.6. Efficacy on radical scavenging ability

SY 및 SHQA, SQA의 라디칼 소거능에 대한 효능은 DPPH법으로 측정하였다. 100ug/ml에서의 저해능과 IC50값을 구해보았다. 측정 결과 모두 라디칼 소거능이 매우 뛰어남을 확인할 수 있었다. (도 11 참조)The efficacy of SY, SHQA, and SQA on radical scavenging activity was measured by the DPPH method. The inhibitory ability and IC 50 values at 100 ug/ml were obtained. As a result of the measurement, it was confirmed that the radical scavenging ability was very excellent. (See Fig. 11)

이상의 시험결과로부터 본 발명자들은 피부노화 개선 소재로 선정된 왜모자반추출물(SY)의 지표성분은 추출물의 10% 이상을 차지하는 sargahydroquinoic acid (SHQA)로 선정하는 것이 바람직한 것으로 판단된다. From the above test results, the present inventors judged that it is preferable to select sargahydroquinoic acid (SHQA), which accounts for 10% or more of the extract, as the indicator component of the serrano jasmine extract (SY) selected as a skin aging improvement material.

또한, 추출물 및 화합물들의 피부노화 개선에 대한 활성을 측정한 결과 PPARα 활성에 대해서는 SHQA가 활성 정도가 더 높았고, 필라그린과 인볼루크린의 발현을 증가시켜주어 피부보습에 매우 효과가 있음을 추정할 수 있었다. In addition, as a result of measuring the activity of the extracts and compounds for skin aging improvement, it was estimated that SHQA had a higher level of activity for PPARα activity, and it was very effective in moisturizing the skin by increasing the expression of filaggrin and involucrin. could

또한 표피진피 경계부에 영향을 미치는 MMP-2와 MMP-9의 활성을 저해하여 표피진피 경계부를 보호해줄 수 있음을 확인하였으며, Elastase 활성도 저해하여서 피부 탄력 저하도 막아줄 수 있음을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한 진피의 분해에 관여하여 주름생성에 매우 중요한 역할을 하는 MMP-1의 발현증가를 억제하여 주름생성 억제 효능도 뛰어남을 확인할 수 있었다. In addition, it was confirmed that it can protect the epidermal-dermis boundary by inhibiting the activities of MMP-2 and MMP-9 that affect the epidermal-dermis boundary, and it was confirmed that it can also prevent the deterioration of skin elasticity by inhibiting the elastase activity. In addition, it was confirmed that the anti-wrinkle effect was also excellent by suppressing the increase in the expression of MMP-1, which plays a very important role in the generation of wrinkles by participating in the decomposition of the dermis.

SY추출물에 대해서 tyrosinase 및 α-glucosidase에 대해 저해효능이 있어 미백효능이 있을 것으로 예측하였으나, Melan-a 세포를 이용한 멜라닌 생성시험에서 효능이 나타나지 않아 미백에는 효능이 없는 것으로 판단된다. The SY extract had an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and α-glucosidase, so it was predicted to have a whitening effect.

이상의 확인결과, SY는 다중타겟에 효능이 있는, 즉 피부노화 개선에 매우 효능이 높아서 향후 주름개선 기능성 화장품 소재로 개발할 가치가 있는 좋은 소재로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 판단된다. As a result of the above confirmation, it is judged that SY can be used as a good material worthy of development as a functional cosmetic material for wrinkle improvement in the future because it is effective in multiple targets, that is, it is very effective in improving skin aging.

Claims (4)

삭제delete 1) 건조된 왜모자반을 메탄올(MeOH)로 1차 추출하여 건조하여 제조한 조추출물을 준비하는 단계와,
2) 상기 조추출물 1kg에 아세톤 3L씩을 이용하여 실온에서 3회 추출하고 감압건조하여 추출물을 얻는 단계의 추출방법에 의해 추출되는 왜모자반 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하며, 활성물질로 하기 화학식 2를 포함하는 것을 특징으로 하는 왜모자반 유래 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유하는 피부노화 개선용 화장료 조성물.
[화학식 2]
Figure 112021100687830-pat00028
1) preparing a crude extract prepared by first extracting the dried jabanon with methanol (MeOH) and drying;
2) 1 kg of the crude extract is extracted three times at room temperature using 3 L of acetone and dried under reduced pressure to obtain the extract. A cosmetic composition for improving skin aging comprising an extract derived from jabanum as an active ingredient, characterized in that
[Formula 2]
Figure 112021100687830-pat00028
삭제delete 삭제delete
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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101446295B1 (en) * 2012-06-29 2014-10-06 한국과학기술연구원 Composition for anti-aging containing sargassum yezoense extract
KR101644753B1 (en) * 2015-08-07 2016-08-01 부경대학교 산학협력단 Cosmetic composition comprising Sargassum serratifolium extract for skin whitening

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KR100945780B1 (en) * 2007-11-12 2010-03-05 관동대학교산학협력단 Vasodilator comprising extract of Sargassum micracanthum, extract of Sargassum yezoense and sargahydroquinoic acid
KR102025634B1 (en) 2017-01-23 2019-10-04 명지대학교 산학협력단 Cosmetic composition containing gastrodiae elata for prevention of skin-aging
KR102125409B1 (en) 2018-10-04 2020-06-22 주식회사 코리아나화장품 Cosmetic Composition for Improving Skin Wrinkle Contaning the Extract of Fermented Vibumum Opulus

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR101446295B1 (en) * 2012-06-29 2014-10-06 한국과학기술연구원 Composition for anti-aging containing sargassum yezoense extract
KR101644753B1 (en) * 2015-08-07 2016-08-01 부경대학교 산학협력단 Cosmetic composition comprising Sargassum serratifolium extract for skin whitening

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