KR101120660B1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING a-HYDROXY ACID AND ETHER SURFACTANT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing alpha-hydroxy acid (hereinafter referred to as 'AHA') and excellent in exfoliation effect and water-washable, and more particularly, to alpha-hydroxy acid, It relates to an ether-based surfactant, a water-soluble high-molecular substance and an amino acid-based anionic surfactants, excellent in exfoliation efficacy, less irritation, excellent in use and water-cleaning cosmetic composition for massage or washing.

Alpha-hydroxy acid, amino acid anionic surfactant, xanthan gum, ether surfactant, water washing.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing alpha-hydroxy acid and an ether type surfactant {COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING α-HYDROXY ACID AND ETHER SURFACTANT}

[Industrial use]

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an alpha-hydroxy acid and capable of washing with water, and more particularly, to an alpha-hydroxy acid, which includes an alpha-hydroxy acid, which is excellent in exfoliation ability, as well as excellent in stability, low irritation and feeling of use. It relates to a cosmetic composition capable of excellent water washing.

[Private Technology]

Originally, alpha-hydroxy acid (hereinafter referred to as 'AHA') has been prescribed in high concentrations by dermatologists in the past to treat wounds and lesions on various skin such as callus, acne, It has been used for the purpose of treating dry skin, preventing dandruff and exfoliation. And Ichihara et al., J. Biol Chem . , Vol 0225, pp. In 945-958 (1957), scientific researches such as the ease of skin penetration and the mechanism of action that are absorbed deep into the stratum corneum due to the low molecular weight of AHA have been conducted. It is used as a functional product that is added directly to the whole process or product in the treatment stage for all whitening and wrinkles in the medical institution for the purpose.

As the function and efficacy of AHA have been specified as described above, a lot of practical researches have been conducted. Using hydroxybutyl acid, 3-OH hydroxybutyl acid or lactic acid, a composition excellent in treating young children was realized. In Korean Patent Publication No. 2003-0079231, sebum branch of lactic acid together with antibacterial sphingolipid Invented a cosmetic composition for treating acne by using the role of removing pores and clogging of the pores. In addition, US Pat. No. 6,486,106 uses zwitterionic surfactants and nonionic surfactant alkylpolyglucosides as a detergent base, which uses AHAs to soften and smoothen the skin, as well as additional additives that AHAs can provide. The cleansing composition using the acne and antibacterial function which are a function is described.

However, there are many disadvantages besides the advantages of AHA, and the composition containing AHA requires a low pH environment composition in order to have various limitations that the formulation requires, that is, due to the limited and low molecular weight of the formulation. It has a problem of causing skin irritation due to the increased ease of skin penetration. In particular, this safety problem is a fatal drawback for Asian women who are relatively weak from skin irritation and stimulation sources of external environment, and extremely refrained from using AHA cosmetics. In order to overcome this problem, U.S. Patent No. 5,652,266 has applied AHA to cosmetic emulsifiers, but it is relatively limited to water-in-oil type, which is less affected by pH, and even though it has a stable emulsion, Although US Pat. No. 6,486,106 invented a cleaning composition using amphoteric surfactants or anionic surfactants as surfactants having a low impact on strong acids, this was again a cosmetic massage or cleaning cleansing. The skin irritation safety required by the formulation was not satisfactory.

The present invention is to solve the above problems, an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition capable of excellent exfoliation ability as well as excellent stability, less skin irritation, excellent use and water wash.

The present invention, in order to achieve the above object, 0.1 to 15 parts by weight of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), 0.1 to 10 parts by weight of ether-based surfactant, 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of water-soluble polymer material and the amino acid anion of the formula It provides a cleaning cosmetic composition comprising 0.1 to 2 parts by weight of the surfactant.

(Formula 1)

R is C ₁₀ To C ₂₂ saturated or unsaturated carbon chain.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention includes alpha-hydroxy acid (α-hydroxy acid, hereinafter referred to as 'AHA') and thus has a significant exfoliation function. Examples of such AHAs are lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxyisobutyl acid, 3-hydroxyisobutyl acid, citric acid, galacturonic acid, manderic acid, mucin alpha- Micic α-phenyllactic acid, phenylpyruvic acid, saccharic acid, hydroxybutyl acid, hydroxyisobutyl acid, hydroxyisocaproic acid, hydroxyisocaproic acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid, atrolactic acid ), Dihydroxy maleic acid, dihydroxy tartaric acid, dihydroxy fumaric acid and benzyl formic acid may be one or more selected from, and may preferably be lactic acid or glycolic acid. The cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain 0.1 to 15 parts by weight of the AHA, and if less than 0.1 parts by weight, the effect is insignificant, and if it exceeds 15 parts by weight, skin irritation may not be excluded.

In general, the cosmetic composition includes a surfactant, in the case of oil-in-water cosmetic composition which is an advantageous type for skin application, an ester-based surfactant is used. However, when the ester-based surfactant is mixed with AHA, the stability of the overall cosmetic composition is significantly affected by the pH of the AHA.

Accordingly, the present inventors have prepared a cosmetic composition that maintains stability even in the reaction with AHA by using an acid-based strong ether-based surfactant instead of the ester-based surfactants generally used in oil-in-water compositions.

As the ether-based surfactant used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, at least one surfactant obtained by dehydration by adding 5 to 20 moles of polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol to a higher alcohol having 12 to 22 carbons is used. You can choose to use it. The ether-based surfactant may be included in 0.1 to 10 parts by weight, when less than 0.1 parts by weight can not be expected to obtain the stability, if it exceeds 10 parts by weight it is not possible to obtain a satisfactory feeling of use of the oil-in-water type agent .

In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has the effect of stabilizing the entire composition by preventing the coalescence of the oil particles as it comprises a water-soluble polymer, preferably as a water-soluble polymer may be xanthan gum. Such a water-soluble polymer material is included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in 0.01 to 5 parts by weight, when less than 0.01 parts by weight, the stability is lowered, and when it exceeds 5 parts by weight, the feeling of use is not good.

The composition of the present invention includes an anionic surfactant, in which case it may be possible to wash the water by using an amino acid-based anionic surfactant. As the amino acid-based anionic surfactant, 0.1 to 2 parts by weight of one or more selected from the group consisting of compounds represented by the following general formula (1) may be used. If it is less than 0.1 part by weight, a satisfactory cleaning feeling cannot be given. If it is more than 2 parts by weight, skin irritation is high.

(Formula 1)

R is C ₁₀ To C ₂₂ saturated or unsaturated carbon chain.

More specifically, the amino acid-based anionic surfactant is a compound which may be represented by Chemical Formula 1, and one selected from the group consisting of saturated or unsaturated carbon chains having 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, and 22 R in Formula 1 It may be more than.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be included in a massage or washing cosmetic. The massage or cleaning cosmetics are emulsified cosmetic formulations for the purpose of massage or cleansing, and may be all cosmetics prepared in general including oils such as lotions and creams.

The cosmetic including the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be a cosmetic agent containing 10 to 70 parts by weight of the total cosmetic composition according to the formulation. In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be washed with water by including the amino acid-based anionic surfactant.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to experimental examples and examples. However, the embodiments according to the present invention may be modified in various other forms that are conventional to those skilled in the art, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to the embodiments described below.

Example  1 to 3: preparation of cleansing cream containing AHA

After completely dissolving the water phase, oil phase and surfactant according to the composition of Table 1 at room temperature, the dissolved oil phase was slowly added to the water phase and emulsified for 4 minutes with stirring at a homomixer 4500 to 5500 RPM, and then cooled to 50 ° C. Again, AHA was added at 3 parts by weight based on the total composition, stirred for 2 minutes, and cooled to room temperature to prepare.

Comparative example  1 to 4

A cleansing cream including AHA was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the type of surfactant and potassium hydroxide were included according to the composition of Table 1 below.

Raw material name (weight part) Example
One Example
2 Example
3 Comparative example
One Comparative example
2 Comparative example
3 Comparative example
4 Number
Prize
Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 Dipropylene
Glycol 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 EDTA-3Na (5%) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Carbomer - - - 0.3 - 0.3 - Acrylate / C10 ~ C30 Alkylacrylate Copolymer - - - - 0.3 0.3 - Xanthan Gum 0.1 0.1 0.1 - - - 0.1 U
Prize Stearic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cetearyl alcohol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Mineral oil 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 Parabens 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Octyldodecanol 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cetylethyl
Hexanoate 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 system
if
bow
castle
My PEG20-
Stearyl ether 2.0 - 1.5 - - 2.0 1.0 PPG-15
Stearyl ether - 2.0 1.5 - - 2.0 1.0 PEG-40
Stearate - - - 1.0 2.0 - - Sorbitan
Stearate - - - 1.0 2.0 - - Potassium
Cocoylglycinate 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.5 corrector Potassium hydroxide - - - 0.12 0.12 0.12 - AHA Lactic acid 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 -

Example  4 to 6: preparation of cleansing lotion comprising AHA

After completely dissolving the water phase and oil phase at room temperature according to the composition of Table 2, the dissolved oil phase was slowly added to the water phase and emulsified for 4 minutes with stirring at a homomixer 4500 to 5500 RPM, and then cooled to 50 ° C. 3 parts by weight of the total composition was added, stirred for 2 minutes, and cooled to room temperature to prepare a cleansing lotion.

Comparative example  5 to 7

A cleansing lotion including AHA was prepared in the same manner as in Example 5 except for the type of surfactant and potassium hydroxide according to the composition of Table 2 below.

Raw material name (weight part) Example
4 Example
5 Example
6 Comparative example
5 Comparative example
6 Comparative example
7 Number
Prize
Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 Dipropylene
Glycol 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 EDTA-3Na (5%) 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Carbomer - - - 0.3 - 0.3 Acrylate / C ₁₃ ~ ₃₀ alkyl acrylate copolymer - - - - 0.3 0.3 Xanthan Gum 0.3 0.3 - - - - U
Prize Diethoxyethyl
Rosinate 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Parabens 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Macadamia Oil 2.0 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Cetylethyl
Hexanoate 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 system
if
bow
castle
My PEG20-
Stearyl ether 2.0 - 1.5 - - - PPG-15
Stearyl ether - 2.0 1.5 - - - PEG-40
Stearate - - - 1.0 2.0 3.0 Sorbitan
Stearate - - - 1.0 2.0 3.0 Potassium
Cocoylglycinate 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - corrector Potassium hydroxide - - - 0.12 0.12 0.12 AHA Lactic acid 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

Comparative example  8

A cream containing AHA was prepared in the same manner as in Example 5 by mixing the components in the composition of Table 3 without using an amino acid-based surfactant.

Raw material name (weight part) Comparative Example 8 Awards Purified water To 100 Dipropylene glycol 10.0 glycerin 5.0 EDTA-3Na (5%) 0.4 Xanthan Gum 0.1 Paid Diethoxyethyl rosinate 3.0 Parabens 0.2 Macadamia Oil 2.0 Cetylethylhexanoate 10.0 Surfactants PEG20-stearyl ether 1.5 PPG15-stearyl ether 1.5 corrector Potassium hydroxide - AHA Lactic acid 3.0

Experimental Example  1: Evaluation of stability

For the cosmetic compositions prepared in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4, Examples 4 to 6 and Comparative Examples 5 to 7, 50 ℃, 0 ℃, 40 ℃, 45 ℃ cycle chamber (-10 ℃-> 45 ℃-> -10 ℃) after storage for 1 month to evaluate the stability is shown in Table 4 and Table 5.

(Very good: ◎, Good: O, Moderate: △, Slight separation and sweating: X, Severe separation: XX)

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 50 ℃ ◎ ◎ 0 XX X X ◎ 45 ℃ ◎ ◎ ◎ XX X X ◎ 40 ℃ ◎ ◎ ◎ X X X ◎ 0 ◎ ◎ ◎ X X X ◎ Cycle ◎ 0 ◎ XX X X ◎ Room temperature ◎ ◎ ◎ X X X ◎

Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 6 Comparative Example 7 50 ℃ O ◎ O X XX X 45 ℃ ◎ ◎ O X X XX 40 ℃ O O O X X X 0 ◎ ◎ O X XX X Cycle O O ◎ XX X XX Room temperature ◎ O O X X X

PEG-20 stearyl, which is an example of ether-based surfactants, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2 and 5 to 7, using PEG-40 stearate or sorbitan stearate, which are examples of ester-based surfactants in Tables 4 and 5, In the case of Examples 1 to 6 using ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether or potassium cocoylglycinate, it was found that a more stable cosmetic composition could not be obtained.

In addition, it can be seen that in Examples 1 to 6 using the ether-based surfactant, an example further comprising xanthan gum can produce a more stable cosmetic composition than an example in which no xanthan gum is included.

Experimental Example  2: stimulation test

In order to confirm the irritation of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, one of the typical stimulation of AHA was performed a sting test. The subjects were 30 healthy women aged 20 to 35 years.

Sting test measurement method was adapted in a constant temperature and humidity room conditions maintained at 27 ℃ and 70% relative humidity for about 15 minutes after washing the soap. And 10 seconds, 2.5 minutes, 5 minutes, 8 minutes after applying the cleansing cream obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 evenly around the nose and cheeks, subjective judgment by the test subject was recorded according to the criteria by time period. Thereafter, Example 1 was washed and Comparative Example 1 was left without washing for 20 minutes, and then again the magnetic poles of each sample were measured and shown in Table 6 below.

<Based on sting score>

Sting test Judgment 0.0 ± 0.3 No stinging effect 0.4 ± 1.0 Slightly stingy 1.1 ± 2.0 Stinging 2.1 ± 3.0 Causes severe stinging

sample Example 1 Comparative Example 1 time 0.5 sec 2.5 minutes 5 minutes 8 minutes 20 minutes 10 sec 2.5 minutes 5 minutes 8 minutes 20 minutes Hourly
score 0.1 0.2 0.15 0.1 0.15 0.1 0.2 0.2 1.0 2.5 Average score 0.14 0.8

As shown in Table 6, it can be seen that the cosmetic composition of Example 1 obtained by the production method of the present invention is less irritant than the comparative example. In addition, it was also found that after irritation was measured at 8 minutes, skin irritation increased in Comparative Example 1 after 20 minutes without washing.

Experimental Example  3: Exfoliation  evaluation

The exfoliation promoting effect of the cleansing cream compositions of Example 4 and Comparative Example 7 was measured. The test subjects were 30 healthy males between 20 and 40 years old. The color of the subject's upper arm was measured with a Chroma meter (CR-200, Minolta, Japan) before application, and 0.4 ml of 10% dihydroxy acetone (DHA) was added to the Hill top chamber The Hill Top Companies. It was attached to the inside of the arm upper arm for 6 hours. After 24 hours, the color of the brown-colored part was measured by DHA, and the color difference was compared with before the sample application. After applying the sample twice a day after measuring the degree of discoloration every day by using a chroma meter to measure the time it takes to return to the original skin color, and the keratin peeling rate was calculated by the following formula is described in Table 7. In the above experiment, the product was massaged by hand for 2 minutes when the product was applied, and the effect was measured by washing with water.

Exfoliation rate (%) = (Blank TT-TT during sample application) / Blank TT x 100

TT (Turnover Time):

The time taken for the existing stratum corneum to be replaced by the new stratum corneum. In this experiment, the time taken for the skin to be colored by DHA to be completely restored.

Sample Type Turnover Time (days) Exfoliation rate Blank 18.4 ± 3.8 - Comparative Example 7 16.9 ± 5.2 8.1% Example 4 14.3 ± 4.6 22.2%

Blank ^* : No sample applied after staining with DHA.

As shown in Table 7, it was found that the cream composition of Example 4 was significantly superior in exfoliation effect compared to Comparative Example 7 to which the ester-based surfactant was added. Therefore, it can be seen that the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used as a cosmetic for whitening as the ether-based surfactant does not reduce the exfoliation effect of AHA compared to the comparative example using the ester-based surfactant.

  The cosmetic composition of the present invention has excellent exfoliation ability including AHA, has stability by using an ether-based surfactant, and enables water washing despite being an emulsified cosmetic by using an amino acid-based anionic surfactant.

Claims (7)

Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) 0.1 to 15 parts by weight, ether surfactant and 0.1 to 10 parts by weight of the aqueous polymer material and 0.01 to 5 parts by weight of the wash containing 0.1 to 2 parts by weight of the amino acid-based anionic surfactant Cosmetic composition for. (Formula 1)

R is C ₁₀ To C ₂₂ saturated or unsaturated carbon chain. The method of claim 1, The alpha-hydroxy acid includes lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxyisobutyl acid, 3-hydroxyisobutyl acid, citric acid, galacturonic acid, manderic acid, mucin Alpha-phenyllactic acid, phenylpyruvic acid, saccharic acid, hydroxybutyl acid, hydroxyisobutyl acid, hydroxyisocaproic acid, hydroxyisocaproic acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid, atro lactic acid ( atrolactic acid), dihydroxymaleic acid, dihydroxytartaric acid, dihydroxyfumaric acid, and benzyl formic acid. The method of claim 1, The ether-based surfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of surfactants obtained by adding 5 to 20 moles of polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol to a higher alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms to dehydrate. The method of claim 1, The aqueous polymer material is xanthan gum cleaning cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, The amino acid-based anionic surfactant is a compound of Formula 1, wherein R is at least one selected from the group consisting of saturated or unsaturated carbon chains of 12, 14, 16, 18, 20 and 22. A cosmetic or cleaning cosmetic cream comprising 35 to 60 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, 40 to 65 parts by weight of oil and a residual amount of water. A cosmetic or washing cosmetic lotion comprising 80 to 90 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, 10 to 20 parts by weight of oil and a residual amount of water.