KR101044597B1 - Cosmetic compostions comprising andiroba oils - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin whitening or anti-wrinkle comprising an andyroba oil as an active ingredient, not only has excellent skin whitening and anti-wrinkle effect, but also has little cytotoxicity and stability of formulation. great.

Andyroba oil, skin whitening, wrinkle improvement

Description

Cosmetic composition containing andylova oils {Cosmetic compostions comprising andiroba oils}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin whitening and / or anti-wrinkle comprising andylova oil as an active ingredient.

Skin is the largest tissue in the human body and plays an important role in protecting the interior of the skin from external stimuli as a primary barrier. These skins vary in color with age or with age, depending on the concentration and distribution of melanin inside the skin. Melanin pigment produced by melanocytes of human skin is a phenolic polymer having a complex form of black pigment and protein, and plays an important role in blocking skin damage caused by ultraviolet rays. It is reported that the action of tyrosinase in melanocytes is the most important for melanin biosynthesis, and tyrosinase is a type of amino acid tyrosine (DOPA) which is an intermediate of melanin polymer production. It is known to play a key role in skin blackening by converting it to dopaquinone.

On the other hand, the skin of a person is deteriorated due to external chemical and physical stimulation, the skin's normal function is degraded, the aging phenomenon of the skin is promoted, causing skin damage. One of such aging of the skin is skin wrinkles. In general, skin wrinkles are known to be produced by a complex action of various factors such as the moisture content of the skin, collagen content and the ability to act on the external environment. Among these factors, the most important influence on the formation of wrinkles is the expression and activity of collagenase, a collagen degrading enzyme that reduces collagen production and collagen content.

Various compositions have conventionally been used to inhibit whitening and wrinkle formation of the skin as described above. For example, various extracts extracted from L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, hydroquinone, arbutin and licorice, and white skin are used for skin whitening and wrinkles. It is used as an improvement agent. However, L-ascorbic acid is easily oxidized by heat, air, and moisture, causing irritation to the skin, and the use of the whitening cosmetic product including this is not stable and its use is limited, and the effect is remarkably over time. There is a downside to falling. Kojic acid has been found to be a carcinogen is limited use, hydroquinone and baekryepi, licorice extract, etc. are relatively cytotoxic, use is limited, arbutin has a low effect.

Therefore, the present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition which is intended to improve the problems of the conventional skin whitening agent, exhibits the inhibitory effect of the skin melanin pigment production, has little cytotoxicity, and is free of skin irritation of the formulation.

For the above purpose, the inventors of the present invention, Andiroba oil has excellent skin melanin pigment inhibitory effect, almost no cytotoxicity, no skin irritation of the formulation to be applied to cosmetics and skin whitening effect and wrinkle improvement effect of the same It was found that the excellent and the stability of the product is good to complete the present invention.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin whitening or anti-wrinkle comprising andylova oil as an active ingredient.

Androba oil (andiroba oil) of the present invention refers to a pale yellow oil extracted from the fruit or seeds of Carapa Guianensis, a tree in the Amazon rain forest. Andiroba oil used in the present invention may be a product that is extracted from the fruits or seeds of Carapa Guianensis or sold in the industry by methods well known in the art.

In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the andyroba oil of the present invention is excellent in whitening effect by inhibiting the activity of intracellular tyrosinase and inhibiting melanin production, inhibiting collagenase activity and promoting collagen synthesis Wrinkle improvement effect is excellent through the molecular mechanism of. Therefore, the andilova oil is useful as a cosmetic composition for skin whitening and wrinkle improvement. In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is safe on human skin because it does not show a distinctive pattern in the skin accumulation stimulation test.

Andiroba oil of the present invention (andiroba oil) is preferably included in 0.0001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the total cosmetic composition. The skin whitening and antiwrinkle effect is insignificant when the andylova oil is less than 0.0001% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and the effect of skin whitening and antiwrinkle is no longer increased compared to the content when the andylova oil is less than 0.0001% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Do not.

Ingredients included in the compositions of the present invention include ingredients conventionally used in the composition in addition to the andylova oil as active ingredients, and include conventional auxiliaries and carriers such as antioxidants, stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, pigments and flavorings. It includes.

The compositions of the present invention can be prepared in any formulation conventionally prepared in the art, for example solutions, suspensions, emulsions, pastes, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleansing, oils It may be formulated as powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation, spray, and the like, but is not limited thereto. More specifically, when the composition of the present invention is used as a cosmetic composition, it is prepared in the form of a flexible lotion, nutrition lotion, nutrition cream, massage cream, essence, eye cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack, spray or powder Can be.

When the formulation of the present invention is a paste, cream or gel, animal oils, vegetable oils, waxes, paraffins, starches, trachants, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycols, silicones, bentonites, silicas, talc or zinc oxide may be used as carrier components. Can be.

If the formulation of the invention is a powder or a spray, lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate or polyamide powder may be used, in particular in the case of a spray, additionally chlorofluorohydrocarbon, propane / Propellant such as butane or dimethyl ether.

When the formulation of the present invention is a solution or emulsion, a solvent, solubilizer or emulsifier is used as the carrier component, such as water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1 Fatty acid esters of, 3-butylglycol oil, glycerol aliphatic ester, polyethylene glycol or sorbitan.

When the dosage form of the present invention is a suspension, as a carrier component, aliphatic alcohol sulfate, aliphatic alcohol ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid monoester, isethionate, imidazolinium derivative, methyltaurate, sarcosinate, fatty acid amide ether sulfate, alkyl Amidobetaines, fatty alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid diethanolamides, vegetable oils, lanolin derivatives or ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters and the like can be used.

The cosmetic composition comprising the andylova oil of the present invention as an active ingredient has an excellent whitening effect and wrinkle improvement effect, almost no skin irritation to the human body, so the stability of the product is excellent, the cosmetic composition for skin whitening and / or wrinkles It can be usefully used as a cosmetic composition for improvement.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. These examples are only for illustrating the present invention in more detail, and it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples according to the gist of the present invention. .

Example 1 Measurement of Inhibitory Effect of Melanin Production by Andoriva Oil

B16 melanoma cells were used to measure the inhibitory effect of melanin production by andoroba oil, and this was compared with the inhibitory effect of melanin production by arbutin known to inhibit melanogenesis.

Specifically, murine melanoma (B-16 F10) cells (Korea Cell Line Bank) were used in DMEM medium containing 10% FBS (fetal bovine serum) in a 6-well plate at 1 × 10 ⁵ per well. After inoculation with dogs, the cells were cultured under 5% CO ₂ and 37 ° C until at least about 80% were attached to the bottom of the well. After incubation, the medium is removed and the sample (Andirolova oil) is replaced with medium diluted to the appropriate concentration, 5% CO ₂ And incubated at 37 ° C. for 3 days. The concentration range of andylova oil was determined to be 1 ppm, 10 ppm and 100 ppm without cytotoxicity. The cells from which the medium was removed were washed with PBS (phosphate buffer saline) and treated with trypsin to recover the cells. The recovered cells were measured by using a hematocytometer (Tiefe Depth Profondeur 0.100 mm, Paul Marienfeld GmbH & Co. KG, Germany), and then centrifuged at 5,000 to 10,000 rpm for 10 minutes. It was removed to obtain pellets. The cell pellet was dried at 60 ° C., and then 100 μl of 1 M sodium hydroxide solution containing 10% DMSO was added to obtain intracellular melanin in a 60 ° C. thermostat. Using this solution, the absorbance was measured at 490 nm using a microplate reader (Bio-Tek ELx8081U, USA) to determine the amount of melanin per cell. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

sample Treatment Concentration (ppm) Melanin production inhibition rate (%) Arbutin 100 20 Andylova oil One 3 Andylova oil 10 6 Andylova oil 100 35

As shown in Table 1, the andylova oil was higher in melanin production inhibition than arbutin, and it was also found that the higher the concentration of the androlova oil, the higher the melanin production inhibition.

Example  2 : Andilova  By oil Intracellular Tyrosinase  Activity Inhibition Effect Measurement

Rat B16 melanoma cells were used to measure the inhibitory effect of melanin production by Andorova oil and compared it with the inhibitory effect of intracellular tyrosinase activity by arbutin known to inhibit melanin production.

Specifically, murine melanoma (B-16 F1) cells were inoculated at 1 × 10 ⁵ per well in a 6-well plate with DMEM medium containing 10% FBS (fetal bovine serum) 5 % CO ₂ And Cells were incubated at 37 ° C. until at least about 80% adhered to the bottom of the well. After incubation, remove the medium and replace the sample (androva oil) with a medium diluted to the appropriate concentration and then 5% CO ₂ And incubated at 37 ° C. for 3 days. The concentration range of the andylova oil was determined to be 1 ppm, 10 ppm and 100 ppm without cytotoxicity. The cells from which the medium was removed were washed with PBS (phosphate buffer saline) and treated with trypsin to recover the cells. The recovered cells were measured by using a hematocytometer, and then centrifuged at 5,000 to 10,000 rpm for 10 minutes, and then the supernatant was removed to obtain pellets. The cell pellet was pulverized using lysis buffer, and then centrifuged at 12,000 rpm for 10 minutes to collect supernatant. Using this solution, absorbance at 492 nm was measured with a microplate reader to determine cell-specific allowance tyrosinase activity. The results are shown in Table 2 below.

sample Treatment Concentration (ppm) Inhibition rate of intracellular tyrosinase activity (%) Arbutin 10 15 Andylova oil One 4 Andylova oil 10 20 Andylova oil 100 58

As shown in Table 2, it was found that the andylova oil had higher intracellular tyrosinase inhibition rate than arbutin. It was also found that the degree of inhibition of tyrosinase activity of andylova oil was concentration-dependent.

Example  3: Evaluation of the whitening effect at the animal level

Similar to humans, the whitening effect of andylova oil was measured using brown malmoto (Tortoiseshell guinea pigs; Brown guinea pigs, Charles River Laboratories, Inc.), which is known to cause pigmentation by ultraviolet rays.

In order to cause pigmentation due to ultraviolet (UV) in the brown molemoto, a light shielding aluminum foil having a square window of 3 × 3 cm ² is adhered to the skin from which the hair of the brown molemoto coordination is removed, and then SE lamp ( Ultraviolet rays were irradiated with a wavelength of 290-320 nm (Toshiba) (total amount of irradiation energy = 1350 mJ / cm ² ). After UV irradiation, the aluminum foil was peeled off and a sample (Andirova oil and arbutin) was applied in the following manner. Pigmentation appeared 2-3 days after UV irradiation and reached a peak after about 2 weeks, and each sample was applied thereafter.

The application number of times was continued for 50 days once or twice a day. The sample was dissolved and diluted using a specific solvent (propylene solvent: ethanol: water = 5: 3: 2: mixed solvent), and applied with a cotton swab, and prepared a control site for necessarily applying the solvent to other sites. Along with the determination of effects, the cumulative stimulus was also observed.

The effect was determined by measuring the degree of black and white of the skin using a color difference meter (CR2002 chromameter, Minolta, Japan), the results are shown in Table 3 below. L ^* A ^* B ^* color system is used to display color, and L ^* value was used as an index in this invention. L ^* value was calibrated with a standard whiteboard, and L ^* value was measured 5 times or more at one site, and pigmentation was equalized. The difference (ΔL ^* ) of the skin color at the start of application and at the end of application was determined and the effect was determined using this value. The results are shown in Table 3 below.

△ L ^* = L ^* value after 00 days application - L ^* value of the coating start date

Comparing the ΔL ^* value with respect to the sample application site and the control site, the effect of the whitening material can be seen.

sample Treatment Concentration (%) Whitening effect (△ L) Andylova oil 0.2 0.42 Andylova oil 1.0 0.67 Arbutin 1.0 0.54 Control group - 0.35

As described in Table 3 above, andylova oil showed a whitening effect in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, andylova oil showed better whitening effect than arbutin, and cumulative irritation was not observed during test application of the test substance, and thus safety was also excellent.

Example  4: Wrinkle improvement effect measurement

The anti-wrinkle effect can usually be measured as collagen biosynthesis and collagenase degradation inhibitory effect and clinical trial in humans.

Human normal fibroblasts (Pacific) were inoculated into 6-well microplates containing DMEM medium (2 × 10 ⁵ cells / well) in a 2% CO ₂ incubator at 37 ° C. Time incubation. After 24 hours, the medium was removed from each well, samples were treated by concentration and then incubated again for 24 hours. After 24 hours, cell media were collected to prepare samples.

Collagen synthesis amount was measured by using a collagen measurement kit (Procollagen Type I C-peptide EIA kit (MK101), Takara, Kyoto, Japan) according to the manufacturer's protocol. The amount of Type I C-peptide (PICP) was measured and analyzed.

An antibody against collagenase was used as a method for measuring the activity of collagenase, an enzyme that degrades collagen. Collagenase activity was measured using a type I collagenase assay kit (Amersham Biosciences, RPN2629) and absorbance was measured with an ELISA reader (Bio-Tek ELx808 ™ Series Ultra Microplate Reader, UK). The measured standard values were expressed in the form of mean ± standard deviation and tested for significance by t-test using the SPSS / PC + program. The results are shown in Table 4 below.

Test Items Andylova oil
(1 ppm) Andylova oil
(5ppm) Andylova oil
(10ppm) Collagen Synthesis Growth Rate 23 43 76 Collagenase inhibition rate 12 28 43

As shown in Table 4, andylova oil increased concentration-dependently collagen synthesis and also inhibited collagenase activity concentration-dependently. Therefore, it could be seen that andylova oil has an anti-wrinkle effect.

Example  5: Andilova  Experiment to confirm safety of human skin on oil

5-1: Andilova  Containing oil External skin preparations  Produce

In order to confirm that the Andoriva oil, which has been found to be excellent in the whitening effect and the wrinkle improvement effect as described above, is safe for human skin, an external skin preparation containing Andorova oil and arbutin was prepared and a skin safety verification experiment was performed.

The external preparation for skin containing andilova oil and arbutin was prepared by the ingredient content of Table 5 below. In Table 5, the control group is a skin external preparation that does not include a tyrosinase inhibitor, and test group 1 and test group 2 are external skin preparations including andylova oil and arbutin, respectively.

For the preparation of external skin preparations, purified water, serine and butylene glycol were mixed and dissolved at 70 ° C. (aqueous part), and the other components except the three components and trimethanolamine were dissolved at 70 ° C. (oil phase part). The oil part was added to the water part and stirred with a homomixer (Tokushu Kika, Japan) to emulsify first, to which trimethanolamine was finally added. After removing the bubbles generated in the mixed solution, and cooled to room temperature to prepare a skin external preparation.

ingredient content (%) Control group Test group 1 Test group 2 Purified water 72 72 72 glycerin 8.0 8.0 8.0 Butylene glycol 4.0 4.0 4.0 Andylova oil 0 1.0 0 Arbutin 0 0 1.0 Caprylic Capri Triglyceride 8.0 8.0 8.0 Squalane 5.0 5.0 5.0 Cetearyl Glucoside 1.5 1.5 1.5 Sorbitan stearate 0.4 0.4 0.4 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.0 1.0 Trimethanolamine 0.1 0.1 0.1 Gross weight 100 100 100

5-2: Accumulated skin irritation test

Whether andyrobova oil irritates the skin by subjecting the upper forearm to a total of nine 24-hour cumulative blisters every other day for 30 healthy adults using each skin preparation prepared in Example 5-1. Whether or not was measured.

The patch method used the fin chamber (Finn chamber, Epitest Ltd, Finland). 15 µl of each of the external skin preparations was added dropwise to the chamber, followed by patching. The degree of response to the skin each time was scored using Equation 2 below, and the results are shown in Table 6 below.

Average responsiveness = [{(response x responsiveness) / (total number of subjects x highest score (4 points))} x 100] ÷ number of tests (9 times)

At this time, ± 1 point, + 2 points, + + 4 points in the reaction degree, and the average response was determined to be a safe composition when less than 3.

Test substance Number of subjects with response Average reactivity 1 week 2 weeks 3 weeks Primary Secondary 3rd 4th 5th 6th 7th 8th 9th ± + + + ± + + + ± + + + ± + + + ± + + + ± + + + ± + + + ± + + + ± + + + Control group 2 - - --- --- --- --- --- --- --- --- 0.18 Test group 1 3-- One - - --- --- --- --- --- --- --- 0.37 Test group 2 3-- One - - --- --- --- --- --- --- --- 0.37 Inspector 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 30

In Test Tables 1 and 2 in Table 6, the number of persons corresponding to ±, +, and ++ was 3, 0, and 1, respectively, and the rest did not appear. When calculated according to the formula described above, the average reactivity was 0.37, which was 3 or less, which was determined to be a safe composition. Therefore, the external skin preparation containing andylova oil (Test Group 1) did not show a distinct cumulative stimulation pattern like the external skin preparation including control or arbutin and was determined to be safe for human skin.

Claims (3)

A cosmetic composition for skin whitening comprising andyroba oil as an active ingredient. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the andyroba oil is 0.0001 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The group of claim 1 wherein the composition consists of a solution, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, cream, lotion, powder, soap, surfactant-containing cleansing, oil, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation and spray Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it has a formulation selected from.