JPS6329712Y2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed explanation of the idea]

The present invention relates to a ruler used in dressmaking to create a model for the body of women's clothing. When making women's clothing, first the dimensions of the required parts of the wearer's upper body are measured and a prototype is drawn based on this, but it is necessary to perform fairly complex calculations for each dimension of each part of the body. It has been proposed to perform such calculations in advance and create several types of scales and engrave them on a ruler, but this requires changing the position of the ruler many times to make one prototype, making it difficult to use. The method is complicated and troublesome. In view of this point, the present invention provides a ruler that is extremely simple to use and that allows for the quick and easy production of body prototypes. The scale engraved on the ruler of the present invention is selected as follows. First, the wearer's height A, chest measurement B, shoulder width C, chest width D, and back width E are actually measured. and chest measurement B
Add 10cm for "room" to cm. As shown in Figure 3, prototype Z corresponds to the left and right halves (half body) of the front and back halves of the body, so B+10
A quarter of cm, ie (B+10)/4, is the length of the line representing the chest circumference on the prototype, ie, the length of the chest circumference line _L1 . How far is the part of the upper body where the chest circumference B was measured from the neckline - in other words, the distance from the reference line Y on the prototype to the above chest circumference line _L1 ?
Since it is impossible to determine MF- theoretically, as a result of making prototypes and experimenting with people of various body shapes and body sizes, we found that the distance MF=
It has been found that it is appropriate to set it as (B+10/4-1) cm. In other words, if the wearer's chest circumference is Bcm (for example, 85cm), the length of the chest circumference line _L1 in the original half body of the wearer is B + 10/4 cm (23.75 cm in the above example), and the chest circumference from the reference line Y is Distance to line L ₁
It is appropriate to set the MF to (B+10/4-1) cm (22.75 cm in the above example). Therefore, a certain range of chest circumference B, for example 50 cm ~
Length of chest circumference line _L1 corresponding to each chest circumference measurement in 5cm increments within a range of 120cm and chest circumference line from reference line Y
Calculate the distance MF to L ₁ , and form a scale (MF scale) using this MF value. In other words, on the MF scale, the scale at a position 4 cm away from the reference line Y is 10, 5.25 cm.
The scale at a distance is 15, the scale at a distance of 6.5 cm is 20, and the scale at a distance of 31.5 cm is 120. Based on this MF scale, create an F scale with a scale of 4/5 of the scale of the MF scale, and an M scale with a scale of 1/5 of the scale of the MF scale. Furthermore, the sum of the M scale value 6.3 corresponding to B = 120 cm and the F scale value 13.2 corresponding to B = 60 cm divided by 12, 1.625 (6.3 + 13.2 = 19.5, 19.5 ÷ 12 = 1.625), is 1. S scale as a scale and 1/3 of the F scale value corresponding to B = 120cm, which is 8.4 (31.5 x 4/5 x 1/3 = 8.4)
0.75 (8.4 + 0.6
= 9, 9 ÷ 12 = 0.75) as one scale. The following table shows the actual size (cm) corresponding to each scale value (value corresponding to the measured chest circumference B) of these shaku scales. This table also shows the value of 1/4 of the chest measurement B.

[Table] As will be seen later, the F scale is used to determine the position of the chest width line L ₂ from the reference line Y (distance d ₁ in Figure 3), and the N scale is used to determine the neckline N, It is used to determine the armpit amount W and the distance d ₂ from the chest width line L ₂ to the back width line L ₃ , and the S shaku is used to determine the height d ₃ of the sleeve hem. The ruler of the present invention has at least the above-mentioned MF scale, F scale, and N scale engraved on each side of a substantially rectangular board. FIG. 1 shows one side (front side) of a ruler of one embodiment, and FIG. 2 shows the other side (back side). Reference numeral 1 is an opaque, substantially rectangular plate made of hard synthetic resin, and a curved edge 1e is formed by cutting out a portion corresponding to the back neckline from the short side 1a. Curved edges are rectangular corners 1
It starts at a point 1g that is a length l (=9.25 cm) away from f along the short side 1a, ends at a point 1h that is a length l' (=2 cm) along the long side 1c from the corner 1f, and forms a curved edge 1.
A scale of N scale _n1 is carved along the straight line portion on the end point 1h side of e. As can be seen from the figure, the numerical value on the scale of N scale _n1 increases toward the long side 1c. According to the table above, the actual size of scale 110 for N scale n ₁ is 8.25 cm, but with a 1 cm allowance, the length l from starting point 1g to corner 1f (scale 110 position) is 9.25 cm as described above. It is as follows. n ₂ is also N scale provided on long side 1c near corner 1f, and like n ₁ , the length l from corner 1f to scale 110
is 9.25cm. Therefore, the position 1 cm from the corner 1f is the base point (0 scale) of the N scale _n2 . mf is the MF scale set on the long side 1c of the ruler, and the short side 1
It is formed with the base point (0 scale) from a to corner 1f. q ₁ is a normal centimeter scale with the long side 1c and the short side 1b as the reference (0 cm), and is the same as the MF scale above.
It is desirable to color code them so that they can be easily identified from the MF scale. n ₃ is the angle 1 on the short side 1b opposite to the short side 1a.
N scale set symmetrically with N scale n ₁ near j, f is F scale set on long side 1d corresponding to long side 1c with corner 1k as the base point, m is F scale scale on the same long side 1d.
It is an M scale with 120 as the base point. E ₁ and E ₂ are diagonal lines set at angles of 7° and 20.5°, respectively, with respect to the short side 1a with the point 1g as the base, and similarly, E' ₁ and E' ₂ are the diagonal lines with the corner 1i as the base and the short side 1b. These are diagonal lines formed at angles of 7° and 20.5°, respectively. The usage of these diagonal lines will be described later. H is a hole made in the center of the plate 1, defined by suitable curved edges h ₁ and h ₂ for drawing armholes or neckholes. Figure 2 shows the back side of periodic 1, where s is the S scale provided on the long side 1c with the corner 1h as the base point (0 scale).
q ₂ is a normal centimeter scale set on the long side 1c other than the S scale, with 1h as the base point, and d is the long side 1
The normal centimeter scale provided at d, d is 1/1/1 of the normal centimeter scale provided at long side 1d
4 scaled scale, _n3 is the N scale set on the short side 1b with the corner 1i as the starting point (0 scale), and _n4 is the N scale set along the neckline edge 1e with the starting point (0 scale) at point 1h. /2 shaku, E ₃ to _{E 13} are lines or marks used to draw the front and back armhole lines and front neckline. The procedure for manufacturing a prototype using the ruler configured as described above will be explained with reference to FIGS. 4A to 4K. First, measure the wearer's chest circumference, back height, shoulder width, chest width, and back width. Chest measurement 85cm, height 37cm, shoulder width 38cm, chest width 32cm
cm, and the back width is 33 cm. Draw reference lines X and Y perpendicular to the surface of paper 2 at point _P1 . Note that the lines drawn in FIGS. 4A to 4K are shown as dotted lines so as not to be confused with solid lines representing rulers. Also, each scale of the ruler is schematically shown as a long rectangle, with only the scale used at that time being shown. Line X is a horizontal line,
Line Y is called a vertical line. Then, align the side 1a of the ruler 1 with the vertical reference line Y, and set the scale of N scale n ₁ .
85 to _the horizontal _reference line
The position of the upper end point is marked on paper 2 as point _P2 (Figure 4A). Next, move the ruler upward to match the long _side 1c with the horizontal reference line
Mark as P ₃ , P ₄ , P ₅ (Figure 4B). Then, using the length of the long side 1d of the ruler (30cm),
Shift the ruler from the solid line in Figure 4B to the left (in the direction of the arrow) as shown by the two-dot chain line to measure the standard centimeter scale q ₁
Mark a point P ₆ of 7 cm by . This makes the length of P ₁₃ and P ₆ 37 cm the height. Next, draw the back neckline on paper 2, excluding ruler 1.
Draw a diagonal line L ₅ passing through base point P _{7 of} L ₄ and point P ₂ , _and then draw perpendicular lines _{L 7 ,} L ₁ ,
Draw a perpendicular line L ₆ and a perpendicular line L ₂ passing through the point P ₅ from the reference line X (Fig. 4C). Diagonal line L ₅ is the shoulder line,
Perpendicular lines L ₁ , L ₂ , L ₆ , and L ₇ are the chest circumference line, the chest width line, and
The waist line and the basic line of the front neckline are shown. Next, use the centimeter scale q ₁ of a ruler to measure the shoulder width C (for example, 38 cm) from the end point P ₁₃ of the back neckline L ₄ .
Mark the position half the length (19 cm) of the shoulder line L ₅ as the intersection point P ₈ (Figure 4D). Then, turn ruler 1 over and use 1/4 shaku d to mark point P ₉ on scale 95, which corresponds to the chest circumference (85 cm in the above example), which is calculated by adding 10 cm of clearance from point P ₄ on chest circumference line L ₁ ( Figure 4E). Next, align the corner 1i of the ruler with the point P ₉ and draw the line L ₁
Draw a side line _L8 parallel to the reference line _X perpendicularly to the point _P10 where _it intersects with _the vertical line _P11
and P ₈ are connected with the sleeve base line L ₉ (Figure 4F). Next, align the long side 1d of the ruler with the chest width line _L2, and set a point _P12 at the scale 85 of N-shaku _n3 (the fourth
(Fig. G), remove the ruler and draw a spine width line L ₃ passing through point P ₁₂ and perpendicular to the reference line X to line L ₉ . Then, draw a line _L10 perpendicular to the line _L5 from point _P7 to the front neckline base line _L7 . Then, use the H edges h ₁ and h ₂ of the ruler to draw the front neckline L ₁₁ , front armhole line L ₁₂ , and back armhole line L ₁₃ to obtain the prototype of the front and back half of the body. These lines L ₁₁ ~
L ₁₃ is drawn as shown in Figures 4I to 4K, but
For convenience of illustration, it is also shown in FIG. 4H. To draw the front armhole line L ₁₂ , use the back side of ruler 1 (second
As shown in Figure 4I, lines E ₃ and E ₃ are aligned with chest width line L ₁ , lines E ₄ and E ₄ are aligned with chest width line L ₂ , and line E ₉ is aligned with the side line. The front armhole line _L12 is obtained by drawing a curved line along the edge _h2 of the hole H to coincide with the extension of L8, removing the ruler, and extending _the drawn curved line to point _P8 . Then move the ruler slightly upwards (Figure 4J),
Align lines E ₈ and L ₈ , and E ₅ and L ₉ , and align the edges of hole H.
Draw a curve along h ₁ , remove the ruler, and extend this curve to point P ₈ to obtain rear armhole line L ₁₃ . Next, turn the ruler over (Fig. 1) and align the lines E ₁₀ and E ₁₀ with the horizontal line X as shown in _Fig . _4K . By drawing a curve tangent to ₁₀ , the front neckline L ₁₁ is obtained. As described above, by using the ruler of the present invention, a half-body prototype can be drawn with simple operations without complicated and troublesome calculations.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 is a plan view showing one side of the proposed ruler;
The figure is a plan view showing the same side, Figure 3 is a diagram showing the prototype of the half body, and Figures 4A to 4K are diagrams showing how to draw the prototype of the half body using the ruler of this proposal. be. 1...Ruler, 2...Paper, d...1/4 scale, f...
...F scale, m...M scale, mf...MF scale, n ₁ , n ₂ , n ₃
...N scale, q ₁ , q ₂ ... centimeter scale, H...
Hole, h ₁ , h ₂ ... Edge of hole H, E ₁ , E ₂ , E' ₁ , E' ₂ ...
Angle line, E ₃ ~ E ₁₃ ... Guide line.

Claims (1)

[Claims for Utility Model Registration] A part including one corner from the middle of the short side of a rectangular flat plate is cut out to form a curved edge representing the back neckline, and the chest circumference is B+10/4-1. The MF scale has a scale of A dressmaking ruler comprising at least three types of N scales provided on predetermined sides of the front and back surfaces of the flat plate.