JPS6317129B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

In the present invention, the core yarn is a multifilament (B) in which the single fibers after drawing and false twisting are 2.5 to 8 deniers (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as "dr"), and the single fibers after drawing and false twisting are
It is related to the production of non-adhesive two-layer false-twisted yarn in which the outer surface is covered with ultra-fine multifilaments (A) with a diameter of 0.2 to 1.5 dr.In addition, the oil agent of the filaments (A) and the false-twisting conditions make it anti-pilling. The present invention relates to a method for producing processed yarn characterized by imparting properties. As a conventional technology, the difference in intrinsic viscosity [η] of polymers,
We are aware of the manufacturing method of covering yarn that has a two-layer core-sheath structure through twisting, false twisting, air entanglement, etc., by utilizing differences in spinning speed, fiber denier, supply speed (tension difference), and heat shrinkage. It is being On the other hand, it is well known that synthetic fibers such as polyester and polyamide have greater strength and elongation than wool and cotton, and are more likely to pill when worn.
Anti-pilling methods can be roughly divided into the following two types. (i) Lower strength and elongation of fibers...Low [η] fibers, easily hydrolyzable fibers, fibers with defective structures such as cracks,
Post-treatments such as heat, solvents, mechanical damage, etc. (ii) Pill suppression... Post-treatments such as irregular cross-section fibers, resin, and burning Post-treatment methods have problems such as changes in the physical properties of the fabric and wash resistance. Furthermore, in the case of low strength and elongation of fibers related to the present invention, low [η] fibers are difficult to spin and cause fluffing during false twisting, resulting in decreased passability in subsequent steps. Modifying a polymer by adding a hydrolysis accelerator tends to cause drawbacks such as problems with the polymer and spinning, and increased costs. Tokukosho is a method for creating crack defect structures.
As in No. 39-22035 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 47-39319, a crystallization accelerator is attached to polyester fiber and the spun yarn is left for a long period of time or stretched slightly at room temperature to create cracks in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis. There is a method of drawing it to make a knotted yarn, or a method of reducing the strength and elongation, but these methods have the drawback of large restrictions on manufacturing conditions and poor operability. From the above, although there are two-layer textured yarns with denier mixes, none have satisfactory anti-pilling properties.In particular, as in the present invention, ultra-fine yarn covers a thick dr core yarn, and the processed yarn is used to create fabrics. In this case, there is no method for producing processed yarn that has a soft touch and firm waist, and does not cause pilling problems even if it is brushed for the purpose of producing high-quality wool-like outer clothing. In other words, the feature of the present invention is that by selecting the conditions for stretch false twisting and the spinning oil agent without using any special polymer or processing method, it is possible to create cracks or scratches in the ultrafine yarn during false twisting and reduce the strength and elongation. The aim is to obtain wool-like ultra-fine covering yarn with excellent anti-pilling properties. The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a pill-resistant ultrafine composite textured yarn as set forth in claims 1 to 4. The polyester multifilament referred to in the present invention refers to fibers melt-spun by a conventional method, and contains fibers copolymerized with modifying components, matting agents, heat stabilizers, pigments, antistatic property improvers, flame retardant improvers, etc. This also includes added items. In addition, from the viewpoint of spinning, drawing, false twisting, anti-pilling properties, etc., the intrinsic viscosity [η] of the ultra-fine filament (A) is 0.45 to 0.7 dl/g, and the intrinsic viscosity [η] of the thick dr filament (B) is 0.5 dl. /g or more and 80% or more of the repeating units are polyethylene terephthalate. Note that [η] means the intrinsic viscosity measured using an Utsperohde viscometer in a constant temperature bath at 30° C. using a mixed solvent of equal amounts of phenol and tetrachloroethane. The polyester fiber is composed of one or more kinds of polymers, and the fiber cross section may be circular or irregularly shaped, and composite fibers may be used, but in terms of operability and cost, it is circular and made of one kind of polyester. A two-layer textured yarn is preferred. The ultrafine multifilament (A) with a single fiber of 0.2 to 1.5 dr or less is a fiber obtained by a conventional spinning technique, and is preferably 0.5 to 1.2 dr from the viewpoint of operability and flexibility. If the single fiber is less than 0.2 dr, it is difficult to spin and draw, and if it exceeds 1.5 dr, wool-like flexibility will be lacking. In order to impart appropriate repulsion and bulkiness to the fabric and to improve false-twisting properties, the filament (B), which is the core yarn, should have a single fiber of 2.5 to 8 dr, preferably 3 to 6 dr, after false twisting. , and the mixing ratio of filament (B) is
It should be 30-80% by weight, preferably 50-70% by weight. If the filament (B) content is less than 2.5 dr or less than 30% by weight, the repellency of the fabric will decrease, and if it exceeds 8 dr or 80% by weight, the fabric will feel harsh and hard, and both have a wool-like texture and have a poor commercial value. decrease. In addition, one of the factors that influences the pill resistance of the composite processed yarn is the yarn length difference between filament (A) and filament (B). ) is 5-25%, preferably 10-20
%. In order to obtain this yarn length difference by drawing and false twisting, the birefringence △n _A of filament (A) and filament (B) is
It is preferable that Δn _B satisfy the expression [1] or the expression [2]. △n _A ≦50×10 ^-3 , △n _B =10×10 ^-3 ~70×10 ^-3 7×10 ^-3 ≦△n _B −△n _A ≦30×10 ^-3 ……[1] △ n _A = 20×10 ^-3 〜70×10 ^-3 , △n _B ≧110×10 ^-3 ... [2] Also, the filament (A) is easily deformed during false twisting and easily cracks and scratches, making it difficult to pill. At the point where the effect is large, filament (A) is undrawn yarn and filament (B)
Condition [1], in which filaments (A) and (B) are undrawn yarns, is more desirable than condition [2], in which filaments (A) and (B) are undrawn yarns.
However, △n _A or △n _B means the average birefringence of the filament (A) or (B) when it is composed of one type, and when it is composed of two or more types, △n _A means the filament (A) ), the average birefringence of the lowest group,
Δn _B means the average birefringence of the highest group in the filament (B). Also, the yarn length difference (△L) is
Filament with yarn length of 20cm under initial load of 0.2g/dr.
After separating filament (B) and filament (A), it is calculated from the yarn length L _A (cm) of filament (A) under a load of 0.2 g/dr using the following formula. △L = (L _A -20) / 20 x 100 (%) If △L is less than 5%, there will be less fluffing and the anti-pilling property will increase, but the covering property of the filament (A) will decrease, and the core Threads appear on the surface of the fabric and impair its soft touch. When ΔL exceeds 25%, the anti-pilling effect decreases and the unwinding properties during additional twisting, knitting and weaving become poor. In the present invention, the following requirements must be satisfied in order for the filament (A) to exhibit a decrease in strength and elongation during false twisting and become a pill-resistant fiber. In other words, the first requirement is that when spinning the filament (A) or before stretching and false twisting after spinning, a load of 0.2 g/dr is applied so that the creep rate of the undrawn yarn after being left for 24 hours is 20% or more. At least 0.2% by weight of an oil based on the filament (A).
It is to make it adhere. Preferably, stretching and false twisting should be carried out within 1 to 7 days after the oil agent has been applied, in order to prevent cracks from occurring and to maintain quality stability. Oils with a high creep rate tend to cause oriented crystallization on the fiber surface, which tends to cause cracks. The inventors investigated various oils and found that the creep rate of filament (A) was 20%.
It was found that in the case of an oil agent with a concentration of less than 100%, a decrease in strength and elongation during false-twisting is unlikely to occur, and the anti-pilling effect is small. Examples of oils with a high creep rate include polyethylene glycol-based oils with a molecular weight of 2000 or less;
or POE(7) lauryl ether, POE(50) oleyl ether, POE(10) nonylphenol ether, POE(15) lauryl ester, POE(10) laurylamine, POE(20) triethanolamine, Pluronic type ethylene Although it refers to a nonionic surfactant to which oxide has been added, the present invention is not limited thereto, and it may be a single component or a blended oil containing two or more components. Preferably molecular weight
It is an oil agent containing 50% by weight or more of PEG of 1000 or less and higher aliphatic alcohol with 3 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide added. The lubricant for filament (B) is preferably a false-twisting lubricant that scatters little during false-twisting and does not cause fuzz, and even if some fuzz (single thread breakage) occurs in filament (A),
It may be any material as long as it does not cause any problem in passing through false twisting. The second requirement for obtaining the anti-pilling fiber of the present invention is the following false twisting conditions. In other words, in the case of stretch false twisting (this includes stretching before false twisting and stretching simultaneously with false twisting, the latter is preferred in the present invention), the stretching ratio is the maximum stretching ratio of the unstretched filament (A). (HDmax) 0.55 times or less, preferably 0.4 times or less, and the natural draw ratio (NDR) of the filament (A)
The following are desirable. This is because cracks are most likely to occur in the semi-stretched state, and the stretching ratio is
Since it is almost determined by HDmax and false twisting tension, by appropriately selecting the birefringence of filaments (A) and (B), it is possible to achieve a stretching ratio of HDmax of filament (A) x 0.55 times or less. Furthermore, filament (B)
If it is a drawn yarn, the drawing ratio is 1.0 due to the false twisting tension.
In the present invention, there is no problem if ΔL is 5 to 25%, although there may be cases where it is below (overfeed). Furthermore, in the present invention, the temperature of the false-twisting heater must be set from the sticking temperature of the filament (A), t°C, to (t-40)°C. If it is less than (t-40)°C, the evaporation of the oil will be small and a decrease in strength and elongation will occur. It's hard. In addition, when the temperature is above the sticking temperature, there is less fluffing and the anti-pilling effect increases, but the wool-like flexibility, which is one of the features of the present invention, is lost, so although pseudo-sticking is good, it is stuck as a processed yarn without substantial sticking or fusion. Temperature below is required.
Pseudo-adhesion refers to a condition in which the single yarns appear to be stuck together, but the single yarns easily come apart without cutting the single yarns by hand. When fabrics such as knitted fabrics are constructed using the ultra-fine composite processed yarn obtained according to the present invention, it has wool-like flexibility and repellency, and those with a slight nap in particular have high-quality wool that also has heat retention properties and is pill-like. It has become a high value-added product with a low occurrence rate that has never been seen before. The present invention will be specifically explained below using Examples. Example 1 PEG (400) was used in a 10% aqueous solution of PEG (400) during spinning.
When 1.5% by weight of is attached, the intrinsic viscosity [η] = 0.60dl/
An undrawn polyester filament (A) of 180 ^d -72 ^f was obtained with g and Δn _A =8×10 ⁻³ . On the other hand, a false twisting compounded oil with low creep property was applied, and the intrinsic viscosity [η] = 0.60 dl/g, △n _B = 19×
An undrawn polyester filament (B) of 360 ^d - 32 ^f was obtained at 10 ^-3 . The creep rate of filament (A) is 56%, HDmax is 5.01 times, and filament
HDmax of (B) was 3.94 times. Next, both unstretched filaments were pulled together and stretched at a stretching ratio of 2.5 times, a heater temperature of 180°C, and a false twist number of 2500T/M.
Stretching and false twisting was performed. Next, two of the processed yarns were combined and twisted at 300T/M, and then a 2/2 twill fabric was created using the warp and weft yarns and lightly raised. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the false twisted yarn. The results of the anti-pilling property and texture evaluation of the fabric were also shown. In addition, as Comparative Example 1, when a compounded oil with a creep rate of 8% is attached to the undrawn filament (A), as Comparative Example 2, the filament (A) has △n _A = 16 × 10 ^-3 ,
The results for the case where HDmax=4.13 times were used are also listed in Table 1. Note that the birefringence △n _A and △n _B are interference fringes (n) due to the degree of orientation of polymer molecular chains, retardation (r) obtained by determining the orientation that does not result in interference fringes using a Pelleck compensator, and fiber diameter (d ), and the wavelength of the sodium D line of the light source (λ = 589 mμ), △n =
It is calculated as (n·λ+r)/d, but in the present invention, the number of measurements was 20 and the average value was used.

【table】

[Table] The false twisted yarn obtained in Example 1 is a filament (A).
In (B), the yarn length difference was 13.5%, and the 1.13 dr ultrafine yarn almost completely covered the 4.5 dr core yarn without any sticking.
In addition, the fabric obtained without any problems such as unwinding during additional twisting and weaving processes had a soft slimy feel, bulkiness, and repulsion. Furthermore, the side yarns (covering yarns) of the false twisted yarn are made of PEG, which has a high creep property.
(400) was attached and was stretched and false-twisted at about 0.5 times the HDmax, so the strength and elongation was low at 2.8g/dr-35%, and the pilling test on the fabric was 4 to 5 grade in 10 hours using the ICI method, which was no problem. The result is a high-quality wool-like fabric with unprecedented pill resistance. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, since an oil having a low creep property was attached, the strength and elongation of the filament (A) after false twisting was little reduced and the pilling was 3rd grade, which was worse than in Example 1. In Comparative Example 2, Δn _B −Δn _A =2×10 ⁻³ was small, so ΔL was as low as 4.1%, and the ultra-fine filament (A) did not completely cover the core yarn, resulting in a rough and hard fabric. Generally, there is a tendency for pill resistance when the difference in yarn length is small, but in this example, the drawing ratio was
Since it is about 0.6 times the HDmax of , there was little decrease in strength and elongation, and pilling was grade 2, which was a failure. Example 2 0.9% by weight of POE(7) lauryl ether during spinning
Adhering intrinsic viscosity [η] = 0.53 dl/g, △n _A = 54
×10 ^-3 , by drawing the undrawn filament (A) of 128 ^d / 96 ^f at HDmax 2.6 times and the undrawn yarn, △n _B = 154 ×
10 ^-3 and a stretched filament (B) of 100 ^d /20 ^f with a cutting elongation of 54% and were simultaneously false-twisted at a stretching ratio of 1.01 times, a heater temperature of 160° C., and a false twist number of 2000 T/M.
The yarn length difference of the obtained ultra-fine covered yarn is 20.5%.
There was no adhesion, and the strength and elongation of the filament (A) was as low as 2.4 g/d-25%. The creep rate of filament (A) is 125%, and if an oil with a creep rate of 13% is attached, the filament
The strength and elongation of (A) was 3.1 g/d-34%. A jia guard knit was made using the false twisted yarn obtained in Example 2, and it had the soft surface touch of the ultra-fine yarn with a single yarn of 1.3 ^dr , the bulkiness and repulsion of the core yarn with a single yarn of 5.0 dr, and the pilling was also done using the ICI method. In 10 hours, it became a grade 4 product and a high value-added product. Example 3 Intrinsic viscosity [η] = 0.58 dl/g, △n _A = 11×10 ^-3 ,
0.5% by weight of 100 ^d / 72 ^f compounded oil at HDmax 4.8 times
POE after spinning on attached undrawn filament (A)
(15) With 2.3% by weight of oleyl ester attached, intrinsic viscosity [η] = 0.65 dl/g, △n _B = 31×
The unstretched filaments (B) of 185 ^d / 32 ^f at 10 ^-3 and 3.3 times HDmax were drawn together and subjected to stretching and false twisting at 200°C and 2.0 times. The creep rate of filament (A) before POE (15) oleyl ester is attached is 7%, and after attachment
It was 29%. The yarn length difference of the obtained false twisted yarn was 18.5%, and the strength and elongation of the ultrafine filament (A) was as low as 2.6 g/d-39%. The false twisted yarn was further twisted at 200T/M and used for the warp and weft yarns to make a 1/1 flat fabric and was needle cloth-raised. It had a cashmere-like soft touch and repellency, and no pilling was achieved using the ICI method for 10 hours. It has become a high quality fabric that has never existed before, with a grade 3-4 rating.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. One or more unstretched polyester multifilaments (A) having a single fiber denier of 0.2 to 1.5 after stretching and false twisting at a mixing ratio of 30 to 80% by weight. One or more polyester undrawn and/or drawn multifilaments (B) with a single fiber denier of 2.5 to 8 are aligned and false twisted, and the filament has a difference in yarn length of 5 to 25%. In a method for producing a composite textured yarn in which (A) covers filament (B), the filament (A) is
The creep rate of the unstretched multifilament (A) after being left for 24 hours with a load of 0.2 g/denier was
Apply at least 0.2% by weight of an oil agent to the filament (A) such that the amount is 20% or more, and then apply an oil agent of 0.55% by weight to the maximum drawing ratio (HDmax) of the filament (A).
The temperature of the filament is less than twice that of the false twisting heater.
A method for producing anti-pilling ultrafine composite textured yarn, which comprises stretching and false twisting between the sticking temperature of (A) t°C and (t-40)°C. 2 The filament (A) has an intrinsic viscosity [η] after spinning.
It is an undrawn yarn with a birefringence Δn _A of 50×10 ^-3 or less at 0.45 to 0.7 dl/g, and the filament (B) has a birefringence Δn _B at an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.5 dl/g or higher. is 10×10 ^-3
~70×10 ^-3 undrawn yarn, and 7×10 ^-3 ≦△
The method for producing anti-pilling ultrafine composite textured yarn according to claim 1, wherein the relationship n _B −Δn _A ≦30×10 ⁻³ holds true. 3 The filament (A) has an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.45~
At 0.7dl/g, birefringence △n _A is 20×10 ^-3 to 70×10 ^-3
The filament (B) has an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.5 dl/g or more and a birefringence △n _B of 110×
10. The method for producing a pill-resistant ultrafine composite textured yarn according to claim 1, wherein the yarn is drawn with a drawing strength of 10 ^-3 or more. 4. Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the oil agent of the filament (A) contains 50% by weight or more of a nonionic surfactant added with polyethylene glycol or/and ethylene oxide.
A method for producing the anti-pilling ultrafine composite textured yarn according to any one of the above.