JPS6119730B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to raw yarn for silky textiles, more specifically,
A silky effect is created by relaxing treatment after fabrication. Regarding polyester blend yarn. Conventionally, various attempts have been made to make synthetic fibers, particularly polyester filament yarns, to have a texture similar to that of silk. For example, from the yarn perspective, there are methods to give bulk by making the cross section irregular, methods to reduce bending hardness by making the single fibers that make up the yarn finer in denier or lower Young's modulus, or methods to reduce boiling water shrinkage rate. A method has been proposed in which a mixed yarn made of filament yarns is made into a woven fabric and then treated with boiling water to give the woven fabric swell. In particular, textiles made of mixed yarns with different shrinkage properties have been attracting a lot of attention recently, and one of the reasons for this is that they have the potential to satisfy requirements such as unique bulges due to differential shrinkage, surface touch, and favorable drapability. One example is that The present inventors have also focused on this blended yarn, and have developed a material that satisfies most of the texture, feel, functionality, etc. of real silk. We considered materials that would provide silky texture, loose taste), a calm and elegant luster, sufficient drapability, and repellency, but it was extremely difficult to satisfy all of the above characteristics at the same time when using mixed fiber yarns. I learned. This is because, in the case of mixed fiber yarns, the swell caused by the difference in shrinkage between filaments is utilized, but even if this swell phenomenon occurs in the yarn, it is restricted on the fabric, that is, by the woven structure. It was found that shrinkage itself is difficult to occur in mixed fiber yarns in this state, and it is even more difficult to obtain the characteristics of silk. However, the mixed fiber yarn itself can be obtained by simple means such as filament yarns with different boiling water shrinkage rates for interlace processing that can be processed at high speed, and its superiority in terms of material manufacturing cannot be denied. There are some things that are difficult. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a material that can sufficiently exhibit the characteristics unique to the above-mentioned mixed fiber yarn even on a woven fabric. Furthermore, another object of the present invention is to provide a mixed fiber yarn material that can provide overall feel, feel, functionality, and properties similar to real silk. As a result of various studies to achieve the above object, the inventors of the present invention found that even if treated with boiling water, the difference in boiling water shrinkage and therefore expansion will occur even if the mixed fiber yarn itself exceeds a certain constraining force. However, when the shrinkage stress under load of each filament satisfies a certain range in relation to this difference in boiling water shrinkage, the latent properties of the mixed fiber yarn are reflected in the fabric in some way. However, the present invention was achieved. Thus, according to the present invention, there is provided a polyester blend yarn having a total denier of at least 30 de, the blend yarn containing at least 50% by weight of filament yarn having the following components:
A polyester blend yarn characterized in that components (A) and (B) are mixed in a weight ratio of 20 to 80:80:20. (A) component; single fiber denier is less than 1 de. ε ₀ . ₂ is −
Polyester multifilament yarn (B) with 0.025≦ε ₀ . ₂ < 0 Component; Single fiber denier is 1 to 3 de and ε ₀ . ₂ is ε
_0.2 < _-0.025 polyester multifilament yarn [where ε _0.2 means _the structural integrity parameter of the filament and is defined by the following formula. ε ₀ . ₂ = l ₁ − l ₀ / l ₁ l ₀ is 0.2 at one end of the filament thread with a sample length of 10 cm.
The length when a load of g/de is suspended, l ₁ is the length of the filament yarn when the filament yarn under the load is immersed in boiling water and treated for 2 minutes, then taken out from the boiling water and cooled to 25°C. (the load remains the same). ] will be provided. Furthermore, to discuss this, the structural integrity parameter ε ₀ is the shrinkage stress characteristic of two or more types of filaments that make up a mixed yarn under load.
₂ , those with ε ₀ . ₂ <-0.025 are particularly preferable as shrinkage components, and the single fiber denier is 1 to 1.
By setting it to 3de, it is possible to give stiffness and resilience to the fabric.On the other hand, when ε _0.2 is larger than the shrinkage component and the single fiber denier is less than 1de, the fabric has a rich surface touch and bulge _. It is designed to give products. In other words, filament yarns with ε _0.2 < -0.025 still cause sufficient shrinkage within the fabric structure, while filament yarns with 0 > ε ≧ -0.025 have relatively low shrinkage stress, so they constitute a float-like component. It is. When using component (A) with ε ₀ . ₂ ≧0, the shrinkage stress is extremely small and the fabric stretches under load, so although the fabric obtained is full of bulge, the surface touch becomes spongy. Undesirable. In the present invention, polyester means polyester having ethylene terephthalate units as the main repeating unit, and specifically, polyethylene terephthalate is the main target, but a third component may be copolymerized or It may be a blend. The degree of polymerization of such polyester should be appropriately selected depending on its use, spinning, and thickness, but in the case of polyethylene terephthalate, the intrinsic viscosity η measured in an o-chlorophenol solution at 35°C is about 0.40 to 0.70. used to advantage. In the present invention, after boiling water treatment, component (A) constituting the floating yarn has _a single fiber de of less than 1 de and ε _0.2 of 0>ε _0.2 ≧−0.025 _.
A special spinning method using filament yarn that satisfies
For example, the specification of Japanese Patent Application No. 52-94095 (Japanese Patent Publication No. 58-37408; Patent No. 1241147) related to the applicant's earlier application.
It can be obtained by the method described in . Briefly, the above-mentioned polyester system is spun at a spinning draft of 200 to 700, preferably 300 to 500, and a spinning speed of 300 to 500.
Melt-spun at 3000 to 5000 m/min, preferably 3300 to 4500 m/min to obtain a filament yarn with a single fiber denier of less than 1.0 de, which is preferably spun at 100°C or above and below the melting point while giving a constant length or 20% or less elongation. is 140℃
It is sufficient to perform a heat treatment at a temperature of ~240°C for about 0.01 to 0.05 seconds and then wind it up. In this case, the pore size of the spinneret is
0.1~0.2mm, polymer melting temperature is 290℃~305℃
is suitable, and the spun yarn is preferably cooled and solidified by side-blown cooling air. In addition, in the case of stress heat treatment of 20% or less, it is preferable to use an inverted tapered roll or a stepped roll from the viewpoint of process stability. Such filaments have a single fiber denier similar to that of real silk, that is, less than 1 de, preferably 0.6 de or less, so that they have both flexibility and resilience, and give a supple texture. The filament yarn obtained in this way is crystalline, but its additional feature is that the degree of orientation f(a) of the amorphous part is in the range of 30 to 70%, and the density of the amorphous part is in the range of 30 to 70%.
It is mentioned that it is in the range of 1.335 g/cm ³ or more. In particular, the former has a structure that is completely absent from conventional crystalline polyester filament yarns, and this is due to the fact that when fabrics are treated with alkali (which is a well-known means of enhancing the silky effect), ultra-fine monomers are formed. This means that it is attacked synergistically by alkali in combination with fiber. The latter density also indicates that the dimensional stability of the filament itself is satisfactory for practical purposes. On the other hand, for component (B), which is a high shrinkage component, polyester-based drawn yarn, partially oriented yarn spun at a spinning speed of 3000 m/min or more, is heated to 200°C under tension of 50% or more.
Filament threads, etc. that have been heat-treated at the front and back are used. The important thing here is that this filament yarn will later shrink and become a core component, creating tension and resilience, so it is necessary that the single fiber denier is larger than that of component (A), and usually 1 de~ It should be in the 3de range. It is sufficient that the difference in _{ε 0.2 between} these components (A) and (B) is at least 0.005, and these components are combined as appropriate so that they have different shapes, different colors, and different luster, and are subjected to the blending process. be able to.
In addition, the weight ratio of component (A) and component (B) is 20 to 80:80:20.
Outside this range, flexibility, swelling, repulsion, etc. cannot be satisfied at the same time. This fiber blending process can be carried out by first opening each component (A) and (B) with static electricity or fluid and then combining the two, or by introducing the components in an aligned state into a fluid disturbance area to mix and entangle the fibers. Any known fiber mixing method can be used, such as a method of mixing fibers. However, in consideration of productivity, thread handling (weavability), etc., interlace treatment is most preferable. This technology has already been developed by Tokko Akira.
As described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 36-12230 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 37-1175, components (A) and (B) are arranged and mixed by feeding them to a turbulent nozzle with the net overfeed amount being substantially zero. All you have to do is thread it. In this case, the standard for mixing fibers is determined by the so-called degree of interlacing, and it is usually sufficient to obtain an interlacing degree of about 5 strands/m to 80 strands/m. The total denier of the blended yarn thus obtained must be at least 30 de; if it is less than this, the threads constituting the fabric will be insufficiently thick or the blended yarn will not have a sufficient number of filaments. In addition, at the time of manufacturing the mixed fiber yarn, other filament yarns with a weight ratio equal to or less than that of components (A) and (B), especially single yarns with a positive value of ε _{0.2 and} a denier of 3 to 3.
5de filament yarn may also be used. The effect in this case is that when the fabric is subjected to relaxation contraction treatment, a three-layer structure is formed due to the complex action of contraction and expansion within the tissue. It has the same effect as real silk. Next, the above-mentioned mixed fiber yarn is usually subjected to a weaving (knitting) process without being subjected to shrinkage treatment, but in this case, it is decided whether to use untwisted or twisted (additional twist) depending on the intended fabric. Furthermore, in terms of yarn use, it can be used in various combinations in non-twisted and/or additionally twisted states, light and weft. In the subsequent scouring and finishing process, such fabrics undergo shrinkage treatment while immersed in hot boiling water (these are sometimes applied in the form of scouring baths or dye liquors), and the silk life decreases based on the shrinkage stress difference between the filaments. This creates a bulge and surface touch effect. In this case, it is also advantageous to perform alkali treatment (reducing weight) to develop silk's unique drapability and elasticity, but in general, presetting is performed after the scouring fabric has been sufficiently shrunk to increase the crimp rate. If this is followed by alkali treatment, large interfiber voids can be obtained and the contact pressure between the light yarn and the weft can be effectively reduced. As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to provide a mixed fiber yarn that exhibits a sufficient potential shrinkage difference even under load. At the same time, various characteristics that could not be satisfied were made possible to coexist. Example 1 [I] Production of mixed fiber yarn (i) Yarn usage

[Table] In addition, the filament yarn of component (A) has an intrinsic viscosity of
0.61 chip is melted at 295℃, pore size is 0.15mm,
Draft 420 from a spindle with 70 holes, spinning (collection)
Taken off at a speed of 3800 m/min, tension rate 2% and roller temperature before winding up through a reverse tapered roller.
Obtained by tension heat treatment at 170°C for a treatment time of 0.03 seconds. In addition, component (B) is prepared as (A) according to the usual method for producing drawn yarn.
After melting the polyester chips used in the production of the components, they were once wound up as an undrawn yarn at a spinning speed of 1500 m/min, and then stretched using a drawing machine at a drawing temperature of 85°C.
It was obtained by hot stretching at a stretching ratio of 6.5. (ii) Production of mixed fiber yarn (A) and (B) components were interlaced using the interlace nozzle shown in Figure 3 of Japanese Patent Publication No. 37-1175 (air pressure 3.1 kg/G overfeed rate 0.3%). A blended yarn with a fiber density of 60 strands/m was obtained. (iii) Manufacture of woven fabric (flat weave jersey) Using the mixed yarn obtained in (ii) for the warp and weft, the warp density was 69.
After weaving at a fiber density of 38 fibers/cm and a weft density of 38 fibers/cm, shrinkage treatment is performed in hot water at 97°C for 12 minutes using a rotary washer. Next, the fabric after the shrinkage treatment was preset while overfeeding by 3% in the warp direction, and then the alkali loss was reduced by 12% (25
(1 minute treatment) was performed. On average, this fabric closely resembled that of silk in terms of texture, surface touch, touch, drapability, etc. Incidentally, the properties of the above-mentioned fabric are shown in Table 1 in comparison with that of this silk dioset and a conventional polyester dioset.

【table】

[Table] Example 2 A load of 0.15 g/de was applied to each of the mixed fiber yarn obtained in Example 1 and the polyester mixed fiber yarn (sample length 20 cm), which is the material of the conventional product cited for comparison in Example 1. The bulk height of each was measured after being suspended in boiling water for 30 minutes and then air-dried.The former was 6.8cm ³ /g, and the latter was
It was 5.6 cm ³ /g. Incidentally, the ε _0.2 and boiling water shrinkage rate _of the polyester blend yarn for comparison are as follows. ε _0.2 (Boiling water shrinkage rate) High shrinkage component (30/12) -0.034 (12%) _Low shrinkage component (30/24) -0.030 (8%).

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A polyester blend yarn having a total denier of at least 30 de, the blend yarn containing at least 50% by weight of filament yarn of the following components, and (A), (B ) components are mixed in a weight ratio of 20 to 80:80 to 20. (A) Component; Single fiber denier is less than 1 de _{and ε 0.2 is} -
Polyester multifilament yarn (B) with 0.025≦ε ₀ . ₂ < 0 Component; Single fiber denier is 1 to 3 de and ε ₀ . ₂ is ε
_0.2 < _-0.025 polyester _{multifilament} yarn [where ε _0.2 means the structural integrity parameter of the filament and is defined by the following formula. ε ₀ . ₂ = l ₁ − l ₀ / l ₁ l ₀ is 0.2 at one end of the filament thread with a sample length of 10 cm.
The length when a load of g/de is suspended, l ₁ is the length of the filament yarn when the filament yarn under the load is immersed in boiling water and treated for 2 minutes, then taken out from the boiling water and cooled to 20°C. (the load remains the same). 2. The polyester blend yarn according to claim 1, wherein the degree of amorphous orientation f(a) of component (A) is 30 to 70% [However, f(a) follows the following definition. Here, Δn is the birefringence measured by the Senalmo method using a polarizing microscope, fc is the crystal orientation degree (%) determined by the X-ray diffraction method, and χρ is the crystallinity degree (%) determined by the density method. . 3. The polyester blend yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amorphous part density ρa of component (A) is 1.335 g/cm ³ or more [However, ρa follows the following definition. Here, ρ is the density measured at 25° C. in an n-heptane-carbon tetrachloride-based density gradient tube, and χ _X is the crystallinity (%) determined by a conventional method using X-ray analysis. ] 4. Polyester blend yarn (C) according to claim 1, which is a blend of the following component (C) in an amount of at most 50% by weight or less _. . Polyester multifilament yarn where ₂ is 0<ε≦0.03