JPS61108740A - Silk spun like composite processed yarn, its production and production of silk spun like fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Technical Field The present invention relates to a method for producing a spun wild silkworm composite processed yarn, and further to a method for producing a spun wild silkworm product using the processed yarn.

<Prior art> Boxed wild silkworm fabric has a rustic appearance unique to wild silkworms (slab exterior with a glossy and natural feel), lightness, fullness, moderate waist 9 repellency, and other features unique to wild silkworms. It has a dry tack texture.

Until now, synthetic lIn has been used to improve the appearance of wild silkworms.
Many techniques have been used for
, JP 58-156071), as a result of this, it has recently become possible to develop slub yarns that have a spun wild silk-like slub shape, lightweight feel, and great bulge.
-41869).

However, both of them are one step away from the natural boxed wild silkworm fabric due to the dry touch texture of Seibo WJI Ai.
The steps were far apart.

<Object of the Invention> The object of the present invention is to improve the above-mentioned drawbacks and provide a processed silk yarn and a fabric thereof having an excellent dry touch texture.

<Structure of the Invention> In order to express the unique texture (fullness, lightness, and dry touch) and appearance (natural gloss, slab shape) of refined wild silkworms, the present inventors developed a fabric with an irregular cross section. discovered that the key is to extrude a bulky, airy slab-structured yarn made of polyester filaments with porosity-forming ability, and after forming the processed yarn into a fabric with a low fabric cover factor, Through the weight loss treatment, striped voids are formed in the fiber axial direction on the fiber surface, and by flattening (crushed) processing, the unique texture and appearance of the desired box-packed wild silkworm fabric are further emphasized. We found out that.

The processed yarn constituting the woven fabric of the present invention is composed of two or more types of porous polyester filaments, and to explain the porous polyester filaments in detail, more than half of these fibers are at least on the fiber surface. is on 5μ meditation,
In addition, it is preferable that streak-like voids having a ratio of width to void width of 5 or more are arranged in the fiber If axis direction.
The striped voids do not need to be continuous, but the striped voids have a length of 5μ or more and a length/gap width ratio of 5 or more, preferably 10 or more. It is preferable that the portion occupies more than half of the total linear voids,
When the ratio of such streaky voids is more than half of the total streaky voids, the dry feeling that is the object of the present invention can be sufficiently obtained.

FIG. 1 is a side view schematically showing the linear voids on the surface of the porous polyester fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, and 1 indicates the linear voids FJi.

In FIG. 1, shi indicates the length of the striped void, and W indicates the void width of the maximum void FJi of the striped void. Even if the length of the H-shaped gap exceeds 5μ, it is desirable that the gap width of the maximum gap portion satisfies W77LL/W≧5, and when this relationship is L/W<5, am The ratio of the area occupied by the linear voids to the total area of the surface is large, and due to this, in woven or knitted fabrics, fibrillation of fibers, especially the 11111
This is not preferable because the phenomenon of fibrillation on the surface occurs, causing problems such as surface abrasion and fading of the worn portion.

The shape of the irregular cross section of the porous polyester filament at this time is such a shape as to impart a natural glossy feel and a dry touch texture, and it is preferable to use, for example, the shape shown in FIG. 2. In particular, as shown in FIG. 2(C), it is preferable to have a C-shaped or V-shaped cross section and a constriction in the center of the cross section.

FIG. 2 is a sectional view showing an example of an irregular cross-sectional shape that can be applied to the porous polyester fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.

In the porous polyester processed yarn constituting the fabric of the present invention, one filament yarn is arranged almost in the core, and the other filament yarn forming a sheath with respect to the core is arranged in a multilayer spiral around the core. It is a core-sheath composite processed yarn consisting of a slab part wound in a shape and a ground part twisted in one direction around the core yarn, and the twist coefficient (α) of the slab part and the twist coefficient (α ' ) satisfies the following range at the same time, and the weight ratio of core yarn and sheath yarn is 6=1 to 1:7, which is a silk-spun and silkworm-like composite processed yarn, 0.01≦α≦ 0.20 and 0.06≦α′≦0.38 Here, in the production of composite textured yarn according to the present invention, it is made of filament yarns having two or more types of porous morphology, and one filament system is formed almost in the core. When performing a sheath-like composite plate twisting process in which the other filament thread forming a sheath part is arranged around the core part and randomly forms a slab part in which the other filament yarn forms a sheath part around the core part three times or more. , the fineness (@mouth) ratio of the core yarn and the sheath yarn is oe core yarn: DeB! Yarn-5:1 to 1:5 and the twist coefficient (β) of the core yarn is within the following range: 0.20≦β≦0
．． 46 At the same time, composite plate twisting is performed such that the excess supply rate (f) of the sheath yarn to the core yarn is 0.40≦f≦0.95 with respect to the twist coefficient of the core yarn.

Regarding the production of spun wild silkworm ri4Jl products according to the present invention,
It is characterized in that a woven fabric is made by using the above-mentioned spun and processed composite yarn as the warp and/or weft, and then the woven fabric is subjected to alkali weight reduction processing and flattening processing.

Each requirement of the present invention will be described below.

CI] Requirements for porous polyester filament The present invention requires processed yarn made of porous polyester filament in order to obtain the dry texture unique to spun wild silkworms. It is made by adding additives to a polyester composition.

For example, at least a portion of the organic sulfonic acid metal salt blended into the m rag is melt-spun through a predetermined spinneret, stretched, and then immersed in an aqueous solution of an alkaline compound. A method of eluting and removing is simple and preferable.

The polyester used here has terephthalic acid as its main acid component and is an alkylene glycol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, that is, ethylene glycol.

trimethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol,
The object is a polyester whose main glycol component is at least one glycol selected from pentamethylene glycol and hexamethylene glycol, particularly preferably ethylene glycol and tetramethylene glycol. In such a polyester, part of its acid component terephthalic acid may be replaced with another difunctional carboxylic acid. Further, part of the glycol component may be replaced with another glycol component.

Such polyesters can be obtained by any production method.For example, polyethylene terephthalate can be obtained by directly esterifying terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol, or by combining a lower alkyl ester of terephthalic acid such as dimethyl terephthalate with ethylene glycol. The first step is to produce a glycol ester of terephthalic acid and/or its low polymer by transesterifying or reacting terephthalic acid with ethylene oxide, and then heating the product under reduced pressure. The second step is to carry out a polycondensation reaction until the desired degree of polymerization is reached.
It is easily produced by step reaction.

The organic sulfonic acid metal salt to be blended into the above polyester has the following general formula % R represents an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms, an aryl group having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, or an alkylaryl group; 0M represents an alkali metal or an alkaline earth Indicates similar metals.

The one shown is appropriate. In the general formula, when R is an alkyl group or an alkylaryl group, it may have a linear or branched side chain.In particular, from the viewpoint of compatibility with polyester, organic sulfone plating air temperature in which R is an alkyl group The preferred 1M is Na, an alkali metal such as Li, or an alkaline earth metal such as MO or Ca. Among these, Na and K are preferred.

Note that when using the organic sulfonic acid metal salt, it is not necessary to use a single compound, and a mixture of organic sulfonic acid metal salts having various alkyl groups or alkylaryl groups may be used.

Specifically, such organic sulfonic acid metal salts include:
Preferred examples include stearyl sulfone soda, octylsulfonate sodium, dodecylsulfonate sodium, and mixtures of alkylsulfonate soda having an average carbon number of 14.

The amount of the organic sulfonic acid metal salt added to the polyester is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3 parts by weight per 100 parts by weight of the polyester. If the amount exceeds 3 parts by weight, mixing operations, spinning, etc. will become difficult, which is not preferable.

Such organic sulfonic acid metal salts can be added to polyester at any stage before the completion of spinning. For example, even if they are added in advance to the raw materials for polyester production, they can be added during the first stage reaction or subsequent to this (in the second stage). It is also possible to add it during the polycondensation reaction, or by melt-mixing the polymer obtained after the polycondensation reaction and the organic sulfonic acid metal salt using, for example, a melt extruder;

It is also possible to adopt a method in which it is added to the polymer and mixed in a previous step.

[I] Requirements for textured yarn (+) Significance of the range of α (0.01≦α≦0.20); α is the number of twists in the ground section when the slab section and the ground section are untwisted together. This is the twist coefficient (α) of the slab portion after subtracting the number of untwists.

α〉0.2 is the limit of the flexibility of the slab portion (easiness to collapse and bulge), and α〉0.01 is the limit value from the ease of slippage of the slab derived from the following α′, preferably 0. .05≦α≦0.19 is adopted.

■ Significance of the range of α'(0,06≦α'≦0.38):α'< o, os ' is the limit of the ease of slippage of the slab, and if it is less than this, it is not suitable for practical use, α > 0.3
8 is the limit value of the flexibility of the slab derived from the number of twists (α) of the slab portion.

(To) Weight ratio of core yarn to sheath yarn (6:1 to 1 near)
! Definition: If it is less than 6:1, it is difficult to form a slab, while if it exceeds 1, the slab thick-to-fine ratio is too large, and yarn processability and weavability are significantly reduced.The thick-to-fine ratio of the slab part is preferably in the ground part. On the other hand, a spindle-shaped soft slab of about 1.5 to 5.0 is preferable.

The above range is preferably 1:1 to 1:5.

The above requirements (1) to (to) must be satisfied at the same time, and the number of slabs is 30 at most and 15M or less, and the slab length is 30.
~200 am, the slab-like processed yarn has an airy slab structure (the twist coefficient (α) of the slab part of the conventional sheath-like composite processed yarn is very high at 0.21 to 0.35). A spun wild silkworm polyester false-twisted composite processed yarn is obtained (in the form of a tight slab).

Here, α (α') is determined by the following formula.

(1) Core yarn and sheath yarn fiber ff: (ml amount) ratio (5:1
The significance of the range of ~1:5); if it is less than 5:1, the slab form will be docile;
If it exceeds 5, the thick-to-fine ratio after processing is too large and the false twisting processability is significantly reduced.

Preferably, the fineness ratio is 1:2 to 1:3.

■ Twisting coefficient of core yarn (β”) (0,20≦β≦0.4
6) Significance of the range: β< 0.20 is the limit for slabs that are easy to dislodge, and β>
At 0.46, it becomes a tight slab form.

(To) The significance of the excess supply rate (f) of sheath yarn to core yarn being 0.40≦t≦0.95 with respect to the twist coefficient of core yarn: r < 0.4 is the lower limit of the slab thick/thin ratio If it is less than this, the slab will be too quiet. Also r > 0.95
significantly reduces the roughness and processability.

(Excess supply rate of sheath yarn relative to β) The airy slab form as described above cannot be achieved simply by low-temperature, low-false-twisting processing to eliminate the woolly depth, but also by It is established based on the appropriate balance of three factors: the twist coefficient, the supply rate of the core yarn with respect to the twist coefficient, and the ium ratio.

[IV] Manufacturing method of silk-spun FW woven fabric When the above-described spun wildbuki-like composite processed yarn is used as the warp and/or weft to make a woven fabric, and then subjected to flattening processing for alkali weight reduction treatment. , (1) When making a woven fabric using the IJI composite processed yarn for the warp and/or weft, the cover factor of the finished fabric (CF>500≦CF≦12)
00° Preferably, it is organized to have a low CF of 700≦CF≦1000. Here, CF is expressed by the following formula.

CF - number of warps / cx Select the appropriate process and flattening conditions according to the gloss, texture, and durability effect. (I flat type processing uses an electric press machine, flat press machine, rotary calender machine, etc., and the pressure is 20 to 200%. d,
80-200° C.) conditions are used.

(To) In particular, since the composite processed yarn is made of polyester filaments containing additives that have the ability to form porous shapes, the weight loss processing of the fabric is carried out at a weight loss rate of 30% or less, preferably 10 to 20%. By carrying out this process within the range, the voids between the fibers of the slab increase, making it easier to flatten the fabric (and imparting a soft and light feel to the fabric), as well as removing the additives from the additive-containing filament yarn, and reducing the sui that constitutes the fabric.
Creates streak-like voids on the surface of the fabric to give it a dry touch feel.

Furthermore, this also provides drapeability for the item.

(f) The bulk of the fabric is 1.5a+l/9 or more, preferably 2.0d19 or more.

As described above, when (1) to (f) are simultaneously satisfied, a tIa product with a more emphasized refined wild protein taste can be obtained.

Effect> By using the polyester filament yarn containing additives that has the ability to form porosity with an irregular cross-section according to the present invention, a composite processed yarn made of polyester having an extremely soft and airy slab structure can be made into a woven fabric with a low CF (cover factor). ,
After that, additives are removed by alkali weight loss treatment and flattened (crushed) processing is performed to improve the appearance characteristics (natural luster and natural slab pattern with large thickness ratio) and texture (especially irregular cross-section) of finely spun wild silkworm fabrics. Dry touch due to streaky voids created along the fiber axis direction of the yarn, moderate tension (1 repulsion), and lightweight feel (1.5 ci/g or more in fabric nature, preferably 2 ci/9) A spun wild silkworm-like polyester fabric having both the above) and polyester properties (wrinkle resistance, W&W properties) can be obtained.

<Example> After adding 1 part of a mixture of alkali sulfonic acid Sogu and making chips, chips were made into chips according to a conventional method.
A multifilament containing an additive containing 1 part of 101i of 7SDeA8fil was obtained. The additive-containing filament was used for both the core and sheath, and the twist coefficient (β) of the core yarn was 0.
．． 40, the excess supply ratio (α) of the sheath yarn to the core yarn is 0.
64, and at a false twisting set temperature of 160°C, the core yarn in the false twisting side area 15 was supplied unevenly with the sheath yarn to perform simultaneous core-sheath composite plate twisting. Ta.

As a result, a slab yarn having an actual denier of 188Q e in which a ground part and a slab part coexist is obtained, the twist coefficient (α') of the ground part is o, 2o, and the twist coefficient (α
) is 0.10, and the core/sheath type weight ratio is 1:1.6.
The slab exhibits 7-lead and hard-to-slip properties.

The slub yarn was used for warp and 12 yarns to make a fabric with a 2i2 twill structure with a finished CF of 800. After scouring the fabric, the weight loss rate was 201/2 with caustic soda (359/J1. boiling condition). At the same time, the treatment ml was 160°C.
Flattening was carried out under a pressure of 100 m/d, and then a normal finishing set was applied.

Although the obtained porous polyester filament fabric has a low CF, it has a high fabric coverage rate due to the shaping process of the slub yarn, and the woven fabric has a high fabric coverage rate due to the processing of the porous polyester filament with a rough machine. Because the voids are made larger and striped voids are created in the direction of the fiber axis, the fabric exhibits a lightweight feel with an extremely full and dry feel (fabric intrinsic value of 2.0g/aI), and the appearance is also shaped. It was a finely spun woven silk fabric that had a slab effect with a slab thickness ratio of 1:4 after processing, and a glossy effect with a natural feel due to the irregular cross-section yarns in which the striped voids were present.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a partially enlarged view showing the surface condition of the filament used in the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a diagram showing an example of the cross section of the filament. W...Length of the striped void W...Width of the striped void (α) (C) (e) Figure 2 (b) (d) (f)

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) Consisting of two or more different cross-section polyester filaments containing a porosity-forming agent that causes striped voids to exist in the fiber axis direction, one of the filament yarns is arranged almost in the core, and the core A core-sheath composite consisting of a slab part in which the other filament thread forming a sheath part is wound around the core part in a multilayer spiral shape, and a ground part in which the core thread is twisted in one direction. In the processed yarn, the twist coefficient (α) of the slab part and the twist coefficient (α') of the ground part simultaneously satisfy the following range, and the weight ratio of the core yarn and sheath yarn is 6:
Silk-spun and silkworm-like composite processed yarn characterized by a ratio of 1 to 1:7 0.01≦α≦0.20 and 0.06≦α′≦0.38 where α (α′) = slab part twist Number (number of twists in the ground part) × {√ [(core + sheath)
De]/32,500} (2) Consisting of two or more types of polyester threads containing a micropore-forming agent, one filament thread is arranged approximately in the core part and forms a sheath part with respect to the core part. When performing a core-sheath composite false twisting process in which a slab portion in which the other filament yarn is wound three times or more around the core portion is randomly formed, the fineness (weight) ratio of the core yarn and the sheath yarn is De core yarn: De sheath yarn = 5:1 to 1:5, and the twist coefficient (β) of the core yarn is within the following range: 0.20
≦β≦0.46 At the same time, the composite false twisting process is performed by making the excess supply rate (f) of the sheath yarn to the core yarn to be 0.40≦f≦0.95 with respect to the twist coefficient of the core yarn. A method for producing silk-spun and silkworm-like composite processed yarn. Here, β=number of false twists×[√(De of core yarn)]/32,500f=
[Sheath thread supply thread tension (m/min)]/[Coiling thread supply system length (m/min)]
/min)]×Number of false twists×[√(De of core yarn)]/32,50
0(3) The silk-spun and silkworm-like composite processed yarn described in claim 1 is used as the warp and/or weft to form a woven fabric, which is then treated with an alkaline solution and subjected to shaping processing. A method for manufacturing silk-spun silkworm-like fabrics with a rich dry feel.