JPS6017143A - Weaving of new saga nichiki - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] The present invention relates to a new Saga Nishiki weaving method that inherits the traditional Saga Nishiki technique and improves the handmade method to enable machine weaving.

Saga Nishiki is a flat woven fabric that was started 170 years ago in the inner part of Kashima Castle by the feudal lord's wife and the lady of the palace, T-11, and was originally called Kashima Nishiki.

After the Meiji period, the name was changed to Saga Nishiki because Shika (?j) Castle belongs to Saga Prefecture, and it remains to this day.

The characteristic of Saga Nishiki is that it is made of thin, strong washi paper coated with lacquer and glued with gold or silver leaf.The warp (11) (excluding the front and back ends) is cut vertically into a specified number of warps (hereinafter referred to as warp threads). (called a warping machine), as well as silk thread and gold thread.

Silver threads or lame threads are called weft threads (hereinafter referred to as threads).
The above warp threads are stretched on a small woven fabric so that the front and back ends can be pasted and weaved in, and then the above threads are threaded with a fine needle (Ahari) while scooping up the warp threads individually with a spatula. , Weaving is done by hand, such as hammering in with a spatula. : Who is a gorgeous textile?

There are three ways to weave Saga Nishiki: plain weave, twill weave, and patterned weave. Plain weave is woven by scooping every other warp with a spatula and threading the threads between the two with a spatula. To make twill weave, look at the design of twill weave B drawn as shown in Fig. 2 on the oblong graph paper shown in Fig. 1, and while counting the number of stitches, use a spatula to cut through the warping machine, and then pass the thread between them using the ahari. Weave C.

Furthermore, for pattern weaving, look at the pattern weaving design drawn on horizontally oblong graph paper A in FIG. The third space is the weaving section where the thread is moved back and forth from side to side once, and the pattern E is woven while counting the number of stitches in the design as described above. There are three weaving methods for this pattern weaving: a pattern weaving only, a pattern weaving in which the ground is twill weave B, and a pattern weaving in which twill weave B is included in a part of the pattern weaving.

However, in the conventional weaving method of Saga Nishiki, as shown in Figure 2, although it is possible to weave twill C with twill weave B, weaving of twill weave B can produce pattern E as shown in Figure 3, or It was impossible to express the picture pattern F based on free ideas in the same way as the painting shown in Figure 4. This is because pattern E and picture pattern F are not expressed in the pattern weave, and the pattern weave of Saga Nishiki is based on plain weave.
Furthermore, it is extremely difficult to create the design of the pattern due to the difference in weaving structure between plain weave and twill weave, and it requires a lot of effort and time.

In addition, it was considered impossible to add a picture pattern using twill into the ground pattern of twill weave with traditional Saga Nishiki. This is because the structure of the design is extremely complex for the reasons mentioned above, and it takes a lot of effort and time to reproduce such a complicated design on a historical site.

Furthermore, even if the design described above is complicated to create, it can be solved by taking time. However, the traditional method of making Saga Nishiki was limited to narrow-width fabrics that were mainly used as materials for bags and obi, and it was completely impossible to weave wide-width fabrics such as Western-style fabrics. This is because, as mentioned above and shown in FIG. 6, the warp pad 7 of Saga Nishiki is made up of the warp table 5 made of washi paper. Therefore, the above-mentioned warp fabric 7 has a limited width, and since it is Japanese paper, it is completely impossible to clean it, so it is impossible to make large woven fabrics such as clothing fabrics that require cleaning and width.
The problem with Saga Nishiki, a traditional high-quality fabric that rivaled silk, was that it was only used by a few enthusiasts.

This invention was made to solve the above problems, and its purpose is to make it possible to express patterns in twill weave, which was considered impossible with Saga Nishiki, and to make it possible to express patterns on the ground pattern of this twill weave. By adding a twill pattern to the inside and replacing the texture with synthetic fibers such as polyester that can be mass-produced, the traditional method of making Saga Nishiki was limited to narrow-width fabrics, and the patterned fabrics were mainly plain weaves. The diagonal weave of the twill weave gives it a soft feel, no wrinkles, and it can be dry-cleaned and woven in large lengths, making it popular as a clothing material. Shinsaga Nishiki (Koulin Nishikiori) that can be easily achieved
Each weaving method is provided.

A weaving method for expressing a pattern using twill weave, which is the basic gist of this invention, will be explained. In this example, in order to facilitate understanding, the pattern represented by twill weave will be explained using a perfect circle. That is, as shown in FIG. 5, first, a basic design 11 of a perfect circle, which will become the original, is drawn on horizontally oblong graph paper in the same manner as the Saga Nishiki plain weave, to produce the original design paper 1. In this case, the ground pattern of the twill weave is also drawn on the same original pattern paper 1 in the same manner as the plain weave of Saga Nishiki, but this is omitted for ease of explanation.

Next, based on the basic design H above, draw it on another horizontally oblong graph paper A.
As shown in FIGS. 7 and 8, an elliptical correction pattern K is drawn using a reference magnification to be described later.

This elliptical correction design is drawn at the following magnification based on the basic principle of this invention. In other words, the pattern weave in Saga Nishiki is made by thread (not shown) going back and forth once between the three slots of horizontally oblong graph paper A, while the twill weave is created by making one row between three wefts of horizontally long graph paper A. Because one layer is created by passing the thread through once, it requires twice as much space in the width direction as plain weave.Also, the threads pile up (clog) in twill weave more than in plain weave, so in the length direction, 3 times as much space as in plain weave is required. It would require twice as much space. According to this basic principle, as shown in Figure 8, if the original value corresponding to the diameter of the basic design H is 1, the horizontal value S to be corrected will be 2, and the vertical value T will be 3. According to the standard magnification, as shown in Figure 7, a modified oval pattern K using the two numerical values S and T to create a pattern in twill weave.
, and create the corrected drawing sheet 4. In this case as well, the ground pattern of the twill weave is drawn on the corrected pattern paper 4 using the above-mentioned reference magnification, but is omitted for the sake of ease of explanation.

According to the above basic principle, even if the green space 7 made of the warp table 5 shown in FIG. It is possible to weave fabrics that are almost similar to Saga Nishiki). That is, while looking at the above-mentioned pattern K, it is possible to scoop up the warping machine 5 with a spatula used for Saga nishikiori in the same number as the number of stitches on this pattern paper 4, and pass the thread through the space between them. In this case, the above green area 7 is created by pasting gold or silver leaf on thin, strong washi paper using lacquer as an adhesive, as described above, and then cutting the middle part, excluding the front and back edges, into a specified number of pieces in the vertical direction. is shaped as a warp machine 5 for weaving the wefts, but the prescribed number of cuts in the vertical direction to form this warp machine 5 is generally cut 3 cm wide into 20 warp machines 5 and divide by 20. Then, in the same way, 25 sutras #jE are cut into 5 pieces to make 250% of the total, and the proportion increases sequentially to 5 sutras. 'G can be shaped into two
It's happening. Therefore, the warp width 6 has a different numerical value depending on the above-mentioned prescribed division number. Note that since the hybrid weave shown in FIG. 4 has a weave of 300%, it is possible to achieve a similar weaving method by making the warp 5 also have a weave of 300%.

Embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

In the construction method of this invention, a polyester synthetic fiber (not shown) is used in place of the warp table 5 made of Japanese paper at the above-mentioned stage, and this is used as a green space 7. In addition, the green space 7 made of polyester is made of 30% of the polyester to bring out the taste of Saga Nishiki, and the color is gold, the width of the pond is widened to 95 cm, and the threads are made of silk. By weaving the green area 7 made of polyester and the weft yarn made of silk yarn as shown in FIG. 2 using the modified pattern paper 4 shown in FIG. 7 using a known large-scale weaving machine for chemical fibers, the twill weave fabric shown in FIG. 4 is obtained. It is possible to weave a hybrid weave (Shin-Saga Nishiki) that has a picture pattern in the twill.

・Shin-Saga Nishiki (Kourin Nishikiori) mentioned above is a creative weaving method that uses silk thread on a green polyester background to create a twill pattern within the twill pattern, so fabrics finished using this weaving method. has improved the conventional pattern weaving of Saga Nishiki, which has a plain weave as a base and is not stiff, and uses a twill weave based on a diagonal weave, which is not stiff. Therefore, it is possible to weave the entire fabric into a fabric that exhibits the soft feel of silk and the advantages of polyester as a material, and exhibits wrinkle-free characteristics. Furthermore, the polyester material mentioned above allows for dry cleaning.
Furthermore, by wide-scale weaving, the green area is made into gold and the thread is made into silk, as shown in Figure 9, to create the plain evening dress 8 of dress δlld, making it easy to commercialize it as a clothing fabric for the masses. It is something.

As explained in ``-'', this invention makes it possible to express a pattern with twill weave, insert a twill pattern into the ground pattern of this twill weave, and mass-produce polyester etc. as the material for the green area. By replacing it with synthetic fibers, Saga Nishiki's traditional construction method eliminates the small width and hardness of the pattern weaving, which is mainly hand-woven, resulting in an extremely soft feel, no wrinkles, and is dry-cleanable. Wide weaving has become possible and it can be easily commercialized as a clothing material for the masses.With a new idea, it has become possible to use Saga Nishiki's traditional narrow woven fabric in wide range of Western clothing as a wide woven fabric. It has the effect of greatly contributing to the inheritance of culture that utilizes culture in modern methods and to improving technology in the fashion world.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Figure 1 is a partial plan view of a conventionally used oblong graph paper, Figure 2 is a partial plan view showing a twill weave pattern drawn on the graph paper in Figure 1, and Figure 3 is a weave design with the same pattern. Partial plan view, Figure 4 is a photograph of a partial plan view of Shin Saga Nishiki made of mixed weave, Figure 5 is a plan view showing the original design paper for basic explanation, and Figure 6 is an outline showing the sutra table used for conventional Saga Nishiki. 7 is a partial schematic plan view of the revised design paper made based on the original design paper of FIG. 5, FIG. 8 is an explanatory diagram of the main part of FIG. 7, and FIG. It is an explanatory view, not showing an evening dress made of Saga Nishiki. 1... Original design paper 4... Revised design paper 7...
Green space A... Oblong graph paper C... Aya D...
Pattern weaving E... Pattern I]... Basic design K... Modified design L... Original value S... Lateral value T...
Vertical numerical patent applicant Hirote Ujida Figure 1 Figure 2, Sea Figure 31 Figure 4 Figure 6 Figure 7 Figure 7'A; Figure 8 procedural amendment (method) November 1'1, 1988 qJi permission Director-General Kazuo Wakasugi 1 Case description Patent application filed in 1986], 18266
No. 2 Name of the invention Nisaka Nishiki weaving method 3 Relationship with the person making the amendment Destruction Patent applicant Ju PJr (F5R) 1-14, Setatsujuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
3 Name Hiroko Narita 4 Name of agent Patent attorney (6834) Yasuo Miyoshi '-bo ((
1 or 1 person) 5. Date of amendment order October 1, 1982 (shipment date
(October 25, 1981) (1) Akeura] Book 10, line 14 to line 11 of the same page, ``Figure 4 is a photograph of a partial plan view of Shin-Saga Nishiki made of mixed weave;
” [Figure 4 is a partial plan view of Shin-Saga Nishiki made of mixed weave] 3
Thirdly, there was the death of an attendant, 9 Mt. Kusunoki,...

Claims (1)

[Claims] A basic pattern is created in the same manner as for plain weaving, and a second pattern is created based on this basic pattern.The ground pattern of the twill weave is created by mechanical weaving using synthetic fiber as the warp and silk thread as the weft using the above revised design. Shinsaga Nishiki's weaving method is characterized by a twill pattern inside.