JPH02178216A - Warming type hair treatment - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a hair treatment, containing a cysteine derivative, cationic polymer and specific alcohol and capable of semipermanently waving hair by coating the hair therewith and warming the hair and further semipermanently improving the touch of the hair. CONSTITUTION:A warming type hair treatment containing (A) 0.1-5.0wt.%, (especially 0.5-3.0wt.%) cysteine derivative selected from the group of compounds expressed by formula I (R1 is H or 1-3C acyl), e.g. N-acetyl-3-mercaptoalanine and glutathione, (B) 0.01-30.0wt.% (especially 0.1-10.0wt.%) cationic polymer, e.g. a quaternary derivative of a cellulose ether, quaternary ammonium polymers and vinylpyrrolidone copolymers and (C) 0.1-50wt.% (especially 2-20wt.%) compound expressed by formula II (R2 is 1-5C alkyl) (e.g. diethylene glycol methyl ether) and/or aromatic alcohol (especially benzyl alcohol).

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention provides a heating method that can semi-permanently improve the feel of curly hair by applying it to hair and heating it to create semi-permanent waves. This invention relates to a hair treatment agent.

[Conventional technology and its problems]

In the early days, as a method of giving semi-permanent waves to hair, there was a method of deforming hair, which was called hair waving, in which sulfite was used and an aqueous alkaline solution with a high pH was heated. Furthermore, the most common method in recent years is
First, the S-S bonds in the hair are reductively opened using the No9-Manent Wave first agent, which contains thioglycolic acid, cysteine, and sulfite reducing agents as main components, and then bromate,
There is a so-called cold Q-manent wave method in which oxidative closure is performed using a second agent of No9-manent wave whose main component is an oxidizing agent such as a perborate or aqueous hydrogen peroxide. However, these methods are exposed to adverse conditions such as high pH aqueous alkaline solutions, high temperature heating, reduction, and oxidation, resulting in reduction of cysteine/bonds (S-S bonds) and elution of keratin proteins. The disadvantages were that the strength of the hair decreased and the feel of the hair deteriorated. Therefore, after performing the /Q-ma treatment, a so-called treatment agent containing a large amount of oil or protein hydrolyzate is applied to prevent hair damage. However, the effect of the treatment agent is temporary, and these ingredients are easily eluted from the hair when hair is washed, so it is often necessary to repeatedly treat the hair.

[Means to solve the problem]

In such a situation, the present inventor provides a method for modifying hair,
In other words, like the conventional 79-Manent Wave, it transforms hair semi-permanently without using a highly concentrated reducing agent that would damage the hair, and without using a high-pH alkaline aqueous solution or oxidizing agent. We have conducted intensive research into a treatment method that not only temporarily prevents hair damage caused by chemical treatments, but also actively modifies the hair so that the texture does not change even with shampoos. .

As a result, when used in low concentrations at room temperature, the reducing power is low and it is difficult to form sufficient waves, so the compound represented by the general formula (I) below and the glutathione group, which were previously considered unusable. Cystine derivatives selected from and cationic? Semi-permanent waves can be applied to the hair by applying a hair treatment agent containing a rimmer and a diethylene glycol monoalkyl ether and/or an aromatic alcohol represented by the general formula (I) described later to the hair and heating it. discovered that the feel of hair can be improved semi-permanently and completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention uses the following three components (A), (B) and (C).
) (3) A compound represented by the general formula (I) (wherein R1 represents hydrogen or an acyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms) and one or more cysteine derivatives (B ) Cationic? Rimer (C) Compound R1-QC represented by general formula (I)
)ItCH,OCH,CH,OH(II) (wherein R,
The present invention provides a heating type hair treatment agent characterized by containing (t: represents an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms) and/or an aromatic alcohol.

The cysteine derivatives of component (A) used in the heating hair treatment agent of the present invention include N-acetel-3-mercazotoalanine (hereinafter referred to as N-acetylcysti/);
N-propyl-3-mercatetoalanine, N-ethyl-
Examples include 3-mercazotoalanine and glutathione. These cysteine derivatives can be used in combination or alone, and are included in the heating hair treatment composition of the present invention.
1 to 5.0% by weight (hereinafter simply expressed as %), especially 0.5 to 5.0% by weight
A 3.0% combination is preferred.

As the cationic polymer as component (B) used in the heating type hair treatment agent of the present invention, in addition to the water-soluble cationic polymer described in JP-A No. 56-92812, dimeric polymers of lysine, which is a basic amino acid, are used. More homoamino acids than the body? Rimmer can be given. Examples of these cationic polymers include those shown below.

■ French patent 1,492, represented by the following formula (I),
The fourth derivative of cellulose ether described in No. 597: (wherein Re@jj is a group of anhydroglucose unit,
yViV6O13 is a number having a value of about 20,000 and each Rti independently represents one substituent, which is a group of the following general formula: where a is an integer having a value of 2 or 3; b is 2
or an integer having a value of 3; C is an integer having a value of 1 to 3; m is an integer having a value of 0 to 10; n is an integer having a value of 0 to 3;
p is an integer having a value of 1 to 10; or -C
When -0-NH4q is 0, R' represents -H;
R3, R4 and R, taken independently, each represent an alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkanol, cycloalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl group and each R3e R4 and Rs group is 1
may contain up to 0 carbon atoms, provided that there are at least two carbon atoms separating the oxygen atom from the nitrogen atom if the group is an alkoxyalkyl group, and also R8 + ” The total number of carbon atoms present in the groups represented by 4 and R5 Fi3 and 1
2: R3+ "4 and RaFi- together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached can represent one of the following groups: pyridine, α-methyl bilysine , 3,5-dimethylpyridine, 2
, 4.6-) Camethylbiricin, N-methylbipericine, N-ethylpipericine, N-methyl-morpholine, or N-ethyl-morpholine; X is an anion and is an integer equal to the valence of v#ix; The average value of the anhydroglucose units of cellulose ether is between 0.01 and about 1, and the average value of the anhydroglucose units of this cellulose ether is (
The average value of m+n+p+q) is between about 0.01 and about 4)] Most particularly preferred polymers are those corresponding to formula (I) given above, in which sj? and b is 2, q is O, m(!: n and p have the values given above, R' denotes hydrogen and R3+ R4 and R,
indicates methyl, the average value is 0.35 to 0.45 for n per anhydroglucose unit and m
It is 1 to 2 for the sum of +p, which indicates xFi chloride.

A preferred ether according to the invention is ABTMD-2
50 to 35 at 25°C in a 2% strength aqueous solution as measured by the method 364-65(7) (model LVF Brookfield viscometer, 30 revolutions/min, spindle number 2).
,000 centiboise and particularly desirable are those manufactured by Union Carbide Corporation such as JR-125J, JR-400J and JR-400J.
It has a trademark of 30MJ, but these are 125cm boise and 400cm, respectively? is and 30,000 ce/
Denotes a polymer of the above type having a Teboise viscosity.

■ Water-soluble 20,000 to 1. o o o, o
Copolymers having a molecular weight of o o are selected from the homopolymers and copolymers given below, but homopolymers, [IJ mer number is expressed by the following formula (2
) Also includes a unit corresponding to Fi(2'): (in the formula % R11 represents hydrogen or methyl, "? and R8 independently each other an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, an alkyl group preferably represents a hydroalkyl group or lower amidoalkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and R, and R8 taken together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached represent a cosmetically acceptable group. copolymers of acrylamide or of diacetone-acrylamide and the resulting copolymers give units corresponding to the formula (2) Copolymers of monomers are possible. These polymers include acetate,
It is in the form of cholate, bromide, chloride, citrate, tartrate, sulfite, hyposulfite, sulfate, phosphate or succinate.

Quaternary ammonium of the type defined above? Rimmer type 1
What is desirable for % is homodimethyldiallylammonium chloride? In Rimmer, Merqoto (MERQO person T)
) 10G and has a molecular weight less than 100,000, and dimethyldiallylammonium which has a molecular weight greater than soo,ooo and is sold by Merck under the name Melquat 550. A combination of chloride and acrylamide? It's Rimmer.

■ Quaternized le 17-mers shown by the following formula (3):
or represents a lower hydroxy aliphatic group, or R9 and Rtos and R11$P and Ittz together or separately form a heterocyclic structure with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, which or R*s RIOs ``11 and R11 are groups: [wherein R*s RIOs ''11 and R
1 Mushrooms are the same or different and represent aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or arariphatic groups containing at most 20 carbon atoms s ``H represents lower alkyl s R18 represents hydrogen or lower alkyl s R1? represents alkylene and Di represents a quaternary ammonium group), and A and B represent a polymethylene group, which represents Fi2
containing from 20 to 20 carbon atoms and may be straight-chained or branched and saturated or unsaturated, with one or more aromatic rings or one or more aromatic rings in the main chain. -CH2-Y-CH, - represents alkyl, and R
or ^ and R9 and R11 together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached form a piperazine ring, and h anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. and 1 is between 1,000 and 100,000, similar to the molecular weight.]

■ The vinylpyrrolidone compound represented by the following formula (4)? [wherein df is between 120 and 99 mol% and preferably Fi40
and is between 1 and 80 mol% and preferably between 5 and 40 mol%, s' represents 0 to 50 mol%, and d + e + f =
100 and p R2 represents H or CH;
y' represents 0 or 1; R-total 1 is 10H, -CH0H
-CH2- or and RR3FiCH3 or c! H
, shows; z-c11Br, r, 1/28
04% H8O4 and CH35o3; and M is a monomeric unit resulting from heteropolymerization using the selected copolymerizable vinyl monomer].

this? Zimmers can be made according to the method described in French Patent No. 2,077,143, which is incorporated herein by reference.

Preferred copolymers are about 100,000 and 1.000
,000 and has a molecular weight of between 1,000 and
AF) Cor? ration” Kara “Gafffort 734”
and [commercially available under the name Gafffort 755J.

■ Is it expressed by the following equation (5)? Lyrizon: (where g is 2
35) Cationicity of component (B) in the present invention? The average molecular weight of the rimmer is preferably 2,000,000 to 1,000,000, particularly 3,000,000 to 500,000, and these cationic ? 0.01 to 30 each of one or two or more types of remers
．． It is preferable to mix 0%, especially 0.1 to 10.0%.

Among the components (C) used in the heating hair treatment agent of the present invention, diethylene glycol monoalkyl ethers represented by the general formula (4) include diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol ethyl ether, zoethylene glycol derovyl ether, Examples include zoethylene glycol butyl ether and hyzoethylene glycol pentyl ether, and among these, diethylene glycol ethyl ether, zoethylene glycol derovyl ether, and zoethylene glycol butyl ether are preferred. These diethylene glycol alkyl ethers are preferably blended in the heating hair treatment composition of the present invention in an amount of 0.1 to 50%, particularly 5 to 30%.

In addition, the aromatic alcohol in component (C) is 1
Phenylmonoalkyl alcohols represented by the following general formula (I) (wherein h represents a number from 1 to 5) are preferred, and among them, pencil alcohol in which 11=4 is particularly preferred. The aromatic alcohol is preferably blended in the heating hair treatment composition of the present invention in an amount of 0.1 to 50%, particularly 2 to 20%.

In the present invention, the diethylene glycol alkyl nitrate aromatic alcohol of component (C) can be used alone or in combination.

The heating type hair treatment agent of the present invention is preferably used by adjusting the pH to 7 to 9 using an inorganic alkali agent or an organic alkali agent alone or in combination of two or more, and furthermore, the following buffer solution may be used. desirable.

Examples of buffering agents include citric acid/sodium chloride/disodium hydrogen phosphate, hydrochloric acid/sodium valpital/sodium acetate, hydrochloric acid or maleic acid/trishydroxyaminemethane, potassium dihydrogen phosphate or sodium phosphate/dipotassium hydrogen phosphate, or Sodium, hydrochloric acid or potassium dihydrogen phosphate or sodium tetraborate, potassium or sodium dihydrogen phosphate/sodium or potassium hydroxide, hydrochloric acid/colicin, boric acid/sodium carbonate or sodium tetraborate, hydrochloric acid/aminomethyl Delononzool, glycine/sodium or potassium hydroxide, boric acid/sodium hydroxide, hydrochloric acid/sodium dimethylglycine, sodium bicarbonate/sodium carbonate, sodium tetraborate/sodium hydroxide, sodium bicarbonate/sodium hydroxide or Examples include water-soluble ammonium salt/ammonia combinations. Among these, the combination of water-soluble ammonium salts/ammonia, water-soluble ammonium salts/basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, A combination of these is preferred, and as the water-soluble ammonium salt, hydrochloride, carbonate, and bicarbonate are preferred.

When used in combination with these buffers Fi, e.g. water-soluble ammonium salts/ammonia, the amount of water-soluble ammonium salts, e.g. ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate or ammonium chloride in the treatment agent of the invention is from 0.05 to 10
%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0%, and 8.0 to 10.5 Vc with pat-ammonia, arginine, lysine, etc.
It is used in methods such as v4 adjustment.

Furthermore, these buffering agents can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

Furthermore, other conventionally known ingredients can be added to the heating hair treatment agent of the present invention within a range that does not impede the effects of the present invention. Examples of other components include higher alcohols, cationic and anionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.

Urea, silicone, aluminum stearate, aluminum compounds such as light bread, organic acids such as citric acid and malic acid, inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ethylenecyamine, mono-, sea- or triethanolamine, morpholine, arginine, lysine, etc. basic amino acid, ammonia.

Alkaline agents such as caustic soda, hair nourishing agents, sterilizing agents, coloring agents,
Examples include fragrances and the like.

The method for applying the heating hair treatment agent of the present invention is to first apply the treatment agent to the hair, and then wrap the hair around a heatable handy tie set device, or around a rod or color.

The application amount varies depending on conditions such as heating temperature, but is usually 1.
It is preferable that the per serving fi is 10 to 150 g/. Next, one hair is heated to 40 to 160°C. The heating temperature and time will vary depending on the degree of hair damage, the type of buffer, and the formulation of the treatment agent. For healthy hair that has not been treated with Q-Ma, hair dye, bleach, etc. Treatment at high temperatures is advantageous, but considering the damage to hair caused by heating, the
Temperatures between 160°C and 40°C and 80°C are preferred. Furthermore, during heating, it is effective to cover the hair with a cap and further humidify the hair to prevent moisture from evaporating from the hair, or to humidify the hair with a device such as a steamer. The lower the temperature, the longer the heating time is required, but for the same reason, the heating time is preferably 30 minutes or less, and preferably between 3 and 20 minutes. On the other hand, it is desirable to select milder treatment conditions for chemical treatments such as e-mail, hair dye, and bleach. If you want to form gentle waves, you can also use a hair dryer brush to create a regular finish after applying the treatment agent.

〔Effect of the invention〕

By using the heating type hair treatment agent of the present invention, it is possible to semi-permanently improve the feel of hair in a relatively low temperature and short time by simple operation, and furthermore, it is possible to apply semi-permanent waves. In addition, because it does not use high-concentration alkaline agents, reducing agents, or oxidizing agents, hair damage caused by elution of hair proteins can be reduced. It has the advantage that it can also solve problems.

〔Example〕

Next, the present invention will be explained with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples.

Example 1 A heating hair treatment agent having the composition shown in Table 1 was prepared, and the reducing agent concentration, wave forming effect, and degree of hair damage were evaluated by sensory evaluation. The results are also shown in the same table.

(I) Wave forming effect [Measurement method] Wavy degree and wave holding power measurement test; 10 healthy Japanese hairs of 15 (m) were used as one bundle, and a glass tube (diameter 10
mm), coated with 30μI of treatment solution, and
℃ for 10 minutes. After treatment, the hair bundle is removed from the glass tube after rinsing thoroughly with ion-exchanged water, and the hair becomes coiled. The length of the hair coil at this time was measured.

The wave degree was calculated using the following formula.

X: Total length of hair (I5cm) Y: Coil length of hair (B) [Macroscopic evaluation] Wave forming effect ○ Good Δ equivalent × Bad (2) Evaluation of hair damage degree by sensory evaluation (evaluation criteria) Comparison with untreated hair O Good Δ Equal X Bad (3) Evaluation of hair feel by sensory evaluation (evaluation criteria) Compared to untreated hair ◎ Good 1 drug: 7% cysteine, pH 9.0 (I
0 minutes, 30℃) Second agent: 4% sodium bromate, pH 7.0
(I5 minutes, 30°C) Table 2 shows the results of a pairwise comparison by 10 monitors (a dress with a length of about 20 cm!IL and a weight of 30F was used).

Table 2 Margin below Example 2 A heating hair treatment agent having the following compositions was prepared.

Formulation 1 λN-propyl-3-mercaptoalanine 1.5 (
%) C Ascorbic acid D Zoethylene glycol ethyl ether E Pencil alcohol? [stearyltrimethylammonium Gf robylene glycol H heavy carbon ammonium! Arginine J fragrance 0.5 8.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 3.0 Adjust pH to 9.0 ion exchange water to 0.2 Balance 100.0 Add A, B, C to ion exchange water replaced with nitrogen.

Ht-dissolved, GFCD@E,F,Je
Add the dissolved solution and finally adjust the pH with I to prepare.

Formulation 2 AN-ethyl-mercaptoalanine 1.0 (
%) B Ethylenecyaminetetraacetic acid disodium 0.5
0 Calcium chloride 1.0E Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether 10, O
F benzyl alcohol 2.0G
f-ropylene glycol 1+0Ht
Jf Stearyltrimethylammonium I Glycine J Monoethanolamine Fragrance L Ion-exchanged water Dissolve AD and I in nitrogen-substituted ion-exchanged water, and add E and F to G.

Add the dissolved solution and finally adjust the pH with J. Build.

Prescription 3 A Glutathione B Ethylenecyaminetetraacetic acid disodium C Calcium chloride 1.0 3.0 Adjusted to pH 8.5 0.2 Balance 1oo.

, B, C H, K prepared by adjusting the solution 0.5 (%) 0.5 0.2 E Pencil alcohol 4.0F
7' Robylene Glycol 2.0G
Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride 1.0H glycine 1.0 aergini 7
pH 8, OK adjustment J fragrance 0.2 and ion exchange water Para: /3100
．． 0 A, B, C in ion-exchanged water substituted with nitrogen.

Dissolve D and H, add a solution containing FICE, G, and J, and finally prepare and manufacture p)I.

that's all

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A compound represented by the following three components (A), (B), and (C) (A) General formula (I) ▲ There are mathematical formulas, chemical formulas, tables, etc. ▼ (I) (Formula (wherein, R_1 represents hydrogen or an acyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms) and glutathione (B) a cationic polymer (C) represented by the general formula (II) Compound R_2-OCH_2CH_2OCH_2CH_2OH(
II) (wherein R^2 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms) and/or an aromatic alcohol.