JPH04185749A - Dyed product of elastic commodity and its production - Google Patents
Dyed product of elastic commodity and its productionInfo
- Publication number
- JPH04185749A JPH04185749A JP30491590A JP30491590A JPH04185749A JP H04185749 A JPH04185749 A JP H04185749A JP 30491590 A JP30491590 A JP 30491590A JP 30491590 A JP30491590 A JP 30491590A JP H04185749 A JPH04185749 A JP H04185749A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- temperature
- dyeing
- yarn
- elastic
- elongation
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 8
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 47
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 229920001169 thermoplastic Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000004416 thermosoftening plastic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 230000002040 relaxant effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000009182 swimming Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 28
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 27
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 25
- 150000002009 diols Chemical class 0.000 description 20
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 20
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 19
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 18
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 14
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 12
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 10
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 8
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 8
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 7
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 7
- BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCC(O)=O BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 6
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000004970 Chain extender Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 5
- 238000002074 melt spinning Methods 0.000 description 5
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 5
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 5
- AZQWKYJCGOJGHM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4-benzoquinone Chemical compound O=C1C=CC(=O)C=C1 AZQWKYJCGOJGHM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 125000005442 diisocyanate group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 4
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 4
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 4
- 125000001434 methanylylidene group Chemical group [H]C#[*] 0.000 description 4
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 3
- 125000000962 organic group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 229920000515 polycarbonate Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000004417 polycarbonate Substances 0.000 description 3
- SDQROPCSKIYYAV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methyloctane-1,8-diol Chemical compound OCC(C)CCCCCCO SDQROPCSKIYYAV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorine atom Chemical compound [Cl] ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 239000004433 Thermoplastic polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 2
- WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,4-diol Chemical compound OCCCCO WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000000460 chlorine Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052801 chlorine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 2
- TVIDDXQYHWJXFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O TVIDDXQYHWJXFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000000578 dry spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 210000004177 elastic tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 239000012948 isocyanate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000002513 isocyanates Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- BDAGIHXWWSANSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N methanoic acid Natural products OC=O BDAGIHXWWSANSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000008188 pellet Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000379 polymerizing effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000011946 reduction process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920002803 thermoplastic polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000013585 weight reducing agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- ALVZNPYWJMLXKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,9-Nonanediol Chemical compound OCCCCCCCCCO ALVZNPYWJMLXKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OSWFIVFLDKOXQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-(3-methoxyphenyl)aniline Chemical compound COC1=CC=CC(C=2C=CC(N)=CC=2)=C1 OSWFIVFLDKOXQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- USFZMSVCRYTOJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonium acetate Chemical compound N.CC(O)=O USFZMSVCRYTOJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005695 Ammonium acetate Substances 0.000 description 1
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Carbonate Chemical compound [O-]C([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002292 Nylon 6 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007605 air drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000001931 aliphatic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 235000019257 ammonium acetate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940043376 ammonium acetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- BFNBIHQBYMNNAN-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonium sulfate Chemical compound N.N.OS(O)(=O)=O BFNBIHQBYMNNAN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052921 ammonium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000011130 ammonium sulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002216 antistatic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004760 aramid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003235 aromatic polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000004429 atom Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000033228 biological regulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000000484 butyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000006227 byproduct Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- INSRQEMEVAMETL-UHFFFAOYSA-N decane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(O)O INSRQEMEVAMETL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000002950 deficient Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000001991 dicarboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 1
- GRWZHXKQBITJKP-UHFFFAOYSA-L dithionite(2-) Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)S([O-])=O GRWZHXKQBITJKP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001971 elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000806 elastomer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 239000005038 ethylene vinyl acetate Substances 0.000 description 1
- QFXZANXYUCUTQH-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethynol Chemical compound OC#C QFXZANXYUCUTQH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019253 formic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000009477 glass transition Effects 0.000 description 1
- XXMIOPMDWAUFGU-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,6-diol Chemical compound OCCCCCCO XXMIOPMDWAUFGU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 1
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000691 measurement method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000000325 methylidene group Chemical group [H]C([H])=* 0.000 description 1
- 239000002362 mulch Substances 0.000 description 1
- OEIJHBUUFURJLI-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,8-diol Chemical compound OCCCCCCCCO OEIJHBUUFURJLI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003002 pH adjusting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005191 phase separation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001707 polybutylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000098 polyolefin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000001436 propyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 230000002441 reversible effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000017550 sodium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002166 wet spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000004383 yellowing Methods 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
(産業上の利用分野)
本発明は伸縮性製品染め製品およびその製造法に関する
。DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Field of Application) The present invention relates to a stretch dyed product and a method for producing the same.
(従来の技術)
縫製後に染色を行う製品染めは、不良在庫の軽減や多様
化する消費者ニーズに対応する多品種、小ロット、短サ
イクル製造法に適した生産システムとして近年特に注目
されている。(Conventional technology) Product dyeing, in which garments are dyed after sewing, has attracted particular attention in recent years as a production system suitable for high-mix, small-lot, and short-cycle manufacturing methods that reduce defective inventory and meet diversifying consumer needs. .
現在製品染めで使用されている素材としては、綿やウー
ル100%といった低温染色する素材ばかりでなく、ポ
リエステル100%の様な高温染色が必要な素材まで巾
広く見られる。The materials currently used for product dyeing include not only materials that can be dyed at low temperatures, such as 100% cotton and wool, but also materials that require high temperature dyeing, such as 100% polyester.
(発明が解決しようとする課題)
これらの製品染ぬで最も留意すべき点は、シワやシワに
起因する条斑あるいは寸法安定性である。(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) When dyeing these products, the most important point is wrinkles, streaks caused by wrinkles, or dimensional stability.
この点高温染色よりは低温染色が有利であり、天然繊維
よりはセット性を有する熱可塑性繊維が有利である。In this respect, low-temperature dyeing is more advantageous than high-temperature dyeing, and thermoplastic fibers with setting properties are more advantageous than natural fibers.
一方水着等伸縮性製品の使用は、レジャー施設の充実や
余暇時間の拡大に伴って成長しつづけている。しかしな
がらこれら製品は製品染めによって生産されていないの
が現状である。これは伸縮性布帛は染色時の動きが大き
いこと、すなわちセ゛ノ輻・に乏しくシワや条斑が発生
しやすいためであり、又寸法安定性に欠けるためである
。On the other hand, the use of stretchable products such as swimsuits continues to grow with the expansion of leisure facilities and the expansion of leisure time. However, the current situation is that these products are not produced by product dyeing. This is because stretchable fabrics undergo a large amount of movement during dyeing, that is, they lack radiance and are prone to wrinkles and streaks, and also lack dimensional stability.
本発明者らは上記の現状に鑑み鋭意検討した結果、製品
染め染色時の寸法安定性を確保する方法を見出だし、初
めて伸縮性製品染めを可能とした。As a result of intensive studies in view of the above-mentioned current situation, the present inventors discovered a method for ensuring dimensional stability during product dyeing, and made it possible to dye stretchable products for the first time.
(課題を遠戚するための手段)
すなわち本発明は強度が0..7g/dr以上の弾性糸
と熱可塑性繊維からなる伸縮性製品染め製品である。こ
の伸縮性製品染め製品は強度が1g/dr以上でかつ下
記(1)、(II)式を満足する弾性糸と熱可塑性繊維
からなる下記(n[)式を満足する布帛を、十分にリラ
ックス後30%以上伸長することなく下記(■)式を満
足する温度で乾熱セット後縫製し、しかる後に染色する
ことを特徴とする伸縮性製品染め製品′の製造法によっ
て達唆士ることかてごる2R≧7800/T (
R耐魅水性強変保持率T 熱水処理温間<140°C)
・・・・・(1)HD+oot≧155℃ (HD 1
oa、: 1110%伸長時の切断乾熱温度)
・・・・・(II)s≧0.7 (S
:30%伸長し180℃×1分セット時のセット指数)
・・・・・(III)TD本(35/ S )≦T、
≦T o= (100/ S )・・・・・(IV)
TD:染色1度
T、二乾熱セ゛ソト温亥
まず本発明の製品染めに使用する伸縮性布帛は、伸縮糸
である弾性糸と表糸を構成する主素材からなるが、主素
材は熱可塑性繊維を使用する。(Means for distantly resolving the problem) In other words, the present invention has a strength of 0. .. It is a stretch dyed product made of elastic yarn of 7g/dr or more and thermoplastic fiber. This stretch dyed product has a strength of 1 g/dr or more and is made of elastic yarn and thermoplastic fibers that satisfy the following formulas (1) and (II). A method for producing stretch dyed products, which is characterized by dry heat setting and sewing at a temperature that satisfies the following formula (■) without elongating by more than 30%, and then dyeing. Tegol 2R≧7800/T (
R Water resistance strong change retention T Hot water treatment (warm <140°C)
・・・・・・(1) HD+oot≧155℃ (HD 1
oa: 11 Cutting dry heat temperature at 10% elongation)
...(II) s≧0.7 (S
: Set index when elongated by 30% and set at 180℃ for 1 minute)
...(III) TD book (35/S)≦T,
≦T o = (100/S)...(IV) TD: Dyeing 1 degree T, 2nd dry heat separator temperature First, the stretchable fabric used for product dyeing of the present invention is an elastic thread that is a stretchable thread. The main material is thermoplastic fiber.
熱可塑性繊維としては、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、
ポリブチレンテレフタレート等のポリエステル、6−ナ
イロン、6ローナイロン、芳香族ポリアミド等のポリア
ミド、ポリプロピレン等のポリオレフィン、エチレン酢
酸ビニル共重合体あるいはそのケン化物などからなる繊
維Ifhl’F9*%。Thermoplastic fibers include polyethylene terephthalate,
Ifhl'F9*% fibers made of polyester such as polybutylene terephthalate, polyamide such as 6-nylon, 6-row nylon, aromatic polyamide, polyolefin such as polypropylene, ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer or saponified product thereof, etc.
熱可塑性繊維を使用するのはすぐれたセット性を有する
ためである。これはセット性を確保するために重要であ
り、短繊維より:i長繊維がセット性の点で好ましい。Thermoplastic fibers are used because they have excellent setting properties. This is important for ensuring setting properties, and i-long fibers are preferable to short fibers in terms of setting properties.
特に本発明では染色することを前提としており強度、発
色等の点からナイロン、ポリエステルのマルチフィラメ
ントが特に適している。マルチであるのは粗硬な風合と
なるのを避けるためである。単糸デニールは用途等によ
り適宜選択して良い。これらナイロンやポリエステルの
ポリマー組成等については特に規定するものではない、
例えばポリエステルはポリエチレンテレフタレートから
なり公知の重合法で得られる物であり、添加剤として通
常使用される艶消し剤や制電剤等を含んでもよく、又本
発明の目的を損なわない転回において池の成分との共重
合体も用い得る。In particular, in the present invention, it is assumed that the material will be dyed, and multifilaments of nylon and polyester are particularly suitable from the viewpoint of strength, color development, etc. The reason for using mulch is to avoid a rough and hard texture. The single yarn denier may be selected as appropriate depending on the application. There are no particular regulations regarding the polymer composition of these nylons and polyesters.
For example, polyester is made of polyethylene terephthalate and is obtained by a known polymerization method, and may contain commonly used matting agents, antistatic agents, etc. as additives. Copolymers with components may also be used.
次に、本発明に使用する弾性糸はエラストマーからなる
ものを言う。現在使用されている弾性糸の多くはポリウ
レタン系であり、ポリウレタン弾性糸は乾式紡糸による
エーテル系と溶融紡糸によるエステル系に分けられる。Next, the elastic thread used in the present invention is made of an elastomer. Most of the elastic yarns currently used are polyurethane-based, and polyurethane elastic yarns are divided into ether-based yarns produced by dry spinning and ester-based yarns produced by melt-spinning.
エーテル系ポリウレタン弾性糸はセット性に乏しく、エ
ステル系ポリウレタン弾性糸は耐熱特に耐熱水性に乏し
い。本発明の目的を達成するたぬには、弾性糸目らが優
れたセット性を有することが必要であるがそれだけでは
十分ではない。伸縮性布帛として優れたセット性を有す
るためには主素材としてのナイロンやポリエステルマル
チフィラメントを一定以上の高温でセットすることが重
要であり、従って弾性糸もこの高温セットに耐え得る耐
熱性が同時に必要である。又縫製後に染色するが主素材
がポリエステルの場合は染め温度が120℃以上にもな
るが、これに耐え得る耐熱水性が必要なのは言うまでも
ない。Ether-based polyurethane elastic threads have poor setting properties, and ester-based polyurethane elastic threads have poor heat resistance, particularly hot water resistance. In order to achieve the object of the present invention, it is necessary that the elastic threads have excellent setting properties, but this alone is not sufficient. In order to have excellent setting properties as a stretchable fabric, it is important to set the main material, nylon or polyester multifilament, at a high temperature above a certain level. Therefore, the elastic yarn must also have the heat resistance to withstand this high temperature setting. is necessary. Furthermore, when the main material is polyester, the dyeing process is carried out after sewing, and the dyeing temperature can reach over 120°C, so it goes without saying that it must be resistant to hot water to withstand this temperature.
今までのポリウレタン弾性糸は、高温セット領域におい
て十分なセット性と耐熱・耐熱水を同時に満足するもの
はない。エーテル系ポリウレタン弾性糸は、セット性が
不十分であるし、エステル系ポリウレタン弾性糸は耐熱
性や耐熱水性に劣る。None of the polyurethane elastic yarns to date have sufficient setting properties in the high-temperature setting range, as well as heat resistance and hot water resistance. Ether-based polyurethane elastic threads have insufficient setting properties, and ester-based polyurethane elastic threads have poor heat resistance and hot water resistance.
本発明に使用する弾性糸および布帛は航述のごとく
R≧7800/T (R:itM水性強度保持率
(610)T IA水処理温度<140°C)・・・・
・(1)HD+oom、5155℃ (HD 1oa、
: 100%伸長時の切断軟粘温度) ・・
・・・(n)S≧0.7 (S:30%伸長
し180℃×I分セット時のセット指数) ・・・・・
(II[)の特性すなわち耐熱性・耐熱水性にすぐれた
特性を宵するが、具体的にはっぎのようにしてえられる
。As mentioned above, the elastic yarn and fabric used in the present invention are R≧7800/T (R: itM water strength retention rate (610) T IA water treatment temperature <140°C)...
・(1) HD+oom, 5155℃ (HD 1oa,
: Cutting soft viscosity temperature at 100% elongation)
...(n) S≧0.7 (S: Set index when elongated by 30% and set at 180℃ x I minute) ...
The properties of (II[), that is, excellent properties in heat resistance and hot water resistance, can be obtained specifically as shown in Fig.
弾性糸を構成するポリウレタンは高分子ジオール、有機
ジイソンアネート、鎖伸長剤を重合して得られる。本発
明に使用する高分子ジオールは分子量1000〜350
0の
■一般式
(式中R1はメチル分岐を1つ有する炭素数6〜10の
アルキレン基、R′は有機基である)で表される構造単
位を必須とするポリエステルジオールあるいは
■一般式
%式%
(式中R1はメチル分岐を1つ有する炭素数6〜lOの
アルキレン基である)
で表される構造単位を必須とするボリカーホネイトジオ
ールであり、かつ下記(X)、(y)の条件を満足する
必要がある。The polyurethane constituting the elastic thread is obtained by polymerizing a polymer diol, an organic diisonanate, and a chain extender. The polymer diol used in the present invention has a molecular weight of 1000 to 350.
0 ■General formula (in the formula, R1 is an alkylene group having one methyl branch and having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, R' is an organic group) or ■General formula % It is a polycarbonate diol which essentially has a structural unit represented by the formula % (in the formula, R1 is an alkylene group having 6 to 10 carbon atoms and one methyl branch), and the following (X), (y ) must satisfy the following conditions.
5≦全炭素数/(エステル結合数あるいはカーボネート
結合数)≦11 ・・・・・(X)0.01
5≦メチン基数/全炭素数≦013・・・・・(Y)
(ここで全炭素数とは高分子ジオール中のエステル結合
、カーボネート結合に含まれる炭素を除いた残りの炭素
の合計数)
本発明において用いられる高分子ジオールの分子量は1
000〜3500の範囲か好ましい。とくに好ましくは
、1500〜3000である。1000より小さいと弾
性回復性、耐熱性、耐熱水性、耐寒性が低下し、350
0より大きいと、弾性回復性、紡糸安定性、強度が低下
する。メチル分岐を1つ有する炭素数6〜lGのアルキ
レン基を与える化合物としては、例えば3−メチル−1
,5ベンタンジオール(MPD)および2−メチル−1
,8−オクタンジオール(MOD)が挙げられ、それら
と併用して使用できる他のアルキレン基を与える好適な
ジオールとして1.6−ヘキサンジオール、1,8−オ
クタンジオール、1.9−ノナンジオール、l、10−
デカンジオールなどの直鎖のジオールが挙げられるが、
なんらこれらに限定されるものではない。5≦Total carbon number/(Number of ester bonds or carbonate bonds)≦11 ・・・・・・(X)0.01
5≦Number of methine groups/Total number of carbon atoms≦013 (Y) (Here, the total number of carbon atoms is the total number of carbons remaining after excluding carbons contained in ester bonds and carbonate bonds in the polymer diol) The molecular weight of the polymer diol used in the present invention is 1
A range of 000 to 3500 is preferred. Particularly preferably, it is 1,500 to 3,000. If it is less than 1000, elastic recovery, heat resistance, hot water resistance, and cold resistance will decrease;
If it is larger than 0, elastic recovery, spinning stability, and strength will decrease. As a compound giving an alkylene group having one methyl branch and having a carbon number of 6 to 1G, for example, 3-methyl-1
, 5bentanediol (MPD) and 2-methyl-1
, 8-octanediol (MOD), and suitable diols that provide other alkylene groups that can be used in combination with them include 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, 1,9-nonanediol, l, 10-
Examples include linear diols such as decanediol,
It is not limited to these in any way.
メチル分岐を1つ有するジオールの使用により弾性回復
性、耐熱性とも良好となる。メチル分岐が2つ以上つい
たり、エチル基、プロピル基、ブチル基などの長い側鎖
のついたジオールを使用すると、耐熱性、弾性回復性、
耐寒性などの総合性能が低下する。ジオールの炭素数が
5より小さいと弾性回復性、耐熱性、耐熱水性などが低
下し、10より大きいと、弾性回復性、透明性が低下す
る。By using a diol having one methyl branch, both elastic recovery properties and heat resistance are improved. When diols with two or more methyl branches or long side chains such as ethyl, propyl, or butyl groups are used, heat resistance, elastic recovery,
Overall performance such as cold resistance deteriorates. If the number of carbon atoms in the diol is less than 5, the elastic recovery properties, heat resistance, hot water resistance, etc. will decrease, and if it is greater than 10, the elastic recovery properties and transparency will decrease.
高分子ジオールの有機基(R’)を与える化合物として
ジカルボン酸が挙げられ中でも炭素数が6〜j2の脂肪
族ジカルボン酸または芳香族ジカルボン酸が好ましい中
でもとくに脂肪酸ジカルボン酸が好ましい。Dicarboxylic acids are mentioned as compounds that provide the organic group (R') of the polymeric diol, and among them, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids or aromatic dicarboxylic acids having 6 to j2 carbon atoms are preferred, and fatty acid dicarboxylic acids are particularly preferred.
更に、本発明の高分子ジオールは前述の(X)、(Y)
式で表されるような蜆制を満足させる必要か有る。(X
)式で全炭素数/(エステル結合数あるいはカーボネイ
ト結合数)が5より小さいと耐熱水性、耐寒性か低下し
、11より大きいと弾性回復性が低下する。好ましくは
6〜10であることが良い。(Y)式でメチン基数/全
炭素数が0.015より小さいと弾性回復性が低下し、
0.13より大きいと耐熱性、弾性回復性が低下する。Furthermore, the polymer diol of the present invention has the above-mentioned (X), (Y)
It is necessary to satisfy the constraints expressed by the formula. (X
) In the formula, if the total carbon number/(number of ester bonds or carbonate bonds) is less than 5, the hot water resistance and cold resistance will decrease, and if it is greater than 11, the elastic recovery will decrease. Preferably it is 6-10. In formula (Y), if the number of methine groups/total number of carbon atoms is less than 0.015, elastic recovery will decrease,
When it is larger than 0.13, heat resistance and elastic recovery properties decrease.
より好ましい範囲は、003〜0.10である。A more preferable range is 003 to 0.10.
本発明にいうメチン基とは、水素原子以外の3つの異な
る原子(同じ元素であっても良い)と結□
合したーCB−である。The methine group referred to in the present invention is -CB- bonded to three different atoms (which may be the same element) other than hydrogen atoms.
またポリカーポネイトノオールを製造する際に使用され
るカーボネイト化合物としては、ノアルキルカーボネイ
ト、アルキレンカーボネイトまたはジアリールカーホネ
イト等が好ましく用いられるか、本発明で使用されるポ
リカーボネイトジオールの製造法は特に限定されるもの
ではない。中でも特に−10℃といった低温においても
弾性回復性に優れたポリウレタン弾性糸が、ジオール成
分として3−メチル−1,5−ベンタンジオールを50
モル%以上含有するジオールを使用しジカルボン酸成分
としてアゼライン酸、セバシン酸、1,10−デカンジ
カルボン酸などのメチレン数が7〜10の脂肪族ジカル
ボン酸を使用することによって得られるポリエステルジ
オールを用いたポリウレタンから得られる。溶融紡糸法
で製造する場合総合性能上特に好ましくは、アゼライン
酸(AZ)、セバシン酸(SA)である。Further, as the carbonate compound used in producing polycarbonate diol, noalkyl carbonate, alkylene carbonate, diaryl carbonate, etc. are preferably used, or the method for producing polycarbonate diol used in the present invention is particularly It is not limited. Among them, the polyurethane elastic yarn, which has excellent elastic recovery even at low temperatures such as -10°C, contains 50% of 3-methyl-1,5-bentanediol as the diol component.
Using a polyester diol obtained by using a diol containing mol% or more and an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid having 7 to 10 methylenes such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 1,10-decanedicarboxylic acid as the dicarboxylic acid component. Obtained from polyurethane. When produced by melt spinning, azelaic acid (AZ) and sebacic acid (SA) are particularly preferred in terms of overall performance.
本発明に用いうるポリウレタンはこのようにして得られ
た高分子ジオール、分子量500以下の有機ジイソシア
ネートおよびイソシアネートと反応しうる水素原子を少
なくとも2個有する分子量400以下の鎖伸長剤を重合
して得られる。The polyurethane that can be used in the present invention is obtained by polymerizing the polymer diol thus obtained, an organic diisocyanate with a molecular weight of 500 or less, and a chain extender with a molecular weight of 400 or less and having at least two hydrogen atoms capable of reacting with the isocyanate. .
特に熱可塑性ポリウレタンから溶融紡糸法により弾性糸
を製造する場合、軌可塑性ポリウレタンの合成に使用さ
れる有機ノイソノア不一トに4.4゜−ノフェニルメタ
ンジイソノアネート(Iν1DI)、鎖伸長剤か1.4
−ブタンジオール(BD)および/ま1こは1.4−ビ
”ス(2−ヒドロキシエトキン)/\ンゼン(BHEB
)を選択することにより、耐熱性、弾性回復性、伸度に
優れた性能が得られる。In particular, when producing elastic yarn from thermoplastic polyurethane by melt spinning, 4.4°-nophenylmethane diisonoanate (Iv1DI) is added as a chain extender to the organic noisonoanate used in the synthesis of thermoplastic polyurethane. or 1.4
-butanediol (BD) and 1,4-bis(2-hydroxyethyne)/
), excellent performance in heat resistance, elastic recovery, and elongation can be obtained.
高分子ジオール(A)に対する有機ジイソシアネート(
B)の割合(B)/ (A)は、モル比で1.5〜4.
5か弾性回復性、耐熱性、耐寒性などの総合性能のてん
から優れている。Organic diisocyanate (
The ratio (B)/(A) of B) is 1.5 to 4.
5.It has excellent overall performance such as elastic recovery, heat resistance, and cold resistance.
更に高分子ジオール(A)、有機ジイソシアネート(B
)、鎖伸長剤(C)の組成比において、(B)/((A
)士(C))のモル比は0.9〜1,2の範囲、特に0
.95〜115の範囲が好ましい。この範囲とすると耐
熱性、弾性回復性、伸度に優れたポリウレタン弾性糸か
得られる。Furthermore, polymer diol (A), organic diisocyanate (B)
), the composition ratio of the chain extender (C) is (B)/((A
) and (C)) is in the range of 0.9 to 1.2, especially 0.
.. The range of 95 to 115 is preferred. In this range, a polyurethane elastic yarn with excellent heat resistance, elastic recovery, and elongation can be obtained.
なお、(B)/ ((A)士(C))のモル比について
は、ポリウレタン重合時、あるいは紡糸時に制御できる
溶融重合のばあい温度は特に制限されないが200℃以
上260℃以下か好ましい。Regarding the molar ratio of (B)/((A) and (C)), the temperature is not particularly limited in the case of polyurethane polymerization or melt polymerization that can be controlled during spinning, but it is preferably 200° C. or higher and 260° C. or lower.
本発明に使用のポリウレタンは実質的にa 高分子ジオ
ール分子の両末端の水酸基から2個の水素原子が除かれ
た形の2価の基。The polyurethane used in the present invention is essentially a divalent group in which two hydrogen atoms have been removed from the hydroxyl groups at both ends of a polymeric diol molecule.
b、有機ジイソシアネートに由来する一般式(式中R3
は2価の有機基を表す)で示される基;
C1低分子化合物(鎖伸長剤)分子のイソシアネートと
反応し得る2個の水素原子が除かれた形の2価の基:
の構造単位からなると考えられる。b, a general formula derived from an organic diisocyanate (in the formula R3
represents a divalent organic group); A divalent group in which two hydrogen atoms that can react with the isocyanate of the C1 low molecular compound (chain extender) molecule are removed: From the structural unit of It is considered to be.
この様にして得られるポリウレタンからポリウレタン弾
性糸を製造する方法としては、溶融紡糸法、乾式紡糸法
、湿式紡糸法などがあげられる。Examples of methods for producing polyurethane elastic yarn from the polyurethane obtained in this manner include melt spinning, dry spinning, and wet spinning.
溶融紡糸法のばあい巻き取った糸条を低湿下において、
ハードセグメントのガラス転移温度(Tg)に対し、±
20〜−50℃の範囲において熱処理し、ハードおよび
ソフトセグメントの相分離を十分に実施することが好ま
しい。In the case of the melt spinning method, the wound yarn is placed under low humidity,
With respect to the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the hard segment, ±
It is preferable to carry out the heat treatment in the range of 20 to -50°C to sufficiently perform phase separation of the hard and soft segments.
この様にして得られた弾性糸とマルチフィラメントを常
法により製編織して伸縮性布帛となすか、ストレッチメ
ンバーとしての弾性糸は、採糸として表面に出ない例え
ば裏糸として使用したり、あるいは表糸として使用する
マルチフィラメントで被覆した被覆糸として使用するこ
とは言うまでもないし、また組成を限定するものでもな
いが、伸縮性の点で弾性糸は5重量%以上の含有率が必
要であり、5重量%未満では緊迫力に欠ける。The elastic yarn and multifilament obtained in this way can be knitted and woven using a conventional method to make a stretchable fabric, or the elastic yarn as a stretch member can be used as a backing yarn that does not appear on the surface as a yarn. Alternatively, it goes without saying that it can be used as a covered yarn covered with a multifilament used as a face yarn, and there is no limitation on the composition, but from the point of view of stretchability, the content of elastic yarn must be 5% by weight or more. , if it is less than 5% by weight, it lacks tension.
本発明の伸縮性布帛の織組織としてはフィル、サテン等
があり、編み組織としては、パワーネット、メツンユサ
テン、パイル等(以上経編)リバーシブル天竺、スムー
ス、ベロア等(以上丸編)を挙げることができる。Weaving structures of the stretchable fabric of the present invention include fill, satin, etc., and knitting structures include power net, matsuyu satin, pile, etc. (warp knitting), reversible jersey, smooth, velor, etc. (circular knitting). I can do it.
このようにして得られた生機を十分にリラックスする。The gray fabric thus obtained is thoroughly relaxed.
本発明において十分にリラックスするとは、通常の精練
・リラックス工程において生機をフリーボイル(98℃
×5分)した時の密度の50%以上の密度(ウエール、
コース共)とすることを言う。このリラックス条件を外
れるとしわか入り好ましくない。次いで30%以上伸長
することなくT D+ (35/ 5 )≦T2≦TD
→(10(1/ S )・・・・・(IV)
TD:染色温度
T、乾熱セット温度
を満足する温度で乾熱セット後縫製し染色する。In the present invention, sufficiently relaxing refers to free boiling (98°C) of gray fabric in the normal scouring and relaxing process.
x 5 minutes) with a density of 50% or more of the density (Wale,
course). If this relaxing condition is exceeded, wrinkles will occur, which is not desirable. Then TD+ (35/5)≦T2≦TD without elongating more than 30%
→(10(1/S)...(IV) TD: Sew and dye after dry heat setting at a temperature that satisfies dyeing temperature T and dry heat set temperature.
これらのいずれも染色時の収縮率を小さくするために重
要である。All of these are important for reducing the shrinkage rate during dyeing.
伸縮性布帛の染色時の収縮率は生地のもつセット性、乾
熱セット条件、セット時の伸長率に大きく左右される。The shrinkage rate of stretchable fabrics during dyeing is greatly influenced by the fabric's setting properties, dry heat setting conditions, and elongation rate during setting.
しかしながら本発明の条件をすべて満足させる時驚くべ
きことに、縫製後の染色において通常ポリエステルを染
色する120〜b30分の条件下でもシワや条斑はほと
んど発生しない。これら染色における収縮率は経緯とも
に10%以下であった。However, when all the conditions of the present invention are satisfied, it is surprising that almost no wrinkles or streaks occur even under the conditions of 120 to 30 minutes under which polyester is normally dyed after sewing. The shrinkage rates in these dyeings were 10% or less in both the weld and the weave.
一方HDI0゜%が155℃未満では耐熱性が低く 1
80では115℃以上の染色で著しく伸縮性かおちる。On the other hand, when HDI0% is less than 155℃, heat resistance is low. 1
At 80°C, the elasticity deteriorates significantly when dyeing at 115°C or higher.
又セット時の伸長が30%を越えるとシワ発生を止める
ことができなかった。セット率は80%以上にすること
が好ましい。それ未満になると染色時O収縮が大きくな
り、しわか入りやすい。Furthermore, if the elongation during setting exceeded 30%, it was not possible to prevent wrinkles from forming. It is preferable that the set rate is 80% or more. If it is less than that, the O shrinkage during dyeing becomes large and wrinkles are likely to occur.
縫製は常法に上り行うが、副資材(芯地、縫糸、裏地)
の内とくに縫糸は伸縮性のある加工糸か適している。セ
ットに際して機種を特に限定するものでは無いが、セッ
ターとして常用されるピン子ンター等が使用できる。こ
の時直火型加熱は生地の黄変が発生しやすいので避けた
方がよい。Sewing is done in the usual way, but auxiliary materials (interlining, sewing thread, lining) are used.
Among these, it is especially suitable for the sewing thread to be made of stretchable thread. There are no particular restrictions on the model for setting, but a commonly used setter, such as a pin printer, can be used. At this time, it is best to avoid direct heating as this can easily cause yellowing of the dough.
一方本発明は染色して使用することが前提にしており染
色ケンロー度が悪いと使用できないのてど染着しないが
、ポリエステルを主素材とし分散染料で染色する場合は
ポリウレタン弾性糸が!I染されるので特にケンロー度
に注意を要する。分散染料としてはアゾ系とキノン系が
ある。On the other hand, the present invention is based on the premise that it is to be used after dyeing, and if the dyeing degree is poor, it cannot be used and cannot be dyed. However, if polyester is the main material and it is dyed with disperse dye, polyurethane elastic thread is used! Since it is dyed with I, special attention must be paid to the degree of Kenro. There are two types of disperse dyes: azo and quinone.
製品染めは反染めに比して生地にかかる張力が低く(は
とんどフリー)弾性糸の損傷が少ない。Compared to anti-dyeing, product dyeing puts less tension on the fabric (almost free) and causes less damage to the elastic threads.
本発明では特に高温高圧染色でも反染めではほとんど不
可能な9.7g/drの強度が保持でき、従って緊締力
が大きくなる等の伸縮製品としてのメリットを有す。In particular, the present invention can maintain a strength of 9.7 g/dr, which is almost impossible with anti-dyeing, even during high-temperature, high-pressure dyeing, and therefore has advantages as a stretchable product, such as increased tightening force.
なお本発明の方法で染色時の収縮を乾熱セットで押さえ
ることが1つのポイントとなるため本発明の加工工程は
生機−精練・リラックス−プレセット−縫製−染色−仕
上げ
が基本である。特に表素材としてポリエステルマルチフ
ィラメントを使用する場合は、減量加工工程を付与する
ことが風合改良の点で好ましい。減量加工工程はプレセ
ットの前後どちらでも良いがデイメンジョンのコントロ
ールのしやすさからプレセット前に実施することが望ま
しい。One of the key points in the method of the present invention is to suppress shrinkage during dyeing by dry heat setting, so the processing steps of the present invention are basically greige - scouring/relaxation - presetting - sewing - dyeing - finishing. Particularly when polyester multifilament is used as a surface material, it is preferable to apply a weight reduction process to improve the texture. The weight reduction process may be performed either before or after presetting, but it is preferable to perform it before presetting for ease of dimension control.
(発明の効果)
本発明の製品染め製造法は、伸縮性製品染め製品を初め
て可能とした。また本発明による伸縮性製品染め製品は
一般染色ケンロー度に優れ、緊締力にも優れるため水着
への利用はもとよりスポーツ、カジュアル、フアンデー
シヨン、スキー等の衣料分野あるいは非衣料分野−\も
十分適用が可能である。特にポリウレタン弾性糸とポリ
エステルマルチフィラメントを身生地とする伸縮性製品
染製品は全く新規である。(Effects of the Invention) The product dyeing manufacturing method of the present invention makes it possible for the first time to produce a stretchable product dyed product. In addition, the stretch dyed product of the present invention has excellent general dyeing strength and tightening strength, so it can be used not only for swimwear, but also for sports, casual, foundation, ski, and other clothing fields, as well as non-clothing fields. Applicable. In particular, stretch dyed products made of polyurethane elastic yarn and polyester multifilament are completely new.
以下実施例によりさらに本発明を説明する。なお本発明
で採用した測定法は次の通りである。The present invention will be further explained below with reference to Examples. The measurement method adopted in the present invention is as follows.
(HD、6゜ち)
弾性糸を100%伸長したまま乾熱処理層に投入し10
0℃から5℃/1分で昇温し断糸した温度を測定する。(HD, 6°) The elastic yarn was put into the dry heat treatment layer while being 100% stretched.
The temperature is increased from 0°C to 5°C/1 minute and the temperature at which the yarn breaks is measured.
(収縮率の測定)
縫製後の試料に20c+n間隔で印をし、染色後?こ即
問を測定しくQl)算出する。(Measurement of shrinkage rate) Mark the sample after sewing at intervals of 20c+n, and check the size after dyeing. Calculate this question directly.
tυ
(耐熱水性強度保持率)
弾性繊維を該繊維2〜5倍のデニールを有するポリエス
テル繊維と併せてfti編(丸編)地とし、95〜98
℃の熱水中でリラックス処理を10分間行い、二〇編地
を風乾後、プレセット(180℃×I分、熱風)し、所
定の温度(120〜135℃のいずれかの温度)の熱水
で、加圧下、60分間分散染料染色条件下で染色し1こ
のち、風乾し、編地を解除し、弾性繊維のみを取り出し
て、常法により処理前の筒編から解除した糸と処理後の
筒編を解除した糸の強度を測定し、保持率を求めたもの
である。tυ (Hot water resistance strength retention rate) Elastic fibers are combined with polyester fibers having a denier 2 to 5 times the fibers to form an fti knit (circular knit) fabric, 95 to 98
Relaxation treatment is performed in hot water at ℃ for 10 minutes, and after air-drying the 20 knitted fabrics, preset (180℃ x 1 minute, hot air) and heat to a predetermined temperature (any temperature between 120 and 135℃). The yarn is dyed with water under pressure for 60 minutes under disperse dye dyeing conditions, then air-dried, the knitted fabric is released, only the elastic fibers are taken out, and the threads released from the tube knitting prior to processing are treated using a conventional method. The strength of the yarn after the tube knitting was released was measured, and the retention rate was determined.
(緊締力の測定)
巾1 inX長さ10cmの試料を採取しインストロン
で80%伸長しくスピード 3CIIlZ分)、同スピ
ードでもどした時の50%伸度の応力を測定する。(Measurement of tightening force) A sample with a width of 1 inch and a length of 10 cm is taken, stretched to 80% using an Instron, and then returned at the same speed to measure the stress at 50% elongation.
(シワの測定) 肉眼により次の5段階評価した。(Measurement of wrinkles) The following 5-level evaluation was performed with the naked eye.
1級・シワ全く無し。1st grade, no wrinkles at all.
2級:気になるシワはとんど無し。Grade 2: There are almost no wrinkles to worry about.
3級・気になるノワ有り。3rd grade, there are some concerns.
4級1強いシワが見られる。Grade 4: Strong wrinkles are visible.
5級二強いシワが多い。Grade 5: There are many strong wrinkles.
10人で判定し平均値をとった。Judgments were made by 10 people and the average value was taken.
(生地のセット率の測定) プレセット前後の生地のデイメンジョンで算出する。(Measurement of fabric setting rate) Calculated based on the dimension of the fabric before and after presetting.
−r
(ただし、伸長が0%付近の場合、セット率−f/lて
求める。)
r:ブレセット前長さ(巾)
t:ブレセット設定長さ(巾)
f:プレセット後長さ(巾)
(生地のセット指数)
精練・リラックス後(98℃で5分のフリーボイル)の
試料を50cmX 50cm採取し、300OIX 3
0cmに印をつける。-r (However, if the elongation is around 0%, calculate the set rate by -f/l.) r: Length before bracing (width) t: Length when bracing is set (width) f: Length after presetting (Width) (Dough setting index) After scouring and relaxing (free-boiling for 5 minutes at 98°C), take a sample of 50cm x 50cm, 300OIX 3
Mark 0cm.
一方30cmX 39cmのピンを植え付けた木枠を用
意する。On the other hand, prepare a wooden frame with 30cm x 39cm pins planted in it.
2ウエイの場合(経、緯各々30%以上の伸度がある場
合)
緯セット指数(S、) :経を30cm固定のまま緯を
39CTlに伸長し木枠に固定し、乾熱180℃で1分
セットする。試料を木枠から外し25℃雰囲気中で1時
間冷却後緯の即問を測定する(Q。)経方向についても
同様に求める。経のセット指数をS、とする。In the case of 2-way (when there is an elongation of 30% or more in both warp and latitude) Latitude set index (S,): Extend the latitude to 39 CTl with the longitude fixed at 30 cm, fix it in a wooden frame, and dry heat at 180 ° C. Set for 1 minute. After removing the sample from the wooden frame and cooling it in an atmosphere of 25°C for 1 hour, measure the latitude (Q).The longitudinal direction is also determined in the same way. Let S be the set index of the sutra.
S≧0.70とはS1≧0.70かつS、≧0.70を
言い(R’)SI+S!
式ではS=□を用いる。S≧0.70 means S1≧0.70 and S≧0.70 (R') SI+S! In the formula, S=□ is used.
1ウエイの場合 2ウエイと同様に1方向について求める。In case of 1 way Calculate for one direction in the same way as for 2-way.
実施例I
MPDとA、 Zからなる全炭素数/エステル結合数が
6.93、メチン基数/全炭素数が0.0825で数平
均分子量が1985のポリエステルとBDとからなり3
0°Cに加熱された混合物と50℃に加熱溶融したMD
Iとをポリエステル/MDI/BDの使用モル比力(1
/3.15/2となる量で二軸スクリュウ押し出し機に
仕込み溶融重合をおこなった。生成したポリウレタン(
PU)をストランド状で水中へ連続的に押し出し、次い
でペレタイザーでベレットに成型した。このベレットを
80°CIO時間真空乾燥し、単軸押し出し機の紡糸機
で紡糸温度230℃、紡糸速度500m/分て紡糸(ス
トレート油剤使用)し40dr−2fのポリウレタン弾
性糸を得た。この糸は強度1.4g/dr、伸度530
%、20℃で弾性回復率98%、HD+ooa+が16
3℃で130℃でのRが85%であった。Example I A polyester consisting of MPD, A, and Z having a total carbon number/ester bond number of 6.93, a methine group number/total carbon number of 0.0825, and a number average molecular weight of 1985, and BD 3
Mixture heated to 0°C and MD heated and melted to 50°C
I and the molar specific strength used of polyester/MDI/BD (1
/3.15/2 was charged into a twin screw extruder and melt polymerization was performed. The generated polyurethane (
PU) was continuously extruded into water in the form of a strand, and then formed into a pellet using a pelletizer. This pellet was vacuum-dried for 80° CIO hours and spun using a single-screw extruder spinning machine at a spinning temperature of 230° C. and a spinning speed of 500 m/min (using a straight oil agent) to obtain a polyurethane elastic yarn of 40 dr-2 f. This thread has a strength of 1.4g/dr and an elongation of 530
%, elastic recovery rate 98% at 20°C, HD+ooa+ 16
R at 3°C and 130°C was 85%.
次いでこのポリウレタン弾性糸とポリエステルマルチフ
ィラメント延伸糸50cl−36fから経編地を編成し
製品染め用生地を作成した。条件は次の通りである。Next, a warp knitted fabric was knitted from this polyurethane elastic yarn and polyester multifilament drawn yarn 50cl-36f to create a fabric for product dyeing. The conditions are as follows.
整経ドラフト=2倍
編 WA二カールマイヤー社製
28ゲージトリコット
組 織:ハーフ
糸使い フロント:ポリエステル50d−36fバ ツ
り:ポリウレタン40c1
編み込み長、フロント 160cm/4Hコースバ ッ
り 82cm/480コース機上コース数:60コ
ース/in。Warp draft = double knitting 28 gauge tricot made by WA Nikalmeyer Co., Ltd. Weave: Half thread used Front: Polyester 50d-36f Batch: Polyurethane 40c1 Braid length, front 160cm/4H course back 82cm/480 course on machine Number of courses: 60 courses/in.
この生機のS、は0.82、S、は0.80であり、瞬
間弾性回復率(50%伸長、20℃)はタテ93%Xヨ
コ94%であった。The S of this gray fabric was 0.82 and S was 0.80, and the instantaneous elastic recovery rate (50% elongation, 20°C) was 93% vertically and 94% horizontally.
ついでこの生機を次の条件で精練およびプレセットした
。This gray fabric was then refined and preset under the following conditions.
精練リラックス=80℃×1分(連続リラクサー)プ
し セ ッ ト:185°C×1分(ピンテンター)幅
(緯)方向の伸長25%、セット率85%経方向の伸長
5%、セット率90%
次いでこの生地を水着用として裁断縫製(縫糸ポリエス
テル仮撚糸150d/2) L、、次の条件で染色仕上
げした。Scouring relax = 80℃ x 1 minute (continuous relaxer)
Setting: 185°C x 1 minute (pin tenter) 25% elongation in the width (weft) direction, 85% set rate, 5% elongation in the warp direction, 90% set rate Next, this fabric was cut and sewn as a swimwear (sewing thread) Polyester false twisted yarn 150d/2) L, dyed and finished under the following conditions.
染 色
染色機ニドラム染色機
染 料 : Sumikaron Red E
−RPD(キノン系住友化学社製)2,0%owf分散
助剤: Disper TL
(開成化学工業製) ・・・・・1g/ QPH調整
剤:硫酸アンモニウム
・・・・・1g/ 12
酢 酸 ・・・・・ 1.g/(:
浴 比 l 30
温 度:40℃から30分かけ130℃に昇温し、13
0℃でさらに30分維持した。Dyeing machine Nidram dyeing machine Dye: Sumikaron Red E
-RPD (quinone type manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 2.0% owf dispersion aid: Disper TL (manufactured by Kaisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)...1 g/QPH adjuster: Ammonium sulfate...1 g/12 Acetic acid ・... 1. g/(:
Bath ratio l 30 Temperature: Raise the temperature from 40°C to 130°C over 30 minutes,
It was maintained at 0°C for an additional 30 minutes.
還元洗浄:
ハイドロサルファイト・3g/Q
ソーダ灰 2g/(!
アミラジン(第−製薬製):1g/(!浴 比
・ 1 30
温 度:80℃×20分
この時染色時の収縮率は経収縮率は4%であり線収縮率
は6%であった。還元洗浄時はほとんど収縮はなかった
。Reduction cleaning: Hydrosulfite 3g/Q Soda ash 2g/(! Amirazine (Dai Pharmaceutical): 1g/(! Bath ratio
- 130 Temperature: 80°C x 20 minutes At this time, the shrinkage rate during dyeing was 4% for the transverse shrinkage rate and 6% for the linear shrinkage rate. There was almost no shrinkage during reduction cleaning.
仕 上 げニスチームアイロン
仕上げ密度=100コース/in
この製品染め製品の伸度は経130%、緯120%であ
り、50%伸長時の瞬間弾性回復率は軽92%、緯93
%であり(測定20℃)良好な伸縮性を示した。Finishing Nisteam Iron Finish Density = 100 courses/in The elongation of this dyed product is 130% warp and 120% weft, and the instantaneous elastic recovery rate at 50% elongation is light 92% and latitude 93.
% (measured at 20°C), indicating good elasticity.
また緊締力は経86g×緯78gであった。Further, the tightening force was 86 g in warp x 78 g in latitude.
一方染めおよびシワ状態を観察したがポリエステルとポ
リウレタンの色相差はほとんど無く染着していた。また
縫糸を抜き取った後の縫製部近傍も良く染色されており
身生地の中央部との色差はなかった。シワ発生はなく(
2級)カットソーによる水着と同じであった(ややツク
ラミは感じられた)
洗濯ケンロー度(J I S L−0844A2法)
および水ケンロー度(J I S L−0846B法
)は4〜5級と良好であり又耐光ケンロー度(JIS
L0842カーボンアーク第3露光法)は4〜5級で
あり良好な1光ケンロー性を示した。また耐塩素ケンロ
ー度(J I S L−0856強試験法)は4〜5
級であった。さらには0℃での瞬間弾性回復率(50%
伸長)も20℃での測定時と同じで有った。On the other hand, the state of dyeing and wrinkles was observed, and there was almost no difference in hue between polyester and polyurethane. The area near the sewn area after the sewing thread was removed was also well dyed, and there was no difference in color from the center of the fabric. No wrinkles (
Grade 2) It was the same as a cut-and-sew swimsuit (slightly wrinkled) Washing test (JIS L-0844A2 method)
The Kenro degree of water resistance (JIS L-0846B method) is good at grade 4 to 5, and the Kenro degree of light resistance (JIS L-0846B method) is good.
L0842 carbon arc third exposure method) was grade 4-5 and showed good one-light Kenro properties. In addition, the chlorine resistance (JIS L-0856 strong test method) is 4 to 5.
It was class. Furthermore, the instantaneous elastic recovery rate at 0℃ (50%
The elongation (elongation) was also the same as when measured at 20°C.
又製品を解舒し測定したポリウレタン弾性糸の強度は0
.83g/drであった。In addition, the strength of the polyurethane elastic yarn measured after unrolling the product was 0.
.. It was 83g/dr.
比較例1
縫製することなしに実施例1と全く同条件で編成・染色
し、密度を同じにするため160℃×1分セットした反
染による伸縮性布帛の緊締力は経74g×緯60gであ
り実施例1による製品の緊締力よりも低かった。Comparative Example 1 The tightening force of a stretchable fabric knitted and dyed under the same conditions as Example 1 without sewing, and set at 160°C for 1 minute to make the density the same, was 74g in warp x 60g in latitude. However, the tightening force was lower than that of the product according to Example 1.
また解舒後ポリウレタン弾性糸の強度は064g/dr
であった。In addition, the strength of the polyurethane elastic yarn after unwinding is 064g/dr.
Met.
比較例2
弾性糸として強度1.4g/ dr、 HD +ooh
□力月80℃で、120℃でのRが54%の市販のエー
テル系ポリウレタン弾性糸を用いる以外は実施例1と同
様に編成した。Comparative Example 2 Strength as elastic yarn: 1.4 g/dr, HD +ooh
□Knitting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a commercially available ether-based polyurethane elastic yarn having an R of 54% at 120°C was used at 80°C.
得られた生機のセット指数は3.=0.64、S、=0
.58であった。この生機をプレセットを200℃でセ
ット率80%とする以外実施例1と同様に前処理し、染
色した。The set index of the obtained gray fabric is 3. =0.64,S,=0
.. It was 58. This gray fabric was pretreated and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the presetting was performed at 200° C. and the setting rate was 80%.
染色時の収縮率は経8%、緯9%で、シワは少なかった
(3級)。しかし、解舒後の弾性糸の強度は0.40g
/drと低い値を示した。The shrinkage rate during dyeing was 8% in warp and 9% in latitude, and there were few wrinkles (grade 3). However, the strength of the elastic yarn after unraveling is 0.40g.
It showed a low value of /dr.
比較例3
実施例1においてプレセット温度を150℃(経セット
率51%、緯セット率50%、染色時の経収縮率18%
緯収縮率22%であった)とする以外は全く同条件で染
色し乙生地はシワの発生かつよ<(4級)、ま1こ条斑
か見られに。Comparative Example 3 In Example 1, the preset temperature was 150°C (warp setting rate 51%, weft set rate 50%, warp shrinkage rate during dyeing 18%).
The fabric was dyed under exactly the same conditions except that the weft shrinkage rate was 22%), and the fabric had some wrinkles (4th grade) and one streak was visible.
比較例4
実施例1において編成しf二生機を放縮および精練リラ
ックスすることなくプレセットした(経および緯の伸長
率0%)。このときのセット率は経70%緯92%であ
つ1こ。ついで実施例1と同条件で染色した。染色後の
生地はシワが強かった(5級)。Comparative Example 4 The f-2 greige fabric knitted in Example 1 was preset without shrinking or scouring and relaxing (warp and weft elongation rate 0%). The set rate at this time was 70% longitude and 92% latitude. Then, it was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The fabric after dyeing had strong wrinkles (grade 5).
比較例5
実施例1においてプレセット時の緯方向の伸長を50%
、縦方向の伸長を5%とした。この時のセット率は経8
2%緯70%でめった。ついで実施例1と同条件で染色
した。染色後の生地はシワが強かった(4級)。Comparative Example 5 In Example 1, the elongation in the latitudinal direction during presetting was 50%.
, the elongation in the longitudinal direction was 5%. The set rate at this time is 8
It happened at 2% latitude and 70%. Then, it was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The fabric after dyeing had strong wrinkles (grade 4).
実施例2
フロント糸をナイロン6のSod/11fとし、縫糸を
ナイロン加工し、プレセット、染色条件を次の条件とす
る以外は実施例1と同条件で編成、仕上げした製品はつ
ぎの通りであつTこ。Example 2 The front thread was nylon 6 Sod/11f, the sewing thread was processed with nylon, and the product was knitted and finished under the same conditions as Example 1 except that the presetting and dyeing conditions were as follows. T-ko.
精練リラックス260°CXI分(連続リラクヤー゛ブ
し セ ツ l−1190℃×1分(ピンテンター)
幅(緯)方向の伸長30%、セット率825%経方向の
伸長5%、セット率88%
(軽セット指数は0.8緯セツト指数は0,8)染 料
: Kayacyl Blue HRL (日本化薬社
製)・・・・・ 2% our
pH調整剤 酢酸アンモニウム
・・・・・ 3% o91f
ギ 酸 ・・・
・・ 3% ovf浴 比 ・ 1.30
温 度 30°Cから30分かけ95℃に昇温し、95
℃でさらに30分維持した。Scouring Relaxation 260°CXI minutes (Continuous Relaxation Set 1-1190°C x 1 minute (Pin tenter)
Elongation in width (weft) direction 30%, set rate 825% Elongation in warp direction 5%, set rate 88% (light set index is 0.8, weft set index is 0.8) Dye: Kayacyl Blue HRL (Japanese) (manufactured by Yakusha)...2% our pH adjuster Ammonium acetate...3% o91f Formic acid...
... 3% OVF bath ratio ・ 1.30 Temperature Raise the temperature from 30°C to 95°C over 30 minutes, and
It was maintained for an additional 30 minutes at °C.
染色後常法によりFTX処理した。After staining, FTX treatment was performed using a conventional method.
染色時の収縮率は経4%、ta4%でありシワ発生は無
かつ1こ(1級)。解舒したーポリウレタン弾性糸の強
度は0.80g/drであった。伸度は経130%x
’4110%であった。50%伸長時の瞬間弾性回復率
は経93%、緯93%であり(測定20℃)良好な伸縮
性を示した。緊締力はli2gX 75gであった。The shrinkage rate during dyeing was 4% warp and 4% ta, with no wrinkles and 1 wrinkle (grade 1). The strength of the unwound polyurethane elastic yarn was 0.80 g/dr. Elongation is warp 130%
It was 4110%. The instantaneous elastic recovery rate at 50% elongation was 93% in warp and 93% in latitude (measured at 20°C), indicating good elasticity. The tightening force was li2g×75g.
又ポリウレタン弾性糸はほとんど染着されておらず洗濯
ケンロー度(J I S L−0844A2法)およ
び水ケンロー度(J I S L0846B法)は4
〜5級と良好であり又耐光ケンロー度(JISL084
2カーボンアーク第3震光法)は4級であり、また耐塩
素ケンロー度(J I S L、−0856強試験法
)は4〜5級であつfニ。In addition, the polyurethane elastic yarn is hardly dyed and has a washing degree (JIS L-0844A2 method) and a water degree (JIS L0846B method) of 4.
It is good at grade 5 and has a light resistance of Kenro (JISL084).
2 carbon arc 3 seismic light method) is grade 4, and its chlorine resistance (JIS L, -0856 strong test method) is grade 4-5.
特許出願人 株式会社 り ラ しPatent applicant RiRashi Co., Ltd.
Claims (2)
からなる伸縮性製品染め製品。(1) A stretch dyed product made of elastic yarn and thermoplastic fiber with a strength of 0.7 g/dr or more.
)式を満足する弾性糸と熱可塑性繊維からなる下記(I
II)式を満足する布帛を、十分にリラックス後、30%
以上伸長することなく下記(IV)式を満足する温度で乾
熱セット後縫製し、しかる後に染色することを特徴とす
る伸縮性製品染め製品の製造法。 R≧7800/ T(R:耐熱水性強度保持率T:熱水
処理温度<140℃)・・・・・ ( I )HD_1_
0_0_%≧155℃(HD_1_0_0_%:100
%伸長時の切断乾熱温度)・・・・・(II) 5≧0.7(S:30%伸長し180℃×1分セット時
のセット指数)・・・・・(III)T_D+(35/S
)≦T_P≦T_D+(100/S)・・・・・(IV) T_D:染色温度 T_P:乾熱セット温度(2) The strength is 1 g/dr or more and the following (I), (II)
) The following (I
II) After fully relaxing the fabric that satisfies the formula, 30%
A method for producing a stretchable dyed product, which comprises dry-heat setting and sewing at a temperature that satisfies formula (IV) below without elongation, and then dyeing. R≧7800/T (R: hot water resistance strength retention rate T: hot water treatment temperature <140°C)... (I) HD_1_
0_0_%≧155℃ (HD_1_0_0_%: 100
% elongation) (II) 5≧0.7 (S: Set index when elongated by 30% and set at 180°C for 1 minute) (III) T_D+( 35/S
)≦T_P≦T_D+(100/S)...(IV) T_D: Dyeing temperature T_P: Dry heat set temperature
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP30491590A JP2856894B2 (en) | 1990-11-08 | 1990-11-08 | Stretch-dyed products and methods for producing them |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP30491590A JP2856894B2 (en) | 1990-11-08 | 1990-11-08 | Stretch-dyed products and methods for producing them |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JPH04185749A true JPH04185749A (en) | 1992-07-02 |
JP2856894B2 JP2856894B2 (en) | 1999-02-10 |
Family
ID=17938838
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP30491590A Expired - Fee Related JP2856894B2 (en) | 1990-11-08 | 1990-11-08 | Stretch-dyed products and methods for producing them |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JP2856894B2 (en) |
Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPH0849145A (en) * | 1994-08-05 | 1996-02-20 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Polyurethane-based elastic fiber-containing knitted fabric and production of its dyed material |
WO2001053593A1 (en) * | 2000-01-21 | 2001-07-26 | Komatsu Seiren Co., Ltd. | Production method for sewn product of woven/knitted fabric |
WO2002020895A1 (en) * | 2000-09-04 | 2002-03-14 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Method for boiling-off of blended fabric from polyamide fiber and polyurethane fiber, method for producing dyed blended fabric and dyed blended fabric |
-
1990
- 1990-11-08 JP JP30491590A patent/JP2856894B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPH0849145A (en) * | 1994-08-05 | 1996-02-20 | Toyobo Co Ltd | Polyurethane-based elastic fiber-containing knitted fabric and production of its dyed material |
WO2001053593A1 (en) * | 2000-01-21 | 2001-07-26 | Komatsu Seiren Co., Ltd. | Production method for sewn product of woven/knitted fabric |
WO2002020895A1 (en) * | 2000-09-04 | 2002-03-14 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Method for boiling-off of blended fabric from polyamide fiber and polyurethane fiber, method for producing dyed blended fabric and dyed blended fabric |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JP2856894B2 (en) | 1999-02-10 |
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