JP7034504B2 - clothing - Google Patents

Description

Patent Law Article 30 Paragraph 2 Applicable Reiwa Sold from April 13th to June 5th, 2nd year

The present invention relates to women's clothing with a cup covering the breast, such as a brassiere, camisole, tank top, etc.

For brassieres based on woven fabrics, for example, design the molds for the cup part, front part, front side part, and back belt part, select the woven fabric of the material suitable for each part, cut it according to the mold, and cut each woven fabric. Manufactured by suturing and attaching straps, underbelts, adjusters, hooks, etc. to this.

However, it has been pointed out that the brassiere as described above has a drawback that it feels bad on the skin because there are many stitched portions in which the woven fabrics are sewn together. Another problem is that after removing the brassiere, traces of sutured portions are likely to remain on the skin.

Therefore, instead of sewing a plurality of woven fabrics together, for example, clothing with a cup based on a knitted fabric that is continuously knitted by a circular knitting machine and is basically seamless in the circumferential direction has been proposed (Patent Documents 1 and 2). ..

For example, the top underwear 100 of Patent Document 1 is made of a circular knitted fabric, and as shown in FIG. 12 (a), the lining is continuously knitted by folding back from the lower end edge of the hem of the outer material, and a pair of underwear is formed at a position corresponding to the bust. A cup 101 having a double structure is provided.

Further, Patent Document 2 discloses a method for manufacturing a brassiere in which a dough by tubular knitting using a molding knitting machine is continuously produced, and then the tubular knitted fabric is cut open and an unnecessary fabric portion is cut off.

However, although the above-mentioned conventional women's clothing is based on knitted fabric, the following problems have not been solved.
First, as shown in FIG. 12B, the top underwear of Patent Document 1 is provided with a bag portion 102 by sewing the outer material and the lining of the peripheral edge of the cup, and a disk-shaped pad 103 is inserted into the bag portion 102. is doing. Therefore, the top underwear 100 of Patent Document 1 has a sewn portion 104 for forming the bag portion 102 at least in the lower half of the peripheral edge of the cup 101, and the sewn portion 104 causes a stiff feeling.

Further, in the brassiere of Patent Document 2, as an example, a cup corresponding portion is cut from a knitted fabric made of tubular knitting, and a cup cloth made of another fabric is sewn to the cut portion. In this case, the brassiere of Patent Document 2 has a sewn portion for sewing the cup cloth over the entire circumference of the peripheral edge of the cup, and the sewn portion makes the skin feel worse.

In general, "woven fabric" is a fabric manufactured by crossing two series of warp and weft yarns at right angles, while "knitted fabric" is a fabric manufactured by continuous stitching of loops (knitting rings). Compared to the woven fabric, the strength of the fabric itself is low, and if the threads constituting the knitted fabric are cut at even one place, the breakage easily spreads from the cut place.

Traditional women's clothing also has challenges related to the weaknesses of the knitted fabrics described above. That is, in Patent Document 1, a suture portion is present in at least the lower half of the peripheral edge of the cup, and in one example of Patent Document 2, a suture portion is present over the entire circumference of the peripheral edge of the cup. Since the breast moves due to the movement during wearing and a load is applied, the knitted fabric of the sutured portion is likely to be damaged.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-193302 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2003-129305

The problem to be solved by the present invention is that conventional women's clothing, even if it is based on knitted fabric, is sutured to form a bag for inserting a pad into at least the lower half of the periphery of the cup. In any case, a soft wearing feeling cannot be obtained because there is a portion or there is a sutured portion for sewing with the cup cloth over the entire circumference of the peripheral edge of the cup. Further, in the conventional women's clothing, the sutured portion is likely to be loaded while being worn, and the knitted fabric is likely to be damaged.

An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems, to provide a garment that provides a soft wearing feeling and does not impose a load on the knitted fabric and the sewn portion, and the configurations listed below are listed below. Is the main feature.

The first invention is
Women's clothing
A molded cup portion having a cup that can maintain a raised shape and covering the breast with the cup,
The main body, which consists of a knitted fabric that is continuously knitted by knitting with a knitting machine,
Equipped with
The knitted fabric of the main body portion has a cut region cut so as to follow the shape of the upper edge portion of the mold cup portion, and the upper edge portion and the cut region are sewn. ..

A second aspect of the present invention further comprises, in the first invention, a microtape covering the fabric edge of the upper edge portion and the fabric edge of the cut region, and the upper edge portion and the cut region are sewn together with the microtape. Has been done.

In the third invention, in the first or second invention, the side edge portion of the mold cup portion is configured not to be sewn to the main body portion.

In the fourth aspect of the invention, in any one of the first to third aspects, the mold cup portion is formed on a pair of cups, a front portion formed between the cups, and an armpit of each cup. The front portion has a lower armpit, and the front portion has a structure in which the elasticity is lower than that of the lower armpit.

Here, in the present specification, the upward / downward direction is based on the posture when the garment of the present invention is worn by the wearing person in a standing position, and the head side of the wearer is upward. Further, in the present specification, it goes without saying that "clothing for women" includes clothing for people whose body gender at birth is female, but the gender of the body at birth is male. It also includes clothing developed for LGBT people who wear women's clothing.

In the present invention, a molded cup portion having a cup capable of maintaining a raised shape and covering the breast with this cup is used. Then, a cut region cut so as to follow the shape of the upper edge portion of the mold cup portion is formed in the main body portion composed of the knitted fabric continuously knitted by the tubular knitting machine, and the mold cup is formed. The upper edge of the part is sewn to the cut area of the main body and attached.

Therefore, in the present invention, there is no sutured portion extending at least the lower half or the entire circumference of the peripheral edge of the cup, which has caused a feeling of stiffness in women's clothing based on a conventional knitted fabric. According to the novel configuration of the present invention, the cut region of the main body portion composed of the upper edge portion of the mold cup portion having the cup wrapping the breast and the knitted fabric is sewn, so that the skin feel is improved.

Further, the portion where the mold cup portion and the main body portion are sewn is the upper edge portions of the respective members, and even if the wearer moves, the portion is not easily affected and the load is not easily applied. , The knitted fabric of the sewn part does not break.

It is a figure which shows the molding process of a mold cup part, (a) is the flat polyurethane foam before heat pressing, (b) is the figure which shows the polyurethane foam in the state where a cup is formed by heat pressing, and the planned cutting line. be. It is a front view of the mold cup part. It is a figure which shows the manufacturing process (cylindrical knitted fabric continuously knitted by a molding knitting machine) of 1st Example, (a) is a front view, (b) is a back view. It is a figure which shows the manufacturing process of 1st Example (the state which the cylindrical knitted fabric was cut along the shape of the upper edge part of a mold cup part), (a) is a front view, (b) is a rear view. be. It is the figure which looked at the side which attached the mold cup part with the brassiere of 1st Example turned upside down. It is a front view of the brassiere of 1st Embodiment. It is a figure which shows the manufacturing process (cylindrical knitted fabric continuously knitted by a molding knitting machine) of 2nd Example, (a) is a front view, (b) is a back view. It is a figure which shows the manufacturing process of 2nd Example (the state which the cylindrical knitted fabric was cut along the shape of the upper edge part of a mold cup part), (a) is a front view, (b) is a rear view. be. It is the figure which looked at the side which attached the mold cup part with the brassiere of 2nd Example turned upside down. 9 is a partial cross-sectional view taken along the line AA'in FIG. It is a front view of the brassiere of 2nd Example. It is a figure which shows the conventional brassiere which inserts a pad into a bag part, (a) is a front view, (b) is a sectional view in line BB'.

Hereinafter, the best mode for carrying out the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. The following description of the embodiment is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, its application, and its use.

In this embodiment, the configuration of the present invention is applied to a brassiere. The main bodies 31, 51 of the brassieres 30 and 50 of the present embodiment use a circular knitting machine, which is a kind of molding knitting machine, and a knitted fabric continuously knitted by tubular knitting by the circular knitting machine is used. In general, molding knitting is a word that means knitting into the shape of a product, and "molding knitting machine" is a machine that has the functions of increasing, reducing, and transferring stitches for producing products by molding and knitting. It is a general term for.
In the following, before explaining each configuration of the brassiere 30 of the first embodiment and the brassiere 50 of the second embodiment, first, the mold cup portion 10 commonly used in both embodiments will be described.

[About the mold cup part]
The raw material of the mold cup portion 10 is a flat plate-shaped polyurethane foam 20 having a required thickness (FIG. 1 (a)). The polyurethane foam 20 is placed between male and female molds that match the shape of the breast. Then, when the male and female molds are closed and pressed, and the mold is opened after a lapse of a predetermined time, cups 11a and 11b are formed on the polyurethane foam 20 (FIG. 1 (b)). The cup 11 (11a, 11b) has a bowl shape with a raised center, and the raised shape can be maintained. Then, by cutting along the planned cutting line 21 and cutting off the unnecessary portion, a mold cup portion 10 having the left and right cups 11a and 11b is obtained (FIG. 2).

Reference numeral 12a indicates the upper edge of the mold cup portion 10 in this embodiment. The upper edge portion 12 of the mold cup portion 10 is a portion having a constant width downward from the upper edge 12a (for example, a range of several millimeters or a dozen millimeters downward from the upper edge 12a).

As a means for forming the cup 11 on the polyurethane foam 20, for example, hot press molding, vacuum forming, cold molding, and injection molding can be used, but in this embodiment, hot press molding was used. An example of the implementation conditions of the hot press is a pressure of 6.2 kg per polyurethane foam, a temperature of 190 degrees, and a time of 160 seconds.

It is desirable that the cup 11 has a full cup specification and has a shape that firmly wraps and stabilizes the entire breast. Further, the thickness of the cup 11 may be changed as necessary, for example, the thickness may be increased near the peripheral edge of the lower side of the cup.

As the polyurethane foam 20, it is desirable to use a flexible polyurethane foam having a high elasticity. The flexibility of the mold cup portion 10 is improved, and the adhesion with the breast is improved. Further, it is desirable that the front and back surfaces of the mold cup portion 10 be processed into a mesh shape. It absorbs sweat from the mesh part and easily releases heat, which improves air permeability and prevents stuffiness.

As shown in FIG. 2, in the mold cup portion 10 of the present embodiment, the left and right cups 11a and 11b are not separated and are continuous via the front portion 13, so that the left and right cups 11a and 11b are worn while being worn. It is possible to prevent the position of 11b from shifting.

Further, the mold cup portion 10 has a pair of cups 11a, 11b, a front portion 13 formed between the cups 11a, 11b, and an armpit portion 14 formed under the armpits of the cups 11a, 11b, respectively. However, it is preferable that the front portion 13 has lower elasticity than the armpit portion 14.

The reason why it is better to reduce the elasticity of the front part 13 is that the breast moves due to the movement while wearing, and in order to make the silhouette of the chest look beautiful, it is better not to open the cups 11a and 11b in the left-right direction as much as possible. Because. For example, by setting strong conditions for hot press molding, such as partially increasing the pressure or temperature of the hot press only for the front portion 13, the elasticity of the front portion 13 can be set lower than that of other parts.

[First Example]
1. 1. Main body The knitted fabric of the main body 31 of the brassiere 30 of the first embodiment is knitted by a circular knitting machine. A circular knitting machine is a knitting machine in which a certain number of knitting needles are implanted on the circumference of a cylindrical cylinder called a needle hook, and the knitting needles are given vertical movement while rotating the cylinder to form stitches. It is a generic term. There is also a circular knitting machine of the type in which the cylinder is fixed by rotating the device called a cam that gives vertical movement to the needle.

By programming the circular knitting machine in advance, it is possible to knit while switching the knitting structure in a desired layout. In the case of the brassiere 30, as shown in FIG. 3, the knitting structure of the portion used as the main body portion 31 is the rib knitting 32, and the knitting structure of the excised portion not used as the main body portion 31 is the flat knitting 33. Of the boundaries between the rib knitting 32 area and the flat knitting 33 area, the front boundary is set as the cut line 34a and the back boundary is set as the cut line 34b, and the tubular knitted fabric is formed along these cut lines 34a and 34b. Is cut over the entire circumference to obtain a knitted fabric of the main body portion 31 (FIG. 4).

Here, the important point in the present invention is that when programming the layout of the cut lines 34a and 34b for the circular knitting machine, the cut line 34a on the front side of the main body portion 31 to which the mold cup portion 10 is attached is the mold cup. It is to match the outline of the upper edge 12a of the portion 10. By doing so, the cut area 34 cut so as to follow the shape of the upper edge portion 12 of the mold cup portion 10 described above on the front side of the knitted fabric of the main body portion 31 after cutting. Can be provided. The cut region 34 is a region having a constant width downward from the cut line 34a on the front side (for example, a range of several millimeters or a dozen millimeters downward from the cut line 34a).

2. 2. Sewing of the main body and the mold cup portion As shown in FIG. 5, the mold cup portion 10 is sewn and attached to the back side of the knitted fabric on the front side of the main body portion 31. This sewing is performed by sewing the upper edge portion 12 of the mold cup portion 10 and the cut region 34 of the main body portion 31 with one or a plurality of sewing threads. In FIG. 5, the thick dotted line of reference numeral 35 indicates the sewing line of the upper edge portion 12 of the mold cup portion 10 and the cut region 34 of the main body portion 31.

In the brassiere 30, when the mold cup portion 10 is sewn to the main body portion 31, the lace 36 is sewn together to enhance the decorativeness. Further, a piping tape 15 is attached to the lower end of the mold cup portion 10 in advance before the mold cup portion 10 is sewn to the main body portion 31.

The strap 37 is a hanging string used to hang the brassiere 30 from the shoulder. The strap 37 is connected above the cups 11a and 11b, and is connected to the back side of the knitted fabric of the main body 31 beyond the wearer's shoulder. The strap 37 keeps the bust position high by pulling up the cups 11a and 11b from the ridge of the shoulder.

In the brassiere 30, the upper edge portion 12 of the mold cup portion 10 and the cut region 34 of the main body portion 31 are sewn together. The wearer's breast is wrapped in cups 11a and 11b of the molded cup portion 10 made of polyurethane foam, and there is no sewn portion on the lower half or the entire circumference of the cup, so that the skin feels good.

In addition, in the brassiere 30, even if the wearer moves and the breast moves, the sewn portion located on the upper side of the breast is less affected and the load is less likely to be applied. Therefore, the knitted fabric around the sewing line 35 of the main body 31 does not break.

Regarding the brassiere 30 of the first embodiment, apart from the sewing line 35 with the upper edge portion 12 of the mold cup portion 10, the second sewing line 38 at the side edge portion 16 of the mold cup portion 10 is also an auxiliary. Exists in. The reason is that the brassiere 30 of the first embodiment is entirely knitted with rib knitting 32 as shown in FIG. 6, and the fabric of the main body portion 31 stretches well, so that it is necessary to stabilize the attached mold cup portion 10. The upper and side edge portions 16 are also sewn as an auxiliary.

[Second Example]
Since the manufacturing method and the configuration of the brassiere 50 of the second embodiment are basically the same as those of the first embodiment, the following description will mainly explain the differences from the first embodiment.

1. 1. About the main body In the case of the brassiere 50, as shown in FIG. 7, the knitting structure of the area used as the main body 51 and the area not used are the same, and both are the tenjiku knitting 52 and 53. Then, of the boundaries of both regions, the boundary on the front side is set as the cut line 54a, the boundary on the back side is set as the cut line 54b, and the tubular knitted fabric is cut over the entire circumference along these cut lines 54a and 54b. A knitted fabric of the main body 51 is obtained (FIG. 8).

On the front side of the knitted fabric of the main body portion 51 after cutting, a point where a cut region 54 cut so as to follow the shape of the upper edge portion of the mold cup portion 10 exists, and the cut region 54 is provided. Therefore, the point that the shape of the cut line 54a that matches the outer line of the upper edge 12a of the mold cup portion 10 is programmed in advance in the circular knitting machine is the same as that of the first embodiment. Also in the second embodiment, the cut region 54 is a region having a constant width downward from the cut line 54a on the front side (for example, a range of several millimeters or a dozen millimeters downward from the cut line 54a).

2. 2. Sewing of the main body and the mold cup as shown in FIG. 9, the mold cup 10 is sewn and attached to the back side of the knitted fabric on the front side of the main body 51. This sewing is performed by sewing the upper edge portion 12 of the mold cup portion 10 and the cut region 54 of the main body portion 51 with one or a plurality of sewing threads. In FIG. 9, the thick dotted line of reference numeral 55 indicates the sewing line of the upper edge portion 12 of the mold cup portion 10 and the cut region 54 of the main body portion 51. A piping tape 15 is attached to the lower end and the side edge of the mold cup portion 10 in advance before the mold cup portion 10 is sewn to the main body portion 51.

In the brassiere 50, when the mold cup portion 10 is sewn to the main body portion 51, the microtape 56 is also sewn together to increase the strength of the sewn portion. As shown in FIG. 10, the microtape 55 is a tape that covers the entire area of the fabric edge of the upper edge portion 12 of the mold cup portion 10 and the fabric edge of the cut region 54 of the main body portion 51. When the upper edge portion 12 of the mold cup portion 10 and the cut area 54 of the main body portion 51 are sewn from the outside of the microtape 55 in the wrapped state to expose the cut end as it is cut. Compared with, the durability of the sewn part is improved.

The strap 57 is a hanging string used to hang the brassiere 50 from the shoulder. The strap 57 is continuous with the microtape 56 and is connected to the back side of the knitted fabric of the main body 51 beyond the wearer's shoulder. The strap 57 keeps the bust position high by pulling up the cups 11a and 11b from the ridge of the shoulder. The length of the strap 57 can be adjusted by the adjuster 59.

In the brassiere 50, the sewing line 55 in the cut region 54 is the only sewing line with the mold cup portion 10, and the side edge portion of the mold cup portion 10 is not sewn with the main body portion 51. The reason is that, as shown in FIG. 10, the brassiere 50 is entirely knitted with the Tenjiku knitting 52, and the fabric of the main body 51 does not stretch to the left, so even if only the sewing line 55 of the cut area 54 is used. This is because the attached mold cup portion 10 is sufficiently stable. That is, according to the configuration of the second embodiment, the auxiliary sewing line can be eliminated, and the garment having fewer sewing lines can be provided.

It goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to the above-mentioned embodiment, and the embodiment may be appropriately changed as long as it is within the scope of the technical idea described in each claim.

For example, in the above, an example of applying the present invention to a brassiere has been shown, but the present invention can be similarly applied to a camisole with a cup, a tank top with a cup, and the like.

10 Mold cup part 11 (11a, 11b) Cup 12 Upper edge part 12a Upper edge 13 Front part 14 Side lower part 16 Side edge part 30, 50 Brassiere 31, 51 Main body part 34, 54 Cut area 34a, 54a Cut line 35, 55 Sewing line 56 micro tape

Claims (1)

It ’s a way to make women ’s clothing.
A pair of left and right cups with full cup specifications that can maintain a raised shape that wraps the entire breast, the front part formed between these cups, and the armpits formed under the armpits of each cup are integrated. The mold cup part manufacturing process that prepares a continuous mold cup part in advance,
The main body knitting process, which consists of a tubular knitted fabric manufactured by a circular knitting machine and is continuous in the circumferential direction and has no sewing line sewn with other fabrics, and the main body knitting process.
A cutting step of cutting the knitted fabric of the main body portion so that the knitted fabric on the front side of the main body portion follows the shape of the upper edge portion of the mold cup portion, and providing a cut area in the main body portion.
The attachment of the mold cup portion to the main body portion includes a sewing step performed only by sewing the upper edge portion of the mold cup portion to the cut region of the main body portion.
In the mold cup portion manufacturing process, the cup, the front portion, and the armpit portion are formed by hot-pressing the polyurethane foam, and the front portion has a higher pressure or temperature than other parts when the hot press is formed. By setting, the elasticity of the front part is made lower than other parts,
In the sewing step, a microtape that covers the fabric edge of the upper edge portion and the fabric edge of the cut region is used, and the upper edge portion and the cut region are sewn together with the microtape with a plurality of sewing threads. How to make clothing.

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