JP5603058B2 - Fused blended yarn and method for producing woven or knitted fabric using the same - Google Patents
Fused blended yarn and method for producing woven or knitted fabric using the same Download PDFInfo
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Landscapes
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Description
本発明は、融着混繊糸並びにこれを用いて杢外観に富む織編物を得るための方法に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a fused blended yarn and a method for obtaining a woven or knitted fabric rich in a wrinkle appearance using the same.
染着性の異なる２種類の糸条を混繊した糸条を用いて、織編物に杢外観を表現する技術が古くから知られている。 A technique for expressing a wrinkle appearance on a woven or knitted fabric using a yarn in which two types of yarns having different dyeing properties are mixed has been known for a long time.
例えば、特許文献１に、サイドバイサイド型ポリエステル系複合繊維とポリアミド繊維との混繊糸が開示されている。同文献によれば、この混繊糸を用いることにより、織編物に杢外観と共に優れたストレッチ性を付与できると記載されている。また、特許文献２に、一方がシックアンドシンヤーンでかつ互いに染着性の異なる２種のポリエステル糸条を合わせた混繊糸が開示されている。同文献によれば、この混繊糸を用いることにより、織編物に杢外観と共に独特のスパナイズ感を付与できると記載されている。 For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a mixed yarn of a side-by-side type polyester composite fiber and a polyamide fiber. According to this document, it is described that by using this mixed fiber, excellent stretchability can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric together with the heel appearance. Patent Document 2 discloses a mixed yarn in which two polyester yarns, one of which is chic and thin yarn and having different dyeing properties, are combined. According to this document, by using this mixed fiber, it is described that a unique spanization feeling can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric together with the heel appearance.
以上の文献から明らかなように、織編物に対し杢外観と共に所定の質感、風合いなどを付与することが古くから行われている。この場合、構成糸の一部に特定の糸を使用すれば、所望の質感、風合いを織編物に与えることもできるので、非常に興味深いといえる。 As is clear from the above literature, it has been practiced for a long time to give a predetermined texture and texture to the woven or knitted fabric together with the appearance of the collar. In this case, if a specific yarn is used as a part of the constituent yarn, a desired texture and texture can be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric, which is very interesting.
いうまでもないが、杢外観や質感、風合いといったものは、織編物において表現されるものである。したがって、所定の糸条を採取しただけでは足りず、製織編工程を経ることが必要である。製織編工程には糸条の巻き取り、引き出しといった工程が多くあり、糸条は幾度となくガイドを通過する。したがって、その度に糸条は摩擦を受ける。そうすると、特許文献１、２記載の混繊糸のような場合、繊維同士が強く絡みあっている部位（混繊部）が解けて（開繊）してしまう。 Needless to say, the appearance, texture, and texture of the cocoon are expressed in the woven or knitted fabric. Therefore, it is not sufficient to collect a predetermined yarn, and it is necessary to go through a weaving and knitting process. In the weaving and knitting process, there are many processes such as winding and drawing out the yarn, and the yarn passes through the guide several times. Therefore, the yarn is subjected to friction each time. Then, in the case of the mixed yarn described in Patent Literatures 1 and 2, the portion (mixed portion) where the fibers are strongly entangled is unwound (opened).
混繊部が開繊すると、織編物に対し所望の杢外観のみならず、目的の質感、風合いも付与できなくなる。つまり、混繊状態が適正に維持されていれば、織編物はピッチの比較的短い杢外観を示すが、混繊部が開繊していると、杢外観はピッチの長い所謂流れ杢となり、織編物の商品価値が大幅に低下する。一方、織編物の質感、風合いは、混繊糸の全体構造に由来するところが大きいため、混繊状態が適正に維持されないのであれば、もはや織編物に所望の質感、風合いも与えることができなくなる。 When the mixed fiber portion is opened, not only a desired cocoon appearance but also a desired texture and texture cannot be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. In other words, if the mixed fiber state is properly maintained, the woven or knitted fabric exhibits a cocoon appearance with a relatively short pitch, but when the mixed fiber portion is opened, the cocoon appearance becomes a so-called flow cocoon with a long pitch, The commercial value of woven and knitted fabrics is greatly reduced. On the other hand, the texture and texture of the woven or knitted fabric is largely derived from the overall structure of the blended yarn, so that if the mixed fiber state is not properly maintained, the desired texture and texture can no longer be imparted to the woven or knitted fabric. .
このような点を改善するには、製織編工程における糸条の張力を適正に調整すれば、混繊糸の混繊状態を適正に維持できるものと考えられる。しかし、この手段を採用するには、張力管理に伴う新たな設備投資や張力調整に伴う新たな労力が伴い、工程を低コストで円滑に進める観点から、好ましいとはいえない。 In order to improve such a point, it is considered that the mixed state of the mixed yarn can be properly maintained by appropriately adjusting the tension of the yarn in the weaving and knitting process. However, adopting this means is not preferable from the viewpoint of smoothly proceeding the process at low cost because it involves new equipment investment accompanying tension management and new labor accompanying tension adjustment.
また、混繊状態をより強固なものとすれば、開繊が抑えられるとも考えられる。しかし、混繊を強くすればするほど、他の部位にも混繊の効果が波及し、繊維は密着傾向になるので、織編物はふくらみ感、ソフト感を失うことになる。つまり、繊維を密着させると織編物の中に空気を溜め込み難くなるので、結果、織編物のふくらみ感、ソフト感は失われる傾向にあり、風合いの観点から、同じく好ましいとはいえない。 Moreover, if the mixed fiber state is made stronger, it is considered that the fiber opening can be suppressed. However, the stronger the fiber mix, the more the effect of the fiber mix affects other parts, and the fibers tend to adhere, so the knitted or knitted fabric loses its swell and soft feeling. That is, when the fibers are brought into close contact with each other, it is difficult to trap air in the woven or knitted fabric, and as a result, the feeling of swelling and softness of the woven or knitted fabric tends to be lost, which is not preferable from the viewpoint of texture.
本発明は、上記のような従来技術の欠点を解消するものであり、製織編工程を通じて良好な混繊状態を維持することで、ナチュラル感に富む杢外観を織編物に与えうる新規な混繊糸を提供することを技術的な課題とするものである。 The present invention eliminates the drawbacks of the prior art as described above, and is a novel mixed fiber that can give a woven and knitted fabric a natural-looking wrinkle appearance by maintaining a good mixed fiber state throughout the weaving and knitting process. Providing yarn is a technical challenge.
本発明者らは、上記課題を解決するために鋭意研究の結果、融着成分を用いて糸条の混繊部を一体化させておけば、ガイドなどに糸条を通過させても混繊状態を良好に維持でき、これにより、織編物にナチュラル感に富む杢外観を与えることができることを見出し、本発明に到達した。 As a result of diligent research to solve the above problems, the inventors of the present invention have made it possible to integrate the mixed fiber portion of the yarn using a fusion component, even if the yarn is passed through a guide or the like. The present inventors have found that the state can be maintained satisfactorily, whereby the woven or knitted fabric can be given a natural-looking wrinkle appearance, and the present invention has been achieved.
すなわち、第一の発明は、単糸フィラメント数が異なる複数の繊維群から構成され、長手方向にインターレース混繊部を４０〜１００個／ｍ有する混繊糸であって、混繊部が融着成分を介して一体化していることを特徴とする融着混繊糸を要旨とするものである。 That is, the first invention is a mixed yarn composed of a plurality of fiber groups having different numbers of single yarn filaments and having 40 to 100 interlaced mixed fibers / m in the longitudinal direction, and the mixed fibers are fused. The gist of the present invention is a fused mixed yarn characterized by being integrated through components.
そして、第二の発明は、上記融着混繊糸を用いて製織編した後、これをアルカリ減量、染色することにより杢外観を発現させることを特徴とする織編物の製造方法を要旨とするものである。 The second aspect of the invention is a method for producing a knitted or knitted fabric characterized in that after weaving and knitting using the above-mentioned fused mixed yarn, the appearance of a cocoon is developed by reducing the amount of alkali and dyeing it. Is.
本発明によれば、混繊糸中の混繊部を強固に一体化させておくことにより、混繊糸のガイド通過に伴う摩擦から混繊部を守ることができ、混繊部の開繊を大幅に抑制することができる。これにより、本発明の混繊糸を用いることで、織編物にナチュラル感に富む杢外観を与えることができ、結果、織編物の商品価値を大いに高めることができる。 According to the present invention, the mixed fiber portion in the mixed yarn is firmly integrated, whereby the mixed fiber portion can be protected from the friction accompanying the passage of the mixed yarn through the guide, and the mixed fiber portion is opened. Can be greatly suppressed. Thereby, by using the mixed fiber of the present invention, it is possible to give the woven or knitted fabric a natural-looking wrinkle appearance, and as a result, the commercial value of the woven or knitted fabric can be greatly enhanced.
以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
本発明は、所謂インターレース混繊糸を対象とするものである。インターレース混繊糸中には、一般に混繊の強い部位（これを混繊部ということがある）と、弱い部位とが混在し、混繊の弱い部位では、製造条件にもよるが繊維同士は一般に開繊する傾向にある。本発明は、このようなインターレース混繊糸の特徴を利用したもので、複数の繊維群から混繊糸を構成し、これにより、混繊の弱い部位において各繊維群を繊維束に近い形態のまま存在させている。このとき、各繊維束の構造に違いがあると、織編物となしたとき、その部位を筋状に視認することができるようになる。本発明は、この点を利用し、各繊維群の単糸フィラメント数を異ならせることにより各繊維束に光沢差や色目差などを生じさせ、もって織編物へ杢外観を付与するのである。 The present invention is directed to so-called interlaced mixed yarn. In interlaced mixed yarn, there are generally mixed parts with strong fibers (sometimes called mixed fibers) and weak parts. In weakly mixed parts, fibers vary depending on the manufacturing conditions. Generally tends to open. The present invention utilizes the characteristics of such an interlaced mixed yarn, and constitutes a mixed yarn from a plurality of fiber groups, whereby each fiber group has a form close to a fiber bundle at a weakly mixed portion. Exist. At this time, if there is a difference in the structure of each fiber bundle, when it becomes a woven or knitted fabric, the part can be visually recognized in a streak shape. The present invention makes use of this point to produce a difference in gloss and color difference in each fiber bundle by varying the number of single yarn filaments in each fiber group, thereby imparting a wrinkle appearance to the woven or knitted fabric.
各繊維群の単糸フィラメント数としては、例えば２つの繊維群を使用する場合、両者のフィラメント数の比は、一方が他方の１．５倍以上となるのが好ましい。 As the number of single yarn filaments in each fiber group, for example, when two fiber groups are used, it is preferable that the ratio of the number of both filaments is 1.5 times the other.
本発明においては、各繊維群の組み合わせは自由に選択でき、繊維群数も複数でありさえすれば特に限定されない。すなわち、一般衣料向けに使用されている繊維の中から目的に応じて適宜選択すればよいのである。ただ、同一素材で互いの繊維群を構成するしてしまうと、織編物の色目によっては稀に杢外観を視認するのが難しくなることがあるため、好ましくは異なる繊維素材の組み合わせを選択する。 In the present invention, the combination of each fiber group can be freely selected, and there is no particular limitation as long as the number of fiber groups is plural. That is, it may be appropriately selected from fibers used for general clothing according to the purpose. However, if each group of fibers is made of the same material, depending on the color of the knitted or knitted fabric, it may be difficult to visually recognize the wrinkle appearance. Therefore, a combination of different fiber materials is preferably selected.
例えば、繊維群として２つの繊維群を使用する場合、好ましい素材の組み合わせとしては、ポリエステル／ナイロン、ポリエステル／レーヨン、ポリエステル／綿などがあげられる。特に、ポリエステル／レーヨンの組み合わせを採用すると、織編物に適度なドレープ感を与えることができるので好ましい。 For example, when two fiber groups are used as the fiber group, preferred material combinations include polyester / nylon, polyester / rayon, polyester / cotton, and the like. In particular, it is preferable to use a combination of polyester / rayon because a moderate drape feeling can be given to the woven or knitted fabric.
また、各繊維群の単糸繊度を互いに異なったものとすることも、織編物上で杢外観を視認する上で有用である。例えば、２つの繊維群を使用する場合、両者の単糸繊度比としては１：１〜１：５が好ましい。単糸繊度差が大きくなるにつれ、両者の光沢、色目などの差が顕著になるから、両繊維群の単糸繊度差を大きくすることは、明瞭な杢外観を得る上で好ましいといえる。しかし、単糸繊度差が大きくなり過ぎると、両者の糸質物性に無視できない差が生じやすくなる。このため、これらの調和をとる観点から、上記範囲の比率が好ましいのである。 It is also useful for visually recognizing the wrinkle appearance on the woven or knitted fabric to make the single yarn fineness of each fiber group different from each other. For example, when two fiber groups are used, the single yarn fineness ratio of the two is preferably 1: 1 to 1: 5. As the single yarn fineness difference increases, the difference in gloss and color between the two becomes remarkable. Therefore, it is preferable to increase the single yarn fineness difference between the two fiber groups in order to obtain a clear wrinkle appearance. However, if the single yarn fineness difference is excessively large, a difference that cannot be ignored is likely to occur in both yarn physical properties. For this reason, the ratio in the above range is preferable from the viewpoint of achieving these harmony.
前述のように、本発明の混繊糸は、インターレース混繊糸の範疇に属するものでもある。したがって、当然のことながら長手方向にインターレース混繊部を具備している。ここで、インターレース混繊部の個数としては、４０〜１００個／ｍである必要がある。これは、混繊部の個数を所定範囲に設定することより、織編物上でナチュラル感に富む杢外観が具現できるからであり、混繊部の個数が当該範囲を下回ると、杢外観が流れ杢となり、一方、上回ると、杢目が過度に細かくなり、いずれの場合も織編物の商品価値を低下させてしまう。 As described above, the blended yarn of the present invention belongs to the category of interlaced blended yarn. Therefore, as a matter of course, an interlace mixed fiber portion is provided in the longitudinal direction. Here, the number of interlace mixed portions needs to be 40 to 100 / m. This is because by setting the number of mixed fiber portions within a predetermined range, it is possible to realize a natural-looking wrinkle appearance on the woven or knitted fabric, and when the number of mixed fiber portions falls below the range, the wrinkled appearance flows. On the other hand, when it exceeds, the mesh becomes excessively fine, and in any case, the commercial value of the woven or knitted fabric is lowered.
混繊部の個数を所定範囲とすることは、例えば、混繊時の糸速に応じてノズルのエアー圧を所定範囲に設定することにより可能である。混繊には、一般に市販されている混繊ノズルが用いられる。混繊条件としては、ノズルの種類により多少変動するものの、大方、糸速が５０〜３００ｍ／分のときは、エアー圧が０．５〜３．０ｋｇ／ｃｍ２が好ましく、１．０〜２．５ｋｇ／ｃｍ２がより好ましい。糸速が３００〜１０００ｍ／分のときは、エアー圧が１．０〜６．０ｋｇ／ｃｍ２が好ましく、２．０〜５．０がより好ましい。 The number of the mixed fiber portions can be set within a predetermined range, for example, by setting the air pressure of the nozzle within a predetermined range according to the yarn speed at the time of fiber mixing. A commercially available fiber nozzle is generally used for fiber mixing. The mixing conditions vary somewhat depending on the type of nozzle. However, when the yarn speed is 50 to 300 m / min, the air pressure is preferably 0.5 to 3.0 kg / cm 2 , and 1.0 to 2 0.5 kg / cm 2 is more preferable. When the yarn speed is 300 to 1000 m / min, the air pressure is preferably 1.0 to 6.0 kg / cm 2 , and more preferably 2.0 to 5.0.
本発明の混繊糸は、織編物にナチュラル感に富む杢外観を与えることのできるものである。これを具現するには、製織編工程において混繊糸がガイドなどを通過しても、混繊状態が良好に維持されていることが必要となる。すなわち、混繊糸中の混繊部が開繊するのを抑える必要があり、混繊部が開繊してしまうと、織編物の杢外観はピッチの長い流れ杢となってしまう。 The blended yarn of the present invention can give the woven or knitted fabric a wrinkled appearance rich in natural feeling. In order to realize this, it is necessary that the mixed fiber state is maintained well even if the mixed fiber passes through the guide or the like in the weaving and knitting process. That is, it is necessary to suppress the opening of the blended portion in the blended yarn, and when the blended portion is opened, the wrinkled appearance of the woven or knitted fabric becomes a long pitch wrinkle.
そこで、本発明では、混繊糸中の混繊部を一体化させておく必要がある。こうすることで、混繊糸のガイド通過に伴う摩擦から混繊部を守ることができ、混繊部の開繊を大幅に抑制することができる。 Therefore, in the present invention, it is necessary to integrate the blended portion in the blended yarn. By carrying out like this, a mixed fiber part can be protected from the friction accompanying the guide passage of mixed fiber, and the fiber opening of a mixed fiber part can be suppressed significantly.
具体的には、融着成分を介して混繊部を一体化させる。混繊糸中に融着成分を付与する手段としては、特に限定されるものでない。例えば、混繊直後の混繊部に融着成分を付与することにより、混繊部を一体化させることが可能だが、製造上非効率であるため、好ましくは融着成分を具備する熱接着性繊維を使用する。 Specifically, the mixed fiber portion is integrated through the fusion component. There is no particular limitation on the means for providing the fusion component in the blended yarn. For example, it is possible to unify the blended portion by applying a fusion component to the blended portion immediately after blending, but it is inefficient in manufacturing, and therefore preferably has a thermal adhesive property having the fused component. Use fiber.
熱接着性繊維としては、例えば、繊維全体が融着成分からなる全融タイプのもの、断面が芯鞘構造をなすと同時に鞘部に融着成分を配する芯鞘タイプのものなどが使用できる。この場合、本発明の混繊糸が複数の繊維群から構成される点を考慮し、全融タイプのものを使用するときは、複数の繊維群と、熱接着性繊維を含む糸条（熱接着性糸条）とを同時に混繊するのが好ましい。一方、芯鞘タイプのものを使用するときも、同じく繊維群と熱接着性糸条とを同時に混繊するのが好ましいが、繊維群を必ずしも複数用意する必要はない。これは、熱接着性繊維の鞘部が溶融した後、残った芯部同士が集まって一つの繊維群を構成するからである。つまり、熱接着性繊維が全融タイプの場合は、熱接着性糸条を含め３者混以上とし、芯鞘タイプの場合は、熱接着性糸条を含め２者混以上とすればよい。 As the heat-adhesive fiber, for example, an all-fiber type in which the entire fiber is composed of a fusion component, or a core-sheath type in which the cross-section forms a core-sheath structure and the fusion component is arranged in the sheath portion can be used. . In this case, in consideration of the fact that the mixed yarn of the present invention is composed of a plurality of fiber groups, when using the all-melt type, a plurality of fiber groups and a yarn (heat It is preferable to mix the adhesive yarn) at the same time. On the other hand, when using the core-sheath type, it is preferable to mix the fiber group and the heat-bondable yarn at the same time, but it is not always necessary to prepare a plurality of fiber groups. This is because the core portions remaining after the sheath portion of the heat-adhesive fiber is melted together constitute one fiber group. That is, when the heat-adhesive fiber is a fully fused type, it is sufficient to mix three or more persons including the heat-adhesive yarn, and when the core-sheath type is used, it may be mixed two or more persons including the heat-adhesive thread.
本発明における融着成分の組成としては、特に限定されるものでないが、織編物の後加工を通じて効率よく融着成分を除去できる観点から、共重合ポリエステルが好ましい。具体的には、テレフタル酸成分、エチレングリコール成分を含有し、１，４−ブタンジオール成分、脂肪族ラクトン成分及びアジピン酸成分の少なくとも一成分を共重合した共重合ポリエステルであることが好ましい。特にテレフタル酸成分、脂肪族ラクトン成分、エチレングリコール成分及び１，４−ブタンジオール成分からなる共重合ポリエステルは、比較的結晶化速度が速く、紡糸時だけでなく、融着混繊糸となした後の混繊糸を効率よく冷却できる点でも好ましいといえる。なお、脂肪族ラクトン成分としては、炭素数４〜１１のラクトンが好ましく、特に好ましいラクトンとして、ε−カプロラクトンがあげられる。 Although it does not specifically limit as a composition of the melt | fusion component in this invention, Copolymer polyester is preferable from a viewpoint which can remove a melt | fusion component efficiently through post-processing of a woven / knitted fabric. Specifically, it is preferably a copolyester containing a terephthalic acid component and an ethylene glycol component and copolymerizing at least one of a 1,4-butanediol component, an aliphatic lactone component and an adipic acid component. In particular, a copolyester comprising a terephthalic acid component, an aliphatic lactone component, an ethylene glycol component and a 1,4-butanediol component has a relatively high crystallization speed, and has become a fused mixed yarn as well as during spinning. It can also be said that it is preferable from the viewpoint of efficiently cooling the subsequent mixed fiber. The aliphatic lactone component is preferably a lactone having 4 to 11 carbon atoms, and a particularly preferred lactone is ε-caprolactone.
上記共重合ポリエステルの物性としては、融点が１３０〜２００℃、ガラス転移点が２０〜８０℃、結晶開始温度が９０〜１３０℃であることがそれぞれ好ましい。 As physical properties of the copolymerized polyester, it is preferable that the melting point is 130 to 200 ° C, the glass transition point is 20 to 80 ° C, and the crystal start temperature is 90 to 130 ° C.
そして、芯鞘タイプの熱接着性繊維の鞘部に融着成分として上記共重合ポリエステルを配する場合、芯部には同共重合ポリエステルより融点が３０℃以上高いポリエステルを用いるのが好ましい。さらにこの要件に加え、融点が２２０〜２８０℃の範囲にあるポリエステルを用いるのがより好ましい。当該ポリエステルとしては、具体的に、ポリエチレンテレフタレート（ＰＥＴ）、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートなどが好適であり、実用上はこれらを単独もしくは混合して用いる。これらのポリエステルは、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で共重合成分が含有されていてもよい。共重合成分としては、イソフタル酸、５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸、無水フタル酸、ナフタレンギカルボン酸、トリメリット酸、ピロメリット酸、アジピン酸、アゼライン酸、セバシン酸、ドデカン２酸、４−ヒドロキシ安息香酸、ｅ−カプロラクトン、りん酸、グリセリン、ジエチレングリコール、１，４−ブタンジオール、トリメチルプロパン、１，４−シクロヘキサンジメタノール、ネオペンチルグリコール、ペンタエリスリトール、２，２−ビス｛４−（β−ヒドロキシ）フェニル｝プロパンなどがあげられる。 And when arranging the said copolyester as a fusion | melting component in the sheath part of a core-sheath-type thermoadhesive fiber, it is preferable to use polyester whose melting | fusing point is 30 degreeC or more higher than the copolyester for a core part. In addition to this requirement, it is more preferable to use a polyester having a melting point in the range of 220 to 280 ° C. Specifically, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and the like are preferable as the polyester, and these are used alone or in combination. These polyesters may contain a copolymer component as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. As copolymerization components, isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, phthalic anhydride, naphthalene carboxylic acid, trimellitic acid, pyromellitic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid Acid, e-caprolactone, phosphoric acid, glycerin, diethylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, trimethylpropane, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, neopentyl glycol, pentaerythritol, 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxy ) Phenyl} propane.
さらに、芯鞘タイプの熱接着性繊維の場合、その芯鞘質量比（芯：鞘）としては、４０：６０〜７０：３０であることが好ましい。芯部の比率が４０％未満になると、鞘部を溶融した後、残った芯部から構成される繊維群の単糸繊度が細くなり、織編物の張り腰が低減する傾向にあり、一方、７０％を超えると、融着成分が少なくなる結果、混繊部を一体化させ難くなる傾向にあるため、いずれも好ましくない。 Furthermore, in the case of a core-sheath type thermoadhesive fiber, the core-sheath mass ratio (core: sheath) is preferably 40:60 to 70:30. When the ratio of the core part is less than 40%, after melting the sheath part, the single yarn fineness of the fiber group composed of the remaining core part becomes thin, and the tension waist of the woven or knitted fabric tends to be reduced, If it exceeds 70%, it is difficult to integrate the mixed fiber portion as a result of a decrease in the fusion component, and therefore neither is preferable.
熱接着性繊維の糸条形態、繊維断面形状については、繊維の種類、すなわち全融タイプ、芯鞘タイプのいずれであっても、特に限定されない。この場合、糸条形態としては、マルチフィラメント、モノフィラメントいずれの形態も採用可能であり、繊維単糸断面としても丸、三角、十字などいずれの形状も採用可能である。また、単糸繊度としては、１．１〜１６７ｄｔｅｘが好ましく、特に単糸繊度が比較的小さいときはマルチフィラメントを、比較的大きいときはモノフィラメントをそれぞれ選択するのが好ましい。 The yarn form and the fiber cross-sectional shape of the heat-adhesive fiber are not particularly limited, regardless of the type of fiber, that is, the total melt type or the core-sheath type. In this case, as the yarn form, any form such as multifilament or monofilament can be adopted, and any shape such as round, triangular, cross, etc. can be adopted as the cross section of the single fiber. The single yarn fineness is preferably 1.1 to 167 dtex, and it is particularly preferable to select a multifilament when the single yarn fineness is relatively small and a monofilament when the single yarn fineness is relatively large.
このように、本発明では、融着成分を介して混繊糸中の混繊部を一体化させる。混繊の弱い部位については、必ずしも一体化させる必要はないものの、製織編における工程通過性などを考慮し、同様に一体化させておくのが好ましい。 As described above, in the present invention, the blended portions in the blended yarn are integrated via the fusion component. Although it is not always necessary to integrate the weakly mixed portions, it is preferable to integrate them in the same manner in consideration of process passability in weaving and knitting.
また、先に述べたように、混繊部の開繊を単に抑制するだけなら、張力の適正化や混繊強化といった手段も有効である。しかし、これらのみで混繊部を一体化させると無視できない問題が生じる。そこで、本発明では、融着成分を使用して混繊部を一体化させるのである。ただし、本発明では、張力の適正化や混繊強化を排除しているのではないことに留意すべきである。つまり、本発明では、これらを主たる開繊抑制の手段には採用しないとしているだけで、融着成分を使用して混繊部を一体化させているのであれば、これらの手段の採用をなんら妨げるものでないのは当然である。 In addition, as described above, means such as optimization of tension and reinforcement of fiber mixing are also effective if the opening of the fiber mixing part is simply suppressed. However, if the mixed fiber portion is integrated only with these, a problem that cannot be ignored arises. Therefore, in the present invention, the fiber mixture portion is integrated using a fusion component. However, it should be noted that the present invention does not exclude the optimization of tension and the strengthening of mixed fibers. In other words, in the present invention, these are simply not adopted as the main means for suppressing the spread, and if the mixed fiber part is integrated using the fusion component, these means are not adopted at all. Of course, it is not a hindrance.
ここで、一体化した混繊部の接着強度について述べる。本発明では、接着強度の大小を、混繊糸を一定割合で伸長させたとき、混繊がどの程度解けるかを定量的に表すことにより、判断する。一般に、インターレース混繊糸を素早く引き伸ばすと、そのはずみで混繊が解けることがあるため、本発明ではこの点を利用して混繊部の接着強度を推し量るのである。 Here, the adhesive strength of the integrated mixed fiber portion will be described. In the present invention, the magnitude of the adhesive strength is determined by quantitatively expressing how much the mixed fiber is unwound when the mixed fiber is stretched at a constant rate. In general, when the interlaced mixed yarn is stretched quickly, the mixed fiber may be unwound by the splash, and the present invention uses this point to estimate the adhesive strength of the mixed fiber portion.
具体的には、引張り速度２００ｍｍ／分で試料を定速伸長し、元糸長に対し５％伸長した後の除重状態において開繊状態を観察する。当該伸長後の糸条における開繊状態としては、５ｃｍを超えて連続して開繊している部位がなく、かつ連続して３〜５ｃｍ開繊している部位の数が１ｍあたり５箇所以下に抑えられていることが好ましい。伸長後の糸条がこれら２要件のいずれかを満足しないときは、織編物に与える杢外観が流れ杢となる傾向にある。 Specifically, the sample is stretched at a constant speed at a pulling speed of 200 mm / min, and the opened state is observed in a deweighted state after stretching by 5% with respect to the original yarn length. As the spread state in the stretched yarn, there is no part that is continuously opened beyond 5 cm, and the number of parts that are continuously opened 3 to 5 cm is 5 or less per 1 m. It is preferable to be suppressed. When the yarn after elongation does not satisfy either of these two requirements, the wrinkle appearance given to the woven or knitted fabric tends to become a flow wrinkle.
次に、芯鞘タイプの熱接着性繊維を使用して本発明の混繊糸をなす方法、並びに当該混繊糸を用いて織編物をなす方法について一例を述べる。 Next, an example of a method for forming a mixed fiber of the present invention using a core-sheath type heat-bondable fiber and a method for forming a woven or knitted fabric using the mixed fiber will be described.
まず、熱接着性糸条を用意する。当該熱接着性糸条は、公知の複合紡糸装置を用いて製造することができる。具体的には、前述のポリエステルを複合紡糸装置に投入し、引取速度１０００〜４５００ｍ／分の範囲で複合紡糸した後、所定の倍率に延伸すればよい。 First, a heat-bondable yarn is prepared. The heat-bondable yarn can be produced using a known composite spinning device. Specifically, the above-described polyester may be put into a composite spinning apparatus, composite spun at a take-up speed of 1000 to 4500 m / min, and then drawn at a predetermined magnification.
熱接着性糸条を得た後は、混繊相手となる、熱接着性糸条と単糸フィラメント数が異なる糸条を用意し、両者を同時に混繊して４０〜１００個／ｍのインターレース混繊部を導入する。このとき、両糸条の繊維素材、フィラメント数の比、単糸繊度比、混繊時の糸速、エアー圧などは前記した通りである。また、両糸条の混率（熱接着性糸条：混繊相手の糸条）としては、特に限定されるものでないが、好ましくは５：９５〜５０：５０とする。なお、この例では、熱接着性繊維として芯鞘タイプのものを使用しているので、使用する混繊相手の糸条は、単独種、複数種のいずれでもよい。 After obtaining the heat-adhesive yarn, prepare yarns with different numbers of single-filament filaments from the heat-adhesive yarn to be mixed, and mix them at the same time to interlace 40 to 100 pieces / m. Introduce mixed fiber part. At this time, the fiber material of both yarns, the ratio of the number of filaments, the single yarn fineness ratio, the yarn speed during blending, the air pressure, and the like are as described above. Further, the mixing ratio of both yarns (thermal adhesive yarn: yarn of the mixed fiber partner) is not particularly limited, but is preferably 5:95 to 50:50. In this example, since a core-sheath type fiber is used as the heat-adhesive fiber, the yarn used as the blended fiber partner may be either a single type or a plurality of types.
そして、混繊後は、熱接着性繊維の鞘部に配された融着成分より１０℃以上高い温度で熱処理することにより、本発明の融着混繊糸を得ることができる。 And after fiber mixing, the heat-fusion fiber of this invention can be obtained by heat-processing at the temperature 10 degreeC or more higher than the melt | fusion component distribute | arranged to the sheath part of the heat bondable fiber.
次に、得られた混繊糸を公知の方法に準じて製織編し、得られた織編物をアルカリ減量する。アルカリ減量により、織編物内にある融着成分を除去することができる。ただ、必ずしも全ての融着成分を除去する必要はなく、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲であれば、融着成分を一部残してもよい。これは、織編物に融着成分が残り過ぎていると、最終的に得られる織編物の風合いが硬いものとなるが、融着成分が適度に残されていると、シャリ感、清涼感などむしろ好ましい風合いを発することもあるからである。融着成分の除去量としては、全融着成分に対し５０質量％以上が好ましく、８０質量％以上がより好ましい。 Next, the obtained mixed fiber is woven and knitted according to a known method, and the obtained woven or knitted fabric is subjected to alkali weight reduction. The fusion component in the woven or knitted fabric can be removed by reducing the alkali. However, it is not always necessary to remove all the fusion components, and a part of the fusion components may be left as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. This means that if too much fusion component remains in the knitted or knitted fabric, the texture of the finally obtained woven or knitted fabric will be hard, but if the fusion component is left in an appropriate amount, it will be crisp, cool, etc. Rather, it may give a favorable texture. The removal amount of the fusion component is preferably 50% by mass or more, and more preferably 80% by mass or more based on the total fusion component.
この他、織編物にポリエステル繊維が使用されている場合には、アルカリ減量することでポリエステル繊維の表面を溶出することができ、ソフト感ある風合いが具現する。 In addition, when the polyester fiber is used for the woven or knitted fabric, the surface of the polyester fiber can be eluted by reducing the alkali, thereby realizing a soft texture.
アルカリ減量後は、織編物を染色する。これにより織編物に杢外観を発現させることができる。染色の際に用いられる染料としては、使用繊維に応じ任意に選択すればよい。そして、使用する染料の種類も単一種、複数種のいずれでもよい。ただ、明瞭な杢外観を得るという点では、織編物において、混繊糸を構成する各繊維群を別種類の染料で色目が異なるように染料するか、一方の繊維群のみを染色し、他方は染色しないという手段が好ましく採用される。例えば、混繊糸がポリエステル／レーヨンの組み合わせから構成されている場合、ポリエステル繊維を染める染料として分散染料を用い、レーヨン繊維を染める染料として反応染料を用い、両染料の色目を異なるものとすることにより、織編物に明瞭な杢外観を発現させることができる。 After the alkali weight loss, the woven or knitted fabric is dyed. Thereby, a wrinkle appearance can be expressed in the woven or knitted fabric. What is necessary is just to select arbitrarily as a dye used in the case of dyeing according to the fiber used. And the kind of dye to be used may be either a single kind or a plurality of kinds. However, in terms of obtaining a clear wrinkle appearance, in the knitted or knitted fabric, each fiber group constituting the mixed yarn is dyed with a different type of dye so that the color is different, or only one fiber group is dyed, and the other The means of not dyeing is preferably employed. For example, when the blended yarn is composed of a combination of polyester / rayon, disperse dye is used as dye for dyeing polyester fiber, reactive dye is used as dye for dyeing rayon fiber, and both dyes have different colors. As a result, a clear wrinkle appearance can be expressed in the woven or knitted fabric.
染色後は、必要に応じて織編物をファイナルセットし、目的とする織編物となす。 After dyeing, if necessary, the woven or knitted fabric is finally set to obtain the desired woven or knitted fabric.
極限粘度０．７８、融点１８１℃、ガラス転移点４８℃で、１，４ブタンジオールを５０ｍｏｌ％共重合させた結晶性の共重合ポリエステルと、極限粘度０．６１、融点２５６℃のＰＥＴとを用意した。なお、融点は、パーキンエルマー社製示差走査熱量計「ＤＳＣ−２型（商品名）」を用いて、昇温速度２０℃／分で測定した。 A crystalline copolyester obtained by copolymerizing 50 mol% of 1,4 butanediol with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.78, a melting point of 181 ° C. and a glass transition point of 48 ° C., and an PET having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.61 and a melting point of 256 ° C. Prepared. The melting point was measured using a differential scanning calorimeter “DSC-2 type (trade name)” manufactured by PerkinElmer Co., Ltd. at a temperature rising rate of 20 ° C./min.
これらのポリエステルを質量比１：１の割合で複合紡糸装置に投入し、温度２７０℃で同時に紡糸、延伸することにより、鞘部に共重合ポリエステルを、芯部にＰＥＴを配する芯鞘構造の熱接着性繊維からなる糸条を得た。得られた糸条の繊度は、２８ｄｔｅｘ１２ｆであった。 These polyesters are put into a compound spinning apparatus at a mass ratio of 1: 1, and simultaneously spun and stretched at a temperature of 270 ° C. to form a core-sheath structure in which a copolymer polyester is disposed in the sheath and PET is disposed in the core. A yarn composed of heat-adhesive fibers was obtained. The fineness of the obtained yarn was 28 dtex12f.
そして、予め用意しておいたレーヨンフィラメント糸条８４ｄｔｅｘ３０ｆと、先の熱接着性糸条とを石川製作所製「ＳＴＰワインダー（商品名）」を用いて、糸速１００ｍ／分、エアー圧１．５ｋｇ／ｃｍ２なる条件でインターレース混繊した。その後、熱ヒーターを用いて温度２００℃でこれを熱処理し、本発明の融着混繊糸を得た。得られた混繊糸では、熱接着性繊維の鞘部に配された共重合ポリエステルが融着成分となり、混繊部が一体化されていた。また、得られた混繊糸は、インターレース混繊部を８０個／ｍ具備するものであった。混繊部の接着強度としては、引張り速度２００ｍｍ／分で５％定速伸長させた後の、連続して３〜５ｃｍ開繊している部位の数は、１箇所／ｍであり、５ｃｍを超えて連続して開繊している部位は認められなかった。 Then, using a previously prepared rayon filament yarn 84dtex30f and the previously heat-bondable yarn using “STP Winder (trade name)” manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho, yarn speed 100 m / min, air pressure 1.5 kg Interlace fiber mixing was performed under the condition of / cm 2 . Then, this was heat-processed at the temperature of 200 degreeC using the heat heater, and the fusion | melting mixed fiber of this invention was obtained. In the obtained mixed fiber, the copolyester arranged in the sheath part of the heat-bonding fiber became a fusion component, and the mixed fiber part was integrated. Moreover, the obtained mixed yarn was provided with 80 interlaced mixed fibers / m. As the adhesive strength of the mixed fiber portion, the number of sites that are continuously opened 3-5 cm after being stretched at a constant rate of 5% at a pulling rate of 200 mm / min is 1 location / m, and 5 cm. There were no sites that were continuously opened beyond that.
次に、福原精機製丸編機「ＬＰＪ−Ｈ３３（商品名）」を用いて針密度を２８ゲージとし、スムース組織の編地が得られるよう当該融着混繊糸を製編した。そして、得られた編地をアルカリ濃度４０ｇ／Ｌ、浴比１：５０なる条件で６０分間アルカリ減量した。次いで、反応染料を２％ｏｍｆ、無水硫酸ナトリウムを３０ｇ／Ｌ、ソーダ灰を１０ｇ／Ｌ用いて編地を染色した後、これをファイナルセットした。 Next, the fused mixed yarn was knitted using a Fukuhara Seiki circular knitting machine “LPJ-H33 (trade name)” at a needle density of 28 gauge so that a knitted fabric with a smooth structure was obtained. The obtained knitted fabric was subjected to alkali reduction for 60 minutes under the conditions of an alkali concentration of 40 g / L and a bath ratio of 1:50. Next, the knitted fabric was dyed with 2% omf of reactive dye, 30 g / L of anhydrous sodium sulfate, and 10 g / L of soda ash, and then final set.
得られた編地は、当該染色により、編地内のレーヨンフィラメント糸条のみが染色され、結果的に明瞭な杢外観を呈した。また、この編地では、アルカリ減量により、融着成分たる共重合ポリエステルが除去されていると共にＰＥＴ表面の一部も溶出されていた。このため、ソフト感に非常に富むものであった。 The obtained knitted fabric was dyed only by the rayon filament yarn in the knitted fabric by the dyeing, resulting in a clear wrinkle appearance. Further, in this knitted fabric, the copolyester as a fusion component was removed and part of the PET surface was also eluted due to the alkali weight loss. For this reason, it was very rich in soft feeling.
他方、上記実施例において、熱ヒーター使用時の温度を２００℃に代えて１７０℃としたところ、熱接着性繊維の鞘部に配された共重合ポリエステルが十分に溶融せず、融着成分として十分に機能しなかったため、混繊部を一体化させることができなかった。この混繊糸を上記と同様の製編工程に付したところ、ガイド通過時に受ける摩擦により、混繊糸のいたるところで開繊が見られた。また、染色加工を経て得られた編地の杢外観も、ピッチの長い流れ杢となってしまった。 On the other hand, in the above example, when the temperature when using the heat heater was set to 170 ° C. instead of 200 ° C., the copolymer polyester disposed in the sheath portion of the heat-adhesive fiber did not melt sufficiently, and as a fusion component Since it did not function sufficiently, the mixed fiber portion could not be integrated. When this blended yarn was subjected to a knitting process similar to the above, opening was observed everywhere in the blended yarn due to friction received when passing through the guide. In addition, the wrinkle appearance of the knitted fabric obtained through the dyeing process has also become a long pitch wrinkle.
さらに、上記実施例において、インターレース混繊時のエアー圧を１．５ｋｇ／ｃｍ２に代えて０．３ｋｇ／ｃｍ２としたところ、混繊糸中にインターレース混繊部が３５個／ｍしか形成されず、混繊時の糸速を１００ｍ／分に代えて３０ｍ／分としたところ、混繊部が１０５個／ｍ形成された。そして、これらの混繊糸を用いて、上記実施例と同様にしてそれぞれ編地を作製したところ、前者では、編地の杢外観が流れ杢となり、後者では、逆に杢目が細かくなりすぎてしまった。
Further, in the above embodiment, when the air pressure during interlaced combined filament was 0.3 kg / cm 2 instead of 1.5 kg / cm 2, interlaced combined filament portion combined filament yarn in the only 35 / m formed However, when the yarn speed at the time of fiber mixing was changed to 30 m / min instead of 100 m / min, 105 fibers / m were formed. Then, using these mixed yarns, knitted fabrics were respectively produced in the same manner as in the above examples. In the former, the wrinkle appearance of the knitted fabric was flowed, and in the latter, the knots were too fine. I have.
Claims (4)
A method for producing a knitted or knitted fabric, comprising knitting and knitting using the fused mixed yarn according to claim 1 or 2 and then reducing the amount of alkali and dyeing it.
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| KR20190062860A (en) * | 2017-11-29 | 2019-06-07 | 주식회사 휴비스 | Thermal Bonded Nonwoven With Natural Fibers |
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| KR102002586B1 (en) | 2017-11-29 | 2019-10-01 | 주식회사 휴비스 | Thermal Bonded Nonwoven With Natural Fibers |
| KR101946409B1 (en) | 2018-05-02 | 2019-02-11 | 주식회사 이폴리움 | Manufacturing method of refrigerant fabric and refrigerant fabric manufactured by the method |
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