JP5651307B2 - Oily cosmetics - Google Patents
Oily cosmetics Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP5651307B2 JP5651307B2 JP2009183266A JP2009183266A JP5651307B2 JP 5651307 B2 JP5651307 B2 JP 5651307B2 JP 2009183266 A JP2009183266 A JP 2009183266A JP 2009183266 A JP2009183266 A JP 2009183266A JP 5651307 B2 JP5651307 B2 JP 5651307B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- group
- fatty acid
- component
- acid esters
- oil
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 35
- -1 cholesterol fatty acid esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 70
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 claims description 31
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 30
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 28
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 28
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 28
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000000539 dimer Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010696 ester oil Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Natural products C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000002009 diols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000002915 carbonyl group Chemical group [*:2]C([*:1])=O 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000008021 deposition Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000000977 initiatory effect Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 19
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 13
- 239000004354 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 13
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- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 10
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 8
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 8
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 7
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- HEDRZPFGACZZDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chloroform Chemical compound ClC(Cl)Cl HEDRZPFGACZZDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron oxide Chemical compound [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 125000002511 behenyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 6
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 6
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- 229920003088 hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 235000010979 hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- UFVKGYZPFZQRLF-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose Chemical compound OC1C(O)C(OC)OC(CO)C1OC1C(O)C(O)C(OC2C(C(O)C(OC3C(C(O)C(O)C(CO)O3)O)C(CO)O2)O)C(CO)O1 UFVKGYZPFZQRLF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 6
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 238000001556 precipitation Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 6
- WAYINTBTZWQNSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 11-methyldodecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C WAYINTBTZWQNSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
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- 240000000912 Macadamia tetraphylla Species 0.000 description 5
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- VJZWIFWPGRIJSN-XRHABHTOSA-N dilinoleic acid Chemical class CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O VJZWIFWPGRIJSN-XRHABHTOSA-N 0.000 description 5
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229920001479 Hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 4
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- WYURNTSHIVDZCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tetrahydrofuran Chemical compound C1CCOC1 WYURNTSHIVDZCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- JBBRZDLNVILTDL-XNTGVSEISA-N [(3s,8s,9s,10r,13r,14s,17r)-10,13-dimethyl-17-[(2r)-6-methylheptan-2-yl]-2,3,4,7,8,9,11,12,14,15,16,17-dodecahydro-1h-cyclopenta[a]phenanthren-3-yl] 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound C([C@@H]12)C[C@]3(C)[C@@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)CC[C@H]3[C@@H]1CC=C1[C@]2(C)CC[C@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)C1 JBBRZDLNVILTDL-XNTGVSEISA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 4
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl undecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 4
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- 238000003892 spreading Methods 0.000 description 4
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 description 3
- UIVPNOBLHXUKDX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)CC(C)CCOC(=O)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C UIVPNOBLHXUKDX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000021357 Behenic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000005639 Lauric acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methanol Chemical compound OC OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 229940116226 behenic acid Drugs 0.000 description 3
- HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(16-methylheptadecyl) 2-hydroxybutanedioate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C HGKOWIQVWAQWDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000003480 eluent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000005227 gel permeation chromatography Methods 0.000 description 3
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 3
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- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
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- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- LXSAHJOSRZVGKT-MAZCIEHSSA-N (6z,9z)-18-[(9z,12z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoxy]octadeca-6,9-diene Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC LXSAHJOSRZVGKT-MAZCIEHSSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 239000004793 Polystyrene Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000006096 absorbing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001350 alkyl halides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
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- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000012211 aluminium silicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012164 animal wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002519 antifouling agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001204 arachidyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000010426 asphalt Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000021302 avocado oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008163 avocado oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K azanium;manganese(3+);phosphonato phosphate Chemical compound [NH4+].[Mn+3].[O-]P([O-])(=O)OP([O-])([O-])=O UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 235000013871 bee wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000012166 beeswax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000440 bentonite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000278 bentonite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- SVPXDRXYRYOSEX-UHFFFAOYSA-N bentoquatam Chemical compound O.O=[Si]=O.O=[Al]O[Al]=O SVPXDRXYRYOSEX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940073609 bismuth oxychloride Drugs 0.000 description 1
- JHIWVOJDXOSYLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N butyl 2,2-difluorocyclopropane-1-carboxylate Chemical compound CCCCOC(=O)C1CC1(F)F JHIWVOJDXOSYLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000484 butyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229910000019 calcium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000011088 calibration curve Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004204 candelilla wax Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 229940073532 candelilla wax Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000002775 capsule Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006229 carbon black Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004203 carnauba wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013869 carnauba wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- VQWFNAGFNGABOH-UHFFFAOYSA-K chromium(iii) hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[Cr+3] VQWFNAGFNGABOH-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
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- 229910052570 clay Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- LFSBSHDDAGNCTM-UHFFFAOYSA-N cobalt(2+);oxygen(2-);titanium(4+) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Ti+4].[Co+2] LFSBSHDDAGNCTM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000002704 decyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 239000002781 deodorant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000004090 dissolution Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 125000005066 dodecenyl group Chemical group C(=CCCCCCCCCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000003438 dodecyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000000816 ethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
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- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009477 glass transition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000003976 glyceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(O[H])([H])C(O[H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 230000037308 hair color Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003779 hair growth Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N hentriacontane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002818 heptacosyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000003187 heptyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- ARBOVOVUTSQWSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoyl chloride Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(Cl)=O ARBOVOVUTSQWSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004051 hexyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 238000004128 high performance liquid chromatography Methods 0.000 description 1
- VJVOFLWZDWLHNR-MRCUWXFGSA-N icosan-9-yl (z)-docos-13-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(CCCCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC VJVOFLWZDWLHNR-MRCUWXFGSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229910010272 inorganic material Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011147 inorganic material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001023 inorganic pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- WTFXARWRTYJXII-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(2+);iron(3+);oxygen(2-) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[O-2].[Fe+2].[Fe+3].[Fe+3] WTFXARWRTYJXII-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(II,III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]O[Fe]=O SZVJSHCCFOBDDC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(III) oxide Inorganic materials O=[Fe]O[Fe]=O JEIPFZHSYJVQDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940074928 isopropyl myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002463 lignoceryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
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- ZLNQQNXFFQJAID-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium carbonate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[O-]C([O-])=O ZLNQQNXFFQJAID-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000001095 magnesium carbonate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000021 magnesium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- HCWCAKKEBCNQJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium orthosilicate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Mg+2].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] HCWCAKKEBCNQJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000395 magnesium oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- CPLXHLVBOLITMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium oxide Inorganic materials [Mg]=O CPLXHLVBOLITMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000391 magnesium silicate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019792 magnesium silicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052919 magnesium silicate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910052943 magnesium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000019341 magnesium sulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium;oxygen(2-) Chemical compound [O-2].[Mg+2] AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002960 margaryl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000012184 mineral wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003607 modifier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001333 moisturizer Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012170 montan wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000002819 montanyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001802 myricyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001421 myristyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- YWFWDNVOPHGWMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n,n-dimethyldodecan-1-amine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCN(C)C YWFWDNVOPHGWMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000000282 nail Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000000978 natural dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000002465 nonacosyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001196 nonadecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001400 nonyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000005064 octadecenyl group Chemical group C(=CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000002347 octyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- TWNQGVIAIRXVLR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxo(oxoalumanyloxy)alumane Chemical compound O=[Al]O[Al]=O TWNQGVIAIRXVLR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxobismuth;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Bi]=O BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxygen(2-);zirconium(4+) Chemical compound [O-2].[O-2].[Zr+4] RVTZCBVAJQQJTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000011837 pasties Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000002460 pentacosyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000002958 pentadecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001147 pentyl group Chemical group C(CCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- 239000012169 petroleum derived wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019381 petroleum wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052628 phlogopite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000012165 plant wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000003367 polycyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002223 polystyrene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000004805 propylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- UMJSCPRVCHMLSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyridine Natural products COC1=CC=CN=C1 UMJSCPRVCHMLSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010992 reflux Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000000630 rising effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052814 silicon oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000003381 solubilizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940037312 stearamide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000003459 sulfonic acid esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006228 supernatant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004381 surface treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000012222 talc Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000005063 tetradecenyl group Chemical group C(=CCCCCCCCCCCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- YLQBMQCUIZJEEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetrahydrofuran Natural products C=1C=COC=1 YLQBMQCUIZJEEH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005809 transesterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000002469 tricosyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000005040 tridecenyl group Chemical group C(=CCCCCCCCCCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000002889 tridecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000002948 undecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、油性化粧料に関する。 The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic.
油性化粧料は油を連続相とする化粧料で、口唇や皮膚に塗布されて、乾燥を防ぎ、滑らかな感触を付与するものである。また、顔料を含有させ、口紅、アイシャドウ、ファンデーション等のメイクアップ化粧料として用いることができる。メイクアップ化粧料は、色味や質感を付与する化粧料であり、その持続性も求められる。質感のうち、特に光沢を与え、それを持続させる方法として、屈折率が高く、粘度が高い油剤を使用することが知られている(例えば、特許文献1〜3)。
しかしながら、屈折率の高い油剤は、粘度が高く、べたつきの原因となり、使用感が悪くなるという問題があった。この使用感を改善するため、室温でペースト状の屈折率の高い油性基剤が検討されているが、このような油性基剤では、光沢および使用感の持続性が低下する傾向にあった。
Oily cosmetics are cosmetics with oil as a continuous phase, and are applied to the lips and skin to prevent drying and give a smooth feel. Moreover, it can contain a pigment and can be used as makeup cosmetics such as lipsticks, eye shadows, and foundations. Makeup cosmetics are cosmetics that impart color and texture, and their sustainability is also required. Among textures, it is known to use an oil agent having a high refractive index and a high viscosity as a method of giving gloss and sustaining it (for example, Patent Documents 1 to 3).
However, an oil agent having a high refractive index has a problem that it has a high viscosity, causes stickiness, and deteriorates the feeling of use. In order to improve this feeling of use, paste-like oily bases having a high refractive index at room temperature have been studied. However, such oily bases tend to lower gloss and durability of feeling of use.
本発明は、光沢に優れ、べたつかず使用感が良好で、しかもこの光沢及び使用感が持続する油性化粧料を提供することを課題とする。 An object of the present invention is to provide an oily cosmetic material that has excellent gloss, is non-sticky, has a good feeling of use, and that maintains the gloss and feeling of use.
本発明者らは、特定のペースト油剤を、特定のセルロース誘導体及び特定の油剤と共に用いることにより、光沢に優れ、べたつかずなめらかで使用感が良好であり、しかもこの光沢及び使用感が持続する油性化粧料が得られることを見出した。 By using a specific paste oil together with a specific cellulose derivative and a specific oil, the present inventors have excellent luster, non-stickiness, smoothness and good feeling of use, and the luster and feeling of use are sustained. We found that cosmetics can be obtained.
本発明は、次の成分(A)、(B)及び(C):
(A)主鎖にセルロース骨格を有し、全水酸基の67mol%以上が基−O−M−R(MはCH2又はカルボニル基C=Oを示し、Rは炭素数3〜40の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基を示す)で置換されているセルロース誘導体 0.1〜15質量%、
(B)25℃で液状のエステル油 10〜80質量%、
(C)ダイマー酸エステル、ダイマージオール誘導体、コレステロール脂肪酸エステル、フィトステロール脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル及びペンタエリスリトール脂肪酸エステルから選ばれる1種以上のペースト油剤 0.5〜50質量%
を含有する油性化粧料を提供するものである。
The present invention includes the following components (A), (B) and (C):
(A) The main chain has a cellulose skeleton, and 67 mol% or more of the total hydroxyl groups are a group —O—M—R (M is CH 2 or a carbonyl group C═O, and R is a straight chain having 3 to 40 carbon atoms. Or a cellulose derivative substituted with a branched chain alkyl group or alkenyl group) 0.1 to 15% by mass,
(B) 10 to 80% by mass of an ester oil that is liquid at 25 ° C.
(C) One or more paste oil agents selected from dimer acid esters, dimer diol derivatives, cholesterol fatty acid esters, phytosterol fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters and pentaerythritol fatty acid esters 0.5 to 50% by mass
Oil-based cosmetics containing the above are provided.
本発明の油性化粧料は、光沢および使用感に優れたものであり、しかもこの光沢および使用感が持続するものである。 The oily cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in gloss and feeling of use, and the gloss and feeling of use are sustained.
本発明で用いる成分(A)のセルロース誘導体は、主鎖にセルロース骨格を有するものであれば特に限定されないが、原料セルロース誘導体としては、セルロースを含むほか、アセチルセルロース、アセチルブチルセルロース等の短鎖アシル化セルロース、ヒドロキシアルキル基、グリセリルエーテル基、(モノ)アルキルグリセリルエーテル基で変性されたセルロースが好ましい。より具体的には、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロース、グリセリルセルロース、メチルグリセリルセルロース等が挙げられる。
更には、原料セルロース誘導体としては、以下の構成単位を有するものが好ましい。
The cellulose derivative of the component (A) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it has a cellulose skeleton in the main chain, but the raw material cellulose derivative includes cellulose and short chains such as acetylcellulose and acetylbutylcellulose. Preference is given to cellulose modified with acylated cellulose, hydroxyalkyl groups, glyceryl ether groups, (mono) alkyl glyceryl ether groups. More specifically, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, glyceryl cellulose, methyl glyceryl cellulose and the like can be mentioned.
Furthermore, as a raw material cellulose derivative, what has the following structural units is preferable.
(式中、R'は炭素数2〜8の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキレン基を示し、nはグルコース単位当たりのR'Oの平均付加モル数が0.1〜10となる数を示す) (In the formula, R ′ represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and n represents a number with an average added mole number of R′O per glucose unit of 0.1 to 10)
当該構成単位において、R'としては、直鎖又は分岐鎖の炭素数2〜4のアルキレン基が好ましく、更には、エチレン基及びプロピレン基が好ましい。またnとしては、グルコース単位当たりのR'Oの平均付加モル数が0.3〜5となる数が好ましく、0.5〜4.5となる数がより好ましく、1〜4となる数が更に好ましい。 In the structural unit, R ′ is preferably a linear or branched alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably an ethylene group or a propylene group. Moreover, as n, the number from which the average added mole number of R′O per glucose unit is 0.3 to 5 is preferable, the number from 0.5 to 4.5 is more preferable, and the number from 1 to 4 is Further preferred.
原料セルロース誘導体の好ましいものとしては、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース等が挙げられ、特に、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースが好ましい。
また、原料セルロース誘導体の重量平均分子量(Mw)は、油剤への溶解性、及び感触の点から、好ましくは1万〜400万、より好ましくは10万〜300万、更に好ましくは50万〜200万である。
Preferred examples of the raw material cellulose derivative include hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl cellulose is particularly preferable.
Moreover, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the raw material cellulose derivative is preferably 10,000 to 4,000,000, more preferably 100,000 to 3,000,000, and still more preferably 500,000 to 200, from the viewpoint of solubility in oil and feel. Ten thousand.
原料セルロース誘導体の水酸基の置換基である基−O−M−R中、MはCH2又はカルボニル基C=Oを示し、Rは炭素数3〜40の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基である。
(i)直鎖のアルキル基としては、ブチル基、ペンチル基、ヘキシル基、ヘプチル基、オクチル基、ノニル基、デシル基、ウンデシル基、ドデシル基、トリデシル基、テトラデシル基、ペンタデシル基、ヘキサデシル基、ヘプタデシル基、オクタデシル基、ノナデシル基、イコシル基、ヘンイコシル基、ドコシル基、トリコシル基、テトラコシル基、ペンタコシル基、ヘキサコシル基、ヘプタコシル基、オクタコシル基、ノナコシル基、トリアコンチル基、ヘントリアコンチル基、ドトリアコンチル基、トリトリアコンチル基、テトラトリアコンチル基、ペンタトリアコンチル基、ヘキサトリアコンチル基、ヘプタトリアコンチル基、オクタトリアコンチル基、ノナトリアコンチル基、テトラコンチル基等が挙げられる。
In the group —O—M—R, which is a hydroxyl group substituent of the raw material cellulose derivative, M represents CH 2 or a carbonyl group C═O, and R represents a linear or branched alkyl group or alkenyl having 3 to 40 carbon atoms. It is a group.
(I) As a linear alkyl group, butyl group, pentyl group, hexyl group, heptyl group, octyl group, nonyl group, decyl group, undecyl group, dodecyl group, tridecyl group, tetradecyl group, pentadecyl group, hexadecyl group, Heptadecyl group, octadecyl group, nonadecyl group, icosyl group, heicosyl group, docosyl group, tricosyl group, tetracosyl group, pentacosyl group, hexacosyl group, heptacosyl group, octacosyl group, nonacosyl group, triacontyl group, hentriacontyl group, dotriacontyl group, Examples include tritriacontyl group, tetratriacontyl group, pentatriacontyl group, hexatriacontyl group, heptatriacontyl group, octatriacontyl group, nonatriacontyl group, tetracontyl group and the like.
(ii)分岐鎖のアルキル基としては、メチルペンチル基、メチルヘキシル基、メチルペンチル基、メチルオクチル基、メチルノニル基、メチルウンデシル基、メチルヘプタデシル基、エチルヘキサデシル基、メチルオクタデシル基、プロピルペンタデシル基、2−ヘキシルデシル基、2−オクチルドデシル、2−ヘプチルウンデシル基、2−デシルテトラデシル基、2−ドデシルヘキサデシル基、2−テトラデシルオクタデシル基、2−オクタデシルベヘニル基等が挙げられる。 (Ii) Examples of branched alkyl groups include methylpentyl, methylhexyl, methylpentyl, methyloctyl, methylnonyl, methylundecyl, methylheptadecyl, ethylhexadecyl, methyloctadecyl, propyl Pentadecyl group, 2-hexyldecyl group, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-heptylundecyl group, 2-decyltetradecyl group, 2-dodecylhexadecyl group, 2-tetradecyloctadecyl group, 2-octadecylbehenyl group, etc. Can be mentioned.
(iii)直鎖のアルケニル基としては、ドデセニル、トリデセニル、テトラデセニル、ペンタデセニル、ヘキサデセニル、ヘプタデセニル、オクタデセニル、ノナデセニル、イコセニル、ヘニコセニル、ドコセニル、トリコセニル、テトラコセニル、ヘプタコセニル、ヘキサコセニル、ヘプタコセニル、オクタコセニル等が挙げられる。
(iv)分岐鎖のアルケニル基としては、イソトリデセニル、イソオクタデセニル、イソトリアコンテニル、2−ブチルオクテニル、2−ヘキシルデセニル、2−オクチルドデセニル、2−デシルテトラデセニル、2−ドデシルヘキサデセニル等が挙げられる。
(Iii) Examples of linear alkenyl groups include dodecenyl, tridecenyl, tetradecenyl, pentadecenyl, hexadecenyl, heptadecenyl, octadecenyl, nonadecenyl, icocenyl, henicocenyl, dococenyl, tricocenyl, tetracocenyl, heptacosenyl, hexacocenyl, heptacocenyl, octacocenyl, etc.
(Iv) Examples of branched alkenyl groups include isotridecenyl, isooctadecenyl, isotriacontenyl, 2-butyloctenyl, 2-hexyldecenyl, 2-octyldodecenyl, 2-decyltetradecenyl, 2- And dodecyl hexadecenyl.
これらのうち、油性化粧料の塗布時の滑らかさ付与の観点から、直鎖アルキル基が好ましい。更には、伸ばしやすさ、密着性の良さから、炭素数9〜21が好ましく、更に、炭素数11〜17、特に15が好ましい。 Among these, a linear alkyl group is preferable from the viewpoint of imparting smoothness during application of the oily cosmetic. Furthermore, from the ease of extending | stretching and the adhesiveness, C9-C21 is preferable, Furthermore, C11-C17, and especially 15 are preferable.
水酸基の基−O−M−R置換率は、67mol%以上であり、特に70mol%以上が好ましく、80mol%以上100mol%がより好ましい。基−O−M−Rの置換率は、油剤への溶解性を高める観点からは高い方が好ましいが、うるおい感やすべり性の観点からは、90mol%以下が好ましい。また、水酸基が適当に残留していることが、ざらつきのなさの点で好ましい。好ましい水酸基量は2〜33mol%、より好ましくは、5〜20mol%である。 The group-O-M-R substitution rate of the hydroxyl group is 67 mol% or more, particularly preferably 70 mol% or more, and more preferably 80 mol% or more and 100 mol%. The substitution rate of the group —O—M—R is preferably higher from the viewpoint of increasing the solubility in the oil, but is preferably 90 mol% or less from the viewpoint of moisture feeling and slipperiness. Moreover, it is preferable that the hydroxyl group remains appropriately in terms of no roughness. The preferred hydroxyl group content is 2 to 33 mol%, more preferably 5 to 20 mol%.
成分(A)のセルロース誘導体の重量平均分子量は、10万以上、更には20万以上が好ましく、400万以下、更には300万以下が好ましい。特に、溶解性、滑らかな感触が持続する点で、50万〜200万が好ましい。
なお、重量平均分子量(Mw)は、ゲルパーミエーションクロマトグラフィー(クロロホルム溶媒、直鎖ポリスチレンを標準として定められた較正曲線、屈折率検出器を用いる)測定によって求められるものである。
The weight-average molecular weight of the component (A) cellulose derivative is preferably 100,000 or more, more preferably 200,000 or more, and preferably 4 million or less, more preferably 3 million or less. In particular, 500,000 to 2,000,000 are preferable from the viewpoint that the solubility and the smooth feel are maintained.
In addition, a weight average molecular weight (Mw) is calculated | required by the gel permeation chromatography (The calibration curve defined using chloroform solvent and the linear polystyrene as a standard, and a refractive index detector) measurement.
このようなセルロース誘導体は、原料セルロース誘導体と、炭素数3〜40の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基を有する酸ハライドとを反応させ、原料セルロース誘導体の全水酸基の67mol%以上を置換することにより製造される。
また、MがCH2であるものは、塩基存在下に、セルロース誘導体と対応するアルキルハライドあるいはアルキルメシラート等のスルホン酸エステルを反応させることによって製造することができる。主鎖がセルロース骨格からなるものは、アセチルセルロースのエステル交換反応(アシドーリシス)によっても得ることができる。この方法によれば、水酸基の残留量が極めて低いセルロースエステル誘導体が得られる。
Such a cellulose derivative is obtained by reacting a raw material cellulose derivative with an acid halide having a linear or branched alkyl group or alkenyl group having 3 to 40 carbon atoms to replace 67 mol% or more of the total hydroxyl groups of the raw material cellulose derivative. It is manufactured by doing.
A compound in which M is CH 2 can be produced by reacting a cellulose derivative with a corresponding sulfonic acid ester such as alkyl halide or alkyl mesylate in the presence of a base. The main chain comprising a cellulose skeleton can also be obtained by transesterification (acidolysis) of acetylcellulose. According to this method, a cellulose ester derivative having a very low residual amount of hydroxyl groups can be obtained.
具体的には、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースベヘン酸エステル;ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースベヘン酸エステル;ヒドロキシエチルメチルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルメチルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルメチルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルメチルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルメチルセルロースベヘン酸エステル;ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースベヘン酸エステル等が挙げられる。中でも、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースラウリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースミリスチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースパルミチン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースステアリン酸エステル、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースベヘン酸エステルが好ましく、ヒドロキシエチルセルロースパルミチン酸エステルが特に好ましい。 Specifically, hydroxyethyl cellulose lauric acid ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose palmitic acid ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose stearic acid ester, hydroxyethyl cellulose behenic acid ester; hydroxypropyl cellulose lauric acid ester, hydroxypropyl cellulose myristic acid ester, hydroxy Propylcellulose palmitate, hydroxypropylcellulose stearate, hydroxypropylcellulose behenate; hydroxyethylmethylcellulose laurate, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose myristic ester, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose palmitate, hydroxyethyl Cylcellulose stearate, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose behenate; hydroxypropylmethylcellulose laurate, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose myristic acid, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose palmitate, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose stearate, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose behenate It is done. Of these, hydroxyethyl cellulose laurate, hydroxyethyl cellulose myristic acid, hydroxyethyl cellulose palmitate, hydroxyethyl cellulose stearate, and hydroxyethyl cellulose behenate are preferred, and hydroxyethyl cellulose palmitate is particularly preferred.
成分(A)のセルロース誘導体は、1種以上用いることができ、皮膚への塗布しやすさの観点から、本発明の油性化粧料中に0.1〜15質量%含有され、更に0.2〜5質量%含有するのが好ましい。この範囲であれば、後述の油剤との組み合わせから、塗布後のなめらかさがより持続する。 One or more cellulose derivatives of component (A) can be used, and from the viewpoint of ease of application to the skin, 0.1-15% by mass is contained in the oily cosmetic of the present invention, and 0.2 It is preferable to contain -5 mass%. If it is this range, the smoothness after application | coating will continue more from the combination with the below-mentioned oil agent.
本発明で用いる成分(B)は、25℃で液状のエステル油である。かかるエステル油としては、通常の化粧料に用いられるものであれば制限されず、例えば、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、イソステアリン酸イソプロピル、イソノナン酸イソノニル、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、ステアリン酸ブチル、オレイン酸オレイル、リシノレイン酸オクチルドデシル、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ヒドロキシステアリン酸オクチル、マカデミアナッツ油、オリーブ油、ヒマシ油、ホホバ油、アボガド油、ヒマワリ油、テトラオクタン酸ペンタエリスリチル等が挙げられる。 Component (B) used in the present invention is an ester oil that is liquid at 25 ° C. Such ester oils are not limited as long as they are used in ordinary cosmetics. For example, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, butyl stearate, oleic acid Oleyl, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, octyl hydroxystearate, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate It is done.
成分(B)のエステル油は、成分(A)のセルロース誘導体の良溶媒となり、成分(A)を可溶化するために好適であり、特に、分岐脂肪酸エステルが、成分(A)のセルロース誘導体を溶解しやすい点で好ましい。
分岐脂肪酸エステルとしては、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、イソステアリン酸イソプロピル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、イソノナン酸イソノニル、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、パルミチン酸2−エチルヘキシル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、オレイン酸オクチルドデシル、エルカ酸オクチルドデシル等が挙げられる。特に、分岐脂肪酸分岐アルコールエステルが好ましく、イソノナン酸イソノニル、イソノナン酸イソトリデシルがより好ましく、更に、イソノナン酸イソトリデシルが好ましい。
The ester oil of component (B) is a good solvent for the cellulose derivative of component (A) and is suitable for solubilizing component (A). In particular, the branched fatty acid ester is a cellulose derivative of component (A). It is preferable in terms of easy dissolution.
Examples of branched fatty acid esters include isopropyl myristate, isopropyl isostearate, diisostearyl malate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl oleate, octyldodecyl erucate, etc. Can be mentioned. In particular, branched fatty acid branched alcohol esters are preferable, isononyl isononanoate and isotridecyl isononanoate are more preferable, and isotridecyl isononanoate is more preferable.
成分(B)のエステル油は、1種以上用いることができ、成分(A)のセルロース誘導体の溶解性と油性化粧料の使用感(伸び、馴染み)の観点から、本発明の油性化粧料中に10〜80質量%含有され、好ましくは20〜60質量%含有される。 One or more ester oils of component (B) can be used. From the viewpoint of the solubility of the cellulose derivative of component (A) and the feeling of use (elongation, familiarity) of the oily cosmetic, 10 to 80% by mass, preferably 20 to 60% by mass.
本発明で用いる成分(C)のペースト油剤は、ダイマー酸エステル、ダイマージオール誘導体、コレステロール脂肪酸エステル、フィトステロール脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル及びペンタエリスリトール脂肪酸エステルから選ばれる1種以上の油剤である。
これらは構造が類似した物質の混合物であったり、多環式化合物のためにガラス転移温度が高いなどの理由から、部分的にしか結晶化しないため、25℃でペースト状(高粘度液体〜半固体)の外観・性状を示す。
The component (C) paste oil used in the present invention is at least one oil selected from dimer acid esters, dimer diol derivatives, cholesterol fatty acid esters, phytosterol fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, and pentaerythritol fatty acid esters.
Since these are a mixture of substances having similar structures or because of the high glass transition temperature due to the polycyclic compounds, they are only partially crystallized, so that they are pasty at 25 ° C. The appearance and properties of solid).
ダイマー酸エステルとしては、ダイマージリノール酸ダイマージリノレイルビス(ベヘニル/イソステアリル/フィトステリル)、ダイマージリノール酸ダイマージリノレイルビス(フィトステリル/イソステアリル/セチル/ステアリル/ベヘニル)等が挙げられ、例えば、Plandool−G、Plandool−H(以上、日本精化社)等の市販品を使用することができる。 Examples of dimer acid esters include dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl), dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), and the like. For example, commercially available products such as Plandool-G and Plandool-H (Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.) can be used.
ダイマージオール誘導体としては、ヒドロキシアルキル(C12-14)ヒドロキシダイマージリノレイル エーテル、ヒドロキシアルキル(C16-18)ヒドロキシダイマージリノレイル エーテル等が挙げられ、例えば、スーパーモルLM、スーパーモルPS(以上、クローダ社)等の市販品を使用することができる。 Examples of the dimer diol derivative include hydroxyalkyl (C12-14) hydroxy dimer linoleyl ether, hydroxyalkyl (C 16-18) hydroxy dimer linoleyl ether, and the like, for example, Supermol LM, Supermol PS (above, Commercial products such as Croda) can be used.
コレステロール脂肪酸エステルとしては、イソステアリン酸コレステリル、ヒドロキシステアリン酸コレステリル、マカデミアナッツ脂肪酸コレステリル、ラノリン脂肪酸コレステリル等が挙げられ、例えば、エキセパールIS−CE(花王社)、サラコスHS(日清オイリオ社)、YOFCO MAC、YOFCO CLE-S(以上、日本精化社)等の市販品を使用することができる。 Examples of cholesterol fatty acid esters include cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, macadamia nut fatty acid cholesteryl, lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, and the like, for example, Exepal IS-CE (Kao Corporation), Saracos HS (Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.), YOFCO MAC, Commercial products such as YOFCO CLE-S (Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.) can be used.
フィトステロール脂肪酸エステルとしては、オレイン酸フィトステリル、ダイマージリノール酸ダイマージリノレイルビス(ベヘニル/イソステアリル/フィトステリル)、ダイマージリノール酸(フィトステリル/イソステアリル/セチル/ステアリル/ベヘニル)、マカデミアナッツ油脂肪酸フィトステリル等が挙げられ、例えば、サラコスPO(日清オイリオ社)、YOFCO MAS、Plandool−G、Plandool−S、Plandool−H、(以上、日本精化社)等の市販品を使用することができる。 Examples of phytosterol fatty acid esters include phytosteryl oleate, dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl), dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl, etc. For example, commercially available products such as Saracos PO (Nisshin Oillio Co., Ltd.), YOFCO MAS, Plandool-G, Plandool-S, Plandool-H (Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.) can be used.
ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステルとしては、マカデミアナッツ油ポリグリセリル、(イソステアリン酸/ベヘン酸)(グリセリン/ポリグリセリル−6)エステルズ等が挙げられ、例えば、Sフェイス VL−211、VL−212(以上、阪本薬品工業社)等の市販品を使用することができる。 Examples of the polyglycerin fatty acid ester include macadamia nut oil polyglyceryl, (isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glycerin / polyglyceryl-6) esters, and the like, for example, S face VL-211, VL-212 (above, Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) Commercial products such as these can be used.
ペンタエリスリトール脂肪酸エステルとしては、ヘキサヒドロキシステアリン酸ジペンタエリスリチル、(ヒドロキシステアリン酸/イソステアリン酸)ジペンタエリスリチル、(ヒドロキシステアリン酸/ステアリン酸/ロジン酸)ジペンタエリスリチル等が挙げられ、例えば、コスモール168M、コスモール168E、コスモール168AR(日清オイリオ社)等の市販品を使用することができる。 Examples of pentaerythritol fatty acid esters include dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate, (hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid) dipentaerythrityl, (hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythrityl, and the like. Commercial products such as (Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.) can be used.
成分(C)としては、DSCで測定される析出開始温度が20〜55℃のものが好ましく、特に23〜45℃のものが好ましい。DSCの測定条件は、一度120℃まで10℃/minで昇温して10分保持後、5℃/minで−50℃まで冷却した際に検出されるピークの開始点である。 As a component (C), the thing whose precipitation start temperature measured by DSC is 20-55 degreeC is preferable, and the thing of 23-45 degreeC is especially preferable. The DSC measurement condition is the peak starting point detected when the temperature is raised to 120 ° C. at 10 ° C./min and held for 10 minutes and then cooled to −50 ° C. at 5 ° C./min.
成分(C)は、1種以上用いることができ、光沢付与と使用感の観点から、本発明の油性化粧料中に0.5〜50質量%、好ましくは3〜30質量%含有される。
また、成分(A)と成分(C)の質量割合は、(A)/(C)=0.002〜100、特に0.01〜50、更に0.05〜20であるのが、塗布時及び経時でのべたつきがない点で、より好ましい。
さらに、成分(B)と成分(C)の質量割合は、(B)/(C)=0.2〜160、特に0.5〜30であるのが、塗布時の伸びの良さ、塗布後の高い光沢の点で好ましい。
One or more types of component (C) can be used, and from the viewpoint of imparting gloss and feeling of use, the oily cosmetic of the present invention contains 0.5 to 50% by mass, preferably 3 to 30% by mass.
The mass ratio of the component (A) to the component (C) is (A) / (C) = 0.002 to 100, particularly 0.01 to 50, and more preferably 0.05 to 20 at the time of application. And it is more preferable at the point which does not have stickiness with time.
Furthermore, the mass ratio of the component (B) to the component (C) is (B) / (C) = 0.2 to 160, particularly 0.5 to 30. It is preferable in terms of high gloss.
本発明の油性化粧料は、さらに、(D)25℃で液状の炭化水素油を含有することが好ましい。かかる炭化水素油の具体例としては、軽質イソパラフィン、流動パラフィン、流動イソパラフィン、重質流動イソパラフィン、水添ポリイソブテン、水添ポリデセン、スクワラン等が挙げられる。 The oily cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains (D) a hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at 25 ° C. Specific examples of such hydrocarbon oils include light isoparaffin, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, heavy liquid isoparaffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, squalane and the like.
炭化水素油は、1種以上用いることができ、油性化粧料の滑らかさと塗布感の観点から、本発明の油性化粧料中に合計で5〜60質量%、特に15〜40質量%含有するのが好ましい。
また、成分(B)と炭化水素油の合計含有量は、油性化粧料の剤型によっても異なるが、20〜90質量%が好ましく、特に50〜90質量%が好ましい。
One or more kinds of hydrocarbon oils can be used, and from the viewpoint of the smoothness of the oily cosmetic and the feeling of application, the oily cosmetic of the present invention contains 5 to 60% by mass, particularly 15 to 40% by mass. Is preferred.
Moreover, although the total content of a component (B) and hydrocarbon oil changes also with dosage forms of oily cosmetics, 20-90 mass% is preferable, and 50-90 mass% is especially preferable.
本発明の油性化粧料は、更に、感触調整剤として、分岐脂肪酸、高級アルコール、シリコーン油を含有することができる。分岐脂肪酸としては、炭素数10〜32のもので、イソノナン酸、イソステアリン酸等が挙げられ、高級アルコールとしては、炭素数10〜30のもので、ラウリルアルコール、イソステアリルアルコール、オクチルドデカノール等が挙げられる。シリコーン油としては、ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、ジメチルシクロポリシロキサン、メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン等が挙げられる。 The oily cosmetic of the present invention can further contain a branched fatty acid, a higher alcohol, and a silicone oil as a feel modifier. Examples of branched fatty acids include those having 10 to 32 carbon atoms such as isononanoic acid and isostearic acid. Examples of higher alcohols include those having 10 to 30 carbon atoms such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol. Can be mentioned. Examples of the silicone oil include dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, dimethylcyclopolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane.
また、保形剤として、ワックス成分を含有することもできる。かかるワックス成分としては、例えば、キャンデリラロウ、ライスワックス、カルナウバロウ、木ロウ等の植物性ワックス;ミツロウ、鯨ロウ等の動物性ワックス;モンタンワックス、オゾケライト、セレシン等の鉱物系ワックス;マイクロクリスタリンワックス、パラフィン等の石油系ワックス;硬化ひまし油、水素添加ホホバ油、12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸、ステアリン酸アミド、無水フタル酸イミド、シリコーンワックス等の合成ワックス;ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、ベヘニン酸、ラノリン脂肪酸等の脂肪酸などが挙げられる。 Moreover, a wax component can also be contained as a shape-retaining agent. Examples of such wax components include plant waxes such as candelilla wax, rice wax, carnauba wax and tree wax; animal waxes such as beeswax and whale wax; mineral waxes such as montan wax, ozokerite and ceresin; microcrystalline wax Petroleum waxes such as paraffin; hardened castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, 12-hydroxystearic acid, stearamide, phthalic anhydride, silicone wax and other synthetic waxes; lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, Examples include fatty acids such as behenic acid and lanolin fatty acid.
このほか、色材として体質顔料、着色顔料、パール顔料等を含有することができる。
体質顔料としては、例えば、ケイ酸、無水ケイ酸、ケイ酸マグネシウム、タルク、セリサイト、マイカ、カオリン、クレー、ベントナイト、オキシ塩化ビスマス、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化マグネシウム、酸化アルミニウム、硫酸カルシウム、硫酸バリウム、硫酸マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム、炭酸マグネシウム等の無機顔料及びこれらの複合粉体が挙げられる。
In addition, extender pigments, colored pigments, pearl pigments and the like can be contained as colorants.
Examples of extender pigments include silicic acid, anhydrous silicic acid, magnesium silicate, talc, sericite, mica, kaolin, clay, bentonite, bismuth oxychloride, zirconium oxide, magnesium oxide, aluminum oxide, calcium sulfate, barium sulfate, Examples thereof include inorganic pigments such as magnesium sulfate, calcium carbonate, and magnesium carbonate, and composite powders thereof.
着色顔料としては、酸化チタン、酸化亜鉛、黄酸化鉄、ベンガラ、黒酸化鉄、酸化クロム、水酸化クロム等の金属酸化物、マンガンバイオレット、チタン酸コバルト等の金属錯体、更にカーボンブラック等の無機顔料、タール系色素、レーキ顔料等の有機顔料、カルミン等の天然色素などが挙げられる。 Color pigments include titanium oxide, zinc oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, metal oxides such as black iron oxide, chromium oxide and chromium hydroxide, metal complexes such as manganese violet and cobalt titanate, and inorganic materials such as carbon black. Examples thereof include organic pigments such as pigments, tar dyes and lake pigments, and natural dyes such as carmine.
パール顔料としては、雲母、合成金雲母、ガラス等の表面を酸化チタン、酸化鉄、酸化ケイ素、紺青酸化クロム、カルミン、有機顔料等の着色剤で被覆したものなどを用いることができる。 Examples of the pearl pigment include mica, synthetic phlogopite, and glass coated with a colorant such as titanium oxide, iron oxide, silicon oxide, bitumen chromium oxide, carmine, and organic pigment.
これらの色材は、通常の方法により、撥水処理、撥水・撥油化処理等の各種表面処理を施して用いても良い。 These color materials may be used after being subjected to various surface treatments such as water repellency treatment, water repellency / oil repellency treatment, and the like by ordinary methods.
さらに、本発明の油性化粧料は、前記成分以外に、通常の化粧料に用いられる成分、例えば、界面活性剤、アルコール、多価アルコール、高分子化合物、紫外線吸収剤、酸化防止剤、染料、香料、色素、防汚剤、保湿剤、水等を含有することができる。 Furthermore, the oily cosmetics of the present invention include, in addition to the above-mentioned components, components used in ordinary cosmetics, such as surfactants, alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, polymer compounds, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, dyes, A fragrance | flavor, a pigment | dye, an antifouling agent, a moisturizer, water etc. can be contained.
本発明の油性化粧料は、通常の方法により製造することができ、その剤型としては、固形、半固形、ゲル、液状等のいずれでも良い。 The oily cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a usual method, and the dosage form may be any of solid, semi-solid, gel, liquid and the like.
本発明の化粧料は、粘弾性測定において、法線応力を示す。法線応力とは、材料にせん断を与えた際に、せん段面に垂直方向に発生する面を押し広げるように働く応力である。具体的には、化粧料をガラスシャーレ中でスパチュラを用いて押しつぶし、ダマがなくなるまで、練りまぜた後、回転式粘弾性測定装置(例えば、アントンパール社製、MCR−301)を用い、直径25mmコーンプレート(CP25-2)、30℃にて、ずり速度0.001s-1から1000s-1までの間を対数軸で等分して19点を低ずり速度側から測定するとき、ずり速度1000s-1までに10Pa以上の第1法線応力差N1を示す。好ましい方線応力の範囲は1000s-1において、50〜10000Pa、更に100〜5000Pa、特に300〜3000Paである。法線応力が50Pa未満では、うるおい感が低下し、ざらつきを感じる傾向がある。一方、法線応力が10000Paを超えると、感触が重くなったり、糸引きを生じたりする場合がある。 The cosmetic of the present invention exhibits normal stress in viscoelasticity measurement. The normal stress is a stress that acts to spread a surface generated in a direction perpendicular to the step surface when shear is applied to the material. Specifically, the cosmetic is crushed with a spatula in a glass petri dish, and kneaded until there is no lumps. Then, using a rotary viscoelasticity measuring device (for example, MCR-301, manufactured by Anton Paar), the diameter 25mm cone plate (CP25-2), at 30 ° C., when measuring between the shear rate 0.001s -1 to 1000 s -1 the 19 points equally divided in a logarithmic scale from a low shear rate side, shear rate A first normal stress difference N1 of 10 Pa or more is shown up to 1000 s −1 . A preferable range of the normal stress is 50 to 10,000 Pa, further 100 to 5000 Pa, particularly 300 to 3000 Pa at 1000 s −1 . When the normal stress is less than 50 Pa, the moist feeling decreases and the surface tends to feel rough. On the other hand, when the normal stress exceeds 10,000 Pa, the touch may become heavy or stringing may occur.
本発明の油性化粧料は、皮膚、口唇、睫毛、爪、毛髪に使用され、油剤を連続相とする化粧料である。口紅、リップグロス、リップライナー等の口唇化粧料や、マスカラ、アイライナー、アイシャドウ、チーク、ファンデーション、コンシーラー等のメイクアップ化粧料、クリーム、乳液、美容液、マッサージ剤、デオドラント、サンスクリーン、育毛剤、ヘアカラー、ヘアワックス、ヘアフォームなどとすることができ、特に、口唇化粧料として好適である。 The oily cosmetic of the present invention is a cosmetic that is used for skin, lips, eyelashes, nails, and hair, and has an oil agent as a continuous phase. Lip cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, makeup cosmetics such as mascara, eyeliner, eye shadow, teak, foundation, concealer, cream, milky lotion, essence, massage agent, deodorant, sunscreen, hair growth Agent, hair color, hair wax, hair foam and the like, and is particularly suitable as a lip cosmetic.
製造例1(セルロース誘導体1の製造)
窒素下クロロホルム中室温で10g(16.6×10-6mol)のヒドロキシプロピルセルロース(セルニーM;日本曹達社製)に、100gのピリジン(1.26mol)を加えて溶解させた。50g(0.172mol)の塩化パルミトイルを0.5時間かけて滴下した。その後50℃で15時間反応させ、メタノール中で沈殿させて精製し、乾燥させると、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロースパルミチン酸エステルが得られた。(重量平均分子量87万、平均アシル置換度は全水酸基の85mol%)
Production Example 1 (Production of cellulose derivative 1)
100 g of pyridine (1.26 mol) was added to and dissolved in 10 g (16.6 × 10 −6 mol) of hydroxypropylcellulose (Selney M; manufactured by Nippon Soda Co., Ltd.) at room temperature in chloroform under nitrogen. 50 g (0.172 mol) of palmitoyl chloride was added dropwise over 0.5 hours. Thereafter, the mixture was reacted at 50 ° C. for 15 hours, precipitated in methanol, purified, and dried to obtain hydroxypropylcellulose palmitate. (Weight average molecular weight 870,000, average acyl substitution degree is 85 mol% of all hydroxyl groups)
(重量平均分子量の測定)
重合体の平均分子量(Mw)は、ゲル・パーミエーション・クロマトグラフィー(GPC)によって測定した。示差屈折検出器、カラムはGMHHR-Hを接続したものを用いた。サンプルは、溶離液で0.5g/100mLの濃度に調整し、20μLを用いた。溶離液には、1mmol/Lのジメチルラウリルアミンを含むクロロホルムを使用した。カラム温度は40℃で、流速は1.0mL/分で行った。
(Measurement of weight average molecular weight)
The average molecular weight (Mw) of the polymer was measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC). A differential refraction detector and a column connected to GMHHR-H were used. The sample was adjusted to a concentration of 0.5 g / 100 mL with an eluent, and 20 μL was used. As the eluent, chloroform containing 1 mmol / L dimethyllaurylamine was used. The column temperature was 40 ° C. and the flow rate was 1.0 mL / min.
(平均アシル(エステル)置換度の測定)
セルロース誘導体を約0.5g精秤し、5N水酸化ナトリウム4mL及びエタノール25mLを加え、約90℃で5時間還流し、完全にエステルを加水分解した。水を30g加え、約90℃で5時間還流した後、リン酸で中和し、完全に中和されていることをpH試験紙で確認した。テトラヒドロフラン70gを加え30分撹拌、3時間室温で静置した後に、上澄み液を、日立L-7000型高速液体クロマトグラフィーを使用し、脂肪酸の量を測定した。検出器は日立L-7400(UV測定)を用い、210nmの波長で測定し、溶離液にはTHF:水:リン酸=60:39:1を使用した。
(Measurement of average acyl (ester) substitution degree)
About 0.5 g of the cellulose derivative was precisely weighed, 4 mL of 5N sodium hydroxide and 25 mL of ethanol were added, and the mixture was refluxed at about 90 ° C. for 5 hours to completely hydrolyze the ester. After adding 30 g of water and refluxing at about 90 ° C. for 5 hours, it was neutralized with phosphoric acid, and it was confirmed with pH test paper that it was completely neutralized. After adding 70 g of tetrahydrofuran and stirring for 30 minutes and allowing to stand at room temperature for 3 hours, the amount of fatty acid was measured for the supernatant using Hitachi L-7000 high performance liquid chromatography. The detector used was Hitachi L-7400 (UV measurement) and measured at a wavelength of 210 nm, and THF: water: phosphoric acid = 60: 39: 1 was used as the eluent.
(ペースト油剤の析出開始温度の測定)
試料を36mg取り、DSC用アルミセル(AL70-CAPSULE;エポリードサービス社)に入れ蓋をする。DSC EXSTAR6100(セイコーインスツルメント社)にて、リファレンスを同量のα-アルミナを用い、熱容量分析を行った。一度120℃まで10℃/minのスピードで昇温した後10分間保持し、5℃/minの速度で冷却する際に、立ち上がりのピークを析出開始温度とした。
(Measurement of paste oil starting temperature)
Take 36 mg of the sample, put it in the aluminum cell for DSC (AL70-CAPSULE; Eporide Service) and cover it. A heat capacity analysis was performed using DSC EXSTAR 6100 (Seiko Instruments Inc.) using the same amount of α-alumina as a reference. Once the temperature was raised to 120 ° C. at a speed of 10 ° C./min, the temperature was held for 10 minutes, and when cooling at a rate of 5 ° C./min, the peak of rising was taken as the deposition start temperature.
実施例1(口紅)
(成分)
(1)セルロース誘導体1(製造例1) 3.0(質量%)
(2)マイクロクリスタリンワックス
(マルチワックス W−445、SONNEBORN, INC製) 3.0
(3)パラフィン(HNP−9、日本精鑞社製) 5.0
(4)セレシン(セレシン#810(日興リカ社製) 4.0
(5)イソノナン酸イソトリデシル 10.0
(6)ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール 20.0
(7)リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル 10.0
(8)ホホバ油 10.0
(9)スクワラン 6.0
(10)水添ポリデセン
(SILKFLO 364NF(LIPO CHEMICALS, INC製) 6.0
(11)水添ポリイソブテン(パールリーム24、日本油脂社製) 5.0
(12)オクチルドデカノール 5.0
(13)酸化チタン 1.0
(14)酸化鉄 0.3
(15)赤色201号 0.2
(16)赤色202号 0.4
(17)青色1号Al 0.1
(18)黄色4号Al 1.0
(19)ダイマージリノール酸ダイマージリノレイルビス
(ベヘニル/イソステアリル/フィトステリル)
(Plandool−G、日本精化社製、析出開始温度28.6℃) 10.0
Example 1 (lipstick)
(component)
(1) Cellulose derivative 1 (Production Example 1) 3.0 (mass%)
(2) Microcrystalline wax (Multiwax W-445, manufactured by SONNEBORN, INC) 3.0
(3) Paraffin (HNP-9, manufactured by Nippon Seiki Co., Ltd.) 5.0
(4) Ceresin (Cerecin # 810 (manufactured by Nikko Rica) 4.0)
(5) Isotridecyl isononanoate 10.0
(6) Neopentyl glycol dicaprate 20.0
(7) Diisostearyl malate 10.0
(8) Jojoba oil 10.0
(9) Squalane 6.0
(10) Hydrogenated polydecene (SILKFLO 364NF (manufactured by LIPO CHEMICALS, INC)) 6.0
(11) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Pearl Reme 24, manufactured by NOF Corporation) 5.0
(12) Octyldodecanol 5.0
(13) Titanium oxide 1.0
(14) Iron oxide 0.3
(15) Red 201 No. 0.2
(16) Red No. 202 0.4
(17) Blue No.1 Al 0.1
(18) Yellow No. 4 Al 1.0
(19) Dimer dilinoleic acid dimer dilinoleyl bis (behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl)
(Plandool-G, manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd., precipitation starting temperature 28.6 ° C.) 10.0
(製造方法)
基剤原料(色材以外)を90℃で加熱融解して均一に混合した。次に、これに色材原料を加えて加熱状態でディスパーザーにて均一に分散させ、脱泡した後、型に流し込んで、口紅を得た。
(Production method)
The base material (other than the coloring material) was heated and melted at 90 ° C. and mixed uniformly. Next, a coloring material raw material was added thereto, and the mixture was uniformly dispersed with a disperser in a heated state, defoamed, and then poured into a mold to obtain a lipstick.
得られた口紅は、塗布時の伸ばしやすさ、塗布直後及び経時での光沢、塗布直後及び経時でのべたつきのなさにおいて優れていた。 The obtained lipstick was excellent in ease of stretching at the time of application, gloss immediately after application and with time, and no stickiness immediately after application and with time.
実施例2
実施例1において、成分(19)を、オレイン酸フィトステリル(サラコスPO(T);日清オイリオ社製、析出開始温度26.4℃)に代える以外は同様にして、口紅を得る。
得られる口紅は、塗布時の伸ばしやすさ、塗布直後及び経時での光沢、塗布直後及び経時でのべたつきのなさにおいて優れる。
Example 2
A lipstick is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that component (19) is replaced with phytosteryl oleate (Saracos PO (T); Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd., precipitation starting temperature 26.4 ° C.).
The resulting lipstick is excellent in easiness of spreading at the time of application, gloss immediately after application and over time, and no stickiness immediately after application and over time.
実施例3
実施例1において、成分(19)を、イソステアリン酸コレステリル(エキセパール IS−CE;花王社製、析出開始温度31.0℃)に代える以外は同様にして、口紅を得る。
得られる口紅は、塗布時の伸ばしやすさ、塗布直後及び経時での光沢、塗布直後及び経時でのべたつきのなさにおいて優れる。
Example 3
A lipstick is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that component (19) is replaced with cholesteryl isostearate (Exepal IS-CE; manufactured by Kao Corporation, precipitation starting temperature: 31.0 ° C.).
The resulting lipstick is excellent in easiness of spreading at the time of application, gloss immediately after application and over time, and no stickiness immediately after application and over time.
実施例4
実施例1において、成分(19)を、マカデミアナッツ油ポリグリセリル−6エステルズベヘネート(SフェイスVL−211;阪本薬品工業社製、析出開始温度41.7℃)に代える以外は同様にして、口紅を得る。
得られる口紅は、塗布時の伸ばしやすさ、塗布直後及び経時での光沢、塗布直後及び経時でのべたつきのなさにおいて優れる。
Example 4
In the same manner as in Example 1, except that the component (19) is replaced with macadamia nut oil polyglyceryl-6 ester sub behenate (S face VL-211; manufactured by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd., precipitation starting temperature 41.7 ° C.), lipstick Get.
The resulting lipstick is excellent in easiness of spreading at the time of application, gloss immediately after application and over time, and no stickiness immediately after application and over time.
実施例5
実施例1において、成分(19)を、ヘキサヒドロキシステアリン酸ジペンタエリスリチル(コスモール168M;日清オイリオ社製、析出開始温度24.3℃)に代える以外は同様にして、口紅を得る。
得られる口紅は、塗布時の伸ばしやすさ、塗布直後及び経時での光沢、塗布直後及び経時でのべたつきのなさにおいて優れる。
Example 5
A lipstick is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that component (19) is replaced with dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate (Cosmol 168M; Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd., precipitation starting temperature 24.3 ° C.).
The resulting lipstick is excellent in easiness of spreading at the time of application, gloss immediately after application and over time, and no stickiness immediately after application and over time.
Claims (4)
(A)主鎖にセルロース骨格を有し、全水酸基の67mol%以上が基−O-M-R(MはCH2又はカルボニル基C=Oを示し、Rは炭素数3〜40の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基又はアルケニル基を示す)で置換されているセルロース誘導体 0.2〜5質量%、
(B)25℃で液状のエステル油 20〜60質量%、
(C)ダイマー酸エステル、ダイマージオール誘導体、コレステロール脂肪酸エステル、フィトステロール脂肪酸エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル及びペンタエリスリトール脂肪酸エステルから選ばれる1種以上のペースト油剤 3〜30質量%
を含有する油性化粧料。 The following components (A), (B) and (C):
(A) The main chain has a cellulose skeleton, and 67 mol% or more of all hydroxyl groups are a group —O—M—R (M is CH 2 or a carbonyl group C═O, and R is a straight chain having 3 to 40 carbon atoms. Or 0.2 to 5 % by mass of a cellulose derivative substituted with a branched chain alkyl group or alkenyl group),
(B) 20-60 % by mass of ester oil which is liquid at 25 ° C.
(C) One or more paste oil agents selected from dimer acid esters, dimer diol derivatives, cholesterol fatty acid esters, phytosterol fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters and pentaerythritol fatty acid esters 3 to 30 % by mass
Containing oily cosmetics.
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KR1020117001292A KR101652536B1 (en) | 2008-09-25 | 2009-09-24 | Oil-based cosmetic preparation |
CN2009801365645A CN102159177B (en) | 2008-09-25 | 2009-09-24 | Oil-based cosmetic preparation |
US13/120,713 US8580284B2 (en) | 2008-09-25 | 2009-09-24 | Oil-based cosmetic preparation |
PCT/JP2009/067137 WO2010035893A2 (en) | 2008-09-25 | 2009-09-24 | Oil-based cosmetic preparation |
EP09736695.9A EP2341890B1 (en) | 2008-09-25 | 2009-09-24 | Oil-based cosmetic preparation |
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JP6144476B2 (en) * | 2011-11-08 | 2017-06-07 | 株式会社コーセー | Lip cosmetics |
KR101987624B1 (en) * | 2012-05-14 | 2019-06-12 | 존슨 앤드 존슨 컨수머 캄파니즈, 인코포레이티드 | Radiance compositions and methods of use |
JP6169841B2 (en) * | 2012-07-18 | 2017-07-26 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Semi-solid cosmetic |
JP6309825B2 (en) * | 2014-05-28 | 2018-04-11 | 花王株式会社 | Oily cosmetics |
JP6886276B2 (en) * | 2016-11-30 | 2021-06-16 | 花王株式会社 | Lip cosmetics |
JP7014396B2 (en) * | 2017-08-02 | 2022-02-01 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | Oil-based solid cosmetics |
JP7157431B2 (en) * | 2017-12-15 | 2022-10-20 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | oily solid cosmetics |
JP7201335B2 (en) * | 2018-05-15 | 2023-01-10 | 花王株式会社 | oily cosmetics |
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