JP4936380B2 - Hair protectant and hair treatment method - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a hair protecting agent that is applied to hair before treatment with a hair deforming agent and imparts softness to the hair after the treatment, and a hair treatment method using the hair protecting agent.

  In general, hair deforming agents such as permanent wave agents and hair straightening agents are composed of a first agent containing a reducing agent and a second agent containing an oxidizing agent.

  When hair is treated with the above-mentioned hair deforming agent, first, the disulfide bond in the hair is cleaved by the first reducing agent, and then the disulfide bond cleaved by the reducing agent by the second oxidizing agent is regenerated. The desired hair shape is formed.

  However, when the hair deformation treatment is performed by the mechanism as described above, since the disulfide bond is broken, the hair is damaged, and there is a problem that a hard touch is increased on the treated hair.

  Attempts have also been made to solve such problems. For example, Patent Literature 1 and Patent Literature 2 disclose a technique in which a hair treatment agent configured by combining a specific polymer and other components is applied to hair before permanent wave treatment. In patent document 1 and patent document 2, it is supposed that the hair, especially a hair tip can be protected at the time of permanent wave processing by applying the said hair treatment agent.

JP 7-501559 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-53337

  However, when a hair treatment agent as disclosed in Patent Document 1 or Patent Document 2 is applied to the hair and then subjected to hair deformation treatment, penetration of the reducing agent in the hair deformation agent into the hair is inhibited, There is a risk that the state of the wave and the straight stretch will weaken. Moreover, even such conventional hair treatment agents are not yet satisfactory in terms of imparting softness to the hair after the hair deformation treatment.

  The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a hair protecting agent for applying to the hair before the hair deformation treatment with the hair deforming agent, and reducing the deformation action by the hair deforming agent. An object of the present invention is to provide a hair protecting agent capable of imparting softness to the hair after the deformation treatment and a hair treatment method using the hair protecting agent.

  As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that a hair protecting agent composed of a combination of at least three specific higher alcohols can be applied to the hair before the deformation treatment with the hair deforming agent. The present inventors have found that it is possible to impart a good softness to the hair after the treatment while suppressing a reduction of the deformation action as much as possible to enable a good deformation treatment, thereby completing the present invention.

  That is, the hair protecting agent of the present invention is applied to hair before hair deformation treatment using a hair deforming agent composed of a first agent containing a reducing agent and a second agent containing an oxidizing agent. A straight-chain higher alcohol (A) having 12 to 14 carbon atoms [hereinafter simply described as “linear higher alcohol (A)”], a straight-chain type having 15 to 18 carbon atoms Higher alcohol (B) [hereinafter simply described as “linear higher alcohol (B)”] and linear higher alcohol (C) having 19 to 22 carbon atoms [hereinafter simply referred to as “linear higher alcohol” (C) ”is included].

  In addition, the hair treatment method of the present invention includes a first agent containing a reducing agent and an oxidant containing a second oxidizing agent without washing the hair protecting agent after the hair protecting agent of the present invention is applied to the hair. The hair is deformed by using a hair deforming agent composed of an agent.

  According to the present invention, even when applied to the hair before the deformation treatment with the hair deforming agent, the hair after the deformation treatment has a good softness while suppressing the reduction of the deformation action by the hair deforming agent as much as possible. A hair protecting agent that can be applied can be provided. And according to the processing method of this invention, a deformation | transformation process can be performed favorably, providing softness to hair.

  The hair protecting agent of the present invention is applied to the hair before a deformation treatment with a hair deforming agent composed of a first agent containing a reducing agent and a second agent containing an oxidizing agent.

  The hair protecting agent of the present invention contains at least three kinds of linear higher alcohols (A), (B) and (C). The linear higher alcohol (A) has 12 to 14 carbon atoms, and specific examples include lauryl alcohol and myristyl alcohol. The linear higher alcohol (B) has 15 to 18 carbon atoms, and specific examples include cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. The linear higher alcohol (C) has 19 to 22 carbon atoms, and specific examples include behenyl alcohol. The hair protecting agent may contain one type of each of the linear higher alcohols (A), (B) and (C), or may contain two or more types.

  The total content (total blending amount) of the linear higher alcohols (A), (B) and (C) in the hair protecting agent is from the viewpoint of more effectively exerting the action of the use of these linear higher alcohols. It is preferably 2% by mass or more, and more preferably 4% by mass or more. In addition, if the amount of the linear higher alcohol in the hair protecting agent is too large, the hair protecting agent becomes hard and uniform application to the hair may be difficult. The total content (total blending amount) of the alcohols (A), (B) and (C) is preferably 15% by mass or less, and more preferably 10% by mass or less.

  Furthermore, the content ratios of the linear higher alcohols (A), (B) and (C) in the hair protecting agent are as follows from the viewpoint of more effectively exerting the effects of their use. preferable. When the content (blending amount) of the linear higher alcohol (B) in the hair protecting agent is 100 parts by mass, the content (blending amount) of the linear higher alcohol (A) is preferably 30 parts by mass or more. More preferably, it is 40 parts by mass or more, preferably 400 parts by mass or less, more preferably 200 parts by mass or less, and the content (blending amount) of the linear higher alcohol (C) is preferably 30 parts by mass. Part or more, more preferably 40 parts by weight or more, preferably 400 parts by weight or less, more preferably 200 parts by weight or less.

  Further, higher alcohols other than the linear higher alcohols (A), (B) and (C) can be blended in the hair protecting agent. Examples of higher alcohols other than linear higher alcohols (A), (B) and (C) include branched higher alcohols such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, hexyldecanol, and dodecyltetradecanol; oleyl alcohol, reno Various alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as unsaturated higher alcohols such as rail alcohol; Among these, branched higher alcohols such as octyldodecanol are more preferable in that the action of the hair protecting agent of the present invention can be further improved.

  The hair protecting agent of the present invention is an emulsified composition, and it is preferable that a cationic surfactant is blended as an emulsifier. Examples of the cationic surfactant include monoalkyl quaternary ammonium salts, fatty acid amidoamine salts, dialkyl quaternary ammonium salts, trialkyl quaternary ammonium salts, benzalkonium quaternary ammonium salts, Examples thereof include monoalkyl ether type quaternary ammonium salts and cyclic quaternary ammonium salts (such as alkyl pyridinium salts).

  Among the above-mentioned cationic surfactants, monoalkyl type quaternary ammonium salts are preferable in that the function of imparting softness to the hair after treatment with the hair protecting agent can be further enhanced. Examples of the monoalkyl type quaternary ammonium salt include lauryl trimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl trimethyl ammonium bromide, cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, stearyl trimethyl ammonium bromide and the like. These cationic surfactants may be blended in combination, or may be blended in combination of chloride and bromide. Moreover, you may mix | blend monoalkyl type | mold quaternary ammonium salt in combination with another kind of cationic surfactant.

  It is preferable that the compounding quantity of the cationic surfactant in a hair protective agent is 0.1-5 mass%.

  Further, a surfactant other than the cationic surfactant, that is, a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, or an anionic surfactant can be added to the hair protecting agent. Among these, nonionic surfactants are more preferable in that the emulsification stability of the hair protecting agent can be further improved.

  Nonionic surfactants include, for example, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene sterol, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbit fatty acid ester , Polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, alkyl polyglycoside, N-alkyldimethylamine oxide, etc. Among these, each HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) value is In this, it may be formulated by selecting a suitable surfactant.

  Examples of the amphoteric surfactant include a glycine type amphoteric surfactant, an aminopropionic acid type amphoteric surfactant, an aminoacetic acid betaine type amphoteric surfactant, and a sulfobetaine type amphoteric surfactant. Examples of the anionic surfactant include alkyl sulfate, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate, alkyl ether carboxylate, acyl amino acid salt, aliphatic alkanolamide sulfate, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphate, alkyl sulfosuccinate. Examples of the salt include sodium salt, potassium salt, ammonium salt, and triethanolamine salt.

  Moreover, since it is recommended that the hair protecting agent of this invention is an emulsion type composition as above-mentioned, it is preferable that water is also mix | blended. The amount of water in the hair protecting agent is preferably 70 to 95% by mass, for example.

  In the hair protecting agent of the present invention, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired, in addition to the above-described components, conditioning agents such as polymer compounds, solvents, polyhydric alcohols, hydrocarbons, animal and vegetable oils, etc. Oils, waxes, fatty acids, pH adjusters, inorganic and organic acids, esters, silicones, sugars, plant and seaweed extracts, amino acids and proteins or their derivatives, UV protection agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives A chelating agent or the like can be appropriately blended.

  Among the conditioning agents, examples of the polymer compound include quaternized cellulose (eg, O- [2-hydroxy-3- (trimethylammonio) propyl] hydroxyethylcellulose chloride), O- [2-hydroxy-3-chloride]. (Trimethylammonio) propyl] guar gum, vinylpyrrolidone / N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer diethyl sulfate, polydimethylmethylenepiperidinium chloride, diallyl quaternary ammonium salt as a structural unit ( Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer, acrylamide / acrylic acid / dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymer), acrylic acid / acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, cationized starch, cationized polymer Cationic polymers such as peptides; acrylic acid / acrylamide / ethyl acrylate copolymer, acrylic acid alkyl ester / methacrylic acid alkyl ester / diacetone acrylamide / methacrylic acid copolymer, acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer, Anionic polymers such as acrylic resin alkanolamine and carboxyvinyl polymer; Nonionic polymers such as cellulose, guar gum, dextrin, methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethyldextran; and the like. Examples of other conditioning agents include natural or synthetic ceramides, cholesterol, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, lanolin and derivatives thereof, and the like. In the hair protecting agent of the present invention, the above-described conditioning agent (polymer compound) is obtained by the action of containing the linear higher alcohols (A), (B) and (C) in combination. ) Can also be used to suppress the reduction of the deformation action of the hair deforming agent.

  Examples of the solvent include ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and the like. Examples of the polyhydric alcohol include ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin and the like.

  Examples of the hydrocarbon include liquid paraffin, light liquid isoparaffin, squalane, and microcrystalline wax. Examples of the oils and fats include macadamia nut oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, castor oil, avocado oil, wasabi seed oil, olive oil, hydrogenated oil, and the like. Examples of waxes include beeswax, candelilla wax, jojoba oil, and lanolin.

  Examples of the fatty acid include lanolinic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and the like. Examples of the pH adjusting agent include acids such as citric acid, glycolic acid, phosphoric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and lactic acid; alkaline agents such as ammonia, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, and arginine.

  Examples of the esters include di-2-ethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, and the like. Examples of silicones include dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, polyether-modified silicone, and amino-modified silicone. Examples of the saccharide include sorbitol, mannitol, glucose, sucrose, fructose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and the like.

  Examples of amino acids and proteins or derivatives thereof include glycine, alanine, leucine, valine, serine, proline, aspartic acid, arginine, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, collagen, keratin, silk fibroin, wheat peptide, casein or a derivative thereof, etc. Is mentioned. Examples of the UV protection agent include titanium oxide and octyl paramethoxycinnamate. Examples of the chelating agent include alanine, edetic acid, disodium edetate, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, hydroxyethanediphosphonic acid, and the like. Examples of the antioxidant include d1-α-tocophenol, dibutylhydroxytoluene, erythorbic acid, anhydrous sodium sulfite and the like.

  In treating hair using the hair protecting agent of the present invention, after the hair protecting agent is applied to the hair, the hair is deformed without being washed away. For the hair deformation treatment, a hair deformation agent composed of a first agent containing a reducing agent and a second agent containing an oxidizing agent is applied. Specifically, for such a hair deformation agent, a permanent is used. Wave agents and hair straighteners are included, and conventionally known two-component permanent wave agents and hair straighteners can be used.

  Examples of the reducing agent that can be used for the first agent relating to the hair deforming agent include mercapto groups such as thioglycolic acid, ammonium thioglycolate, L-cysteine, acetylcysteine, cysteamine, thioglycerin, and glyceryl monothioglycolate. Compounds containing; inorganic reducing sulfur compounds such as sodium sulfite and sodium hydrogen sulfite; and the like. The blending amount of the reducing agent in the first agent is preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 2% by mass or more, preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 11% by mass or less.

  Moreover, an alkali agent, a chelating agent, an anti-inflammatory agent, a reaction modifier, etc. are normally mix | blended with a 1st agent.

  Examples of the alkaline agent include amino alcohols such as ammonia and monoethanolamine; neutral salts such as ammonium hydrogen carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate and ammonium hydrogen phosphate; basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine; sodium hydroxide and water. And inorganic alkalis such as potassium oxide. Examples of the chelating agent include diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid and its salt, edetic acid and its salt, sodium polyphosphate, gluconic acid, sodium polyphosphate, sodium citrate, gluconic acid, tartaric acid, hydroxyethanediphosphonic acid and its salt, etc. Can be mentioned. Anti-inflammatory agents include, for example, glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, carbenoxolone and their derivatives, allantoin, guaiazulene, plant extracts having various anti-inflammatory effects (such as chamomile extract, gentian extract, urgonum extract, perilla extract, maronier extract, etc.) Is mentioned. Examples of the reaction modifier include dithiodiglycolic acid and its ammonium salt, cystine and the like.

  The reducing agent according to the first agent and other components that are usually blended can be blended by combining a plurality of exemplified compounds. Particularly for alkaline agents, ammonium bicarbonate and / or arginine, ammonia, monoethanolamine, from the point of adjusting the pH of the first agent and the reaction time (also referred to as softening time and first agent leaving time). The combination of is preferable.

  As an oxidizing agent which can be used for the 2nd agent which concerns on a hair deformation agent, potassium bromate, sodium bromate, sodium perborate, hydrogen peroxide etc. are mentioned, for example. The blending amount of the oxidizing agent in the second agent is preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 2% by mass or more, preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less.

  Moreover, a chelating agent, a pH adjuster, etc. are normally mix | blended with a 2nd agent. Examples of the chelating agent include various chelating agents exemplified as those usable for the first agent. In particular, when hydrogen peroxide is used as an oxidizing agent, it is preferable to use hydroxyethanediphosphonic acid or a salt thereof as a chelating agent from the viewpoint of improving the stability. There is no restriction | limiting in particular about a pH adjuster, For example, the combination of organic acid or inorganic acid, and those salts common as a pH adjuster of cosmetics is mentioned.

  In addition to the various components described above, the first agent and the second agent of the hair deforming agent can be appropriately blended with components that can be usually blended in cosmetics as necessary. Examples of such components include various surfactants, polyhydric alcohols, hydrocarbons, higher fatty acids, esters, oils and fats (eg, animal and vegetable oils), waxes, ethers, higher alcohols, and hydrolysates of proteins derived from animals and plants. And derivatives thereof, amino acids, vitamins, silicones and derivatives thereof, penetrants, polymer compounds, preservatives, stabilizers, colorants, UV inhibitors, antioxidants, plant / seaweed extract, fragrances and the like.

  As described above, the hair deforming agent includes a permanent wave agent and a curly hair straightening agent. More specifically, for example, as a permanent wave agent, a wave is imparted to hair at room temperature. The so-called cold-type permanent wave agent, and the so-called warm-type permanent wave agent for imparting waves to the hair under heating, are also mentioned. So-called cold curly hair straightening agent for straightening and straightening, so-called warming hair straightening agent for straightening and curling straight hair under heating, and high-temperature hair-styling iron A warming hair straightening agent using And according to such a use, a suitable thing is selected from the various compounding components shown previously, and the 1st agent and 2nd by the method similar to the preparation method of a well-known permanent wave agent and a hair straightening agent. An agent can be prepared to obtain a hair deforming agent used after application of the hair protecting agent of the present invention.

  In treating the hair using the hair protecting agent of the present invention, the hair protecting agent of the present invention is first applied to the hair, and then the hair may be subsequently subjected to a deformation treatment with the hair deforming agent without washing it off. . The hair deformation treatment can be performed by the same method as a treatment method using a conventionally known permanent wave agent or curly hair straightening agent. By such a hair treatment method, it is possible to make the treated hair feel soft while applying a wave to the hair or straightening the hair.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on examples. However, the following examples are not intended to limit the present invention, and all modifications made without departing from the spirit of the preceding and following descriptions are included in the technical scope of the present invention. In Table 1 below, the total amount of each of the ingredients is 100% for the entire hair protecting agent, in Table 2 for the entire permanent wave agent 1st agent, and in Table 3 for the entire permanent wave agent 2nd agent. Although the blending amount is shown in%, all the percentages are mass%. In these tables, the% is omitted and only the numerical value representing the blending amount is displayed.

Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2
Hair protectants of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 were prepared with the compositions shown in Table 1.

  In Table 1, “with a total of 100” in the column of purified water means that the total amount of each component other than purified water constituting the hair protecting agent is 100% by adding the amount of purified water. Means. In Table 1, “POE” is an abbreviation of “polyoxyethylene”, and the numerical value in parentheses after “POE” means the number of added moles of ethylene oxide (number of added moles of oxyethylene unit). .

  The hair protection agent of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was used to treat the hair. For the hair to be treated, the hair collected from the healthy hair of the same person is made into a hair bundle having a length of 19.0 cm and a weight of 0.5 g. One agent ["Promatis Flave 9-35 (trade name)" manufactured by Milbon] and 2nd oxidative hair dye ["Promatis Flave Oxidan 6% (trade name)" manufactured by Milbon] are 1 in mass ratio. A mixture of 1 was used, and a hair dyeing treatment that was allowed to stand at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 30 minutes was repeated three times, and the same number of examples and comparative examples were used.

  1 g of a hair protecting agent is applied to each of the hair after the hair dyeing treatment, and then wound around a rod having a diameter of 12 mm for about 5 times, and then 3 mL of the permanent wave agent first agent prepared with the composition shown in Table 2 is used. After each application, leave at 35 ° C for 15 minutes, rinse with water, then apply 3 mL each of the permanent wave agent 2 prepared with the composition shown in Table 3 and leave at room temperature for 10 minutes to complete the permanent wave treatment. did.

  In Table 2, “with a total of 100” in the column of purified water is 100% by adding the amount of purified water to the total amount of components other than purified water constituting the permanent wave agent first agent. It means that I did it. Moreover, in Table 3, “with a total of 100” in the column of purified water means 100% by adding the amount of purified water to the total amount of each component other than purified water constituting the permanent wave agent second agent. It means that it became to become.

  The “appropriate amount” of ammonia water in Table 2 means that the ammonia water was used so that the pH of the first agent for permanent wave agent was the value shown in Table 1, and phosphoric acid in Table 3 was used. The “appropriate amount” of sodium hydrogen phosphate means that phosphoric acid and sodium hydrogen phosphate were used so that the pH of the second agent for permanent wave agent was the value shown in Table 2. Furthermore, the ammonium thioglycolate in Table 2 is an aqueous solution, and “(50%)” is the concentration of thioglycolic acid (50% by mass) in the aqueous ammonium thioglycolate solution. "80%)" is the concentration of monoethanolamine (80% by mass) in the monoethanolamine solution.

  For the hair after the permanent wave treatment, the wave efficiency (%) was measured by the following method, and the softness of the hair after the permanent wave treatment was evaluated by the following method. These results are shown in Table 4.

[Wave wave efficiency measurement]
One end of the hair bundle after permanent wave treatment is fixed to the panel and hung, the average wavelength L (mm) of the wave is obtained, and the wave efficiency (%) is calculated from the average wavelength L and the diameter of the rod (12 mm) by the following formula. Asked.
Wave efficiency (%) = 100 x 12 / L

In addition, the average wavelength L (mm) of a wave is calculated | required by a following formula.
L = (l ₁ + l ₂ ) / (n ₁ + n ₂ )
Here, in the above formula, l ₁ and l ₂ are distances (mm) between the left and right wave peaks excluding the first peak and the last peak, and n ₁ and n ₂ are the left and right wave peaks. Is the number of

[Softness of hair]
About the softness of the hair after a permanent wave process, sensory evaluation by 20 professional panelists was implemented according to the following reference | standard. Those rated as ◎ and ○ are acceptable.
A: 16 or more of 20 panelists evaluated as excellent.
◯: Out of 20 panelists, 12 or more and 15 or less evaluated as excellent.
Δ: Out of 20 panelists, 8 or more and 11 or less evaluated as excellent.
X: 7 or less out of 20 panelists evaluated as excellent.

  As is apparent from Table 4, the hair subjected to permanent wave treatment after applying the hair protecting agents of Examples 1 to 4 containing three kinds of linear higher alcohols (A), (B) and (C). Has good softness, has high wave efficiency and is well waved, and suppresses the reduction of the deformation action of the hair deformation agent (permanent wave agent). On the other hand, the hair protecting agent of Comparative Example 1 not containing the linear higher alcohols (A) and (C) and the hair protecting agent of Comparative Example 2 not containing the linear higher alcohol (B) The hair that has been subjected to the permanent wave treatment after application of the hair is inferior in softness, has a low wave efficiency, and has a reduction in the deformation action of the hair deforming agent.

Claims (2)

A hair protecting agent applied to the hair before the hair deformation treatment using the hair deforming agent composed of the first agent containing the reducing agent and the second agent containing the oxidizing agent,
Straight chain higher alcohol (A) having 12 to 14 carbon atoms,
A linear higher alcohol (B) having 15 to 18 carbon atoms, and a linear higher alcohol (C) having 19 to 22 carbon atoms ,
When the content of the linear higher alcohol (B) having 15 to 18 carbon atoms is 100 parts by mass, the content of the linear higher alcohol (A) having 12 to 14 carbon atoms is 30 to 400 parts by mass. , and the hair care agent content and wherein 30 to 400 parts by mass der Rukoto of linear higher alcohol having a carbon number of 19 to 22 (C). A processing method of hair with hair care agent according to claim 1,
After applying the hair protecting agent to the hair, the hair using a hair deforming agent composed of a first agent containing a reducing agent and a second agent containing an oxidizing agent without washing out the hair protecting agent. A method for treating hair, comprising subjecting the hair to a deformation treatment.