JP4919543B2 - Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic - Google Patents
Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP4919543B2 JP4919543B2 JP2001163883A JP2001163883A JP4919543B2 JP 4919543 B2 JP4919543 B2 JP 4919543B2 JP 2001163883 A JP2001163883 A JP 2001163883A JP 2001163883 A JP2001163883 A JP 2001163883A JP 4919543 B2 JP4919543 B2 JP 4919543B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- water
- group
- carbon atoms
- powder
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
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- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 7
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- 125000003710 aryl alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
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- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940098697 zinc laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;dodecanoate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、キャンデリラワックスより分別抽出して得られた樹脂分、疎水化処理粉体及びシリコーン系界面活性剤を含有する油中水型乳化化粧料に関し、更に詳しくは、肌への密着性に優れながら、化粧膜の柔軟性にも優れ、化粧持続性及び粉体分散性が良好な油中水型乳化化粧料に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
従来より、油中水型乳化化粧料は、肌上に疎水性の化粧膜を形成できるため、化粧持続性に優れた化粧料として、ファンデーション、口紅、日焼け止め料等に汎用されていた。また、汗等による化粧崩れや色沈みを防止するために、油中水型乳化化粧料に配合する粉体は、予め疎水化処理された粉体が用いられていた。更に、配合された粉体の肌への密着性を高めるために、キャンデリラワックス等の固形油や、ロジン酸ペンタエリスリット等の油溶性樹脂が配合されていた。
【0003】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
しかしながら、粉体を予め疎水化処理して油中水型乳化化粧料に配合する方法では、粉体の分散性はある程度向上するが、肌への密着性が低く、化粧持続性が満足できる水準ではなかった。また、キャンデリラワックス等の固形油や、ロジン酸ペンタエリスリット等の油溶性樹脂を配合する方法では、化粧持続性は向上するものの、多く配合した場合は化粧膜が硬くなり、化粧膜の柔軟性が低下する場合があった。
このため、肌への密着性に優れながら、化粧膜の柔軟性にも優れ、化粧持続性及び粉体分散性が良好な油中水型乳化化粧料の開発が望まれていた。
【0004】
【課題を解決するための手段】
かかる実情において、本発明者らは鋭意研究を重ねた結果、キャンデリラワックスより分別抽出して得られた樹脂分、疎水化処理粉体及びシリコーン系界面活性剤を含有する油中水型乳化化粧料が、上記課題を解決することを見出し本発明を完成させた。
【0005】
すなわち本発明は、次の成分(a)〜(c);
(a)キャンデリラワックスより分別抽出して得られた樹脂分
(b)疎水化処理粉体
(c)シリコーン系界面活性剤
を含有することを特徴とする油中水型乳化化粧料を提供するものである。また、更に成分(d)としてシリコーン油を含有することを特徴とする前記油中水型乳化化粧料を提供するものである。更に、成分(a)の軟化点が35〜55℃であることを特徴とする前記何れかの油中水型乳化化粧料を提供するものである。
【0006】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明に用いられる成分(a)は、キャンデリラワックスから有機溶剤で分別抽出して得られる樹脂分である。キャンデリラワックスは、通常15〜30質量%(以下、単に「%」と略す。)の樹脂分を含有するが、本発明に用いられる成分(a)の樹脂分濃度は65%以上が好ましく、85%以上がより好ましい。このキャンデリラワックスから樹脂分を分別抽出する方法は、例えば、キャンデリラワックスに有機溶剤を添加して水浴上等で加熱し、該キャンデリラワックスを溶解し、次いで、これを常温まで冷却して、ワックスの結晶を析出させ、濾過により結晶を除去し、この濾液から有機溶剤を蒸留除去する方法が挙げられる。尚、ここで用いられる有機溶剤としては、エタノール、イソプロピルアルコール等のアルコール類、ケトン類、エステル類が挙げられる。このようにして得られた樹脂分は、淡黄色〜琥珀色の透明な樹脂分である。本発明の成分(a)の樹脂分は、従来のキャンデリラワックスの融点(約72℃)と比較して非常に低い軟化点を有するものであり、軟化点は35〜55℃が好ましい。(軟化点の測定方法:化粧品原料基準一般試験法、試料0.5g、昇温速度0.2℃/分、12mmφ、10gの鉛球を用いる。)
【0007】
成分(a)のキャンデリラワックスから分別抽出して得られる樹脂分は、INCI(International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient)にキャンデリラワックスエキストラクトという名称で登録されているもの等が挙げられ、市販品としては、該樹脂分を油剤やアルコール等に溶解されたものであるキャンデリラレジン(日本ナチュラル社製)等が挙げられる。
【0008】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料における成分(a)の含有量は、0.1〜15%が好ましい。この範囲で用いると、化粧膜の柔軟性と肌への密着性が特に優れる油中水型乳化化粧料を得ることができる。
【0009】
本発明に用いられる成分(b)は、粉体を通常公知の技術により疎水化処理を施したものである。成分(b)に用いられる粉体は、通常化粧料に使用される粉体であればよく、球状,板状,針状等の形状、煙霧状,微粒子,顔料級等の粒子径、多孔質,無孔質等の粒子構造等により特に限定されず、無機粉体類、光輝性粉体類、有機粉体類、色素粉体類、複合粉体類等が挙げられる。具体的には、酸化チタン,低次酸化チタン,コンジョウ,群青,ベンガラ,黄酸化鉄,黒酸化鉄,酸化亜鉛,酸化アルミニウム,二酸化珪素,酸化マグネシウム,酸化ジルコニウム,炭酸マグネシウム,炭酸カルシウム、酸化クロム,水酸化クロム,カーボンブラック,ケイ酸アルミニウム,ケイ酸マグネシウム,ケイ酸アルミニウムマグネシウム,雲母,合成雲母,合成セリサイト,セリサイト,タルク,カオリン,炭化珪素,硫酸バリウム,ベントナイト,スメクタイト,窒化硼素等の無機粉体類、オキシ塩化ビスマス,雲母チタン,酸化鉄コーティング雲母,酸化鉄雲母チタン,有機顔料処理雲母チタン,アルミニウムパウダー等の光輝性粉体類、ナイロンパウダー,ポリメチルメタクリレート,ポリエチレンパウダー,ポリスチレンパウダー,オルガノポリシロキサンエラストマーパウダー,ポリメチルシルセスキオキサンパウダー,ウールパウダー,シルクパウダー,結晶セルロース,N−アシルリジン等の有機粉体類、有機タール系顔料、有機色素のレーキ顔料等の色素粉体類、微粒子酸化チタン被覆雲母チタン,微粒子酸化亜鉛被覆雲母チタン,硫酸バリウム被覆雲母チタン,酸化チタン含有二酸化珪素,酸化亜鉛含有二酸化珪素等の複合粉体等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。
【0010】
成分(b)における、前記粉体を撥水処理する処理剤としては、例えば、ジメチルポリシロキサン,メチルハイドロジェンポリシロキサン,高粘度シリコーン,架橋型シリコーン,フッ素変性シリコーン,アクリル変性シリコーン,シリコーン樹脂等のシリコーン化合物、パーフルオロアルキルシラン、アニオン界面活性剤,カチオン界面活性剤,非イオン界面活性剤等の界面活性剤、ラウリン酸亜鉛,ステアリン酸亜鉛等の金属石鹸、ポリイソブチレン,ワックス,高級脂肪酸,高級アルコール等の油剤、N−アシルアミノ酸、パーフルオロアルキルリン酸及びこの塩,パーフルオロポリエーテル,パーフルオロポリエーテルアルキルリン酸及びこの塩等のフッ素化合物、ポリビニルピロリドン−ヘキサデセンのコポリマー等のポリビニルピロリドン変性ポリマー等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。
【0011】
成分(b)において、前記処理剤を前記粉体に処理する方法は通常公知の方法が用いられ、特に限定されるものではないが、例えば、溶媒を使用する湿式法、気相法、メカノケミカル法等が挙げられる。また、成分(b)における前記処理剤と前記粉体との処理比は、質量比として、0.1〜20:99.9〜80が好ましい。
【0012】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料における成分(b)の含有量は、0.1〜60%が好ましい。この範囲で用いると、粉体分散性がより優れる油中水型乳化化粧料を得ることができる。
【0013】
本発明に用いられる成分(c)は、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料において、乳化剤として用いられるものであり、例えば、下記一般式(1)で示されるポリオキシアルキレン変性オルガノポリシロキサン、下記平均組成式(2)又は(3)で示される長鎖アルキル含有ポリオキシアルキレン変性オルガノポリシロキサン等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。また、成分(c)は、乳化安定性の観点より、HLBが6以下であることが好ましい。
【0014】
【化1】
【0015】
[式中、R1;水素原子又は炭素数1〜5の一価炭化水素基。R2;−(CH2)l−O−(C2H4O)x−(C3H6O)y−R3。R3;水素原子、低級アルキル基。a,b;0,1,2,3から選ばれる数。但し、a+b=3である。m,n;0又は正の整数。l;正の整数。x;0又は正の整数、y;0又は正の整数で示され、x及びyが同時に0では無い。但し、n+bは1以上の整数。
]
【0016】
このようなポリオキシアルキレン変性オルガノポリシロキサンは、市販品として、シリコンKF−6011,KF6012,KF−6013,KF−6015,KF−6016,KF−6017,X−22−4991(何れも、信越化学工業社製)、NUCシリコンL7002(日本ユニカー社製)、SH−3772C、SH−3775C(何れも、東レ・ダウコーニング・シリコーン社製)等が挙げられる。また、成分(c)は、乳化安定性の観点より、HLBが6以下であることが好ましい。
【0017】
R4 aR5 bR6 cSiO(4-a-b-c)/2 …(2)
[式中、R4;同一又は異なってもよく、炭素数1〜10のアルキル基、水素原子、アリール基、アラルキル基、フッ素置換アルキル基。R5;−CmH2m−O−(C2H4O)d−(C3H6O)e−R7で示される基(式中、m;1〜5の整数、d、eは0以上の整数、且つ、d+e≧1〜200であり、R7;水素原子若しくは炭素数1〜5の一価炭化水素基又は−(CO)−R8で示される有機基、R8;炭素数1〜5の一価炭化水素基)。R6;炭素数10〜30の一価炭化水素基。a、b、cはそれぞれ1.0≦a≦2.5、0.001≦b≦1.5、0.001≦c≦1.5である。]
【0018】
R9 aR10 bR11 cSiO(4-a-b-c)2 …(3)
[式中、R9;同一又は異なってもよく、炭素数1〜10のアルキル基、水素原子、アリール基、アラルキル基、フッ素置換アルキル基。R10;−CmH2m−O−(C2H4O)d−(C3H6O)e−R12で示される基(式中、mは1〜5の整数、d、eは0以上の整数、且つ、d+e≧1〜200であり、R12は水素原子若しくは炭素数1〜5の一価炭化水素基又は−(CO)−R13で示される有機基、R13は炭素数1〜5の一価炭化水素基)。R11;−CnH2n−O−(C2H4O)f−(C3H6O)g−R14(式中、nは1〜5の整数、f、gは0以上の整数、且つ、f+g≧0〜200であり、R14は炭素数10〜30の一価炭化水素基)。a、b、cはそれぞれ1.0≦a≦2.5、0.001≦b≦1.5、0.001≦c≦1.5である。]
【0019】
このような長鎖アルキル含有ポリオキシアルキレン変性オルガノポリシロキサンは、市販品として、ABIL EM−90、ABIL B9806(何れも、ゴールドシュミット社製)、シリコンKF−6026(信越化学工業社製)等が挙げられる。
【0020】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料における成分(c)の含有量は、0.1〜10%が好ましい。この範囲で用いると、乳化安定性に優れる油中水型乳化化粧料を得ることができる。尚、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料には、乳化助剤として、成分(c)以外の界面活性剤を併用することも可能である。
【0021】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料には、上記成分の他に水を含有する。本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料における水の含有量は、5〜80%が好ましく、10〜70%が特に好ましい。この範囲で用いると、使用感と乳化安定性がより優れる油中水型乳化化粧料を得ることができる。
【0022】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料には、更に、成分(d)としてシリコーン油を含有させることができる。本発明に用いられるシリコ−ン油は、通常化粧料に用いられるものであり、例えば、ジメチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン等の鎖状シリコーン、オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン等の環状シリコーン、フッ素変性ポリシロキサン、アミノ変性ポリシロキサン、脂肪酸変性ポリシロキサン、高級アルコール変性ポリシロキサン、アルキル変性ポリシロキサン等の変性シリコーン等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。この中でも、成分(d)として、低分子量の鎖状シリコーン、オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン等の揮発性のシリコーン油を選択すると、化粧持続性が特に優れる油中水型乳化化粧料を得ることができる。本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料に成分(d)を含有する場合の含有量は、油相中の50〜100%が好ましい。
【0023】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料には、上記成分に加え、目的に応じて本発明の効果を損なわない量的、質的範囲において、成分(d)以外の油剤、成分(c)以外の界面活性剤、油ゲル化剤、未処理粉体、水性成分、水溶性高分子、紫外線吸収剤、ベントナイト,ヘクトライト,スメクタイト等の水性ゲル化剤、酸化防止剤、パラオキシ安息香酸誘導体,フェノキシエタノール等の防腐剤、ビタミンA,B6,B12,C,E等のビタミン類、キレート剤、ローズマリーエキス,カミツレエキス,ニンジン抽出物,センブリ抽出物,カテキン,カテキン誘導体,カンゾウ抽出物,ソウハクヒ抽出物,ホップ抽出物,コラーゲン,ヒアルロン酸,ヒアルロン酸誘導体,トレハロース,アロエエキス等の美容成分、メントール,カンファ,ソルビトール等の清涼剤、香料等の通常化粧料に汎用される成分を含有することができる。
【0024】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料には、上記成分の他に、成分(a)を希釈するためや、粉体の粉っぽさを低減するため、感触調整剤、エモリエント剤等の目的で、通常化粧料に用いられる油剤を含有することができる。ここで用いられる油剤としては、動物油、植物油、合成油等の起源及び、固形油、半固形油、液体油、揮発性油等の性状を問わず、炭化水素類、油脂類、ロウ類、硬化油類、エステル油類、脂肪酸類、高級アルコール類、フッ素系油類、ラノリン誘導体類等の油剤が挙げられる。具体的には、流動パラフィン,スクワラン,ワセリン,パラフィンワックス,セレシンワックス,マイクロクリスタリンワックス,モクロウ,モンタンワックス,フィッシャートロプシュワックス等の炭化水素類、オリーブ油,ヒマシ油,ホホバ油,ミンク油,マカデミアンナッツ油等の油脂類、ミツロウ,カルナウバワックス,キャンデリラワックス,ゲイロウ等のロウ類、セチルイソオクタネート,ミリスチン酸イソプロピル,パルミチン酸イソプロピル,ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル,トリオクタン酸グリセリル,ジイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル,トリイソステアリン酸ジグリセリル,トリベヘン酸グリセリル,ロジン酸ペンタエリスリットエステル,ジオクタン酸ネオペンチルグリコール,コレステロール脂肪酸エステル,N−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジ(コレステリル・ベヘニル・オクチルドデシル)等のエステル類、ステアリルアルコール,セチルアルコール,ラウリルアルコール,オレイルアルコール,イソステアリルアルコール,ベヘニルアルコール等の高級アルコール類、パーフルオロポリエーテル,パーフルオロデカン,パーフルオロオクタン等のフッ素系油剤類、ラノリン,酢酸ラノリン,ラノリン脂肪酸イソプロピル,ラノリンアルコール等のラノリン誘導体類等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。本発明の水中油型化粧料における油剤の含有量は、乳化安定性、使用感の観点より、1〜50%が好ましく、5〜40%がより好ましい。
【0025】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料には、上記成分の他に、乳化助剤及び分散剤として界面活性剤を含有させることができる。このような界面活性剤としては、陰イオン性界面活性剤、陽イオン性界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤、非イオン性界面活性剤等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。具体的には、陰イオン性界面活性剤として、ステアリン酸,ラウリン酸,ミリスチン酸,ベヘン酸,イソステアリン酸,オレイン酸,12−ヒドロキシステアリン酸等の脂肪酸とナトリウム,カリウム,トリエタノールアミン等のアルカリ物質により形成される脂肪酸石鹸類、アシルグルタミン酸塩類、アルキルリン酸塩、ポリオキシアルキレン付加アルキルリン酸塩等が挙げられる。陽イオン性界面活性剤としては、アルキルアミン塩、アルキル四級アンモニウム塩等が挙げられる。両性界面活性剤としては、N,N−ジメチル−N−アルキル−N−カルボキシルメチルアンモニウムベタイン、N,N−ジアルキルアミノアルキレンカルボン酸、N,N,N−トリアルキル−N−スルフォアルキレンアンモニウムベタイン、N,N−ジアルキル−N,N−ビス(ポリオキシエチレン硫酸)アンモニウムベタイン、2−アルキル−1−ヒドロキシエチル−1−カルボキシメチルイミダゾリニウムベタイン、レシチン、リン脂質等が挙げられる。非イオン性界面活性剤としては、グリセリン脂肪酸エステル及びそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル及びそのアルキレングリコール付加物、プロピレングリコール脂肪酸エステル及びそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル及びそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ソルビトールの脂肪酸エステル及びそのアルキレングリコール付加物、ポリアルキレングリコール脂肪酸エステル、蔗糖脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキルエーテル、グリセリンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレンアルキルフェニルエーテル、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ラノリンのアルキレングリコール付加物等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料に前記界面活性剤を含有する場合の含有量は、界面活性剤の種類、油剤の量及び質により変動するが、概ね0.01〜20%が好ましい。
【0026】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料には、上記成分の他に、安定化剤及び感触調整剤として、油ゲル化剤を含有させることができる。このような油ゲル化剤としては、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル、蔗糖脂肪酸エステル、デンプン脂肪酸エステル、イソステアリン酸アルミニウム,ステアリン酸カルシウム,部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン、有機変性ベントナイト、煙霧状無水ケイ酸等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料に前記油ゲル化剤を含有する場合の含有量は、概ね0.1〜10%が好ましい。
【0027】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料には、上記成分の他に、感触調整剤、保湿剤、清涼剤、防腐剤等として、水性成分を含有することができる。このような水性成分としては、プロピレングリコール,1,3−ブチレングリコール,ジプロピレングリコール等の多価アルコール類、グリセリン,ジグリセリン,ポリグリセリン等のグリセロール類、ソルビトール,マルチトール,ショ糖,デンプン糖等の糖類、グアーガム,スクレロチウムガム,ジェランガム,ペクチン,寒天,コンドロイチン硫酸ナトリウム,ヒアルロン酸,アラビアガム,アルギン酸ナトリウム,カラギーナン,キサンタンガム,ローカストビーンガム,メチルセルロース,ヒドロキシエチルセルロース,カルボキシメチルセルロース,カルボキシビニルポリマー,アルキル変性カルボキシビニルポリマー,ポリビニルアルコール,ポリビニルピロリドン,ポリアクリル酸ナトリウム等の水溶性高分子、塩化ナトリウム,塩化マグネシウム,乳酸ナトリウム等の塩類、アロエベラ,ハマメリス,キュウリ,レモン,ラベンダー,ローズ等の植物抽出液等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料に前記水性成分を含有する場合の含有量は、概ね0.1〜30%が好ましい。
【0028】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料には、上記成分の他に、紫外線吸収剤を含有することができる。このような紫外線吸収剤としては、2−ヒドロキシ−4−メトキシベンゾフェノン、2−ヒドロキシ−4−メトキシベンゾフェノン−5−スルホン酸、2−ヒドロキシ−4−メトキシベンゾフェノン−5−スルホン酸ナトリウム、2,2’−ジヒドロキシ−4,4’−ジメトキシベンゾフェノン、2,2’−ジヒドロキシ−4,4’−ジメトキシベンゾフェノン−5−スルホン酸ナトリウム、2,4−ジヒドロキシベンゾフェノン、2,2’4,4’−テトラヒドロキシベンゾフェノン、2,4,6−トリアニリノ−パラ−(カルボ−2’−エチルヘキシル−1’−オキシ)−1、3、5−トリアジン等のベンゾフェノン系、サリチル酸−2−エチルヘキシル、サリチル酸フェニル、サリチル酸ホモメンチル等のサリチル酸系、パラアミノ安息香酸、パラアミノ安息香酸エチル、パラアミノ安息香酸グリセリル、パラジメチルアミノ安息香酸アミル、パラジメチルアミノ安息香酸アミル−2−エチルヘキシル、パラジヒドロキシプロピル安息香酸エチル等のPABA系、p−メトキシ桂皮酸−2−エチルヘキシル、4−メトキシ桂皮酸−2−エトキシエチル等のシンナメート系、2−(2−ヒドロキシ−5−メチルフェニル)ベンゾトリアゾール、4−tert−4’−メトキシジベンゾイルメタン等のジベンゾイルメタン系、オキシベンゾン系、ジメトキシベンジリデンジオキソイミダゾリシンプロピオン酸−2−エチルヘキシル等が挙げられ、これらを一種又は二種以上用いることができる。
【0029】
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、スキンケア化粧料、メーキャップ化粧料、頭髪化粧料の何れの化粧料にも応用可能であるが、本発明の効果が顕著に発揮される化粧料は、ファンデーション、下地料、コントロールカラー、コンシーラー、アイカラー、口紅等のメーキャップ化粧料や日焼け止め化粧料である。また、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料の形態は、液状、乳液状、クリーム状、ゲル状、固形状の何れでも良い。
【0030】
【実施例】
以下に実施例を挙げて、本発明を更に詳細に説明する。尚、これらは本発明を何ら限定するものではない。
【0031】
実施例1〜9及び比較例1〜5:クリーム状ファンデーション
表1〜3に示す組成のクリーム状ファンデーションを以下に示す製造方法により調製し、「粉体の分散性」、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」、「化粧持続性」の各項目について以下に示す評価方法及び判定基準により評価し、結果を併せて表1〜3に示した。
【0032】
【表1】
【0033】
【表2】
【0034】
【表3】
【0035】
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜12を混合溶解する。
B:Aに成分13〜24を添加して、混合分散する。
C:成分25〜27を混合溶解する。
D:Bを攪拌しながら、Cを添加し、乳化する。
E:Dを容器に充填し、クリーム状ファンデーションを得た。
【0036】
[評価方法:粉体の分散性]
上記実施例及び比較例のクリーム状ファンデーションを、ガラス板に厚さ25μmのアプリケーターを用いて薄膜を引き、粉体の凝集性を観察し、下記判定基準より判定した。
(観察結果) :(判定)
粉体の凝集が観察されない : ◎
僅かに粉体の凝集が観察される : △
明らかに粉体の凝集が観察される: ×
【0037】
[評価方法:肌への密着性、化粧膜の柔軟性、化粧持続性]
上記実施例及び比較例のクリーム状ファンデーションを、化粧品専門パネル20名に使用してもらい、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」について、各パネルがファンデーション毎に以下の評価基準により評点を付し、各ファンデーション毎に全パネルの評点の平均点を算出し、以下の判定基準により判定した。尚、「化粧持続性」については、ファンデーション塗布後、5時間後の状態を評価した。
〔評価基準〕
使用感 : 評点
非常に良好 : 5点
良好 : 4点
普通 : 3点
やや不良 : 2点
不良 : 1点
〔判定基準〕
全パネルの評点の平均点 : 判定
4.5以上 : ◎
3.5以上〜4.5未満 : ○
2.0以上〜3.5未満 : △
2.0未満 : ×
【0038】
表1〜3の結果から明らかなように、本発明に係わる実施例1〜9のクリーム状ファンデーションは、「粉体の分散性」、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」、「化粧持続性」の全ての項目に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料であった。一方、成分(a)を含有しない比較例1では、粉体の分散性と肌への密着性が劣っていた。また、成分(b)を含有しない比較例2では、粉体の分散性と化粧持続性が劣っていた。更に、成分(c)を含有しない比較例3では、粉体の分散性と肌への密着性、化粧持続性が劣っていた。そして、成分(a)の代わりにロジン酸ペンタエリスリットを含有した比較例4では、化粧膜の柔軟性に、成分(a)の代わりにキャンデリラワックスを含有した比較例5では、粉体の分散性、化粧膜の柔軟性等が劣っていた。
【0039】
【0040】
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜6を混合する。
B:Aに成分7〜11を添加して、混合分散する。
C:成分12〜15を混合溶解する。
D:Bを攪拌しながら、Cを添加し、乳化する。
E:Dを容器に充填し、乳液状ファンデーションを得た。
実施例10の乳液状ファンデーションは、「粉体の分散性」、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」、「化粧持続性」の全ての項目に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料であった。
【0041】
【0042】
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜8を混合する。
B:Aに成分9〜11を添加して、混合分散する。
C:成分12〜15を混合溶解する。
D:Bを攪拌しながら、Cを添加し、乳化する。
E:Dを容器に充填し、振とう分散タイプ液状日焼け止め料を得た。
実施例11の振とう分散タイプ液状日焼け止め料は、「粉体の分散性」、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」、「化粧持続性」の全ての項目に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料であった。
【0043】
【0044】
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜10を混合溶解する。
B:Aに成分11〜15を添加して、混合分散する。
C:成分16〜18を混合溶解する。
D:Bを攪拌しながら、Cを添加し、乳化する。
E:Dを容器に溶融充填し、固形状ファンデーションを得た。
実施例12の固形状ファンデーションは、「粉体分散性」、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」、「化粧持続性」の全ての項目に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料であった。
【0045】
【0046】
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜9を混合溶解する。
B:Aに成分10〜14を添加して、混合分散する。
C:成分15〜18を混合溶解する。
D:Bを攪拌しながら、Cを添加し、乳化する。
E:Dを容器に溶融充填し、スティック状コンシーラーを得た。
実施例13のスティック状コンシーラーは、「粉体の分散性」、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」、「化粧持続性」の全ての項目に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料であった。
【0047】
【0048】
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜11を混合する。
B:Aに成分12〜14を添加して、混合分散する。
C:成分15〜17を混合溶解する。
D:Bを攪拌しながら、Cを添加し、乳化する。
E:Dを容器に充填し、乳液状コントロールカラーを得た。
実施例14の乳液状コントロールカラーは、「粉体の分散性」、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」、「化粧持続性」の全ての項目に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料であった。
【0049】
【0050】
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜8を混合する。
B:Aに成分9〜13を添加して、混合分散する。
C:成分14〜17を混合溶解する。
D:Bを攪拌しながら、Cを添加し、乳化する。
E:Dを容器に充填し、乳液状下地料を得た。
実施例15の乳液状下地料は、「粉体の分散性」、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」、「化粧持続性」の全ての項目に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料であった。
【0051】
【0052】
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜8を混合する。
B:Aに成分9〜11を添加して、混合分散する。
C:成分12〜14を混合溶解する。
D:Bを攪拌しながら、Cを添加し、乳化する。
E:Dを容器に溶融充填し、固形状アイカラーを得た。
実施例16の固形状アイカラーは、「粉体分散性」、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」、「化粧持続性」の全ての項目に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料であった。
【0053】
【0054】
(製造方法)
A:成分1〜8を混合する。
B:Aに成分9を添加して、混合分散する。
C:成分10〜14を混合溶解する。
D:Bを攪拌しながら、Cを添加し、乳化する。
E:Dを容器に充填し、スキンクリームを得た。
実施例17のスキンクリームは、「粉体の分散性」、「肌への密着性」、「化粧膜の柔軟性」、「潤い感の持続性」の全ての項目に優れた油中水型乳化化粧料であった。
【0055】
【発明の効果】
以上詳述したように、本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、肌への密着性に優れながら、化粧膜の柔軟性にも優れ、化粧持続性及び粉体分散性が良好な油中水型乳化であった。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic containing a resin component obtained by fractional extraction from candelilla wax, a hydrophobized powder and a silicone surfactant, and more specifically, adhesion to the skin. The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that has excellent cosmetic film flexibility and excellent makeup durability and powder dispersibility.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics can form a hydrophobic cosmetic film on the skin, so that they have been widely used as foundations, lipsticks, sunscreens and the like as cosmetics with excellent makeup sustainability. In addition, in order to prevent makeup collapse and color sink due to sweat and the like, powder that has been previously hydrophobized has been used as the powder to be blended in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. Furthermore, in order to improve the adhesion of the blended powder to the skin, solid oils such as candelilla wax and oil-soluble resins such as rosin acid pentaerythritol have been blended.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
However, when the powder is hydrophobized in advance and blended into a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic, the dispersibility of the powder is improved to some extent, but the adhesion to the skin is low and the makeup sustainability is satisfactory. It wasn't. In addition, the method of blending solid oils such as candelilla wax and oil-soluble resins such as rosinic acid pentaerythritol improves makeup sustainability, but when blended in a large amount, the makeup film becomes hard and the makeup film is flexible. In some cases, the sexiness decreased.
Therefore, it has been desired to develop a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic with excellent adhesion to the skin, excellent flexibility of the cosmetic film, and good makeup sustainability and powder dispersibility.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
Under such circumstances, the present inventors have conducted intensive research, and as a result, water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics containing a resin fraction obtained by fractional extraction from candelilla wax, a hydrophobized powder, and a silicone surfactant. The present invention has been found to solve the above problems.
[0005]
That is, the present invention provides the following components (a) to (c);
(A) Resin content obtained by fractional extraction from candelilla wax
(B) Hydrophobized powder
(C) Silicone surfactant
It is intended to provide a water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic comprising Further, the present invention provides the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic, which further contains silicone oil as the component (d). Furthermore, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic according to any one of the above, wherein the softening point of the component (a) is 35 to 55 ° C.
[0006]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The component (a) used in the present invention is a resin component obtained by fractional extraction from candelilla wax with an organic solvent. The candelilla wax usually contains a resin content of 15 to 30% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”), but the resin content concentration of the component (a) used in the present invention is preferably 65% or more, 85% or more is more preferable. The method of fractionating and extracting the resin component from the candelilla wax is, for example, adding an organic solvent to the candelilla wax and heating it on a water bath or the like to dissolve the candelilla wax, and then cooling it to room temperature. There is a method in which a wax crystal is precipitated, the crystal is removed by filtration, and the organic solvent is distilled off from the filtrate. Examples of the organic solvent used here include alcohols such as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol, ketones, and esters. The resin component thus obtained is a light yellow to amber transparent resin component. The resin component of component (a) of the present invention has a very low softening point compared to the melting point (about 72 ° C.) of conventional candelilla wax, and the softening point is preferably 35 to 55 ° C. (Measurement method of softening point: Cosmetic raw material standard general test method, sample 0.5 g, temperature rising rate 0.2 ° C./min, 12 mmφ, 10 g lead sphere is used.)
[0007]
Examples of the resin component obtained by fractional extraction from the candelilla wax of component (a) include those registered under the name of Candelilla wax extract in INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient). Examples thereof include candelilla resin (manufactured by Nippon Natural Co., Ltd.) in which the resin component is dissolved in an oil or alcohol.
[0008]
The content of the component (a) in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 15%. When used in this range, it is possible to obtain a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is particularly excellent in the flexibility of the cosmetic film and the adhesion to the skin.
[0009]
Component (b) used in the present invention is obtained by subjecting powder to a hydrophobic treatment by a generally known technique. The powder used for component (b) may be any powder that is usually used in cosmetics, such as spherical, plate-like, needle-like shapes, fumes, fine particles, pigment grades, etc., porous There are no particular restrictions on the particle structure such as non-porous, and inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, composite powders and the like can be mentioned. Specifically, titanium oxide, low-order titanium oxide, conger, ultramarine, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, silicon dioxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, chromium oxide , Chromium hydroxide, carbon black, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic mica, synthetic sericite, sericite, talc, kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, bentonite, smectite, boron nitride, etc. Inorganic powders, bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica, iron oxide-coated mica, iron oxide mica titanium, organic pigment-treated mica titanium, aluminum powder and other glittering powders, nylon powder, polymethyl methacrylate, polyethylene powder, polystyrene Uder, organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, wool powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose, organic powders such as N-acyl lysine, organic tar pigments, pigment powders such as organic pigment lake pigments And composite powders such as fine particle titanium oxide-coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide-coated mica titanium, barium sulfate-coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-containing silicon dioxide, zinc oxide-containing silicon dioxide, and the like. Can be used.
[0010]
Examples of the treatment agent for subjecting the powder to water repellency in the component (b) include dimethylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, high-viscosity silicone, cross-linked silicone, fluorine-modified silicone, acrylic-modified silicone, and silicone resin. Silicone compounds, perfluoroalkylsilanes, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, surfactants such as nonionic surfactants, metal soaps such as zinc laurate and zinc stearate, polyisobutylene, wax, higher fatty acids, Oils such as higher alcohols, fluorine compounds such as N-acylamino acids, perfluoroalkyl phosphoric acid and salts thereof, perfluoropolyether, perfluoropolyether alkyl phosphoric acid and salts thereof, and polyvinyls such as polyvinylpyrrolidone-hexadecene copolymers Pyrrolidone-modified polymers, and the like, and these can be used singly or in combination.
[0011]
In the component (b), a method for treating the powder with the treating agent is usually a known method and is not particularly limited. For example, a wet method using a solvent, a gas phase method, a mechanochemical Law. Moreover, the treatment ratio of the treating agent and the powder in the component (b) is preferably 0.1 to 20: 99.9 to 80 as a mass ratio.
[0012]
The content of component (b) in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 60%. When used in this range, a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic with better powder dispersibility can be obtained.
[0013]
The component (c) used in the present invention is used as an emulsifier in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention. For example, a polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane represented by the following general formula (1), The long-chain alkyl-containing polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane represented by the following average composition formula (2) or (3) can be used, and one or more of them can be used. The component (c) preferably has an HLB of 6 or less from the viewpoint of emulsion stability.
[0014]
[Chemical 1]
[0015]
[Wherein R1A hydrogen atom or a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms. R2;-( CH2)l-O- (C2H4O)x-(C3H6O)y-R3. R3A hydrogen atom and a lower alkyl group. a, b; a number selected from 0, 1, 2, 3; However, a + b = 3. m, n: 0 or a positive integer. l: a positive integer. x: 0 or a positive integer, y: 0 or a positive integer, and x and y are not 0 at the same time. However, n + b is an integer of 1 or more.
]
[0016]
Such polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxanes are commercially available products such as silicon KF-6011, KF6012, KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017, and X-22-4991 (all Shin-Etsu Chemical). Kogyo Kogyo Co., Ltd.), NUC silicon L7002 (Nihon Unicar Co., Ltd.), SH-3775C, SH-3775C (both manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Silicone Co., Ltd.) and the like. The component (c) preferably has an HLB of 6 or less from the viewpoint of emulsion stability.
[0017]
R4 aR5 bR6 cSiO(4-abc) / 2 ... (2)
[Wherein R4They may be the same or different, and an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom, an aryl group, an aralkyl group, or a fluorine-substituted alkyl group. R5; -CmH2m-O- (C2HFourO)d-(CThreeH6O)e-R7Wherein m is an integer of 1 to 5, d and e are integers of 0 or more, and d + e ≧ 1 to 200, and R7; A hydrogen atom or a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms or-(CO) -R8An organic group represented by R8A monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms). R6A monovalent hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms; a, b, and c are 1.0 ≦ a ≦ 2.5, 0.001 ≦ b ≦ 1.5, and 0.001 ≦ c ≦ 1.5, respectively. ]
[0018]
R9 aR10 bR11 cSiO(4-abc) 2 ... (3)
[Wherein R9They may be the same or different, and an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom, an aryl group, an aralkyl group, a fluorine-substituted alkyl group. R10; -CmH2m-O- (C2HFourO)d-(CThreeH6O)e-R12(Wherein, m is an integer of 1 to 5, d and e are integers of 0 or more, and d + e ≧ 1 to 200, and R12Is a hydrogen atom or a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms or-(CO) -R13An organic group represented by R13Is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms). R11; -CnH2n-O- (C2HFourO)f-(CThreeH6O)g-R14(In the formula, n is an integer of 1 to 5, f and g are integers of 0 or more, and f + g ≧ 0 to 200, R14Is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms). a, b, and c are 1.0 ≦ a ≦ 2.5, 0.001 ≦ b ≦ 1.5, and 0.001 ≦ c ≦ 1.5, respectively. ]
[0019]
Such long-chain alkyl-containing polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxanes are commercially available products such as ABIL EM-90, ABIL B9806 (all manufactured by Goldschmidt), Silicon KF-6026 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), etc. Can be mentioned.
[0020]
The content of the component (c) in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 10%. If it uses in this range, the water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics which are excellent in emulsion stability can be obtained. In the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, a surfactant other than the component (c) can be used in combination as an emulsification aid.
[0021]
The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains water in addition to the above components. The water content in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 5 to 80%, particularly preferably 10 to 70%. If it uses in this range, the water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic which is more excellent in use feeling and emulsion stability can be obtained.
[0022]
The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can further contain silicone oil as component (d). Silicone oil used in the present invention is usually used in cosmetics, for example, chain silicone such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and the like. Examples include cyclic silicones, fluorine-modified polysiloxanes, amino-modified polysiloxanes, fatty acid-modified polysiloxanes, higher alcohol-modified polysiloxanes, alkyl-modified polysiloxanes, and the like, and one or more of these can be used. Among these, when a volatile silicone oil such as low molecular weight chain silicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or the like is selected as the component (d), a water-in-oil type emulsion makeup with particularly excellent makeup durability. You can get a fee. The content when the component (d) is contained in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 50 to 100% in the oil phase.
[0023]
In the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned components, oil agents other than the component (d) and components other than the component (c) in a quantitative and qualitative range depending on the purpose. Surfactant, oil gelling agent, untreated powder, aqueous component, water-soluble polymer, UV absorber, aqueous gelling agent such as bentonite, hectorite, smectite, antioxidant, paraoxybenzoic acid derivative, phenoxyethanol Preservatives such as vitamins A, B6, B12, C, E, etc. vitamins, chelating agents, rosemary extract, chamomile extract, carrot extract, assembly extract, catechin, catechin derivatives, licorice extract, Sakuha extract , Hop extract, collagen, hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid derivatives, trehalose, aloe extract and other cosmetic ingredients, menthol, camphor, sorbit Cooling agents such as Le, it can contain components that are generally used in ordinary cosmetics of perfumes.
[0024]
In the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above components, in order to dilute the component (a) and to reduce the powderiness of the powder, Therefore, it can contain an oil agent usually used in cosmetics. Oils used here include hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hardened, regardless of the origin, such as animal oil, vegetable oil, synthetic oil, and the properties of solid oil, semi-solid oil, liquid oil, volatile oil, etc. Oils such as oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, fluorinated oils, lanolin derivatives and the like can be mentioned. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, molasses, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, mink oil, macadamian nut Fats and oils such as oil, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, waxes such as gay wax, cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diglyceryl diisostearate, tri Diglyceryl isostearate, glyceryl tribehenate, rosin acid pentaerythritol ester, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol fatty acid ester, N- Esters such as uroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl, behenyl, octyldodecyl), higher alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecane , Fluorinated oils such as perfluorooctane, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin, lanolin acetate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, lanolin alcohol, and the like, and these can be used alone or in combination. The content of the oil agent in the oil-in-water cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1 to 50% and more preferably 5 to 40% from the viewpoints of emulsion stability and usability.
[0025]
In addition to the above components, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may contain a surfactant as an emulsification aid and a dispersant. Examples of such surfactants include anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and the like, and one or more of these can be used. . Specifically, as anionic surfactants, fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and alkalis such as sodium, potassium, triethanolamine, etc. Examples include fatty acid soaps, acyl glutamates, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene-added alkyl phosphates and the like formed by the substance. Examples of the cationic surfactant include alkylamine salts and alkyl quaternary ammonium salts. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include N, N-dimethyl-N-alkyl-N-carboxylmethyl ammonium betaine, N, N-dialkylaminoalkylene carboxylic acid, N, N, N-trialkyl-N-sulfoalkylene ammonium betaine. N, N-dialkyl-N, N-bis (polyoxyethylene sulfate) ammonium betaine, 2-alkyl-1-hydroxyethyl-1-carboxymethylimidazolinium betaine, lecithin, phospholipid and the like. Nonionic surfactants include glycerin fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, polyglycerin fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, propylene glycol fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, sorbitan fatty acid esters and alkylene glycol adducts thereof. , Fatty acid ester of sorbitol and its alkylene glycol adduct, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, glycerin alkyl ether, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, alkylene glycol of lanolin An adduct etc. are mentioned, These can be used 1 type, or 2 or more types. The content of the surfactant in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the type of surfactant, the amount and quality of the oil, but is generally preferably 0.01 to 20%.
[0026]
In addition to the above components, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can contain an oil gelling agent as a stabilizer and a feel modifier. Examples of such oil gelling agents include dextrin fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, starch fatty acid ester, aluminum isostearate, calcium stearate, partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane, organically modified bentonite, fumed silicic acid, and the like. One or more of these can be used. The content of the oil gelling agent in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is preferably about 0.1 to 10%.
[0027]
In addition to the above components, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may contain an aqueous component as a feel modifier, a moisturizer, a refreshing agent, a preservative, and the like. Examples of such aqueous components include polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol; glycerols such as glycerin, diglycerin, and polyglycerin; sorbitol, maltitol, sucrose, and starch sugar. Sugars such as guar gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, pectin, agar, chondroitin sulfate sodium, hyaluronic acid, gum arabic, sodium alginate, carrageenan, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxyvinyl polymer, Water-soluble polymers such as alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, sodium polyacrylate, sodium chloride Arm, magnesium chloride, salts such as sodium lactate, aloe vera, hamamelis, cucumber, lemon, lavender, plant extracts such as rose, and the like, and these can be used singly or in combination. The content of the aqueous component in the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is preferably about 0.1 to 30%.
[0028]
In addition to the above components, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can contain an ultraviolet absorber. Examples of such UV absorbers include 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid sodium salt, 2,2 '-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid sodium salt, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'4,4'-tetra Benzophenone series such as hydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,6-trianilino-para- (carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1,3,5-triazine, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate Salicylic acid system such as PABA series such as perfume acid, ethyl paraaminobenzoate, glyceryl paraaminobenzoate, amyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, amyl-2-ethylhexyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, ethyl paradihydroxypropylbenzoate, p-methoxycinnamic acid-2- Cinnamates such as ethylhexyl and 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethoxyethyl, dibenzoylmethanes such as 2- (2-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl) benzotriazole and 4-tert-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, Examples thereof include oxybenzone, dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolicin propionate-2-ethylhexyl, and the like, and one or more of them can be used.
[0029]
The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to any cosmetics such as skin care cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, and hair cosmetics. Makeup cosmetics such as foundation, base material, control color, concealer, eye color, lipstick and sunscreen cosmetics. Further, the form of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may be any of liquid, emulsion, cream, gel, and solid.
[0030]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.
[0031]
Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-5: Creamy foundation
A cream-like foundation having the composition shown in Tables 1 to 3 was prepared by the following production method, and “dispersibility of powder”, “adhesion to skin”, “flexibility of cosmetic film”, “makeup persistence” Each item was evaluated by the following evaluation method and criteria, and the results are shown in Tables 1 to 3.
[0032]
[Table 1]
[0033]
[Table 2]
[0034]
[Table 3]
[0035]
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 12 are mixed and dissolved.
B: Components 13 to 24 are added to A and mixed and dispersed.
C: Components 25 to 27 are mixed and dissolved.
D: While stirring B, add C and emulsify.
E: D was filled in a container to obtain a creamy foundation.
[0036]
[Evaluation method: Dispersibility of powder]
The cream foundations of the above Examples and Comparative Examples were drawn on a glass plate using an applicator having a thickness of 25 μm, and the agglomeration property of the powder was observed, and judged according to the following criteria.
(Observation results): (Judgment)
Aggregation of powder is not observed: ◎
Slight aggregation of powder is observed: △
Clearly agglomeration of the powder is observed: ×
[0037]
[Evaluation method: Adhesion to skin, flexibility of cosmetic film, makeup sustainability]
The cream foundations of the above examples and comparative examples were used by 20 professional cosmetic panels, and each panel had the following evaluation criteria for “adhesion to skin” and “flexibility of cosmetic film” for each foundation. The average score of the scores of all the panels was calculated for each foundation and judged according to the following criteria. In addition, about "makeup sustainability", the state of 5 hours after foundation application was evaluated.
〔Evaluation criteria〕
Usability: Score
Very good: 5 points
Good: 4 points
Normal: 3 points
Slightly bad: 2 points
Defect: 1 point
[Criteria]
Average score of all panels: Judgment
4.5 or more: ◎
3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○
2.0 or more and less than 3.5: △
Less than 2.0: ×
[0038]
As is apparent from the results of Tables 1 to 3, the cream-like foundations of Examples 1 to 9 according to the present invention are “dispersibility of powder”, “adhesion to skin”, and “flexibility of cosmetic film”. The water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic excellent in all items of “makeup lasting”. On the other hand, in the comparative example 1 which does not contain a component (a), the dispersibility of powder and the adhesiveness to skin were inferior. Moreover, in the comparative example 2 which does not contain a component (b), the dispersibility of powder and makeup persistence were inferior. Furthermore, in the comparative example 3 which does not contain a component (c), the dispersibility of powder, the adhesiveness to skin, and makeup sustainability were inferior. And in the comparative example 4 containing the rosinic acid pentaerythritol instead of the component (a), the flexibility of the decorative film, and in the comparative example 5 containing the candelilla wax instead of the component (a), Dispersibility, flexibility of the decorative film, etc. were inferior.
[0039]
[0040]
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 6 are mixed.
B: Components 7 to 11 are added to A and mixed and dispersed.
C: Components 12 to 15 are mixed and dissolved.
D: While stirring B, add C and emulsify.
E: D was filled into a container to obtain an emulsion foundation.
The emulsion foundation of Example 10 is a water-in-oil emulsification excellent in all items of “dispersibility of powder”, “adhesion to skin”, “flexibility of cosmetic film”, and “persistence of makeup”. It was a cosmetic.
[0041]
[0042]
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 8 are mixed.
B: Components 9 to 11 are added to A and mixed and dispersed.
C: Components 12 to 15 are mixed and dissolved.
D: While stirring B, add C and emulsify.
E: D was filled into a container to obtain a shake dispersion type liquid sunscreen.
The shaking dispersion type liquid sunscreen of Example 11 was excellent in all items of “dispersibility of powder”, “adhesion to skin”, “flexibility of cosmetic film”, and “makeup sustainability”. It was a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic.
[0043]
[0044]
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 10 are mixed and dissolved.
B: Components 11 to 15 are added to A and mixed and dispersed.
C: Components 16 to 18 are mixed and dissolved.
D: While stirring B, add C and emulsify.
E: D was melt-filled in a container to obtain a solid foundation.
The solid foundation of Example 12 is a water-in-oil emulsion makeup excellent in all items of “powder dispersibility”, “adhesion to skin”, “flexibility of cosmetic film”, and “makeup sustainability”. It was a fee.
[0045]
[0046]
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 9 are mixed and dissolved.
B: Components 10 to 14 are added to A and mixed and dispersed.
C: Components 15 to 18 are mixed and dissolved.
D: While stirring B, add C and emulsify.
E: D was melt-filled into a container to obtain a stick concealer.
The stick-type concealer of Example 13 is a water-in-oil emulsification excellent in all items of “dispersibility of powder”, “adhesion to skin”, “flexibility of cosmetic film”, and “persistence of makeup”. It was a cosmetic.
[0047]
[0048]
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 11 are mixed.
B: Components 12 to 14 are added to A and mixed and dispersed.
C: Components 15 to 17 are mixed and dissolved.
D: While stirring B, add C and emulsify.
E: D was filled into a container to obtain an emulsion control color.
The emulsion control color of Example 14 is a water-in-oil type excellent in all items of “dispersibility of powder”, “adhesion to skin”, “flexibility of cosmetic film”, and “makeup persistence”. It was an emulsified cosmetic.
[0049]
[0050]
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 8 are mixed.
B: Components 9 to 13 are added to A and mixed and dispersed.
C: Components 14 to 17 are mixed and dissolved.
D: While stirring B, add C and emulsify.
E: D was filled in a container to obtain an emulsion base material.
The emulsion base material of Example 15 is a water-in-oil type excellent in all items of “dispersibility of powder”, “adhesion to skin”, “flexibility of cosmetic film”, and “makeup sustainability”. It was an emulsified cosmetic.
[0051]
[0052]
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 8 are mixed.
B: Components 9 to 11 are added to A and mixed and dispersed.
C: Components 12 to 14 are mixed and dissolved.
D: While stirring B, add C and emulsify.
E: D was melt-filled into a container to obtain a solid eye color.
The solid eye color of Example 16 is a water-in-oil emulsification excellent in all items of “powder dispersibility”, “adhesion to skin”, “flexibility of cosmetic film” and “makeup sustainability”. It was a cosmetic.
[0053]
[0054]
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 8 are mixed.
B: Component 9 is added to A and mixed and dispersed.
C: Components 10 to 14 are mixed and dissolved.
D: While stirring B, add C and emulsify.
E: D was filled into a container to obtain a skin cream.
The skin cream of Example 17 is a water-in-oil type excellent in all items of “dispersibility of powder”, “adhesion to skin”, “flexibility of cosmetic film”, and “sustainability of moisture”. It was an emulsified cosmetic.
[0055]
【The invention's effect】
As described above in detail, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in the adhesiveness to the skin, but also in the flexibility of the cosmetic film, in the makeup durability and powder dispersibility. It was water-type emulsification.
Claims (2)
(a)キャンデリラワックスより分別抽出して得られた樹脂分
(b)疎水化処理粉体
(c)下記平均組成式(2)又は(3)で示される長鎖アルキル含有ポリオキシアルキレン変性から選ばれる一種又は二種以上のシリコーン系界面活性剤
(d)揮発性シリコーン油
R4 aR5 bR6 cSiO(4-a-b-c)/2 …(2)
[式中、R4;同一又は異なってもよく、炭素数1〜10のアルキル基、水素原子、アリール基、アラルキル基、フッ素置換アルキル基。R5;−CmH2m−O−(C2H4O)d−(C3H6O)e−R7で示される基(式中、m;1〜5の整数、d、eは0以上の整数、且つ、d+e≧1〜200であり、R7;水素原子若しくは炭素数1〜5の一価炭化水素基又は−(CO)−R8で示される有機基、R8;炭素数1〜5の一価炭化水素基)。R6;炭素数10〜30の一価炭化水素基。a、b、cはそれぞれ1.0≦a≦2.5、0.001≦b≦1.5、0.001≦c≦1.5である。]
R9 aR10 bR11 cSiO(4-a-b-c)2 …(3)
[式中、R9;同一又は異なってもよく、炭素数1〜10のアルキル基、水素原子、アリール基、アラルキル基、フッ素置換アルキル基。R10;−CmH2m−O−(C2H4O)d−(C3H6O)e−R12で示される基(式中、mは1〜5の整数、d、eは0以上の整数、且つ、d+e≧1〜200であり、R12は水素原子若しくは炭素数1〜5の一価炭化水素基又は−(CO)−R13で示される有機基、R13は炭素数1〜5の一価炭化水素基)。R11;−CnH2n−O−(C2H4O)f−(C3H6O)g−R14(式中、nは1〜5の整数、f、gは0以上の整数、且つ、f+g≧0〜200であり、R14は炭素数10〜30の一価炭化水素基)。a、b、cはそれぞれ1.0≦a≦2.5、0.001≦b≦1.5、0.001≦c≦1.5である。]
を含有することを特徴とする油中水型乳化化粧料。The following components (a) to (d) ;
(A) Candelilla resin component obtained by differential extraction from wax (b) hydrophobized powder (c) below SL average composition formula (2) or a long chain alkyl-containing polyoxyalkylene-modified represented by (3) one or two or more silicone-based surfactant selected from
(D) Volatile silicone oil
R 4 a R 5 b R 6 c SiO (4-abc) / 2 (2)
[In formula, R < 4 > may be same or different and is a C1-C10 alkyl group, a hydrogen atom, an aryl group, an aralkyl group, and a fluorine-substituted alkyl group. R 5 ; —C m H 2m —O— (C 2 H 4 O) d — (C 3 H 6 O) e —R 7 (wherein, m: an integer of 1 to 5, d, e Is an integer of 0 or more and d + e ≧ 1 to 200, R 7 ; a hydrogen atom or a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms or an organic group represented by — (CO) —R 8 , R 8 ; A monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms). R 6 ; a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms. a, b, and c are 1.0 ≦ a ≦ 2.5, 0.001 ≦ b ≦ 1.5, and 0.001 ≦ c ≦ 1.5, respectively. ]
R 9 a R 10 b R 11 c SiO (4-abc) 2 ... (3)
[Wherein, R 9 may be the same or different, and an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom, an aryl group, an aralkyl group, or a fluorine-substituted alkyl group. R 10 ; —C m H 2m —O— (C 2 H 4 O) d — (C 3 H 6 O) e —R 12 (wherein, m is an integer of 1 to 5, d, e Is an integer of 0 or more and d + e ≧ 1 to 200, R 12 is a hydrogen atom or a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms or an organic group represented by — (CO) —R 13 , R 13 is A monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms). R 11; -C n H 2n -O- (C 2 H 4 O) f - (C 3 H 6 O) g -R 14 ( wherein, n an integer of 1 to 5, f, g is 0 or more An integer, and f + g ≧ 0 to 200, and R 14 is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms). a, b, and c are 1.0 ≦ a ≦ 2.5, 0.001 ≦ b ≦ 1.5, and 0.001 ≦ c ≦ 1.5, respectively. ]
A water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic comprising:
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JP4812423B2 (en) * | 2005-12-27 | 2011-11-09 | 花王株式会社 | Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic |
FR2915101B1 (en) * | 2007-04-23 | 2011-07-29 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION FOR THE PREVENTION AND / OR TREATMENT OF ROSACEAE, CUPPEROSIS OR SKINS WITH DIFFUSED REDNESS OR SMALL DILATED VESSELS |
JP4902752B2 (en) * | 2009-01-27 | 2012-03-21 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Water-in-oil emulsified sunscreen cosmetics |
WO2012172622A1 (en) * | 2011-06-13 | 2012-12-20 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Solid water-in-oil-type emulsion cosmetic |
JP6533087B2 (en) * | 2015-04-08 | 2019-06-19 | 株式会社伊勢半 | Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic |
US20200129390A1 (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2020-04-30 | Kao Corporation | Water-in-oil emulsion composition |
JP7565141B2 (en) * | 2017-05-30 | 2024-10-10 | 花王株式会社 | Water-in-oil emulsion composition |
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JP3890547B2 (en) * | 1997-08-21 | 2007-03-07 | 株式会社伊那貿易商会 | Cosmetics |
JPH11106310A (en) * | 1997-09-30 | 1999-04-20 | Shiseido Co Ltd | W/o emulsion composition |
JP3510106B2 (en) * | 1998-06-03 | 2004-03-22 | 株式会社コーセー | Eye makeup cosmetics |
JP2000044429A (en) * | 1998-08-03 | 2000-02-15 | Kose Corp | Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic |
JP2000053554A (en) * | 1998-08-10 | 2000-02-22 | Kao Corp | Water-in-oil emulsion cosmetics |
JP3619981B2 (en) * | 1998-10-16 | 2005-02-16 | 株式会社コーセー | Eye makeup cosmetics |
JP2000327524A (en) * | 1999-05-17 | 2000-11-28 | Nippon Nachiyuraru Prod:Kk | Cosmetic |
JP3907351B2 (en) * | 1999-08-20 | 2007-04-18 | 株式会社コーセー | Powder composition for cosmetic preparation and powder dispersion in oil for cosmetic preparation |
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