JP4736112B2 - Cosmetic base material and cosmetic comprising the same - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic base that has both excellent feel such as a smooth feeling and a moist feeling, and moisturizing properties, and has excellent blending stability in an oily preparation, and a cosmetic blended with the same.

As a recent consumer trend, cosmetics tend to be preferred to have a lighter touch, and there is a demand for cosmetics that are refreshing or smooth and that have a good moisturizing effect.
In general, a moisturizing agent is blended for the purpose of imparting a moisturizing effect. Most of the moisturizers are water-soluble polyhydric alcohols typified by glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol. In addition, oily preparations such as water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetics and oily cosmetics cannot be highly blended in terms of stability.
Therefore, in order to impart a moisturizing effect in oily preparations, hydrocarbons such as squalane and petrolatum, fats and oils such as olive oil and jojoba oil, and sterols such as cholesterol are often used as oily moisturizing agents. These oil-based moisturizers have a better feeling of use than water-soluble polyhydric alcohols, but they are inferior in the moisturizing effect and require a large amount of emulsifier when blended to increase the moisturizing effect. As a result, the feeling of smoothness decreases. That is, there is a demand for the development of a cosmetic base that has a good moisturizing effect and a smooth feeling in an oily preparation and that can be highly blended.
Under such circumstances, in order to give both the moisturizing feeling and the smooth feeling in the oily preparation, a combination of a polyglycerin higher fatty acid ester and a nonionic surfactant (for example, Patent Documents 1 and 2), N-long chain An acyl-neutral amino acid alkyl or alkenyl ester (for example, Patent Document 3), a combination of a polyoxyalkylene-added alkyl glucoside and a lipophilic polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone (for example, Patent Document 4), and the like have been disclosed. The present situation is that the effect is not acquired.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-208444 JP-A-6-219923 JP 2000-355331 A JP-A-10-29912

An object of the present invention is to provide a base for oily pharmaceutical cosmetics having both excellent feel and high moisturizing property and excellent compatibility with oily components, and a cosmetic containing the same.

That is, the present invention is as follows.
(1) A base for an oily pharmaceutical cosmetic comprising an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following formula (I).

_{Z- {O (A O) l} (EO) m - (BO) n H} a (I)

( Wherein Z represents a hydroxyl group from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitan, alkylglycoside, diglycerin, xylitol, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose, maltitol or a mixture thereof. a residue obtained by removing, a is a number of hydroxyl groups which have been removed in Z, is a = 3 to 9, AO represents an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms, EO is an oxyethylene group, l and m Are the average added mole numbers of oxyalkylene groups having 3 to 4 carbon atoms and oxyethylene groups, 1 ≦ l ≦ 50, 1 ≦ m ≦ 50, and the weight ratio of AO to EO (AO / EO) is 1. / 5-5 is / 1, AO and EO is .BO, appended to the random form oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms, n Is the average number of moles added, and 5 <n ≦ 30.)
(2) Z is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitan, alkylglycoside, diglycerin, xylitol, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose or a mixture thereof. Is a cosmetic base.
(3) For cosmetics wherein Z is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitan, alkylglycoside, diglycerin, xylitol, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol, or a mixture thereof Base.
(4) A cosmetic base wherein Z is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glycerin, trehalose or a mixture thereof.
(5) the cosmetic base agent 0.01 to 50% by weight, an oil component from 0.1 to 80 wt%, and a moisturizing agent by blending 0.01-30 wt% oil-based formulation cosmetic.

  The cosmetic base of the present invention has both an excellent feel such as a smooth feeling and a moist feeling, a moisturizing feeling, can be stably blended in an oily preparation, and exhibits good performance when blended in a cosmetic. A base and a cosmetic comprising the same.

  In the alkylene oxide derivative represented by the formula (I), Z is a residue excluding the hydroxyl group of the compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and a is the number of hydroxyl groups of the compound of Z and is 3 to 9. As a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, glycerin, trimethylolpropane if a = 3, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitan, alkylglycoside, diglycerin if a = 4, xylitol if a = 5 , If a = 6, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol, if a = 8, sucrose, trehalose, if a = 9, maltitol, and mixtures thereof. Z is preferably a residue excluding the hydroxyl group of the compound having 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, and satisfies 3 ≦ a ≦ 6. In a <= 2, there exists a tendency for the mixing | blending stability to an oil-based formulation to deteriorate that it is inferior to compatibility with oil-based components, such as fats and oils. When 10 ≦ a, a sticky feeling is generated, and the desired effect cannot be obtained.

AO is an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms, and examples thereof include an oxypropylene group, an oxybutylene group, an oxyisobutylene group, an oxytrimethylene group, and an oxytetramethylene group. An oxypropylene group, an oxybutylene group, and more preferably an oxypropylene group.
l is the average added mole number of AO, and 1 ≦ l ≦ 50, preferably 2 ≦ l ≦ 20. m is an average added mole number of EO, and 1 ≦ m ≦ 50, preferably 2 ≦ m ≦ 20. If l is 0, a sticky feeling is produced, and if it exceeds 50, the moisturizing effect is lowered. Further, if m is 0, the moisturizing effect is lowered, and if it exceeds 50, a sticky feeling is produced.

The weight ratio (AO / EO) between AO and EO is 1/5 to 5/1, preferably 1/4 to 4/1. If it is less than 1/5, a sticky feeling is produced, and if it is greater than 5/1, the moisturizing feeling is lowered.
AO and EO are added randomly.

BO is an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms, and examples thereof include an oxybutylene group, an oxyisobutylene group, and an oxytetramethylene group. An oxybutylene group is preferred.
n is the average added mole number of BO, 5 <n ≦ 30, preferably 6 ≦ n ≦ 20. If it is 5 or less, the hydrophilicity becomes strong and the compatibility with the oil component is poor, and if it exceeds 30, the intended moisturizing effect cannot be obtained.
The total of the average added mole number 1 of AO and the average added mole number BO of the present invention is preferably 6 ≦ l + n ≦ 50, more preferably 8 ≦ l + n ≦ 40.

The alkylene oxide derivative represented by the formula (I) of the present invention can be produced by a known method. For example, it can be obtained by subjecting a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups to addition polymerization of ethylene oxide and an alkylene oxide having 3 to 4 carbon atoms and then reacting the alkylene oxide having 4 carbon atoms.
The form of the oil-based preparation cosmetic comprising the cosmetic base of the present invention is particularly a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or oily cosmetic, and more specifically, a moisturizing cosmetic or cleansing. Cosmetics, hair cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, etc.

The amount of cosmetic base into the cosmetic composition of the present invention is from 0.01 to 5 0 wt% blend.
Moreover, the cosmetic of this invention becomes a thing with both favorable touch and moisture retention by mix | blending an oil-based component.
0.01 to 50% by weight of the base of the present invention and 0.01 to 80% by weight of the oily component, more preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight of the base of the present invention and 0.1 to 70% by weight of the oily component, Even more preferably, a combination of 1 to 20% by weight of the base of the present invention and 1 to 50% by weight of the oil component is effective. If the base of the present invention is more than 50% by weight and the oil component is more than 80% by weight, a sticky feeling may occur, which is not preferable.

  As an oily component, the component normally used for cosmetics can be contained. Examples of such components include petrolatum, squalane, squalene, microcrystalline wax, liquid paraffin, liquid isoparaffin, polyisobutene, ceresin and other hydrocarbons; hexyl alcohol, heptyl alcohol, octyl alcohol, nonyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, undecyl Alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, aralkyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, octyldodeca Alcohols having 6 or more carbon atoms such as diol and hexyldecanol; caproic acid, caprylic acid, cap Acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, myristic acid, palm oil fatty acid, beef tallow fatty acid, palm oil fatty acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid Fatty acids having 6 or more carbon atoms such as arachidic acid, behenic acid, arachidonic acid, erucic acid and their triglycerides; diethyl sebacate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isocetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isopropyl palmitate, palmitic acid 2-ethylhexyl, isopropyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, trimethylpropane triisostearate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isomyristate Ester oil such as teal, isocetyl myristate, hexyl laurate, ethyl oleate, isostearyl pivalate, isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol didecanoate Olive oil, corn oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, palm oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, flaxseed oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, macadamia nut oil, tea seed oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil Animal and vegetable fats and oils such as safflower oil, kyounin oil, beef tallow and lard; silicones such as linear and cyclic dimethylpolysiloxane and polyether modified silicone; cholesterol, sitosterol, campesterol, stigmaster Examples thereof include sterols such as rolls, brush castrol and phytosterols. Preferred are hydrocarbons, triglycerides having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, animal and vegetable oils, ester oils and sterols. Moreover, you may use these 1 type, or 2 or more types.

  The cosmetic of the present invention further enhances the moisturizing effect by blending a moisturizing agent. Preferably it is 0.01-30 weight%, More preferably, it is 1-10 weight%. If it exceeds 30% by weight, a sticky feeling may appear, which is not preferable. As the humectant, any component usually used in cosmetics can be contained. Examples of such optional components include glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, 3-methyl-1,3-butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol. , Glucose, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, trehalose, maltitol, mannitol, chitosan, urea, sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, sodium lactate, sodium ribonucleic acid, aspartic acid, sodium alginate, alanine, glycine, cystine, cysteine , Serine, arginine, lysine, ashitaba extract, altea extract, aloe extract, oyster extract, seaweed extract, carinje Vinegar, raspberry extract, cucumber extract, quince seed extract, Zegna Oy extract, placenta extract, loofah extract, Yuriekisu, apple extract, royal jelly, such as lactoferrin, and the like. Preferred are glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and sorbitol, and one or more of these can be used.

Oite the cosmetic of the present invention, if necessary, within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention, cosmetic, various components commonly used in such pharmaceutical, i.e., vitamins, UV absorbers, water Examples include water-soluble polymers, antioxidants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, sequestering agents, ethanol, thickeners, preservatives, dyes, pigments, and fragrances. it can.
The cosmetic of the present invention can contain an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the formula (I), an oily component, a moisturizing agent, and other optional components, but the total amount exceeds 100% by weight in the above compounding amount. It can mix | blend in the range which is not.

Synthesis example 1
Synthesis of polyoxybutylene (48 mol, n = 8) polyoxyethylene (30 mol, m = 5) polyoxypropylene (30 mol, l = 5) sorbitol (a = 6) ether (polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene Is a block polymer)
After 182 g of sorbitol and 25 g of potassium hydroxide as a catalyst were charged into an autoclave and the air in the autoclave was replaced with dry nitrogen, the catalyst was completely dissolved at 140 ° C. with stirring. Next, 1740 g of propylene oxide was dropped with a dropping device and stirred for 2 hours. Subsequently, 1320 g of ethylene oxide was dropped by a dropping device and stirred for 2 hours. Further, 3456 g of butylene oxide was dropped with a dropping device, and the mixture was stirred for 2 hours to be reacted. Thereafter, the reaction composition was taken out from the autoclave, neutralized with hydrochloric acid to pH 6 to 7, and treated at a reduced pressure of -0.095 MPa (gauge pressure) at 100 ° C for 1 hour in order to remove the contained water. Further, filtration was performed to remove the salt generated after the treatment, and a base of Compound 1 was obtained.

Synthesis example 2
Synthesis of polyoxybutylene (27 mol, n = 9) polyoxyethylene (10 mol, m = 3.3) polyoxypropylene (10 mol, l = 3.3) glyceryl (a = 3) ether (polyoxyethylene And polyoxypropylene are random polymers)
After charging 92 g of glycerin and 25 g of potassium hydroxide as a catalyst into the autoclave and replacing the air in the autoclave with dry nitrogen, the catalyst was completely dissolved at 140 ° C. with stirring. Next, a mixture of 440 g of ethylene oxide and 580 g of propylene oxide was dropped with a dropping device and stirred for 2 hours. Subsequently, 1944 g of butylene oxide was dropped with a dropping device and stirred for 2 hours. Thereafter, the reaction composition was taken out from the autoclave, neutralized with hydrochloric acid to pH 6 to 7, and treated at a reduced pressure of -0.095 MPa (gauge pressure) at 100 ° C for 1 hour in order to remove the contained water. Further, filtration was performed to remove the salt produced after the treatment, and a base of Compound 2 was obtained.
In the same manner as in Synthesis Example 1 or Synthesis Example 2, Compounds 3-6 and Comparative Substances 7-12 shown in Table 1 were synthesized.

(Compatibility evaluation)
The compatibility with fats and oils (olive oil), which is widely used in cosmetics, was evaluated. The evaluation method was as follows: A 20% olive oil solution of compounds 1 to 12 was prepared, stirred at 25 ° C., and allowed to stand at the same temperature for 30 minutes, and evaluated according to the following criteria. It was.

○: Dissolution △: Dispersion (cloudiness)
×: Separation

Table 1 also shows the results.
The compounds 2, 3, 5, 6 of the present invention and the compounds 1, 4 of the reference example were all passed. None of Comparative Examples 1 to 6 had good compatibility.

(Sensory evaluation test)
(A) Compounds 1 to 6 as component, (a ′) Comparative substances 7 to 12 as component, (b) Optional oily component as component, (c) Optional humectant as component, An emulsion was prepared at (% by weight) and subjected to sensory evaluation.
<Adjustment method>
Each component was heated to 80 ° C., emulsified by stirring, and then purified water was gradually added at the same temperature while stirring. After cooling to 40 ° C., an emulsion was obtained.

Using ten professional panelists, the absence of stickiness (smooth feeling) and the moisturizing feeling of the compounds were evaluated. For the evaluation method, after washing the upper arm portion with soap, an emulsion was applied, and an average value evaluated on a five-point basis for the feeling of stickiness and moisturizing feeling immediately after application to 30 minutes was adopted. A score of 3.5 or higher was judged to be good.
<No stickiness (smooth feeling)>
5: Very good feel, very light feel 4: Good feel, light feel 3: Slightly bad feel, a little catching feel 2: Slow feel, heavy feel 1: Very bad feel, easy feel <Moisturizing feeling>
5: There is no bulkiness and it is sufficiently moisturized 4: There is no bulkiness and it is moistened 3: There is a little bulkiness and there is little moisture 2: There is bulkiness and there is no moisture Condition 1: A state of extreme bulkiness and insufficient moisture

Table 2 also shows the evaluation results.

The bases 2, 3, 5, 6 of the present invention and the base materials 1 and 4 of the reference examples satisfy both the points of no stickiness and moisturizing feeling. However, the comparative example does not satisfy the two properties at the same time.

Claims (5)

A base for oily pharmaceutical cosmetics comprising an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following formula (I).

_{Z- {O (A O) l} (EO) m - (BO) n H} a (I)

( Wherein Z represents a hydroxyl group from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitan, alkylglycoside, diglycerin, xylitol, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose, maltitol or a mixture thereof. a residue obtained by removing, a is a the number of hydroxyl groups which have been removed in Z, is a = 3 to 9, AO represents an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms, EO is an oxyethylene group, l and m is the average number of moles of oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms and oxyethylene group, 1 ≦ l ≦ 50, 1 ≦ m ≦ 50, and the weight ratio of AO to EO (AO / EO) is 1 / 5-5 was / 1, AO and EO is .BO, appended to the random form oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms , N is the average number of moles added, and 5 <n ≦ 30.) Z is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitan, alkylglycoside, diglycerin, xylitol, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose, or a mixture thereof . The cosmetic base according to claim 1.   The Z is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glycerin, trimethylolpropane, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sorbitan, alkylglycoside, diglycerin, xylitol, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, inositol, or a mixture thereof. Cosmetic base.   The cosmetic base according to claim 2, wherein Z is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glycerin, trehalose or a mixture thereof. The cosmetic base according to any one of claims 1 to 4, 0.01 to 50% by weight, the oily component to 0.1 to 80% by weight, and the humectant to 0.01 to 30% by weight. % Oily cosmetic preparation .