JP4261791B2

JP4261791B2 - Elastic clothing

Info

Publication number: JP4261791B2
Application number: JP2001340072A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 大谷　　圭; まさみ斉藤; 真由美小川
Original assignee: Wacoal Corp
Current assignee: Wacoal Corp
Priority date: 2001-11-05
Filing date: 2001-11-05
Publication date: 2009-04-30
Anticipated expiration: 2021-11-05
Also published as: JP2003147618A

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、適度な伸縮性、優れたファッション性などを有し、とくに裁断した縁をそのままの状態で形成した新規な伸縮性衣類に関する。とくにファンデーション衣類として好適である。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
婦人用衣類の多様化、ファッション化の傾向は、時代とともにますます進行し、なかでも、適度の伸縮性があって身体に気持ちよくフィットする、薄地で編目の美しい、かつ下着のヘムラインが外衣を通して外観に現れない、ファッショナブルなファンデーション衣類に対する要求が大きい。加えて、縁の始末（へミングのこと）をしないで切り放しのまま形成し、お洒落な着衣として楽しみたいという傾向がある。
【０００３】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
従来の衣類では裁ち目が解れるのを防止するために何らかの始末をする必要があった。この始末のことを、始末をする、へミングなどと称し、その方法は部位や素材によって様々であって、たとえば、布端を折り返したり、別布や伸縮テープを付けて縫合したり、糸かがりを行っていた。この作業は衣類の縫製において可成りの負担であり、しかも、下着のヘムラインが凸条になって外衣に現れたり、着用感を損なうなどの問題になっている。
【０００４】
従来、衣類の縁を始末不要な状態にするには、パワーネット編地などを糸抜きしたり、レースの端部をカットして縁をほつれにくくした編地を衣類に縫製する方法があった。しかし、いずれの方法も提供できる衣類の縁は直線ラインまたは実質的に直線に近いラインであり、また上下に平行なラインでしか形成することができなかった。
【０００５】
直線や曲線、あるいはこれらを組み合わせた様々な形状、様々な角度の始末不要な端部を形成し、かつ全体に、張りやこし、緊締力がある編地を使って、始末不要な編地の縁を衣類の縁にすることができれば、縁の始末が不要であって、緊締力も有する衣類を形成することができる。幅が平行でないものでも上下方向に全く縫合箇所のない見頃から衣類を形成することができ、縫合箇所が少なく、段差の少ないフラットな衣類を楽しむことができる。本発明は前記の要求と縫製の合理化とを課題として研究し、完成したものである。
【０００６】
【課題を解決するための手段】
前記の課題を解決する本発明の手段について説明する。なお、説明に先立って本
願明細書において使用する主な用語の内容を説明する。「伸縮性たて編地」は、下
記の本発明伸縮性衣類に使用する、非弾性糸と弾性糸とを同行させた１×１編み組
織を基本とする伸縮性たて編地のいずれかを指す。「形成」には、ミシンなどによ
る縫合、接着剤や加熱を用いた接着接合などの接合全体を含み、編地などの布類か
ら衣類を作ることを意味する。「ヘミングレス」は、縁部を、別布を縫着したり、
折り返し、糸かがりなどによるほつれ防止のための縁部始末を行っていない編地や
衣類の縁を意味する。
【０００７】
さて、本発明は前記の課題を解決する手段として、編組織が非弾性糸と弾性糸と
を同行させた１×１編み組織であって、かつ各編針において非弾性糸と弾性糸のう
ちの少なくとも１方が閉じ目により編成された伸縮性たて編地を含み、さらに前記
伸縮性たて編地の縁の一部又は全部が裁断されて切りはなされた状態のままの、す
なわちへミングレスのままで形成されていることを特徴とする伸縮性衣類を提供す
る。
【０００８】
前記の伸縮性たて編地は、製造に際し、１８０℃を下らない温度においてプレセットまたは／およびヒートセットを施し、あるいは、１インチ当たり６５ウエールを超える密度に編成し、あるいは、非弾性糸のランナーを弾性糸のランナーよりも大きく、非弾性糸のランナーを８５〜１２０ｃｍ／ラック、弾性糸のランナーを７０〜１１０ｃｍ／ラックにして編成されていることが望ましい。これらの編地編成条件は単独でも、また組み合わせて実施してもそれぞれに編目の安定効果を奏する。
【０００９】
そして、本発明の伸縮性衣類には、目的により、部分的に他の部分よりも繊度の
大きな弾性糸を編糸に用い、または繊度が大きいか複数本の弾性糸を挿入した、締
付パワーの強化部分を含んで編成されている伸縮性たて編地を用いることができる
。前記した伸縮性たて編地は、いずれも縁の一部又は全部を裁断してへミングレス
のままで使用しても、ほつれを生じにくく、大いに有用である。
【００１０】
また、本発明は前記した伸縮性衣類であって、かつ、用いた伸縮性たて編地が、衣類の少なくとも上端および下端の縁を構成し、前記の縁がへミングレスのままに形成されていることを特徴とする伸縮性衣類、あるいは伸縮性たて編地を上端および下端の縁を構成する上下方向に継ぎ目のない同じ１枚の見頃として含み、形成されていることを特徴とする伸縮性衣類、および、上端および下端の縁を構成するラインが、相互に非平行であることを特徴とする伸縮性衣類を提供する。
【００１１】
そして、本発明の伸縮性衣類は、衣類の縁部となる箇所を伸縮性たて編地を編地の編み立て方向に対し編始め側となるように見頃を裁断し、その裁断縁をへミングレスのままの縁として衣類の縁部となるように形成することが望ましく、さらに好ましくは、伸縮性たて編地の編み方向に対し左右にそれぞれ４５度を超えない範囲で裁断した裁断縁を、へミングレスのままの縁として衣類の縁部として用いる。
【００１２】
また、前記した伸縮性たて編地は、ずれも複数枚重ねて貼り合わせた積層伸縮性
編地としても伸縮性衣類に有効に利用することができる。具体的には、ブラジャー
類又はブラジャー類に相当するスポーツ用衣類バック布として好ましく用いること
ができる。
【００１３】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明について実施形態例をあげながら必要により図面を参照し具体的に説明する。まず、本発明に係る伸縮性衣類に使用する伸縮性たて編地を簡単に説明する。
【００１４】
本発明伸縮性衣類は、非弾性糸と弾性糸とを同行させた１×１編み組織であって、かつ各編針において非弾性糸と弾性糸のうちの少なくとも１方が閉じ目により編成された伸縮性たて編地を含んで形成する。編糸に非弾性糸と弾性糸とを用いて適度の伸縮性を付与している。１×１の編み組織は編目が揃って美しく薄いという特長があって糸脚が短い上、各編針において非弾性糸と弾性糸のうちの少なくとも１方を閉じ目により編成することにより、編目の安定、ほつれの防止をはかっている。また、本発明の伸縮性衣類には、伸縮性たて編地のほか、伸縮性の有無に関係なく、前記以外の編地、織地、不織布、皮革などを任意に選択し使用してもよい。
【００１５】
伸縮性たて編地の中でも、非弾性糸と弾性糸のいずれもが閉じ目により編成されている伸縮性たて編地（Ａ：図１に示す）、非弾性糸が閉じ目により、弾性糸が開き目により編成されている伸縮性たて編地（Ｂ：図２に示す）、および非弾性糸と弾性糸とがともに開き目と閉じ目とを交互に、ただし、同じ編針においては非弾性糸の開き目に対して弾性糸は閉じ目、同様に閉じ目に対しては開き目が組み合わされ編成されている伸縮性たて編地（Ｃ：図３に示す）が実用的で優れている。ＡおよびＢの編地はとくに外観に優れ、Ｃはループドロップしにくいという特長がある。
【００１６】
使用する非弾性糸としては、伸縮性衣類の種類により、ナイロンやポリエステルなどの合成繊維、レーヨンなどの半合成繊維、絹や綿などの天然繊維のいずれでも、またフィラメント糸、紡績糸のいずれも使用することができる。なかでも吸水性に富むナイロンはインナーウエア用編地として好ましく用いられる。弾性糸についてもとくに制限はないが、一般にポリウレタン弾性糸やその被覆弾性糸等を使用する。
【００１７】
また、伸縮性たて編地には、安定性、ほつれ防止効果などを得る目的でプレセット処理または／およびヒートセット処理の施されているものが、好適である。処理温度は、装置の形状、プレセット処理時間、ヒートセット処理時間、素材の種類、編地の厚さなどにもよるが、低くとも１８０℃を下らない温度、好ましくは１８５℃を下らない温度で、さらに確実に前記の効果を得るには１９０℃〜１９５℃の範囲で施されていると、編地の一部が軟化し軽く融着して編地の形態が安定し、ほつれにくくなる。処理時間は、たとえば６チャンバー構成の装置を用い、１５〜４０ｍ／分程度、好ましくは２４〜３６ｍ／分程度がよい。
【００１８】
また、一般的な編地では仕上巾を１６０ｃｍ前後にするが、伸縮性たて編地では可能な範囲で高密度に編成したものが、伸縮性衣類において編目の美しさを保持しつつ、その安定性を向上するために望ましい。使用する編糸の繊度等にもよるが、１インチ当たり６５ウエールを超える、好ましくは７０ウエール前後の密度に編地を編成し、編地のよこ伸びの割合を大きくするとよい。ただし、非弾性糸にセルロース糸や綿糸が編み込まれている場合はこの限りではない。
【００１９】
さらに、通常に較べて使用糸量を増やし、非弾性糸のランナーを弾性糸のランナーよりも大きくアンバランスな伸縮性たて編地を好ましく使用する。具体的には、通常８０ｃｍ／ラック以下の非弾性糸のランナーを８５〜１２０ｃｍ／ラック、好ましくは９５〜１１５ｃｍ／ラックとし、通常６０ｃｍ／ラック以下の弾性糸のランナーを７０〜１１０ｃｍ／ラック、好ましくは７５〜１０５ｃｍ／ラックにして編成する。
【００２０】
本発明伸縮性衣類においては、部分的に他の部分よりも繊度の大きな弾性糸を編糸に用い、あるいは繊度が大きいか複数本の弾性糸を挿入して、締付パワーを強化した部分が一体に編成された伸縮性たて編地を有効に利用することができる。部分的に締付パワーの強化部分を必要とする婦人用の下着やガードル類を形成する目的に有用であり、縫製コスト低減にも役立つ。また、弾性糸または非弾性糸を挿入し、所要の伸度や伸縮パワーを付与した伸縮性たて編地を編成し、あるいは編目の安定性を向上させて使用してもよい。
【００２１】
本発明伸縮性衣類では、さらに、使用した前記の伸縮性たて編地を縁の一部又は
全部が裁断されて切り離された状態、すなわち縁に始末を施さないでへミングレス
のまま用いて形成する。具体的に実施形態例をあげて説明する。これらのへミング
レスな縁を含む本発明伸縮性衣類は、前記伸縮性たて編地がもつ、とくに注目すべ
き切断縁においてほつれにくいという特長を利用したものであって、機能性、ファ
ッション性、あるいは経済性における大きな利点がある。
【００２２】
さて、本発明の伸縮性衣類にあってへミングレスとなる裾などの衣類の縁の形状には、極端に先の尖ったギザギザ縁などの極端な形状を除き特別の制限はなく、伸縮性たて編地のどこを裁断しても、ほつれが生じず、縁始末を行う必要がないことから湾曲したカーブラインや波形ラインなど好みに応じて自由に採用することができる。また、本発明伸縮性衣類では、衣類の上、下の両端部ともに伸縮性たて編地を使用してヘミングレスに、かつ上端および下端の縁を構成するラインを、相互に非平行に形成するなど、機能的、デザイン的に従来とは比較にならない広範囲の自由設計ができる。さらに、上端および下端の縁を構成する見頃を、縫い目のない同じ１枚の前記伸縮性たて編地を用いて形成し、よこ方向に走る縫い目をなくしてもよい。衣類の段差が少なくフラットなものになって着用感が向上する。
【００２３】
図４に本発明伸縮性衣類実施例のショーツを示した。このショーツでは、ヒップ部を左、右に分け、それぞれ上下方向に１枚の伸縮性たて編地をヒップ布１，２として用い、下端の裾部３とともに上端のウエスト部４をヘミングレスにしてよこ方向の縫合部を省いた。また、裾部の縁のライン３に、従来は実用的に１枚もので縁始末を行わないままでは、不可能であった斬新的な波形を採用してファッション性を付与した。この様にウエストから裾までをつながった１枚の布で形成していながら、ウエストライン、裾ラインともに縁始末を行わず、編地から裁断した見頃の縁部をそのままショーツのウエストライン、裾ラインとして使用している。このショーツは、ヒップに適度の締付力を付与して体形を整える効果があり、裾部に縁始末による違和感がなく、デザイン的にも好評で着用した外衣に下着のラインが表出することはなかった。そして、ショーツのウエストラインと裾ラインという上、下の両縁においても、任意の連続的にスムーズな曲線とすることができるようになった。
【００２４】
本発明伸縮性衣類において、端部の縁をヘミングレスに設計する際には、伸縮性たて編地を裁断するに当たってヘミングレスの裁断縁を、編地の編み立て方向に対し編始め側において裁断できるようにしておくことが好ましい。編終り側の裁断縁に対し編み始め側の裁断縁の方がほつれにくいからである。へミングレスのままの縁を、編地の編み方向（地の目方向）と平行に近い、つまり編み方向と角度をつけないように見頃を裁断するとほつれが生じにくい。つまり、編地の編始め側方向に対し左右にそれぞれ４５度を超えない範囲で裁断することができればほつれにくく好ましい。編終り側での裁断ラインが４５度に近づく程ほつれが目立ちやすくなるので、これにヘミングレスになる裁断ラインが重ならないように留意する必要がある。図５は、この裁断について理解を助けるため、ヘミングレスになる編地の縁と伸縮性たて編地の裁断方向との関係を示す参考図である。
【００２５】
前記の伸縮性たて編地は、その長所を生かして各種の衣類に利用することができるが、縁始末不要な任意の形状の裁断された見頃縁部を少なくとも下半身部を含んで着用されるガードルやショーツのウエスト部や裾部、ブラジャーのバック布の上下縁としてとして使用すると好適である。たとえば、ヒップ布の裾部が大きなカーブのへミングレスに形成されているショーツなどのパンティ類はシンプルなデザインで着用感に優れる。裾部縁の好ましいカーブａの形状について図６を参照して説明すると、正面を前に左右両脇で折り畳んで平置きした状態で、ヒップ布の裾部上端ｂと裾部下端ｃを結んだ直線ｄと、カーブしたヒップ布の下辺の最も突出した点ｅとを垂線ｆで結んだとき、垂線ｆの長さが１５ｍｍ以上になるような曲線に設計することができる。裾部の縁をへミングレスに、前記形状のカーブを描くショートのボトム衣類は、ヒップの立体形状にそい、かつ裾に段差を生じずにヒップへのフィット性を向上させる効果がある。
【００２６】
衣類によってはとくに強い伸縮パワーあるいは、張りを必要にする部位がある。そのような、より強い伸縮パワーあるいは、張りを求められる部位においては、同じ伸縮性たて編地を複数枚重ねて貼り合わせ、あるいは縫い合わせ積層して用いることができる。通常、同じ編地をヘミングレスで２枚、接着剤を用いてドット状に貼り合わせる。そしてたとえば、図７に示すブラジャーや水着のバック布１１などに用いるとよい。１枚では強度が十分でないため、着常時に上下幅が保たれず、バック布がくしゃくしになる恐れがあるが、前記の積層伸縮性たて編地を用いて強度と張りとをもたせ問題を解決することができる。編地を地の目方向を同方向に重ねることにより、伸びをもたせたまま強度と張りとを増強することができる。
【００２７】
このほか、本発明伸縮性衣類には、必要により各種の後加工を施して付加価値を高めた伸縮性たて編地を用いることができる。たとえば、伸縮性たて編地に加熱エンボス加工やパンチング加工を行って所要の模様を施す。また、ブラジャーカップなどに使用するためにモールド加工により所要の型付けを行うことができる。さらに混紡、交編などの手段で第３の繊維を混用し、編成後に第３の繊維を薬品の捺染等によって部分的に除去し模様を出す、いわゆるオパール加工を施した美しい伸縮性たて編地を用いて伸縮性衣類を形成できる。
【００２８】
【発明の効果】
本発明伸縮性衣類は、着用者にに適度の締付力を付与して体形を整える効果があり、従来の縁部始末による違和感がなく、デザイン的にも魅力的であり、縁部始末を行わずとも、ほつれが生じないため縫製が合理化されて経済的でもある。また、下着に用いた場合、そのラインが外衣に及ぶことはない。かつ、裾などの衣類縁部のラインを連続的にスムーズな任意の曲線とすることができる。本発明伸縮性衣類は、たとえば、ガードル、ショーツ、ボディスーツ、ブラジャー、シャツなどの肌着類、ランジェリー類、レオタード、スパッツ、水着などのスポーツ衣類として有用である。勿論のこと男性用伸縮性衣類としても有用である。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】非弾性糸、弾性糸共に閉じ目で編成された伸縮性たて編地の組織
【図２】非弾性糸が閉じ目、弾性糸が開き目により編成された伸縮性たて編地の組織
【図３】非弾性糸、弾性糸が共に開き目と閉じ目を交互に、かつ同じ編針ではいずれかが閉じ目に編成された伸縮性たて編地の組織
【図４】本発明伸縮性衣類の一例
【図５】ヘミングレスになる編地の縁と伸縮性たて編地の裁断方向との関係を示す参考図
【図６】裾部縁の好ましいカーブ形状を示す説明図
【図７】本発明伸縮性衣類の一例
【符号の説明】
１：ヒップ布（伸縮性たて編地）２：ヒップ布（伸縮性たて編地）
３：下端裾部縁（へミングレス）
４：上端ウエスト部縁（へミングレス）５：縫合線
１１：ヒップ布（伸縮性たて編地）
２１：バック布（積層伸縮性たて編地）[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a novel stretchable garment having moderate stretchability, excellent fashionability, and the like, in particular, with the cut edge formed as it is. It is particularly suitable as a foundation garment.
[0002]
[Prior art]
The trend toward diversification and fashion of women's clothing has been increasing with the times, and in particular, it has moderate elasticity and a comfortable fit to the body. There is a great demand for fashionable foundation clothing that does not appear in the market. In addition, there is a tendency to enjoy as a fashionable dress by forming it as it is without cutting the edges (hemming).
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
In conventional garments, it was necessary to clean up something in order to prevent the breakage. This process is called cleaning, hemming, etc., and there are various methods depending on the part and the material. For example, the end of the cloth is folded, stitched with another cloth or elastic tape, or threaded. Had gone. This work is a considerable burden when sewing clothes, and the hemline of the underwear becomes a ridge and appears on the outer garment, and the wearing feeling is impaired.
[0004]
Conventionally, in order to make the edge of the garment unnecessary, there has been a method of threading the power net knitted fabric or the like, and sewing the knitted fabric that has the edge of the lace cut to prevent the edge from fraying. . However, the edge of the garment that can be provided by either method is a straight line or a line that is substantially close to a straight line, and can only be formed by a line parallel to the top and bottom.
[0005]
A straight line, a curved line, or a combination of these shapes, various end angles of various angles are formed, and the entire knitted fabric with tension, tension and tightening force is used to If the edge can be the edge of the garment, it is not necessary to clean the edge, and a garment having a tightening force can be formed. Even if the widths are not parallel, clothing can be formed from the best when there are no stitches in the vertical direction, and flat clothing with few stitches and few steps can be enjoyed. The present invention has been completed by researching the above requirements and rationalization of sewing as problems.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The means of the present invention for solving the above problems will be described. Prior to the explanation, the contents of the main terms used in this specification will be explained. “Stretch warp knitted fabric” is a stretch warp knitted fabric based on a 1 × 1 knitted fabric with non-elastic yarn and elastic yarn used in the elastic garment of the present invention described below. Point to either . “Formation” includes making a garment out of fabrics such as knitted fabric, including the entire joint such as sewing with a sewing machine, adhesive bonding using an adhesive or heat. "Hemmingless" can be sewn with a separate cloth
This means the edge of knitted fabric or clothing that has not been cleaned to prevent fraying due to folding or threading.
[0007]
In the present invention, as means for solving the above-described problems, the knitting structure is a 1 × 1 knitting structure in which an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn are accompanied, and each of the knitting needles has one of an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn. Including at least one elastic warp knitted fabric knitted by closed eyes , and
The edge of the stretch warp knitted fabric is partly or entirely cut and cut.
In other words, the present invention provides a stretchable garment characterized by being formed without hemless .
[0008]
The stretch warp knitted fabric is pre-set and / or heat-set at a temperature not lower than 180 ° C., or knitted to a density exceeding 65 wales per inch, or an inelastic yarn runner. Is larger than the elastic yarn runner, the inelastic yarn runner is preferably 85 to 120 cm / rack, and the elastic yarn runner is preferably 70 to 110 cm / rack. Even if these knitted fabric knitting conditions are used alone or in combination, each has a stitch stabilizing effect.
[0009]
The elastic garment of the present invention has a tightening power in which an elastic yarn having a fineness partially larger than that of other portions is used as a knitting yarn, or a plurality of elastic yarns having a high fineness or a plurality of elastic yarns are inserted depending on the purpose. An elastic warp knitted fabric that is knitted to include the reinforcing portion of can be used. The stretch warp knitted fabrics described above are extremely useful because they are less likely to fray even if they are used without being hemmed by cutting part or all of the edges.
[0010]
Further, the present invention is the stretch garment described above, and the stretch warp knitted fabric used constitutes at least the upper edge and the lower edge of the garment, and the edge is formed without hemming. Stretchable garment characterized by having a stretchable knitted fabric or stretchable knitted fabric as a single piece that is seamlessly formed in the vertical direction constituting the edges of the upper and lower ends A stretchable garment characterized in that the garment and the lines constituting the edges of the upper and lower ends are non-parallel to each other.
[0011]
The stretchable garment of the present invention cuts the best time so that the edge of the garment is stretched and the knitted fabric is on the knitting start side with respect to the knitting direction of the knitted fabric. It is desirable to form the rim of the garment as a rimless rim, and more preferably, a cutting edge cut in a range not exceeding 45 degrees to the left and right with respect to the knitting direction of the stretchable knitted fabric. Used as an edge of clothing as an edge without hemming.
[0012]
Further, the above-described elastic warp knitted fabric can be effectively used for stretchable garments as a laminated elastic knitted fabric in which a plurality of misalignments are laminated and bonded together. Specifically, it can be preferably used as a backcloth for sports clothing corresponding to a brassiere or a brassiere.
[0013]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention will be specifically described with reference to the drawings as necessary while giving examples of embodiments. First, the stretch warp knitted fabric used in the stretch garment according to the present invention will be briefly described.
[0014]
The elastic garment of the present invention has a 1 × 1 knitting structure in which an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn are accompanied, and at least one of the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn is knitted by a closed stitch in each knitting needle. It is formed including a stretchable warp knitted fabric. A moderate elasticity is imparted to the knitting yarn by using an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn. The 1 × 1 knitting structure has the features that the stitches are aligned and beautiful and thin, the yarn legs are short, and at each one of the knitting needles, at least one of the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn is knitted with a closed stitch, Stability and fraying prevention. Further, in the stretch garment of the present invention, other than the stretch warp knitted fabric, any other knitted fabric, woven fabric, non-woven fabric, leather, etc. may be selected and used regardless of the presence or absence of stretch. .
[0015]
Among elastic warp knitted fabrics, elastic warp knitted fabrics (A: shown in FIG. 1) in which both non-elastic yarns and elastic yarns are knitted by closed eyes, and non-elastic yarns are elastic by closed eyes. Stretch warp knitted fabric (B: shown in FIG. 2) in which the yarn is knitted by the open stitches, and the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn alternate with the open stitches and the closed stitches. However, in the same knitting needle An elastic warp knitted fabric (C: shown in FIG. 3) in which the elastic yarn is closed with respect to the opening of the non-elastic yarn, and similarly, the opening is combined with the closed stitch and knitted (C: shown in FIG. 3) is practical. Are better. The knitted fabrics A and B are particularly excellent in appearance, and C has a feature that it is difficult to loop drop.
[0016]
Depending on the type of stretchable clothing, the inelastic yarn used can be either synthetic fibers such as nylon or polyester, semi-synthetic fibers such as rayon, natural fibers such as silk or cotton, and both filament yarn and spun yarn Can be used. Among them, nylon having high water absorption is preferably used as a knitted fabric for innerwear. The elastic yarn is not particularly limited, but generally, a polyurethane elastic yarn or a covered elastic yarn is used.
[0017]
In addition, the stretch warp knitted fabric is preferably subjected to a presetting treatment and / or a heat setting treatment for the purpose of obtaining stability, fraying prevention effect and the like. The processing temperature depends on the shape of the apparatus, the preset processing time, the heat setting processing time, the type of material, the thickness of the knitted fabric, etc., but at a temperature not lower than 180 ° C., preferably not lower than 185 ° C., In order to obtain the above-described effect more reliably, if it is applied in the range of 190 ° C. to 195 ° C., a part of the knitted fabric is softened and lightly fused, the shape of the knitted fabric is stabilized, and fraying becomes difficult. The treatment time is, for example, about 15 to 40 m / min, preferably about 24 to 36 m / min, using a 6-chamber apparatus.
[0018]
In addition, the finishing width is about 160 cm in a general knitted fabric, but the stretch knitted fabric is knitted as densely as possible while maintaining the beauty of the stitches in the stretchable garment. Desirable to improve stability. Although it depends on the fineness of the knitting yarn used, the knitted fabric is knitted to a density exceeding 65 wales per inch, preferably around 70 wales, and the weft elongation ratio of the knitted fabrics should be increased. However, this does not apply when cellulose yarn or cotton yarn is knitted into the inelastic yarn.
[0019]
Furthermore, the amount of yarn used is increased as compared with a normal case, and a stretch warp knitted fabric that is larger and unbalanced than the runner of the elastic yarn is more preferably used than the runner of the elastic yarn. Specifically, the inelastic yarn runner of 80 cm / rack or less is usually 85 to 120 cm / rack, preferably 95 to 115 cm / rack, and the elastic yarn runner of 60 cm / rack or less is usually 70 to 110 cm / rack, preferably Is knitted at 75 to 105 cm / rack.
[0020]
In the stretch garment of the present invention, there is a part where the tightening power is strengthened by partially using elastic yarn having a fineness larger than that of other parts as knitting yarn, or inserting a plurality of elastic yarns having high fineness or a plurality of elastic yarns. The stretch warp knitted fabric knitted integrally can be used effectively. It is useful for the purpose of forming women's underwear and girdles that partially require a tightening power strengthening part, and also helps to reduce the sewing cost. Further, an elastic yarn or an inelastic yarn may be inserted to knit a stretch warp knitted fabric imparted with a required elongation or stretch power, or may be used with improved stitch stability.
[0021]
In the stretchable garment of the present invention, the stretched warp knitted fabric used is further formed using a state in which a part or all of the edge is cut off and separated, that is, the edge is not hemmed without being cleaned. To do. A specific example will be described. The stretch garment of the present invention including these hemless edges utilizes the advantage of the stretch warp knitted fabric that it is particularly difficult to fray at the cutting edges that should be noted. sex, or there is a great advantage that definitive in the economy.
[0022]
The shape of the edge of the garment such as a hem that is hemmingless in the elastic garment of the present invention is not particularly limited except for an extreme shape such as an extremely pointed jagged edge. Thus, no matter where the knitted fabric is cut, fraying does not occur, and it is not necessary to clean up the edges, so curved curves and corrugated lines can be used as desired. In the stretchable garment according to the present invention, the upper and lower ends of the garment are stretched using a stretch knitted fabric, and the lines constituting the edges of the upper and lower ends are formed non-parallel to each other. For example, a wide range of free designs that are not functionally and designally comparable are possible. Furthermore, the best time to form the edges of the upper and lower ends may be formed by using the same elastic warp knitted fabric of the same sheet without any seams, and the seams running in the weft direction may be eliminated. There are few steps of clothing and it becomes a flat thing, and a feeling of wear improves.
[0023]
FIG. 4 shows the shorts of the stretchable garment embodiment of the present invention. In this shorts, the hip part is divided into left and right, and one elastic warp knitted fabric is used as the hip cloths 1 and 2 in the vertical direction, respectively, and the upper end waist part 4 and the upper end waist part 4 are made hemming-less. The suture part in the transverse direction was omitted. In addition, the line 3 at the edge of the hem portion is fashionable by adopting a novel waveform that was impossible in the past without practically using one piece to clean up the edge. In this way, it is formed of a single piece of cloth that connects the waist to the hem, but the waistline and hemline are not trimmed, and the best edge cut from the knitted fabric is left intact. It is used as This shorts has the effect of giving the hips an appropriate tightening force to shape the body, there is no sense of incongruity due to the edge of the hem, and the line of underwear appears on the outer garment worn by the design. There was no. In addition to the waist line and the hem line of the shorts, it is possible to obtain an arbitrary continuously smooth curve at both lower edges.
[0024]
In the stretchable garment of the present invention, when designing the edge of the edge to be hemmingless, the cutting edge of the hemmingless is cut on the knitting start side with respect to the knitting direction of the knitted fabric. It is preferable to be able to cut. This is because the cut edge on the knitting start side is less likely to fray than the cut edge on the knitting end side. If the edge without hemming is cut parallel to the knitting direction of the knitted fabric (the direction of the background of the knitted fabric), i.e., without making an angle with the knitting direction, fraying hardly occurs. In other words, it is preferable that the knitted fabric can be cut in a range not exceeding 45 degrees to the left and right with respect to the knitting start side direction of the knitted fabric. As the cutting line at the end of the knitting approaches 45 degrees, the fraying becomes more conspicuous. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention not to overlap the cutting line that becomes hemmingless. FIG. 5 is a reference diagram showing the relationship between the edge of the knitted fabric that becomes hemming-less and the cutting direction of the stretchable warp knitted fabric in order to help understanding this cutting.
[0025]
The above-mentioned elastic warp knitted fabric can be used for various kinds of clothing taking advantage of its advantages, but it is worn including at least the lower body part with a cut-out date edge of any shape that does not require edge trimming. It is suitable for use as the upper and lower edges of the waist and hem of girdle and shorts and the back cloth of the brassiere. For example, panties such as shorts in which the hem of the hip cloth is formed in a hemless shape with a large curve have a simple design and are excellent in wearing feeling. The preferable shape of the curve a at the hem edge will be described with reference to FIG. 6. The hem upper end b and the hem lower end c of the hip cloth are connected in a state where the front is folded forward on both sides and laid flat. When the straight line d and the most protruding point e on the lower side of the curved hip cloth are connected by the vertical line f, the vertical line f can be designed to have a length of 15 mm or more. The short bottom garment that draws the curve of the shape with the hem at the edge of the hem is in conformity with the three-dimensional shape of the hip and has the effect of improving the fit to the hip without causing a step in the hem.
[0026]
Depending on the clothing, there are parts that require particularly strong stretching power or tension. In such a region where stronger stretch power or tension is required, a plurality of the same stretch warp knitted fabrics can be stacked and bonded together or stitched together. Usually, two sheets of the same knitted fabric are bonded together in a dot shape using an adhesive. For example, it may be used for the brassiere shown in FIG. Since the strength of one sheet is not sufficient, the vertical width may not be maintained at the time of wearing, and the back cloth may become crumpled. However, there is a problem with the use of the above-mentioned laminated stretch warp knitted fabric with strength and tension. Can be solved. By superimposing the knitted fabric in the same direction, the strength and tension can be enhanced while keeping the stretch.
[0027]
In addition, a stretch warp knitted fabric with added value can be used for the stretch garment according to the present invention to increase the added value. For example, a stretched warp knitted fabric is subjected to heat embossing or punching to give a desired pattern. Moreover, a required shaping | molding can be performed by a mold process in order to use for a brassiere cup etc. A beautiful stretch warp knitted with so-called opal processing, in which the third fiber is mixed by means of blending, knit, etc., and after the knitting, the third fiber is partially removed by chemical printing or the like to create a pattern. Stretch clothing can be formed using the ground.
[0028]
【The invention's effect】
The stretchable garment of the present invention has an effect of adjusting the body shape by giving a moderate tightening force to the wearer, there is no sense of incongruity due to the conventional edge cleaning, and it is attractive in terms of design. Without fraying, fraying does not occur, so sewing is streamlined and economical. Moreover, when used for underwear, the line does not extend to the outer garment. And the line of clothing edge parts, such as a skirt, can be made into a continuous smooth arbitrary curve. The stretch garment of the present invention is useful as sports garments such as underwear such as girdle, shorts, body suit, brassiere and shirt, lingerie, leotard, spats and swimwear. Of course, it is also useful as a stretchable clothing for men.
[Brief description of the drawings]
Fig. 1 Stretch warp knitted fabric knitted with closed stitches for both inelastic yarns and elastic yarns Fig. 2 Stretch warp knitted with inelastic yarns closed and elastic yarns knitted with open stitches Structure of the ground [Fig. 3] Structure of elastic warp knitted fabric in which both inelastic and elastic yarns are alternately opened and closed, and one of the same knitting needles is knitted in the closed [Fig. 4] book Example of Invention Stretch Garment [FIG. 5] Reference diagram showing relationship between edge of knitted fabric becoming hemming-less and cutting direction of stretch warp knitted fabric [FIG. 6] Explanatory diagram showing preferable curve shape of hem edge [Fig. 7] Example of stretchable clothing of the present invention [Explanation of symbols]
1: Hip cloth (elastic stretch knitted fabric) 2: Hip cloth (elastic stretch knitted fabric)
3: Bottom hem edge (hemmingless)
4: Waist edge at upper end (hemmingless) 5: Suture line 11: Hip cloth (warm stretch fabric)
21: Back cloth (laminated stretch warp knitted fabric)

Claims

The knitting structure is a 1 × 1 knitting structure in which an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn are accompanied, and at each of the knitting needles, at least one of the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn is knitted by a closed stitch. A stretchable garment characterized in that the stretchable garment is formed in a state in which a part or all of the edge of the stretchable warp knitted fabric is cut, that is, without hemming.

The stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 is pre-set and / or heat-set at a temperature not lower than 180 ° C.
Elastic clothing as described.

The stretch garment according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2 is knitted to a density exceeding 65 wales per inch.

Further, the stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, 2 or 3, the runner of the inelastic yarn is larger than the runner of the elastic yarn, and the runner of the inelastic yarn is 85 to 120 cm.
The stretch garment according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the elastic knitted fabric is knitted with a runner of 70/110 cm / rack.

Furthermore, the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4 uses, as a knitting yarn, an elastic yarn having a fineness greater than that of other portions, or a fineness or a plurality of elasticities. The stretchable garment according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the garment is knitted to include a tightening power reinforcing portion into which a yarn is inserted.

The edge line as it is without hemming is corrugated .
5. The stretchable garment according to any one of 5 .

The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5 constitutes at least edges of the upper and lower ends of the garment, and the edges are formed without hemming. Claim | item 1-6 elastic clothing in any one of.

The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5 is included and formed as the same single piece that is seamless in the vertical direction constituting the edges of the upper end and the lower end. The stretchable garment according to claim 7.

The stretch garment according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the lines constituting the edges of the upper end and the lower end are non-parallel to each other.

The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5 is formed by being cut on a knitting start side with respect to a knitting direction and including the cut edge as a hemless edge. The stretchable garment according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5 is cut within a range not exceeding 45 degrees with respect to the knitting direction, and includes the cut edge as an edge without hemming,
The stretchable garment according to claim 1, wherein the stretchable garment is formed.

A stretchable garment characterized in that the stretchable garment according to any one of claims 1 to 11 is formed as a foundation garment to be worn including at least a lower body part.

The elastic garment according to claim 12, wherein a hem that abuts on the hip is formed in a hemming shape having a large curve.

The shape of the curve (a) is a straight line (d) connecting the upper end (b) and the lower end (c) of the hem part of the hip cloth in a state where the front side is folded on both sides and placed flat. The length of the perpendicular (f) is at least 15 mm when the most protruding point (e) on the lower side of the cloth contacting the curved hip is connected by the perpendicular (f). Elastic clothing as described in.

As the stretchable warp knitted fabric, a laminated stretchable warp knitted fabric in which a plurality of stretchable warp knitted fabrics according to any one of claims 1 to 5 are laminated and bonded together, and the laminated stretchable warp knitted fabric is used. Knitted fabric
The stretchable garment according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the stretch garment is formed in a state in which part or all of the edge is cut, that is, in a hemless state .

The laminated stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 15 is an edge of the laminated stretch warp knitted fabric.
The part or the whole is used as a back cloth of sports clothing corresponding to bras or bras in a state in which all or part thereof is cut, that is, without hemming . Elastic clothing.