JP3598027B2 - Special composite crimped yarn - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a special composite crimped yarn which is excellent in stretchability and can obtain a fabric exhibiting a natural spanized feeling.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, it is well known that a composite crimped yarn obtained by side-by-side or eccentrically compounding two kinds of polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics can be obtained as a woven or knitted fabric or a nonwoven fabric with excellent stretchability. (For example, JP-A-9-228172, JP-A-9-241937, and Japanese Patent No. 2703294).
[0003]
In such composite crimped yarns, since the difference in heat shrinkage of the polymer is constant in the fiber length direction, the crimp size and shape of the spiral crimps expressed by heat shrinkage are all constant. When or to express, yarn express spiral form each other and focused as a whole overlap phase of each filament constituting the, is intended to achieve a stretch has high.
[0004]
In other words, the above-mentioned composite crimped yarn can be used in the fields of sports clothing and medical non-woven fabrics that require only a stretch function, but in the field where sensibility is required, especially in the field of clothing such as outerwear. There has been a limit, and much less attempts have been made to obtain a fabric having natural spanning feeling and stretchability at the same time from such composite crimped yarn alone.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to provide a versatile comfort material that imparts a natural spanning feel while maintaining the excellent stretchability of a conventional composite crimped yarn, and has both a stretching function and a spanning feeling. It is in.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to achieve the above object, and as a result, when a composite crimped yarn is stretched to give thick details, a special composite having a different crimp size and shape between the thick portion and the details is obtained. It has been found that a crimped yarn can be obtained from the composite crimped yarn, and that a woven or knitted product having an unprecedented spanning feeling can be obtained, thereby completing the present invention.
Thus, according to the present invention, a composite crimped yarn in which two types of polymers are compounded in a side-by-side type has thick details alternately in the length direction of the yarn, and the thick portion and the details of the spiral wound have a spiral winding. Unlike condensation-shaped crimps number of thick portion is 85% or less of the reduced number of winding of the details of the two types of polymers, one polymer P _1, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or isophthalic acid, a polyethylene terephthalate at least one kind of polymerization co 8-15 mol% is selected from the group of aromatic dicarboxylic acids having a bisphenol a compound and a metal sulfonate group, other polymer P ₂ is polyethylene terephthalate, and in cross-section of the composite crimped yarn, at least one of the protrusions with respect to the area P ₂ from P ₁ region is formed Cage, special composite crimped yarn is proposed characterized in that it has a hollow portion P ₁ region.
[0007]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
In the present invention, it is particularly important that the special crimped composite yarn of the present invention has thick details alternately in the length direction, and has a different crimp shape in the thick part and the details of the thick details. It is. Here, the difference in the crimped shape means that the size of the crimp and the number of crimps in the thick portion and the detail in the thick and small portions are clearly different. It refers to a coarse crimp having a large diameter and a small number of crimps, and a fine crimp having a small diameter of a spiral crimp and a large number of crimps in detail. By using such a fiber shape, a cloth having not only a stretch performance but also a natural spanized feel can be obtained from the composite crimped yarn.
[0008]
The difference between the crimped shape in the thick part and the crimped shape in the detail is that the number of crimps in the thick part is 85% or less, more preferably 80% or less, particularly preferably 75% or less of the crimp number in the detail. This is preferable in that a clear crimp difference is expressed between the coarsely crimped portion and the finely crimped portion, and a more natural spanized feeling can be expressed.
[0009]
Further, the ratio of the thick part to the detail in the composite crimped yarn is preferably thick part: detail = 30: 70 to 70:30, and the length of the thick part and the detail is preferably in a range of 2 to 150 mm, More preferably, it is in the range of 10 to 50 mm, whereby a further spanned feeling can be obtained.
[0010]
Further, the special composite crimped yarn of the present invention is a composite crimped yarn in which two kinds of polymers are compounded into a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type , and the polymer constituting the fiber is a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath. Any combination may be used as long as it exhibits good stretchability when it is used as a conjugate fiber of a type, and any combination of polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, or a copolymer thereof may be used. good. Further, the two kinds of polymers may be two kinds of low viscosity and high viscosity of the same polymer. For example, as the composite crimped yarn, a low viscosity polymer and a high viscosity polymer of polyethylene terephthalate are used. Composite fibers.
[0011]
Above all, as a combination of the above two kinds of polymers, one of the polymers (P ₁ ) is made of polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or isophthalic acid, a bisphenol A compound and an aromatic dicarboxylic acid having a metal sulfonate group. At least one selected from the group is preferably polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 8 to 15 mol% based on the total acid content, and the other polymer (P ₂ ) is preferably polyethylene terephthalate. At this time, as the aromatic dicarboxylic acid having a metal sulfonate group which can be copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate in P _1, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-potassium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-lithium sulfoisophthalic acid, 4-sodium sulfoisophthalic Examples thereof include an acid and 4-sodium sulfo-2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, and particularly preferably 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. Further, (except when using polyethylene terephthalate freight obtained by copolymerizing only isophthalic acid P ₁₎ polyethylene terephthalate P ₂ While it is preferred to use alone, for the purpose of dyeing improver, isophthalic acid, adipic acid , Sebacic acid, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and other copolymer components may be contained in small amounts (about 5 mol% or less). The intrinsic viscosity of the polyethylene terephthalate of P ₂ is suitably from 0.36 to 0.47. As described above P ₁ and P ₂ of the combination and to particularly high stretch performance when he is obtained, also expressed clearer crimp in any of the thick portion and the details of the composite crimped yarn, at the same time the crimped shape The difference is also clear, and it is easy to obtain a composite crimped yarn in which the number of crimps in the thick portion described above is 85% or less of the number of crimps in the detail, and a spanized feeling can be easily obtained.
[0012]
The composite form of the composite crimped yarn includes a side-by-side type and an eccentric core-sheath type, as described above. However, a side-by-side that can obtain higher stretching performance is preferable, and the above-described effect can be more remarkable. Further, when the composite crimped yarn has a hollow cross section as shown in FIGS. 1- (2) and (3), it is possible to further improve the crimping performance even with the same denier. At this time, when the position of the hollow portion disposed within P ₁ as shown in FIG. 1- (3), when the P ₁ is contracted, high crimp performance is obtained does not inhibit the bending of P _2, at the same time Even in the case of bending or elongating deformation in handling in a post-process such as a knitting or weaving process, separation of the bonding interface between the two polymers can be prevented. At this time, _P 1 is a composite ratio of the composite crimped _{yarn: P 2 = 40: 60~60:} 40 is preferred.
[0013]
The single yarn denier constituting the composite crimped yarn is not particularly limited, but when used for clothing, it is preferably 1.1 to 11.1 dtex (1.0 to 10.0 denier), particularly 1.1 to 5 dtex. The range of 0.5 dtex (1.0 to 5.0 denier) is preferable.
[0014]
The special composite crimped yarn of the present invention is, for example, an undrawn yarn obtained by spinning the above-described side-by-side type conjugate fiber by a conventionally known method or a highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained at a high spinning speed. The undrawn yarn is drawn in the natural draw ratio region to generate thick details, and after forming this into a fabric such as a woven or knitted fabric, a crimp is developed using high-temperature treatment in a dyeing process or a scouring process. Can be obtained by: At this time, the raw yarn to be subjected to the above-mentioned drawing develops a crimped shape having a thick portion and a different detail, and a clear crimp such that the number of crimps in the thick portion is 85% or less of the number of crimps in the detail. A highly oriented undrawn yarn having a natural draw ratio of 1.4 to 2.5 times, from which a difference can be easily obtained, is particularly preferable. Further, in the stretching step or the subsequent step of the stretching step, the yarn that has generated the thick detail is heat-treated with a high-temperature hot air or a non-contact heater or the like, so that a crimp can be developed before forming into a fabric such as a woven or knitted fabric. I don't care.
[0015]
FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing an example of the former preferred embodiment, wherein Y is a yarn of a conjugate fiber composed of two kinds of polymers, 1 is a supply roller, 2 is a preheating roller, 3 is a plate heater, and 4 is a drawer. The take-up roller 5 is a winding device. The highly oriented unstretched yarn Y is supplied by a supply roller 1, preheated by a preheating roller 2, and is heated between a preheating roller 2 and a take-up roller 4 while being heated by a plate heater 3 provided therebetween. And the film is wound up by the winding device 5.
[0016]
Specific conditions include, for example, a case where a natural oriented draw ratio of a side-by-side type conjugate fiber of polyethylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 8 to 15 mol% of isophthalic acid is a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a draw ratio of 1.75 times. The preheating temperature (temperature of the preheating heater 2) is 80 to 100 ° C., the stretching temperature (temperature of the plate heater 3) is 160 to 190 ° C., and the stretching speed (speed of the take-off roller 3) is 500 to 800 m / min. Can be obtained by At this time, as described above, the stretching ratio may be in the range of the natural stretching ratio of the undrawn yarn or the highly oriented undrawn yarn, preferably 20 to 90% of the natural stretching ratio.
[0017]
A drawn yarn having thick details is obtained by adopting the above-described conditions, and for example, a woven or knitted fabric is subjected to scouring and / or dyeing treatment under conventionally known conditions to thereby obtain a different crimped shape in the thick portion and the details. A specially crimped conjugate fiber having a distinct crimp difference such that the number of crimps in the thick portion can be 85% or less of the number of crimps in the detail portion can be easily obtained.
[0018]
In addition, when the crimp is developed before forming the woven or knitted fabric as described above, the temperature of the hot air or the temperature of the non-contact heater is preferably 80 to 130 ° C.
[0019]
Furthermore, a woven fabric having a surface change that has never been obtained can be obtained from a special composite crimped yarn in which a plurality of the special composite crimped yarns are entangled and / or twisted. In this case, the number of special composite crimped yarns to be combined is preferably two to three. In addition, when entangled and / or twisted yarn is added to the special composite crimped yarn, the number of entanglements is 30 to 60 / m, and the number of twists is 300 to 1600 T / m, depending on the thickness of the plied yarn. Is preferred.
[0020]
【Example】
Hereinafter, an embodiment will be described in detail. The measuring method of the characteristic values and the like in the examples is as follows.
(1) Intrinsic viscosity Measured at 20 ° C. in a 1: 1 mixed catalyst of phenol and ethane tetrachloride.
(2) Fineness Measured according to the method of JIS L1090-5-3.
(3) Strength and elongation Measured by the method of JIS L1090-5-5-1.
(4) Heat shrinkage measured by the method of JIS L1090-5-10-A.
(5) A skein with a number of crimps of 3,000 deniers is prepared and subjected to a boiling water treatment in a free state for 10 minutes with an aqueous solution in which a dye (for example, Teratop Blue GLF manufactured by Ciba Geigy Co., Ltd.) is discriminated, and dried. The fiber is sampled, and the length is 2 cm or more. Marks are given in units of 2 cm in each of the thick part which is deeply dyed and the detail which is lightly dyed, and the number of crimps between the marks and the fiber length are each 10 minutes. The measurement is performed at each part, and the average value of the number of crimps per 1 cm of the fiber length is calculated. At this time, the fiber length is measured under a load of 0.8 mN / dtex (0.1 g / de).
(6) The crimp rate The yarn is subjected to a crimp development treatment in boiling water by applying a load of 0.0026 mN / dtex (0.30 mg / de) for 20 minutes, then left to dry for one day, and the yarn length L Measure ₀ . Then yarn length _{L 1} measured 2 minutes after multiplied by the weight load of 1.7mN / dtex (0.20g / de) , calculates the shrinkage wound by the following equation.
Crimp rate = [(L ₁ −L ₀ ) / L ₁ ] × 100 (%)
[0021]
[Example 1]
Side-by-side spinning in which a cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. 1- (3) is obtained by setting the weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid at 10 mol% and polyethylene terephthalate having [η] of 0.43 to 1: 1. It is spun with a spinneret at a spinning speed of 2600 m / min, 111 dtex (100 denier) / 24 filaments, strength 14 mN / dtex (1.6 g / de), elongation 153%, natural stretching ratio 1.7, hollow ratio 1% Was obtained.
[0022]
Then, using the highly oriented undrawn yarn as a raw yarn and using a drawing device shown in FIG. 2 , the first drawing ratio (DR1) between the supply roller 1 and the preheating roller 2 is 1.02 times, and the temperature of the preheating roller 2 is At a temperature of 85 ° C., a second draw ratio (DR2) between the preheating roller 2 and the take-up roller 4 of 1.55 times, and a temperature of the plate heater 3 at 160 ° C. at 600 m / min.
[0023]
The obtained drawn yarn has 72 dtex (65 denier) / 24 filaments, a strength of 20 mN / dtex (2.3 g / de), an elongation of 55%, a crimp rate (TC) of 35%, and a boiling water shrinkage (FS). 13%. The average value of the number of crimps of the thick part and the detail of the drawn yarn is 5 / cm and 7 / cm, respectively, and the ratio of the number of crimps (the average value of the number of crimps of the thick part / the number of crimps of the detail) (Average value of numbers) was 0.71. Furthermore, when the drawn yarn was knitted into a tubular shape and dyed, unevenness in thickness, unevenness in dyeing, a difference in crimping form in the length direction of the yarn occurred randomly, and a naturalized appearance and bulkiness having a bulkiness were generated. Admitted.
[0024]
After twisting 1200 T / m using the yarn and performing twist setting at 80 ° C., weaving a twill fabric having a warp density of 189 yarns / inch and a weft density of 121 yarns / inch, and then heating the yarn at 120 ° C. with warm water at 20 ° C. After scouring and relaxing for a minute, the product was pre-set at 180 ° C, subjected to a 17% alkali weight loss, dyed at 130 ° C for 45 minutes, and finally set at 160 ° C to obtain a product.
[0025]
The obtained product had a natural spanized appearance and feel, had a good stretchability of 19% (average value in the longitudinal and weft directions), and had a good recovery rate of 89%.
[0026]
The product was obtained under the same conditions as above except that the number of twists of the yarn was 700 T / m. Fine grain-like irregularities appeared on the surface of the woven fabric. A surface-changed woven fabric was obtained.
[0027]
[Example 2]
111 dtex (100 denier) / 24 filaments, strength of 13 mN / dtex (1.5 g / de), elongation in the same manner as in Example 1 except that polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid at 10 mol% was changed to polytrimethylene terephthalate. A highly oriented undrawn yarn having a degree of 155%, a natural draw ratio of 1.65%, and a hollow ratio of 1% was obtained.
[0028]
Next, this highly oriented unstretched yarn was used as an original yarn and stretched in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the second draw ratio (DR2) was set to 1.5 times, and 75 dtex (68 denier) / 24 filaments, strength of 17 mN / Dtex (1.9 g / de), a stretched yarn having an elongation of 50%, a crimp rate (TC) of 48%, and a boiling water shrinkage (FS) of 16% were obtained. The average value of the number of crimps in the thick part and the detail of the drawn yarn is 6 / cm and 9 / cm, respectively, and the ratio of the number of crimps (the average value of the number of crimps in the thick part / the number of crimps in the detail) (Average of numbers) was 0.67. Further, when the drawn yarn was knitted into a tubular shape and dyed, unevenness of thickness, unevenness of dyeing, difference in crimping form were randomly generated in the length direction of the yarn as in Example 1, and the natural appearance and bulkiness were reduced. A possessed spanized texture was recognized.
[0029]
The same procedure as in Example 1 was performed except that the yarn was twisted and twist-set under the same conditions as in Example 1 and woven into a twill fabric having a warp density of 180 threads / inch and a weft density of 115 threads / inch. Under the conditions, scouring relaxation, alkali weight reduction, and final heat setting were performed. The obtained product not only had a natural spanized appearance and feeling, but also had a stretchability of 27% and a recovery rate of 94%, which were superior to those of Example 1 in stretchability and recovery rate.
[0030]
[Comparative example]
Using the highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained in Example 1 as a raw yarn, the draw ratio (DR1) between the supply roller 1 and the preheating roller 2 is 1.02 times, the temperature of the preheating roller 2 is 90 ° C., and the preheating roller is taken off. The stretching was performed at a speed of 600 m / min under the conditions of a stretching ratio (DR2) between rollers of 1.85 and a plate heater temperature of 180 ° C.
[0031]
The obtained yarn has a 62 dtex (56 denier) / 24 filament strength of 28 mN / dtex (3.2 g / de), an elongation of 31%, a crimp rate (TC) of 40%, and a boiling water shrinkage rate (FS). 9%. Further, a tubular knitted fabric and a twill fabric were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1. As a result, even in dyeing or scouring relaxation of the tube knit and twill fabric, there is no unevenness in thickness, stained spots, and differences in crimped shape in the length direction of the yarn, and a smooth, artificial and uniform flat yarn style is obtained. It became the surface of the tubular knit and twill fabric, and the stretchability was good, with a stretch ratio of 24% and a recovery ratio of 92%, but a natural spanished texture was not obtained.
[0032]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a special composite crimped yarn having a stretch function, having a bulkiness, and at the same time, obtaining a fabric having a natural spanized feeling because the crimped shape is different in thick details, In particular, it can provide a new material for use in clothing. In addition, the composite crimped yarn has different dyeing properties in thick details, and the dyeing difference can be made more prominent depending on the combination of the two types of polymers constituting the composite crimped yarn. Has an effect of being able to express a more natural appearance.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a sectional view showing an example of a special composite crimped yarn according to the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing an example of a production process of a special composite crimped yarn according to the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
H Hollow portions P ₁ , P ₂ Two kinds of polymer components Y Yarn 1 Supply roller 2 Preheating roller 3 Plate heater 4 Take-up roller 5 Take-up device

Claims (2)

A composite crimped yarn in which two types of polymers are compounded in a side-by-side type has thick details alternately in the length direction of the yarn, and the spiral crimped shape differs between the thick portion of the thick details and the details. parts and the crimp number is more than 85% of the contraction speed winding details of, out of the two polymers, one polymer P ₁ is, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or isophthalic acid, bisphenol a compounds and is polyethylene terephthalate having at least one kind of polymerization co 8-15 mol% is selected from the group of aromatic dicarboxylic acid having a metal sulfonate group, other polymer P ₂ is polyethylene terephthalate, and of the composite crimped yarn in cross-section, at least one convex portion is formed relative to the area P ₂ from P ₁ region, the medium in P ₁ region Special composite crimped yarn, characterized in that it comprises a part. A special composite crimped yarn comprising a plurality of the special composite crimped yarns according to claim 1 entangled and / or twisted.

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